West Old Baltimore Road Survives Unpaved Where It Fords Tenmile Creek
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Travel on an old road can connect us to a different time . Facingpage, a section of West Old Baltimore Road survives unpaved where it fords Tenmile Creek. West Old Baltimore Road StevenLubar NOT LONG AGO county road crews paved a gravel road under the interstate: a meeting not only of two roads but that runs near my house. This is progress, I guess: less dust, of two eras, two ways of looking at the world. Driving on faster travel, less chance of getting stuck when rain turns the interstate, you see an engineered world: road, cars, the road to mud. But something is lost when a road is buildings. On the gravel road, driving at ten or twenty paved, something more precious than the few minutes miles an hour, you see natural things, things invisible at gained by not having to dodge potholes. higher speeds. The road recently paved is West Old Baltimore Road. The road thus becomes more than simply a place It runs, the bits and pieces of it that survive, from where between origin and destination, a means to an end. It wins I live, in Barnesville, Maryland, east toward Baltimore, attention for itself. Unpaved roads force you to slow down about forty miles away. Barnesville is at the western edge and look around. West Old Baltimore Road fords Tenmile of Montgomery County, about thirty miles northwest of Branch. It climbs steep hills, twists through sharp turns. Washington, D.C. The southern edge of the county, where No self-respecting highway engineer or bulldozer operator most of the population lives, touches Washington. That is would follow so closely the contours of the land. Today the the Montgomery County most people know, a suburb crooked would be made straight, the high places made low, becoming a city. The western edge is rural, becoming the stream hidden out of mind in a culvert. Putting on the exurb and suburb. A commuter train takes some of the brakes down a steep hill or around a sharp curve reveals people who live here to work in Washington, and many the unevenness of the landscape. We are accustomed to more drive the interstate to jobs in the city. There's no easy technology smoothing nature's rough edges for us, and way to get to Baltimore, even though it's not much farther. so old roads surprise us with their irregularities. The very The roads don't go that way. But the name of the old road shape of the road recalls a time when engineers and suggests that once upon a time, this corner of the county county road budgets could not so easily subdue nature, was connected, not with Washington, but with Baltimore. but had to compromise with it. You certainly could not commute to Baltimore on West Old roads, following the topography, become part of Old Baltimore Road, though it heads in the right direc- it. Paved roads draw lines through nature. Because they tion. For one thing, you couldn't go fast enough. Gravel shed water, they require curbs, visible boundaries. They are roads make you slow down. You can't speed along at fifty hard edged, definite. They separate us from the landscape miles an hour. The turns are too sharp, the road too we pass through. A gravel road has softer edges. Blending narrow. At one point, West Old Baltimore Road passes gently from road to roadside, it partakes of the country- - side. Daylilies, in profusion along the banks of the road, spread into the road . Growing in the gravel, they reclaim the road for nature. When you drive on an unpaved road, you too become a bit closer to nature. That can be taken literally-the dust-but also in a broader sense. Driving slowly, you can recapture some of what Edgar Anderson, writing in Landscape, remembered of driving a horse and buggy over roads at the turn of the century: "Impact it had and a very sharp and constant one. You couldn't be unconscious of the terrain over which you were traveling. The road recurringly thrust itself upon your senses; there were vibrations, sounds, and smells. The wheels commented almost constantly about the roadway. There was a soft even purr as they pulled slowly through the sand, anguished crunches in sliding over the edges of big stones, a taunt, almost musical, vibration when they whirled along on good gravel." Gravel roads are artifacts of horse-and-buggy travel. Paved roads came with the bicycle and the automobile, high-speed travel. Unpaved roads are old-fashioned, paved roads "modern." A paved road merely connects two places. An unpaved road connects us to a different time. Unpaved roads are roads back into history. They remind us of the people who traveled the roads, and tell us about why they traveled, because old roads were not designed by state highway departments. They were not professionally planned, for the most part, but were built in a mile-by-mile compromise of market forces, travelers' desires, and the shape of the land. When the road was built, it connected places people wanted to travel between. But the reasons for travel must have changed, or an alternative route become possible, for when bicycles and cars demanded smooth pavement, the road was not important enough to be paved. So an unpaved road speaks of social, economic, and demo- graphic change. It is a historical riddle. It is a riddle that contains its own answer, because old roads are textbooks of history and geography. West Old Without modern engineering road building Baltimore Road tells the attentive traveler about a part compromised with nature. of the county's past that is almost lost, not reflected in historic buildings or in histories of the area. That the road was unpaved calls attention to its age, provokes our inter- est. The road itself-its name, its shape, its route-gives clues to the riddle. Old maps show vanished towns. Aerial photographs show a palimpsest road network. Documents, memory, and the landscape itself help answer the ques- tions old roads raise. Names often disclose something of the history of roads. West Old Baltimore Road is a toponym. Parse it backward: it is an odd name for a road in western Mont- gomery ounty, forty mil fr m Baltimorer . Most road · in th e parts Lak their name fr m Lh p p l who Jjv d on th m, or Lhe I ca l mi ll, r th · next town al ng the road, rarely more than four or five miles away: Price's Distillery Road, for example, or Barnesville Road. A road with 20 Baltimore in its name was at one time an important road, a road to Baltimore. Most of them are closer to Washing- going all the way to Baltimore. ton-more importantly, in the early days, to Georgetown- From Baltimore to where? The name makes clear that and farmers look to the nearest marketplace. A straight this is the western end of the road. But there is no town to road is a regional road, designed not to serve local needs anchor this western section, to balance Baltimore on the but rather regional needs. It is a road for people who need east. It's not, say, the Baltimore-Barnesville Road, though to get somewhere quickly and directly, and are willing to Barnesville is the town nearest the end of the road today. pay the money to build it. Barnesville was never more than a small town, a roadside Another road with an old-fashioned name gives the stop, certainly not deserving of a direct connection to clue to the road's western terminus: Mouth of Monocacy Baltimore. Road still survives, paved, but its route a mystery: today it is Indeed, this road doesn't seem to go through any mostly used as a short cut to the Chesapeake and Ohio major towns. Though twisting to follow the contours of the Canal National Park. But if you trace the road on old maps land , on a map it takes a fairly straight shot through towns and examine aerial photographs with a magnifying glass, whose names are known only to the people who live in allowing some leeway where highway engineers have them-Cracklin Town, Unity, and Hilton-before arriving squared things up, you can see how the roads connected. in the mill town of Ellicott City and then the eastern West Old Baltimore Road is a piece of the road that ran terminus in Baltimore. It was not a road for local traffic: between Baltimore and the mouth of the Monocacy, the none of these towns would create enough traffic to deserve place where the Monocacy River flows into the Potomac. Some sections of West Old Baltim ore Roa d have kept closer pace with progress. 21 - -- ----- - ------ --- --·- ·- -- -------- - - MARYLAND Lea ..burff • VIRGINIA LEGEND R.oads Cana/3 II II l I I I I I Based on A New Map of Maryland an d Delaware. Old maps label the place Spinks Ferry and show a ferry Thomas Cowperthwait and Company, 1850. across the Potomac. Why did anyone want to travel from Baltimore to the mouth of the Monocacy? Why, in any case, a direct route? There was some industry along the Monocacy near the Potomac, a glassworks and iron furnace and forge long disappeared, but not enough to demand a road to Balti- more. There wasn't enough agriculture here to pay for a good road to a city forty miles away. This was no local road. Rather, it was a road to bring the products of Baltimore to the West, and the products of the West to Baltimore.