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T O D U R R A I S T B O Magazine of Croatian tourism / Issue 26 / April, 2018 / Year X / ISSN 1847-1552; Not for sale. Not for 1847-1552; X / ISSN 2018 / Year 26 / April, / Issue tourism of Croatian Magazine Budapest

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RIJEKA SLAVONSKI BORD Issue 26 / April 2018 / 3-8 Map Year X / Varaždin, About the Green Ring Way to Croatia Destinations: is distributed free of charge, 7-9 Sava - Sutla Valley to travel agents and reporters 10-15 Zaprešić in 47 countries worldwide. 16-19 20-23 Sveta Nedelja Publisher 24-27 Vall 042 d.o.o. Croatia 28-29 Krašić [email protected] 30-31 www.waytocroatia.hr 32-35 Adriatic Sea Maja Šimenc, CEO 36-39 Ivanić-Grad 40-41 SPLIT Editor-in-chief 42-43 Highway Borislav Šimenc 44-45 48-49 Cheese Routes Executive Editor 50-51 Wine Routes Hrvoje Potrebica 52-55 Flavours of Croatian Tradition 56-57 Samobor Kremšnita custard pie Design & Layout Cottage Cheese Marko Bartolić Kotlovina County Brands Editor’s Corner Language Editor 58-61 Main Events As we noted, we start our fifth year of being published with theme-based issues, & Translator 62-63 Zagreb County Tourist Board attempting to present, in detail and scope, individual tourist destinations or areas, Dučakijević d.o.o. i.e. select forms of Croatian tourism offer. This issue was prepared in cooperation with the Zagreb County Tourist Board. It presents destinations around Zagreb - Supported by UHPA Association of the capital and the largest city in Croatia. This is an area which offers numerous Croatian Travel Agencies cultural and natural specialties, as well as interesting and attractive events. Of particular interest is the offer of local foods and wines (vineyards are strewn all Print along the three so-called “wine roads”), which awaits you in a dozen excellent AKD d.o.o. Zagreb Prepared in cooperation with restaurants and rural households. ISSN 1847-1552 Zagreb County Tourist Board. This area is much recommended to add to your itinerary when organizing your Upisnik HGK o izdavanju i Photography / Zagreb County Tourist Board stay in Zagreb. distribuciji tiska: broj 1057 archives, Way to Croatia magazine archives Borislav Šimenc, Chief Editor 3

The A2

ZELINA Green Sava - Sutla Valley wine road Sveti Ivan Zelina Ring Zaprešić Vrbovec River Sava

BOR SAMO Zagreb UG wine road Dugo Selo VAROŠKI L Samobor Ivanić Grad

GORJE SA BORSKO MO Sveta Nedelja AK BER ŽUM PLEŠIVICA wine road Velika Gorica

G Jastrebarsko KI LU TUROPOLJS Krašić

AKA CRNA ML A3 Green Ring Pisarovina of the Zagreb County A1 Should one set out from the North for the Adriatic Sea or from the East in the direction of the Central Europe, the road takes him or her through the Zagreb County, the pulsating centre of Croatia. The arrival to the planned destination or return home do not represent solely places, but also the experiences that are hidden in that journey – in the discovery of the unexpected and unplanned. Leaving the weary journey behind you, you enter the Zagreb County, the green and warm heart of Croatia, the ideal region where you 5 will make a break, take a breath, absorb, of sacral treasures. they draw attention taste and feel this climate. Should you to themselves with the beauty of their make a break for a couple of hours upon many altars, frescos, paintings, statues arrival, you will rejoice in the renewed and stained glass windows. However, encounter on your return, because the the most valuable artefacts within the warmth of the Sun is only equalled by certainly the organs, the mani instrument the warmth of the human heart. of religious life. Sava - Sutla Situated as a green natural ring of the The mountainous relief and the border City of Zagreb, the Zagreb County was position of the county resulted in the founded in 1759 when Empress and Queen construcion of many forified citadels. Valley Maria Theresa gave it its coat of arms With the cessation of conflicts came the and signet-ring. Today, with its 9 towns, desire for greater showcase quality and 25 municipalities and 699 settlements, greater living comfort, and at this time, it represents one of the Croatian numerous castles and manor houses Sava - Sutla Valley is situated in the western part of counties with greatest diversity. Being were erected in the lowland areas. Many Zagreb County, where it borders with and wonderfully connected by traffic, acting of the stories and legends of that time Krapinsko – Zagorska County. It is an area of rich as a crossroad of South-eastern Europe, attract visitors even today. having an abundance of ornithological cultural and historic heritage, covered with forests, parks and nature reserves, known for its In next pages we would like to introduce tame winegrowing green hills and plains, mild slopes cuisine, offering picturesque and magical you to pitoresque destinations of the and cultured spots of land with many country houses. accommodation, teeming with small eco- Green Ring. farms, recreational facilities and wine roads, it is ideal for a family tour and stay. Through centuries it has been providing its passers-by with reinvigorated state of mind and body. The county is referred to as Zagreb’s green ring, as a third of ti is covered by forests, with meadeows and pastures between, and the wealth of green tones on the landscape enriched by the charp lines of cultivated fields and vineyards.The rich cultural heritage of this region proides visitors with countless possibilities. The curches and chapels, with their tall spires, erected on plateaus above the settlements have special symbolic meaning. Through their isolation, they offer an opportunity to become acquainted with the original, local forms of cultural and historical construction. meanwhile, their interiors are places of peace and house a wealth

7 Parish Church of St. Vitus the Martyr () – this Baroque church was consecrated to the patron saint of the parish, St. Vitus the Martyr, in 1679. Legend says that one morning, at the site of the present day church the locals found a statue of St. Vitus that had floated down the Sava and was caught in a willow tree, and to they decided to build a church at that site. St. Vitus is celebrated as a martyr who gave his life for Christ during the period of the Diocletian persecution of Christians in 304/305 AD. He was only about ten years old. The story says that he was cast into a vat of boiling oil. Today St. Vitus is celebrated as the patron saint of mental patients and the blind, people with speech problems, and he is also celebrated by wine-makers, beer-makers and pot makers. His feast day is celebrated on 15 June.

Januševec Palace (Prigorje Brdovečko) – situated six kilometres west of Zaprešić, is the most beautiful Croatian palace done in classicist style. This is a monument of the highest (zero) category and one of the loveliest Classicist palaces in Croatia. It was built by the retired General Vrkljan in 1828, who once served as Finance Minister to Napoleon’s second wife, Marie Louise. He entrusted its construction to Bartol Felbinger, Croatia’s best Classisict architect. In 1845, the castle was sold to E. Corberon, and later changed owners often. In May 1945, it was damaged in an explosion. It was renovated in the 1970s. The three story palace fits beautifully into the landscape and is adapted to the slight plateau. The simple rectangular form is divided proportionally into classicist porticos on the northern and southern facades, while the western side opens into a loggia. The interior is dominated by a central, circular hall, 11 m high, covered with an 8 m dome. The interior walls were painted Parish Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary in with vistas of various cities. Once the palace was surrounded by an English garden. With the arrival of the Franciscans from the Franciscan province of Bosnia to Sveta Today it is used by the State Archive. Gorica (later called Marija Gorica), the church and monastery complex were constructed from 1517–1527, and were originally consecrated to St. Peter the Apostle. In the early Vranyczany-Dobrinović Palace (Laduč) – Baron Vladimir Vranyczany-Dobrinović 17th century, the Franciscans tried to turn the church in St. Gorica into a pilgrimage entrusted construction of this palace to architect K. Waidman in 1882. This is a two church, as the Blessed Virgin Mary was worshipped here due to the miraculous statue story palace with altan on the facade, and the interior stands out for its formal, of Our Lady that the bishop fleeing from Bosnia donated to the monastery church. two-wing staircase with balustrade that leads to the first floor. The fantastic ceilings For that purpose, the Franciscans renovated and expanded the monastery in 1616, paintings are the work of Ivan Klausen. The grounds in front of the palace are a and with the dedication of Zagreb Bishop Martin Borković, the heavenly patron of French garden. Today, the palace is a children’s home. the church was changed. At the same time, the name of the settlement was also changed to Marija Gorica, after the new name of the church. Construction of the new Parish Church of St. Anne (Rozga) in Dubravica – the Rozga (Rozgva) parish is monastery began in 1733, and the new Baroque church was constructed from 1754– seen on old maps from the 13th century. On 26 July of each year, and the first Sunday 1758. The church interior was already complete and furnished by 1761. According to following, a traditional church feast is held in the parish, including festivities for all. the annal Mjestopis by Bishop Maksimilijan Vrhovec, the new Marija Gorica parish was The parish church was erected in 1842. The cemetery chapel in Rozga dates back to established in 1789, and the Franciscans remained here another 40 years, when the 1609 when it was called Chapel of Our Lady of Lušak. The church courtyard contains old monastery was destroyed in a fire. The new parish court was constructed in 1837. the old parish court, an important cultural monument of the highest (zero) category, which is a wooden structure more than 300 years old, and is unique to this part of Sv. Križ (Brdovečki) – archaeological site in the village of Sv. Križ Brdovečki. the county. Archaeological research has confirmed that an urban settlement existed at the site of the present day Church of the Holy Cross and cemetery in the Iron Age, in about 700 B.C. Numerous ceramic fragments of various household dishes and traces of inhabitation have been found. A grave has also been uncovered in which the deceased was buried together with his horse and all the equipment it wore when alive. Such a grave is called a prince’s grave. 9 Zaprešić

Zaprešić, a town lying 17 km west of Zagreb. Zaprešić and the surrounding areas offer several interesting tourist destinations: 5 castles (Lužnica, Gornja Bistra, ), churches, flora and fauna reserves, excellent cuisine and traditional events (Jelačić Days in May and October). The Jelačić Novi Dvori is one of the best preserved feudal estates in Croatia. Sporting options include football, handball, basketball, bowling, equestrian sports and show jumping, paragliding, motor handgliding, motocross, cycling, tennis and golf (three PAR 3).

11 The most attractive tourist offer of Zaprešić are its many mansions and palaces. Here we must mention the New Jelačić Palace, a unique monument of cultural and historic heritage only 1,5 km from the town centre (some 20 km from Zagreb). The Palace is a unique example of well preserved complete manorial estate. The antiquities and husbandry of New Palace as a whole include the Palace, chapel of St. Joseph, the family Jelačić vault, gardens, orchard, residential and service rooms, vegetable garden, arable land and forest- park.

Preserved and partly restored outbuildings, offices and service rooms are another asset of the New Palace. The circular threshing machine is the only and the oldest object of that type in Croatia, it comes from the 17th century and is the monument of zero cathegory. Former crops storage facility, a three-storey granary was reconstructed in 1987 and turned into a Gallery, today Museum of Matija Skurjeni. It displays permanent exhibition of a prominent naive artist Skurjeni, and a historic photo-exhibition “The New Jelačić Palace”.

Apart from the Jelačić Palace this region is the home of many other beautiful palaces and mansions. If you take a left turn from Zaprešić toward Brdovec you’ll see Lužnica Mansion, a one-storey baroque building. It was built in the early 18th century. It used to be owned by the Rauch Jakovlje palace was built in the 18th century under the northern slopes family. The mansion has three wings, and is U shaped. Angle towers are of Medvednica, while the Jakovlje estate is mentioned much earlier in of cylindrical shape. Above the main entrance overlooking the park there 1546 when it was bought by a Jakov Sekelj of Ormož. The estate was is a large balcony. Façade features different busts in relief. The mansion subsequently held by the Oršić, Gottal, Rauch, Josipović and Kronfeld chapel has a rococo style altar. It is a zero cathegory monument. families. It was gradually reconstructed, and got its final look in the third phase after the 1880 earthquake. Around the Palace there are gardens, The baroque Oršić family mansion in Gornja Bistra was built in the service and farm buildings, vegetable garden and horsechestnut access second half of the 18th century. It’s a one-storey, U shaped building lane. Gardens were probably created in the second half of the 19th with an interesting portal and a small aside chapel. The central oval hall century, after the last reconstructionof the mansion. The palace is today features Illusionist paintings of mythological content from 1778. Around a residence distinguished for its remarkable park of sculpture. It is the palace are beautiful lanes. Zero cathegory monument. retained as visual artists working area. A third cathegory monument.

13 People of Zaprešić and its environs keep their folk traditions and ethnologic treasures alive. The town has many Cultural Clubs, for example “, “Hruševec of Kupljenovo” and “Ban Josip Jelačić”, active also are the majorettes named “The Jelačić majorettes”, and a society called “The Noble Youth of Zaprešić” that organises formal ball-room dances where ladies come wearing beautiful dresses and gentlemen officers’ uniforms from the time of Josip Jelačić. Zaprešić is the venue of many traditional cultural, entertainment and sporting events. In May and October, when the anniversaries of ban Josip Jelačić’s birth and death are marked, the Jelačić Days are organised with a number of events. Then, of course, in February traditional Carnival festivities are held. In July you must visit the Harvest Festivities that complement the International Festival of Folk Songs and Dances that is held in Zagreb. On Easter Monday a traditional motorcycle cross-country race is held on Pepač breg as part of national championships, then “Trajbar team” horse tournaments held in May and October, table tennis tournament “Joža Vogrinec Memorial” and a bicycle race “V. Horvatić Memorial” in September.

Zaprešić and its environs are famous for sports, from horse-back riding to flying. There is a football stadium, football fields, sports halls, bowling alleys, outdoor and indoor tennis courts. Those who like aerial sports will also be able to enjoy paragliding and motor powered gliding. In the Equestrian Club ‘Trajbar team’ you can go horseback riding, attend riding school or a special school of sports riding under the guidance of licensed riding instructors. Club has a riding sports hall, nice coffee-shop and a restaurant. Already mentioned moto- cross run on Pepačevom bregu (Pepae hill), Prigorje Brdovečko is extremely attractive for bystanders.

South of Zaprešić, in the direction of the River Sava you’ll find lake Zajarki, which was originally a gravel pit. Further down toward the Sava there is a bird reserve Zaprešić – Sava. It is covered with woods, thick low vegetation and is criss-crossed with fluvial marches. This is a very important place for birds who build their nests there. The neighbouring Krapina and Sava rivers with their backwaters, and lake Zajarki are anglers’ paradise.

15 Samobor

In the western part of the Zagreb County, along the border with the neighbouring Republic of Slovenia, lies the hilly landscape of Samobor and within it the small and lovely, medieval town of Samobor. Its well preserved nucleus of mostly Baroque architecture, long history, rich cultural heritage and wonderful surroundings have all come together to secure its signifcant place in the overall touristic offer of Croatia.

17 The entire town seems like a lively museum in which history comfortably walks hand in hand with today. All the buildings on the central square, which is also the centre and the starting point of the life of Samobor, are protected monuments of culture. For a very long time this charming place has been the most popular excursion venue for the citizens of Zagreb who come to have their fill of the charm the town, and to replenish their energy in numerous restaurants and excursion sites around it. One of the reasons for a visit is the trademark of Samobor – the famous custard slice Samoborska kremšnita which has been around for over 100 years. And the time one At the foot of the Old Town there is the old section of Samobor should not miss is the Samobor Carnival time when the life of called Taborec, with wooden houses and the Gothic Church of the town is taken over by masks – and it has been so for over Saint Michael, reconstructed in baroque style, and the Vugrinščak 170 years. sports and recreational centre. The central town square, with many bistros and terraces with a view of the facades of the Samobor was granted the status of a free royal maket-town by neighbouring late nineteenth century buildings, is a favourite a charter from King Bela IV in 1242. The building of the Old Town resort of Zagreb residents. Not far from the square there is the began in the late thirteenth century on Tepec hill. Anindol, the Livadić castle from 1764, which is today the Museum of Samobor. most scenic path in Samobor, is on the same hill. The mayor of Samobor, Smidhen, had it developed as early as 1883.

19 Sveta Nedelja is a favourite destination for many visitors, who enjoy a variety of sports and recreation activities: from walking or cycling through the picturesque hills, Sveta Nedelja fishing on the lakes at Rakitje, Orešje, Kerestinec and Strmec, tennis courts, paintball an adrenaline park, to visiting a large number of excellent hospitality facilities offering a wide selection of culinary specialities.

Sveta Nedelja, 13 km west of Zagreb, is small town situated in a region encompassing the plains and hills between the Sava River, Okić and the Samobor hills. The parish was first mentioned in 1501. Whit its glorious medows sacral monuments and variety of recreation activities Sveta Nedelja is a favourite destination for many visitors.

21 The autocamp offers 50 fully equipped plots, just metres from the The top floor of the building, providing the best lake views, is where lakeshore. Plots range in size from 100-125 m² each with its own the wellness centre is, with water bed, Finnish sauna, jacuzzi and hookup for electricity, water and water drainage. grassy sundeck. If you want to enjoy the benefits of rest and relaxation In addition to camping plots, guests can find accommodation in the all on your own, it is possible to rent out the entire wellness centre for four bungalows, that sleep 2 to 4 people. Of these three are equipped your own private use. with a kitchen, and one with a jacuzzi in the middle of the room, for In the camp, visit the salt room, which is open to all who want to a romantic ambience. improve their health and the health of their family, to take advantage All bungalows are modernly equipped, with an emphasis on wood and of the anti-stress effect, and to enrich their quality of life and boost other natural materials. The trails, paths and plot markers are all the immune system to better handle all the challenges our rapid pace made out of acacia wood. of life brings. The largest structure in the camp houses the wine cellar with lounge The camp is also “pet-friendly”, and pets are welcome and can take bar, the Jezero pizzeria and mini wellness, while each floor has a view advantage of the special washroom for pets. over the lake. In the modern and originally designed wine cellar, with For guests who prefer an active vacation, the camp offers the its aquarium bar, taste locally made wines. opportunity for relaxing walks and bicycle rides around the Sveta Nedelja lakes and the Sava River.

23 Jastrebarsko

Jastrebarsko, popularly called Jaska, is a town with a population of 5400. It lies on the Zagreb– motorway, on the regional road and the railway line, and is 36 km from Zagreb. Jastrebarsko and the surrounding areas have a long tradition in tourism, as this is a favourite outing destination for Zagreb residents due to its beautiful landscapes, wine-growing hills, nature reserves and countless cultural and historical monuments (churches, monasteries and castles). The oldest building in Jastrebarsko is the Erdödy Castle. It is located in a beautiful old park that is actually a monument of horticulture and is open for visitors while interior is closed and about to be completely renovated soon. The surrounding areas include several attractive excursion destinations, including the Crna Mlaka ornithological reserve, the Plešivica wine road and the highest peak of the Samobor hills, Mt. Japetić (879 m).

25 Only 9 km from Jaska this area is made up of 17 picturesque villages. Crna Mlaka Bird Reserve is situated only 14 km away from the town. Sveta Jana is the gentlest part of Prigorje and has always attracted With its unique hydrographic and vegetation features, many bird species holidaymakers. One way of getting there is via the village of Petrovina, and oak forests, it is the place you simply must visit. During most of the famous for its St. Peter’s church. In the vicinity is also a small village of year protected and rare birds inhabit the reserve: sea eagle, cormorant, Rastoci famous for pottery. The Jastrebarsko area is rich in water, and black stork, grebe, heron, duck and other. Ornithologists have identified there used to be a large number of watermills operating in the region. around 230 bird species, and in 1980 Crna Mlaka becomes a special Millers were well respected in the community and an important part of protection reserve. The reserve covers the area of 6,87 square kilometres. village life. Nowadays, however, there are only few mills still standing. A fishpond network used to this day was build in the late 1917s and is Fortunately, Sveta Jana association recognized their importance, and situated in the lowest part of the Kupa basin. renewed one of the old watermills. It is the Miller’s House, a cultural master piece. Built beside the mill on the Draga brook, this priceless With its 879 m Japetić is the highest peak of Samoborska gora mountain treasure reminds us of times past, and the life that used to be led in the range. Due to its natural beauties it has been turned into a reserve of area. Miller’s House is a replica of a typical house that the miller’s family forest vegetation. Especially interesting is an old beech forest that used to used to occupy. Although smaller than usual, the house contains all the cover this area but today takes up only some 29 hectares. When you reach traditional elements of a historic house. The kitchen and bedroom are the top you can enjoy the view from a 12 m viewing platform. You can see filled with items from the last century, typical for the region. There is a all of the Samobor hills region from there. Another breathtaking view of number of details and items in the kitchen, some of which are more than Prigorje, Žumberak, Pokuplje, Klek and weather permitting even the Alps, a hundred years old. A bread oven, also used to heat both the kitchen and is that from the hunting lodge on Žitnica. This lodge is open all year round the bedroom, dominates the room. Small details are the ones that give and is also famous for excellent food. extra warmth to the room. They are filled with tradition and give a realistic representation of local culture. The numerous historic items will leave no person untouched, neither chance visitors nor true lovers of things past.

27 Krašić

Krašić is a place of prayer, peace and pilgrimage. It is the birthplace of the Blessed Alojzije Stepinac, and also the birthplace of Cardinal Franjo Kuharić, Bishop Juraj Jezerinac, and Bishop Josip Mrzljak. In the Valley of Cardinals you can admire sacral (church of the Holy Trinity) and traditional architecture of wooden country houses. In addition to religious tourism, there are also numerous sporting activities available here, including hiking and golf.

29 Four kilometres south of Pisarovina is Jamnička Kiselica. In the immediate vicinity of Jamnica plant, traditional Kupa Evenings are held. The Kupa Evenings are public festivities with sporting events held twice a year in July and August.

A large village called Donja Kupčina lies about thirty kilometres to the south of Zagreb, amidst the ploughland, meadows and woods of the Kupa Pisarovina Valley and near the confluence of the Kupčina and the Kupa. The people in this village are very keen to preserve their culture and heritage: they have created an open-air museum, or ethnological park, to exhibit the ethnological traditions of Donja Kupčina. This park displays houses, Pisarovina – is 25 km from Zagreb buildings from village farmyards, wells, workshops and other examples and is situated on a regional road of masonry and popular crafts. All these buildings are furnished with traditional furniture, textiles and other exhibits to show the past way of between the Vukomerička gorica, life in these villages. the Kupa River and Draganićka forest. The picturesque landscape include both plains and hills, with scattered old oak forests, woods and winding rivers running down towards the clear Kupa River. Just south of Pisarovina is the mineral water spring Jamnička Kiselica. The popular Jamnica water was discovered in 1770, and the first chemical analysis of the mineral water was carried out in 1772 on orders by the Empress Maria Therese. In 1828, this was the first water in this part of Europe to be bottled for sale. Today, Jamnica is the most popular brand of mineral water in Croatia.

31 Velika Gorica

Velika Gorica lies on the hilly part of Vukomerička gorica and the lowland of Turopolje. The entire area is rich in cultural and historical sights, dating back to prehistoric times, including sacral and ethnological monuments (wooden chapels and manors, archaeological site Andautonia (Ščitarjevo), the Lukavec Old Town and the valuable art collection on display in the Turopolje Museum). The entire area is also well known for its excellent cuisine offered in many restaurants and excursion sites around the town.

33 Roman heritage Šćitarjevo, a settlement 8 km northwest of Velika Gorica, is the home of many valuable and important archaeological sites. This is where Andautonia, the seat of an Illyrian tribe and a Roman municipality, used to be. The town was built in the shape of an irregular hexagon. Archaeologists found the remains of Roman buildings, thermal complex, roads, wall paintings, plastering featuring herbal decorations. They also found tools, tableware, glassware, jewellery, money from the period between the 1st and 4th centuries. Altar dedicated to the god of the River Sava was also found, along with reliefs. A relief featuring Nemesis might lead to a conclusion that Gladiator games were once held most probably in an amphitheatre made of wood. Stone monuments were found scattered around farmyards. In Velika Gorica region you’ll be able to see valuable monuments from later periods. In the town centre for example you can visit the so-called Turopolje grad. It is in fact a one-storey building square-shaped with a porch facing the park. It was Turopolje is well renowned for its wooden architecture. Same elements and built somewhere around the year 1765. This used to be the materials were used for public and sacral structures, along with rustic processing. seat of ‘Aristocratic Turopolje Municipality’. The only difference was that church builders had a better chance of proving their craft, which resulted in a large number of true gems of sacral wooden architecture. The area also boasts unique examples of wooden manors. These wooden churches and chapels are the biggest achievement of folk Baroque architecture in north Croatia. A wooden chapel of St. Barbara in Velika Mlaka is the most attractive and certainly the most representative example of wooden church architecture in Croatia. The chapel was built in 1642 and reconstructed several times. The attraction of Donja Lomnica is a Modić-Bedeković wooden one-storey kurija from 1806.The kurija is a beautiful example of the original secular country architecture that used to be built by the members of lower aristocracy. Nine kilometres west of Velika Gorica is a Baroque castle Lukavec. This square-shaped castle features the inner ward with arcades and four prismal towers on each corner.

A number of annual events is organised in Velika Gorica: Vincekovo in vineyards of Vukomer, large and small carnival, the international Turopolje race, country dance fair, Turopoljsko Jurjevo in April, Goričke večeri (evenings in Gorik), the Spring Fair, the International Majorettes Show, Žirovina in Turopolje grove in August, Gastro Turopolje in October, and Days of Lucija (protector of Turopolje), which is also the Day of Velika Gorica in December.

35 Ivanić-Grad

Ivanić-Grad is in the middle of Ivanić Island, a true unspoiled oasis of nature. It is an area strewn with water-filled plains and wine-bearing hills of Moslavačka gora (Moslavina mountain). The name Otok (Island) was given to the region way back in the past because the area is surrounded by three small rivers the Glogovnica, the Lonja and the Česma, and the Sava is nearby, too. Ivanić Island is a budding tourist destination for trekkers, bikers, hunters, fishermen and mushroom seekers, offering good food and good wine in natural surroundings.

37 At the northwestern border of Ivanić Island is the Lonjsko polje, a world known nature park. Lonjsko polje is the home of many, unfortunately rare, wetland birds among which a special place is reserved for the protected species of black and white stork, spoonbill heron, white and grey heron, and the protected great bittern and many other inhabitants of ponds, fields and forests.

This region is also known for the horse, an autochtonous Croatian breed, preserved and improved in Kloštar. Among its natural resources, natural salty thermal waters and healing naphthene oil called naphthalene, are the basis for the development of health tourism at a health- care institution called Naftalan. Apart from natural beauties, Otok Ivanić also discloses rich historic and cultural heritage. Almost each preserved chapel is the example of beautiful rural Baroque architecture. Very imaginative ornaments on the old wooden houses also catch the eye, while the attractions of the Posavina region architecture can fully be appreciated when you visit these picturesque villages along the Sava.

39 Dugo Selo

Dugo Selo – a town situated 23 km east of Zagreb, which for centuries developed at the crossroads.The history and culture of this region is intertwined with the name of St. Martin and with the Order of the Templar Knights. The wine-growing tradition has resulted in tourism events relating to wine, such as St. Vincent’s Day on Martin Breg, which marks the start of the year’s work in the vineyards, and St. Martin’s Day, the celebration of the “christening” of the wine. Dugo Selo Autumns – a cultural and entertainment event that lasts from the start of September to St. Martin’s Day on 11 November.

41 Vrbovec

The first written record of the town Vrbovec dates back to 1244 (document of King Bela IV). The Vrbovec fortress was raised in 1528 as a defensive structure to fend off the Turks. Later it was owned by the Zrinski, Erdödy, Patačić and other families. Petar Zrinski was born here in 1621. Near Vrbovec (Negovec), Marija Jurić Zagorka, the popular novelist and first female journalist in southern Europe, was born. The area abounds in valuable cultural heritage and numerous rural excursion areas, which are perfect places for relaxation and culinary delights including the event “What Our Elders Ate”, held in August) and sports: tennis, trap shooting and fishing.

43 Sv. Ivan Zelina

Sveti Ivan Zelina, a town situated in the Lonja River Valley, 37 km northeast of Zagreb. This is the old cultural and economic seat of the area called Hrvatsko prigorje. Today, thae town is known for its wines and its attractive wine road that passes through the wine-growing villages from , towards Nespeš and , and on to Sveti Ivan Zelina. The town has been a settlement since the Bronze Age, which is best seen in the wealth of cultural monuments (chapels, churches, medieval burg of Zelingrad).

45 CHEESE ROUTE A4 Along the Wine and WINE ROUTES 1 Cheese RoutesA2 2 KA ZELINS a Savsko - sutlanska dolina vinska cest DUBRAVICA MARIJA GORICA SVETI IVAN ZELINA BRDOVEC VRBOVEC ZAPREŠIĆ A3 4 Sava ZAGREB 3 A SAMOBOR BORSK DUGO SAMO a vinska cest SELO GORJE SAMOBORSKO SVETA NEDELJA AK BER ŽUM 9 IVANIĆ-GRAD IČKA PLEŠIV a VELIKA GORICA vinska cest

7 LO NJS PA KO 8 I LUG R POLJ POLJSK K PR E TURO IRODE KRAŠIĆ JASTREBARSKO 10 KA CRNA MLA 12 11 VU A3 KOM ERIČK E GOR A1 PISAROVINA ICE

5 1. LONČAR Dairy, 7. ŠESTAK Dairy, Plešivica 2. KUŠIĆ Dairy, Psarjevo Donje 8. ŽUMBERAK Farm, Jastrebarsko Rijeka 3. JADANEC ČUTURA Dairy, Kusanovec Kupa 9. KONJUŠIĆ Dairy, Gornji 4. FÜRNKRANZ Dairy, Brdovec 6 10.PENEZIĆ Dairy, Kupinečki Kraljevec 5. GRČEVIĆ Dairy, Pisarovina 11.MALKOČ Dairy, Kupinečki Kraljevec 6. POKUPČAN Dairy, Pokupsko 12.LUKŠIĆ Dairy, Kupinečki Kraljevec 47 Cheese

The tame landscape of the Zagreb region draw visitors with their route natural characteristics: meadows, mild hillside pastures, vineyards, orchards, rivers, ponds… This has always been a livestock farming region, and so it is no surprise that cottage cheese and cream are basic ingredients of the region and a local specialty with a long tradition. And on the basis of this tradition of cheese production, this region offers a historic experience in modern times – especially of cheeses produced traditionally in twelve mini-dairies connected along the Zagreb region’s Cheese Route. In their tasting rooms, you can sample cottage cheese, boiled cheese, smoked cheese, soft, semi- soft, and hard cheeses made with cow and goat milk from animals raised on the local pastures. These dairies also share three brands: Dragec dried cheese, Kriško hard cheese, and ZG Sirek cottage cheese.

49 Wine routes The soil, sun, and climate, but most of all, the hardworking hands of winemakers have made this region one of the most esteemed winemaking regions in Croatia. Every year, experts, connoisseurs, and lovers of great wine visit the vineyards and cellars on the Plešivica, Zelina, and Samobor wine routes to enjoy the noble local wines.

In addition to Zagreb’s brands Purtugizec Plešivica and Kraljevina Zelina, the routes’ cellars offer wines made from the local Plavec Žuti, Slatki Zelenac, and Šipelj grapes, as well as numerous other wines (Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Pino Noir, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Blaufränkisch, Škrlet, Yellow Muscat, Furmint…). On the Samobor Wine Route, make sure to taste Bermet, the region’s best-known fortified wine.

Kraljevina Zelina Kraljevina is a regional grape variety, and the Kraljevina from around Zelina is the most famous. It is produced from white grapes, mostly Kraljevina, an old autochthonous variety from Prigorje. On hot days, the locals drink it mixed with mineral water, a beverage known locally as gemišt.

Portugizec Plešivica Grapes have been grown on the hills of Plešivica for hundreds of years, and the region has long been known as home to excellent wines. In recent times, Plešivica has become especially well-known for its production of the Blauer Portugieser variety, which is produced by farms organised into the Portugizec Plešivica Wine Producers’ Co-Op.

51 tradicije ZAGREBAČKOGA KRAJA FLAVOURS OF CROATIAN TRADITION

1. GABREKU 1929 RESTAURANT 2. SAMOBORSKA KLET RESTAURANT 3. GOLF RESTAURANT 4. SUHINA EXCURSION CENTRE 5. IVANČIĆ RESTAURANT 6. KRAŠOGRAD ECO-PARK, DOMAĆICA RESTAURANT 7. BISTRO BABRIGA 8. KOS-JURIŠIĆ WINE EXCURSION CENTRE 9. BUNČIĆ VRBOVEC HOTEL 10. KEZELE FARM

53 Spellbinding scents and flavours imbued with history lure you to the table, whether it is chicken soup with homemade noodles, Samobor-style garlic sausage with mustard, sour cabbage, pickled turnips with beans, barley, duck with buckwheat mash, baked chicken, goose, or turkey with wheat noodles, Samobor salami and prgica dried cheese, unique šljivnjak sweet prune soup, warm Samobor kremšnita custard pie, or even Jelačić šnite cakes… Fresh cottage cheese and cream are a specialty of the region. Like long ago, it still thrills with its simplicity, freshness, and full flavor, whether eaten alone or as a side to homemade Simplicity and sausages, salamis, or dried boiled meats. Without cottage cheese and cream, numerous delicacies are unimaginable: rudarska greblica, zlevka, cicmare, strudel, or štrukli…

Add the first-class wine, bermet dessert wine, brandies, cherry and walnut liqueurs, refinement delicious plum and pear brandy made in the unique setting of the region’s fertile Everyday life poured into a pot tells us about the lifestyle of the area known under the winemaking hills, the obsession with flavours and scents takes over completely. nickname of Zagreb’s green ring. Here, in the central part of northwestern Croatia, this ring around the Croatian capital has succeeded in joining modern urban design with folk And so, before a many-coloured backdrop of local ingredients and charm that travel traditions and values, a string of culinary peculiarities, enjoyment, and experience. through time in forgotten culinary notes and memories, the restaurants that bear the Flavours of the Zagreb Region standard invite you to enjoy true, refined gastronomic moments of joy at the table.

Welcome, and bon appétit!

55 Samobor kremšnita Meat preparedKotlovina in a wide, shallow, hat-shaped metal dish is an unmissable culinary experience at local gatherings, from fairs custard pie to family gatherings in the vineyards. Kotlovina is the perfect cooking method by which chefs can show off their individual tastes, thanks to the limitless combinations in the kinds of meat No traveller should visit Samobor and vegetables that can be used. Still, the main ingredients are without trying the famous local usually pork chops, fresh ham hocks, onion, bell pepper… kremšnita custard pie, a light dessert with a foamy egg cream between two layers of crispy pastry. The main secret of its quality, as the local housewives say, is in the use of local eggs, which give the pie its beautiful yellow colour and full flavour. As opposed to all other kremšnita pies, those from Samobor are unique in that they are eaten warm.

County brands

Cottage Zagreb county boasts a rich selection of traditional food and local wines. In 1999, it became the first in Croatia to begin cheese branding food products produced on Cottage cheese and cream are the region’s basic ingredients. Traditionally made fresh its farms. Today, the protected brands cottage cheese has a fine, leafy structure, and it is usually eaten with cream, either alone of Zagreb County are present on the or as a side dish with dried or boiled cured meats. It is frequently eaten with the addition Croatian market with Kraljevina Zelina of sweet red paprika, onion, garlic, or other vegetables. Numerous regional delicacies are wines, “Sunčana” brand apples, “” unimaginable without cottage cheese. sauerkraut, Samoborska salama, “Kap zdravlja” apple cider vinegar, “Dragec” and “Kriško” cheeses, “Grof” ham, and “Sjećanja za stolom” brand foods and homemade polenta. 57 Main events BRDOVEC, DUBRAVICA, MARIJA GORICA KRAŠIĆ Jun Wine in the Brdovec glass, Feb Stepinac Day 2nd Inter-country exhibit May Krašić Days of Posavina horses, Oct Bread Days - fruits of the Earth 3rd Summer in the Sava-Sutla Valley info: Krašić Tourist Board Jun Bicycle rally www.krasic.hr Sep 3rd Grape harvest How our elders harvested PISAROVINA Oct Štrukli Festival, Marija Gorica Apr Regional Majorettes Championship Nov¸¸ 3rd Gastro-eco-ethno Fair Jun 2. kupska atletska utrka, 11.900 m info: Sava-Sutla Valley Tourist Board Jun Bicycle rally www.tzssdib.hr Jun Kupa evenings Jun 4th International Majorettes Festival DUGO SELO info: Pisarovina Tourist Board Jan St. Vincent’s Day on Martin Breg www.piasrovina.hr Jul Templar Days (first weekend in July) Sep/Oct Dugo Selo Autumns SAMOBOR Nov St. Martin Days - traditional Feb 187th Samobor Fašnik (Carnival) christening of the grape must Mar Battle at Samobor, Vugrinščak info: Dugo SeloTourist Board Apr Samobor Salami Festival www.dugoselo.hr Apr Samobor Spring Fair May 9th Samobor Jazz Festival IVANIĆ-GRAD Jun Watercolours on the raft, Apr Wine Hut open door days art colony on the river raft hiking and cycling at Medsava tour of tourism trails Jul Rudarska Greblica Days May 5th Žabar Carnival Jul International Oldtimer Rally Jun Ivanić-Grad Town Day Sep/Oct 38th Samobor Musical Autumns Jun June in Ivanić Oct Samobor Town Day Oct 9th Squash Festival in Ivanić-Grad info: Samobor Tourist Board info: Ivanić-Grad Tourist Board www.samobor.hr www.tzig.hr SVETA NEDELJA JASTREBARSKO Apr 7th Oldtimer Fair and Car Exhibit Jan Sledding Cup at Plešivica Apr St. George’s Day, Jun /Jul Bicycle rally, Crna Mlaka lighting of the bonfire Jul Green Meadow, May 18th Croatian Classic Marathon old shepherd’s games - classic car rally Sep Jaska Wine Festivities May Town Day in Sveta Nedelja Sep Eco Ethno Jaska May International Carp Cup Sep KotloVina Show, open competition Rakitje Lake in preparing pork and potato stew Sep 14th Sveta Nedelja Fish Stew Oct Plešivica Portugizac Days Cook-off, Rakitje Lake Nov Jastrebarsko Town Day info: Sveta Nedelja Tourist Board info: Jastrebarsko Tourist Board www.svetanedelja.hr www.tzgj.hr 59 SVETI IVAN ZELINA VRBOVEC May International Knight’s Tournament Apr 342nd anniversary of the death in Sveta Helena of Croatian heroes Petar Zrinski May 31st Dragutin Domjanić and Fran Krsto Frankopan contemporary Jun Vrbovec Town Day Kajkavian poetry recital Aug 33rd What our Elders Ate, Jun St. John’s Day tourism and culinary event Oct Zelina Chestnut Festival, Kladeščica Nov Commemoration of the Oct 33th Dragutin Domjanić Festival of 56th anniversary of the death of Kajkavian children’s poetry M.J. Zagorka, City Park info: Sveti Ivan Zelina Tourist Board info: Vrbovec Tourist Board www.tz-zelina.hr www.tz-vrbovec.hr

VELIKA GORICA ZAPREŠIĆ Feb 104th Turopolje Fašnik (Carnival) Jan Vip Snow Queen Trophy, Sljeme Apr St. George’s Day in Turopolje Apr Easter Fishing at Lužnica Lukavec Old Town Apr Planet Earth Day Apr Andautonia Days Apr Zaprešić A.D. 2013 Apr Tour de tur Musical festivity cycling race for citizens May Jelačić Days May Spring Fair May Traditional Carp Cup May Rese Festival Jun Jelačić Noble Youth Ball Jun Gorica Evenings Jul Zaprešić Harvest Festivities Jun Turopolje promenades Aug Festival Nori dvori Jul 13th International Folklore Festival Aug - Oct Jelačić Days Aug Acorn Festival Oct 15th Int. Econmic Fair Sep Dionysus Festivities in Andautonia Nov - Dec 10th Christmas Fair of Oct 11th International Festival the Zaprešić region in Pušća of Traditional Instruments 9th Zagreb Cwounty Spirits Exhibit Oct Children’s Festival info: Zaprešić Tourist Board Nov Gastro Turopolje www.zapresic.hr Dec St. Lucy’s Days info: Velika Gorica Tourist Board www.tzvg.hr

61 B COU RE N G T ZAGREB COUNTY TOURIST BOARD A Y Z Preradovićeva 42, 10000 Zagreb T tel. + 385 1 4873 665, tel./fax 4873 670 O D U R R A www.tzzz.hr, [email protected] I S T B O

TZG Dugog Sela, Josipa Zorića 1, Dugo Selo tel. + 385 1 2753 705, www.dugoselo.hr TZG Ivanić-Grada, Moslavačka 11, Ivanić-Grad tel./fax. + 385 1 2881 591, www.tzig.hr, [email protected] TZG Jastrebarskog, Vladka Mačeka 1, Jastrebarsko tel./fax + 385 1 6272 940, www.tzgj.hr, [email protected] TZG Samobora, Trg kralja Tomislava 5, Samobor tel./fax + 385 1 3360 044, www.samobor.hr, [email protected] TZG Svete Nedelje, Marijana Stilinovića 1, Sveta Nedelja tel./fax + 385 1 33 73 919, www.svetanedelja.hr, [email protected] TZG Svetog Ivana Zeline, Trg Ante Starčevića 13, Sveti Ivan Zelina tel./fax + 385 2061 808, www.tz-zelina.hr, [email protected] TZG Velike Gorice, Trg kralja Tomislava 2, Velika Gorica tel./fax + 385 6222 378, www.tzvg.hr, [email protected] TZG Vrbovca, Trg Petra Zrinskog 7a, Vrbovec tel./fax + 385 1 2791 661, www.vrbovec.hr, [email protected] TZG Zaprešića, Trg Žrtava fašizma 9, Zaprešić tel. + 385 1 3311 611, fax 3310 309, www.tz-zapresic.hr, [email protected] TZO Krašić, Krašić 101, tel. + 385 1 6270 910, www.tzokrasic.hr, [email protected] TZO Pisarovina, Trg S. Radića 13, tel. + 385 1 6291 029, www.pisarovina.hr, [email protected] TZ „Savsko-sutlanska dolina i brigi“ (Brdovec, Dubravica, Marija Gorica), I. Gregurića 13, Brdovec | tel./fax + 385 1 3398 747, www.tzssdib.hr, [email protected]

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T O D U R R A I S T B O Magazine of Croatian tourism / Issue 26 / April, 2018 / Year X / ISSN 1847-1552; Not for sale. Not for 1847-1552; X / ISSN 2018 / Year 26 / April, / Issue tourism of Croatian Magazine