MaldivesSea Safari An indepth guide Text and photography by Michael Aw

30 X-RAY MAG : 28 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Close up of sea ane- mone; jewel islands of the ; three spot angelfish hovers over lush pink corals; luxury livea- Maldives travel board ; sea turtle swims through sun rays

One thousand and 192 islands, The islets with names such as Kuda Huraa, For the intrepid diver, a live-aboard trip islets and sand cays string the Maayafushi, Kurumba, Ihuru, Kanifinolhu, is the obvious option to explore the best Nakatchafushi and Feshu are themselves dive sites of underwater Maldives. In 1996, 26 of the Maldives; from exotic, magical, romantic, only limited for the Rainbow Sea project, I embarked the air they float like emerald to one’s imagination of fantasy that upon my first live-aboard or safari as is necklaces flung upon a cobalt may become reality. The atolls, each commonly known in this country of infinite blue sea. Sitting right on the composed of uncountable submarine horizon. With friends, we started our sojourn reefs and islets fringed with glistening white from Male across to Rashdoo, Ari trade route of the early Arab sand beaches. then back to, Felidhoo, South and North merchants, the human history No other tropical isles or dream-like atolls Male atolls onboard a replica of an 18th of these islands dates back rival these remarkable gems of the Indian century galleon. For the entire expedition some 15 centuries. The Maldives Ocean. Some islands are adorned with lush foliage of archipelago comprises of coconut palms and banyan uncountable submerged reefs trees while others are just call thila in ‘dhivehi’—the local powdery white sand islets with waving palms. language—stretching 760km Well-traveled writers north to south and 120km from describe the country as east to west. This natural barrier sexy, exotic and alluring; of walls beneath the sea has a setting for the romantic, the adventurer and the evoked fear among even the explorer—an expanse most seasoned of seaman since of sea, of open sky that time immemorial; for them, it is a canopies one of the richest place to be avoided—a place celebrations of life beneath the seas. where careless ships go to die. PREVIOUS PAGE: Underwater photographer and school of bright yellow Blue-striped Snappers 31 X-RAY MAG : 28 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Maldives

we were blessed with mirror flat seas; we divers visiting the Maldives, the European dived into a school of hammerheads, rules. Apart from the Red Sea, the Maldives swam with two gianormous whale sharks, is their escape from the maddening played with spinner dolphins, spent three crowds. Blue water, spectacular marine hours with mantas, tunas—big tunas— life and ease of diving have made the turtles, napoleon wrasse, boisterous Maldives the Mecca for the European. sharks, snappers and more snappers in Supported by 95 dive resorts, and just uncountable numbers were sighted on about the same number of live-aboard almost every dive. dive vessels, there are options to suit The highlight was, of course, the orcas every whim and fancy. Much like the that came alongside our boat one resorts, standards on safari boats varies early dawn in South Male atoll, the first considerably. While the quality of diving recorded sighting of a pod in the Maldives. may differ dramatically from atoll to atoll Sightings over our 11-day expedition were and island to island during the year, the extraordinary. Our experiences were the standard and skills of the diving operations stories divers’ dreams are made of. are varied suiting the type of clientele Since then, I have been back for several they service best. Obviously, choosing the more safaris on a few different boats to ‘right’ live-aboard is an important issue, produce feature documentaries, videos which may turn one’s dream holiday into a or just a feature assignment for diving nightmare. Careful planning is essential. CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: An ador- magazines. I was fortunate that all my Though there are now quite a few that able little orange blenny, about the safaris in the Maldives were productive, are locally owned and managed, the size of a green pea, peeps out of its pleasant and memorable. However, I have majority of safari boats have a definite hole; diver and huge Napoleon wrasse; had reports from many first timers that their European flavor, dedicated entirely to vibrant pink, purple and yellow soft cor- trip was far short of expectation. serving either the German, Italian, Swiss or als decorate the reefs of the Maldives; For us folks from the Asia Pacific, we must French clientele. While some are relentlessly jumping into paradise from the pier first understand that in the mainstream of Western, others offer local Maldivian curry

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Beware, the Maldives is like eating M&Ms —addictive—once is never enough. BELOW: Bigeye fish

Dive safari boats are par- ticularly “photographer friendly”. They will dive the well-known sites at times when there are never any other divers around

solely for variation sake. Don’t expect opulent class specially built live-aboards In the past few years, the number of authenticity, quality varies from canned like that of the Four Season’s Island boats offering extended trips around food or basic buffet to fine dining. Explorer. Expect to pay about USD 190 the atolls has increased exponentially. Many boats are small; cabins are at for an above average class boat; pick Luckily, there are now a few good ones best toilet-sized cubicles, but there are one of any less, and you will be likely to dedicated to serve the serious divers. always generous sun decks for those find yourself sharing space with a boat With careful planning and by asking the who insist on returning roasted. load of laid back European taxi drivers. right questions before committing to Except for a few vessels that make Remember, you will only get what one, you can be sure of a memorable the effort to market to the USA and you are paying for. Again, I emphasize safari adventure in the Maldives. Asia, the majority are dominated by generally the concept and style of I have personally tested the MV client of one nationality—though this service is predominantly European, with Guilia, Island Explorer 7, MV Sea Queen, tends to be a result of marketing, rather a laid back attitude amidst a relaxed Sea Spirt, and MV Manthiri and find than coincidence. As I mentioned atmosphere of sun, beer and sleep, that they are most suitable for the earlier, book into one that is not your and if the spirit moves, maybe one or enthusiastic divers. A Peter Hugh boat kind, and though mostly unintentional, two dives per day. If you are a die-hard has just recently begun operation this discrimination can be obvious. diver, these are the boats to avoid. season. These days, the safari boats range However, if serious diving is of primary Life on board these boats are the from cattle class converted from fishing concern, a diving safari through the typical cliché when talking about world boats, locally built cruisers, to the Maldives is definitely the way to go. class live-aboard diving—dive, eat,

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CLOCKWISE FROM BELOW: Clown fish in anemone; Manta ray silhouette; garden with anthias; View of the Maldives from transport boat on arrival; Water planes are available for transfers

offer video The elegant Explorer Suite boasts and E6 pro- expansive panoramic windows, cessing ser- measures �������������������������45 square���������������������� meters, featur- vice. ing a king bed, daybed and indoor If you dining area. Of course, all these ever feel like come with a price tag to match. indulging in One unique approach that is the lifestyle common to all live-aboard boats of the rich in the Maldives is that the diving sleep, dive, eat, sleep… and famous, is always done off a traditionally- After the first dive is a book the crafted dhoni boat, which follows hot breakfast, a quick 40 Four Season’s the main vessel like a puppy dog. winks, a dive at about Island Explorer. Compressors, tanks and dive gear 11am, followed by lunch, The cabin stay on the dhoni for the entire trip. a longer snooze, a dive at of the vessel They serve strictly as a dive platform, about 2:30 pm, followed boasts hotel- as well as a pick up boat. This is an by a snack, and if you feel sized rooms excellent idea and a hard act to up to it, a night dive before measuring 20 follow elsewhere; compressor noise is dinner and back to bed. square meters not exactly music neither to ears nor These vessels are neatly furnished, raphers appreciate not having to lavishly furnished with contemporary lullaby for that all-important snooze with the comfort of en-suites, share the reef with “ferry” loads of teak wood and complemented by between dives. individual control air conditioning, divers from other boats and resorts. soft furnishings of of subdued tones. Unless otherwise pre-arranged, hot water, and offer everything from Rinse tanks for cameras are sensi- All cabins are air-conditioned and most dive safaris begin and end at fine wine and palatable Western bly positioned along side an outdoor feature twin beds (that can be con- the airport. For those flying out in the cuisine to Asian delights. shower. Work area and storage verted to a king bed), couch, writing evening, the afternoon may be an These boats are also particularly areas for cameras are lavish and desk, mini bar, satellite TV, VCD and ideal chance to visit Male. Transfer “photographer friendly” by diving one can choose to recharge batter- music system, telephone, in-cabin by dhoni to Male, the country’s the well-known sites at times when ies in the cabins or in the saloon. The safe and en-suite bathroom with Capital Island, from the airport costs there are never any other divers better boats are now installed with large bath tub/shower, and double US$5 and is well worth a visit if you around. I am also sure non-photog- a digital studio and some extend to vanity. have a spare afternoon.

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The myriad of life in every imaginable and unimaginable colour and form is signature of underwater Maldives rivaled nowhere else in intensity. The bazaar of downtown Male offers nothing on one of the most idyllic islands on can be classified into two groups: dives souvenirs catering to every tourist’s fancy earth. outside the atoll and dives inside the and delight; hand painted T-shirts, fish atoll. designed playing cards, fish guides, cheap Insight into Safari Diving Dives outside the atolls are generally sculptures, postcards, coconut monkeys Though many of the dive sites in the done during an outgoing , where and silverware are all on bargain as long as Maldives are suitable for inexperienced visibility is better than inside the atoll. the exchange is for Uncle Sam’s dollars. divers, raging and unpredictable down Typical terrain is a steep slope that goes If you are arriving early for a safari trip, currents have through the years been down in steps or a wall that plunges overnight stay at the airport hotel or one in responsible for many diving accidents. into dark abyssal depths. These are the Male may be required. Note: do not bring A safety sausage with an 8m line sites for great pelagics, hammerheads, any duty free alcohol into the Maldives—it attached to the opening should be eagle rays and whale sharks. Stick close will be confiscated on arrival. You will not a mandatory accessory for all divers. to the reef unless you wish to hitch a find a single bar or bottle shop in Male Especially diving in area known for boat ride to Burma or Africa—both are a long either. But don’t despair, most safari boats traffic, you should first deploy the safety way away. are licensed to sell beers and fundamental sausage 5m from the surface. This will warn Dives inside the atoll are on the inner unbelievable abundance are predictable dives. The ocean flushes into the atoll and liquor mixes. boaters of the presence of divers in the reef and submerged reefs dives. Generally, at these sites and as most are territorial out again through these channels. Like a To make the most of every diving day on water, as well as attract the attention of they are safe and easy diving for all species, familiar faces are found in each great plumbing system, each incoming a safari, it is a good idea to stay for a day the pick up boat. levels, especially when they are not in place year after year unless otherwise brings clean, nutrient rich water while or two in one of the resorts near Male to off With the exception of a few sites, most of the vicinity of a channel and are dived exploited by selfish and bad human beings. outgoing wash out the dirty water. gas as well as to practice the art of doing the diving in the Maldives is drift dives that with an incoming current. Reef fishes in Diving in the channels are high- Obviously, the best time to dive these

35 X-RAY MAG : 28 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Rainbows above the sea rival rainbow reefs below the waves; Lobsters guard their vibrantly coloured territories; BELOW: Two remora fish catch an easy Maldives travel ride on the underside of a Manta channels is during incoming tide when current direction. visibility is at the optimum to watch On one of my trips, a Maldivian pelagics, tunas, jacks and sharks predicted incoming tides hanging out to feed at the mouth of for all the three channel dives within the channels. a ten-hour period for the next day of The best staging area to watch the diving. A law professor challenged show is close to the reef but away from the briefing. His ego was reduced to the mouth of the channel at a 20–30m a smitten the next day after the third depth. If caught in the incoming dive. There is a moral somewhere in current too soon, especially in this story—listen to your divemaster, shallower depths, you will miss the show especially if he is Maldivian. Inside the entirely but the ride is guaranteed to atolls, water often runs in or out long give the adrenaline a work out. after the tide has turned. Precise and The currents in the Maldives long term data on tidal ranges, flows defy even the most experienced and patterns are non-existent in the oceanographer. The theory of the Maldives. ‘seven and a quarter hour’ tidal Beware, the Maldives is like eating change cannot be used to predict the M&Ms—addictive—once is never time for slack water and change of enough. The myriad of life in every

imaginable and unimaginable colour a realm of reef fishes in extraordinary the name. Because of the profusion of and form is signature of underwater abundance. I call the Maldives the multi-coloured reef life on this reef, it is also Maldives rivaled nowhere else in intensity. fish pond of the Indian Ocean. Since commonly known as the Rainbow Reef. If I had to choose three words to describe 1996, I have made at least one yearly Between the tides, an enormous flow the diving in Maldives, they would be pilgrimage to the Maldives, and I will not of water oozes through this thila. Jacks, “predictably great” and “abundance”. hesitate a second time each year. Blue striped (Lutjanus kasmira) snapper, Underwater Maldives is remarkably Once DIVE, a UK-based dive magazine, groupers and fusiliers indulge in a sea of different from the surface—a metropolis asked me to name the top ten dive sites nutrients. Lurking amidst the corridors of a of never ending reefs composed of in the Maldives. It was a huge task! After luxuriant coverage of iridescent corals are ridges, mountains, valleys, and fjords, much deliberation, I chose ten sites that I red coral groupers, giant cods, Napoleon columns and chasms extending right will religiously turn to each year, as I can wrasse, and scorpionfish. Eagle rays are out to the edge of the atolls. Outer predictably say that I will find mantas, often seen soaring majestically near the atoll slopes or walls plummet steeply to huge Napoleon wrasse, sharks, sea turtles, surface, undeterred by swift moving oceanic mountains, and the mountains lush soft corals at these sites, and where water. This is one of my favorite dives in themselves drop to abyssal depths of 2km I am not sure of the number of whale the world! and beyond. sharks have swam right pass me when my With swift currents, the substrate on the Because the Maldives sit in the middle focus was on shooting an orange blenny reef top is typical of such environs, hard of the Indian Ocean, great migratory the size of a green pea! corals abound with anthias frolicking currents flow through the atolls, leaving among stumps of green coral trees. From behind rich plankton to procreate. Like Top 10 15m to 25m, carpets of red, yellow, irides- an oasis in a desert sea, pelagics often Following are ten dive sites not to be cent purple soft corals, orange sponges drop in to check out the local scene. missed on a Maldives Safari trip. and cup corals cover the outcrops and Hammerheads, whalesharks, tunas and overhangs, from wall to wall, from floor Oceanic white tips are frequent visitors. Rainbow Reef or HP Reef to ceiling. The plethora of soft corals in Tidal currents flushing through the North Male Atoll. Nearest Resort: purple, yellow, orange, pink, red, white channels brings a constant food source Maldives Four Seasons at Kuda Huraa. and blue explodes like paint splash over into the atolls, sustaining spectacular My assumption is that HP is short for ‘high three enormous coral heads and over- soft coral growth, which in turn supports power’ as the dive has a lot to do with hangs. With such a profusion of corals

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LEFT TO RIGHT: Lobster; Schools of barracudas and jacks are predictably found between coral heads; Divers inspect lush overhangs laden with coral; Diver finds a group of Oriental Sweetlips hovering in a cave

OKOBE Thila realise that animals of the ocean have divers of the Maldives. North Male Atoll. indeed a memory, and are capable of Just before the Nearest Resort: Bandos responding and playing just like any of us. sunrise, schooling This site comprises of three coral If left alone, these fish live up to 50 years in hammerhead heads, the largest—an ox-bow the wild. sharks (Sphyra shape—is 265 ft (80m) in length, A cavern beneath the most easterly lewini) emerge from separated from the two smaller coral head is home to a resident group the depths to this mounts by a 100ft(30m) wide and of 20 or so Oriental Sweetlips. Schools of corner on queue 80ft (25m) deep canyon. A family barracudas, batfish, surgeonfishes and each morning. of three Napoleon Wrasses are jacks are predictably found hovering Chances of seeing in kaleidoscopic colours, Rainbow Reef is resident on this reef. Apparently, German between coral heads. The flow of nutrients them are good, but aptly named. divers seeking soul mates in a most unlikely feeds the reef; green tubastrae coral without daylight, it However, it is after dark that the reef place befriended this family by feeding branch out among outcrops of luscious soft makes publishable images tough. They Nassimo Thila really shows its true colours; the orange them hard-boiled eggs. The feeding of any coral highlighted with tapestries of orange, are known to turn up in big numbers. Big North Male Atoll. Nearest Resort: Paradise and yellow tubastrae blooms along side marine animal has since been banned by purple and green Anthias fish, covering the Dog-tooth tunas (Gymnosarda unicolor) The main attraction of this thila is the series plethora of soft corals in every conceivable the authorities, but these gregarious fish still walls of the canyon in entirety. Not all dives and Dolphinfish (Crayphaena hippurus) of large pinnacles scattered just off the colour with their tentacles outstretched to see terra firma beings as a source of a free at Okobe Thila are great—some are only also lurk at the reef edge together with reef on the northeastern side. Purple and feed in the night current. While parrotfishes hand out. They are known to follow divers good. schools of black snapper to feed in the yellow soft corals like marshmallows cover sleep, the nocturnal morays are seen on for an entire dive. To get them close, really morning current. There are many other the surface and overhangs in entirety. the prowl for an unwary fish or lobster. If I close, just hold out your hand and wave Rasdhoo — Madivaru Corner Hammerhead points in the Maldives, but Napoleon Wrasse and jacks are frequently were to do one last dive in the Maldives, it secretly with cupped hand before hiding it North Ari Atoll. Nearest Resort: Kuramathi Rasdhoo is the most well known. found swimming in unison among corridors would be a night dive on Rainbow Reef. again. We were contented to once again This site has its fame amongst seasoned full of Squirrelfishes and Orange Fairy

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Scorpionfish are found in abundance. pelagic action in the sea. The staging offers a swift 2km ride into the channel Nassimo Thila is another one of the area is outside the atoll. Drop into the in 3-4 knot current. Guraidhoo offers best dive sites in the Maldives. Drop reef slope to about 25m and head more of a roller coaster ride; a me there any day, I may just find my towards the mouth of the channel whirlpool effect cause by numerous camera. cautiously. Believe me, you will know overhangs tends to drag divers up when you get there. Best viewing and down during the journey into Guraidhoo Kandu area: hang out at about 28m and the atoll—stay close to the reef at all & Embudhoo Express watch the greatest show on Earth. times. South Male Atoll. Nearest Resorts: Flocks of eagle rays soar like Stealth Fun Island, Kandooma and bombers, grey and white tip sharks in Kuda Giri Embudhoo Village. With 4-6 knot uncountable numbers whiz back and South Male Atoll. current conditions, these sites are for forth the entrance while jacks, tunas, Nearest Resort: Palm Tree Island experienced divers only. Beware, rainbow runners and fusiliers engage This is an excellent dive site for both the current boils on the surface on in a chaotic melee right in front of day and night dives. Situated on the both channels. Must be dived during you. Look out for a couple of large leeward side of a large reef, there is incoming current to see the pelagics. tame Napoleons, they are so to speak little current. This coral head is almost Embudhoo Express and Guraidhoo local identities at the site—familiar perfectly round with a vertical wall Kandu are easily the most exhilarating faces that you can look upon for reaching a depth of 30m. Kuda Giri Basslets. Towards the right of the dives in the Maldives in terms of pure comfort when the going gets tough. is one of my personal favorites for pinnacles is a long cavern system adrenaline rush. Both dives are a Masks are known to have flown. many reasons; there are a few swim between 15m and 20m lusciously challenging experience, testing skills Once bored with the show or when through caves between 10–15m LEFT TO RIGHT: Clownfsh guard their anemone home; hard corals decorated with blue soft corals in current conditions to the extreme, air is down to 100 bars, take off for a with their entire wall covered with decorate the reef; underwater photographer visits with Manta ray; and sea fans. Red Groupers and but the reward is some of the best ride of your life. Embudhoo Express yellowed sponges, soft corals, oyster beautiful bouquets of white, orange and yellow soft corals dangle from an overhang

38 X-RAY MAG : 28 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED LEFT: Neon organge Anthias are abundant on the coral reefs travel BELOW: Bright yellow, red, pink and orange soft coral display Maldives abundance on this reef is While schools of Snappers search for prey is felt in wave after incredible. The thila is about 80 and Batfish hover beneath coral wave of electrifying melee. Even meters in diameter and can be trees, lone Great Barracudas the bold divers are on guard. easily circumnavigated in one play havoc with the fusiliers. Blue- Moray eels are seen leaving their dive—that is if you can resist other faced angelfish, Clown triggerfish, holes to search for unsuspecting distractions. Blue triggerfish, Dog-tooth tuna, prey. Octopuses are sighted in The top of the reef starts at six Hawksbill turtles, jacks, moray eels, ambush position for a shellfish in meters, sloping to 12m, before stonefish, and Anglerfish are all passing. Marble Rays appear out dropping to beyond 30m. Caves, part of the ensemble that make of the dark to sweep on sand overhangs and ledges are found this reef one of the greatest in the patches for shellfishes, bloating up all along the reef wall. Though Maldives. occasionally when they land on an solidly built, Grey Reef sharks are The best action is always found ill- fated prey. common, but it is the number of on the side that faces into the I was so impressed with Maaya White-tip sharks that are impressive. currents. Beg on your knees to do Thila that I have selected the They are everywhere. a night dive on this reef—it is a site to be the location for my first Millions of anchovies disperse highlight of anyone’s diving career. feature documentary—a 24-hour and regroup to form a variation of In terms of action, Maaya Thila is documentation about life on a shapes stealing the show from the dramatic after dark. Sharks seem coral reef system. Mayaa Thila is a Grey sharks and their companions, to zoom in from every direction. marine protected area. the Rainbow Runners. Their sense of urgency and hungry

shells and are home to numerous Best dive during in-coming current; On the eastern side of the Big-eyed soldier fish. Some of most if caught in an outgoing, surface channel is Fotteyo Falhu, a fringing photogenic clownfish I have ever close to the outer reef. This dive is a reef rising to a sand cay; the seen live at the mouth of these real treat, regarded by many as the coral formation appears to be swim-throughs. Most of them are of best in the Maldives. I have dived untouched. Prolific large coral the Clarkii species, but their choice this site six times and have fought to plates are scattered over the reef of home (anemones with white absorb each impression. Immense slope as far as the eye can see. tentacles), makes them look like has a whole new meaning. Beware of accidentally playful ermines in snow. Beware, Fotteyo has many possibilities; wandering into ‘Trigger Valley’, a ill-tempered moray eels live among schooling jacks, tunas, sharks, turtles, sand cay on the right side of the them. Napoleon, snappers. But what channel. Titan Triggerfish by the Around the giri, groups of friendly make Fotteyo special is the series hundreds are local denizens, and batfish are predictably found of caves between 25–40 m which they are mean and foul-tempered. hovering near the surface. Turtles, are covered by some very unique They attack divers for no rhyme or Nurse sharks and White-tips take soft corals not found in similar form reason. refuge within the many caverns or abundance any where else in If you make an effort to rise around the giri. If you like wrecks, the Maldives or in the world. The before daybreak, Fotteyo is another there is a very well behaved steel thick, lush soft yellow and purplish hammerhead point. I was keen wreck in perfect condition, sitting soft corals are overgrown in to see them, and predictably, upright from 20 to 35m. Kuda Giri exaggerated fashion. we found them, or they found us, is an extremely productive site for These caverns have been drifting in the blue at half past six in underwater photographers. described by guidebooks as the the morning. cherry caves of the Maldives. Fotteyo Their intensity and lushness often Mayaa Thila Felidhoo Atoll. enthralls the first timer; prepare to Ari Atoll. Nearest resort: Mayaafushi Nearest Resort: Alimathaa be breathless on first sight. In terms of fish life, the sheer

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Cod, Triggerfish, Pufferfish and Pipefish to April. The staging area is the outer reef, south in various combinations of colours lurk side of Rangali Kandu. During the northeast among the corals and gaps. monsoon, this is the best manta point in the Moving through this gap in a slow Maldives. During outgoing current, the mantas— current, subliminally evokes feelings of a big mantas—are found swimming up and down journey through an artist’s paint box. This the reef slope to feed on nutrient rich water from site bears its name from the international within the atoll. Descend to the reef edge about Pantone Colour Matching system (PMS 10m, swim along with the edge. Mantas are seen colour) used by graphic designers, here enjoying themselves at cleaning stations as printers, painters all over the world. The well as dancing blithsomely in the blue. Attempts PMS swatches comprise of more than to approach them will make them swim away; 500 colours varying in hue and contrast. just hover and watch, and in most instances, Panettone is the most colour intense they will swim right up to you to meet eye to eye. Panettone dive in the Maldives. A school of Giant Trevally This is one special place in the Maldives where Ari Atoll. Nearest resort- Moofushi (Caranx ignobilis) is denizen of Panettone, big gentle animal encounters are predictably Panettone sits in the middle of Kalhahandhi though not necessary attracted by the colours good. On a few occasions, I have seen flocks of Kandu. As water flushes back and forth, this giri but the bottomless pantry of tasty morsels. The 30 to 50 Mobula rays flying in formation through receives replenishment on a continuous basis. channels are ideal country to look out for reef this reef. But the reef top here is a good enough A long overhang between 12m to 25m along sharks, Dog-tooth Tunas, Eagle Rays and Mantas. reason to distract one’s attention from the the reef wall is covered floor to ceiling with a mantas—find turtles, clownfish, octopus, schools plethora of multi-colored soft corals, sea fans, Madivaru/ Manta Point of Bannerfish, Powder Blue Surgeonfish plus a sea whips, and sponges. Squirrelfish, Angelfish, Ari Atoll. Nearest Resort: Hilton Rangali school of over three thousand bright yellow Blue- LEFT TO RIGHT: Manta rays enjoy cleaning stations on the reefs where Fairy Basslets, Butterflyfish, Scorpion-fish, Coral The season for manta at this site is from January striped Snappers. ■ cleaner fish tend to them; swirling school of Blue-striped snappers; fun in the sun is ample on a tradition Maldivian boat called a ‘dhoni’ 40 X-RAY MAG : 28 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Ihavandhippolhu Thiladhunmathee Atoll RIGHT: Location of Atoll the Maldives Islands Miladhunmadulu Maamakunudhoo Atoll on global map Atoll FAR RIGHT: Map of Foodhippalhu Arabian Sea Atoll Maldives Islands Maalhosmadulu factMaldives file Atoll Goidhoo Atoll Male Atoll Ari Atoll 100 mi Male 100 km Felidhoo sources: Yann saint yves, michael aw, Atoll US cia world fact book, SCUBADOC.COM Nilandhoo Atoll Malaku Indian Atoll Ocean Archaeologists conclude that multi-party system were held. Mohamed agriculture and manu- Kolhumadulu History Atoll the Maldives Islands have been a port Nasheed, a political activist previously facturing, which conti- Hadhdhunmathee of business since antiquity, but the cer- jailed by the former regime several years nue to play less and less Atoll tainties concerning their history appear earlier, defeated Gayoom in a runoff of a role in the economy. Huvadhoo only from the second century. The poll. Challenges facing the new presi- A majority of staple foods must Atoll Arabic traders nicknamed them then the dent include strengthening democracy be imported. About 7% of GDP is Laccadive Sea 0º EQUATOR “Islands of Money” because of one local and combating drug abuse and poverty. generated by industries such as garment Currency 20.5 Maldivian shell, the Cauris, was internationally used Government: republic. Legal system: production, boat building, and handi- ruppies (MVR)= 1€ (2008), Addu as currency. Cowries were used interna- based on Islamic law with English com- crafts. In 1989, the Maldivian Government but many resorts show pric- Atoll tionally as bargaining chips. mon law used mostly in commercial mat- began an economic reform program, es in US dollars and in Euro. The Portuguese came to the islands ters. Capital: Male. lifting import quotas and opening some Diving If the Maldives Islands can be a in the 17th century. The Maldives Islands exports to the private sector. Regulation Population 385,925 (July 2008 est.) true paradise for , it is necessary became successively a Dutch protector- Geography The Maldives Islands have been liberalized regulations to allow Malé, the capital city of the Maldives, is o know that what you will see depends ate in the 18th century, then British in 1880 are located in Southern Asia. They are more foreign investment. The December home to 27 percent of the population. essentially on the experience of the cap- by the signature of an agreement official- a group of atolls in the Indian Ocean, 2004 tsunami rampaged the islands and Ethnic groups: South Indians, Sinhalese, tain and on the dive director. The one izing this status and recognizing Maldivian south-southwest of India at coordinates: left more than 100 dead, 12,000 dis- Arabs. Religion: Sunni Muslim. Internet or the other can be replaced at the sovereignty. The country obtained its 4 10 N, 73 30 E. Surface area: 90,000 km² placed, and property damage of over users: 33,000 (2007) drop of a hat, risking a missed opportuni- independence in 26 July 1965, and (ocean makes up 99.9 percent). Terrain: $300 million. However, there has been a ties to see the good stuff on the way to became a member of the UNO. In 1968, flat islands with white sandy beaches. rebound in tourism since then, as post-tsu- Language National language is the main show. Inquire about the staff, it became a republic. Coastline: 644 km. Lowest point: Indian nami reconstruction, and development Maldivian Divehi—a dialect of Sinhala crew and supposed route to the dive site Elected to six successive terms via Ocean 0 m. Highest point: unnamed of new resorts helped the economy to with a script derived from Arabic. Working before leaving the . single-party referendums, President location on Wilingili island in the Addu quickly recover. Even so, high oil prices language is English. Maumoon Abdul Gayoom dominated Atoll 2.4 m. Note: The Maldives are 1,190 and imports of construction material has Phone Country code is 960. the islands’ political scene for 30 years. coral islands grouped into 26 atolls (200 increased the trade deficit. Challenges Habits & Customs You are in a Cell phones can easily connect to some Riots in the capital Male in August 2004, islands are inhabited and 80 islands have facing the country include diversi- Muslim country. Nudism and the monokini networks almost everywhere. Depending led to the president and his govern- tourist resorts). The archipelago has a fying beyond tourism and fishing and are totally forbidden and liable to strong on your network – GSM roaming is enabled ment pledging to implement democratic strategic location adjacent to sea lanes increasing employment. Global warming fines. It is the same at resorts. Light dresses for some carriers. For Australia is Telecom reforms with a more representative politi- in the Indian Ocean. and erosion are a real worry over the are frowned upon in the city and outside or Optus and Singapore is Starhub, M1 and cal system and more political freedoms. longer term for the Maldivian authorities. island hotels. Going topless is totally pro- Singtel – check with your provider for ser- However, progress in many promised Economy Maldives’ largest industry is Eighty percent of the area in this low-lying hibited and punished even at resorts. vice and charges. Since 2002, I was able reforms were slow in coming. Yet, in 2005, tourism, which accounts for 28% of GDP country is just one meter or less above to check email using my GSM phone on all political parties were legalized, and by and more than 60% of the Maldives’ sea level. Gastronomy my safari trips in the Maldives. June 2008, a constituent assembly (the foreign exchange receipts. Import duties The Maldivian cuisine is simple and eas- “Special Majlis”) finished writing a new and tourism-related taxes make up over Climate Tropical, hot and humid with a ily accessible, although you can dive a Time UTC+5 (GMT/Zulu +5) constitution, which was ratified by the 90% of government tax revenue. The dry, northeast monsoon from November little into the local life, on an island, or to president. second leading sector is fishing. The limi- to March and a rainy, southwest mon- Malé. Otherwise, resorts offer a variety of Links In October 2008, the first-ever presiden- ted availability of cultivable land and the soon from June to August. cooking, often dominated by Indian cui- Maldives Tourist Promotion Board tial elections under a multi-candidate, shortage of domestic labor constrains sine. www.visitmaldives.com ■

41 X-RAY MAG : 28 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED In face of climate change Maldives seek to buy a new homeland

The Maldives’ newly-elected president has said that his government will begin saving to buy a new homeland in case global warming causes the country to disappear into the sea.

to create a “sovereign wealth The president, a human rights The inhabitants of the Maldives • The highest land point in fund” from the dollars gener- activist who swept to power do not want to end up like the Maldives is 2.4 metres ated by “importing tourists”, after ousting Maumoon Abdul Atlantis. The new president above sea level, on Wilingili in the way that Arab states Gayoom, the man who once of the Maldives, Mohamed island in the Addu Atoll have done by “exporting imprisoned him, said he had Nasheed, has said he wants to oil”.“Kuwait invests in com- already broached the idea set up a fund to acquire land • The Intergovernmental Panel panies, we will invest in land” with a number of countries in other parts of the region on Climate Change pre- Nasheed said. “We do not and found them to be “recep- and buy a new homeland dicts that sea levels could want to leave the Maldives, tive”. for his people. “We cannot rise by 25-58cm by 2100 but neither do we want to live do anything to stop climate like refugees in tents for many change, so we are forced to Environmentalists say the issue • The country comprises 1,192 years” he added. buy land somewhere else”, raises the question of what islands grouped around 26 Nasheed, told the English daily rights citizens have if their Indian Ocean atolls. Only The Guardian last month. He wants somewhere within homeland no longer exists. “It’s 250 islands are inhabited. the region - possibly India or Sri an unprecedented wake-up The population is 380,000 Fund Lanka. He said Sri Lanka and call,” said Tom Picken, head of The idea is to create a sov- India were targets because international climate change • The main income is from ereign wealth fund with rev- they had similar cultures, cui- at Friends of the Earth. “The tourism, with 467,154 people enue from tourism in the style sines and climates. Australia Maldives is left to fend for itself. visiting in 2006 of those of the oil-producing was also being considered It is a victim of climate change Arab countries. because of the amount of caused by rich countries.” Nasheed said he intended unoccupied land available.

The Maldives holds the Mohamed Nasheed is the current President of the Maldives. He is the founder and the Maldivian Democratic Party and record for being the low- was its presidential candidate in the October 2008 presiden- est country in the world, tial election, defeating long-time President Maumoon Abdul Gayoom in a second round of voting. He was sworn in as with a maximum natu- President on November 11, 2008. Nasheed is commonly known in the Maldives ral ground level of only as Anni and is a former 2.3 m with the average member of Parliament for Malé. He was an out- communication being only 1.5 m above spoken critic of Gayoom of sea level, though in areas and his policies. Due to his criticism of the gov- ministry where construction exists ernment, over the years he was arrested and sen- I ndian this has been increased to tenced several times. several metres. source: Wikipedia NASA/GSFC/METI/ERSDAC/JAROS 42 X-RAY MAG : 28 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Text by Dennis Kaandorp, Euro-Divers Diva Maldives Photos courtesy of Dennis Kaandorp and Yann Saint Yves Whale Shark Park On 4 December 2008, the first Maldives Whale Shark Protection Area (MPA) Maldivian Protection Area meeting was hosted on the beautiful five- star deluxe resort island, Diva Maldives, located in the South Ari Atoll. The Maldives Whale Shark Research Programme (MWSRP) has been established by an international team of biologists, who since 2006, have been working to build up a profile of the whale shark population in the Republic of Maldives. The MWSRP has been invited by the former Minister of Tourism and Civil Aviation, Dr Shaugee, to assist in a community driven initiative to designate South Ari’s southern outer reef as a ‘national whale shark park’. The MWSRP is working hard to build strong relationships with local community representatives, and as a result, preliminary discussions with resort managers, dive center managers and island chiefs in the region regarding the development of a marine protected area have been very positive. The meeting’s aim was primarily to initiate this development by bringing together, for the first time, partners in this fight. In the meeting gathered were from the local islands: Ahmed Qasim, Ahmed Junah (assistant island chief and airport development manager from Maamigili), Mohamed Abdulla (assistant island chief Dhidhoo), Hussain Fayaz (school headmaster Digurah), Ibrahim Hassan (assistant island chief Digurah)—and from Fenfushi—Shahid Abdul Raheem (island chief). But also representatives from the resort island were present. Diva Maldives was represented by both the general manager DENNIS KAANDORP 43 X-RAY MAG : 28 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Maldives

strong relationships with local community representatives and as a result preliminary discussions with resort managers and island chiefs in the region regarding the development of a marine protected area have been very positive. At the moment, the South Ari Atoll is one of the only places in the world known to have year-round Whale Sharks. This, combined with a big variety of dive sites, makes it one of the top dive

YANN SAINT YVES

THIS PAGE: divers are dwarfed by the gentle giants. RIGHT: Team members

Johnny Matis, the resident manager conservation initiatives within the Xavier Arnoux, and the Euro-Divers Dive Maldives. Center manager, Dennis Kaandorp. Since 2006, the MWSRP From neighboring resorts Euro-Divers has been investigating the Vilamendhoo Dive Center Manger Mike demographics and behavioral Cristiani was there and representing ecology of the Maldivian whale Holiday Island and Sun Island, Thomas shark sub-population though Weber was present. From the initiators photo identification, prey of the MWSRP, we had Adam Harman, surveys and collaborating on Morgan Riley and Richard Rees. international genetic analysis The goal of the MWSRP is to be a and satellite tagging projects. Maldivian-run program that exists to Over three distinct field work DENNIS KAANDORP facilitate perpetual whale shark research periods, the program has logged projects and to foster community- over 350 whale shark encounters, and gave a presentation to the Ministry of destinations, not just in the focused conservation initiatives within the by utilizing photo-identification software, Tourism and Civil Aviation and the Ministry world, but also in the Maldives. Maldives. a database of 100 individual sharks has of the Environment, Energy and Water on Yet, we have to do our share The Maldives Whale Shark Research been compiled. The MWSRP are also the status of the whale shark population. in protecting these magical Programme (MWSRP) has been currently conducting a nationwide survey On the strength of the evidence creatures. Certain rules have

established by an international team of to investigate whether there are any presented, it was requested that a to be made to protect them YANN SAINT YVES biologists, who since 2006, have been other significant whale shark aggregation workshop be organized for the MWSRP to as much as possible. Many working to build up a profile of the whale sites in the archipelago. discuss best-practices with key industry Whale Sharks here, like other creatures as their legacy to their children. shark population in the Republic of The program has been working closely stakeholders. This workshop, also held in places in the world, bare scars from As result of the meeting, all gathered Maldives. The goal of the MWSRP is to be with the government, tour operators and June, was successful and the resulting encounters with humans. This can be agreed to set up a committee to achieve a Maldivian-run program that exists to local communities to make currently whale shark encounter policy has been avoided by education and regulation. the goal. More meetings are expected to facilitate perpetual whale shark research unregulated whale shark directed tourism officially endorsed by the government. It became clear during the meeting take place soon. ■ projects and to foster community focused sustainable. In June 2008, the MWSRP The MWSRP has worked hard to build that the Maldivian themselves see these

44 X-RAY MAG : 28 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED