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Vol. 35 No. 1 July 2021 Kikkoman’s quarterly intercultural forum for the exchange of ideas on food 4 THE JAPANESE TABLE CLOSE-UP JAPAN: Kakigori Shaved Ice — Global Fare in 5 JAPANESE STYLE: Japanese Cherries Contemporary Japan TASTY TRAVEL: Tottori Rakkyo French Cuisine — by Yoshiki Tsuji 6 MORE ABOUT JAPANESE COOKING: Japan’s eclectic dining scene has been informed by foods Sautéed Scallops with Tomato-Orange from around the world. Our new Feature series explores the Oroshi Sauce history of how various international cuisines took root in Oyakodon Japanese Chicken-Egg Rice Bowl Japan and evolved, starting with the impact and enduring — appeal of French cuisine. 8 KIKKOMAN TODAY: Kikkoman’s New Recipe Website “Cooking Up a Harmony” Global Fare in Contemporary Japan French Cuisine Etude Historique de la Cuisine Française (Historical study of French cuisine; 1977) and other publications on French cuisine authored by Shizuo Tsuji, pictured at left. The true measure of the signifi cance of were purpose-built to entertain environment that was highly receptive French cuisine in Japan is best refl ected prominent guests from Japan and to its further development. in the high rankings it regularly receives overseas—and each served authentic in the country’s Michelin Guide. Let me French cuisine. The Imperial Hotel Seeking Authenticity briefl y relate how French food attained in Tokyo, established in 1890, also Before and after the Second World such recognition in Japan, starting functioned as the state guest house of War, the advancement of French with its introduction here in the late the Meiji government. The Imperial cuisine in Japan came to a standstill, nineteenth century. Hotel paved the way for French leading to considerable variance with cuisine in Japan from the late 1920s, the authentic cuisine. Two historical Diplomatic Cuisine as its own chefs were sent to train at milestones helped to close this gap: Perhaps the fi rst offi cial banquet in the Hotel Ritz in Paris. the opening of the French restaurant Japan to serve French cuisine was Because of these top-down efforts Maxim’s de Paris in 1966 in Ginza, held in 1867 at Osaka Castle, when by Meiji government and business Tokyo; and Japan’s World Expo in the last shogun, Tokugawa Yoshinobu sectors to introduce French cuisine, Osaka in 1970. Expo ’70 happened to (1837-1913), entertained the consuls of public perception here has historically coincide with the emergence of France’s Britain, France, the Netherlands and regarded French food as formal and enormously infl uential nouvelle the United States. But the defi nitive somewhat unapproachable. Yet in cuisine. Not only did the France introduction of French gastronomy retrospect, Japan’s robust embrace of Pavilion introduce many of the Expo’s here begins with offi cial government French cuisine in the late nineteenth 64 million visitors to French food, banquets and those served in the court century was signifi cant in establishing countless young Japanese chefs of the emperor during the Meiji era its fundamental infrastructure here, working in the Pavilion’s kitchens (1868-1912). Banquet menus of this which in turn produced an also encountered true French cuisine time reveal that, while there was for the fi rst time. These chefs set some substitution of those ingredients forth en masse to France on their own which could not be obtained in Japan, initiative to master the skills of French the dishes presented were nearly cuisine with passion and commitment. identical to those served at French Without a doubt, these intrepid tables in the late nineteenth century. Japanese chefs laid the foundations The Meiji government aimed to for French cuisine in late twentieth- modernize the country, and Japan’s century Japan. government and business leaders Around this time, my father clearly recognized the diplomatic Shizuo Tsuji, founder of the Tsujicho signifi cance of food, particularly Group, became involved in deepening French cuisine. Through their Japan’s adoption of French cuisine. initiative, the Tokyo Tsukiji Hotel, He invited numerous French chefs the Tsukiji Seiyoken restaurant and French menu for a dinner served at the Ministry of to Japan for professional culinary arts Public Works, March 25, 1878. the Rokumeikan banqueting house Courtesy of Ajinomoto Foundation for Dietary Culture exchanges; and through his historical 2 Chef Hajime Yoneda's vegetable dish “Chikyu (planet earth)” embraces the aesthetic of order with the harmony of nature, earth and space. research on French cooking, he made in France, it was only natural that Satoyama Cuisine” as an expression it possible for Japanese chefs to focus nuances, however subtle, would exist. of Japanese terroir. The cuisine of on advancing their own techniques and Through twenty-fi rst century chefs such as these, who compete with the profession as a whole. He published globalization, state-of-the-art cuisines confi dence on the world stage, refl ects essays and books on the cultural role of built upon the French culinary the polish and refi nement they wield. food in French society, and these played platform have been appearing around Their art attests to the fact that they a part in creating a broader Japanese the world, and the ways in which have not only elevated the French appreciation for French food and for the people view food and fl avor are cuisine they have mastered, they have rich culture that nurtured it. diversifying. Culinary expressions revolutionized it. The greatest appeal of terroir or local ethos that make of French cuisine in twenty-fi rst A Global Shift active use of scientifi c knowledge century Japan may be found in its As both cooks and consumers became and technologies have become the diversity and in the generational more sophisticated during the period of global trend. This comprehensive shift breadth of its chefs. Alongside these Japan’s rapid economic growth in the has been a gift to Japanese chefs, innovative styles, there are other more late twentieth century, the country’s allowing them to distance themselves orthodox, yet ingenious approaches. French cuisine entered its golden age. from “authentic French” and pursue There is bistro fare that refl ects French Yet no matter how skillfully chefs their own unique, equally valid, country food, and versions that draw here mastered its arts, as long as they interpretations. We see this in the upon ingredients grown in Japan’s continued to pursue the “authentic” sophisticated, meticulous presentation distinctive natural environment. All cuisine of France itself, they were of dishes by chef Hajime Yoneda are fi rmly grounded in fundamental faced with an insurmountable wall. at HAJIME in Osaka; and in the skill—and this indeed is the rich Although innovations in transport and work of chef Yoshihiro Narisawa at harvest of more than 150 years of distribution made it possible to utilize NARISAWA restaurant in Tokyo, who French cuisine in Japan. the same ingredients as those available created the new genre of “Innovative cover Illustration of a French-style banquet held in the ornate greenhouse of Count Shigenobu Okuma during the Meiji era, by artist Toshikata Mizuno. This print appeared as the frontispiece in the Winter installment of the serial Shokudoraku by Gensai Murai (1904). Courtesy of Kanagawa Museum of Modern Literature Author’s profile Yoshiki Tsuji was born in 1964 in Osaka, and educated in the UK and the US. He is chairman and head of the Board of Directors of Tsuji Culinary Institute. His numerous publications encompass the subjects of the modern transitions of gastronomy, and Japanese cuisine. He was awarded France’s National Order of Signature dish “Satoyama Scenery,” by Chef Yoshihiro Narisawa Merit in 2018. FOOD FORUM July 2021 3 CLOSE-UP JAPAN Traditions and trends in Japanese food culture Kakigori topped with strawberry syrup and condensed milk (left); and served with matcha syrup, shiratama dango glutinous rice dumplings and sweetened azuki red beans. Kakigori Shaved Ice Kakigori shaved ice is a cold, are found in cafés, restaurants, refreshing dessert most evocative convenience stores and in kakigori of hot Japanese summers, but specialty shops. nowadays it is a year-round treat, Nowadays kakigori Two kinds of ice are used for enjoyed even in the chill of winter. is a year-round treat kakigori: pure and natural. The Kakigori in Japan is traditionally former is made by freezing water made using a manual ice-shaving artifi cially, while the latter is made apparatus, but automatic machines by drawing high quality mountain are also used. Kakigori textures or spring water into artifi cial ponds range from coarse to fl uffy-soft, and topped with fl avored syrups like and allowing it to freeze naturally. depending on the pressure of the strawberry, melon or lemon. Of the two types, natural ice melts blades—but arguably the most As far back as the eighth century, more slowly because of its higher sought-after shaved ice is fi ne and icehouses called himuro were used density, the result of being frozen feathery, served in a bowl or cup to store ice that was cut in the slowly and naturally. Natural ice is winter for use in summer; in fact, transparent with a clean, pure taste. summer ice was so precious, it There are several natural ice- was presented to the emperor. An makers in Japan today; some of the essay written some thousand years most famous kakigori specialty ago includes a description of sweet shops serve only natural ice. In amazura syrup, made from Japanese such shops, in addition to serving ivy, poured over shaved ice. Ice was shaved ice with traditional a rare commodity in Japan until the favorites like matcha syrup and late nineteenth century, when sweetened azuki red beans or ice-making technology became more strawberry syrup with condensed widespread.

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