Bears, Beers & Bikes

A Young Person’s Guide to

CTR July Master Final.indd 1-2 7/29/11 10:27 PM Contents

Introduction and History 05

Practical Information 09 First published in July 2011 by City Travel Review, Inc. All words and photos that appear in this guide are Accomodation 19 property of the respective writers and photographers. Copyright © 2011 Tours 27

Museums, Memorials and Sights 35 Cover Illustration and Design Jenny Hyndman Art and Culture 75

Layout Editors Food and Drink 93 Aimee Stanton Jenni Myung Shopping 115 Joe Hawkins Outdoors 133 Editors Jaimielee Rendall Nightlife 143 Maddy Andrews Marie Burrows Meet the Team 165 Rachel Cohen

Photography Editor Jenni Myung

Special Thanks to Lutz, Alex, Marcus, Matt, Caroline, Sophie, Nina and Jeremy in Edinburgh.

CTR July Master Final.indd 3-4 7/29/11 10:27 PM Introduction The extensive public transport network you the low down of the city’s icons, makes getting around both simple museums, and historical must-sees. and for the most part stress free. With We’ve shopped till we dropped so you The official capital of cool (or should From late night to the wee hours, you’re so much to see and do, accidentally wouldn’t burn a hole through your that be unofficial?), Berlin is where sure to find parties you won’t remember getting off at the wrong U-Bahn stop is wallet. We’ve gone ahead and had pre- global hipsters and history addicts rub but will never forget. even a blessing in disguise as you might drinks at all the hip bars so you would shoulders. Whatever your taste, interests stumble across the city’s hidden gems. know how to party like a Berliner. And or financial budget, this quirky, vibrant Berlin is a powerful magnet for fashion, we’ve even ventured beyond the city and effervescent city blends the old and art and music and it is not hard to see It is hardly a surprise then, when speak- limits to sunbathe in the beautiful lakes the new, luring you in and never letting why. This is a city almost overflowing ing about the constantly changing and forests – mostly for ourselves, but go. with creativity. From guerilla fashion nature of ’s capital, former you will benefit from our reports, too! shows hosted in the U-Bahn stations to French culture minister Jack Lang once Either way, this is how we see Berlin, in Each of the city’s distinct neighbour- the pop-up nightclubs in the famous said: “Paris is always Paris and Berlin is the eyes of a young and curious student, hoods has its own charm and character. or , never Berlin!” so we can only hope you too will see the is the tourist hot-spot with visitors Berlin is the ultimate manifestation of absolute brilliance of Berlin! flocking to , the Branden- culture. In our comprehensive guide of Berlin burg Gate and , – Bears, Beers and Bikes – we’ve given City Travel Review Team, July 2011 the mecca for every Cold War thriller Loathe to forgetting its past but keen on aficionado. And if you have a penchant looking towards the future, Berlin strikes for the finer things in life, visit Charlot- a balance between self-reflection and tenburg Palace, Berlin’s majestic Prus- optimism for a brighter tomorrow. This sian palace just within city limits. The is a place where the skyline changes young and the restless congregate in more often than the unpredictable , Friedrichshain and weather. Today, the city has evolved Prenzlauer Berg, where effortlessly hip into a lightning-paced metropolis where bars and clubs seem to be open 24 you won’t ever get bored or run out of hours a day. things to see, do and drink.

5 Bears, Beers and Bikes A Young Persons Guide to Berlin 6

CTR July Master Final.indd 5-6 7/29/11 10:27 PM Berlin: A Brief History These were controlled by the USSR, The low quality of life drove many East Britain, the USA and France. Tensions Berliners to seek refuge in the West. quickly emerged between the Western Founded in the 13th century, Berlin is The 20th century saw the outbreak of Allies and the Soviets regarding the To halt the exodus, the East erected the rich in history. Not without its problems, the First World War, and Germany’s management of the German economy. infamous . this city has experienced many historical defeat meant the city found it increas- These disagreements came to a head in A period of left-wing rebellion and movements that have not only formed ingly difficult to feed its people, leading June 1948, when the Allies introduced a protest erupted in 1968, led mainly by Berlin but the rest of the world. to massive strikes. Kaiser Wilhelm II was new currency – the Deutschmark. university students and the Rote Armee eventually ousted, leading to the found- Viewing this as a breach of the Pots- Faktion (Red Army Faction). Although Berlin grew from the nearby cities ing of the Weimar Republic in 1918. This dam Agreement, which stipulated that things had settled down by 1970, some of Berlin and Cölln, which expanded period promised to bring new freedoms Germany be treated as one economic lasting changes were achieved: universi- rapidly throughout the Middle Ages. In and liberties, but was plagued by politi- zone, the Soviets responded by adopt- ties were modernised, the student body 1709 King Friedrich I declared the unifi- cal and economic instability. ing the Ostmark. Separation between was politicised and the Green Party was cation of the five towns of Berlin, Cölln, the two states became official in 1949. founded. , , and Unfortunately, this era of uncertainty The Western Zones formed the Federal to form the capital and paved the way for Hitler and the Nazi Republic of Germany (FRG) with Bonn as By the 1980s, change was in the air, but royal residence of Berlin. Party. The German people had had its capital, and the East became the Ger- what came next surprised the world. enough of poverty and squalor and man Democratic Republic (GDR), whose The Wende (the fall of ) From 1740, Berlin developed into a cen- craved stability. Hitler rose through the capital was . was gradual, eventually climaxing in the tre of the Enlightenment, establishing it- ranks of politics at an incredible pace. collapse of the Berlin Wall on 9th No- self at the forefront of European culture, Appointed Chancellor in 1933, he fused The West flourished under the leader- vember 1989. Berlin became a separate a reputation it still enjoys today. Under the offices of President and Chancellor, ship of Chancellor Konrad Adenauer, city-state; however, economic reform the rule of Friedrich the Great, some of gaining absolute power and becoming with the progressive economic policies took place in the mid-1990s which led Berlin’s most well-known monuments Führer of the Third Reich. Home to the of Ludwig Erhard paving the way for the to the signing of the Unification Treaty. were constructed. These include St Hed- Headquarters of the Nazi Party, Berlin Wirtschaftswunder (economic miracle) In 1991, it was decided that Berlin would wig’s Cathedral, Prinz-Heinrich-Palais was the focal point of Allied attacks on of the 1950s and 60s. Meanwhile, the once again become the capital and (now Humboldt University) and The Germany, which resulted in much of the East was crippled by oppressive Com- home to the German government. Opera Palace. In 1861, the city expanded city being destroyed. The wide-spread munist rule. The economy was stagnant further with the incorporation of the reconstruction shaped the landscape of and the people lived under constant A stroll in Berlin feels like a walk through suburbs , Gesundbrunnen, the city we recognise today. surveillance by the Ministry for State Se- history. Its tumultuous past and varied Moabit, Chalottenburg, Schöneberg and curity (Staatsicherheitspolizei or Stasi). cultural tapestry has made Berlin the Rixdorf. In 1871 Berlin was named as After the War, Berlin, along with the rest buzzing capital you are visiting today. capital of the German Reich, becoming of Germany, was divided into four the empire’s political, economic, and occupation zones. (S.Gleeson and J.Rendall) scientific hub.

A Young Persons Guide to Berlin 8

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Tram Getting around in Berlin The tram system only operates in East Berlin as the trams Berlin is a very big city, but luckily for tourists there is an excellent and extensive in the west were privatised and turned into the metro public transport network under the BVG Company. This extends throughout the bus that you see today. Its lines cover most of the ar- whole city, and also out to many prime spots outside city limits. eas in the east which the S and U-Bahn don’t reach. It also links destinations where the closest train Berlin’s transport is divided into three sections, A, B and C, and ticket prices can vary or underground station is not within comfortable depending on which section you are travelling to. On the BVG website, you will find walking distance. a journey planner, which can be used in English. Bus The bus network runs everywhere, including places the The public transport system offers four means of travelling: U-Bahn, S-Bahn, ramT Trams, S and U-bahn don’t reach. It is the most extensive and Bus: network in the city. The bus service runs to the airports, including the X9 to Tegel, departing from stations including Kurt-Schumacher-Platz U-bahn (U6), Jakob-Kaiser-Platz and (U7), and the X7 to Shönefeld, which This underground train system (much like the departs from Rudow (U7). Underground, the Paris Métro and the New York Subway), operates mostly underground, with a few routes which run over ground too. The service Plane runs frequently and you’re sure to reach your desti- In the unlikely event that you ever want to leave Berlin, there are two airports which nation quickly as the trains are fast and efficient. On are close-by, Tegel, which is in North- and Shönefeld, which is south- Friday and Saturday nights there is a service running east. Both are easily accessible by S and U-bahn and then a connecting bus service along all lines except the U4 and U55. This service – which are well signposted. There is also a train service which runs from Ostkreuz runs from 12:30am - 5:30am Fri/Sat and Sat/Sun and train station, the S9, to Flughafen Berlin-Shönefeld. until 7am prior to public holidays.

S-bahn Tegel is within zone B, so if you’ve bought a season ticket for zones AB then it’ll be included. However, Shönefeld is within zone C, so you will need to buy an addi- Similar to the U-Bahn, however this system operates mostly tional ticket. over ground, with a few lines around going underground. This is like a regular short distance In 2012, there will be a new airport opening: the Berlin Brandenburg Airport. This rail way system. The S-bahn travels quickly between will mean that Tegel will most likely close, with all air traffic being directed to the stations, so even if on the map your destination looks new merger of Shönefeld. Once open, there will be more airport connections made far away, you’ll arrive reasonably fast. On Friday and from the airport, making it easier for travellers to get to the centre. Saturday nights there is a service running along all lines except the S45 and S85. This service runs from 12:30am - 5:30am Fri/Sat and Sat/Sun and until 7am prior to public holidays.

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CTR July Master Final.indd 11-12 7/29/11 10:27 PM practical information If you are in Berlin for more than a few days it may be benificial to buy a weekly or a monthly ticket. 7 day and monthly passes can be bought for zones AB, BC and ABC. Tickets 7 day tickets start at €27.20 for an AB pass and €33.50 for ABC This underground train system (much like the London Underground, the Paris Monthly passes start at €53 for AB and €91 for ABC Métro and the New York Subway), operates mostly underground, with a few routes which run over ground too. The service runs frequently and you’re sure to reach Please note, all tickets must be validated before use. This can be done on any plat- your destination quickly as the trains are fast and efficient. On Friday and Saturday form and on select trams and buses. Separate tickets must be bought for zone C if nights there is a service running along all lines except the U4 and U55. This service a ticket for AB is purchased. A dog can be brought on the train under these tickets runs from 12:30am - 5:30am Fri/Sat and Sat/Sun and until 7am prior to public holi- free of charge; additional tickets will need to be bought for extra dogs. You will also days. need a bicycle ticket to travel with a bicycle.

Tickets aren’t as expensive as they may be in other cities, which is handy for travel- Random ticket checks are carried out by plain clothes officers who will show you ler’s on a budget. There are a many types of tickets, and the best one for you will be their badge and ask to see your ticket. If you do not have a valid ticket for the jour- dependent on how long you are planning to stay in the city. Tickets can be bought ney you are taking you will be liable for a €40 fine. in most stations on ticket machines and in over 250 hotels. Season tickets can be purchased at any outlet in train stations or at the airport upon arrival. There are three tariff areas in Berlin:

• Zone A: Berlin’s inner city up to and including the urban rail ring • Zone B: Outside the urban rail ring up to the city boundary • Zone C: Greater Berlin (area approx. 15 km around the State of Berlin), including the City of Potsdam

Maps Maps of the S and U-bahn can be found on the majority of trains in the city. Fold out maps which often also incorporate a general city map are obtainable from information kiosks, hotels and many other public locations. Digital rout-planners and downloadable versions of the S and U-bahn, tram, and bus routes are available on the BVG website at: www.bvg.de/index.php/en/17099/name/Network+Map. html

For more information on the transport network and tickets, visit www.bvg.de (Available in English).

(M.Andrews) 13 Bears, Beers and Bikes A Young Person’s Guide to Berlin 14

CTR July Master Final.indd 13-14 7/29/11 10:27 PM practical information Naming a Berlin-born child: By law you cannot give your Berlin Trivia child an invented name or one that is gender-ambiguous. Pedestrianism: Be careful about Jaywalking, if you get The following are some gems stumbled upon by the guide’s contributors. Some caught doing it you face a 40€ fine, so ensure to wait for the have practical and maybe even survival application and some are simply included green Ample mann! Ample mann is the lit-up figure with the to enlighten you on the ever intriguing city of Berlin. wide-brimmed hat was originally introduced in East Berlin to engage children’s attention in road safety but the iconic illumi- Water: In Berlin tapwater is avoided by many, despite the fact that it nation has spread throughout the city. is perfectly fine to drink. Thus unless otherwise asked, sparkling min- eral water is served and charged for automatically. To avoid this ask for ’s Quadriga: In 1806, Napoleon stole this four-horsed chariot ‘ohne Kohlensäure’ which is still, or ‘Leitungswasser’ for tap. Beware from on top of the Brandenburg Gate as a symbol of his victory. Interestingly the however, asking for ‘Lei-s-tungswasser’ will earn you many strange goddess of victory driving her Quadriga is one of very few ‘clothed’ goddesses be- looks from confused German bar staff as you just requested ‘perfor- cause Germans didn’t want a naked backside to be a first impression of Berlin. mance water’. Losing faith in your language abilities: Berliners are well Misinterpreted courtesy: Inquiring into a Berliner’s welfare with ‘wie geh’t es dir?’ Sprechen Sie acquainted with English-speaking tourists and generally happy (how are you?), may be considered a cultural faux pas and pretty nosey! However Englisch? to speak English. If you do encounter any problems then this despite being a relatively private society, they are incredibly used to tourists and should help: their mixture of mannerisms. Language Survival Guide Legendary opinions: David Bowie and Iggy Pop lived in Berlin during the 1970s. Bowie is supposed to have described they city as “the greatest cultural extravaganza that one could imagine.” Meeting People Hello – guten Tag! / Hallo Goodbye – auf Wiedersehen / Tschuss

The trains: BVG (who operate the S and U-bahn) offer cheap Please – bitte group offers to ‘exotic’ places like Strettin in Poland for 6€ Thank you (very much) – Danke(schoen) (per person when in a group of four or five). Yes/No – Ja/Nein Cinema: Expect an intermission punctuating most Do you speak English? – Sprechen Sie Englisch? films you view in Berlin. Do you understand (me)? – Verstehen Sie (mich)

Prioritising beer: Imported coffee was banned by Friedrich II ‘The Great’ in order Yes, I understand (you) – Ja, ich verstehe (Sie) to encourage sales of the local beverage: beer! No, I don’t understand (you) – Nein, ich verstehe (Sie) nicht

Could you reapeat that? – Könnten Sie das bitte wiederholen? Prioritising dogs: Dogs can go just about anywhere in Berlin, restaurants, buses, trains, shops, and bookstores - Could you say that slower please? – Könnten Sie das bitte langsamer sagen? possibly not the kebab shop. Could you write that down? – Könnten Sie das bitte aufschreiben?

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Out and About What’s on? – Was ist los? Numbers & Days of the Week This weekend – dieses Wochenende One – Eins Today – heute Two – Zwei Monday – Montag Tonight – heute Abend Three – Drei Tuesday – Dienstag Where are the ...? – Wo sind die...? Four – Vier Wednesday – Mittwoch Clubs – Klubs Five – Fünf Thursday – Donnerstag Restaurants – Restaurants Six – Sechs Friday – Freitag Pubs – Kneipen Seven – Sieben Saturday – Samstag Toilets – Toiletten Eight – Acht Sunday – Sonntag How much is that? – Wie viel kostet das? Nine – Neun I’m lost – Ich habe mich verlaufen Ten – Zehn Where is ...? – Wo ist ...? Excuse me – Entschuldigung Travel Sorry – Es tut mir Leid Ticket – Fahrkarte / Ticket Where can I buy ...? – Wo kann ich ... kaufen? Departure – Abfahrt Identification – Ausweis Arrival – Ankunft Airport – Flughafen Restaurants and Food Train station – Bahnhof What’s that? – Wie heißt das? Underground train – U-Bahn I’d like ... – Ich hätte gern ... Tram – S-Bahn Another ... – Noch ein/eine/einen ... When does (the bus) leave? – Wann fährt (der Bus) ab? The bill, please – die Rechnung, bitte! The train – der Zug A table for x people, please – Einen Tisch für x Personen, bitte The boat – das Boot Snack bar/takeaway stand – Imbiss Plane – der Flugzeug Fork – Gabel Knife – Messer Spoon - Löffel

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The Western comfort has dorms rather and the cosy (if not a little too cosy) than rooms giving it a more back-packer kitchen opens up to the lounge, where The vibe, although all clients have full use of deep-set couches and retro lamps foster Circus does both boats’ amenities such as free wifi, an open and convivial atmosphere. pride itself in its sun terrace and lounge bar. The help- dynamic social life as the ful staff honour their ‘no curfew’ rule The rooms themselves are a sight to party downstairs in Goldsmith’s bar making stays at the hostel boats a lot of be seen. Each has been recently refur- runs happy hours and DJ’s as well as fun. Located metres away from Berlin’s bished and the walls have been given Circus Hostel live music sets featured every night. The famous wall, Warschauer Strasse S-bahn an artistic face-lift. Marvel at the walls in enthusiastic staff will also challenge you and the Kochstrasse party strip, com- the Ocean Room where bright floor-to- Weinbergsweg 1a i to the notorious ‘Boot drinking contest’ bined with its quirky set up, a stay at the ceiling murals emulate Nemo’s aquatic Mitte which dares travellers to drink a mon- hostel, or just drinks at the lounge will habitat, or the Silhouette Room where U-bahn: Rosenthaler Platz strous two litre glass of beer. Or if you’re be an unforgettable visit. This place is a creative collage of life-size silhouettes Price: €19 - €100 in the mood for something a bit more constantly busy so booking 3 - 4 months dance along all four walls. www.circus-berlin.de bizarre have a look at the wacky shrine in advance is advisable and note that dedicated to none other than cult actor/ prices vary with season. (J. Hyndman) The Bax Pax chain includes two addi- Situated in the hub of Berlin’s Mitte singer, David Hasselhoff. (A. Stanton) tional Berlin locations: Bax Pax Down- district, the Circus Hostel is in a prime Bax Pax Hostels town serves as a “boutique hostel” location for those who want to revel in Eastern Comfort Hostel Boat – slightly more expensive, modern Chausseestraße 102 what the city has to offer. Although if and Lounge design and a flashy roof top terrace. The Mitte you’re after the alternative cool that Ber- i Kreuzberg location is a bit more hip with U-bahn: Naturkunemuseum lin is legendary for, you might be slightly Mühlenstraße 73 - 77 Price: €6 - €46 in summer a dash of punk, attracting visitors who Friedrichhain i disappointed with your stay here due www.baxpax.de are looking to experience Berlin’s more Warschauer Straße to its more mainstream approach to U-bahn: alternative scene. €12.00 - €78.00 in summer hostelling. Price: www.eastern-comfort.com Bax Pax Hostels run a well-oiled opera- All BP hostels offer consistent service Spending the night in the standard ac- tion where even the most seasoned and cleanliness, so you won’t be disap- commodation won’t over stretch your If you’re after a unique experience while traveller is bound to be impressed. The pointed wherever you choose to stay. budget too much as sleeping in a mixed staying in Berlin, peer behind the wall Mitte location is tailored for all types (J.Myung) dorm of ten will cost you €19 for a night, of the East Side Gallery. Two boats - the including the backpacker bunch, city- but that unfortunately means a risky Eastern and Western Comfort - are virgins with a tight schedule and those morning dash across the hall into the decked out as hostels for travellers after with a minimal budget and propensity shower room. If you’re a slightly more something a bit out of the ordinary. for social mingling. decadent traveller then prepare to part The only one of its kind in Berlin, this with €100 for a night in the penthouse company has it spot on: a wide range The reception desk apartments. These private top floor suits of accommodation means prices span shares table offer a visual treat as the large windows from €12-€78 and you’ll experience space with present a stunning panoramic view of anything from camping on the deck of a bar the city. the Eastern Comfort (tents provided), to a luxury room complete with private, waterside terrace. 21 Bears, Beers and Bikes A Young Person’s Guide to Berlin 22

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Tempted to make a reservation? Propeller Island City Lodge yourself up in and think happy, happy First, visit the website and pick out thoughts. Or on Valentine’s Day, book Albrecht Achilles Straße 58 your three favourite rooms as there is yourself and your paramour into Mir- i no guarantee that your first pick will rors. The voyeuristic room is completely U-bahn: Adenauerplatz be available. Bear in mind that not all covered in a kaleidoscope of looking Opening Times: Reception from 8:00am – rooms have a TV and while the whole glasses looking at you. But if this insan- 12:00pm (Mon. – Sun.) hotel pulses with Wi-Fi, the signal can ity is too much, there are much more Price: €69.00 – €115.00 be too weak in some rooms, necessitat- sanguine salles of solitude to repose in, www.propeller-island.com ing a hike to the Internet-suite on the like the Orange Room: the name really first floor. “No sex in the coffins.” Clearly this is no says it all. ordinary hotel, especially when this sign Next, you will need to notify the Lodge This madhouse is the brainchild of Lars at reception warns against such activi- when you plan to arrive due to the Stroschen. A musician first, he founded ties in one of their taphophilic family reception’s limited business hours or Propeller Island as a record label that rooms. However, if you are alone and risk being locked out of the building. was one of the first in Berlin to produce mentally unstable, or want to be, then Lastly, know how many people will stay electronic music, and whose name is scream yourself to sleep in the Padded with you. Unlike most hotels that allow lent to the hotel. An artist second, the Cell with upholstered green walls lit one other person free in a single room, concept is for guests to live in works of naturally with light streaming through here you will have to pay 15€ per addi- art. Begun in 1993, Stroschen worked green-tinted windows and artificially tional body. All this information can be on his own for nine years to finish all 31 with lime fluorescence. There is only submitted electronically on the hotel’s rooms with their bespoke furnishings. In room enough for a raised bed, giving website. However, as a tip, call directly 2002 the hotel stood complete with his your duvet the feeling of a claustro- as it may be possible to talk yourself into art gallery on the ground floor. phobic straitjacket that you can wrap a better deal that may include the cold, buffet breakfast for free.(C. Thompson) 23 Bears, Beers and Bikes A Young Person’s Guide to Berlin 24

CTR July Master Final.indd 23-24 7/29/11 10:27 PM accommodation Wombats Hostel The rooms themselves are clean and Alte Schönhauserstraße 2 simple, varying from four bed dormito- Prenzlauer Berg i ries to double bedroom apartments. U-bahn: Rosa Luxemburg Platz Price: €22.00 - €40.00 in summer An “All-You-Can-Eat” breakfast buffet is www.wombats-hostels.com/berlin available for €3.70 and includes a wide selection of fruit, pastries, cereals and “Shrimp on the Barbie”, “Bonza!”, meats. A rooftop bar offers panoramic “Crikey, look at that Sheila!” Australian views of Berlin and is a cosy and inviting stereotypes all seem to involve having place to meet fellow travellers. Best of a great time. Set up by two Germans all though is the daily happy hour start- who met in Melbourne, Wombats chan- ing at 6pm. Any memories from beyond nels that Aussie party spirit whilst also 9pm on a postcard please... combining it with some stereotypical German efficiency and high standards. All the cool kids go to Wombats, but to Located only one U-bahn stop away get a place you’ll have to do something from on the U2 line, all terminally uncool and book in advance. major sights and good night life spots (R. Adams) are easily accessible from the hostel.

The reception is open 24 hours a day to cater for your urgent or less urgent needs and the staff are friendly, accom- modating and (most importantly) fluent in English!

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CTR July Master Final.indd 27-28 7/29/11 10:27 PM tours Berlin Underground/ (train ticket included), where the tour M1 Tour Further along the line at Schonhauser Berliner Unterwelten offers a glimpse into the workings of a Allee there are shops aplenty, includ- ‘modern’ bunker constructed to survive U-bahn: Pankow ing a Humana charity shop for those Brunnenstraße 105 a full-blown nuclear war. Opening Times: Runs 24 hours a day i who like a bargain. Rosenthaler Platz is Mitte i Price: €2.10 for a single ticket also popular amongst fashionistas, with U-bahn: Gesundbrunnen The eerily claustrophobic yet empty en- www.bvg.de plenty of boutiques, vintage shops and Opening Times: 9:30am–1:00pm (Apr. - Oct.), vironment provides an excellent canvas designer names to keep even the most 10:00am–1:00pm (Nov. - Mar.) to paint a picture of what nightmarish If sightseeing on a tacky tourist bus avid shopper satisfied. Price: €10 hardships the Berlin citizens could have isn’t your cup of tea, then make like the www.berliner-unterwelten.de faced, had nuclear warfare not been locals do and hop on the M1 tram. Run- For those who fancy a drink, get off averted. Detailed information is dis- ning from North Berlin (either Rosenthal in the bar district of Kastanienallee, or Summer in Berlin does not guarantee pensed along with humourous anec- Nord or Schillerstraße tram station) to to soak up some culture head to the sensational sunshine all day every day, dotes to keep the group entertained, the central district of Mitte, this route Friedrichstadt-Palast theatre and catch so if fate would deny you your sun whilst an interactive nature sees partici- operates 24 hours a day and provides a a cabaret. For a peek around legendary tanning exploits, strongly consider the pants faced with adrenaline pumping wealth of sights which are often over- art squat Tachelles jump off at Oranien- Berliner Unterwelten ‘Subways, crisis scenarios, such as manually restor- looked. staße, or alternatively ride the M1 to the Bunkers, Cold War’ tour. ing power to a bunker. end of the line and immerse yourself in Near the beginning of the route at the wonders of Museum Island, the tram Commencing at Gesundbrunnen, Tickets can only be purchased on the Pankow is the Kunst Stuff or ‘Trash Art’ stopping conveniently near the this guided excursion through the day apart from special group tours, so Museum, housing jewellery, furniture, Pergamon. Who knew public transport underground of West Berlin explores arrive early to avoid long queues. The fabric, foam, scrap metal - anything you could be such fun! (M. Burrows) the threat of nuclear war in the 1980s, organisation also offers alternative could possibly need to get creative. including a WWII air raid shelter reno- underground tours at prices under 15€, vated to serve as a nuclear bunker. From the only accepted payment is by cash. here you move on to Pankstrasse station (P. Ellis)

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Tours with Terry Russian so, sadly, many English tour- ists may miss out on it. Fortunately, Meeting point: Friedrichstraße Station Terry is fluent in several languages and U-bahn: Friedrichstraße i his knowledge and passion for the pe- Price: Students: €10. Adults: €12 riod shines through as he colourfully fills www.brewersberlintours.com the group in on the museum’s exhibi- tions. To stand in the room where one There can be very few tours in Berlin or of the bloodiest periods in European indeed the world that last for ten hours history came to an end is a truly hum- and end in the tour guide’s favourite bling experience. pub sinking shots while he chastises the way Americans hold their cutlery. Going may not feature highly on a tour with Terry Brewer, formerly in on too many people’s list of places to the British navy and resident of Berlin for visit in Berlin, but is worth an hour of 50 years (on and off), is like studying for anyone’s time for the majestic monu- all your exams in one day, while walking ment of a Soviet soldier alone. This com- around a city in 30 degree heat. It’s just memorative site, where around 7,000 as well he ends the tour in his favourite Soviet soldiers who fell in the Battle in drinking establishment, as you’ll need a Berlin are buried, is an evocative and few drinks to digest the day. beautifully crafted memorial.

Starting at 10:30am outside Friedrich- Terry is quite possibly the most ener- strasse station, the tour can take a myr- getic, 70-something on the planet, so iad of routes as Terry allows the group make sure you bring plenty of water to choose places they would like to visit. and a good pair of shoes if you want to As such, our group went to the Eastside keep up. However, if you are after a tour Gallery before going out to Karlshorst that digs a little deeper into the history museum (the site where the Nazi’s sur- of Berlin and Germany, then the blisters rendered in World War II) and finally the and mental exhaustion are a small price Soviet war memorial in Treptower Park. to pay as you sip your Berliner Pilsner at the end of the day. All the signs in (I. Woodcock) Karlshorst are in German and

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Brewers Berlin Free Tour complexion reaching for the suntan At the foot of this Beast, a woman takes lotion during the spring and summer your money and leads you down steps U-bahn: Alexanderplatz months, and stops are numerous. into a crypt for dead, old-time carnival Starting Times: Mon-Sun 1:00pm i ride characters. But for 20 minutes, they Price: Tipping is advised. As the title suggests, you are under no become possessed. Imagine The Night- (Around 5€ is reasonable.) obligation to pay anything if you don’t mare Before Christmas and Corpse Bride www.brewersberlintours.com want to, however it is highly unlikely if Tim Burton directed them on LSD and you will be of that opinion come the animated them with welded metal and The Brewers Berlin Free walking tour end of your whirlwind tour through this air piston-powered animatronics. offers an excellent insight into some live wire city. (I. Woodcock) of Berlin’s greater, and lesser known, The whole tour is guided by the woman tourism hot-spots in just three-and-a- Monsterkabinett by with her pet brain, whose eyes dance half to four hours. The über enthusiastic Dead Chicken to the cacophony of music that ranges and highly entertaining guides have a from jazz fusion to rave, to the climax detailed knowledge and passion for the Rosenthaler Straße 39 in the macabre Mirrors Room, where... city, which makes for a fascinating tour. Mitte i Well, that is for you to find out. But be Starting places can vary (consult the U-bahn: guaranteed an experience that will lurk Opening Times: Thu. 6:00pm – 10:00pm. Fri & website or email: info@brewersberlin. in the shadows of your soul and perturb Sat. 4:00pm – 10:00pm com for more information) but a com- your sanity when you are most alone. Price: Student: €5.00. Adult: €8.00 mon meeting point is at the Old Muse- (C. Thompson) www.monsterkabinett.de um in Alexanderplatz.

As every tour is Welcome to Monsterkabinett: catered to the where Lovecraftian re-anima- taste of both tions of human kind’s most the guide surreal nightmares come alive leading it and using mechanical monstrosi- those taking ties. Located deep in the bow- part the route els of the Haus Schwarzenberg and places alleyway, visitors are first greet- visited can dif- ed by the pneumatic, enigmatic fer, however you Der Bloch. This ghoulish, robotic are likely to see; the chimera of a pot-bellied fly lurches and New Guard, Humboldt flops around from atop its seven-foot University, Checkpoint Charlie, the Me- tall metal plinth; tattered batwings jerk morial for the murdered Jews of open and close to grab your attention and the Brandenburg Gate. The pace is like a freak show ringleader beckoning generally very relaxed, as is befitting a you inside. city which will have those with a fairer

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museums memorials sights

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CTR July Master Final.indd 35-36 7/29/11 10:28 PM museums, memorials and sights Television Tower / Fernsehturm

Nikolai Quarter / Nikolai Panoramastraße 1 Mitte i Viertel U-bahn / S-bahn: Alexanderplatz i Opening Times: 9:00am – Midnight Mitte i (Mar. - Oct.),10:00am – Midnight (Nov. - U-bahn: Klosterstraße Feb.) www.-berlin.de Price: 11.00€ www.tv-turm.de In the shadow of the TV Tower’s gar- ish modern disco ball lies the Nikolai Undoubtedly the finest view of Berlin is Quarter, a Berlin long forgotten, from that from the Fernsehturm (Television before the ravages of the 20th centu- Tower) in the heart of Alexanderplatz. ry and even the great kings of . Constructed in 1969 by architects Fritz Nestled within this tiny area is a rich Dieter, Günter Franke and Werner treasure trove of tales and titbits wait- Ahrendt to demonstrate East Berlin’s ing to be feasted upon. technological superiority over West Ber- lin, this impressive structure transmits The quarter is the oldest part of the a vast number of radio and TV channels city and its historic centre, being on a daily basis. At 368m tall, the tower founded there in 1270. Berlin’s oldest cuts a colossal figure - inspiring awe and building, the grand Nikolai Church, wonder in residents and tourists alike. is situated in the quarter and houses an extensive exhibition on the city’s As with many major attractions, expect history and evolution. Home to count- long waiting times (30-60 mins). How- less traditional German restaurants, ever, to pass the time there are video including the historic Zum Nussbaum, screens displaying background informa- Berlin’s oldest pub until its destruc- tion and, failing that, infuriated mothers tion in World War II and now rebuilt to wrestling their brattish bundles of joy its former glory, the area is a quaint, into obedient submission. Taking just atmospheric townscape. Although 40 seconds, the elevator travels at an much of the quarter is a reconstruc- electrifying 5 metres per second, both tion from 1979, necessitated by its impressive and necessary when sud- decimation in World War II, this does denly exposed to the combined human not detract from its charm. body odour from previous trips.

Stepping into the quarter’s winding Regardless, with a bar and revolving cobbled streets is to enter a haven of restaurant, at 11€ the tower is terrific rustic calm, set apart from the modern value for money with no time limit roar that now characterises much of involved. The 360 degree landscape is Berlin. The only thing to disturb you breathtaking, with Berlin’s most majestic here is the jaunty trill of a distant or- landmarks – from the to the gan grinder moving ominously closer. Brandenburger Tor – on display. (P.Ellis) (R. Adams)

37 Bears, Beers and Bikes A Young Person’s Guide to Berlin 38

CTR July Master Final.indd 37-38 7/29/11 10:28 PM museums, memorials and sights / Topog- The museum is an informative and raphie des Terrors emotive exhibition that can be accessed throughout the day all year round free Niederkirchnerstraße 8 of charge. (J. Hawkins) Mitte i U-bahn: Potsdamer Platz / Kochstraße Opening Times:10:00am – 8:00pm City Hall / Free www.topographie.de/en 15 Rathhausstraße Mitte i Situated on the site of what was once S-bahn: Hackescher Markt the most feared address in Berlin, the Opening Times: 9am – 6pm (Mon.) former Gestapo and SS headquarters turned open air museum acts as a To get acquainted with the city’s main solemn reminder of the city’s harrow- tourist sites and their historical impor- ing past. In stark contrast to the grand tance, visiting Rotes Rathaus early in architecture of the Luftwaffe headquar- your trip will be very beneficial. Rotes Checkpoint Charlie ters and the commercial streets of the Rathaus, or “Red Town Hall,” stands American Sector surrounding it, the proudly in Mitte with its strong, brick Friedrichstraße, Corner Kochstraße block wide monument lies mainly at infrastructure and towering clock, ad- Mitte i ground level; with only the single story equately designed to resemble Siena’s U-Bahn: Kochstraße museum building at the far end of the Palazzo Pubblico. Not only does it site rising above. contain the offices of the ruling mayor Where East Berlin meets West Berlin, and Berlin’s senators, but it also offers Checkpoint Charlie is the checkpoint for The modern building is furnished with interesting and informative displays in the US and the Soviet soldiers. Situated a huge number of suspended informa- both English and German. A large, touch on Friedrichstraße, it’s a tiny little tour- tion boards, depicting in great detail the screen table gives brief summaries of ist trap focusing on the comings and events that took place during the rise vital visiting grounds such as the Reich- goings of soldiers during the Cold War. and fall of the Nazi reign. The informa- stag and Brandenburg Gate. Walking Tourists travel here for the excitement tion is vast - working your way through along the circular path on the second exploited by Hollywood – being told athis massive timeline can take the bet- floor will lead you to the Hall of Arms that spies were exchanged using this ter part of half a day. (Wappensaal)—a room that surrounds checkpoint. That’s the myth. you with stained glass windows that dis- What you actually find here is a group For those with less time to spare, a play each of the different districts’ coat of actors dressed inaccurately as Soviet condensed account of the information of arms. This delicate room is where the and US soldiers, with a fake sign, a fake can be found outside in the shadow of city counsel of “Greater Berlin,” which picture of soldiers and a fake checkpoint invalid. The only historical event which the second largest remaining piece of was formed in 1920 and divided Berlin house. You can pay 2€ to have your happened here is when the Russian and the Berlin wall. This shorter version runs into administrative boroughs, held its photo taken with a so called solider US tanks had a stand-off for four days. the length of the remains of 30 under- meetings before World War II. Next, you or alternatively 5€ to have an German Other than that it is a Mickey Mouse ground prison cells occupied by over will come across The Hall of Pillars (der Democratic Republic stamp in your tourist attraction, making a mockery of 20,000 people during the Nazi reign, Säulensaal), which is layered with sculp- passport – something which once in the Cold War, a situation which affected but unfortunately fails to provide much tures; however, the sculptures’ have your passport makes the document thousands of people. (M.Andrews) detail on the cells themselves. little written to describe them, and it is 39 Bears, Beers and Bikes A Young Person’s Guide to Berlin 40

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only in German. So for those who don’t – the city’s celebration of techno music. carry around a German dictionary or encyclopedia, it is difficult to see these Inside the building you will find compre- historic sculptures as anything more hensive historical information, as well than realistically shaped rocks. Still, the as numerous models of other famous different rooms of Rotes Rathaus are architectural feats such as The Reichstag worth a look, even if it is just to get an and Big Ben. For a modest three euros overview of Berlin’s monuments and you can ascend the column by foot, but history. (R. Cohen) with its 66m and staggering 285 steps, weary travellers may wish to pray for Victory Column / Siegessäule an abundance of strength from Victo- ria beforehand. The first floor features Großer Stern 1 an exquisite mosaic mural of German Mitte i history, in advance of a breath-taking, U-bahn: Hansa platz. albeit cramped, view of Berlin’s famous S-bahn: Tiergarten architecture at the uppermost level. Opening Times: 9:30am – 6:30pm (P. Ellis)

(Mon.-Fri.) (Apr. - Oct.), 9:30am – 7:00pm (Sat – Sun) (Apr. - Oct.), (‘Under the 10:00am – 5:00pm (Mon.-Fri.) (Nov. - Linden Trees‘) is here as well, which produced many ac- These are the (1830), the Mar.), 10:00am – 5:30pm (Sat – Sun) ademics, including . Many (1859), the Alte National- (Nov. - Mar.) Mitte i of the buildings at the east end of the galerie (1876), the (1904) Price: Student: 2.50€. Adult: 3.00€ U-bahn: Brandenburger Tor / S-bahn: street are the Crown Prince’s palace and and the Pergamon Museum (1930), all of Friedrichstraße the Historical Museum, a large amount of which bringing to light another part of Designed by Heinrich Strach in 1864, people visit to soak up the area’s history. German history. The Berliner Dom (Berlin this magnificently adorned monolith Unter den Linden cuts through the heart Towards the west of the street, by the Cathedral) also sits on the island, where features a glimmering golden statue of of Berlin’s centre. It runs from east to Brandenburg Gate, is , with tourists can climb to the dome at the top the Roman goddess of victory (Victoria) west starting at the former Stadtschloss a gorgeous garden and fountain. This and have a 360 degree view of the city. at the peak, commemorating German royal palace to Pariser Platz and the is where you’d find many of the foreign Brilliant if the weather is nice! military victories over Denmark, Austria Brandenburg Gate. Its name simply embassies and the famous Adlon hotel. Sitting in the middle of the island is the and France in the 19th century. Origi- refers to the Linden trees which line (M. Andrews) beautiful , a grassy area run- nally located in the Platz der Republik, the pavements, making this historical ning alongside the River . Perfect the column was relocated by the Nazis street a busy but beautiful place. During Museum Island / Museuminsel for relaxing and admiring the architecture in 1938 to the centre of the vast Tiergar- the days of World War II, the trees were Karl-Liebknecht Straße of the Museums, the centre piece is the ten park, where it survived World War II ripped out and replaced with Nazi flags calming fountain, where you can spy without extensive damage. by Adolf Hitler, but were replaced after Mitte people paddling on a hot day. the people of Berlin disagreed with this. www.smb.musuem.com i On the actual island there isn’t much to Nowadays this structure is one of Ber- Along this street you will find historical see, aside from marvelling at the intricate lin’s most important monuments and, places including , Hedwig’s Museum Island is located at the east architecture on the buildings, but once plays host to the city’s extravagant New Cathedral and , with the end of Unter den Linden, on the River you enter one of its many museums you Year’s Eve celebrations. In previous years sculpture ‘A mother with her dead son’. Spree. It is named so because it features won’t be short of things to do. (M. Andrews) it formed the centre for the The well acclaimed Humbolt University five internationally significant museums.

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Neues Museum Pergamon Museum / Perga- sate your thirst for knowledge as it can Off either side are exhibit rooms display- monmuseum mercilessly drown the mind of the intel- ing over 270,000 artefacts from Mesopo- Bodestrasse 1-3 lectually greedy. tamia, Syria and Anatolia including the Mitte i earliest evidence of writing. 5 Every doorway is a portal to an ancient Opening Times: 10:00am – 6:00pm Mitte i (Mon. – Weds.), 10:00am – 8:00pm time; every room is an homage to an Directly above is the Museum of Islamic S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt ancient civilisation. To the right of the Art. Exquisite pieces of all sorts are on (Thu. – Sat.), 10:00am – 6:00pm (Sun.) Opening Times: 10:00am – 6:00pm. Price: Student: €5 Adult: €10 altar, past the incomplete and damaged display, including tapestries, examples (Mon. – Sun.),10:00am – 10:00pm (Thu.) friezes depicting the Gigantomachy that of calligraphy and mosaics from the 8th U-Bahn: Alexanderplatz / S-bahn - Frie- Price: Student: €6.00. Adult: €12.00 drichstraße run around the entire main chamber, to the 19th Century. The pieces were www.smb.museum is an entrance. Step through and come brought to Berlin from lands as far west out of the intact two-storey Propylon as Moorish Spain to as far east as Muslim The Neues Museum is one of the five Approaching the great monolith façade museums of Museum Island, just off Un- of Athena’s Temple at Pergamum. The India. The museum is also home of the of the 81-year old Pergamon Museum, space is full of Hellenistic architectural “Aleppo Room”: a small Muslim banquet ter den Linden. The museum was built Also Sprach Zarathustra pounds steadily during the reign of the Prussian king marvels: Ionic and Doric columns tower hall painted with intricate, aureate de- louder in your head. The two stoic, grey over a rare floor mosaic. To the left a signs on a rich, vermillion background- Friedrich Wilhelm IV by Ignaz Maria von arms of the building jut straight out into Olfers and Friedrich August Stulers. The door leads into the newest museum it cannot be missed. the Spree and act simultaneously as about Baron Max von Oppenheim- Ger- museum was built between 1841 and bulwarks against the outside world all 1859. It was badly damaged by the air man diplomat and explorer- and his Pack for an odyssey. And as Baron von the while funnelling visitors into its ten- excavation of the legendary Tell Halaf. Oppenheim said, “Mut hoch!” (Courage bombings during the Second World War ebrous maw. It is strongly urged to buy and underwent renovation from 2003 high!), for the craven will not be reward- tickets in advance to bypass the ever- On the other side of the altar lies a ed with the wealth and splendour of not by British architect David Chipperfield. present queue. The best option is to get The museum features exhibitions on similar room for Roman construction. one, but four distinct worlds entombed a special Berlin WelcomeCard from the Its looming two-storey is the within the Pergamon’s immense and Ancient Egypt, Orient and Scandinavian tourist office that includes all museums art and the Antiquity. It also includes a grand market gate of Miletus. Walk lifeless husk. And when you emerge a on the island and free public transport through its portico and emerge from lifetime later, you will understand: section on the city of Troy, an art collec- as far afield as Potsdam. tion from the Greek city Armana and an the cobalt blue Ishtar Gate onto the exhibition on the rival armies of Rome Procession Way of Babylon: welcome to “This is not just a museum.” This. Is. Swallowed inside this incredible gestalt the Museum of the Ancient Near East. Pergamon! (C. Thompson) and Athens. by architect Alfred Messel reside four The exhibition on Ancient Egypt is the entire museums. With the free audio most extensive covering the period guide in hand, you enter the Collec- from 3000 BC to 150 BC. It features well- tion of Classical Antiquities- Greek and preserved statues of the great Pharaohs, Roman architecture. Standing in front sarcophagi, offering chambers, reliefs of the great Altar of Pergamum (170BC), of landscapes. There are traditional which lends the museum its name and Egyptian sculptures which represented whose 115-foot wide western front has the human anatomy as well as seated been reconstructed to its former glory, figures symbolising immortality. you can either choose a very superficial The museum is a perfect place for 30-min tour or key in individual num- archaeology lovers and its artefacts bers written next to displays throughout are well documented. Ideally, plan an the whole complex. But heed this warn- whole afternoon to visit the museum. ing: The Pergamon can just as easily (M.Pochard)

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German Historical Museum / Deutsches New Gaurd House / Neue Historisches Museum Wache

Unter den Linden 2 Unter den Linden 4 i Mitte Mitte i U-bahn: Französische Straße S-bahn / U-bahn: Friedrichstraße Opening Times: Oct-Apr: 10:00am-6:00pm (Tue. – Opening Times: 10am - 6pm Sun.), May-Sep: 10:00am-7:00pm (Tue. – Sun.) The Neue Wache, located directly next Chronicling 2,000 years of rich history in an archi- to the Deutsches Historical Museum on tecturally stunning location, this museum should Unter den Linden, is a hauntingly beauti- be given priority position in the itinerary of any ful memorial dedicated to the victims of Berlin visitor looking to delve into Germany’s past. oppression, war and tyranny. The site was The exhibitions begin when the Romans settled in originally a guardhouse for the Crown Germanic territory in 100 B.C. and cover defining Prince of Prussia, strategically placed to periods including the Reformation, the World Wars overlook the arsenal stock next door, and and division into East and West, before finishing has been used as a war memorial since with the aftermath of reunification in the 1990s. 1931. The interior of the memorial is one The beautiful Baroque (armoury) houses enormous space, constructed of lifeless the permanent exhibition ‘German History in Im- grey stones and a single ceiling aperture ages and Artefacts’, while the adjacent exhibition which highlights the striking centerpiece, hall, designed by renowned American-Chinese ar- an enlarged version of Käthe Kollwitz’ chitect I.M. Pei, is home to a number of temporary sculpture, “Mother With Her Dead Son.” exhibitions. The ornate facade of Unter den Lin- The sounds of the streets are left behind den’s oldest building coupled with Pei’s distinctive as you enter into this space, compelling steel and glass structure creates a striking fusion the viewer to really take a moment to ob- between old and new, reflecting the comprehen- serve, to study the way the sun’s spotlight sive scope of the museum itself. might accentuate the sculpture’s features or, depending on your luck, mark the The exhibition covers a vast 8,000 square metres, somber echo of rain falling through the so it is advisable to plan your visit in advance. If opening. While the Neue Wache is a quick time is not of the essence, however, set aside a stop, it is a unique and definite must-see good three hours or more and indulge yourself by of Berlin’s many memorials. (J.Myung) wandering at a leisurely pace through the entire absorbing narrative. Alternatively, the museum offers several guided tours, including daily 90 min- ute overview tour and 60 minute epochal tours, which cover individual historical periods. Expan- sive and informative, this fascinating museum is well worth its modest €6 ticket price. (S. Gleeson)

CTR July Master Final.indd 45-46 7/29/11 10:28 PM / Berliner Dom

Am Lustgarten Mitte i U-bahn / S-bahn: Hackescher / Friedrichstraβe Opening Times: 9:00am - 8:00pm Price: Student: €6. Adult: €8 with audio tour Student: €4. Adult: €6 without audio tour Under 14’s free www.berlinerdom.de

Already captivating from the outside, the Berliner Dom will have your undi- vided attention as soon as you walk through its doors. As you enter, your eyes will dart around the breathtaking interior and try to absorb the intricate details of the white marble altar and the stunning ceiling. Gold detailing is woven throughout the room, and grand sculptures tower above you. It’s hard to imag- ine something more mesmerising!

However impressed you are at this stage, it is the ascent up the 270 steps that will lead you to the cathedral’s true highlight: At the top is a stunning view of the city that allows you to spot several famous Berlin landmarks such as the TV Tower, Museum Island and the River Spree among many others.

Of course, what comes up must come down eventually. When going down again, make sure to visit the crypt. You will be greeted by an eerie cold as you meander through the sarcophagi of the Brandenburg-Prussian Royal Family, some of which date back five-hundred years. Most impressive, are the tombs of Frederick I and his queen, Sophie Charlotte, which lie grandly amongst the tombs of their children and grandchildren.

The Berliner Dom is an experience not to be missed whilst in the city however, be sure to check service times before visiting, as this can disrupt the walk up to the dome. (J. Rendall)

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Bode Museum Overlooking the River Spree on Museum As you saunter down aisles lined with obvious. Such examples include “This Island, the 100 year old Bode Museum Bodestraße 1-3 sculptures dating back as far as Roman piece is in the middle of the room and i houses Byzantine Art and boasts a huge Mitte Europe, you are slightly intrigued as to not against a wall”. Despite this, the sculpture and coin collection span- Opening Times: 10:00am – 6:00pm what gems this museum holds. How- coin and medal collection located on ning three floors. Although on first (Fri. – Wed.), 10:00am – 10:00pm (Thu.) ever, navigating around the museum is the second floor is an intriguing look at impression the Bode impresses with its Price: Student: €4. Adult: € 8 a task in itself, as the layout is incredibly currency throughout Europe’s history, grand foyer covered in marble flooring U-bahn: Friedrichstraße S-bahn: Hack- confusing, resulting in a monotonous but again, once you’ve seen one room, and towering marble pillars, what lies escher Markt/Friedrichstraße experience. This is encouraged by an you’ve pretty much seen it all. behind its doors is unfortunately less www.museumsinsel-berlin.de audio guide (which is included in the The Bode Museum is not the most inspiring. entrance fee) that continues to state the exciting of museums, but anyone that perhaps has a three day museum pass may as well get their money’s worth and take a visit. However, if you don’t, Berlin plays host to many other museums that are better value for money and are more pleasing to the eye and the mind. (J.Rendall)

CTR July Master Final.indd 49-50 7/29/11 10:28 PM Holocaust-Mahnmal Hitler’s Bunker / Führurbunker

for just one person to walk through, Cora-Berliner-Straße 1 want to make this site a possible place symbolising the solitude and isolation Off Wilhelmstraße, 200m from Mitte i i of worship. You could even argue that that the Jewish victims were forced to Holocaust Memorial U-bahn / S-bahn: Brandenburger Tor having cars drive over Hitler’s final place endure. This landmark undoubtedly Mitte www.stiftung-denkmal.de of death is more than appropriate! (C. captures the sorrow felt universally U-bahn: Mohrenstrße Preusse) Built to memorialize a chapter in his- for those involved in one of mankind’s worst acts. If you’re looking to prepare yourself for tory that many wish never existed, thif the Holocaust Memorial or the Topogra- memorial commemorates the persecu- The site requires no admission fee or phy of Terror, how about heading over tion and murder of more than six million to Hitler’s bunker just off Wilhelmstraße. jews by the Nazis. queueing, and is open to the public at all times. There is also an informa- This now car park backed by residential buildings is where Hilter’s chancellery Located south of the Brandenburg Gate, tion kiosk available for further details on the history of this landmark. Do not used to be till the allies tore it down. Just the site is roughly 19,000 square meters beneath is where Hitler’s bunker, the in size and layered with over 2000 con- be discouraged by the sombre nature of the Holocaust-Mahnmal memorial. Führerbunker was located. Hitler spent crete slabs, each with their own individ- his last days here before he and his new ual proportions. Completed in 2004 by This integral part of Berlin’s identity is a quintessential experience, offering a bride, Eva Braun, committed suicide. architect Peter Eisenman at a cost of al- Just above Hitler’s hide out was his rose most €24m, the design conjures feelings journey through history with powerful emotions and memories that will last a garden as well as where his body was of uneasiness and confusion. The spaces cremated. Unfortunately there are no lifetime. (P.Ellis) between the slabs were intentionally signs leading to this area and it is not constructed to be wide enough a known tourist destination due to the fact that the German authorities do not 51 Bears, Beers and Bikes A Young Person’s Guide to Berlin 52

CTR July Master Final.indd 51-52 7/29/11 10:28 PM Charlottenburg Palace / items blanketing the walls according to size, shape and purpose. While photog- raphy is permitted, you must purchase a 3€ photo permit beforehand or else Spandauer Damm 20-24 i the guards will puff their chests and get Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf in the way. Charlottenburg Palace is an U-bahn: Richard-Wagner-Platz S-bahn: extravagant testimony to the grandeur Jungfernheide of the Prussian empire and is well worth Opening Times: 10am - 6pm (Tue. – a visit, especially for those on a tight Sun.) schedule. (J. Myung) (Apr. – Oct.); 10am - 5pm (Tue. – Sun.) (Nov. – Mar.) Brandenburger Tor Price: (Old Palace) €8 - €12; (New Wing) €5 - €6 www.spsg.de Pariser Platz Mitte i For those of you who cannot afford a U-bahn / S-bahn: Brandenburger Tor whole day out in Potsdam Palace (or simply cannot be bothered with the Standing proudly at the top of Unter hour long journey), try a visit to Char- den Linden, the Brandenburg Gate has lottenburg Palace, an equally opulent been a key Berlin landmark since its estate just a stone’s throw away from completion in 1791. Commissioned by Berlin’s central district, Mitte. The palace Friedrich Wilhelm II of Prussia as a sym- was inaugurated in 1699 and originally bol for peace, the Gate was designed served as the summer residence of by Karl Gotthard Langhans and inspired Sophie Charlotte, wife of the first King of by the Acropolis in Athens. The Gate’s Prussia, Friedrich III. Since then, the pal- twelve classical columns give an impres- ace has expanded to include an elabo- sion of strength and solidity and are rate Baroque garden mimicking those of crowned by the triumphant Quadriga Versailles, as well as several wings each – a four-horse chariot driven by Victo- designed to meet the unique tastes ria, the Roman goddess of victory. This of its ruling Prussian monarch. While sculpture, designed by Johann Gottfried the building itself was not immune to Schadow, has had an eventful history. the mayhem of the Second World War, After his victory over the Prussians in many of the rooms have still retained 1806, Napoleon took it to Paris, where it their exquisite features, including the remained until its rescue and return to stunning 18th century stucco and relief Germany in 1815. The statue was almost work. completely destroyed in World War II, and in 1958 was replaced with a replica; The well-structured tour leaves room for the statue you see today. The sole origi- visitors to linger and soak in the beauty nal surviving horse’s head can be seen of each space, including the breath- in the Märkisches Museum. taking Porcelain Cabinet, Friedrich’s ostentatious display of 2,700 porcelain The Brandenburg Gate is now the most potent symbol for Germany’s separation

A Young Person’s Guide to Berlin 54

CTR July Master Final.indd 53-54 7/29/11 10:28 PM Bebelplatz Although not as overtly dramatic or eye-catching as many other holocaust- related memorials, this is a striking Unter den Linden reminder of the intolerance and bar- Mitte i barity that characterized Nazi regimes. U-bahn: Französische Straβe Plaques nearby support the memorial’s Price: 1.00 - 20.00€ (estimated top end relevance, bearing the words: ‘Dort, wo book price) man Bücher verbrennt, verbrennt man am Ende auch Menschen’ (where one Berlin’s esteemed Humboldt University burns books, one ultimately burns peo- combines with the first independent ple), haunting lines by German-Jewish State Opera House and the azure dome author, Heinrich Heine. of St. Hedwig’s Cathedral to frame the atmospheric square known as Bebel- Crossing Unter den Linden, the com- platz, which bore witness to a shock- memoration is more interactive. Pres- ing Nazi attempt to ‘cleanse’ literature. tigious Humboldt University has gained The Nazis made their dark statement its respected reputation for producing of book-burning and authoritarianism the masterful minds of 29 Nobel Prize on May 10th 1933 amid the shadows of winners but furthermore through its these iconic structures. In addition to a celebrated daily book market. The lure visit being worthwhile purely for stun- of bustling stalls is irresistible, making ning, sandy-coloured architecture and a visit essential. Hundreds of books rest central location, gracing Mitte’s prestig- on dozens of tables, waiting for pro- ious Unter den Linden, the square en- spective readers: works by Marx, Freud deavours to vindicate its history through and even Mickey Mouse are among the an intriguing memorial from 1995 by finds you will unearth here. It is a place Micha Ullman. where the students, the bookish and those just keen to explore can unite. Within Bebelplatz’s cobbles, a small, It is plausible to forget what the book square window reveals a curious site: market stands to remember, and that an empty, underground library. This a burning pyre rose above what is now understated commemoration is of the a chic, artistic tribute. Yet Bebelplatz’s when 20,000+ books monument and stalls are evidence that taken from the adjacent University commemoration need not be a lavish library were burned, under orders from statue, rather, the square embraces Propaganda Minister Josef Goebbles, minimalistic design and purchasing for reasons such as content and author’s books encourages you to remember in ethnicity or political/sexual orientation. Its floor-to-ceiling, simple shelves have a conscious and lasting way. (A.Stanton, space for every book burnt. The monu- J.Hyndman, S.Gleeson) and unification; epitomising not only restored Gate is the quietly impressive ment cuts an eerie image, best seen in this dark period of German history, but and atmospheric Raum der Stille: a silent dusky conditions to minimise reflection also its celebrated end. room for nondenominational medita- on its surface, but also to emphasise To the north wing of the recently tion. (S. Gleeson) dramatic effect if you are so inclined!

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The Reichstag

Platz der Republik, 1 Mitte i U-bahn: Bundestag, Brandenburg Tor Opening times (dome only): Daily 8:00am- 11:00pm Price: Free www.bundestag.de

The Reichstag stands proudly in the city centre as a symbol of German democracy. Home of the Ger- man government, it is situated next to Friedrich Ebert Platz, a short walk away from Brandenburg Tor U-Bahn.

The statement glass dome- built by Lord Norman Foster- glistens at the top of the building, nicely juxtaposing with the grand architecture of the structure below, meaning the Reichstag reflects the importance of the people who walk through its doors on a day to day basis.

Now the centre of German politics, the Reich- stag was badly damaged by Allied bombing in the Second World War, which led to it having no clear function when the city was divided. There- fore it remained useless until 1955 when it was restored. The celebration for took place below the Reichstag in 1990. Common sites outside the building include the blacked out limousines of parliamentary officials going about their daily work, which only compliments the im- portance and grandeur of the building.

Appointments to visit the dome at the top of the Reichstag can be made via e-mail, and can vouch for groups of up to fifty people, but due to popular demand it’s best to do this as early as possible dur- ing your trip to Berlin. (J.Rendall)

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Potsdamer Platz alike quickly identified the square as cently unveiled Stars’ , Berlin’s one of the hottest, most sought after equivalent to Hollywood Boulevard. 7 Alte Potsdamer Straße spaces in Berlin. Under the supervision Two multiplex cinemas also serve as the Mitte i of a Munich-based architectural firm, principle venues for the annual Berlinale, U-bahn / S-bahn: Potsdamer Platz Himmler & Settler, the lot became the one of the most renowned film festivals www.potsdamerplatz.de/en largest construction site in Europe be- in the world. Additionally, if you are look- tween 1993-1998. The project became ing for a panoramic view with a touch of What Times Square is to New York City a close collaboration between the city history, check out the open-air exhibi- and Champs-Elysées to Paris, Pots- of Berlin, corporate investors such as tion in the Kollhoff Tower on Potsdamer damer Platz was once to Berlin. World- Sony and Daimler, and the creative Platz 1 (Open daily 10 am-8pm). Even famous restaurants, hotels and depart- power of renowned architects such as though Potsdamer Platz may not have a ment stores used to line this busy plaza Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers. One remarkable landmark or physical façade back in the 1920s, rendering it one of of the most innovative and admired to show for it, its present commercial the liveliest hubs of continental Europe. buildings of the project is the Sony success and fascinating history combine Today, the square is a site of bold archi- Centre by Helmut Jahn, a stunning to make it the genuine heart of Berlin. tectural ventures as well as a symbol of glass-and-steel edifice with a soaring (J. Myung) German unification. And while it lacks conical roof. the iconic distinction of its heyday, the plaza still maintains an important part Nowadays, the plaza attracts thousands of Berlin’s history, which is one of the of visitors a day, most of whom will main reasons it is still worth visiting find their way to the Arkadenmega today. mall, the Spielbank Casino or the re-

Potsdamer Platz is located a kilometre south of the Brandenburg Gate. In the years before WWII, the city of Berlin revolved around it. Its first rail station opened here, government officials and embassies set up shop nearby, and Europe’s first electric traffic light went alight here in 1924. However, the five tumultuous years of WWII reduced the plaza to rubble and its future for rejuvenation remained bleak up until the Cold War. The property was then split in half to serve as a “death-strip”in the East – the dangerous strip of land between the inner and outer barriers of the Berlin Wall – the world’s ultimate manifestation of East and West divi- sion. When the Wall finally came down in 1989, architects and city planners

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Sony Center

Kemperplatz, 1 Mitte i U-bahn / S-bahn: Potsdamer Platz http://www.sonycenter.de

Located in classy Potsdamer Platz, the houses a mixture of shops, res- taurants, luxury apartments, conference rooms and a cinema. The 103 metre tall, glass office tower floods light into the complex allowing visitors to bask in a natural atmosphere all year round without having to brave the ele- ments. The concept, dreamt up by architect Helmut Jahn, really impresses when visitors step inside the centre and observe the spectacular roof design. Made from 105 tons of safety glass, the roof spirals around the room making the Sony Center an internationally recognised Berlin landmark and not just an entertainment com- plex. Building work on the complex started in 1998 and was opened with a special inauguration festival in 2000, which was attended by politicians and people from the field of business and culture. Since then, the centre plays host to up to eight million visitors a year. (J.Rendall)

PanoramaPunkt im Kollhoff Tower

Potsdamer Platz 11 Mitte i U-Bahn / S-Bahn : Potsdamer Platz Opening Times: 10am – 8pm (Mon. – Sun.) Students: €4.00. Adults: €5.50 www.panoramapunkt.de/en

For a fantastic panoramic view of the city, PanoramaPunkt is one of the best places offering this delight. Take in famous landmarks at a great height, such as the Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag, the Holocaust Memorial and many others. Feel your ears pop on the way to the top as you ride Europe’s fastest elevator, taking you to the top floors in a matter of seconds, however despite being Europe’s fastest elevator, expect to wait for the ride so be wary if there are some large crowds. An exhibition inside offers you a fascinating look at both past and present Potsdamer Platz, the transformation of a quiet green into a pulsing heart the Berlin. The cafe offers somewhat expensive drinks and snacks, and with the various food outlets in Potsdamer Platz, it may be best to avoid it. At a price of €4.00 you can see amazing views of the city but, with the Reichstag offering spectacular views of the city too, it may be better to choose one or the other if you are on a strict budget. (J.Tomlinson)

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CTR July Master Final.indd 61-62 7/29/11 10:29 PM The Olympic Stadium / Berlin

Olympischer Platz 3 U-bahn: Olympia Stadion i Price: €8 for the English guided tour (Consult website for dates and times) www.olympiastadion-berlin.de

Few sporting arenas in the world can boast anything like the amount of his- tory of the Olympic Stadium in Berlin. Originally built for the tainted Olym- pics of 1936 (the Nazi regime sought to use the games as a propaganda tool), the stadium has played host to a number of sports greatest moments. This is where American athlete Jesse Owens embarrassed the Führer by powering to four track and field gold medals in the ’36 Olympics, where Zi- nidine Zidane’s glorious career came to an end with an infamous head butt in the World Cup Final of 2006 and where Usain Bolt broke his own record for the fastest 100m of all time in the 2009 World Athletics Championships.

Designed by German architect Werner March, the arena was built with a capacity of 110,000 and was the biggest in the world until 1950 when the Maracana in Brazil was opened. It was most recently renovated between May 2000 and August 2004 at a cost of €242 million.

Housing the iconic Olympic Gates, the Olympic Bell Tower (destroyed dur- ing World War II and rebuilt in 1962) and the Marathon Gate - the stadium features some of Berlin’s most famous architectural landmarks.

English tours can be sporadic so check the website before heading over to avoid disappointment. Guides are well informed but not the friendliest. This is a tour which takes place at a near break neck speed, so if you have any mobility issues then make them clear early-on or risk being lost somewhere in the stadium’s monumental interior. The hour-long tour gives visitors a sense of the arena’s history and importance, but would be no worse for be- ing half an hour longer.

If a tour isn’t for you, then try and catch a football match. The stadium hosts Hertha Berlin (Berlin’s premier fussball club) and, compared to the English Premier League, prices are not too extravagant.

Or, to really maximise your time at this sporting mecca, bring a towel and your swimming kit for a few lengths in the pool used in the ‘36 Olympics. The surrounding stands are in a state of disrepair and the city is looking for private investors to maintain its upkeep, so grab your chance to swim in the shadows of this magnificent sporting arena while you still can.

(J. Hawkins and I. Woodcock) A Young Person’s Guide to Berlin 64

CTR July Master Final.indd 63-64 7/29/11 10:29 PM museums, memorials and sights Deutscher Dom Exhibition: St. Hedwigs Cathedral / Sankt Anti-War Museum Milestones, Setbacks, Sidetracks Hedwigs Kathedrale The museum promotes peace through Brusseler Straße 21 workshops involving schools and pacific i groups. It features a permanent exhibi- 1 Behrenstraße 39 Mitte i i Opening Times: 4:00pm – 8:00pm (Mon. tion on World War II which includes his- Mitte Mitte tory on the persecution of Jews and the U-bahn: Stadtmitte U-bahn: Franzisösche Straße – Sun.) U-bahn: Amrumer Straße destruction of Hiroshima and Nagasaki. www.bundestag.de/kulturundg- Opening Times: 11:00am – 5:30pm There are features on freedom fighters eschichte/ausstellungen/wege (Mon. – Fri),11:00am – 6:30pm (Sat) Located on Brüsseler Strasse, this unu- such as Mahatmata Gandhi, Martin Lu- sual museum is dedicated to war victims ther King and other famous figures who Located at the southern end of what is Silence is golden, or in St. Hedwigs have contributed to promoting peace. often called the most beautiful square Cathedral, a necessity. Accidental clam- and to peace. The first Anti-War Muse- um was created in 1925 by Ernst Frie- You can find information on today’s in Berlin, this permanent exhibition is ouring, such as tripping or deep-throat world wars and crisis which includes housed in the copper-domed Deutscher coughing, will leave your cheeks erubes- drich, a war opponent and anti-fascist. Friedrich first exhibited war material on newspaper cuts, various photos and a Dom (German Cathedral), one of the cent with shame and your shoulders map of the locations of wars. three main buildings on Gendarmen- bent towards your ears after the (even the First World War which is still part of markt. louder) hushing sounds that come from the museum. In 1933 the museum was taken over by the Nazis but Friedrich An authentic air bomb shelter is also the guide posted at the top of the stairs. part of the exhibition. It offers an intriguing journey through Once dignity is reclaimed, however, you managed to save most of the exhibits. He then fled to Belgium and established the history of German parliamentary de- will be impressed by the colossal, newly The museum is not part of the main and mocracy. The exhibition moves chrono- reconstructed cathedral, containing an a second Anti-War Museum but it was also destroyed. The museum as it exists popular museums of Berlin but if you logically from the period between 1871 underground level and dutifully respect- want to discover a place off the beaten and 1918 on the church’s first floor, to ful prayer areas. Bernhard Lichtenberg, a today was set up in 1982 by Tommy Spree, Ernst Friedrich’s grandson. tracks then it is definitely worth visiting modern democracy on the fifth. Colour- brave and defiant priest, preached publi- it. (M.Pochard) ful stained glass windows and exposed cally here for the Jews after the 1931 brickwork make for an atmospheric walk Kristallnacht pogroms. The Nazis quickly up the winding staircases as you move jailed him; Lichtenberg died on his way from one floor of the exhibition to the to Dachau, but his remains and spirit next. Inside the dome itself, visitors can of decency and loyalty are contained see a separate exhibition on the history in a crypt in this cathedral. With less of the church itself and Gendarmen- stained glass windows than you might markt as a whole. expect of a Roman Catholic Cathedral, It is easy to lose yourself here, not only in St. Hedwigs’ interior is dominated by the the exhibits but also quite literally, as the overwhelmingly massive wooden dome. spiral stairs and circular layout of the ex- These renovations on the originally con- hibition can sometimes become confus- structed 1773 cathedral came after the ing. Luckily, guided tours are offered (in eleven years of restoration (1952-1963) German) every half an hour, with tours in that were necessary due to the extensive English and French available on request. damage of the Second World War. For a mere 50 cents, you can light a miniature This is an enjoyable and well-document- candle (provided) in one of the vari- ed insight into German politics and ous chapels. For another 50 cents, you would be an ideal accompaniment to a can pay the same respect in a different visit to the Reichstag. (S. Gleeson) room. (R. Cohen) 65 Bears, Beers and Bikes

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Jewish Museum Berlin / Jüdis- Returning inside, you join the intersect- ing Axis of Holocaust, a sombre recount ches Museum Berlin of the atrocities committed throughout WWII. Antique Jewish possessions such Lindenstraße 9-14 i as silver rings and keys are displayed Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg in a similar fashion, ending at another U-bahn: Hallesches Tor. / S-bahn: Anhal- architectural feat, The Holocaust Tower. ter Bahnhof Also known as The Voided Void, this Opening Times: 10:00am – 10:00pm prodigious commemorative space for (Mon), 10:00am – 8:00pm (Tue. - Sun.) victims of the Holocaust evokes feelings Price: Student: €2.50. Adult: €5.00 of isolation, allowing only a glimmer of www.jmberlin.de light to struggle through a slight gap in the ceiling. Finally, the Axis of Continuity After descending to the labyrinthine serves as an entrance to the main bulk of lower levels of the Jewish Museum on the museum – detailing over 2000 years Lindenstraße, you’re greeted by a quote of Jewish religion, culture and lifestyle. from the museum’s Polish architect Daniel Libeskind: “What is important The sheer amount of information on is the experience you get from it. The offer is staggering, with not one facet of interpretation is open.” This sentiment Jewish history discarded. From centu- echoes throughout the three perspec- ries old texts and sculptures to antique tive distorting axes, which form the accounting and medical equipment. introduction to the exhibition by com- If something holds any Jewish sig- memorating Jewish hardships during nificance, you’ll find it presented and the Second World War. documented here with great detail. Interactive displays and slick integration Memorial to Homosexuals Per- group. Located in the southern part of Emerging onto the Axis of Exile, post- of technology such as mini movie thea- the Tiergarten rests a monument that cards and letters from Jewish citizens tres provide a welcome change of pace secuted under Nazism / Denk- pays tribute to the more than 50,000 who fled the Nazi regime are displayed to staring glassy-eyed at static notices. mal für die im Nationalsozialis- homosexuals that were persecuted with ethereal luminosity in a dense black Audio guides are also available for €3. If mus verfolgten Homosexuellen under Nazism. In May of 2008, Berlin’s case spanning the length of the corridor. you’re looking for a bite to eat before or gay mayor, Klaus Wowereit, opened this Following this leads you to The Garden after the exhibition, the museum restau- memorial; a concrete cube standing 100m from the Holocaust of Exile, a vertigo inducing design with rant Liebermanns offers a relaxed setting over ten feet tall with a small window Memorial off Ebertstraße i 49 tilted columns on a sloped cobble in which to enjoy adaptations of tradi- through which you can see a short video Mitte surface. This physically manifests the tional Jewish cuisine. of two men kissing; an act that was U-bahn: Potsdammer Platz disorientation felt by the Jewish popu- cause for death during Hitler’s reign. The www.stiftung-denkmal.de/en/ lation having to abandon their homes From the past to the present, this purpose of this is not only to recognise homosexualmemorial and in some cases loved ones for fear of museum offers an insight into how the how homosexuals were wronged but to persecution. Jewish people have dealt with years of also represent that any injustice towards While most known commemorations of persecution and hardships, but more the gay and lesbian community will no the Holocaust are dedicated to Jewish importantly, it is a successful celebration longer be tolerated. Unfortunately, there victims, there is a discreet memorial of the Judaic faith. (P. Ellis) is no clear sign in front of this memorial worth visiting in honour of another

67 Bears, Beers and Bikes A Young Person’s Guide to Berlin 68

CTR July Master Final.indd 67-68 7/29/11 10:29 PM Gedenkstätte Stille Helden / The Kennedys Memorial to Silent Heroes Pariser Platz 4a i Rosenthaler Straße 39 Mitte Mitte i U-Bahn: Brandenburg Tor S-bahn: Hackescher Markt Opening Times: 10:00am – 6:00pm Opening Times: 10:00am – 8:00pm (Mon. - Sun.) (Mon. – Sun.) Price: €7.00 www.gedenkstaette-stille-helden.de The Kennedys is small unique museum For once, an uplifting Berlin memorial. documenting the rise of the Kennedy Located just inside the alleyway of Haus family in America, with a particular Schwarzenberg, climb the stairs to the focus on John F. Kennedy and his first floor and enter a room filled with… foreign policy, as well as the life of his almost nothing. There is the silence: a wife Jackie Kennedy. The museum dedication to those in Germany who exhibits photographs of the Kennedy risked their own lives in order to save family that are lined along the walls of Jews from Nazi persecution. There is the sleek museum, demonstrating the also a boardroom table with 11 inset, rise of the family chronologically. Also, interactive screens. You can spend over on display objects such as Jackie Ken- and arguably, this concrete cube does ing an enduring message about victory nedy’s pill box hat and John F. Kenne- not give sufficient acknowledgment to and sacrifice. an hour reading how it took roughly ten Germans to help one persecuted dy’s hand written speeches are among the men and woman who were victim- Two tranquil avenues lead visitors some of the artifacts that are cleanly ized for their sexuality. (C. Preusse) first to a statue of the grieving Mother Jew. They had to come up with plans so brilliant to help them avoid capture displayed throughout the museum. Homeland, weeping for her fallen Soviet A large emphasis is put on JFK’s visit sons. As you then walk up the central that they would have stumped even Soviet War Memorial/ Col. Landa. to Berlin after the construction of the boulevard lined with weeping birches, Berlin Wall, and a video of his speech Sowjetisches Ehrenmal your view is framed by two kneeling The second floor features 10 wooden including the famous line “ich bin ein Soviet soldiers, while another even Berliner” can be viewed in this mu- 96a Puschkin Allee cenotaphs reminiscent of the stone larger soldier looms on the horizon. This seum. Conveniently located near the Treptow-Köpenick i steles at Berlin’s Holocaust Memorial. statue straddles a hilltop mausoleum Brandenburg Gate and the American S-bahn: Treptower Park and represents ultimate Soviet victory, Each pillar features a written story and film documentary of someone who Embassy, the museum is great for any a swastika crushed beneath his foot as American history buff looking to con- May 1945: the over, helped- such as Oskar Schindler- or was he raises his sword triumphantly in the nect American roots to international National Socialism finally shattered, the helped, along with a built-in display- air. Below you however, a more sombre soil. (A. Perkins) Soviet army triumphant. Yet this was view awaits; in five mass graves 7,000 case of some of their personal effects. A achieved at a monumental human cost, Soviet dead are laid peacefully at rest. side room houses the digital archives of with 80,000 Soviet soldiers alone perish- This contrast sums up the Soviet War every “Silent Hero.” Scrolling down the ing. To commemorate this victory and Memorial, a patriotic celebration of list of endless names on the computer the lives of those lost in doing so, the victory juxtaposed with reverent remem- screen, each with their own biography Soviet authorities erected three memori- brance of the dead. Whether it achieves and photos, the memorial leaves you als around Berlin. The most immense both of these objectives nowadays is with the sobering thought that com- of these is found in Treptower Park. Its questionable, but its grand architectural passion is most noticed in times of war. monumental visual language attempts statements mean that it’s still a worth- (C. Thompson) to honour the dead whilst also convey- while visit. (R. Adams) 69 Bears, Beers and Bikes A Young Person’s Guide to Berlin 70

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Stasi. The exhibition on the daily lives, whether it shows them at- Germany, including its economy and tending masse on a Sunday or a couple the State itself, the work of the Stasi and GDR’s State Security simply going on a walk through their the lives of ordinary citizens. Touch and neighbourhood. You almost feel intru- smell the beans of substitute coffee Zimmerstraβe, 90/91 sive viewing the footage which sends a mixes, open a wardrobe to find the Mitte i shiver up the spine. very latest in government-approved U-Bahn: Kochstrasse/Stadtmitte The exhibition is simple in style, but fashion trends, lift flaps and doors to Opening Times: Mon-Sat 10:00am- reveal cabinets filled with everyday 6:00pm comes to life when you scratch beneath objects. Climb into the cramped front Price: Free the surface and see for yourself what seat of a Trabi and start the engine, or www.bstu.bund.de really happened on the other side of the luxuriate in the back of a State car. Sit wall. (J.Rendall) in an interrogation room and listen to Situated round the corner from busy recorded interviews, or try on a headset tourist hotspot Checkpoint Charlie lies DDR Museum of Stasi surveillance equipment. Don the unofficial collaborators. These unofficial the , a wonderfully simple uniform of a DDR soldier, or languish in informants were often normal people and fitting exhibition to those moni- Karl-Liebknecht-Straße 1 a dingy prison cell. This is time travel, ex- who were manipulated into spying on tored and influenced by the Ministry for Mitte i cept instead of a Flux Capacitor, all you their colleagues, family and friends. The State Security. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt need is €4. (S.Gleeson) climate of fear the Stasi created left the Opening Times: 10am – 10pm (Mon. – citizens of the GDR in a constant state of The exhibition gives an insight into state Sun.), Berlin-Hohenschönhausen Stasi suspicion and distrust. security in East Berlin by firstly detailing 10am – 8pm (Sat.) Prison / Gedenkstätte Berlin- the history of the MfS, and secondly por- Price: Student €4. Adult €6 The Stasi prison in Hohenschönhausen traying biographies of individuals kept Hohenschönhausen was one of 17 used to house people under surveillance. On first impression, The Museum who showed dissent towards the Com- the exhibition is slightly underwhelm- If you’re anything like me as a museum Gunslerstrasse 66 munist regime. During its period of use ing, but these biographies when armed goer, admonishments such as “no S-bahn: Landsberger Allee i it was not included on any maps and with the history are at times shocking. photography!” and “do not touch” will Price: Students: €2.50. Adults: €5 even people who lived within 100 yards Seeing the stories of individuals impris- be familiar; hilarious poses beside cave- http://en.stiftung-hsh.de/index.php of its walls did not know the atrocities oned and separated from their men or soldiers in full battle which unfolded within. In the time the families is truly haunting. regalia will have repeat- For almost 40 years, the official state prison was open, no prisoner ever suc- edly been spoiled by security service of - the cessfully escaped. The realisation stuffiness. No such Ministry of State Security (MfS) or Stasi of how recent nonsense here! – repressed and interfered with the lives The English speaking tour leaves daily the history is is This innovative of the people of the GDR. The Stasi’s at 2:30pm and takes you on a detailed brought home exhibition is motto translates as ‘Sword and Shield of journey through the prison’s grounds. when exploring fully interactive, the Party’ and they were used to enforce The tour starts in the submarine - base- the exhibition allowing you to the party line and punish those who ment cells and torture rooms used in and viewing the discover and ex- stood against their Communist dictates. the 1950s where up to 12 people were grainy but not plore for yourself. By the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989, forced to share one bed. You then move too unclear videos The museum they employed 91,000 people in full- on through the courtyard to the cells of monitored peo- offers a comprehen- time positions as well as 189,000 and numerous interrogation rooms ple going about their sive account of East used in later years and finally the tiger

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cages – small outdoor cages where the maker who exclusively hired blind and/ inmates could exercise. The open, sterile or deaf Jews to make brushes up to and corridors and barred windows leave visi- during WWIIto save them from the con- tors with a real sense of the nightmarish centration camps. Very little has been al- conditions prisoners were forced to exist tered in the war-era studio: some of the in. only modern additions are display-cases of personal items relating to plaques in Should you get a little lost looking for each of the five rooms. These plaques the prison then use caution: 20 years recount not only Weidt’s struggles, but after being closed down, residents who also include personal stories of selected live nearby (some of whom worked at families that were the recipients of his Founded in 1994, it is housed where Otto the prison) are still known to intention- help,à laGedenkstätteStilleHelden. The Weidt, the father of workshops for the ally mis-direct visiting tourists. final story ends at the preserved hidden blind, hid Jews during the Second World room that Weidt used tounsuccessfully War. The centre is mostly dedicated to the The 90-minute long tour is often led by hide a family at one point. life of Anne Frank, from her birth in 1929 former inmates but the tour guides are to her death in a concentration camp in also hugely knowledgeable. It is worth Sadly, unlike Oskar Schindler, Otto 1945. bearing in mind that it is very popular, Weidt failed to save most of his workers so arrive promptly or you may have to from the gas chambers. However,the The exhibition is entitled ‘Ann Frank, Then go through the harrowing buildings on emphasis of the museum is not on the and Now’ and features family childhood your own. tearful few success stories, but on the and school photos. There are extracts and attempt; on the inexhaustible energy of letters, including those exchanged be- This is a place you will be glad you one man to save human life at all cost. tween her mother Edith Frank and Gertrud visited and one you will be just as happy For this reason, the museum is at no Normann, a former family neighbour. you can leave again. (I. Woodcock) cost, including tours booked in advance: Every document features lines from Anne everyone should be allowed to freely Frank’s diary. There are also excerpts from Museum of Otto Weidt’s Work- see human compassion in the world. ‘Memoirs of Anne’, which was written by (C. Thompson) Otto Frank, Ann’s father - the only surving shop for the Blind / Museum family member. Blindenwerkstatt Otto Anne Frank Zentrum The exhibition also includes information retracing the rise of Hitler in the 1930’s, Rosenthaler Straße 39 Rosenthalter Strasse 39 the persecution of the Jews, the landing of Mitte i i Mitte the Americans in Normandy and the trials S-bahn: Hackescher Markt U-bahn: Weinmeisterstraße against the Nazis in 1945. Other interest- Opening Times: 10:00am – 8:00pm Opening Times: 10:00am – 6:00pm ing features include two installations (Mon. – Sun.) (Tue. – Sun.) where you can watch video narratives of www.museum-blindenwerkstatt.de young people living in Berlin sharing their The Ann Franck Zentrum is located on life experiences. There are also reviews of There was Schindler’s List. Now there Rosenthalter Strasse in Haus Schwarzen- Anne Frank’s diary and the original Anne are also Weidt’s employees. Housed in berg, a lively cultural centre which Frank’s diary is exhibited. Although it is off his former brush factory, the Otto Weidt includes the Otto Weidt Museum ,Cafes, the beaten track, the Anne Frank center is museum recounts the story of a brush- the gallerie Neurotitan and a cinema. well worth the walk. (M. Pochard)

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CTR July Master Final.indd 75-76 7/29/11 10:29 PM Art and Culture East Side Gallery

Address: Muhlenstrasse 1. i District: Kreuzberg U-bahn / S-bahn: WarschauerStraße www.eastsidegallery-berlin.de

The physical Iron Curtain that once di- vided Berlin was never expected to turn into an art gallery. Yet since its collapse over 20 years ago it has seen the largest remaining section of the Wall turned into an open-air exhibition known as the East Side Gallery. Painting began on the East Side Gallery in 1990 with each remaining section of the Wall re-designed by different artists to breathe new life into a dismal past. The blank canvas that once separated the city is now the largest outdoor gallery in the world. Over 100 differ- ent murals are on show here, including the famous Der Bruderkuss by Dmitri Vrubel, depicting the infamous kiss of peace between the former Soviet Leader, Leonid Brezhnev and the East German Prime Minister, Eric Honecker. Other powerful images of peace, hope and dream like sequences decorate the wall. The surrealist designs are particu- larly noteworthy, opening the street up to an abstract world of visual delights. The East Side Gallery is one of the most alternative monuments in the world and must be experienced on foot to be fully appreciated. Thousands of tourists visit the site daily, so start your walk in the early morning to marvel at an intriguing part of Berlin’s past. (A Stanton) 77 Bears, Beers and Bikes A Young Persons Guide to Berlin 78

CTR July Master Final.indd 77-78 7/29/11 10:29 PM Bahnhof / Museum fur Gegenwart

Invalidenstraße, 50-51 i Mitte U-bahn: Hauptbahnhof Opening Times 10am-6pm (Tues – Fri) 11am-8pm (Sat) 11am-6pm (Sun) Price: €12 Adult / €6 concession www.hamburgerbahnhof.de

The Hamburger Bahnhof was built in the mid 19th century as a train station but was soon closed down as it was found to be too small. It wasn’t until 1996 that this grand building was transformed and re-opened as a contemporary art museum.

Hamburger Bahnhof is home to some of the world’s most recognised artists of the 20th century such as Anselm Kiefer and Joseph Beuys. As impressive as the contents inside are, this building is just as striking on the outside. The main entrance leads you into what feels like a cathedral of modern art, with its elevated roof and quiet atmosphere. The high ceilings and milky white walls of the building’s interior give superior attention to the modern masterpieces. You may catch yourself gazing up at a ten-foot Andy Warhol portrait of Elvis, or captivated by a Beuy’s video installa- tion. Whatever your tastes, you are sure to find something that seizes your atten- tion.

Make sure to allow yourself plenty of time to explore as there are many different corridors of exhibitions and it is easy to get lost amongst the art. Exhibits change periodically so look out on their website for the most up-to-date displays. (C. Preusse)

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Shanghai skylines by night, large empty showing various techniques of art and Helmut Newton Museum / If you want more, the second and third sea horizons evoking peaceful feelings magazines featuring the artist’s works. floors house equally impressive special and monochrome portraits of exotic ani- which date from the 1950’s to the die Helmut Newton Museum mals are some of the themes lining the 1970’s. für fotografie exhibits on Newton and other important German photographers. The gift shop walls of this gallery. Each photograph is On the first floor, you’ll find lithographs

is also worth a peek, the mountains of hand-signed by the artist, and is avail- of Don Quichotte de la Mancha draw- Jebensstraße 2 i photography books will become an able in different sizes. The photographs ings of Tristan and Isod and works Charlottenburg easy time killer for the photo enthusiast. are not cheap; however, a visit is a must on German tale character Faust. The S-bahn / U-bahn: While this museum is a must-see for the for photography aficionados. (A.Perkins) second floor gathers Dali’s ‘so-called’ mythological collection which includes Zoologischer Garten artsy or the fashion fiend, those unfamil- The Dali Exhibition Opening Times: iar with Helmut Newton will be just as the goddess Venus, Adam and Eve and more. There are also works on Carmen, 10am - 6pm (Tue.– Sun.), impressed! (J.Myung) 10am - 10pm (Thu.), Memories of Casanova Alice in Wonder- Leipzig Straße 7 i Closed Mon. Lumas Art Gallery land. Mitte Price: Student: €4. Adult: €8 If you are overwhelmed by the works of U-bahn: Potsdamer Platz www.helmutnewton.com the godfather of Surrealism, then Dalis Opening Times: Fasanenstraße 73 i famous lip lounge, located on the lawns The New York Times dubbed him the 12:00pm – 8:00pm (Mon. – Fri.) Charlottenberg of the museum, offers a place to sit and “art photo playboy,” the International 10:00am – 8:00pm (Sat. – Sun.) U-bahn: Uhlandstraβe. reflect. The words ‘Le Surrealisme, c’est Herald Tribune christened him the “King Price: Student: €9. Adult: €11 S-bahn: Zoologischer Garten moi’ (I am Surrealism) inscribed over the of Kink” and even Stanley Kubrick and Opening Times: entrance over the museum provide you Roman Polanski have taken cues from 10:00am – 8:00pm,(Mon.-Sat.) For all those of you who love abstract with a little some more to think about. this visionary photographer. From the 1:00pm – 6:00pm (Sun.) art, the permanent exhibition on Sur- This excellent exhibition remains faithful provocative to the semi-erotic, Helmut realist artist Salvadore Dali’s work is a to Dali’s view of art which is accessible Newton’s photographs pioneered fash- Lumas art gallery’s expansive space must-see. It is located on Leipzig Strasse and enjoyable. (M. Porchard) ion photography as we know it today. showcases art photography available sitting close to Potsdamer Platz under- Lucky for you, Berlin is now home to a for purchase at high prices. The gal- ground station. vast collection of his work and personal lery was started up by Stefanie Harig Dali’s works are spread over two floors. memorabilia. and Marc Ullrich, who were inspired They feature 450 diversed lithographs, The Helmut Newton museum is located by their passion for art photography. photos, and sculptures. There are videos just a few strides from the Zoologischer Their collection consists of 150 different Garten U- and S-bahn station. Its per- prints, hand selected by an experienced manent display aims to glorify, with a curatorial board. Through the formation precise replica of his Monaco office to a of this gallery, Stefanie and Marc wished stunning floor-to-ceiling collage of his to make the market of art photography most iconic photographs. If you can’t more accessible to other enthusiasts, recall a Helmut photograph off the top and they have succeeded. Lumas’ of your head, think glamour and sado- many rooms showcase brightly colored masochism, noir and nude, or fine art pieces full of energetic motifs, as well as and sexual depravity. Ring a few bells? large detailed black and white photos.

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CTR July Master Final.indd 81-82 7/29/11 10:29 PM Art and Culture

Deutsche Guggengeim little on the small side a sleek and mod- The Berlinische Gallerie floor is particulary interesting for the ern exhibition space showcasing some works from the inter-war period focus-

of the best emerging talent, an essential sing on the Dadaist movement which Unter den Linden 13/15 i stop off for any art geek.(M.Burrows) Alte Jakobstrasse 124-128 i was against nationalism. There are Mitte Kreuzberg works from artists such as George Grosz U-Bahn: Friedrichstraße Modern Photography Gallery / U-bahn: Halleches Tor and Raul Haussmann. The exhibition Opening times: Galerie für Moderne Fotografie Opening Times: ends with more politically committed 10:00am – 8:00pm (Mon. – Sun.) 10:00am to 6:00pm (Wed. – Mon.) and rebellious artists from the 60’s and Price: €4 (Free on Mondays) Price: Student: €5. Adult: €8 70’s including photographer Michael www.deutsche-guggenheim-berlin. SchroderStaße 13 i Schmidt. de Mitte U-bahn: Rosenthaler Platz The Berlinische Gallerie is the Museum The gallery also offers art workshops One of the four institutes forming the Opening Times: of Modern Art, Photography and Archi- and regular film screenings. Overall, it prestigious Guggenheim Foundation, 12pm - 6pm (Thu. – Sat.) tecture. Located on Alte Jakobstrasse, offers a very diverse choice of art and is the Deutsche Guggenheim museum www.galeriefuermodernefoto close to the Judisches Museum, it is one a must see for all contemporary art lov- is based on the ground floor of the grafie.com of Berlin’s largest galleries. From out- ers. (M. Pochard) Deustche Bank building on Unter Den side, the gallery looks small but as you Linden. Tucked away on a small street in the enter you are struck by how spacious it center of Berlin is a quaint gallery where is. Opened in 1997 the museum has quick- you can find the most rare of photo- ly become a part of Berlin’s vast contem- graphs. If you wish to see a gallery that The first floor is dedicated to temporary porary culture, attracting over 140,000 disregards the norms this one is worth exhibitions on contemporary artists. In visitors every year. The 3,800 square a stop. Though you may find that the the past, it has hosted works from Rainer feet exhibition space was designed by Modern Photography Gallery is only Fetting, Wofvostell and Lajos Kassak. American architect Richard Gluckan, as big as your bedroom and the pho- The second floor features the Berlinische and usually houses three to four exhibi- tographs look as though a child has Gallerie’s own collection dating from tions every year showcasing a range of tacked them onto the wall, what makes 1880 to 1980, with different styles of art modern and contemporary art. this place most peculiar is their choice of ranging from Dadaism and Expression- Previous commisions of the museum contemporary photographs. These can ism to New Avant Garde. have included paintings by James be anything from a polaroid of a man Rosenquist and Jeff Koons, photos by eating ice cream to a group of topless The exhibition on the second floor be- Hiroshi Sugimoto and Jeff Wall as well women playing with couch cushions. gins with works from Conservatives and as large-scale installations by Gerhard Although slightly oddball, you will Reformers such as German artist Hein- Richter and Anish Kapoor. find yourself questioning the meaning rich Zille, best known for his humour- behind these ever so strange pieces of ous touch and social eye, Fridus, best Special events, lectures, and workshops art. Exhibits change every month and known for his religious paintings and also run throughout the year in col- this gallery is only open Thursday, Friday Anton Vermeer, famous for his historical laboration with the museum (for more and Saturday from noon till 6pm; cost of canvases. Going forward in time, there is details visit their website). Although a entrance is free. (C. Preusse) a section on the Birth of Modernity. This 83 Bears, Beers and Bikes A Young Persons Guide to Berlin 84 84

CTR July Master Final.indd 83-84 7/29/11 10:29 PM Art and Culture Currywurst Museum engaging all the senses.

The French Institute Next to the institute, there is Cinema Although a little expensive this is a vivid, Paris which has kept the style of the 50’s. Schützenstraße 70 i tactile exhibition which everyone will

It shows all the latest French films such Mitte enjoy regardless of age. Make sure you Kurfürstendamm 211 i as director’s Guillaume Canet’s block- Opening Hours: sample the different types of currywurst Kurfurstendamm buster ‘Les Petits Mouchoirs’. 10am - 10pm (Mon. – Sun.) at the end in the café too – bon appetit! U-bahn: Uhlandstrasse (Last entry 8pm) (M.Burrows) Exhibitions: The centre welcomes you in a pleasant Price: Students: €8.50. 2:00pm - 6:00pm (Mon.), atmosphere. The staff are friendly. You Adult: €11 (‘snack’ tickets cost extra) 2:00pm - 7:00pm (Tues.), will enjoy learning French and immers- www.currywurstmuseum.en 12:00pm - 7:00pm (Wed.), ing yourself in the culture of France. 12:00pm - 7:00pm (Thu.), (M. Porchard) Invented in 1949 after WW2 as a tasty 2:00pm - 7:00pm (Fri.), yet economical snack, Currywurst has 11:00am - 3:00pm (Sat.) since gone on to become an emblem of 2.00pm - 4.30pm (Sun.) German society. A meal of cult status in the world of fast food, over 800 million If you are staying in Berlin for a while Currywurst are consumed worldwide and you are an admirer of the French, every year, and it is therefore no surprise then the French Institute is the perfect that there is a museum dedicated to this place. Located round the corner of the Deutsch delicacy. busy Uhlandstrasse, it is a sixty-year old language learning institute and an enter- Housing a wealth of information on the taining cultural centre. Berliner’s favourite dish, every imagi- nable fact is covered. There are videos The centre has a diverse choice of af- on how the dish is prepared, a look into fordable courses destined to students, ‘fast food architecture’, an intricate map firms, adults. The institute also offers Ger- detailing different Currywurst outlets man courses for French native speakers. all over the world and even a display on It regularly hosts concerts, free art ex- the evolution of the different utensils hibitions and readings from writers such accompanying the dish. as Amelie Nothomb. There are other events including plays, festivals such Try your hand at preparing some Cur- as Jazzdor and dance performances. It rywurst of your own with the interactive also organises exchange programmes game, and venture into a fast food stand between Paris and Berlin. Every year, it where you can experience what it is like celebrates the city of Lyon’s traditional to be a vendor. Alternatively you can Festival of Lights lounge on the couch or watch a documentary on the dish; there are plenty of rooms to choose from

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CTR July Master Final.indd 85-86 7/29/11 10:29 PM Art and Culture

The Museum / of publicity, go anytime. You can be Das Zuckermuseum comfortable in the knowledge that there will be no crowds formicating

around the museum when you arrive. Amrumerstrasse 32 i (C. Thompson) Mitte

U-bahn: Amrumerstraße. Hatch Kingdom - Sticker

Opening Times: 9:00am – 4:30p Museum

Mon. – Thu.)

11:00am – 6:00pm (Sun.) Brunnenstrasse 196 Price: by donation. Guided tours- i Mitte 30.00€ Opening Hours: 12pm – 6pm (Wed. – Sun.) If Willy Wonka had a museum, this www.hatchkingdom.com would be it, holed away in the small attic space of the Sugar Industry Institute. A surprisingly first-rate Born out of an early love of the skat- exhibition on all things sucrose starts ing scene and underground culture, visitors at its history where you learn this cosy exhibition is sticker enthusi- that it was in Germany that the abil- ast Hatch’s brain child. Housing thou- ity to extract sugar from beets was sands of stickers, this cosy display invented: This was the “gobstopper” showcases the wide range of roles that should have put more expensive stickers have come to play in con- cane sugar out of business. Learn temporary society, from commercial about harvesting and industrial to cult. There is also a small gallery processing and find out about all the housing local artists work, allowing uses of sugar. Some products, like them a platform to sell their prints. cardboard, are good for the world, while sugar’s use in the synthesis It offers an interesting glimpse into of Zyklon-B makes one sick to one’s a phenomenon which is currently stomach. evolving worldwide, especially in cities such as Berlin where no surface If you have a sweet tooth for science is left untouched, covered in stick- and history, this museum is strongly ers and graffiti. Despite being a little recommended, though those on the small side this is well worth a without knowledge of German are look, especially as it’s free. (M.Burrows) encouraged to book a 1-hour English tour in advance. Also due to its lack

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CTR July Master Final.indd 87-88 7/29/11 10:29 PM Art and Culture you feel as if you gathered up and cat- manship and artwork is present in many egorized the contents of a flea market. ornate exhibits, with unique instruments The Museum of Extraordinary Albrecht himself is also known to take his Cutlery and crockery stand alongside such as The Mighty Wurlitzer, an intri- Things “things” (Dinge) on the road around Eu- decorative plates and even Nazi memo- cate keyboard marketed as a one man (Das Museum der Unerhörten rope and close up shop until his return. rabilia, loosely labelled according to orchestra, easily impressing visitors. Dinge) (C. Thompson) themes such as ‘functional’, ‘kitsch’ and Arguably more remarkable is the gargan- ‘black and yellow’. All explanatory notes tuan tracker pipe organ. Built in the early The Museum of Things / are in German, with (unfortunately less 1800’s, it extends to the museum ceiling, Crellestrasse 5-6 i Das Museum der Dinge than perfect) English translations on exhibiting vibrant greens and golds with Schöneberg request. lavish carvings of angelic figures. Need- S-Bahn: Julius-Leber-Bruecke less to say, look but don’t touch. Opening Times: Oranienstraße 25 i This wonderfully unusual little exhibition 3:00pm – 7:00pm (Wed. – Fri.) Kreuzberg will intrigue and delight you and at just The second floor continues in much the www.museumderunerhoertend- U-bahn: Kottbusser Tor €2 is an affordable antidote to the more same vein, also including an entire music inge.de Opening Times: crowded and touristic of Berlin’s mu- workshop complete with tools from the 12:00pm - 7:00pm (Sun. – Fri.) seum scene. (S. Gleeson) latter 19th century. Here you can find Closed on Saturdays Forget the grandeur of the Pergamon, models of mechanisms providing an Price: Student: €2 Adult: €4 The Museum of Extraordinary Things is Berlin Instrument Museum / indepth look into the inner workings www.museumderdinge extraordinarily microscopic, consisting Staatliches Institut für Musik- of pianos and other instruments. The of a grand total of two rooms free to the forschung museum also holds lectures and classi- Tucked away at the top of an unassum- public. But don’t let this hole in the wall cal performances here (see website for ing Kreuzberg apartment block, this fool you: its cavity is packed with curios Tiergartenstraße 1 i details). Audio guides are available for treasure trove of assorted objects could that range from the esoteric to the plain Mitte historical details, but even without, this is be easy to miss. Keep an eye out for the wacky; everything from petrified ice to U-bahn / S-bahn: Potsdamer Platz a fascinating look at how technology has signs outside and walk up the staircase the stone that inspired Thomas Mann. Opening Times: advanced the evolution of music into its to the third floor. Don’t be fooled by the Less a hoarder and more an “alternative 9:00am – 5:00pm present day form. (P. Ellis) green tiled walls fool you – you have not antiquarian”, the owner/curator, Roland (Tue.Wed. Fri.), actually wandered into a U-bahn sta- Albrecht carefully catalogues all exhib- 9:00am – 10:00pm (Thu.), tion. Friendly staff greet you as you enter ited pieces with detailed information 10:00am – 5:00pm (Sat. - Sun.) the museum’s understated and modern filling an entire A4 sheet! But be warned Price: Student: €2.50. Adult: €4.00 shop, where the quirky array of stock – that both the man and literature are www.sim.spk-berlin.de strictly German-only. which includes pop-up postcards, house- hold objects and books – is a taster for A personal recommendation for those the museum itself. who love alternative art and are of Residing in the just a brief strong linguistic mettle: speak with the With uniform white walls and glass- stroll from the Brandenburg Gate, the owner. He is well connected within that fronted wooden cabinets, the exhibition Berlin Instrument Museum showcases community and even regularly hosts space is modern and minimalist. This an astonishing 3500 musical pieces, exhibitions in his atelier-like museum. collection of everyday items chronicles spanning two vast floors. The collection But check the website before visiting, as the history of product design in Germany features a multitude of prized antiques and is so diverse and eclectic as to make from strings to brass to woodwind, dat- ing back to the 1500’s. Exquisite craft- 89 Bears, Beers and Bikes A Young Persons Guide to Berlin 90 90

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in creating moving images. A simple such as Fritz Lang, Ernst Lubitsch and Filmmaking under National Social- Museum for Film and Televi- sion/ Museum fur Film und camera pan (presumed to be the first G.W. Pabs created their most iconic ism is represented in a series of steel Fernsehen in cinema history) is presented, show- films. Most notably is Fritz Lang’s drawers which symbolise both an ing just how far cinema has come in Metropolis. This is commemorated archive and a morgue. The drawers

the last 100 years. Silent films play in an awe-inspiring display of Lang’s reveal how they treated “undesir- Potsdamer Straße 2 i projected on the walls and the music futuristic Berlin, where you can liter- able” artists, which is both moving Mitte of old Hollywood chimes throughout ally walk through his modern take on and chilling. U-bahn / S-bahn: Potsdamer Platz the room, leaving you enchanted and the city. A brief walk through post-war film- Opening Times: nostalgic. Delving deeper, it’s all aboard as you making leads you to films made dur- 10:00am - 6:00pm (Tue. – Sun.), Moving to the next stop on your sail to the Atlantic with German film ing the divide of Berlin. This is rep- 10:00am - 8:00pm (Thu.) journey you learn about the Weimer stars such as Emil Janning, the first resented cleverly by movie posters Price: Student: €4.50. Adult: €6 Republic (1918-1933) and the impor- actor to ever receive an Oscar, and sorted into “East” and “West”. This tant role film played within it, its most infamous German icon Marlene Di- then leads you to the finishing post The room of mirrors that greets you in successful film creation Das Cabinet etrich. A huge exhibition displaying where you are let into the secrets of the Museum for Film and Television des Dr Caligari. Made in Berlin, the film costumes and personal artefacts of New German Cinema. sets you up for a whirl wind tour of immediately gained cult status and Dietrich thrusts you into the pres- This is excellent value for money German film history. Clad in mirrors explored the genres of German ex- ence of old Hollywood glamour. The and a fascinating look through Ger- from top to bottom, this room gives pressionism and horror. The film plays actress attracted controversy during man film history. A must see for any away no secrets as to what’s in store! on a loop and even for the hardened the Second World War by turning film-buff and an education in mod- Starting with Pioneers and Divas, you modern day horror movie fan induces down an offer to appear in Joseph ern German history for anyone else learn of the Skladanowsky Brothers a chill. Goebbels propaganda films, which in-between. and their ground-breaking technology During the Weimer Republic, silent won her huge popularity with troops (J.Rendall) film reached its peak and directors in the US.

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CTR July Master Final.indd 93-94 7/29/11 10:29 PM Food and Drink

Literaturhaus Berlin Wonderpots Russian Teahouse / Tadschikische Teestube

Fasanenstraße 23 Georgenstraße 194 i i 1 Am Festungsgraben Charlottenburg Prenzlauer Berg i Mitte U-bahn: Uhlandstraβe. S-bahn: Friedrichstraße S-bahn: Friedrichstraße S-bahn: Zoologischer Garten Opening Times: 11:00am – 11:00pm Opening Times: Opening Times: Mon.-Sat.: 9am-6pm Price: €4 5pm – 12pm (Mon. – Fri.), www.wonderpots.de 3pm – 12pm (Sat. – Sun.) Price: 3.00€ – 9.00€ Approaching the Literturhaus it is hard not to be taken aback by the façade of Inspired by New York’s famous frozen this beautiful villa and the elaborate gar- yogurt shop, Pink Berry’s, Wonderpots In return for checking your shoes and dens which frame it. This lavish build- was only recently opened in Berlin in outside voices at the door, Tadchikische ing has three main entrances giving the summer of 2011. Despite its lack of Teestube will reward you with volumes way to a bookstore, a lecture hall, and maturity, this trig and polished frozen of tea choices and a gentle, oriental a restaurant-café. The latter is a beauti- yogurt and coffee outlet is already the aura quintessential of a long afternoon ful space with an ornate ceiling, clad in perfect excuse for a mouth-melting of peaceful conversation or solitary gold leaf and green paint. The modern and guilt-free summer binge. However, reflection. The 35-year-old tea house, a dark wooden tables combined with yel- going in expecting a variety of flavors, product of the German-Soviet Friend- low painted walls decorated in eclectic will leave you disappointed: frozen ship, is a gem cached in the second floor photography and art produce a tran- yogurt shops in Germany only contain of the creaky Palais Am Festungsgraben. quil environment. Cake and coffee are the “original” yogurt flavor. For a treat And while it may be sequestered from reasonably priced, and with a fresh flaky that isn’t bare, the whipped cream- the noise and hustle-bustle of Museum pear tart accompanied by a warm cup like frozen yogurt can be doused in a Island, it does not hide from natural sun- of coffee with cream it is hard not to sit whopping array of toppings such as light. The large, open windows welcome and indulge. There is also an extensive candy, cereal, fruit, and sprinkles. If a generous amount of sunlight, igniting food menu serving traditional German you’re not in the mood for a cold snack, the greens, browns, and golds of the tea foods like schnitzel, and a good selec- Wonderpots also serves espressos and house. Once seated at either a window tion of fresh salads. Located next to the hot chocolate for under €3. Its contem- table, on which you often find locals restaurant-café is a quaint German-lan- porary lighting, artsy décor, and ample playing a German dice game, or com- guage bookstore. Also, the main feature seating room attract a younger crowd fortable Asian-style cushions, you are of the house is the lecture hall where a that you will want to be a part of when able to choose tea dishes from a variety variety of different authors come to read strolling in Prenzlauer Berg on a hot of countries, including Russia, Ireland, their works. (A. Perkins) summer day. (R.Cohen) Japan, Iran, and China. The menu also includes a small selection of , as low as 3.50€ and desserts ranging from 2.90€-6.00€. But be sure to wear light clothing, for the room tends to get on the steamy side. (R. Cohen) 95 Bears, Beers and Bikes A Young Persons Guide to Berlin 96

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Melt Caramel are a treat pleasing both to palate and La Focacceria junkies are still able to reach for home- pocket. The cafe’s own homemade cara- concocted chilli-oil, provided on the mel features heavily on the menu and table. Grünbergerstraße 40 i makes a deliciously sweet and syrupy 24 Fehrbelliner Straße i Gather a group of hungry friends, don’t Friedrichshain addition to not only the crepes, but Prenzlauerberg fret too much over flavour selections U-bahn: Frankfurter Tor also to chai lattes and cappuccinos. The U-bahn: Rosenthalerplatz (normally around 12 to choose from) Opening Times: staff here could not be more friendly or Opening Times: and spend an afternoon here letting the 8:00am – 7:00pm (Mon. – Thu.), helpful and are only too happy to chat 11:00am - 11:00pm (Mon. – Sat.) debate over which topping is king lead 8:00am – late (Fri.), as they prepare your food. Although Closed on Sundays. the conversation. (J.Hyndman) 9:00am – 8:00pm (Sat. – Sun.) there is not much indoor seating space Price: €1.20 - €2.70 (drinks) (room for roughly 10 people), the cafe’s €1.50 - €18.00 (food) A hidden gem on Grünbergerstraße, outdoor tables make it an ideal sum- this small and inviting French-run café mertime location to relax and absorb Up a sloping, tree-lined avenue of quirky serves up such traditional specialities as the atmosphere. Alternatively, get your boutiques and cafes, this unassuming filled baguettes, pastries, quiches, maca- order to go. With its moreish home- Italian shop is at first exceptional roons and, of course, crêpes. These made food and reasonable price range, only because of the enticing smells delectable desserts are freshly prepared Melt Caramel lives by the motto which wafting from the service hatch, and the within the cafe itself and with prices is prominently displayed above its door: sporadic yell of ‘Lasagne!’ through the starting at just €1.90 (crêpe with sugar), ‘Eat Crepes, No Crap’! (S. Gleeson) same portal. Inside, the case is differ- ent- pulsing with activity as customers pick-and-mix‘stücks’ of unique Focac- ciabread based pizza slices (one is €1.50 ranging to 14 to shareat €18), or peruse the authentic €3.90 pasta and simple salad menu. The waiters-cum- chefs-cum-cashiers dodge one another between the counter andmighty pizza oven. Creaky benches outside compliment the rustic wooden boards that focaccia are served on- forming a perfect shar- ing opportunity for long lunches to lead into lazy afternoons. Some of the pizza toppings like juicy rocket, baked auber- gine, sliced courgette along with fresh tuna, prawns, salami and herby meat- balls, conceal an unsuspected heat in their flavoursome sauce. However, spice

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Yam Yam Korean Cuisine Spreegold creative Vitamins (fruit smoothies). For an adventure, order the piquant Sweet Kiss consisting of raspberry, ginger and apple Alte Schönhauser straße 6 i Rosa-Luxemburg-Straße 2 i blitzed together to make a drink that Mitte Mitte sates the thirst by setting the back of your U-bahn: Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz U-bahn & S-bahn: Alexanderplatz throat on fire. (C. Thomson) Opening Times: 8:00am – 12:00am Opening Times: Soup 12pm - 12am (Mon. –Sat.), Price: 6.00€ - 10.00€ 12pm - 11pm (Sun.) www.spreegold.com

www.yamyam-berlin.de Grünberger Straße 67 i

Friedrichshain If you are looking for toothsome tastes, U-bahn: Frankfurter Tor Whether you are looking to satisfy a then you have struck gold – Spreegold, Opening Times: serious craving or try Korean cuisine for that is. This restaurant couples a simple 11:30am - 11:00pm (Mon – Sat), the first time, Yam Yam is sure to deliver. interior with a beach bar exterior: Scandi- 11:30am - 9:00pm (Sun) This food joint serves a wide range of navian-style minimalism versus Heineken www.hot-dog-soup.de authentic Korean dishes including the umbrellas and foosball. Its philosophy is popular gimbab (Korean sushi rolls), to produce fresh, homemade food from bibimbab (spicy rice and vegetables in scratch. The menu ranges from hearty, all- The quirky name of this small eatery on a sizzling stone pot) and bulgogi (sweet day breakfasts; to saporous soups, salads Grünberger Straße snappily summarises marinated beef). And for you foodies al- and sandwiches; to their signature pastas what diners can expect to find: hot dogs ready familiar with the Korean palate, try and dulcet desserts – all made in-house. and soup. The hot dog menu is creative the banzan platter for two, a filling com- and diverse, offering such delights as the bination of rice and traditional Korean The pastas are strongly recommended as tangy and mouth-wateringly juicy Hawai- side dishes. The appetizers and sides Spreegold makes them using their own ian, loaded with sweet chilli sauce, crisp check in at about €2-4 each and mains, pasta machine. Choose from tagliatelle, fried onions and fresh pineapple chunks. €6-8 – a total win for the wallet. What is campanelle, creste di gallo or macaroni Be warned that the abundance of sauce more, the restaurant attracts a particu- pastas when placing your order at the and generosity of toppings mean eating larly young and hip crowd, lending itself counter. Try the Green and White with here is an exercise in manual dexterity to a cool and energetic atmosphere fresh basil-rocket pesto, mild farmer’s and stain avoidance. Made from organic that makes your dining experience that cheese and biting black olives. However, meat with innovative garnishes, this is if you are in a hurry, grab one of their a refreshing twist on a tired snack food. much more satisfying. (J. Myung) fresh ready-crafted sandwiches – to die Vegetarians need not despair that 50% of for, but only if there is a Spreegold in the establishment’s name is meat-based Heaven. – vegetarian versions of all hot dogs are available. The range of organic soups is It is easy to get a filling meal for around similarly eclectic, from the likes of coco- 6-8€ that includes one-hour internet, nut and spinach, to more traditional chilli even if accompanied with one of their or vegetable.

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Santa Maria’s Café Einstein

This is budget eating at its finest: each

hot dog costs just €2, while a hearty Oranienstraße 170 i Kurfürstenstraße 58 i bowl of soup (served with bread) comes Kreuzberg Schöneberg in between €2.90 and €4.50. Hot Dog U-bahn: Kottbusser Tor U-bahn: Nollendorfplatz. Soup manages the rare feat of being Opening Times: S-bahn: Zoologischer Garten kooky while lacking pretence, afford- 12.00 - late (Mon. - Sun.) Opening Times: able without feeling cheap, and makes Prices: €3.00 - €7.00 (food) 8:00am-1:00am (Mon. - Sun.) welcome departure from standard fast €2.50 - €11.00 (drinks) food fare. (S. Gleeson) www.lasmarias.de/santa/home

Café Einstein Stammhaus forms the Ritter Sport Bunte Schoko Welt Although the menu in the upstairs Santa Maria’s bar and diner delivers epicenter of Berlin’s coffeehouse scene. SchokoLounge offers a range of salads classic Mexican street style cuisine and It is housed in a 1869 villa that first and savoury snacks, cocoa is (unsurpris- Französische Straße 24 achieves cool, Mexican authenticity served as a sewing machine factory, i ingly) king. You can indulge both your Mitte without a sombrero in sight.The interior but has served a multitude of purposes creativity and your sweet-tooth as you U-bahn: Französische Straße is understated to let big flavours, like since then. Marble-top tables and customise your order of Eisschokolade, S-bahn: Friedrichstraße those of the Burrito ‘Puerco Especial’: creaky wooden chairs fill this Viennese- milkshake or frappe with the bar or ice- Opening Times: crispy pork, fresh guacamole, gutsy coffeehouse style room. Coffee is cream of your choice. A simple coffee 10am – 8pm (Mon. – Sat.), red salsa and chipotle cream served on served on a chrome plated tray with a costs €2, while it’s €3.80 for more extrav- 10am – 6pm (Sun.) kitsch, floral tin plates, speak for them- small pot of steamed milk, and a glass of agant beverages. Catering for all ages www.ritter-sport.de/berlin selves. No dish will cost you more than water. Classical Viennese deserts such and tastes, this is a SchokoMecca which €7, so sampling a selection of different as Apfelstrudel (apple strudel) are also no chocoholic should leave unvisited. delicacies is mandatory. This means the available and are served with a dollop of Outside the Schoko Welt, chocolate fans (S.Gleeson) place attracts serious foodies as well house made wiped cream that will leave perch upon stools and enjoy Ritter crea- as mellow, trendy types. Santa Maria’s you in a state of bliss. Large selections tions at colourful tables. Just inside is oozes ‘Kreuzberg cool.’ of newspapers in various languages are the SchokoKreation counter, where for Offers like Tuesday’s €1 Tacos and Te- available at the entrance, and an outside just under €4, you can be Willy Wonka quila, and a daily Margarita happy hour garden is the perfect place to come and for a day and invent your very own (8:00pm - 10:00pm) lure a multitude of relax on a nice day. One setback to Café chocolate bar. With dozens of fillings punters, who spill outwards from the Einstein is the prices, which will set you and flavours to choose from, your 100g dinky bar and drink up the atmosphere back four to six euro for specialty coffee of happiness is ready in just 30 minutes. (and the cocktails) kerb-side. With this drinks. However, do not let this deter The expansive SchokoShop offers every in mind, don’t always expect prompt you from a visit. Just order an inexpen- conceivable Ritter variety, and while the service and it is highly advisable to book sive black cup of coffee and enjoy the adults follow the lifecycle of a cocoa a table for mealtimes or arrive early to atmosphere. An extensive breakfast bean along the SchokoPfad trail, young get the orders in for your caipirinhas menu is available, as well as traditional aspiring chocolatiers can produce their and margaritas! A visit to Santa Maria’s Viennese dishes, such as Wiener schnit- very own creations in the SchokoWerk- could easily prompt a feast induced zel. (A. Perkins) statt workshop downstairs. siesta, or supply enough tequila to have

you ready for a fiesta.(J.Hyndman) 101 Bears, Beers and Bikes A Young Persons Guide to Berlin 102

CTR July Master Final.indd 101-102 7/29/11 10:29 PM space for book readings, an exhibition Nordic area, and a canteen. The exhibition Embassies houses small yet informative exhibits on Nordic countries, which are con-

stantly changing. On the third floor Rauchstrasse 1 i a wonderful canteen is open to the Tiergarten public, providing cheap and amazing U-bahn: Zoologischer Garten Nordic dishes that would match any Opening Times: Nordic restaurant around Berlin. Each Mon.-Fri.: 10am-7pm, day three different main courses are Sat.-Sun.: 11am-4pm prepared; one meet course, one vege- tarian course, and one fish course. Suc- Located in the heart of the embassy culent chicken schnitzel with creamy quarter of Berlin, the Nordic Embas- mushrooms and peas is just one of the sies offer a unique cultural as well as many cheap, but amazing dishes you culinary experience. Five sleek and will encounter in this canteen. The modern national embassy buildings menu is constantly changing so you are joined by one Pan Nordic building, will never eat the same thing twice if a building that is opened to the public. you decide to visit the canteen multiple The Pan Nordic building serves multi- times, an act that is easy to do. ple functions, such as a concert hall, a (A.Perkins)

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Currywurst What is it? Fast Food in Berlin A sliced hot pork sausage, smothered in curry sauce and seasoned with copious amounts of curry powder. Currywurst was allegedly invented by Herta Heu- For those who can afford it Berlin offers a vast array of establishments offering the wer in 1949 after obtaining ketchup, Worcestershire sauce and curry powder from finest of culinary treasures. However, if your bank balance is a far cry from Caviar and British soldiers. There is even a museum dedicated solely to this symbolic dish. Truffles, seek the warm embrace of Berlin’s popular fast food culture. Both easy on the Where should I get it? wallet and on the taste buds, there are over 2000 fast food stands (Imbisses) in the The debate over who serves the best of the wurst still rages on, with Konnopke’s city, serving cheap but quality cuisine well into the night. Berlin is known for several and Curry 36 standing as the two main contenders. Both are situated in Kreuzberg simple but effective dishes, here is an introduction to the varieties on offer, and the with any combination of bratwurst, bockwurst (a larger sausage) and chips costing best locations that serve them. from €1-5.

Döner Kebab What is it? Turkish in origin, this dish usually consists of large amounts of garnished salad and lamb meat freshly sliced off of a rotating spit fresh to order. Where should I get it? Hailed by locals as the champion of the Gemüsekebab (vegetable kebab), Musta- fas in Mehringdamm is essential eating. Although queues regularly consist of 30 people regardless of time or weather, the reward is well worth the effort. Meals are constructed with surgical precision, generous portions and fresh ingredients for under €3. A dürüm döner (a large wrap) will cost slightly more but the sheer size and density provides an almost permanent cure for hunger.

Buletten What is it? Fried meatballs, typically covered with tomato ketchup or mayonnaise. Where should I get it? Once again Konnopke’s and Curry 36 are the places to go. Both are high quality and similarly priced, so choosing between the two is personal preference.

Eisbein What is it? Pork knuckle alongside sauerkraut and peas, difficult to sell to tourists. Where should I get it? Eisbein is not strictly speaking fast food, so unfortunately you may have to go res- taurant hunting if you’re curious for this Berlin specialty. (P. Ellis)

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Café am Neuen See can be satisfied from €2.70 to over €15 went for the egg and bacon meats, due to the scarcity of veal, the for a main course in the smarter res- (€4.50) and was disappointed to find the traditional Schnitzel meat. taurant. Heartily recommended are the kitchen staff had drowned his breakfast Prices are reasonable; a Ketwurst comes Lichtensteinallee 2 i flammkuchen- generous, crispy . in olive oil. East London is a place which in at just €3.20, while a larger main Tiergarten (J. Hyndman) is trying hard to impress and indeed course such as Jägerschnitzel will set U-bahn: Hasanplatz. the interior is perfectly pleasant and the you back about €9. The outdoor tables S-bahn: Tiergarten East London staff were both friendly and chatty but and beautiful riverside location opposite Opening Times: with regards ‘saving Brit food’, they’ve Berlin Cathedral make this an ideal sum-

10:00am - 12:00pm (Mon. - Sat.), some way to go. (I. Woodcock) mertime spot to enjoy some interesting Mehringdamm 33 10:00am - 11:00pm (Sun.) i and palate-pleasing food. Kreuzberg Price: 2.70€ - 15.00€ DDR Restaurant This unique experience is not to be U-bahn: Mehringdamm missed, whether you’re a history buff, a Price: 7.50€ - 9.50€ foodie, or just someone who craves the To rent a boat or reach for a cool Bavar- www.eastlondon.de Karl-Liebknecht-Straße 1 i ian Paulaner beer in the Tiergarten’s chance to run riot in a museum, just like Mitte (S. Gleeson) Café am Neuen See epitomises the you’ve always wanted to. For many Brits the morning after the S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt laid-back luxuries the city centre park Opening Times: 10am – 10pm (Mon. has to offer. Hugging the shoreline of night before means two things; re- criminations and a fried breakfast. – Sun.), the Neuen See, under the leafy boughs 10am – 8pm (Sat.) of the Tiergarten’s greenery, is one of Little advice can be offered here on the Berlin’s worst kept secrets- the place is former but with regards to the latter, the incredibly popular! And justifiably so: recently opened East London restaurant After visiting the museum, complete hours spent on the deck area ebb away, on Mehringdamm would seem to be a your immersion into Eastern German life while dangling your feet into the lake, place to offer some crumbs of comfort. by dining in the DDR-Restaurant. Serv- reclined in a deck chair at the water’s The slogan ‘God save Brit food’ hangs ing up original GDR delicacies in sleek, edge, or spent with friends round a big over the entrance and small red crowns modern surroundings, this is an edu- table. Lunchtime tends to invite families adorn the wallpaper - if anywhere in cational experience in itself. The menu and those breaking from Tiergarten Berlin could sate your appetite surely it fills you in on the stories behind the activities, whilst other visits are made should be here. dishes and drinks, providing fascinat- specifically in the evening when the ing historical titbits. Many of the dishes fairy lights and DJ’s sounds are turned Sadly, it isn’t. A full English breakfast are imitations of Western ones, such as on. The young staff here can be incred- weighs in at a wallet-punching €9.50 Krusta – pizza, but square and with a ibly busy but remain generous and help- and, while far from terrible, it does little more biscuit-like base – and Ketwurst – ful. However an exceptional atmosphere to justify its inflated price. While the a hotdog, re-named by combining the seemingly comes with a price: bottled organic eggs and homemade baked German words for ‘ketchup’ and ‘sau- water is an above average €3 and most beans were good the sausage was grey sage’. The shortage of consumer goods other drinks follow suit. A wide range of both in colour and in taste and the por- is evident in dishes like Jägerschnitzel, food stuffs however means stomachs tion size was on the small side. My friend which was made from a mixture of

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Fassbender & Rausch cocoa greets you immediately, pulling you further into this cavern of calorific delights. Charlottenstrasse 60 i Mitte Rows upon rows of cellophaned sweet U-Bahn: Stadtmitte treasures line the shelves containing eve- Opening hours: ry type of chocolate imaginable. There 10 am - 8 pm (Mon. – Sat.) are bears, cats, ladybirds, mushrooms, 11 am - 8 pm (Sun.) even a garden themed section - every (Café & Restaurant times differ) fancy is catered for. The variety is overwhelming, and a good twenty minutes is recommendable for any serious purchase. Make your se- lection of pralines or truffles from the extensive glass counters lining the shop, staffed by friendly clerks wearing pristine white gloves and delicately selecting chocolates from their gold plastic casing. Kjosk it is a big, white double decker bus. Also dotted around the shop on the Inside the retired vehicle you will find ground floor are chocolate replicas of selves full with unexpected foods such a German landmarks including the Reich- Oranienstraße 1 i mini boxes of cereal, fresh eggs, tomato stag and the TV tower, as well as a choco- Kreuzberg sauce and even pick and mix sweets late Titanic, globe and a live volcano. U-Bahn: Kotbusser Tor to soothe that midnight sweet tooth. Opening times: Drinks are in abundance also, you will To continue the chocolate experience 9:00am – 11:00pm (Mon. – Fri.), have the choice of a selection of beers, there is the Fassbender & Rausch café 11:00am – 2:00am (Sat. – Sun.) wines and hot drinks (prices start at situated on the first floor above the shop, €1.60). Although keep a listen out for specialising in exquisite cakes and coffee Hidden away behind tall, leafy trees and the bell if you order a hot drink as table at reasonable prices, with a lovely view of service is not available. The seating area Gendarmenmarkt square. down a gently sloping hill you would be forgiven for not finding Kjosk bar and which is basically a few miss-matched café so easily. Once you see its entrance chairs and tables are dotted around the For those in need of a bigger chocolate messy garden. They are not easy to get fix there is even a restaurant above the on a corner in Oranienstraße you will One of Germany’s most renowned choco- find yourself standing at the top of a hold of on weekends so arrive early to latiers, Fassbender & Rausch is every café which incorporates chocolate in get a seat or expect to sit in the bushes every dish. Our advice - ditch the diet and hill and instantly be hypnotized down chocolate connoisseur’s paradise. Walk- by the alluring fairy lights which act as next to one of the exotic flamingo ing through the doors of this prestigious enjoy! statues that peek out upon the garden. (J.Hyndman) a striking garland across the Kjosk. The chocolatiers the smell of intense, dark Kjosk is not just a standard bar though; (A.Stanton) 109 Bears, Beers and Bikes A Young Persons Guide to Berlin 110

CTR July Master Final.indd 109-110 7/29/11 10:29 PM Food and Drink

Kuchen Kaiser and pancakes. Well worth a visit, as the way, as a Chicken Korma will be cooked while the chilli cheese fries are a meal food is delicious and very filling, even if with peanuts and cheese, though is not in themselves. Add to this the very it is a bit out of the way for the average as disgusting as it sounds. However, reasonable prices and you can see why Oranienplatz 11-13 i sightseer! (M. Andrews) don’t just take our word for it, give Burgermeister is viewed by many as the Kreuzberg something new a try and nine times out best burger house in the city. The one Amrit / Mirchi U-bahn: Kotbusser Tor of ten you’ll be surprised with what you downside is the waiting time – as much Opening Times: like. (M. Andrews) as an hour at very busy times. However,

9am – 12am (Sun. – Thu.) if you are after a little slice of downtown Oranienburger Straße 45 i Burgermeister 9am – 1am (Fri. – Sat.) Brooklyn in Berlin then it’s more than Mitte (I. Woodcock) Price: 3.50€ - 16.00€ worth the wait. U-bahn: Oranienburger Tor

Opening Times: Oberbaumstraße 8 i

12:00pm – 1:00am (Mon. – Thurs.), Kreuzberg Kuchen Kaiser is situated at the end of 12:00pm – 2:00am (Fri. – Sat.) U-bahn: Schlesiches Tor Oranienstraße, in a leafy little square, in Price: 4€ - 15€ Opening Times: the hip district of Kreuzberg. It’s a little 11am - 2am (Mon. – Thu.), more expensive than most places in the 11am - 4am (Fri. – Sat.), area but don’t let the prices scare you 3pm – 2am (Sun.) off. The service isn’t what you would call The Amrit and Mirchi Indian and Ma- the friendliest; however the taste of the laysian restaurants on Oranienburger food does make up for this. The menu straße are just a ten minute walk away certainly caters to a range of tastes. You from Museum Island. You’re drawn to- If there were an award given out for can have gnocchi wrapped in pastry wards this Indian / Malaysian restaurant most resourceful fast food proprietors, in a mouth-watering hazelnut sauce as the warm oranges and reds stand out then the owners of Burgermeister would or you can have a creamy chicken and dramatically from the grey of the street. surely get it. Set under the arches of vegetable curry, there are many pos- Once inside you’re hit with a waft of the U-Bahn station Schlesiches Tor, this sibilities. There are a whole range of spices and you’ll forget where you are small, but perfectly formed, burger joint drinks on offer; however, the alcoholic as the interior of this peaceful restaurant is housed in an old public toilet. ones can be a bit pricey. Hot drinks are mixed with the music makes you feel €1-€3 which is very cheap for the area. It far away from the hustle and bustle of Do not let the history of the building put is fine to take your laptop in as their free everyday life. If you can get here before you off because if Döner Kebabs and WiFi is cheaper than sitting in an inter- 5pm then you’re in luck. Their lunch currywurst aren’t for you then Burger- net café for hours on end. There is also menu serves many of the dishes which meister is a fantastic alternative. Large, a frühstück (breakfast) menu running are over €10 at around €5.50. There isn’t succulent, homemade beef patties until 3pm offering a range of different as much choice as there should be, but served in a toasted bun with fresh salad even the pickiest of eaters will be able to and helpings of ketchup and mayo; this breakfasts ranging from a simple French breakfast, with croissants and jam, to a find something they’ll enjoy. The dishes is a tour-de-force of beef burgers. The huge American breakfast, with bacon aren’t always made in the conventional fries come in generously sized portions

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Knofi Feinkost are faced with its glorious delicatessen counter. What you see here is what you’ll likely be eating and being able to see Bergmannstrasse 11 i your food in all its fresh colourful splen- Kreuzberg dour before its inevitable devouring only U-bahn: Gneisenaustrasse tempts the taste buds further. Generous Opening Times: salad plates draw from all sections of the 7:00am – 12:00am ( Mon. – Sun.) deli; featherlight falafel, rich and creamy Price: €4.00 - €7.50 hummus and pastes and crunchy salad. www.knofi.de/cafe.htm A freshly baked pitta comes alongside to mop it all up with. Walking down Bergmannstrasse in Somehow, by an amazing act of gener- Kreuzberg, you might be forgiven for osity from the gourmet gods, there is going right past Knofi, as its small unas- something even more delectable on the suming frontage doesn’t exactly grab menu. Step forward, lamb tagine! A fiery your attention. Don’t make that mistake and fragrant cumin sauce is offset by though. Behind its doors though lies a a cooling tzatsiki accompaniment. The Anna Blume crown jewels of Anna Blume, its home- delightful little delicatessen and café lamb itself simply melts in the mouth. made cakes. By this time you’ve probably that serves up Mediterranean and Turk- Enough of the food porn, just visit this already mentally devoured each one divine pocket of Middle Eastern cuisine Kollwitzstrasse 83 i ish food to make your palate purr with of the decadent delights. Every cake is delight. and find out for yourself. Oh, and it’s Prenzlauer Berg made fresh that morning, a promise giv- cheap. Dig in. U-bahn: Senefelder Platz en by a waiter pulling his most earnest Taking a seat inside the cosy café, you (R. Adams) Opening Times: face. Perhaps the rhubarb cake will take 10:00am – 12:00am (Mon. – Sun.) your fancy, or you’ll take a chance and go Price: €4.00 - €9.50 for the walnut and mascarpone cheese- cake. Moist, soft and flavoursome, all are Whilst on Kollwitz Strasse in Prenzlauer mouth-watering and cost a maximum of Berg, you may find yourself caught by €3.40. the fragrant aroma of fresh flowers. That The menu is extensive beyond the seductive smell is most likely emanating coma-inducing cakes, with other sweet from Anna Blume, a cafe and florist rolled offerings like ice cream sundaes as well into one. Named after a poem by Kurt as more savoury fare such as filled crepes Schwitters, this charming establishment and paninis. As you leave, little provides a unique sensual experience flutter over to try and steal those few that brings together the culinary and the crumbs you might have so foolishly left floral. behind. Remember, greed is good. Upon walking in, your eyes are instantly (R. Adams) drawn to the glass case containing the

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CTR July Master Final.indd 115-116 7/29/11 10:29 PM Hackeshe Höfe Markt Treptow Antik Floh Markt

Mitte i Treptow i Neue Promenade / Hackesche Markt Eichenstrasse U-Bahn: Weinmeisterstrasse S-Bahn: Treptower Park Opening times: 9:00am – 6:00pm (Sat.) Opening times: 8:00am – 5:00pm (Sat.

The Hackesche Höfe Saturday Markt Tucked away down the side street of rests in the modest square of Neue Eichenstrasse in Treptow, the weekend Promenade in the Mitte district of market has proven to hold a varied mix Eastern Berlin. Little white tents line the of trinkets and treasures. It is a very court yard which is surrounded by big messy and chaotic affair but this actually name restaurants and cafes. Inside each makes it that more appealing to explore. tent you will come across an assorted The markets unintentional eccentricity mix of foods, hand-made jewelry and is due to the worn out furniture, broken rainbow painted flowers. If you fancy a ice cream coolers and tatty toys that are leisurely stroll around Hackesche Höfe scattered along the ground. Inside, each Markt then you’ll only need to spare an stall has an indisputable charm because hour of your day because of its humble of the quirky and weird environment. Strasse des Juni 17 this Aladdin’s cave of treasure is just as size. Walking around the market will in- The clock stand for example showcases Flea Market engaging as buying from the vast, ec- stantly please your eyes because of the a variety of clocks, each one with its own lectic mix. However touch at your own colourful mix of fresh red berries, long tick-tock beat. Towering above the stalls Straβe de 17. Juni i peril; while they encourage your inter- leafy carrots and the still-a-bit-dirty po- are boxes upon boxes of yellow stained Charlottenburg est, sellers are extremely pedantic about tatoes on the fruit and vegetable stalls. books, moth eaten jumpers and very U-bahn: Hansaplatz. S-bahn: Tiergarten how their wares are laid out and what The organic delights are worth a pur- dated records. The market clearly has Opening Times: 10:00am - 5:00pm may seem like a scattering of silverware chase to spice up that evening’s meal. no boundaries to what stock it holds. to you, will be hastily rearranged to ex- Don’t expect too much here though as Look through the vintage photograph act compass points if not put back in a the market really lacks the hustle and boxes which are filled with long forgot- A staggering variety of wares are exhib- designated spot! Some vendors will also bustle and frenzied characters that exist ten family pictures and personal letters. ited along the rows of the Strasse des cheekily claim they don’t speak English within the Market. Expect The market is riddled in mystery. It is an Juni 17 flea market below Tiergarten to put you on the back foot for negotia- more elderly tourist couples dithering ideal day out for bargain hunters and for S-bahn station. Antiquities here seem tions, but the haggling is all in good about what souvenir to buy rather than those who just like to explore. Prices are to come from across the world, not spirit and stall owners seem to acknowl- the chaotic rummage sales that live in reasonably cheap but like most markets just Germany; fur coats from Russia, edge this: a sign reads ‘we buy junk and other markets. (A Stanton) it can become mildly expensive so do Italian leather satchels, Dutch vintage sell antiques’, so stand your ground here not be over powered by the allure of the linen, Prussian-era tea sets and military and there are some fantastic bargains to second hand items. After all, buying a memorabilia are among the specialities be had. (J. Hyndman) wheel chair on impulse may prove to be stacked up on heaving tables. Browsing a regrettable idea. (A Stanton)

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Flea market at Mauerpark There is jewellery, bric-a-brac, designer lar basketball court, and behind that a clothes, old clothes, vintage clothes, field of people milling around eating, clothes of every kind and price range in dancing and generally having a good Bernauer strasse 63-64 i a colourful, vibrant setting, a refreshing time. The laid back festival atmosphere Mitte change to the ubiquitous bland shop- is infectious, and you can’t help but kick U-Bahn: Eberswalder Straße ping centre (i.e. Alexa at Alexander- back with a beer and sunbathe on the Opening times: 8am - 6pm (Sun.) platz). hill overlooking the karaoke, taking in www.mauerparkmarkt.de the sights and sounds. A buzzing hive of activity, young and old congregate at this eclectic event held Highly recommended, but a few words Brick Lane eat your heart out, the Mau- every Sunday, and right next door in of advice – the port-a-loo’s are not for erpark flea market has it all. Situated Mauerpark is karaoke throughout the af- the fainthearted, beer is a little expen- right next to Mauerpark, it is a bargain ternoon and into early evening, drawing sive from the drinks tents and you need hunter’s paradise, whether you are look- in hundreds of spectators as members sturdy walking shoes to conquer the ing for bikes or bananas you can find of the public take turns having their 15 Mauerpark hill. Also make sure you them here amongst the vast maze of minutes of fame. take a big bag to bring all your treas- stalls. ures home, and be prepared to haggle! Just behind the karaoke stage is a popu- (M.Burrows) 119 Bears, Beers and Bikes A Young Persons Guide to Berlin 120

CTR July Master Final.indd 119-120 7/29/11 10:29 PM Shopping Fashion Week: Don’t Fart on Berlin’s Fashion Shows

Berlin is renowned for its captivating history and indigenous currywurst cuisine, however, it is time to recognise Berlin’s insight on fashion. During this trendy city’s fashion week, designers from all over Germany, nevertheless all over the world, join to unveil an assortment of styles that reflect the diversity of Berlin’s chic culture. Although the most famous of fashion weeks can be found in the likes of Milan, Lon- don, Paris and New York, an acknowledgment to Berlin’s week is deserved. This city is full of flavour and distinctive ideas, and its fashion bares just that.

Contrary to popular belief, not all fashion weeks are excessively pompous—at least not here. A Diesel or ESCADA catwalk might not be penciled in to your itinerary but there are still plenty of events throughout the week that are just as stimulating, free, and open to the public. Yes, that’s right, free and public; two concepts rarely found in this industry.

In the middle of the summer, Mercedes-Benz will pitch its tent outside of Branden- burg Gate, thus commencing the fashion week. While this tent may be territory for VIPs, there are various other venues around the city that are buzzing with fashion gurus and aficionados. The week is not only meant to shine light on designers and their collections but also to unite those who share a similar love for the industry. Bloggers, buyers, traders and prospective business owners are welcomed to differ- ent events throughout the week to discuss their passion for fashion. Berlin’s events even tailor to those who are of a green minded nature: organic clothes, anyone? A good tip is to get friendly with a bartender at one of these events to get on the guest list for another and perhaps even more distinguished soirée.

So, don’t be fooled by the stereotypes that typically encompass a fashion week, as you will not find them all here. You may even find yourself carrying home a new bag you received for free at one of the events that reads in big bold letters: “Don’t fart on fashion shows.” Berlin Fashion Week shows just what the city itself is made of: a city of spirit and individuality. Berlin Fashion Weeks come twice a year, so look out for these events around January and July. For information visit: www.fashion- week-berlin.com. (C. Preusse) 121 Bears, Beers and Bikes A Young Persons Guide to Berlin 122

CTR July Master Final.indd 121-122 7/29/11 10:29 PM chapter title Galleries Lafayette / KaDeWe Friedrichstraße 76-78 i Mitte Tauentzienstrasse 21 - 24 i U-bahn: Französische straβe Charlottenburg Opening Times: Opening Times: 10:00am - 8:00pm (Mon. - Sat.) 10:00am – 8:00pm (Mon. – Thu.), www.galerieslafayette.de 10:00am – 9:00pm (Fri.),

9:30am - 8:00pm (Sat.)

www.kadewe.de Like a glamorous French Aunt that came to stay and never left, the lavish French department store Galleries Lafayette is KaDeWe opened in 1907 and has since a sophisticated slice of Paris residing on then been the most prominent depart- Friedrichstraße, central Mitte. Designer ment store in the country, drawing in an brands such as Ralph Lauren, Burberry average of 180,000 costumers per year and Michael Kors are assembled around from all over the world. Comparable to a kaleidoscopic glass cone in the middle London’s infamous Harrods, this seven of the building. Flashing lights emulate level shopping centre will keep you oc- the paparazzi that it would seem this cupied for hours. store’s clientele are more than likely used to. If you aren’t dazzled by these, The building offers designers from Burb- you are sure to be by the prices- hand- erry to Tiffany and Co. to Chanel; the bags conveniently reduced from several labels are endless. By the time you reach thousand Euros to an equally unafford- the top two floors you will be famished, able one thousand! The store holds and fortunately for you there is an entire exclusivity in Germany to some of its two floors dedicated to food, ranging brands, such as Zadig and Voltaire. Many from chocolates to cheese with lobster French delicacies like buttery Foie Gras inbetween. There are also extensive and pastel pink macaroons are served sections dedicated to alcohol and cigars. on the basement level. You could sam- So, shop until you drop and then eat to ple these French fancies while sipping at your heart’s desire. The only snare is that the aromatic Maison de Thé or the au- these kind of prices may require daddy’s thentic wine cellar and bar. An interest- credit card, or else you’ll find yourself ing French book shop and art gallery are window shopping wistfully and crying nearby at this level and link the building “one day I will be able to afford this!” (C. to the equally pricey shopping centre, Preusse) ‘Quartier 206’. A place for the weekly shop this is not, but to window-shop, people watch and generally indulge in ‘how-the-other-half-lives’ the Galleries 123 Bears, Beers and Bikes Lafayette is perfect. (J.Hyndman) A Young Persons Guide to Berlin 124

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Memory

Friedrichstraße 76-78 i Mitte U-bahn: Französische straβe Opening Times: 10:00am - 8:00pm (Mon. - Sat.) www.galerieslafayette.de

Situated in the trendy shopping district of Prenzlauer Berg, Memory is a charming and affordable vintage shop. Boasting past clientele such as Kylie Minogue, it offers a wide range of women and children’s clothes, jewellery, furniture and antiques in a friendly setting.

There are classic leather handbags, pretty floral dresses and shoes galore, every nook and cranny is filled with interesting trinkets. If you get tired of browsing there is also a café situated conveniently just next door, where you can indulge in some afternoon coffee and cake. Lovely. (M.Burrows)

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Humana Do You Read Me?

Frankfurter Tor 3. i Augustrasse 28. i Friedrichshain Mite U-Bahn: Frankfurter Tor U-Bahn: Rosenthaler Platz Opening Hours: Opening times:

10:00am – 7:00pm (Mon.Fri.), 10:00am - 8:30pm (Mon. – Sat.)

10:00am – 4:00pm (Sat.) www.doyoureadme.de

Berlin’s “First Class Second Hand” mar- With the sleek and exotic front covers ket, charity shop chain Humana is the and unconventional designs staring at stuff charity shop enthusiasts dreams you on the shelves, it is no wonder that are made of. With a chain of seven ‘Do You Read Me?’ book and magazine stores across the city, the largest shop is shop has become a haven for those situated just outside the Frankfurter Tor seeking an effortlessly cool read. The U-Bahn. This five storey bargain hunter’s modest building which is located down paradise houses thousands of second the quiet street of Augustrasse has a hand clothes in impeccable condition, unique choice in magazines, books and journals meticulously picked from with stock updated regularly. selection, from shop staples like Gibson around the globe. The shop caters for a American Guitar Shop / and Fender, to more obscure models range of languages, including German, Der Guitar Shop in Berlin There are original vintage clothes from such as Framus. As a further show of English and French. If you manage to the 50’s to the 80’s, as well as more credibility, autographed photos and keep your nose out of one of the visually modern pieces. The prices are reason- notes of gratitude from guitar leg- stunning photography books for long Goethestraße 49 i able and the clothes are colour coded, ends including Mark Knopfler and Eric enough you will be able to see a diverse Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf making your shopping decisions (mar- Johnson are displayed on the walls and mix of art and fashion, architecture, in- U-bahn: S-bahn: Charlottenburg ginally) easier. There are bargain bins around their respective guitar models. terior design, culture and society books Opening Times: dotted around the store where you can The enthusiastic and friendly staff are and magazines. There is even a selected 10:00am – 6:30pm (Mon. – Thu.), pick up a whole new outfit for under more than happy to chat about your range in quirky food magazines such as 10:00am – 8:00pm (Fri) five euro’s, and the amount of choice passion, and assist you in testing any ‘I Love Macaroons’ for those who prefer 10:00am – 6:00am (Sat) is extensive. Highly recommended, but guitar or amp without steely judgement to read something a bit sweeter. The www.guitar-shop.de allow a decent amount of time to trawl of your ability. Prices range from 100€ possibility of being bored here is un- through the extensive racks to find your for a Squier up to 5000€ for a custom imaginable. Other titles you can expect own hidden treasure. (M.Burrows) Fender, so it’s unlikely you would pick to find are ‘Pop’, ‘Fantastic Man’ and If you’re a guitar junkie seeking to feed up a cheap travel guitar here, but as a ‘Dummy’, to name only a few. Prices your musical addiction, find some time browsing experience ‘The American generally span from €4 to anything for ‘The American Guitar Shop’ in Char- Guitar Shop’ is perfect for indulging above so don’t let yourself get carried lottenburg. Located on Goethestraße, your inner rock God. away with the stylish titles. (A Stanton) the store features two large showrooms brimming with an impressively varied (P. Ellis) 127 Bears, Beers and Bikes A Young Persons Guide to Berlin 128

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Waahnsinn Warehouse from the ceiling. But if you’re interested in a more elaborate buy, have a peek at the old dentist chair which can be yours Mitte i for €4500. (A Stanton) Rosenthaler Straße 17 Schoner, waers, wenns, schoon- U-Bahn: Rosenthaler Straße Opening Times: er, waer oeko, fair and wun- derbar 12:00pm – 8:00pm (Mon. – Sat.) Closed Sundays.

Oranienstraße 58a i U-bahn: Moritzplatz If you’re craving the years of long ago, Opening Times: step foot into Waahnsinn Warehouse 12:00pm – 7:00pm (Mon. – Fri.), and shop in a truly unique vintage 12:00pm – 4:00pm (Sat.) store. The vast array of clothing and Closed on Sunday. furnishings will instantly encourage you to stay as you’ll want to try on each sequined top and every leather jacket to find the perfect vintage fit. You will Among the usual clothes shops, book- come across DDR badges, flamboyantly stores and other places located on coloured wigs and shelf upon shelf of Oranienstraße, Schoner, waers, wenns, hats. Surprisingly realistic mannequins schoener waer is a lovely little store that watch your every move in their uncon- has something different to offer. It is a ventional dress as they stand among fairly new concept store where all prod- the clothing rails that hold cool hipster ucts are recycled. It includes cards, note- jeans (€40), brightly patterned shirts books, travel journals, wrapping paper (€15) and massive platform shoes that and Chinese-looking lamps made from resemble those worn in Saturday Night discarded paper. There are bags made Fever (€250). out of billboards as well as items for children such as soft toys books, puzzles, Waahnsinn Warehouse has also become pencil colours and games. Some prod- a refuge for set designers keen to find ucts are made of teak wood and bam- something a little bit different for their boo such as bowls, vases and plates. For show. Art deco style chairs with stream- those of you who enjoy gardening, the line shapes and bold, block colours sit shop sells seeds and plants. Most prod- around the shop in the hope they will ucts are made by German designers but be bought. Looking up will also give there are products made in India, China you the pleasure of seeing a number and Japan. You can also have organic of funky retro lights which are hanging tea, coffee, hot chocolate, lemonade and juice at the shop. (M.Porchard) 129 Bears, Beers and Bikes A Young Persons Guide to Berlin 130

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Hackesch- up into 8 unique squares, all contain- Höf ing something different. When you first walk in you reach a selection of cafés and restaurants, which contain

variety of menu choices, unfortu- Rosenthaler Straße 40 i nately, there isn’t much of a variation Mitte in price. However, even though it is U-bahn: Weinmeisterstraße expensive, the beauty of the square Opening Times: certainly makes up for that fact. The 7:00am – 3:00am (Mon. – Fri.) range of shops means there is some- 9:00am – 3:00am (Sat. – Sun.) thing here to cater for anyone’s tastes, www.hackesche-hoefe.com whether it is makeup, jewellery, books, clothes or the original Amplemann Hackeshe Höf isn’t hard to miss, its store. main entrance, a huge black arch on In the centre square you will find a Rosenthaler Straße stands out on the little fountain amongst trees which narrow walkway. This is a shopping really makes this centre feel com- area you would visit if you’d recently pletely separate from Berlin, and even come into a small fortune, as most of though it is often full of tourists, it is the shops there have collections with still peaceful enough for you to enjoy. steep price tags. The centre is divided (M. Andrews)

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Berlin Zoological Garden/ ten (note that all of the displays are in you are exploring the Amazon. Outside of Zoologischer Garten Berlin German). The day becomes increasingly the greenhouses an expansive arboretum exciting with interactive activities and stretches over 3,000 square metres, housing shows like sea- feeding and a pet- 1,500 different types of plants from different Hardenbergplatz 8 ting . For those who embrace their countries. Also, on the grounds there is the Mitte i inner child, the zoo is a winner (witness botanical museum; unfortunately the muse- U-bahn & S-bahn: Zoologischer Garten Opening Times: 9:00am - 7:00pm (Mar-Oct) the bizarre fountain outside the um is not in English. If you desire to let your 9:00am - 5:00pm (Oct-Mar) house if your humour is equally imma- Darwinian side shine through and to learn Price: €10.00 - €20.00 ture). (J. Hyndman) about nepenthes singalana and dacrydium www.hauptstadtzoo.de cupressinum come take a stroll through Ber- The Botanical Gardens / lin’s botanical gardens. (A. Perkins) Just next to the aptly named Zoolo- Botanischer Garten gischer Garten S-bahn, lies the oldest zoological garden in Germany. Since Königin-Luise-Straße 6-8 opening in 1844 Berlin Zoo has col- Steglitz i lected an awesome 1,554 species from U-bahn: Podbielskialle S-bahn: Botanischer Garten around the world including rhinos Opening Times: 10:00am – 6:30pm (Mon. - Sun.) and pandas involved in conservation Price: €6.00 projects and the city’s animal emblem, www.bgbm.org bears. You can choose to pay between €10 and €20 (student discount is ap- plicable here) to go into the zoo and/ The botanical gardens in Berlin are a would visit for just a few hours. If you or aquarium, or choose not to at naturalist paradise. Designed by archi- Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf are in Berlin for more than a few days all, exploring the perimeter by tect Alfred Koerner and built between S-bahn: Grunewald i it is a beautiful place to spend the day footpath instead, 1897 and 1910, the gardens have become one of the exploring. There are plenty of paths to where glimpses Grunewald is a huge forest on the most renowned botanical walk along, weaving in and out of the of some of the edge of West Berlin, to the east of the gardens in world. Fifteen trees leading you to secluded lakes. inhabitants can River Havel. It is 3000 hectares, mak- large greenhouses exist still be caught. ing it the largest green area in Berlin. on the east side of the gar- If you wanted to learn more about Other than the river Havel and part of the forests eco-system, you can visit In addition to den, constructed of steel the Großer Wannsee Lake, the forest the Berlin forest museum (closed on the impressive and glass. The largest of is rich in lakes and ponds. The biggest Sundays). There are cafés around the variety of the fifteen is the topical are the Schlachtensee, Krumme Lanke, train station, providing you with a animals, there greenhouse, a building the Grunewaldsee and the Hundeke- place to refuel after a full day of walk- are informa- housing tropical species hlesee. ing. Grunewald is a beautiful place to tion centres of plants from all over the visit, especially on a sunny day. There and exhibition tropical world. Each greenhouse Situated only 100 meters from the S- are plenty of places to explore, and you houses also residing in this accommodates different climates, bahn station, it is the perfect place to won’t run out of forest to walk through. leafy corner of Berlin’s Tiergar- thus the tropical greenhouse feels as if escape the city. This is not a forest you (M. Andrews)

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i

People’s Park in Friedrichshain / Its taupe “fairytale fountain,” which sustained the allied Strandbad Müggelsee sunshine, or make use of the volley ball Friedrichshain bombings in World War II, shows off the nets with your friends. On a hot day the i Fürstenwalder Damm 838 U-bahn: Senefelderplatz park’s whimsical side with its sandstone i Strandbad is beautiful, with the cool representations of traditional German Treptow-Köpenick water offering an escape from the heat S-bahn: Friedrichshagen Fairytales. – do be prepared for weeds lurking in In a foreign country, it is easy to feel Opening Times: 9:00am – 10:00pm overwhelmed and out of place. You look the shallow murky water though! for locals that make you feel less isolat- With 106 hewn sculptures adorning the Müggelsee in south-east Berlin, just ed from the indigenous crowd, but they park, this entrancing place is frequented There are a few cafés around, selling within city limits. Only a 10 minute tram are hard to find. In Berlin, all you need by bikers, joggers, panting dogs, pic- everything from hot drinks to curry- ride away from Friedrichshagen S-Bahn is a little enchantment from Volkspark nickers, and gossiping mothers stroll- wurst so if you haven’t brought your station, it’s a gorgeous quiet haven in Friedrichshain. ing with their children. A convenient, own food there is a lot of choice. Be hut-topped restaurant in the park serves a busy city. The beach is free and if you warned, although this lake has a popular want to rent a pedalo or a rowing boat This People’s Park was built to com- light meals, ice cream, and drinks to cool nudist beach, it is the prime location to that of course costs extra. You give a 20€ memorate the 100th anniversary of off with. There are also tennis courts, a find older people sunbathing in nothing deposit which you’ll get back, leaving ’s ascension to the pond, and jungle gyms straight out of at all, as opposed to the dream of attrac- you with a 2€ charge for an hour, which Prussian throne; he is celebrated for The Swiss Family Robinson, that wel- tive young adults. (M. Andrews) is pretty reasonable. being a renowned supporter of arts and come people of all ages. With just one There’s plenty of space around the edge philosophy. visit, it will feel like home. (R. Cohen) of the lake to sit down and relax in the

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CTR July Master Final.indd 137-138 7/29/11 10:30 PM outdoors Düppel Museum Village / To the village’s credit, the entrance fee is cheap and you can see people gardening, Open-air Cinema / Freiluftkino a little roof can protect you from freak Museumsdorf Düppel blacksmithing and generally working as if weather changes. Lastly, remember your it were the era of knights and castles- and Rosenthaler Straße 39 cigarettes as smoking is allowed. Clauertstraße 11 serfdom. There are even special events Mitte i (C. Thompson) Steglitz-Zehlendorf i throughout the year that delve further S-bahn: Hackescher Markt S-bahn: Hackescher Markt Price: 5.00€ Wannsee Price: Student: €1.00. Adult: €2.00 into the dark ages including some hands- Opening Times: Around 9:00pm – 9:30pm (see Opening Times: 3:00pm – 7:00pm (Thu.) on activities, like making your own honey schedule online) Königstraße 10:00am – 5:00pm (Sun. & Holidays) the old-fashioned way. Unfortunately, www.freiluftkino-mitte.de Steglitz-Zehlendorf i www.freiluftkino-mitte.de this is only available during a small part of S-bahn: Wannsee summer. In the viscera of Haus Schwarzenberg Anthropology majors rejoice! Open In addition, the apathetic employees alley, where the noise of urban life cannot Wannsee, at 23.7km wide, is the largest since 1975, this reconstructed 12th-13th and lacklustre atmosphere also does not penetrate, there lies an iron gate deco- lake in Berlin, and is just 50 meters away Century village is akin to a renaissance fair justify the one-and-a-half hour trek from rated with a samurai and kanji athwart a from the Wannsee S-Bahn station. Even for the academically-minded. Sadly, this the centre of Berlin for the casual tourist. small entrance to a secluded alcove: the though it is in such close proximity to the means sacrificing fun at the expense of Only die-hard students of history will find entrance to an open-air cinema experi- station, it isn’t the easiest place to find as authenticity. Learn about quotidian, peas- the Museumsdorf of interest- so long as ence that few can match. Next door is the the large amount of trees block it from ant life in a small medieval village, but they minored in German as well, as there Kino Central, an ordinary movie theatre view. without the thrilling joust sessions. are no English translations. where you can purchase the tickets and Instead of a mug of warm mead served by popcorn, but not the drinks. All beverages If you arrive in the hope of having a relax- a sassy bar wench, you see a quiet (C. Thompson) must be sought at the open-air’s own DIY ing swim like you can at the Müggelsee, woman braid rope next to a modest, bar. then you’d be disappointed. Wannsee thatched-roof hovel- sorry, a historically seems to be more of a lake to look at, go accurate hovel. With the rotation of the planet acting for a long walk around, or go for a boat as the celestial dimmer switch, only one ride to Potsdam – this is relatively cheap, movie is shown per night- and late. The less than €6. However, if you choose to go films can be anything from Germany’s for this, you’ll most likely end up sharing Run, Lola Run to modern classics like your journey with the entire elderly Juno, and all else in between. All movies population of Berlin. are in their original version with German subtitles, but always double-check the In the sunshine it is a gorgeous place to schedule ahead of time. walk around with plenty of grassy areas and trees. It is the perfect place to visit if In the dark, windless night, it is easy to you’re in Berlin for more than a weekend, feel like you are snuggled safe inside this a relaxing place to get away from the small, 50 person theatre despite the sal- busy city centre of Berlin. magundi of seating ranging from rickety (M. Andrews) plastic chairs to plush sofas. However it is recommended to sit in the back where

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CTR July Master Final.indd 139-140 7/29/11 10:30 PM outdoors New Venice / Neu-Venedig distance away in the quant, little fishing The €2 beer is cold and the food pass- village, Rahnsdorf, there is a man who able at around 8€ for a main course Neu-Venedig (A street map is strongly can rent you an equally humble craft making this a worthy quest to spend a recommended.) i able to fit a further three close friends day seeking. Its real appeal though is Treptow-Köpenick with a simple outboard motor at €49 for two-fold. Firstly, how often do you pull S-bahn: Wilhelmshagen the day. At five horsepower, the motor is up to a secluded restaurant and have to www.neuvenedig.de not exactly a Cosworth, but appropriate moor your vehicle before languishing in Neu-Venedig, where the max speed in a grassy cloistered backyard gazing limit is five kph. upon the calming waters of the exigu- Berlin, being one of the greenest cities in Europe, ous canal up which you came. But more has many rejuvenating day-trips hidden away from As you take the boat torpidly toward the importantly, without copying the map the masses of mainstream tourists. One such place entrance to this aquatic labyrinth, feel a pinned up inside the restaurant, you will is Neu-Venedig. Its serene streams are so well con- lulling sense of peace on the placid pe- never find your way out. cealed by the homes of the locals that you can walk lagic paths. Weeping willows along sec- for hours not realising that you have arrived until you tions of the bank kiss halcyon water that In all, Neu-Venedig makes for a unique happen upon a few rare bridges criss-crossing the has been neatly routed by the edge of and whimsical day out of the city with canals. Only then do you get a tantalising glimpse of the residents’ verdant, manicured lawns its quiet surroundings and local feel, the peaceful aqueduct- but sadly from afar as there into a byzantine maze of canals. Let the unspoilt by stereotypical sightseers, are no public paths running alongside the artificial sedate ride and effulgent environment which serves as a mollifying experience streams. purge you of the urban chaos that swirls that outshines the original Venice any around your mind like week-old swill. sun-filled day. (C. Thompson) To best appreciate the tranquillity of New Venice, Take on the persona of Theseus search- a boat is required. There are fortunately a number ing for the heart of this watery puzzle- of rental agencies up in Müggelsee. But at half the the Neu-Venedig Gaststätte.

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nightlife

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Bar 3 Club der Visionäre Anti Pub Crawl them. If you get a fun-sponge though, then that profanity on your wrist be- Am Flutgraben 1 Metzer Strasse 2 comes increasingly tempting to imprint Weydingerstrasse 20 i i on their face. The €10 gets you entrance Mitte i Treptow- Köpenick Prenzlauer Berg U-bahn: Schlesisches Tor. S- bahn: U-bahn: Senefelder Platz to all the bars and clubs and six free U-bahn: Rosa Luxemburg Platz shots, so value itself isn’t bad. Opening Times: 9:00pm - late (Tues. – Warschauer Straβe Meeting Time: 9:00pm (Mon. – Sun.) Sat.) Opening Times: 2:00pm (Mon. – Fri.), Price: €10 Sat.-Sun. 12:00pm If you declare yourself as something, then it’s normally a good idea to live up You meet a smokin’ German woman: Let’s be honest: a pub crawl usually Club der Visionäre, an outdoor club involves a rowdy bunch of tourists who it. As a general pub crawl it’s perfectly soft, blonde hair, beautifully thin face— fine, but it falls disappointingly short of and she (for some reason) agreed to situated on the Spree, is an oasis in the every other human being in a million heart of Berlin’s Treptow- Köpenick mile radius would gleefully gouge with what it could and possibly should be. go out with you. You make it through (R. Adams) dinner with only a few unfortunate district. It provides a great alternative a sharp metal object. The Anti Pub Crawl to the stuffy indoor clubs of Berlin, al- claims to provide a welcome antidote to voice cracks and mild sweat stains. But Living Room/Wohnzimmer now where do you take her? Bar 3 is a lowing you to breathe fresh air while this, going round the more ‘alternative sleek, chic, and affordable bar suitable enjoying a few drinks. Willow trees built venues’ of Berlin in small groups that for small groups of two or three. With- through the deck of the club, and exten- won’t inflame local sentiment. Lettestrasse 6 i out being overbearingly romantic, the sive seating along the Spree creates an Prenzlauer Berg intimate setting of Bar 3 complements earthy bar experience. During the day Beginning at Yesterday bar in Prenzlauer U-bahn: Eberswalder Strasse its contemporary vibe. The jazzy, fun Club der Visionäre is the perfect place to Berg, the inevitable Aussies, Americans, Opening Times: 9:00am - 4:00am music juxtaposes with its simple, lemon come and enjoy the sun on the wooden Brits and maybe a few exotic others (Mon. – Sun.) white walls and granite black bar. Cheap planks extending out over the water. mingle before being sent on their way. www.wohnzimmer-bar.de prices and bottles of wine to order make However, by night this tranquil day Branded with a charming stamp of “F*ck Bar 3 a perfect date night destination hangout turns into a bustling club with off” or “P*ss off” that designates your Tucked away in a corner of Prenzlauer or way to spend a classy night out with DJs, allowing visitors to dance into the drinking group, you are then taken to a Berg is this shabbily elegant hipster’s a few friends. Sitting too close to the early morning. But depending on the variety of venues, such as the absinthe home from home. Career students sip large, soup dish-sized ash trays is a new- DJ and the day of the week—weekends bar Druids, the student union look-a-like cocktails and discuss Dostoyevsky in the comer’s mistake, for bar-side buyable are busier, so be ready to wait in a long Frannz and the hilarious table tennis nooks and crannies of this relaxed bar, packs attract smokers and thicken the queue. And although seating is exten- tournament plus bar, Dr Pong. A guide the whole place emitting an atmosphere sive, on a busy night you will most likely leads you throughout and the quality of languid cool. Decorated like the living air above the hexagonal bar. (R. Cohen) be stuck without a seat. (A. Perkins) of your tour depends quite heavily on room of the title, candelabras provide a

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Inside houses two floors with a small soft evening light that glimmers off the but busy dance floor (mercifully not gold-sprayed walls. Threadbare chaise obsessed with techno) and a cock- longues lean gracefully in the corners, tail bar, which also serves coffee and keenly awaiting their reclining hipster cake throughout the day. Burgers and mistresses. hotdogs are also available from the grill The bar, assembled from a collection outside, as well as freshly made pizza. of kitchen cabinets, serves a standard Reasonable prices and a warm recep- selection of cocktails with an endear- tion make this an inviting sanctuary for ingly malfunctioning blender just about the weary traveller. (M.Burrows) mixing them together. A decent selec- tion of beers is also available. The music remains a soft and gentle background 2BE Club accompaniment, a nice change from ones that blare noise at you from all Klosterstraße 44 angles. Just hope you’re up to the level Mitte i of conversation that the crowd like to U-Bahn: Klosterstraße indulge in. Save your trip for the even- Opening Times: 11:00pm til late ing though, in the daytime things can Price: €10, Free entry before 12.30am be slow. (R. Adams) www.2be-club.de Prater Garden A haven for lovers of hip-hop, 2BE Club in Mitte describes itself ‘the most Kastianienalle 7-9 famous Hip-hop and Black music i club’, yet whether it refers to the best Prenzlauerberg With bars dotted on all four corners Heinz Minki in Berlin, the World, or just the best U-Bahn: Eberswalder Strasse of the garden and …types of beer to hip-hop club on Klosterstraße is up to Opening times: Daily from 12pm choose from, even the most avid beer Schlesischen Tor 3 you. Two rooms are there, one blasting www.pratergarten.de drinker will be satisfied. If you’re hungry Kreuzberg i mainstream ‘pop’, such as Beyoncé and after sinking a few tankards then you U-Bahn: Schlesischen Tor Ne-Yo, whereas the other room is for the If you are looking for an authentic beer can grab something to eat from the Opening Hours: 12:00am – late (Mon. – more hardcore hip hop fans with artists garden experience then look no further food kiosk, which offers a range of meals Sun.) like Hardcore T.I. and Three 6 Mafia get- than Prater, Berlin’s oldest beer garden. including soup, salads, jacket potatoes, www.heinzminki.de ting you to party the night away. The A spacious courtyard filled with rows burgers and (of course) bratwurst. upon rows of long wooden benches, the drink prices are standard in Berlin, €6 A large yet cosy bar and beer garden garden attracts a whole host of visitors. for a cocktail, €3 for a beer and around Staff are friendly; prices are standard situated alongside the river Spree, There are families going out for dinner, €5 for a mixer. The atmosphere was (around €3-4 for a beer) and the vibe Heinz Minki is the perfect stop off point groups going out for after work drinks, infuriatingly funky, reflecting the ghetto warm. If you fancy a beer this is the before the hustle and bustle of Club der couples on first dates, a whole host of tunes blaring out of the speakers, the obvious choice – your German summer Visionaire. people kicking back and relaxing in this club is sure to satisfy all hip-hop related experience starts here! An atmospheric, leafy beer garden chilled out atmosphere beneath the needs. People not fans of hip-hop and draped with fairy lights, make shift bars its musical relations, be wary, you will leafy greenery. N.B. Make sure you take some cash be- and a small stage with live music waits need to find another club for a more cause cards are not accepted here. outside - perfect for a relaxed summer- general clubbing experience. The decor (M.Burrows) time evening drink. 147 Bears, Beers and Bikes A Young Person’s Guide to Berlin 148

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isn’t anything special compared to including Munich’s finest Augustiner the industrial designs of Berghain and Pauläner brews, all for under or Tresor, but the club can still have €3.50. The light fixtures and other much to offer for the right people. interior elements are appropriately (J.Tomlinson) East German, but the environment of the club never veers into kitsch and Klub der Republik thankfully, unlike the old east side of the wall, your neighbour isn’t report- Pappelallee 81 ing to the Stasi how your drunken Prenzlauer Berg i self threatens state security. U-bahn: Eberswalder Strasse Opening Times: 8:00pm – 4:00am The DJ spins anything from 1960s (Tue. – Sun.) soul to jazz fusion to electronica, Price: €5.00 although occasionally it’s remixed into oblivion, the homogenous Berlin Most clubs in Berlin just don’t look techno bleep taking over the song like clubs. You approach them in you were previously enjoying. The hope rather than expectation, your bustling crowd on the dance floor intoxicated brain desperately hop- never seem to mind though. (R. Adams) ing that the seemingly non-descript concrete block in front of you is indeed the dance floor du jour. Klub der Republik falls firmly into this category. Above a music school and reached via a rickety staircase in the courtyard, finding it is a bit like searching for Shangri La. Don’t let that deter you though.

Once you finally man- age to reach it, you are greeted by a spacious bar that mixes the ‘best’ of the current retro design craze (think filing cabi- nets as tables) with an extensive beer selection at the bar,

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CTR July Master Final.indd 149-150 7/29/11 10:30 PM nightlife Bar 39 Lounge

39 Oranienstraße Kreuzberg i U-bahn / S-bahn: Kotbusser Tor. Opening Times: 4:00pm - 5:00am Price: €4 - €10 www.bar39.eu

Bar 39 is a small bar on Oranienstraße where on weekdays hap- py hour lasts all night long, meaning there’s plenty39 of opportu- nity to. It has a very relaxed atmosphere full of comfortable sofas and benches with cushions so you can relax. The place is quite dimly lit, with most of the light coming from the candles dotted around. Drinks start at around 4€, with the most expensive being about 10€. During happy hour the drinks are usually around the 4.50-5€ mark, which is allows you to sample one of their unusual frozen cocktails. Unfortunately, there is no space to dance but Bar 39 is a great place to kick back after a busy day of sightseeing if you’re in the Kreutzberg area. (M. Andrews)

Roses ters but in this club it doesn’t. Sparkling ROSES reflections of a disco balls fills the room 187 Oranienstraße with dotted lights, making the club a Kreuzberg i funky place for all kinds of people. Roses U-bahn/S-bahn: Kotbusser Tor. is good for those looking for something a little bit different.(M.Andrews) Opening Times: 9:30pm – 5:00am SO36 Price: €2- €4

If you like tiny but flamboyant, eccentric SO36 clubs then Roses is for you. Outside it really doesn’t look like much but you Oranienstrasse 190 i can hear a weird mix of electronica Kreuzberg music from inside, drawing you in. Once U-bahn: Kottbusser Tor you’ve climbed a few stairs you’re hit by Opening Times: 11:00pm – 6:00am techno beats and vibrant neon colours. (Thu. – Sun.) Pink fur covers the walls, which attracts Price: €3 - €5 a lot of people. A small door next to the www.so36.de bar takes you to a second room with small tables and extravagant decora- S036 is a club that has a reputation to tions including pictures of gay icons, live up to. A rich legacy and history lie stone faces sticking out of the wall and behind it: it was once the haunt of Iggy a statue of the Virgin Mary covered in Pop and David Bowie and also bears fairy lights. You may think that size mat- the historic postcode of Kreuzberg as its name, one synonymous with vitality and 151 Bears, Beers and Bikes A Young Person’s Guide to Berlin 152

CTR July Master Final.indd 151-152 7/29/11 10:30 PM nightlife Sage Club fee is worth it although getting in before 11pm guarantees free entry. The drinks diversity. Whether it succeeds in doing number of wallet-friendly happy hour are pretty much club standard in price, so is debatable. specials on offer this is a cocktail bar Köpenicker Straße 76 ranging from €5 or more for spirits and with character. Mitte i €3-4 for beer. Avoid paying however, for If you were expecting a spectacular U-Bahn: Heinrich-Heine-Straße the most minimal vodka mixer drinks venue, you’ll be disappointed. One long Order the drink which lends its name Opening Times: 10:00pm – 6:00am you may possibly find anywhere in the room with a bar and dance floor make to the establishment, a heady mix of (Thur.)11:00pm – 6:00pm (Fri. – Sut.) world, €6.50 for less than half a shot of up the bulk of S036, with the walls lit up Old Pascas Rum 73°, Absolut Vodka, Price: €6 - €11 vodka mixed with Coke definitely putsa by the same sort of tacky glow-in-the- De Kuyper Triple Sec, Brandy Osborne www.sage-club.de downer on the evening, which can be dark stars you put on your bedroom wall Veterano, Grenadine and mixers. Try not cured by a healthy strong Jack Daniel’s when an irrationally afraid eight year to look too terrified when the waitress Heavy metal fans, indie fans and gen- and Coke for the same price with a dou- old. Bursts of dry ice periodically spew drops a brown sugar cube into the top eral clubbers will love the Sage Club, ble measure. (J.Tomlinson) forth, obscuring the shame of those on of your drink (served in a glass bot- Every Thursday night, there are 3 levels the dance floor and making it seem like tle, naturally) and sets your beverage of ‘hardness’ for you to party in, long Top of the Pops circa 1978. ablaze. After you get over how mind- into the night. The entrance is clev- CakeClub blowingly strong the drink initially erly concealed within a Heinrich Heine The music played is diverse and de- tastes, you can enjoy your alcoholic ode Strasse U-Bahn entrance; showcasing Oranienstraße 31 pends on the night you attend (check to freedom fighters while watching a another example of the Germans putting Kreuzberg i ahead). It takes some prior intoxication looped recording of fish swimming in a a club in any space they can find. With U-Bahn: Kotbusser Tor time for the multiple Kreuzberg char- tropical tank. There may be hipper bars the varying rooms for you to rave or the Opening Times: 10pm – 4am acters that make up the surreal S036 in Kreuzberg but the relaxed atmos- back rooms to sit and chill and talk with Price: 2.00€ Weekends crowd to congregate, so don’t bother phere and the extensive drinks list make friends; and for the very adventurous, www.myspace.com/cakeclubberlin getting there much before 1am. Drinks this a place worth popping in to. a swimming pool is hidden in the back are all standard Berlin prices: €2 for a (I. Woodcock). rooms in a small grungy oasis. The entry A great alternative to a club, offering shot and €3.50 for a beer. all the fun without the painfully huge crowds, Cake is a small bar which opens S036 is an experience. It’s not the best its doors to everyone. Decorated in night you’ll ever go to, but it’s certainly flamboyant art, the aesthetic features are one you’ll never forget. (R. Adams) sure to please all. The vibrant bar offers a wide range of drinks with concentrated Molotow Cocktail Bar and effort put into the cocktail making. The music is eclectic ranging from the ob- Lounge scure German techno, to 60’s music and cheesy tunes you can sing along too. Oranienstraße 189 The tiny dance floor is always inhabited Kreuzberg i by those who wish to dance the night U-bahn: Kottbusser Tor away and it is a great place to immerse www.molotowcocktail.eu yourself in the German and Turkish cul- ture of the area. Despite it being a tiny Assuming that any bar named after a bar, beware of waiting a short time for homemade explosive device is probably drinks, the staff love to dance amongst worth checking out Molotow Cock- themselves, shunning rather loud calls tail is a must. Located on the bustling of “Entschuldigung!“ in favour of a short Oranienstraße in Kreuzberg and with a boogie. (J.Tomlinson)

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CTR July Master Final.indd 153-154 7/29/11 10:30 PM nightlife Palm Beach from 3- 9€ which includes flame-grilled burgers, filling pasta dishes and cool Spandauer Straβe, 4 ice-cream amongst others. Palm Beach, Mitte i although slightly mediocre, is a pleas- U-bahn: Alexanderplatz ant stop off on a sunny day in between Opening times: Daily 11:00am-2:00am sightseeing. (J.Rendall) Price: Drinks: €3-7, Food: €3-9

There’s nothing better than sipping Bahamas Bar cocktails on a sunny Sunday afternoon by the beach with friends, feeling the Pappelallee 11 i cool sea breeze gently blow against Prenzlauer Berg your face. Unfortunately for Berlin, U-Bahn: Eberswalder Straße there’s not a beach in sight, so you’ll Opening Times: 10:00pm – 2:00am (Sun. have to make do with one of their many – Thu.),10pm – 2am (Fri. – Sat.),10pm – artificial beach bars. 5am (Sun.) Located between Alexanderplatz and www.bahamas-cocktail.de Museum Island on Spandauer Straβe, Palm Beach offers visitors the chance A little piece of the nestled in to sunbathe with the sand in between Prenzlauer Berg offering the delights of their toes whilst watching trams and the beach within the city capital (sadly, busy traffic pass them by. Just a stone’s the sun may not always be around, but throw away from Museum Island, there who cares when alcohol is involved?). is also plenty of opportunities to people The floor is laid with sand so get your sandals out and drink in paradise. The tails brighten up this bank of the River watch as tourists rush to see the sites. Capital Beach Bar decor resembling a beach bar and mel- Spree. There is an open-air dance floor The bar offers an extensive cocktail low atmosphere will surely put you in alongside two silver, scaffolded bars. menu, all priced around 5-7€, and 5.50€ Ludwig Erhard Ufer a summery mood no matter what the Combined with the late closing hours during Happy Hour between 6pm- 2am Mitte i weather. A particularly nice treat for on weekends and the result is some every day. Soft drinks and beer are also S-bahn: Hauptbanhof when the rain hits Berlin, the smiling bar pretty wild nights. If dancing until dawn on the menu priced between 3-5€. Opening Times: 10:00am - 1:00am (Mon. staff will welcome you and serve fantas- isn’t your thing, the staff will serve you The bar offers friendly service from Eng- - Thu.), 10:00am - 3:00am (Fri. - Sat.) tic cocktail, from their wide repertoire, refreshing drinks and finger-food plat- lish speaking staff, and bar food ranging Price: €2.70 - €8.30 (drinks), €3.50 - €9.50 ters all day from the comfort of your (food) Spree-side deck chair, so no need to www.capital-beach.eu even move a muscle. Their helpfulness extends to providing lockers for any val- As you cross Gustav Heinemann Bridge, uables that you don’t want ending up in away from busy Hauptbanhof station, the Spree after sampling one too many you will immediately see Capital Beach of their 60 cocktails. This is a revitalising Bar, and the pace notably relaxes. For stop for a lunch hour, to take the weight what Capital Beach Bar lacks in sand off your feet and enjoy a beer (€3.50), and sea, it makes up for in atmosphere or in the evening, when club beats and and laid back vibe- rainbow deck chairs, palm trees and Caribbean-style cock- cocktails are abundant. (J.Hyndman)

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each tasting as delicious as the last. Be wary of getting sand in your shoes however! (J.Tomlinson)

Badeschiff

Eichenstraße Arena Berlin Treptow i U-Bahn: Schlesches Tor S-bahn: Treptower Park Opening Times: 8am – 12am Price: €3.00 - €4.00

Don’t be alarmed if, when you step onto Badeschiff’s deck, eager to enter the translucent pool, a lifeguard whips out his gun and shoots you. Granted, it’s only with a water pistol, but you absolutely must rinse off in the deck showers before leaping into Badeschiff. This hygienic rule as well as the sandy landscape, wooden dock, and on-the-beach bar attract Berliners and tourists alike to the floating pool of Berlin. In an effort to draw attention to the river Spree, the City Art Project Society (Stadtkunstprojekte) built Badeschiff in 2004. Most visitors choose to enjoy the lively spot during the day as a place to swim, sunbathe, and sip drinks. But true Badeschiff fans know that it is just as alluring in the evening: the pool glitters against the backdrop of the dark Spree River, making it a beautiful place to enjoy a silky breeze and a €3 beer. Live music, yoga lessons, and other events are scheduled throughout the day in the summer. If you’re looking for the complete relaxation experience, massages at a rate of 15 minutes for €10 are also available. No use bringing your own beverage to stay hydrated: Badeschiff’s doormen will check your bags and make you dispose of any bottles before entering to ensure a purchase at their pricey bar. Be sure to arrive early on sunny weekends in order to secure admittance without a queue. (R. Cohen)

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CTR July Master Final.indd 157-158 7/29/11 10:30 PM Decadence in Berlin

Forget the contemporary East Berlin hipster look where shaving your hair on one side and get- Blacklight Minigolf ting your septum pierced is radical, the real pioneers of all that is übercool originated in the roaring 20’s. Görlitzer Straße 1, Görlitzer Park, Haus 1 Kreuzberg In a decade where the German government legalised opium, U-bahn: Gorlitzer Bahnhof cocaine and prostitution, taboos were made to be broken, and with Opening times: 12pm - 10pm (Mon. – Fri.) characters such as Anita Berber frequenting Friederich Strauße, this 10am - 10pm (Sat. – Sun.) was relatively easy. Price: 4.50€ www.indoor-minigolf-berlin.de A German actress, dancer and prostitute, Berber spent much of her time sashaying around the streets of Berlin wearing nothing but heels, a fur sable Gorlitzer Park – Where Kreuzbergers congregate in the summer and a vial of cocaine, accompanied by her plethora of lovers (of either sex) to have bbqs, drink questionable spirits and play minigolf in the and pet monkey. Forever immortalised by Otto Dix, she remains an icon of the dark. ancient era of decadence, dancing and debauchery, which today lives on in a different form. Located in the basement under the Isa Mitz café at the Skalitzer cor- ner entrance to the park is Berlin’s own psychedelic answer to one Home to one of the most diverse clubbing scenes, Berlin has a club for all tastes. of life’s more relaxing sports. The 18-hole course is housed across Infamous for its hardcore techno/house scene, purist electronica fans can ven- five unique rooms all lit by UV light. The walls feature a wide vari- ture to an abundance of clubs, among the most famous Watergate, Tresor and ety of art including depictions of underwater seascapes and lunar Berghain, the latter a renowned Mecca for purist techno fans. landscapes as well as pictures of giant snails and the Silver Surfer, making for an experience that could fairly be described as ‘trippy’. For those wanting something more reminiscent of the Anita Berber era there is the KitKatClub. Tucked away in a corner of Kreuzberg, this labarynthian maze Not that you’ll spend too much time gazing at the artwork as of rooms including three dance floors witnesses wild, non-stop, ‘sexy’ parties you try to calm your competitive edge having fluffed your 14th all weekend. attempt at the (unbelievably dastardly) eighth hole. It takes about an hour for a group of four to play through and at Dress code is strict, and clientele are clad from head to toe in kinky just over the price of a large beer it is pretty good value. fetish gear, from pvc and latex to a headresses and nearly nothing at So if you’re at a loose end (and if the weather is less all. The walls are painted with obscene acts, UV lights illuminating than favourable) head underground to enjoy an the rooms. Music is mostly electronica and the atmosphere is experience that will frustrate and delight in laid back. Go here with an open mind and a willingness to equal measure. bare some flesh and you can have a good time, although things do seem to get a little depressing once (I. Woodcock) daytime comes and the harsh sunlight exposes those once mysterious dark corners.

(M.Burrows)

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Berghain Having looked suitably disinterested but they are barely visible in the throng After a while the music starts to induce of sweaty dancers, heads nodding and a coma like state and I stand spaced and Am Wriezener Bahnhof and quiet, the bouncer asks me how i many are in my group. I hold up a finger, limbs flailing, inhibitions and cameras swaying to the music, interrupted only Friedrichshain left at the door. Lights flash frantically by someone’s elbow crashing into my U- Bahn: Ostbahnof eins. He nods and I am admitted and subjected to a bag/body search, be- as the DJs continue to spin their vinyl arm and thrusting my beer bottle into Opening times: Sat 12am - Mon 9am way on into Sunday morning, there is no my front tooth, chipping it immediately. Prices vary fore having to pay the expensive cover charge. sign of the party ending. Perturbed I make my way back to the http://www.berghain.de/ main dance floor, passing people sleep- Inside I am engulfed by darkness and The blinds periodically open letting in ing on benches and getting steamy in Looking up at the imposing concrete daylight and an amazing view of East dark corner booths. building before me, the anxiety in the waves of thudding electronic music, a wall of pounding, tinnitus inducing Berlin and the crowd cheers – they are air is tangible. I’ve been queuing for two oblivious to the time or day, some have I stumble out into the day light around hours and am starting to lose feeling in techno beats. Taking the stairs to the cavernous main dance floor I am struck been here over 24 hours already. Clien- 10am, dazed, confused and ready for my fingers and toes, the sun is starting tele are a mix of age and background, a döner. A surreal but highly recom- to come up and my teeth are chatter- by the sheer size of the building. Actu- ally an old power station, 18 metre high though the vast majority are gay white mendable experience, not for the faint ing but I clench my jaw and will myself shirtless men in their late twenties. hearted. to continue. A sea of people stretches ceilings house the minimalist steel and out before me, shuffling forward every concrete club interior, bare and uninvit- (M.Burrows) twenty minutes or so, edging slowly ing, not a mirror to be seen. closer to one Germany’s most notorious clubs – Berghain. Winding my way through the seem- As the entrance comes into view I ingly infinite crowd witness the infamous door policy up another staircase I in action. A pair of menacing reach the more bouncers guard the door, survey- house orientated ing those in the queue and deem- Panorama Bar on ing those worthy of entrance; it is the second floor. an ugly sight. Colossal Wolf- gang Tillmans photographs line the walls

B

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Tresor Nightclub

Köpenicker Strasse 70 Kreuzberg i U-Bahn: Heinrich-Heine- Straße Opening times: 11:59pm Price: Varies

Tresor nightclub is not the place to go to if you suffer from a weedy heart. But if you are in the mood to have your body move with the techno beats then head to this legendary club in Kreuzberg for a night of electronic insanity. Like most Berlin clubs the door staff can be picky at times but the entry cost of €7 (Wednesday night) is a mild price to pay for entrance into one of the city’s best known underground clubs.

Upon entering, wander through the dark tunnels to find your way into the main room. All you feel is the gentle tremor of the floor caused by the heavy bass unleashed by the speakers inside. Dry ice clouds float within the club and strobe lights illuminate the dance floor every few seconds to create surreal fantasy mo- ments for every raver.

Prices at the bar start at around €3 for a shot but if you’re after a water to keep you going then prepare to spend around the same amount for a small bottle – hardly ideal for a parched throat. Unfortunately Tresor has become a hub for tour- ists who seek the German techno experience. This group can often be found in the shop downstairs which sells t-shirts and jumpers (both around €19). (A. Stanton)

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CTR July Master Final.indd 163-164 7/29/11 10:30 PM Meet the Team Jack Tomlinson The master of lowering the tone always found a way to Aaron Perkins make everyone laugh, even if we felt bad doing so. Al- ways the height of ‘style’ with his sonic blue swept fringe, If Aaron were a soda, he would be Mello Yello; a movie his command of Denglish was unparalleled, bringing Ger- character, imagine “The Dude;” a sport, baseball. Mary- man and English together in bastardised harmony with Jane toking surfers on the beaches of California look at cries of “fick mein Leben”. Jack Tomlinson, the northern him and exclaim: “Damn, he’s chilled!” A man of few broad with a heart of gold. muttered words, but each one of great importance, so listen hard. Jaimielee Rendall

With her lovely, wide smile, contagious laugh and love Aimée Stanton for the smell of Earl Grey Tea, Jaimielee is the source of all hilarity. Through her wacky ways she introduced us to the One-third of our fabulous layout team, Aimee can be concept of ‘getting totally Jaimielee’d’ which is some- spotted loitering around vintage shops and various bars thing everyone should experience once in their life. around Kreuzberg having a wee bit of a tipple! A star journalism student at Edinburgh Napier University, Aimee Ian Woodcock does the Scots proud with her Indie Rock and Roll lifestyle and the ability to cover up her smelly feet! The man to have around if you couldn’t finish a meal, he Cameron Thompson survived on a diet of left overs and pasta. His brand of humour often took some explaining, as did his unique take on the English language. Always on the lookout for ‘important buildings’. To sum him up in one word: Hippopotomonstrosesquipedaliaphile. Jenny Hyndman

Don’t be fooled by the rocks that she’s got - she’s still she’s still Jenny knitting socks... Her writing has a distinct Catherine Preusse flavour, much like the pistachio of her cherished, daily ice cream. Bombastic and sarcastic is the way that she writes. She Jenni Myung spits raps from our flat about this wild city life. Getting high off of bingo and drinkin’ G&T’s, this grandma is out in Berlin reppin’ the Boston g’s. Photo and layout editor Jenni is a whirlwind of productiv- ity. Never afraid to ask questions and do her thang, Jenni made us all feel lazy with her jam-packed schedule. When she’s not working, you’ll find her busy taking photos or pulling some crazy moves on the dancefloor to her beloved hip hop. 165 Bears, Beers and Bikes

CTR July Master Final.indd 165-166 7/29/11 10:30 PM Joseph Hawkins Phil Ellis

Middlesbrough born and bred, this giant from the Phil was seated in an arm chair wearing pajama bottoms North East was the layout guru. Joe survived on a diet of that were cloaked in cartoons and drinking tea. It was my omelettes and ‘mystery fish.’ The self-proclaimed king of first encounter with this man, and knew that he would be Mario Kart was also adept at rap star impersonations. a genuine “dude”. This assumption was not far off. A laid back man, he was, and with a seductive guitar playing ability, this man lit up any room he entered.

Maddy Andrews Rachel Cohen

A true Northern lass, Maddy will win you over with her It’s not this Jersey Girl’s fake tan that’s dark—it’s her ama- bawdy banter and a smile as big as her... smile. The only tory, creative metaphors and reputation for being “The thing greater than her commitment to journalism is Dark Horse.” In the next season, this newest member of her fondness for a well made cup of tea and her stellar the cast will be known for her disappearing Songify recordings. Just don’t let her near your camera. acts and being an (apple)juice head.

Maria Pochard Richard Adams

The sole French member of the group - one month A well spoken Birmingham lad living in London, his Maria quietly let the insanity of Australia, England and knowledge of German helped many survive the daily America wash over her. As a journalistic novice she horrors of the language barrier. If you ever need him, find certainly put herself to the test. We compliment her for him at obscure museums or busy in the kitchen burning hunting down French food in a strictly Turkish cuisine food. To know him, is to understand. area and for surviving four weeks with Marie and Emma, offering nothing short of a smile every time! Sinéad Gleeson Marie Burrows Think of a female Dara O’Briain, Sinéad is both clever and witty; her one liners will come out of nowhere. While Her name is Marie Burrows and she’s not one of your av- enjoying Sinéads banter, you can join her in her favourite erage Joes. Drinking tea from a gravy boat she’s a big fan past time, eating ham. Her very Irish claim to fame is that of the Berlin tote (bag). Richtig is word that I bet you’ve she went to school with Jedward. heard her blurt but don’t worry she doesn’t hurt (much). A London gangster, if you want to meet her she’ll be jumping through ya fenster! (NB. Fenster is window in German)

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