FOOD FORUM July 2021 3 CLOSE-UP JAPAN Traditions and Trends in Japanese Food Culture

Vol. 35 No. 1 July 2021

Kikkoman’s quarterly intercultural forum for the exchange of ideas on food

4 THE JAPANESE TABLE CLOSE-UP JAPAN: Kakigori Shaved Ice — Global Fare in 5 JAPANESE STYLE: Japanese Cherries Contemporary Japan TASTY TRAVEL: Tottori Rakkyo French Cuisine — by Yoshiki Tsuji 6 MORE ABOUT JAPANESE COOKING: Japan’s eclectic dining scene has been informed by foods Sautéed Scallops with Tomato-Orange from around the world. Our new Feature series explores the Oroshi Sauce history of how various international cuisines took root in Oyakodon Japanese Chicken-Egg Rice Bowl Japan and evolved, starting with the impact and enduring — appeal of French cuisine. 8 KIKKOMAN TODAY: Kikkoman’s New Recipe Website “Cooking Up a Harmony” Global Fare in Contemporary Japan French Cuisine

Etude Historique de la Cuisine Française (Historical study of French cuisine; 1977) and other publications on French cuisine authored by Shizuo Tsuji, pictured at left.

The true measure of the signifi cance of were purpose-built to entertain environment that was highly receptive French cuisine in Japan is best refl ected prominent guests from Japan and to its further development. in the high rankings it regularly receives overseas—and each served authentic in the country’s Michelin Guide. Let me French cuisine. The Imperial Hotel Seeking Authenticity briefl y relate how French food attained in Tokyo, established in 1890, also Before and after the Second World such recognition in Japan, starting functioned as the state guest house of War, the advancement of French with its introduction here in the late the Meiji government. The Imperial cuisine in Japan came to a standstill, nineteenth century. Hotel paved the way for French leading to considerable variance with cuisine in Japan from the late 1920s, the authentic cuisine. Two historical Diplomatic Cuisine as its own chefs were sent to train at milestones helped to close this gap: Perhaps the fi rst offi cial banquet in the Hotel Ritz in Paris. the opening of the French restaurant Japan to serve French cuisine was Because of these top-down efforts Maxim’s de Paris in 1966 in Ginza, held in 1867 at Osaka Castle, when by Meiji government and business Tokyo; and Japan’s World Expo in the last shogun, Tokugawa Yoshinobu sectors to introduce French cuisine, Osaka in 1970. Expo ’70 happened to (1837-1913), entertained the consuls of public perception here has historically coincide with the emergence of France’s Britain, France, the Netherlands and regarded French food as formal and enormously infl uential nouvelle the United States. But the defi nitive somewhat unapproachable. Yet in cuisine. Not only did the France introduction of French gastronomy retrospect, Japan’s robust embrace of Pavilion introduce many of the Expo’s here begins with offi cial government French cuisine in the late nineteenth 64 million visitors to French food, banquets and those served in the court century was signifi cant in establishing countless young Japanese chefs of the emperor during the Meiji era its fundamental infrastructure here, working in the Pavilion’s kitchens (1868-1912). Banquet menus of this which in turn produced an also encountered true French cuisine time reveal that, while there was for the fi rst time. These chefs set some substitution of those ingredients forth en masse to France on their own which could not be obtained in Japan, initiative to master the skills of French the dishes presented were nearly cuisine with passion and commitment. identical to those served at French Without a doubt, these intrepid tables in the late nineteenth century. Japanese chefs laid the foundations The Meiji government aimed to for French cuisine in late twentieth- modernize the country, and Japan’s century Japan. government and business leaders Around this time, my father clearly recognized the diplomatic Shizuo Tsuji, founder of the Tsujicho signifi cance of food, particularly Group, became involved in deepening French cuisine. Through their Japan’s adoption of French cuisine. initiative, the Tokyo Tsukiji Hotel, He invited numerous French chefs the Tsukiji Seiyoken restaurant and French menu for a dinner served at the Ministry of to Japan for professional culinary arts Public Works, March 25, 1878. the Rokumeikan banqueting house Courtesy of Ajinomoto Foundation for Dietary Culture exchanges; and through his historical

2 Chef Hajime Yoneda's vegetable dish “Chikyu (planet earth)” embraces the aesthetic of order with the harmony of nature, earth and space.

research on French cooking, he made in France, it was only natural that Satoyama Cuisine” as an expression it possible for Japanese chefs to focus nuances, however subtle, would exist. of Japanese terroir. The cuisine of on advancing their own techniques and Through twenty-fi rst century chefs such as these, who compete with the profession as a whole. He published globalization, state-of-the-art cuisines confi dence on the world stage, refl ects essays and books on the cultural role of built upon the French culinary the polish and refi nement they wield. food in French society, and these played platform have been appearing around Their art attests to the fact that they a part in creating a broader Japanese the world, and the ways in which have not only elevated the French appreciation for French food and for the people view food and fl avor are cuisine they have mastered, they have rich culture that nurtured it. diversifying. Culinary expressions revolutionized it. The greatest appeal of terroir or local ethos that make of French cuisine in twenty-fi rst A Global Shift active use of scientifi c knowledge century Japan may be found in its As both cooks and consumers became and technologies have become the diversity and in the generational more sophisticated during the period of global trend. This comprehensive shift breadth of its chefs. Alongside these Japan’s rapid economic growth in the has been a gift to Japanese chefs, innovative styles, there are other more late twentieth century, the country’s allowing them to distance themselves orthodox, yet ingenious approaches. French cuisine entered its golden age. from “authentic French” and pursue There is bistro fare that refl ects French Yet no matter how skillfully chefs their own unique, equally valid, country food, and versions that draw here mastered its arts, as long as they interpretations. We see this in the upon ingredients grown in Japan’s continued to pursue the “authentic” sophisticated, meticulous presentation distinctive natural environment. All cuisine of France itself, they were of dishes by chef Hajime Yoneda are fi rmly grounded in fundamental faced with an insurmountable wall. at HAJIME in Osaka; and in the skill—and this indeed is the rich Although innovations in transport and work of chef Yoshihiro Narisawa at harvest of more than 150 years of distribution made it possible to utilize NARISAWA restaurant in Tokyo, who French cuisine in Japan. the same ingredients as those available created the new genre of “Innovative cover Illustration of a French-style banquet held in the ornate greenhouse of Count Shigenobu Okuma during the Meiji era, by artist Toshikata Mizuno. This print appeared as the frontispiece in the Winter installment of the serial Shokudoraku by Gensai Murai (1904). Courtesy of Kanagawa Museum of Modern Literature

Author’s profile Yoshiki Tsuji was born in 1964 in Osaka, and educated in the UK and the US. He is chairman and head of the Board of Directors of Tsuji Culinary Institute. His numerous publications encompass the subjects of the modern transitions of gastronomy, and Japanese cuisine. He was awarded France’s National Order of Signature dish “Satoyama Scenery,” by Chef Yoshihiro Narisawa Merit in 2018.

FOOD FORUM July 2021 3 CLOSE-UP JAPAN Traditions and trends in Japanese food culture

Kakigori topped with strawberry syrup and condensed milk (left); and served with matcha syrup, shiratama dango glutinous rice dumplings and sweetened azuki red beans.

Kakigori Shaved Ice

Kakigori shaved ice is a cold, are found in cafés, restaurants, refreshing dessert most evocative convenience stores and in kakigori of hot Japanese summers, but specialty shops. nowadays it is a year-round treat, Nowadays kakigori Two kinds of ice are used for enjoyed even in the chill of winter. is a year-round treat kakigori: pure and natural. The Kakigori in Japan is traditionally former is made by freezing water made using a manual ice-shaving artifi cially, while the latter is made apparatus, but automatic machines by drawing high quality mountain are also used. Kakigori textures or spring water into artifi cial ponds range from coarse to fl uffy-soft, and topped with fl avored syrups like and allowing it to freeze naturally. depending on the pressure of the strawberry, melon or lemon. Of the two types, natural ice melts blades—but arguably the most As far back as the eighth century, more slowly because of its higher sought-after shaved ice is fi ne and icehouses called himuro were used density, the result of being frozen feathery, served in a bowl or cup to store ice that was cut in the slowly and naturally. Natural ice is winter for use in summer; in fact, transparent with a clean, pure taste. summer ice was so precious, it There are several natural ice- was presented to the emperor. An makers in Japan today; some of the essay written some thousand years most famous kakigori specialty ago includes a description of sweet shops serve only natural ice. In amazura syrup, made from Japanese such shops, in addition to serving ivy, poured over shaved ice. Ice was shaved ice with traditional a rare commodity in Japan until the favorites like matcha syrup and late nineteenth century, when sweetened azuki red beans or ice-making technology became more strawberry syrup with condensed widespread. Today shaved-ice milk, novel syrup fl avors like desserts are not only a common tiramisu, coffee or tomato are also Ice-shaving machine sight at summer festival stalls, they constantly introduced.

4 JAPANESE STYLE Perspectives on Japanese cuisine

Japanese Cherries

Cherries are a nutritious fruit, fi rst introduced to Japan from Europe Kidama and the slightly tart Napoleon containing minerals like iron, and the US in the late nineteenth varieties; after nearly fi fteen years, potassium and other vitamins. century. Today, various kinds of he succeeded in producing the Sato American cherries have fi rm fl esh cherries are grown from central Nishiki cherry, which today is the and strong sweetness, while Japanese to northern Japan, with Yamagata most commonly cultivated variety. cherries have smaller pits and a Prefecture the largest cherry- Often sent as a gift, it is expensive: greater amount of soft edible fl esh, producer, boasting over 70 percent each cherry is handled individually, thus are juicier with an excellent of total yield. In the early twentieth one by one, and arranged in neat rows balance of sweet and sour. Edible century, Yamagata farmer Eisuke in boxes. New high-end varieties are fruit-bearing cherry seedlings were Sato selectively cultivated the sweet also currently being developed.

Japanese cherry trees Sato Nishiki cherries

TASTY TRAVEL Tottori Rakkyo

Tottori Prefecture produces more rakkyo Chinese scallions than any other region in Japan. Characterized by its dense, crunchy Tottori white bulbs, rakkyo was originally introduced from China as a medicinal plant around the ninth century. The best-known rakkyo are those famously cultured in Tottori’s dry, infertile sakyu sand dunes along the Japan Sea, an area known for harsh winds and heavy snows. Seed bulbs are planted in summer, and rakkyo are harvested in early summer the following year: it is generally agreed that the more severe the winter, the better the taste. The white bulbs are pickled in sweetened Rakkyo before pickling (left) and pickled vinegar to be enjoyed year-round as a sweet-sour condiment to accompany curry and rice.

FOOD FORUM July 2021 5 In Japan, grilled fi sh is typically accompanied by grated daikon oroshi, which diners sprinkle with soy sauce or SAUTÉED SCALLOPS WITH ponzu, as preferred. Here, this classic oroshi features TOMATO-ORANGE OROSHI SAUCE colorful and fl avorful touches of tomato and orange, seasoned with soy sauce and vinegar in a twist on Japanese style.

To prepare the oroshi sauce, peel and grate enough daikon to make 2 T after the 1moisture has been squeezed out. Peel the tomato, cut into bite-size pieces and pulse very briefl y in a food processor until coarsely chopped, taking care not to make juice. Cut each orange segment into several pieces.

Scallops Gently blend the grated daikon and orange pieces with the chopped tomato. Serves 2 as a first course 2Add a few drops of hot pepper sauce to taste. Set aside. 366 kcal Protein 12.9 g Fat 6.7 g (per serving) Mix the soy sauce and vinegar, set aside; arrange salad greens and herbs on one side Oroshi grated daikon sauce • Piece of daikon, about 3of a serving plate. 8-10 cm / 3 ¼-4 in. long; 70-80 g / 2.5-3 oz. Rinse and pat dry the scallops. In a frying pan, heat olive oil and sauté both sides • 1 firm ripe tomato, 180-190 g / 6-7 oz. • 1/4 orange, segmented* 4of the scallops over medium heat, until a skewer can be inserted smoothly. Season • Hot pepper sauce lightly with salt and pepper, remove scallops and set aside. To deglaze the pan, add sake • 2 T Kikkoman Soy Sauce and scrape the bottom, then bring to boil until the juice becomes syrupy. • 3 T grain vinegar • Preferred salad greens or green leaf lettuce Place the sautéed scallops alongside greens on the serving plate. Sprinkle the • A few sprigs each of fresh dill, 5deglazed liquid over the scallops, then spoon tomato-orange oroshi sauce over them. chervil, Italian parsley

• 10-12 fresh scallops**, When eating, sprinkle soy sauce-vinegar dressing over the tomato-orange oroshi total 200-220 g / 1/2 lb. sauce and greens. • 1 T or more pure olive oil 6 • Salt and black pepper • 2 T sake (for deglazing); or water if unavailable * May substitute other citrus such as grapefruit; it is more acidic than oranges, so reduce amount of vinegar and add a little honey for sweetness. ** If using sashimi-quality, sauté both sides only briefly. Recipe by Michiko Yamamoto 1 C (U.S. cup) = approx. 240 ml; 1 T = 15 ml; 1 t = 5 ml

6 OYAKODON JAPANESE CHICKEN-EGG RICE BOWL

Cut the chicken into small pieces about 2 cm / 0.8 in. square. Sprinkle 1 T sake over 1the meat and set aside.

Peel and trim the onion and cut it in half, then cut into thin slices along the fi ber. 2Cut mitsuba to separate leaves from stems; cut stems into 2 cm / 0.8 in. lengths. MitsubaMitsuba Place the ingredients for the simmering liquid in a pot. Add the sliced onion and Serves 4 632 kcal Protein 25.2 g Fat 16.4 g 3simmer over medium heat until onion is slightly soft. Add the chicken to the pot (per serving) and simmer until almost cooked. • Deboned chicken thigh*, 300 g / 10 oz. • 1 T sake Each of the four servings is then prepared separately. Beat one egg. Pour one-quarter • 1 large onion, 220-250 g / 1/2 lb. • One or two sprigs of mitsuba 4of the onion and chicken mixture with the liquid into a small frying pan, about Japanese wild parsley or watercress 18 cm / 7 in. diameter. Bring to a boil over medium heat.

Simmering liquid • 240 ml / 1 C dashi stock Pour beaten egg over the onion and chicken, cover and continue to cook until egg • 3 T Kikkoman Soy Sauce is set to desired fi rmness. Turn off the heat, add 1/4 amount of mitsuba and cover • 2 T granulated sugar 5 • 3 T sake briefl y, until mitsuba becomes a bit wilted.

• 4 eggs • 4 bowls of hot cooked rice Fill an individual bowl with hot cooked rice, making the rice fl at on top. Gently • Roasted nori seaweed, torn into 6transfer the cooked chicken and egg onto the rice to cover it completely, then small pieces about 2 T garnish with 1/2 T nori. Repeat Steps 4 to 6 to make three more individual servings.

* Chicken thigh without skin may be used if preferred.

Recipe by Kikkoman Corporation

FOOD FORUM July 2021 7 Kikkoman’s New Recipe Website “Cooking Up a Harmony”

Delicious recipes can be found on Cooking Up a Harmony https://www.kikkoman.com/en/cookbook/soysauceharmony/index.html

Kikkoman has recently launched a experience of traditional Japanese New Flavors new website that features original cuisine. Since Japan’s Edo period Add soy sauce to any familiar recipes using Kikkoman Soy Sauce. (1603-1867), tempura and sushi seasoning, then drizzle it onto The website name, Cooking Up have been popular, and these, along vegetables and meat. This a Harmony, speaks for itself, as with other globally loved favorites, concept permeates throughout it aims to bring harmony into are among the many classic recipes the recipes here to create endless kitchens around the world. The featured here. fl avor potential, depending on the website itself introduces the seasoning used. All of these recipes appeal of Kikkoman Soy Sauce Simply Soy Sauce present fl avors that are utterly all-purpose seasoning, which goes Soy sauce embodies all of the fi ve transformed, thanks to soy sauce. well with all kinds of ingredients basic tastes—sweet, sour, salty, and cuisines. The site presents bitter and umami—and unites Check out our new website for diverse recipes—all enhanced them in absolute harmony, in a more recipes. When you access the with Kikkoman Soy Sauce—that single bottle. These recipes share site, please enjoy the home page highlight the fl avor of foods. how even a few drops of soy sauce video to hear the cook humming “Cooking Up a Harmony” recipes alone can not only season, but also happily against the background of are arranged under four categories: transform, a dish—almost like a the sounds of cooking. magic potion for deliciousness. As Kikkoman continues to Authentic Japanese focus on communication through For centuries, soy sauce has been Secret Ingredient food with our consumers around used to enhance the delicious Soy sauce also plays an excellent the world, we also invite you to supporting role in recipes by visit our global Instagram account, unveiling the fl avors of other where we offer up information ingredients. These recipes reveal on diverse gastronomic cultures, how pre-seasoning with soy sauce recipes and tasty insights into can impart a mild umami, Kikkoman Soy Sauce. and how it can unify disparate ingredients in stewed dishes. These recipes offer up a harmony Follow us on Instagram! of fl avor, made possible only with @kikkoman_global soy sauce.

FOOD FORUM is a quarterly newsletter published by Kikkoman Corporation, International Operations Division, 2-1-1 Nishi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku, Tokyo 105-8428, Japan / Production: Cosmo Public Relations Corporation / Editor: Marybeth Stock / Proofreader: Nora Wynne Koiwai / Special Advisors: Isao Kumakura, Michiko Yamamoto / Contributor: Yoshiki Tsuji / Art Director: Eiko Nishida / Photo Credits: Tsuji Culinary Institute (p. 2 top photos) / HAJIME&ARTISTES.INC (p. 3 top) / NARISAWA (p. 3 bottom) / PIXTA (p. 4, p. 5 top, bottom left, p.7 left) / amanaimages (p. 5 middle left, middle right) / Yoshitaka Matsumoto (p. 5 bottom right, p. 6, p. 7 top) / Special thanks to HAJIME, NARISAWA / Printing: Otowa Printing ©2021 by Kikkoman Corporation. All rights reserved. Requests to reprint articles or excerpts should be sent to the publisher. http://www.kikkoman.com/ 8