BEER IS COOL Beers To

WHISKEY IS HOT BUT draught lines BEER IS fall 2016 COOL

Beers to FALL FOR

MARK HELLENDRUNG NARRAGANSETT BEER

draught lines fall 2016

ON THE COVER: Mark Hellendrung of Narragansett

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contents

7 REMINISCING ABOUT "THE ONE" BY DANYA HENNINGER

15 THE BOOKSHELF BEER PAIRING: THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE FROM THE PAIRING PROS BY JULIA HERZ & GWEN CONLEY

16 MARK HELLENDRUNG OF NARRAGANSETT BEER GETS DRAUGHTED

24 A MEGA EXPERIENCE UNIBROUE'S JERRY VIETZ RIFFS ON HIS COLLABORATION WITH A ROCK STAR

Editor in Chief Contributing Writer Art Director/Photographer Guest Writer Maryanne Origlio Jessica Lawrence Loren Leggerie Lew Bryson

Senior Editor Contributing Writer Art Director/Photographer Guest Writer Maureen McCoy Liz Starry Michael Kuchar Danya Henninger Mark Your Calendars A Few Words From The Editors...

Newtown Beerfest | Newtown Borough, PA September 17, 2016 – The Stocking Works Dear Beer Aficionados,

Kennett Brewfest | Kennett Square, PA “When the Eagles hike the ball, October 1, 2016 – Historic Kennett Square people start to forget about summer beers,” says a colleague of ours at Draught Lines. While King of Prussia Beerfest Royale | King of Prussia, PA that may certainly be true for October 6-8, 2016 – King of Prussia Mall many sports fans, some of us need a reminder that summer isn’t endless – even if the temperature remains in Conshohocken Beer Festival | Conshohocken, PA the 90s. October 15, 2016 – A.A. Garthwaite Stadium In this edition of DL, we preview the changes that will inevitably come. The days will Pottstown Brew Fest | Pottstown, PA get shorter, a bit colder and you’ll October 22, 2016 – Manatawny Park invite the familiar flavors of fall back as a welcome change. For more information about these events, and others visit our website: Speaking of welcome changes, our dear friend and acclaimed www.origlio.com beer writer, Lew Bryson, is back from his stint as the managing editor of the magazine Whisky Advocate. Yes, he is very knowl- edgeable about beer and whiskey. We don’t know which beverage he prefers – and he’ll probably never tell, but let’s just say that he appreciates the best that both have to offer. Which is why we asked him to opine about craft beers that offer the flavors of spirits vs. brown liquids that might not be as good as the price they command. A few brewers weigh in on the topic as well. For an electronic version of this publication, visit: Then, if you are into music, check out the story about the brew- www.origlio.com ing collaboration between Megadeth’s Dave Mustaine and Mas- ter Brewer Jerry Vietz. The beer they created, A Tout Le Monde, Like us on Facebook is surprisingly light considering this musician’s heavy metal facebook.com/draughtlines inclinations. But that just goes to show you what can happen when two artists share a vision. Follow us on Twitter @draughtlinesmag Finally, we highlight some wonderful fall beers, ask some of our favorite brewers to reminisce about the beers that helped define Follow us on Instagram their careers, and go in-depth with the man who rescued Nar- @draughtlinesmag ragansett Beer, Mark Hellendrung. All to help ease you into an autumnal state of mind. Check us out on YouTube youtube.com/draughtlines Cheers, draught lines is a publication of Origlio Beverage. All rights reserved. The Draught Lines Editorial Staff

3000 Meeting House Road, Philadelphia, PA 19154 AVE REVIEWS Pumpkin Ale Waffles One bite of these beer-infused waffles will take you straight to the pumpkin patch.

Ingredients 2 1/2 cups flour 1 tsp. cinnamon 1/2 cup brown sugar 4 eggs, divided 2 tsp. baking powder 1/2 cup milk 1 tsp. baking soda 2/3 cup pumpkin puree 1/2 tsp. salt 1 stick melted butter 1/2 tsp. ginger 1 cup pumpkin ale 1/2 tsp. nutmeg

Preparation Preheat waffle iron. Get out three bowls. In the largest bowl, mix flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt, ginger, nutmeg and cinnamon. Stir until well combined. Divide the eggs between the last two bowls – egg whites in one, yolks in the other. Add milk and pumpkin puree to the yolks and stir until well combined, then add melted butter and stir again. Using a hand mixer, beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form, about 4 minutes. Add the pumpkin mixture to the dry mixture and stir until just combined, don’t over mix. Add the beer and stir until combined. Gently fold in the egg whites. Spray waffle iron with butter-flavored cooking spray. Cook waffles according to manufactures’ directions. Recipe makes 6 to 8 waffles. -Recipe courtesy of TheBeeroness.com Reminiscing “Theabout One rofessional brewers craft many dozens or even hund- reds of beers. Into each Pone they pour a bit of their heart and soul. For most of them though, there’s a special brew that launched a career. It could have been because the label was beautifully symbolic, or because the recipe was totally unique. Maybe it was because they used a never-before-tried brewing method, or because the beer was praised by a world-re- nowned expert. Or it could have been appreciated as an homage to an old-time classic, or something that was a surprise smash hit . . .

By Danya Henninger

www.origlio.com 7 "Funnel Cake started selling like, well, hotcakes..."

For Jamie Queli of Forgotten Boardwalk, it was those last two put together. As she readied her brewery for its late 2014 launch in the former Cherry Hill home of Flying Fish, the Jersey Shore native got into a tiff with her head brewer, David Bronstein. He badly wanted to make a cream ale as one of his first offerings; Queli was not down with it.

“It’s not a very popular style, and I doubted it would be a high-selling beer,” Queli says. She told Bronstein that if he could figure out a way to ensure its popularity, she’d give in to his cream ale dreams. His answer was to brew it with real vanilla beans and lactose for extra body, but the kicker was the name: Funnel Cake. Sure enough, it was an immediate sensation. Funnel Cake started selling like, well, hotcakes, and hasn’t stopped. Jamie Queli Forty-one percent of the beer Queli sells is Funnel Cake.

“People love it because it’s every bit as good as a Belgian..."

That’s right about in line with Weyerbacher’s best-seller, Merry Monks. Founder Dan Weirback says it makes up 40 percent of the brewery’s sales and he credits Mer- ry Monks with boosting his brewery’s profile – albeit a decade-and-a-half prior. In early 2000, Weirback took a trip to Belgium and fell for the rich, sweet, bottle-con- ditioned ales omnipresent in Belgium. Inspired, he re- turned to his Easton, PA brew house, determined to create one of his own. Merry Monks was introduced that winter as a seasonal. Demand was so great that by 2002 it was a year-rounder.

“People love it because it’s every bit as good as a Bel- gian,” Weirback says, “but not nearly as pricey.” The buzz-inducing 9.3 percent ABV tripel is now the brew- Dan Weirback ery’s best seller.

“It looked goofy teetering over our boil kettle, but it worked.”

“Balanced” isn’t exactly a word that could be applied to Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA – and that’s entirely by design. When Dogfish first started making it back in 1999, “there weren’t any other Imperial IPAs that I knew of,” says president and founder Sam Calagi- one. To create its intense, pungent hoppiness without accompanying bitterness, he rigged a DIY-hopping machine out of a perforated bucket, duct tape and a vibrating hand-held football game.

“It looked goofy teetering over our boil kettle,” Cala- The bohemian vibe of philly's most eclectic street wasgione nearly says, “but lost it worked.” to highwayThe brewery is now known throughout the world for its unique contin- construction. beer-loving entrepreneurs saved theual-hopping day and style, the and vibe it all startedlives with on. 90 Minute Sam Calagione IPA.

8 www.origlio.com “As soft and aromatic as the best from Bohemia.”

What’s considered high in alcohol has evolved quite a bit. When Philadelphia’s Dock Street Brewing introduced Illuminator Dop- plebock in the late ‘90s, its 7.5 percent ABV was “unheard of,” says co-founder Rosemarie Certo. She points to the dark lager as a memorable career point, but there’s another Dock Street beer she credits for inscribing her name into beer history: Bohemian Pil- sner.

“I am most proud to have been involved with creating a pilsner that was one of Michael Jackson’s favorites,” she says, quoting the late beer author and luminary’s description: “As soft and aromatic as the best from Bohemia.”

Bohemian Pilsner was Dock Street’s second commercially available beer, and Certo loves everything about it, from the beautiful woman on the label to the time and care it takes to create. “A good pilsner is clean, complex and balanced, without blemish,” she explains. “You might say that applies to all styles, but for pilsners there is nowhere to hide an imperfection. There is no single, over- powering ingredient... you see and smell and taste everything that Rosemarie Certo is present, good or bad. A pilsner takes time and pampering.”

"Balanced and zippy..."

Quality and consistency are what Cape May Brewing Co. founder Ryan Krill credits with making his five-year-old venture at the southern tip of New Jersey into a beer-lover's travel destination. He thinks the wide selection of stand-up offerings is the main draw, but if he has to pick one that really helped him stand out from the crowd, he goes with the IPA.

“Cape May IPA is what made my career,” Krill says. “Balanced and zippy, it always nudges you for one more.”

Ryan Krill

"...PMD is polarizing, but that’s part of what makes it popular."

For Trevor Hayward and Luke Bowen of Evil Genius, Purple Monkey Dishwasher marked the start of their brewery’s fast rise. The press release touting the new recipe generated the most website traffic the young outfit had ever seen – and that wasbefore anyone had even tasted the beer. A roasty porter infused with real chocolate and peanut butter, PMD (as the partners refer to it) is polarizing, but that’s part of what makes it popular.

“It seems to be a flavor people either decide to love or hate, but either way, they want to try the beer to reinforce their own expecta- tions,” Hayward says, adding, “We almost always bring it to festivals now, regardless of the weather – even when it’s 80 degrees out, we’ll kick the whole keg.”

Trevor Hayward

www.origlio.com 9 REDISCOVEREDBEER Unibroue Éphémère Apple

Matt Summers Bartender at The Garage & Grace Tavern

Brewed in Quebec, Canada, Unibroue Éphémère Apple is a white ale made with Granny Smith apples, coriander, orange peel and other spices with "ale on lees", which means yeast added after the initial fermentation. It has been the favorite beer of long time Philly bartender Matt Summers since he first tried it several years ago.

“Éphémère Apple is my everyday go-to,” says Summers. “I buy it by the case and it's been a permanent resident in my fridge for many years. I even have a reserved area for it. For me, it hits all the right notes. It's so damn refreshing and sessionable, at 5.5% it maintains its essence even after more than a few. Yeast added after fermentation is what makes this beer so tart and complex. When I'm king of the world, every bar will be required to carry this beer.”

Unibroue, creator of La Fin du Monde, makes a variety of beers brewed in the “Belgian Tradition.” La Fin du Monde, a Belgian tripel, combines subtlety and strength with a chorus of fruit, spice and hop notes that make this highly effervescent "liquid gold" so distinctive. To date, La Fin du Monde has earned more medals and awards, including some of the world’s highest honors, than any other Canadian beer.

Summers says he feels Éphémère Apple is often over- looked. “It started as a spring seasonal and is not as high octane as the rest of their stable of beers, so I think Éphémère Apple kinda flies under the radar,” he says. “Now it's made year-round – thank the gods!”

Summers, who currently tends bar at The Garage and Grace Tavern, says choosing Éphémère Apple as a beer that should be rediscoverd was easy. “I know all of my bartender friends, who have been serving it to me for years, will get a kick out of reading about me gushing over this beer, although they've already heard it a million times.” DRINKTHESE NOW Prosit! Ayinger Oktober Fest-Märzen Dinkelacker Oktobefest Märzen Paulaner Oktoberfest Märzen Paulaner Oktoberfest Wiesn Hacker-Pschorr Original Oktoberfest

Oktober-festive Yuengling Oktoberfest Samuel Adams OctoberFest Shiner Oktoberfest Sly Fox Oktoberfest Sierra Nevada Oktoberfest Harpoon Octoberfest Heavy Seas TreasureFest Firestone Walker Oaktoberfest Great Lakes Oktoberfest Abita Octoberfest Straub Oktoberfest

Oh My Gourd! Blue Moon Harvest Pumpkin Ale Samuel Adams 20 Pounds of Pumpkin Jack-O Traveler Dogfish Head Punkin Ale Dock Street The Great Pumpkin Ale UFO Pumpkin Evil Genius Trick or Treat Shipyard Pumpkinhead Spring House Braaaiins! Pumpkin Ale for Zombies

Pumped Up Pumpkins Weyerbacher Imperial Pumpkin Heavy Seas The Great’er Pumpkin Coronado Punk’in Drublic

Fresh Hopped Happiness Sierra Nevada Estate Ale Sierra Nevada Northern Hemisphere Harvest Evil Genius Chickity China the Chinese Chicken Lagunitas Born Yesterday Fresh Hop Pale Ale Allagash Saison Brews to Style: Saison ABV: 6.1% for Available: Year-round Allagash Saison is the brewery’s interpretation of a classic Belgian farmhouse ale. It is a golden hued beer, brewed with a 2-row malt blend, malted rye, oats and dark Bel- gian candi sugar. It is hopped with Tettnang, Bravo and Cascade hops. Fermented with s summer fades to fall, a familiar set of a traditional saison yeast strain, this beer exhibits notes of spice and tropical fruit in A beers take over tap handles and store the aroma. Citrus and a peppery spice dominate the flavor and make way for a shelves far and wide. There is no denying pleasant malt character. This full-bodied that Oktoberfests and pumpkin beers make brew with a remarkably dry finish is a for great drinking this time of year. But a saison for all seasons. much wider variety of styles and flavors are available that mesh perfectly with the autumnal equinox. It’s time to squash everything you think you know about fall drinking and give these brews a try!

Lagunitas Born Great Lakes Woodchuck Fall Yesterday Fresh Nosferatu Harvest Hop Pale Ale Style: Red Ale Style: Cider Style: Pale Ale ABV: 8% ABV: 5% ABV: 7.5% Available: Late Fall/ winter Available: Fall Available: Year-round

Like vampires (especially the notorious The fall harvest brings farmers and A newborn version of their re-born German vampire from the 1920s film communities together to celebrate Pale, Born Yesterday is Lagunitas’ era), this beer has a bit of a rep- another year of fruitful labor. It’s a Pale Ale with added wet, Virgin, utation as the “beer with bite.” A time of shorter days, cooler nights lupulin-drenched, un-kilned hops. highly-hopped Imperial red ale, and great apples. This cider has Kind of like Frankenstein, but better. Nosferatu is rich with flavor, yet re- a complex and elegant char- markably balanced. acter of apple, cinnamon and nutmeg balanced out with a hint of American white oak – a true taste of the season.

12 Samuel Adams Boston Lager Pinkus Organic Ur-Pils Style: Lager Style: Pilsner ABV: 4.9% ABV: 5.2% Available: Year-Round Available: Year-round

Samuel Adams Boston Lager is an Brewed with organic malt and hops, Ur-Pils excellent example of the fundamen- is light to medium in body, dry and well-bal- tals of a great beer, offering a full, anced with a clean hop and malt character. rich flavor that is both balanced and It makes a great refresher while raking leaves complex. The unique flavor is the result or tailgating on those warmer-than-average of a perfect combination of hand-se- fall afternoons. lected ingredients and a traditional four vessel brewing process. It has a smooth, full body with a spectrum of malt flavor ranging from slightly sweet to roasted. This beer is the perfect companion to s’mores on a chilly night.

Green Flash Treasure Chest Monk's Cafe Style: IPA Style: Flemish Sour Ale ABV: 5.7% ABV: 5.5% Available: Late Summer/Fall Available: Year-Round

This fruit-forward IPA features Mosaic hops Named for the famous beer bar in Phil- enhanced by the addition of fresh grape- adelphia, this Flemish Burgundy from the fruit. It is balanced by prickly pear juice Van Steenberge brewery is an old brown and hibiscus flowers that give the beer a in style, aged in oak, and is one of the naturally pink hue. A portion of the pro- oldest beers made by the brewery. This ceeds from all Treasure Chest beer sold Belgian sour ale, a traditional blend of is donated to regional breast cancer young and old beers, is mildly tart and charities, and because October is light in body with a lactic/sour nose Breast Cancer Awareness Month, there and a bit of sweet and sour in the is no better way to show your support finish. Very refreshing! this season.

www.origlio.com 13 HOP ART Charlie Wells Dry Hopped Lager

Wells’ Master Brewer Chris Reid created a golden lager to celebrate this English brewery’s 140th anni- versary. Charlie Wells Dry Hopped Lager is brewed with natural mineral water from a well sunk by Charles Wells himself in the early 1900s.

To celebrate the new beer and honor the brewery's founder, an "illustrated Charlie" was created. Each tattoo documents his adventurous life. Before he became a brewer, Charlie was a seaman who trav- elled the world in the Merchant Navy, hence the eight-pointed star tattoo in the middle of his chest. The Josephine tattoo on his right shoulder honors the love of his life. Wells opened the brewery in 1876 in order to marry Josephine Grimbley, whose father wouldn’t let his daughter marry a mere mar- iner. The couple settled in Charlie’s hometown, and birthplace of the brewery, Bedford England, where they raised their eight children, which explains his Bedford tattoo.

Other tats include a starfish, which was the original logo of the brewery; Australian hops like the ones used to make Dry Hopped Lager; a well, depicting the one Charles sunk, which continues to be the sole water source at the brewery today, and the words, “The Soul of Beer” which according to Charlie Wells, was barley. TB the bookshelf

But don’t let that last sentence intimidate you, the book is really fun. Think of it as a “beer and food tasting workbook” that takes you on BEER PAIRING a journey to understand why certain combinations of beer and food appeal to you. There is even an entire chapter devoted to that journey THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE FROM called ‘Palate Trips’. THE PAIRING PROS This workbook-for-your-senses uses beer and food as educational by Julia Herz & Gwen Conley props. But unlike the text books you used in grammar school, there is no right or wrong answer. “We each have the power to properly pair based on what is pleasing to our individual palates. Screw what any- “Only in the world of beer and food can 1 1=5,” said one else says. If you like it or not, that’s what should carry the day,” + said Herz in a recent interview. In other words, you won't get an F in Julia Herz during her visit to Philadelphia this past her class. May for the Craft Brewers Conference. “When you are dialed in to a great beer and food pairing that Herz and Conley are obviously passionate about beer, but they are also suits your palate, the experience is greater than bona fide experts. Herz is the Craft Beer Program Director of the Brew- the sum of its parts. It’s a home run.” ers Association, an award-winning home brewer and Master Cicerone. Conley, a microbiologist by training, is the Director of Production and Quality Assurance at The Lost Abbey/Port Brewing in San Marcos, It took Herz and co-author Gwen Conley three years to write their California. They teamed up to write their book after years of running book, Beer Pairing: The Essential Guide from the Pairing Pros. One book public beer and food tastings together. Their goal is to elevate the ap- critic actually said that every meal you eat without this book is an op- preciation of beer, and perhaps coax a wine sommelier, or two, into portunity lost. recommending beer with food. Yet the authors have another objective. “There is a cause behind this book beyond just advancing our beer Lots of book titles use the phrase “essential guide”. But whether you culture,” Herz said. “The book is a labor of love. All the profits will are a complete novice or an experienced food professional, this book be donated to The Foundation for Alcohol Research and Best Friends really is an essential guide to maximizing your enjoyment of drinking Animal Society." beer with any food imaginable – from french fries to foie gras. This guide includes everything from planning a beer dinner to explaining Beer Pairing: The Essential Guide from the Pairing Pros is available at why a bit of salt cuts bitterness, but enhances sweetness. Amazon.com. It retails for $15.95.

www.origlio.com 15 gets draughted MARK HELLENDRUNG Narragansett Beer

It hasn’t always been an easy road for New England's oldest beer. Founded in 1890, Narragansett, a brewery with a long and storied past, actually closed its doors in 1983.

But, in 2005, Rhode Island native and former President of Nantucket Nec- tars, Mark Hellendrung, along with several other investors, bought Narra- gansett Beer and reconnected with former Brewmaster Bill Anderson to re-create the original Lager recipe.

From their flagship Lager to a great line of seasonals and rotat- ing beer series, the brewery with a 126-year legacy is back and better than ever with a new brewery in the works that will bring production back to Rhode Island.

16 www.origlio.com It hasn’t always been an easy road for New England's oldest beer. Founded in 1890, Narragansett, a brewery with a long and storied past, actually closed its doors in 1983.

www.origlio.com 17 D.L. Tell us about the new brewery “campus”. What will it entail and D.L. Each summer, coinciding with the Discovery Channel’s hit se- when will the project be finished? ries Shark Week, Narragansett Lager “throwback cans” are released – the same cans that were “crushed by Quint” in the iconic movie, M.H. The project involves the revitalization of a 130,000 square foot Jaws. Are you surprised by the amount of fans the movie still has? manufacturing facility in Pawtucket, RI that once supplied metal works used to build Navy ships, among other things. The campus will be M.H. Every summer I’m blown away by the awareness and interest in completed in phases and will ultimately house our brewery, a tasting Shark Week and Jaws, and by extension, people quoting movie lines and room, gift shop, at least one restaurant, a bike shop and a beer edu- re-enacting the famous scene. Jaws was really the first summer block- cation facility. The grand opening for brewing operations is slated for buster and it tapped into a fear that lives in most of us. November of this year. D.L. Between the Lovecraft series and the tie-in to Jaws, horror is a D.L. Why was it so important for you to revive the brand in 2005? recurrent Narragansett theme. Are you a fan of the genre?

M.H. For generations, literally since 1890, Narragansett was like a fam- M.H. Absolutely! ily getsmember to New draughted Englanders. The beer was part of the community, and prior to getting it back, it was living an existence that it didn’t de- D.L. In the late ‘60s and early ‘70s Narragansett was a part of several serve. Fortunately, we were able to restore the quality of the beer to the big music festivals that included such acts as Led Zepplin and Cros- original and have a lot of fun in the process. by, Stills, Nash & Young. Have you ever thought of doing a music series of beer? D.L. What does Narragansett’s motto, “Made on Honor. Sold on Mer- it.” mean to you? M.H. Not so much a music series, although that’s a good idea. What we’ve done is work with a lot of bands, like Deer Tick, for local events M.H. The motto was coined in 1909 and greeted visitors to the original like the WBRU Summer Concert Series. brewery. “Made on Honor” speaks to a quality product, while “Sold on Merit” identifies the pride we take in selling it. D.L. Your Mash-up Series that includes Del’s Shandy, Autocrat Cof- fee Milk Stout and Allie’s Donuts are made in collaboration with D.L. Who coined the phrase, “Hi-Neighbor! Have a ‘Gansett”? some of Rhode Island’s most famous companies. How did you choose which businesses to collaborate with? M.H. My understanding is that Jack Reynolds coined the phrase in the 1950s, but it was made famous by legendary broadcaster Curt Gowdy, M.H. Our collaborations are not only about local icons, they also need who did the play-by-play for every Boston Red Sox radio broadcast. to make sense for a beer. There are other local staples like hot wieners [Narragansett was the first beer company to officially sponsor a profes- and clam cakes, for example, that we haven’t yet figured out how to sional sports team, first the Braves, then the Red Sox.] translate to beer.

D.L. The famous Theodor Geisel (a.k.a. Dr. Seuss) created the Chief D.L. The newest in the series, Hi-Neighbor! Have a Hefeweizen!, is ‘Gansett image and other advertising in 1934. How would you com- made in collaboration with Bananagrams (a tile word game that orig- pare your brand image now with the way he portrayed it back then? inated in Rhode Island). This is your first collaboration with a company that doesn’t make food or beverages. What’s the story behind M.H. I think what people today appreciate about our brand image and this one? design is that we’ve presented our heritage in a contemporary, interesting format. For example, every element of the design of our 16 oz. La- M.H. Bananagrams was started 10 years ago in Pawtucket, RI, the home ger can is from some moment in our 125-year history, but pieced back of our new brewery. So we have that local connection. And while there together to look timeless, while relevant at the same time. isn’t a direct food or beverage tie, we do see a real association between the social aspects of playing games and drinking beer. D.L. Many of your beers have stories behind them. Do you think the story behind the beer is as important as the way it tastes? D.L. You are not releasing Narragansett Fest this year – why is that?

M.H. I strongly believe that one of the unique strengths of craft brew- M.H. We put Fest on pause until we get the new brewery up and run- ers across the country is the ability to tell stories. And really, what is a ning. Fans really love the beer, but it’s more of a specialty release. We’ll beer without a story behind it? Drinking beer is a social experience, and be able to create small batch beers more easily at the brewery in Paw- sharing the stories behind the beers is a big part of that. tucket.

D.L. Your Lovecraft Series of beers pays homage to the horror story D.L. There are several recipes made using beer on your website. Do author and Rhode Island native, H.P. Lovecraft. What inspired the you ever cook with beer? If so, what’s your specialty? series? M.H. My go-to is Beer Can Chicken made using our tall boy cans. It’s M.H. The series came together from a few different directions. One of a meal that a novice like me can master. My wife, however, has a soup our ‘Gansett Girls, who is a librarian, brought up the idea. Sean Larkin, business and she makes a lot of stews in the winter with our heartier our Brewmaster, is a fan of Lovecraft and finally, H.P. and Narragansett beers. They are delicious. were both celebrating their 125th year “birthdays” in 2015, when the series was created. Ultimately we felt the name and his creativity and D.L. What is your favorite Narragansett beer and food pairing? inspiration were a great canvas for us to explore different styles of beer. M.H. Lager and seafood, hands down. D.L. What comes first in the creation of the beers in the series – the beer style or the particular work of Lovecraft? D.L. Halloween is coming up. If you had to choose a type of candy and a Narragansett beer to pair with it, what would the pair- M.H. There really is no “this first and that next”. Just like there isn’t ing be? a beginning or an end. It’s a collaborative process, not just with Sean Larkin’s creativity or H.P.’s narratives, but also local artists who tell the M.H. Lager and a Tastykake! – I guess that’s not a candy, but it’s story through the artwork on the can. close enough… right?

18 www.origlio.com D.L. Who are the ‘Gansett Girls and what do they do? D.L. If you had to drink one beer that was not one of yours for the rest of your life, what would it be and why? M.H. The ‘Gansett Girls are a nod to our past when Narragansett ran the, “Miss Hi-Neighbor!” contests. Today, they are the team M.H. That’s a tough question, but it would have to be a refreshing that conducts bar promotions and tastings. lager. My buddy is a big surfer and I’ve been caught having a few of his Pacificos… that would have to be my choice. D.L. What is the best part about owning a brewery? What is the most challenging? D.L. Can you tell us something about yourself that someone couldn’t find online? M.H. The best part is honestly the people I get to meet. I’m out on the road as often as I can be, talking to people about beer and life M.H. I get asked a lot of questions and tell a lot of stories about Nar- in general. I love hearing people’s stories. The most challenging ragansett Beer, which is a real passion of mine, but words can’t de- part has to be the competition. Beer drinkers today have so many scribe the importance of my wife and four daughters in my life. choices, and the big guys in the industry have so much more power than we do. But it’s that challenge that gets me up every morning to sell another case of ‘Gansett.

www.origlio.com 19 Fall is a time for tasty treats, touchdowns and tailgates. It’s also a time to enjoy two of the world’s most popular beer styles – Oktoberfests and pumpkin beers. Malty, toasty Oktoberfest beers have just enough hop bitterness to balance the malt sweetness. These oh-so-easy to drink lagers – they are after all pounded in the tents of Oktoberfest – are perfect with tailgate fare. And Dog- fish Head’s Punkin Ale, paired with any portable chocolate dessert, will propel your parking lot party into the end zone.

AYINGER OKTOBER SIERRA NEVADA HACKER-PSCHORR DOGFISH HEAD FEST-MÄRZEN & OKTOBERFEST ORIGINAL OKTOBERFEST PUNKIN ALE & DARK GRILLED & PULLED PORK & GERMAN POTATO CHOCOLATE CAKE BRATWURST SANDWICHES SALAD POPS

True to the classic Bavarian style, Each year, Sierra Nevada part- One of the six traditional Munich The OG of pumpkin beers began this full-bodied, flavorful Märzen ners with a brewery in Germany beers served at Oktoberfest in winning awards in 1994, when lager has been winning gold to create a unique Oktoberfest Germany, Hacker-Pschorr Orig- it earned 1st prize in the Punkin medals at the World Beer beer that honors tradition, while inal is rich and balanced with a Chunkin Recipe Contest. That Championship for over a decade. advancing the style. Working sweet malt aroma and refresh- was six months before Dogfish Last year, Ayinger was the “ Top with Mahrs Bräu of Bamberg, ing bitterness. Full-bodied and Head Brewery even opened! Rated German Oktoberfest this year’s Sierra Oktoberfest flavorful, this authentic Okto- Sam Calagione, the brewery’s Marzen” on Ratebeer.com. The boasts rich malt complexity, but berfest complements the savory founder, describes Punkin Ale as caramelized flavors of the malts with a noticeable spicy hop flavors and vinegar in Bavari- having a “unique, vibrant, fresh, in this Oktoberfest beer are a character from the use of Record, an potato salad. super-duper pumpkin-y char- perfect match for crispy-skinned a nearly forgotten hop varietal. acter without being too much.” brats. It’s perfect with pulled pork, as Decadent chocolate pops or any the meat’s saltiness balances the rich, chocolate dessert will bal- malt sweetness of the beer. ance Punkin Ale’s malty notes and brown sugar spices.

20 www.origlio.com www.origlio.com 21 THE ART &SCIENCE

OFCONSISTENCY Jon Scudamore QA with brewer, Lakes Great SAM ADAMS, SIERRA NEVADA AND GREAT LAKES HARNESS HI-TECH TO ACHIEVE UNFAILINGLY DELICIOUS BEER, BUT NUMBERS NEVER TRUMP THE BREWER’S TASTE BUDS. By Danya Henninger

f you’ve ever had a Samuel Adams Boston Lager, you’ve shared a has helped to make the beer better, in so much as it has helped to beer with Jim Koch. Thirty-two years after Boston Beer’s found- make it more consistent.” Iing, the guy who started it all still tastes every single batch of his flagship label. Running two production facilities more than 2,000 miles apart puts extra pressure on Sierra Nevada, because their beer not only has The reason isn’t so much because he loves beer, although that’s to be fresh, it has to taste the same, no matter where it’s brewed. A certainly the case (sipping through 20 to 25 beer samples before Sierra Pale Ale should taste like a Sierra Pale Ale, whether it’s from lunchtime takes passion). No, Koch does his morning tasting ses- California or North Carolina. And just like Boston Beer, live tasting sions to help ensure each bottle or keg, that his company ships, is is an important step in the process. as perfect as can be. “For every beer that we brew, we have analytical specs from the While those tasting panels have continued across the decades, brewhouse all the way through the finished beer in the bottle,” other quality assurance processes have advanced immensely, but says Scott Jennings, head brewer at Sierra Nevada's East Coast out- they’re still a critical part. post in Mills River, NC. “But the follow up is the sensory match.”

“Since day one, we’ve been obsessed with quality and freshness,” Specs are pulled from dozens of checkpoints – the wort, the yeast says Sam Adams head brewer Jennifer Glanville, “[but] technology chains, the water tank, the fermenters, the bright tanks – and run

22 www.origlio.com through what Jennings calls “a lot of expensive instrumentation.” At the end of the line, a panel of sensory experts tastes the beer and submits a subjective opinion. If a beer doesn’t pass, it doesn't leave the brewery.

“We do have an advantage with Pale Ale,” Jennings notes, “because we bottle condition, so we have it in house for at least 10 days after it goes into the bottle. If there’s a problem, it’s easy to catch.”

Quality control doesn’t stop when the beer leaves the brewery. Boston Beer pioneered putting freshness dates on beer labels, and sales reps spend a good portion of their time checking those dates out in the field. Scott Jennings, Head Brewer at Sierra Nevada in Mills River, NC “Whether it means checking freshness on kegs in a pub basement or checking the shelves at a grocery store, we’re constantly, almost obsessively, checking our beers to ensure they’re fresh,” says Glanville. “If something past expiration is found, we’ll buy it back and replenish it with fresh beer.”

To stay on top of both freshness and quality, Great Lakes Brewing Co. in Cleveland, OH, relies on a tracking system that lab manag- er Robert Hollerorth refers to as the beer’s “social security number.” After the lab team does tests on raw ingredients, the number is assigned to a batch and then used to monitor each step along ART the way. The mid-size brewery (producing 150,000 barrels annu- ally) recently invested in a cell counter to help determine yeast health, and a gas chromatography mass spectrometer to analyze chemical composition of samples, with the goal of catching any SCIENCE issues early in the brewing process. “We don’t have money like the big guys,” says GLCB spokesperson Jennifer Glanville, Head Brewer Adam Ritterspach, “but quality and consistency is really part of our for Sam Adams Jim Koch of Sam Adams Brewing Company brand.”

New equipment helps that objective, but human opinion again Great Lakes QA with brewer, Jon Scudamore QA with brewer, Lakes Great “Whether it means checking fresh- CONSISTENCY plays a part. The brewery keeps sample bottles of each batch it ships, and then does comparative tests using both quantitative and qualitative methods. ness on kegs in a pub basement or checking the shelves at a grocery “With Dortmunder Gold,” Ritterspach explains, “we’ll take a bottle just off the line, a bottle that’s a month old and a bottle that’s past its store, we’re constantly, almost ob- freshness date, collect data on them and correlate it with their ‘social security’ numbers. They’re also run through our daily tasting panel.” sessively, checking our beers to ensure they’re fresh.” The last step to maintaining high quality, once the ingredients, intermediary products and final beer is vetted, is the packaging. Great Lakes recently upgraded to wider bottle labels and higher walls for six-pack holders, with the goal of keeping out oxidizing light. At Boston Beer, the most recent advance was the launch of the “Sam Can.” The result of two years of ergonomic and sensory research, the new can “provides a drinking experience closer to the taste and comfort of drinking beer from a glass.”

But no matter what the lab results say, the final arbiters of whether a beer is great, are the people who drink it.

Sierra Nevada Brewing Company Bottle Check Sierra Nevada Brewing Company QA

Photos courtesy of Sierra Nevada Brewing Co., The Boston Beer Co. and Great Lakes Brewing Co. www.origlio.com 23 A Mega Experience Canada's Award-winning Brewer Jerry Vietz Riffs on His Collaboration with a Rock Star

24 www.origlio.com Mustaine & Dave Jerry Vietz From the time he first picked up a guitar at amount of patience and attention to detail. I strive for perfection every time and, like with music, perfection is something that is age 13, music has been a huge influence in very rarely achieved. However, I try to get as close to it as possible all aspects of Jerry Vietz's life. Vietz, Mas- with each new release. I really believe in quality over quantity. A lot of artists seem to be coming out with a new album every couple ter Brewer for Quebec's Unibroue, the iconic of months, which is similar to the rate that many craft breweries brewery that brought us Beers like blanche are releasing a new beer. But brewing a quality beer, like making a de chambly, trois pistoles and La Fin Du Monde, great album, takes time. It takes 6 to 18 months for me to develop and release a new beer for Unibroue, and while that might seem says that music is his therapy, helping him long, the results speak for themselves when you taste our beer. I to make the transition from his work at the brew with my heart and each beer is an expression of myself. This is, I hope, what comes across when people try our beer. brewery to his "second shift job" as husband and father. Excited for the upcoming release D.L. There have been studies that say the type of music people listen to can affect what they like to eat and drink. What is your of A Tout Le Monde, a beer made in collabo- take on that? ration with Megadeth's Dave Mustaine, Vietz J.V. I love this question. I very much believe that music affects chatted with Draught Lines to discuss music, mood. Sensory memory is incredibly powerful. Some songs I hear family and of course, beer. make me think of certain seasons, and visa-versa. When I smell flowers in the spring, certain songs come to mind. This relates to beer as well, as the taste of some beers remind me of specific times D.L. What was it like to work with musician Dave Mustaine? in my life. This is not surprising, since all of our senses are so close- ly related. I want people to think of our beers when they feel a J.V. Working with Dave on the Megadeth Beer has been great. He certain emotion, just as they think of a particular album or song. and I are very similar in our thinking. Dave cares about quality, as is apparent from his music. He also realizes that brewing is an art D.L. Speaking of particular albums, is there a specific type of form, and we have a mutual respect for each other. music you like to listen to when working on a new beer?

D.L. A Tout Le Monde is a Belgian-style dry-hopped saison with J.V. Well, when I brewed at home, I listened to different styles of an ABV of 4.5%. What inspired you to make a beer completely music, depending on what kind of beer I was working on. Now at different from anything Unibroue has done before? the brewery, it really depends on the project. Of course I listened to Dave Mustaine/Megadeth throughout the making of A Tout Le J.V. Although our beers are well balanced, they are considered Monde. Because of this, Megadeth’s sound became part of the beer. strong. They are very smooth and drink like beers with much lower ABVs. I attend a lot of concerts, and I see people drinking so D.L. If you could pick any musician, living or dead, to collabo- much so quickly, they are falling down by the third song. Imagine rate with on a beer, who would it be? if they were drinking one of Unibroue’s 8-10% beers. I wanted to offer a beer that would give the same drinking experience, but with J.V. This is a difficult question. I am a huge fan of so many musi- a much lower ABV. A Tout Le Monde is light, but has the same cians, but that does not mean a collaboration with them would be complexity and level of quality as one of Unibroue’s traditional successful. To work together and create, there must be a similar beers. A lot of people will discover Unibroue through A Tout Le way of thinking, as well as mutual respect. In the beginning, there Monde and I want to take their taste buds to a new place with this must be a common point – something to build from. Collaborating saison. I hope from there they will try our other beers. I may even is not one person saying, “I want this” or “do this.” A true col- release another, higher ABV version of A Tout Le Monde sometime laboration means working together from start to finish, with full in the future. commitment on both ends. No matter who it is, if you can find a common bond and build something together, the end result will be D.L. Have you worked with bands/musicians in the past? If so, something neither person could do alone. was it successful? D.L. What can we expect to see from you in the future? J.V. I have worked with a lot of artists over the years, and am a big supporter of the Montreal Blues Society. The music scene in Que- J.V. I’m going to keep listening to, and taking energy from, good bec is very close knit, and I have an affinity for musicians here. I music. And I’m going to keep on brewing good beers. often co-host events with musicians, such as Steve Strongman, an award-winning singer/songwriter from Ontario, and The Paul De- slaurier’s Band, who recently reached #1 on the USA Blues Chart. These events are a great opportunity for both the musicians and the brewery. People who have never tried our beers, but are fans of the music, get a chance to taste what Unibroue has to offer, and the bands are able to reach a new group of people who come out to taste the beers.

D.L. What are the similarities between making good music and brewing good beer?

J.V. Brewing, like music, is an art. For me, creating a new beer is very similar to a musician writing an album. It takes an enormous A Tout Le Monde Label Jerry Vietz playing guitar

Jerry Vietz & Dave Mustaine & Dave Jerry Vietz www.origlio.com 25 You could follow the herd, belly up to the bar and knock one back, But sipping on a beer redolent of the Flavors found in the best (most expensive) whiskeys, is another thing entirely. By Lew Bryson

ou must have friends who are drinking whiskey these Second, you waited too long. A lot more people are drinking days, friends who are quick to jump on a trend, and (or at least buying) whiskey now, and it takes years to make Yyou're thinking about joining them... but what about your more. So the good stuff has gotten a bit scarce, which means beer? the prices have skyrocketed. It's hard to find a single malt for under $40 these days, or a bourbon for under $25, and Whiskey is, of course, basically beer – usually without hops, the highly-prized ones go up very steeply from there. $120 that's been distilled and barrel-aged. Beer and whiskey a bottle is not unusual at all. Kind of puts a $12 sixpack into share grain-based flavor similarities, especially in unpeated perspective, doesn't it? malt whiskies aged in bourbon barrels, but years of barrel aging (and four years is considered short) make for major So maybe... just dip your toe in the waters at first with some differences. beers that bring you the flavors of whiskey.

Yes whiskey is booming, from single malt Scotch, to Irish, to If you're looking for that delicious island flavor of Scotch, bourbon and rye, and we're even seeing the once unknown line up some Belhaven Wee Heavy, an old favorite of mine Japanese whiskeys in area bars. There's an explosion of that gives you the full, sweet, juicy flavors of Scottish malt. craft-distilled American whiskeys, and I just wrote a piece The annual release of Samuel Smith Yorkshire Stingo is nigh; about the wave of single malts coming from countries like there's a mighty amount of British malt in there, too. If it's France, Sweden and Taiwan. the smoke of Scotch that intrigues you, grapple with the smoky nature of Stone's Smoked Porter. If you're thinking about getting in on that whiskey action, finding out what all the fuss is about, if you want to be seen Rye whiskey may have launched the rye beer renaissance as one of the cool kids... you better brace yourself. First, if in America; rumors of Anchor's Fritz Maytag's orders of rye you want the real flavor, and you want the reflected prestige malt (for his distilling experiments) led other brewers to that comes from being a whiskey connoisseur, you've got to jump-start rye beers. The spicy flavor proved popular; get a sip it straight, or with only a few drops of water. You can't glassful with Dock Street's Rye IPA. knock it back in a shot, or dress it up in a whiskey sour; no cred for that. Sip it, and get used to that burning sensation. If you want some of the flavor that really makes whiskey Truth be told, you do get used to it, and it's worth it, but it different, without the big price tag and the red-hot smack in takes a while, and until you get there, it's kinda painful. the chops, you'll want some barrel-aged beers. Brewers have

26 www.origlio.com “Don’t get us wrong; we “Weyerbacher Insanity is “When you order a spirit, love our spirits (both ours, our barleywine aged in fresh you’re looking for big flavor. and other great local offer- bourbon barrels. We only use We age Curieux for seven ings). My favorite thing the barrels once so the best weeks in bourbon barrels. about Dock Street Rye IPA of the bourbon flavor really More than giving it some though, is the incredible comes through. I’d rather bourbon flavoring, the aging balance, and the assertive- sip on a brandy snifter, or process transforms Allagash ness of the citrusy hops two, of Insanity than quickly Tripel. It develops notes of and spicy rye. It will out- down a shot of any spirit. coconut, vanilla and oak that shine any old brown spirit It’s a longer, more satisfying all come together to form that really isn't hand experience, for a lot less a complex harmony of fla- crafted or up to the money.” vor. I’d say Curieux, with standards of an excel- its size and flavor, can ab- lent local beer. It's a - Dan Weirback, founder of solutely stand up to any beer I can sip on, but Weyerbacher Brewing Co. spirit.” don't quite have to.” -Rob Tod, founder of Allagash - Rosemarie Certo, Brewing Co. co-founder of Dock Street Brewing Co.

realized that there's a ton of flavor in those used barrels; distillers do it too, Scotch is aged in barrels that have already been used to age bourbon or wine.

Barrels give flavor in three ways. While the wood is watertight, air slowly passes through, allowing the beer to gently oxidize, and only some beers benefit from that process. The wood itself has flavor compounds developed during the curing and charring processes: flavors very similar to vanilla, coconut, fig and maple are the most common. And of course, there's the leftover whiskey that's always in there, because even the distillers can't squeeze it all out!

Try a big juicy one like Weyerbacher's Insanity, a malty barleywine wrapped in whiskey wood, or wake up with their Sunday Morning Stout, brewed with coffee and aged in bourbon barrels. To make Curieux, Allagash puts their sweet golden tripel into bourbon barrels, and the beer really picks up the coconut notes. Port Brewing's Old Viscosity (and Older Viscosity) delivers a powerful punch of malt and boozy barrel character that can still be enjoyed by the mouthful, particularly with an aged gouda or some roast beef.

Many of these beers are limited releases: putting beer in a barrel takes extra time, extra expense, and extra care, not to mention a lot of extra room. Look for the release of Firestone Walker's Parabola, and reward yourself with its insane complexity.

You don't have to give up on whiskey, of course. It's still going to be there waiting after you've had some beers, although the price is still going to be the same, or higher!

Lew Bryson has been writing about beer and spirits since 1995. He was the managing editor of Whisky Advocate magazine from 1996 to 2015, and the author of six books, the most recent of which is "Tasting Whiskey”.

www.origlio.com 27 Behind theSuds With Olivier Dedeycker, Brewer of Saison Dupont, as told to Draught Lines

Fourth generation Brewmaster of Bel- gium’s Brasserie Dupont, Olivier Ded- eycker, made his inaugural trip to the U.S. in June for the launch of “Deux Amis,” that’s French for two friends. This beer was made in collaboration with Olivier’s friend Tomme Arthur, the award-winning brewer of Califor- nia’s Lost Abbey.

Draught Lines was honored to spend some time with him during the Deux Amis release party at Monk’s Cafe in Phil- adelphia.

D.L. What should Americans know about Saison Dupont?

O.D. Well, first I am proud that my family’s farmhouse ale has inspired so many American brewers to explore the saison style. And you know, it’s a taste of Belgium because of the yeast that floats in the air.

D.L. Tell us a little more about Deux Amis.

O.D. I really wanted to work with Tomme because he makes great beer. [He was one of the first American brewers to use wild yeast and microorganisms, as they do in Belgium.] Also, he knows a lot about our Brasserie Dupont beers and the yeast we use. I wanted to create a new version of Saison Dupont, but with an American influence. This is the first time American hops have been used at the brewery, and I was eager to explore how they might behave.

D.L. Which American hops did you decide to use?

O.D. Tomme shipped the hops to us, and on brewing day, we opened them together. The hops he selected were Am- arillo, Simcoe, Mosaic and Hallertauer Magnum. He made suggestions for ratio and quantities. It was a great decision.

D.L. Did the beer turn out the way you imagined?

O.D. It is very interesting. It is the same yeast and the same process as we use to create Saison Dupont. But the new hops made a lot of difference. The finish tastes of floral- or ange and earthy pine. It is interesting because it is a Dupont and not a Dupont, you know?

*Named the “Best Beer in the World” by Men’s Journal, Saison Du- pont costs about $10 a bottle. A world class bottle of wine, such as Chateau Pontet Canet 2010, is around $300. Enjoy a pint-sized bottle of this iconic beer for less money than a single glass of great wine. Beer #Banter With Halloween just around the corner, Draught Lines reached out to the world of Twitter, and asked followers to tweet the spookily satisfying Halloween candy and beer pairing they most love! Here’s what they had to say…

@jerseydan Candy corn and Great Lakes Nos- feratu!

@SlyFoxMark My favorite is Reese's Peanut Butter Cups and Sly Fox Oktoberfest. I pour a pint and garnish. Small nibbles as I go. Yummm.

@CraftyRBeerBabe I LOVE combining Sam Smith Oatmeal Stout & Milky Way chocolate bars! Sometimes I even dunk the candy in the beer!

@GKirlin Around Halloween, I like to dunk some Sour Patch Kids into my Green Flash West Coast IPA for a citrus kick!

@BugTownPatriot Sweet-Tarts and Lagunitas Born Yesterday! or Twix and IPA... Or Snickers and PILS, or PB M&M's and Sucks, or....

@Feliciafied Cinnamon-dusted chocolate coffee beans + a true saison, or a Mounds/Almond Joy + Allagash Curieux (tropical Scotch flavors!)

@chazdrums Butterfingers & bock (I like Shiner) go well together. Found out by accident. Like a certain world recognized brand, accidents just work.

@davidnkarp Kookaburra Australian black lic- orice & Allagash Saison.

@ChefStubbs215 Sierra Nevada Narwhal Impe- rial Stout and Peanut Chews. East Coast meets West Coast.

@fauxciologist Abita Turbodog and a Snickers (preferably deep-fried and salted).

@Sancho_Pistolas Skittlebräu!

Never Miss the Lookout a Single Issue of Draught Lines Winter 2017 Draught Lines Magazine!

HOLIDAY HANGOVER?

Suffer no more! We'll explore a few remedies that work and debunk those that don't. check out 2 SP each BREWING edition at co. GETS Draughted origlio.com Get the low down on this Delaware County, PA brewery, straight from their award-winning brewer Bob Barrar.

FERGUS (FERGIE) CAREY OF FERGIE'S PUB This Philadelphia proprietor and bar- keep extraordinaire dishes on a bad ass brew that most beer drinkers overlook.

Photo by Danya Henninger