Owner’s Manual for BMX 3rd Edition, 2003

This manual contains important safety, performance and service information. Read it before you take the first ride on your new , and keep it for reference.

AN IMPORTANT MESSAGE TO PARENTS: This Manual contains important safety information. For your child's safety, it is your responsibility to review this information with your child and make sure that your child understands all warnings, cautions, instructions and safety topics. We recommend that you periodically review and reinforce the information in this Manual with younger riders.

 GENERAL WARNING: A special note for parents: Like any sport, bicycling involves risk of injury and damage. As a parent or guardian, you are responsible for the By choosing to ride a bicycle, you assume the responsibility activities and safety of your minor child, and that includes for that risk, so you need to know — and to practice — the making sure that the bicycle is properly fitted to the child; rules of safe and responsible riding and of proper use and that it is in good repair and safe operating condition; that maintenance. Proper use and maintenance of your bicycle you and your child have learned and understand the safe reduces risk of injury. operation of the bicycle; and that you and your child have This Manual contains many “Warnings” and “Cautions” learned, understand and obey not only the applicable local concerning the consequences of failure to maintain or inspect motor vehicle, bicycle and traffic laws, but also the common your bicycle and of failure to follow safe cycling practices. sense rules of safe and responsible bicycling. As a parent, you • The combination of the ! safety alert symbol and should read this manual, as well as review its warnings and the the word WARNING indicates a potentially hazardous situation bicycle’s functions and operating procedures with your child, which, if not avoided, could result in serious injury or death. before letting your child ride the bicycle. • The combination of the ! safety alert symbol and the word CAUTION indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, may result in minor or moderate injury, ! WARNING: Make sure that your child always wears an or is an alert against unsafe practices. approved bicycle helmet when riding; but also make sure that • The word CAUTION used without the safety alert your child understands that a bicycle helmet is for bicycling symbol indicates a situation which, if not avoided, could only, and must be removed when not riding. A helmet must result in serious damage to the bicycle or the voiding of your not be worn while playing, in play areas, on playground warranty. equipment, while climbing trees, or at any time while not Many of the Warnings and Cautions say “you may lose riding a bicycle. Failure to follow this warning could result in control and fall.” Because any fall can result in serious injury or serious injury or death. even death, we do not always repeat the warning of possible injury or death. Because it is impossible to anticipate every situation or condition which can occur while riding, this Manual makes no representation about the safe use of the bicycle under all conditions. There are risks associated with the use of any bicycle which cannot be predicted or avoided, and which are the sole responsibility of the rider.

 Contents GENERAL WARNING p. 2 A special note for parents p. 2

1. First 4. Tech A. Bike Fit p. 4 A. Brakes p. 13 B. Safety First p. 4 B. Wheels p. 16 C. Mechanical Safety Check p. 4 C. Pedals p. 18 D. First Ride p. 5 D. Bicycle Suspension p. 19 E. and Tubes p. 20 2. Safety A. The Basics p. 6 5. Service p. 21 B. Riding Safety p. 6 C. Off Road Safety p. 7 Appendix A D. Wet Weather Riding p. 8 Teaching Your Child The Rules p. 24 E. Night Riding p. 7 Appendix B F. Bicycling in Traffic p. 9 Bicycling In Traffic p. 26 G. Downhill, Stunt or Competition Biking p. 9 Appendix C H. Changing Components or Wheel and Seat Post Adding Accessories p. 10 Quick Release Mechanisms p. 28

3. Fit A. Standover Height p. 11 B. Saddle Position p. 11 C. Handlebar Height And Angle p. 12 D. Control Position Adjustments p. 13 E. Brake Reach p. 13

 and follow the helmet manufacturer’s instructions for fit, use 1. First and care of your helmet. 2. Do you have all the other required and recommended NOTE: All operators must read and understand all sections of safety equipment? See Section 2. It’s your responsibility to this owner’s manual before their initial operation of the bicycle. familiarize yourself with the laws of the areas where you ride, If after reading this manual in its entirety you have any ques- and to comply with all applicable laws. tions, please contact your authorized dealer for clarification 3. If your bike has wheel quick releases, do you know how or an explanation of specific topics that you are unsure about. to correctly operate them? Check Section Appendix B to make Please note that not all bicycles have all of the features de- sure. Riding with an improperly adjusted wheel quick release scribed in this Manual. Ask your dealer to point out the features can cause the wheel to wobble or disengage from the bicycle, of your bicycle. and cause serious injury or death. 4. If your bike has clipless (“step-in”) pedals, make sure you A. Bike fit know how they work (see Section 4.C.3). These pedals require 1. Is your bike the right size? To check, see Section 3.A. special techniques and skills. Follow the pedal manufacturer’s If your bicycle is too large or too small for you, you may lose instructions for use, adjustment and care. control and fall. If your new bike is not the right size, ask your 5. Does your bike have suspension? If so, check Section 4.F. dealer to exchange it before you ride it. Suspension can change the way a bicycle performs. Follow 2. Is the saddle at the right height? To check, see Section the suspension manufacturer’s instructions for use, adjustment 3.B. If you adjust your saddle height, make sure that you follow and care. the Minimum Insertion instructions in Section 3.B. 6. Do you have “toe overlap”? On smaller framed bicycles 3. Are saddle and seatpost securely clamped? A correctly your toe may be able to contact the front wheel when a pedal tightened saddle will allow no saddle movement in any is all the way forward and the wheel is turned. direction. See Section 3.B for details. See section 4.C.1. 4. Are the stem and handlebars at the right height for you? If not, see Section 3.C on what you can do about it. 6. Can you comfortably operate the brakes? If not, you C. Mechanical Safety Check may be able to adjust their angle and reach. See Section 3.D Routinely check the condition of your bicycle before and 3.E for details. every ride. 7. Do you fully understand how to operate your new Nuts, bolts & straps: Make sure nothing is loose. Lift the bicycle? If not, before you ride, have your dealer explain any front wheel off the ground by two or three inches, then let it functions or features which you do not understand. bounce on the ground. Anything sound, feel or look loose? Do a quick visual and tactile inspection of the whole bike. Any B. Safety first loose parts or accessories? If so, secure them. If you’re not sure, 1. Always wear an approved helmet when riding your bike,  ask someone with experience to check. Handlebar and saddle alignment: Make sure the saddle Tires & Wheels: Make sure tires are correctly inflated (see and handlebar stem are parallel to the bike’s center line Section 4.G.1). Check by putting one hand on the saddle, one and clamped tight enough so that you can’t twist them on the intersection of the handlebars and stem, then bouncing out of alignment. See Section 3.B and 3.C. If not, align and your weight on the bike while looking at deflection. tighten them. Compare what you see with how it looks when you know the Handlebar ends: Make sure the handlebar grips are tires are correctly inflated; and adjust if necessary. secure and in good condition. If not, replace them. Make sure Tires in good shape? Spin each wheel slowly and look for the handlebar ends are plugged. If not, plug them before cuts in the tread and sidewall. Replace damaged tires before you ride. riding the bike. Wheels true? Spin each wheel and check for brake clearance and side-to-side wobble. If a wheel wobbles side ! WARNING: Loose or damaged handlebar grips can to side even slightly, or rubs against or hits the brake pads, take cause you to lose control and fall. Unplugged handlebars the bike to a qualified bike shop to have the wheel trued. can cut your body, and can cause serious injury in an otherwise minor accident.

! CAUTION: Wheels must be true for the brakes to work effectively. Wheel truing is a skill which requires special tools D. First ride and experience. Do not attempt to true a wheel unless you When you buckle on your helmet and go for your first have the knowledge, experience and tools needed to do the familiarization ride on your new bicycle, be sure to pick job correctly. a controlled environment, away from cars, other cyclists, obstacles or other hazards. Ride to become familiar with the Brakes: Check the brakes for proper operation (see Section controls, features and performance of your new bike. 4.A). Squeeze the brake levers. Are the brake quick-releases Familiarize yourself with the braking action of the bike closed? All control cables seated and securely engaged? Do (see Section 4.C). Test the brakes at slow speed, putting your the brake pads contact the wheel rim squarely and make full weight toward the rear and gently applying the brakes, rear contact with the rim? Do the brake pads touch the wheel rim brake first. Sudden or excessive application of the front brake, within an inch of brake lever movement? Can you apply full if your bicycle has one, could pitch you over the handlebars. braking force at the levers without having them touch the Applying brakes too hard can lock up a wheel, which could handlebar? If not, your brakes need adjustment. Do not ride cause you to lose control and fall. Skidding is an example of the bike until the brakes are properly adjusted. what can happen when a wheel locks up. Quick Releases: If your bike has front wheel, rear wheel or If your bicycle has clipless pedals, practice getting in and seat post quick releases, make sure they are properly adjusted out of the pedals. See paragraph B.4 above and Section and in the locked position. See Section Appendix B. 4.C.3.  If your bike has suspension, familiarize yourself with how Most serious bicycle injuries involve head injuries which might the suspension responds to brake application and rider weight have been avoided if the rider had worn an appropriate shifts. See paragraph B.5 above and Section 4.F. helmet. Check out the handling and response of the bike; and check the comfort. WARNING: Failure to wear a helmet when riding may result If you have any questions, or if you feel anything about the ! in serious injury or death. bike is not as it should be, take the bike back to your dealer for advice. 2. Always do the Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C) before you get on a bike. 2. Safety 3. Be thoroughly familiar with the controls of your bicycle: brakes (Section 4.A) and pedals (Section 4.C). 4. Be careful to keep body parts and other objects ! WARNING: Many states require specific safety devices. away from the sharp teeth of chainrings; the moving chain; It is your responsibility to familiarize yourself with the laws of the turning pedals and cranks; and the spinning wheels of the state where you ride and to comply with all applicable your bicycle. laws, including properly equipping yourself and your bike as 5. Always wear: the law requires. • Shoes that will stay on your feet and will grip the pedals. Never ride barefoot or while wearing sandals. An important note to parents: Appendix A of this Manual • Bright, visible clothing that is not so loose that it can be contains some rules and lessons which adults are already tangled in the bicycle or snagged by objects at the side of expected to know, but which children need to be taught and the road or trail. to have frequently reinforced. Please take the time to familiarize • Protective eyewear, to protect against airborne dirt, yourself with Appendix A as well as with the information below, dust and bugs — tinted when the sun is bright, clear when and to teach these rules to your child before you let your child it’s not. ride unsupervised. 6. Ride at a speed appropriate for conditions. Increased speed means higher risk. 7. Before you attempt to jump, do stunt riding or race with A. The Basics your bike, read and understand Section 2.G. Downhill, Stunt or 1. Always wear a cycling helmet which Competition Biking. meets the latest certification standards and B. Riding Safety is appropriate for the type of riding you do. 1. Observe all local bicycle laws and regulations. Observe Always follow the helmet manufacturer’s regulations about licensing of bicycles, riding on sidewalks, laws instructions for fit, use and care of your helmet. regulating bike path and trail use, and so on. Observe helmet  laws and special bicycle traffic laws. It’s your responsibility to 10. Never carry anything which obstructs your vision or know and obey the laws. your complete control of the bicycle, or which could become 2. You are sharing the road or the path with others — entangled in the moving parts of the bicycle. motorists, pedestrians and other cyclists. Respect their rights. 11. Never hitch a ride by holding on to another vehicle. 3. Ride defensively. Always assume that others do not 12. Don’t weave through traffic or make any moves that see you. may surprise people with whom you are sharing the road. 4. Look ahead, and be ready to avoid: 13. Observe and yield the right of way. • Vehicles slowing or turning, entering the road or your 14. Never ride your bicycle while under the influence of lane ahead of you, or coming up behind you. alcohol or drugs. • Parked car doors opening. 15. If possible, avoid riding in bad weather, when visibility • Pedestrians stepping out. is obscured, at dawn, dusk or in the dark, or when extremely • Children or pets playing near the road. tired. Each of these conditions increases the risk of accident. • Pot holes, sewer grating, railroad tracks, expansion joints, 16. Before you attempt to jump, do stunt riding or race with road or sidewalk construction, debris and other obstructions your bike, read and understand Section 2.G. Downhill, Stunt or that could cause you to swerve into traffic, catch your wheel or Competition Biking. otherwise cause you to lose control and have an accident. • The many other hazards and distractions which can C. Off Road Safety occur on a bicycle ride. We recommend that children not ride off-road unless 5. Ride in designated bike lanes, on designated bike paths accompanied by an adult. In any event, never ride alone in or as close to the edge of the road as possible, in the direction remote areas. of traffic flow or as directed by local governing laws. Even when riding with others, make sure that someone knows 6. Stop at stop signs and traffic lights; slow down and look where you’re going and when you expect to be back. Always both ways at street intersections. Remember that a bicycle take along some kind of identification, so that people know always loses in a collision with a motor vehicle, so be prepared who you are in case of an accident; and take a couple of to yield even if you have the right of way. dollars in cash for a candy bar, a cool drink or an emergency 7. Use approved hand signals for turning and stopping. phone call. 8. Never ride with headphones. They mask traffic sounds 1. The variable conditions and hazards of off-road riding and emergency vehicle sirens, distract you from concentrating require close attention and specific skills. Start slowly on easier on what’s going on around you, and their wires can tangle in terrain and build up your skills. If your bike has suspension, the the moving parts of the bicycle, causing you to lose control. increased speed you may develop also increases your risk of 9. Never carry a passenger, unless it is a small child wearing losing control and falling. Get to know how to handle your bike an approved helmet and secured in a correctly mounted child safely before trying increased speed or more difficult terrain. carrier or a child-carrying trailer. 2. Wear safety gear appropriate to the kind of riding

 you plan. This makes it harder to control speed and easier to lose control. 3. Don’t ride alone in remote areas. Even when riding with To make sure that you can slow down and stop safely in wet others, make sure that someone knows where you’re going conditions, ride more slowly and apply your brakes earlier and and when you expect to be back. more gradually than you would under normal, dry conditions. 4. Learn and obey the local laws regulating where and See also Section 4.A. how you can ride off-road, and respect private property. 5. You may be sharing the trail with others — hikers, equestrians, other cyclists. Respect their rights. E. Night Riding 6. Yield right of way to pedestrians and animals. Ride in Riding a bicycle at night is many times more dangerous a way that does not frighten or endanger them, and stay than riding during the day. A bicyclist is very difficult for motorists far enough away so that their unexpected moves don’t and pedestrians to see. Therefore, children should never ride endanger you. at dawn, at dusk or at night. Adults should not ride at dawn, 7. Stay on the designated trail. Don’t contribute to erosion at dusk or at night unless it is absolutely necessary. by riding in mud or with unnecessary sliding. Don’t disturb the ecosystem by cutting your own trail or shortcut through WARNING: Reflectors are not a substitute for required vegetation or streams. It is your responsibility to minimize your ! lights. Riding at dawn, at dusk, at night or at other times of impact on the environment. Leave things as you found them; poor visibility without an adequate bicycle lighting system and always take out everything you brought in. and without reflectors is dangerous and may result in serious 8. Be prepared. If something goes wrong while you’re riding injury or death. off-road, help may not be close. 9. Before you attempt to jump with your bike, do stunt Bicycle reflectors are designed to pick up and reflect street riding or race with your bike, read and understand Section lights and car lights in a way that may help you to be seen 2.G. Downhill, Stunt or Competition Biking. and recognized as a moving bicyclist.

D. Wet Weather Riding ! CAUTION: Check reflectors and their mounting brackets ! WARNING: Wet weather impairs traction, braking and regularly to make sure that they are clean, straight, unbroken visibility, both for the bicyclist and for other vehicles sharing and securely mounted. Have your dealer replace damaged the road. The risk of an accident is dramatically increased in reflectors and straighten or tighten any that are bent or wet conditions. loose. Under wet conditions, the stopping power of your brakes The mounting brackets of front and rear reflectors are (as well as the brakes of other vehicles sharing the road) is often designed as brake straddle cable safety catches which dramatically reduced and your tires don’t grip nearly as well. prevent the straddle cable from catching on the if  the cable jumps out of its yoke or breaks. • If possible, ride on familiar routes. F. Bicycling in Traffic • Be predictable. Ride so that drivers can see you and WARNING: Do not remove the front or rear reflectors or ! predict your movements. reflector brackets from your bicycle. They are an integral part • Be alert. Ride defensively and expect the unexpected. of the bicycle’s safety system. • Read Appendix B and learn the rules for riding in traffic Removing the reflectors may reduce your visibility to others which are illustrated there. using the roadway. Being struck by other vehicles may result in serious injury or death. The reflector brackets may protect you from the brake G. Downhill, Stunt or Competition Biking straddle cable catching on the tire in the event of brake cable failure. If a brake straddle cable catches on the tire, it can ! WARNING: Although many catalogs, advertisements and cause the wheel to stop suddenly, causing you to loose control articles about bicycling depict riders jumping, racing or stunt and fall. riding, this activity is extremely dangerous and increases your If you must ride under conditions of poor visibility, check risk of injury or death, and increase the severity of any injury. and be sure you comply with all local laws about night riding, Remember that the action depicted is being performed by and take the following strongly recommended additional professionals with many years of training and experience. Know precautions: your limits and always wear a helmet and other appropriate • Make sure that your bicycle is equipped with correctly safety gear. Even with state-of-the-art protective safety gear, positioned and securely mounted reflectors. you could be seriously injured or killed when jumping, stunt • Purchase and install battery or generator powered riding, riding downhill at speed or in competition. head and tail lights which meet all regulatory requirements and provide adequate visibility. ! CAUTION: Bicycles and bicycle parts have limitations with • Wear light colored, reflective clothing and accessories, regard to strength and integrity, and this type of riding can such as a reflective vest, reflective arm and leg bands, exceed those limitations. reflective stripes on your helmet, flashing lights ... any reflective device or light source that moves will help you get the attention of approaching motorists, pedestrians and other traffic. • Make sure your clothing or anything you may be carrying on the bicycle does not obstruct a reflector or light. While riding at dawn, at dusk or at night: • Ride slowly. • Avoid dark areas and areas of heavy or fast-moving traffic. • Avoid road hazards.  We recommend against this type of riding because of add accessories, you do so at your own risk. The bicycle’s the increased risks; but if you ignore this recommendation, manufacturer may not have tested that component or at least: accessory for compatibility, reliability or safety on your bicycle. • Take lessons from a competent instructor first Before installing any component or accessory, including • Do stunts, racing or fast downhill riding only in areas a different size tire, make sure that it is compatible with designated for this type of riding your bicycle by checking with your dealer. Be sure to read, • Start with easy learning exercises and slowly develop understand and follow the instructions that accompany the your skills before trying more dangerous riding products you purchase for your bicycle. • Wear a full face helmet, safety pads, and other safety gear • Make sure by checking with your dealer that your bike ! WARNING: Failure to confirm compatibility, properly install, is suitable for the kind of stunt or competition riding you plan operate and maintain any component or accessory can result to do in serious injury or death. • Understand and recognize that the stresses imposed on your bike by this kind of activity may break or damage parts ! CAUTION: Changing the components on your bike may of the bicycle and void the warranty void the warranty. Refer to your warranty, and check with your • Take your bicycle to your dealer if anything breaks or dealer before changing the components on your bike. bends. Do not ride your bicycle when any part is damaged. If you ride downhill at speed, do stunt riding or ride in competition, you voluntarily assume an increased risk of 3. Fit injury or death. Have your bicycle and equipment carefully inspected by a qualified mechanic and be sure it is in perfect NOTE: Correct fit is an essential element of bicycling safety, condition. Consult with expert riders and race officials on performance and comfort. Making the adjustments to your conditions and equipment advisable at the site where you plan bicycle which result in correct fit for your body and riding to ride. Wear appropriate safety gear, including an approved conditions requires experience, skill and special tools. Always full face helmet, full finger gloves, and body armor. Know the have your dealer make the adjustments on your bicycle; or, limits of your skill and experience. Ultimately, avoiding injury is if you have the experience, skill and tools, have your dealer your responsibility. check your work before riding.

Make sure the bike fits. A bike that’s too big or too small is H. Changing Components or Adding Accessories harder to control and can be uncomfortable. There are many components and accessories available to enhance the comfort, performance and appearance of your bicycle. However, if you change components or 10 ! WARNING: If your bicycle does not fit properly, you may B. Saddle position lose control and fall. If your new bike doesn’t fit, ask your dealer Correct saddle adjustment is an important factor in getting to exchange it before you ride it. the most performance and comfort from your bicycle. If the saddle position is not comfortable for you, see your dealer, A. Standover height who has the tools and skill to change it. Standover height is the basic element of bike fit (see fig. 2). The saddle can be adjusted in three directions: It is the distance from the ground to the top of the bicycle’s 1. Up and down frame at that point where your 2. Forward and back crotch would be if you were 3. Horizontal angle straddling the bike and standing Ask your dealer to set the saddle half way between the saddle in the position he recommends for you, and the handlebars. To check for and to show you how to make further correct standover height, straddle adjustments. the bike while wearing the kind Small changes in saddle position can of shoes in which you’ll be riding, have a substantial effect on performance and bounce vigorously on your and comfort. Only one directional change heels. If your crotch touches the at a time, and only a small change at frame, the bike is too big for you. a time, should be made to your saddle Don’t even ride the bike around position. the block. A bike which you ride Always make sure that your seat post only on paved surfaces and does not extend from the frame beyond the never take off-road should give Minimum Insertion or Maximum Extension you a minimum standover height mark engraved on it. clearance of two inches (5 cm). A bike that you’ll ride on unpaved surfaces should give you a minimum of four inches (7.5 cm) of standover height clearance. And a bike that you’ll ! WARNING: If your seat post projects from the frame beyond use for rough terrain, jumping or stunt riding should give you the Minimum Insertion or Maximum Extension mark (see fig. 3) four inches (10 cm) or more of clearance. or you cannot touch the bottom of the seat post through the bottom of the interrupted seat tube with the tip of your finger without inserting your finger beyond its first knuckle (see fig. 4), the seat post may break, which could cause you to lose WARNING: If you plan to use your bike for jumping or stunt ! control and fall. riding, read Section 2.G again. 11 NOTE: If your bicycle is equipped with a suspension seat post, be able to change handlebar height by moving height periodically ask your dealer to check it. adjustment spacers from below the stem to above the stem, or vice versa. Otherwise, you’ll have to get a stem of different length or rise. Consult your dealer. Do not attempt to do this ! WARNING: After any saddle adjustment, be sure that yourself, as it requires special knowledge. the saddle adjusting mechanism is properly tightened before If your bike has a “quill” stem, you can ask your dealer to riding. A loose saddle clamp or seat post binder can cause adjust the handlebar height a bit by adjusting stem height. damage to the seat post, or can cause you to lose control A quill stem has an etched or stamped mark on its shaft and fall. A correctly tightened saddle adjusting mechanism which designates the stem’s “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum will allow no saddle movement in any direction. Periodically extension”. This mark must not be visible above the headset. check to make sure that the saddle adjusting mechanism is properly tightened. ! WARNING: The stem’s Minimum Insertion Mark must not be If, in spite of carefully adjusting the saddle height, tilt and visible above the top of the headset. If the stem is extended fore-and-aft position, your saddle is still uncomfortable, you beyond the Minimum Insertion Mark the stem may break or may need a different saddle design. Saddles, like people, damage the fork’s steerer tube, which could cause you to lose come in many different shapes, sizes and resilience. Your control and fall. dealer can help you select a saddle which, when correctly adjusted for your body and riding style, will be comfortable. ! WARNING: On some bicycles, changing the stem or stem height can affect the tension of the front brake cable, WARNING: Some people have claimed that extended ! locking the front brake or creating excess cable slack which riding with a saddle which is incorrectly adjusted or which can make the front brake inoperable. If the front brake pads does not support your pelvic area correctly can cause short- move in towards the wheel rim or out away from the wheel rim term or long-term injury to nerves and blood vessels, or even when the stem or stem height is changed, the brakes must be impotence. If your saddle causes you pain, numbness or other correctly adjusted before you ride the bicycle. discomfort, see your dealer. Your dealer can also change the angle of the handlebar C. Handlebar height and angle or bar end extensions. Your bike is equipped either with a “threadless” stem, which clamps on to the outside of the steerer tube, or with a “quill” stem, which clamps inside the steerer tube by way of ! WARNING: An insufficiently tightened stem binder bolt, an expanding binder bolt. If you aren’t absolutely sure which handlebar binder bolt or bar end extension clamping bolt type of stem your bike has, ask your dealer. may compromise steering action, which could cause you If your bike has a “threadless” stem, your dealer may to lose control and fall. Place the front wheel of the bicycle 12 between your legs and attempt to twist the handlebar/stem have even the slightest doubt as to whether you understand assembly. If you can twist the stem in relation to the front wheel, something in this section of the Manual, talk to your dealer. turn the handlebars in relation to the stem, or turn the bar end extensions in relation to the handlebar, the bolts are insufficiently A. Brakes tightened. Your bicycle is equipped either with a coaster brake D. Control position adjustments (described in paragraph 1 below) or with hand brakes The angle of the controls and their position on the (described in paragraph 2 below). Be sure that you handlebars can be changed. Ask your dealer to make the understand how your bicycle’s brakes work before you take adjustments for you. your first ride, by reading and understanding paragraph 1 or 2 and paragraph 3 below. E. Brake reach Many bikes have brake levers which can be adjusted for reach. If you have small hands or find it difficult to squeeze ! WARNING: the brake levers, your dealer can either adjust the reach or fit 1. Riding with improperly adjusted brakes or worn brake shorter reach brake levers. pads is dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. 2. Applying brakes too hard or too suddenly can lock up a wheel, which could cause you to lose control and fall. ! WARNING: The shorter the brake lever reach, the more Sudden or excessive application of the front brake may pitch critical it is to have correctly adjusted brakes, so that full the rider over the handlebars, which may result in serious injury braking power can be applied within available brake lever or death. travel. Brake lever travel insufficient to apply full braking 3. Some bicycle brakes, such as disc brakes (fig. 6) and power can result in loss of control, which may result in serious linear-pull brakes (fig. 7), are extremely powerful. Take extra injury or death. care in becoming familiar with these brakes and exercise particular care when using them. 4. Disc brakes can get extremely hot with extended use. 4. Tech Be careful not to touch a disc brake until it has had plenty of It’s important to your safety, performance and enjoyment time to cool. to understand how things work on your bicycle. We urge 5. Please see the brake you to ask your dealer how to do the things described in this manufacturer’s instructions for section before you attempt them yourself, and that you have operation and care of your disk your dealer check your work before you ride the bike. If you brake. If you do not have the manufacturer’s instructions, see 13 your dealer or contact the brake manufacturer. with the right brake lever controlling the 1. Coaster Brake rear brake, and the left lever controlling the front brake. a. How the coaster brake works NOTE: If your bicycle is equipped The coaster brake is a sealed mechanism which is a part with both front and rear brakes, most of the bicycle’s rear wheel hub. The brake is activated by effective braking is achieved by reversing the rotation of the pedal cranks (see fig. 5). Start with using both brakes and apply them the pedal cranks in a nearly horizontal position, with the front simultaneously. (See also par. 3. Braking pedal in about the 4 o’clock position, and apply downward technique, below). foot pressure on the pedal that is to the rear. About 1/8 turn rotation will activate the brake. The more downward pressure ! WARNING: Sudden or excessive you apply, the more braking force, up to the point where the application of the front brake may pitch rear wheel stops rotating and begins to skid (see paragraph the rider over the handlebars, which 3. Braking Technique, below). may result in serious injury or death. ! CAUTION: Before riding, make sure that the brake is The braking action of bicycle working properly. If it is not working properly, have the bicycle hand brakes is a function of the friction checked by your dealer before you ride it. between the brake shoes and the wheel rim or brake disc. To make sure that you b. Adjusting your coaster brake have maximum friction available, keep Coaster brake service and adjustment requires special your wheel rims, brake shoes and brake tools and special knowledge. Do not attempt to disassemble discs clean and free of lubricants, waxes or service your coaster brake. Take the bicycle to your dealer or polishes. for coaster brake service. Make sure that your hands can reach and squeeze the brake levers 2. Hand Brakes comfortably. If your hands are too small to operate the levers comfortably, a. How hand brakes work consult your dealer before riding A bicycle with hand brakes may have one hand lever the bike. The lever reach may be which operates a rear brake, or two hand levers, one of which adjustable; or you may need a different operates on the front wheel and the other on the rear wheel. If brake lever design. your bicycle has two hand brakes, it’s important to your safety Some hand brakes have a quick that you instinctively know which brake lever controls which release mechanism (figs. 7-10) to allow brake on your bike. In the U.S., bikes are required to be set up the brake shoes to clear the tire when a 14 wheel is removed or reinstalled. When the brake quick release Check, have your dealer check the is in the released position, the brakes are inoperative. Ask your brakes. dealer whether you have a quick release on your brakes; and if you do, make sure that you understand the way the brake ! CAUTION: Some bicycles are quick release works, and check each time to make sure both equipped with a device called a brakes work correctly before you get on the bike. Brake Rotor, which allows the steering mechanism to turn a full 360 degrees. ! WARNING: Some bicycle brakes, such as linear-pull (fig. 7) Adjusting brakes equipped with a and disc (fig. 6) brakes, are extremely Brake Rotor requires special knowledge powerful. You should take extra care and skill. Do not attempt to adjust the in becoming familiar with these brakes front brake of a bicycle equipped and exercise particular care when with a Brake Rotor. Take the bicycle to a dealer for service using them. Applying these brakes too and adjustment of the brakes. A rotor may also decrease the hard or too suddenly can lock up a clearance between the front wheel and the pedals when the wheel, which could cause you to lose wheel is turned backwards. control and fall. 3. Braking technique b. Adjusting your hand brakes Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just to If either brake lever on your bike stop the bike. Maximum braking force for a wheel occurs at fails the Mechanical Safety Check the point just before the wheel “locks up” (stops rotating) and (Section 1.C.) you may be able to starts to skid. Once the tire skids, you actually lose most of your restore brake lever travel by turning stopping force and all directional control. You need to practice the brake cable adjusting barrel (fig. slowing and stopping smoothly without locking up a wheel. 11) counterclockwise; then lock the The technique is called progressive brake modulation. Instead adjustment in by turning the barrel’s of slamming on the coaster brake or jerking the brake lever lock nut clockwise as far as it will to the position where you think you’ll generate appropriate go. If the lever still fails braking force, apply progressive force on the pedal or squeeze the Mechanical Safety the lever, progressively increasing the braking force. If you feel the wheel begin to lock up, release pressure just a little to keep the wheel rotating just short of lockup. It’s important to develop a feel for the amount of brake pressure required for a wheel at different speeds and on different surfaces. To better understand this, experiment a little by riding your bike slowly in an unrestricted area and applying different amounts 15 of pressure to the brake, until the wheel locks. its clamping mechanism is incorrectly When you apply the brake(s), the bike begins to slow, adjusted. Secondary retention but your body wants to continue at the speed at which it devices are not a substitute for was going. This causes a transfer of weight to the front wheel correct wheel clamping. (or, under heavy braking with hand brakes, around the front Secondary retention devices fall wheel hub, which could send you flying over the handlebars). into three basic categories (see figs. A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater brake 12a, b & c): pressure before lockup; a wheel with less weight will lock up a. The clip-on type is a part with less brake pressure. So, as you apply brakes and your which the manufacturer adds to weight shifts forward, you need to shift your body toward the front wheel hub or front fork (fig. the rear of the bike, to transfer weight back on to the rear 12a). wheel. With hand brakes, you can further improve brake b. The integral type is molded, performance by simultaneously decreasing rear braking cast or machined into the outer and increasing front braking force. Shifting weight to the rear faces of the front fork dropouts (fig. wheel is even more important on steep descents, because 12b). descents shift weight forward. c. The washer type is a hat- The keys to effective speed control and safe stopping are shaped washer which fits into a controlling wheel lockup and weight transfer. Practice braking matching hole in the front fork dropout (fig. 12c). and weight transfer techniques where there is no traffic or other Ask your dealer to explain the particular secondary hazards and distractions. retention device on your bike. Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces or in wet weather. Tire adhesion is reduced, so the wheels have ! WARNING: Removing or disabling the secondary retention less cornering and braking traction and can lock up with less device is extremely dangerous and may lead to serious injury brake force. Moisture or dirt on the brake shoes of hand brakes or death. It also may void the warranty. reduces their ability to grip. The way to maintain control on loose or wet surfaces is to go more slowly to begin with. NOTE: Some bicycles are equipped with a lever action quick release wheel retention mechanism. If your bicycle has quick release wheels, see Appendix C for information B. Wheels on how they work.

1. Front Wheel Secondary Retention Devices 2. Removing a Bolt‑On Front Wheel Most bicycles have front forks which utilize a secondary a. If your bicycle has a front wheel hand brake with wheel retention device to keep the wheel from disengaging if quick release, open up the brake shoes (see Section 4.A.2.a. above). 16 b. With a correctly sized socket, box, open-end or b. If the wheel is equipped adjustable wrench, loosen the two axle nuts. with chain tension adjusters (fig. c. If your front fork has a clip‑on type secondary retention 14) loosen the nuts on the adjusters device, disengage it and go to step (4). If by turning both counterclockwise your front fork has an integral or a washer with a correctly sized open end type secondary retention device, loosen or adjustable wrench an equal the axle nuts enough to allow removal of number of turns. This allows you to the wheel; then go to step (4). move the wheel as required by step d. Raise the front wheel a few inches (4) below. off the ground and tap the top of the c. With a correctly sized wheel with the palm of your hand to knock socket, box, open end or adjustable wrench, loosen the two the wheel out of the fork ends. axle nuts. d. Push the wheel forward to slacken the chain, and 3. Installing a Bolt‑On Front Wheel remove the chain from the chainring and wheel sprocket. a. With the steering fork facing forward, insert the wheel e. Pull the wheel out of the frame. between the fork blades so that the axle seats firmly at the top of the slots which are at the tips of the fork blades. The 5. Installing a Bolt‑On Rear Wheel with Hand Brake axle nut washers should be on the outside, between the fork a. Put the chain on to the wheel sprocket. Then, insert the blade and the axle nut. If your bike has a clip‑on or washer wheel into the frame dropouts and push it all the way in to type secondary retention device, engage it. the dropouts. The axle nut washers should be on the outside, b. While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the slots between the frame and the axle nut. in the fork dropouts, and at the same time centering the b. Put the chain on to the chainring. wheel rim in the fork, use a correctly sized socket, box, open c. If your wheel has chain tension adjusters (fig. 14), position end or adjustable wrench to tighten the axle nuts as tight the chain tension adjusters in the dropouts and, using a wrench as you can. to turn the adjuster nuts clockwise, pull the wheel back in the c. If your bicycle has a front wheel hand brake with quick dropouts so that it is straight in the frame and the chain has release, close the brake shoes; then spin the wheel to make about 1/4 inches of up-and-down play. Replace chain adjuster sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake end caps if provided. shoes, and squeeze the brake lever to make sure the brake is d. Tighten the axle nuts as tightly as you can, using a functioning correctly. correctly sized socket, box, open end or adjustable wrench. e. Close the brake; then spin the wheel to make sure 4. Removing a Bolt‑On Rear Wheel with Hand Brake that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake shoes, a. Open the rear brake shoes (see Section 4.A.2.a. above).

17 and squeeze the brake lever to make sure the brake is wheel when you turn the handlebars to steer while a pedal is functioning correctly. in the forwardmost position. This is common on small-framed 6. Removing a Bolt‑On Rear Wheel bicycles, and is avoided by keeping the inside pedal up and with Coaster Brake the outside pedal down when turning. a. Disengage the coaster brake arm from its frame bracket (see fig. 15). ! WARNING: Toe Overlap could cause you to lose control b. With a correctly sized socket, and fall. If you have toe overlap, exercise extra care when box, open end or adjustable turning. A brake rotor (see Section 4.A.2.b) may also decrease wrench, loosen the two axle nuts. the clearance between the front wheel and the pedal when c. Push the wheel forward to slacken the chain, and the wheel is turned backwards. remove the chain from the chainring and wheel sprocket. d. Pull the wheel out of the frame. 2. Some higher performance bicycles come equipped with pedals that have abrasive and potentially dangerous 7. Installing a Bolt‑On Rear Wheel with Coaster Brake surfaces. These surfaces are designed to add safety by a. Put the chain on to the wheel sprocket. Then, insert increasing adhesion between the rider’s shoe and the pedal. If the wheel into the frame dropouts and push it all the way in to your bicycle has this type of high-performance pedal, you must the dropouts. The axle nut washers should be on the outside, take extra care to avoid serious injury from the pedals’ sharp between the frame and the axle nut. surfaces. Based on your riding style or skill level, you may prefer b. Put the chain on to the chainring. a less aggressive pedal design. Your dealer can show you a c. Pull the wheel back in the dropouts so that it is straight number of options and make suitable recommendations. in the frame and the chain has about 1/4 inches of up-and- down play. 3. Clipless pedals (sometimes called “step-in pedals”) d. Secure the coaster brake arm to its frame bracket (see are another means to keep feet securely in the correct fig. 15), but do not fully tighten the securing nut and bolt. position for maximum pedaling efficiency. They look like ski e. Tighten the axle nuts as tightly as you can, using a bindings ... a plate on the sole of the shoe clicks into a spring- correctly sized socket, box, open end or adjustable wrench. loaded fixture on the pedal ... but unlike ski bindings, they only Spin the wheel to make sure it is straight in the frame. engage or disengage with a very specific motion which must f. Fully tighten the coaster brake arm securing nut and bolt be practiced to become instinctive. Clipless pedals require and check to make sure the brake is functioning correctly. shoes and cleats which are compatible with the make and model pedal being used. C. Pedals Many clipless pedals are designed to allow the rider to 1. Toe Overlap is when your toe can touch the front adjust the amount of force needed to engage or disengage the foot. Follow the pedal manufacturer’s instructions, or 18 ask your dealer to show you how to make this adjustment. Use the easiest setting until engaging and disengaging ! WARNING: Failure to maintain, check and properly adjust becomes a reflex action, but always make sure that there the suspension system may result in suspension malfunction, is sufficient tension to prevent unintended release of your which may cause you to lose control and fall. foot from the pedal. If your bike has suspension, the increased speed you may develop also increases your risk of injury. For example, when ! WARNING: Clipless pedals are intended for use with shoes braking, the front of a suspended bike dips. You could lose .specifcally made to fit them and are designed to firmly keep control and fall if you do not have experience with this system the foot engaged with the pedal. Using shoes which do not Learn to handle your suspension system safely. engage the pedals correctly is dangerous. See also Section 4.A. Practice is required to learn to engage and disengage the foot safely. Until engaging and disengaging the foot becomes a reflex action, the technique requires concentration which ! WARNING: Changing suspension adjustment can change can distract the rider’s attention, causing the rider to lose the handling and braking characteristics of your bicycle. Never control and fall. Practice engaging and disengaging clipless change suspension adjustment unless you are thoroughly pedals in a place where there are no obstacles, hazards or familiar with the suspension system manufacturer’s instructions traffic; and be sure to follow the pedal manufacturer’s setup and recommendations, and always check for changes in and service instructions. If you do not have the manufacturer’s the handling and braking characteristics of the bicycle after instructions, see your dealer or contact the manufacturer. a suspension adjustment by taking a careful test ride in a Never do stunt riding with clipless pedals. If you lose hazard-free area. control, your foot could remain engaged in the pedal, resulting Suspension can increase control and comfort by allowing in serious injury. the wheels to better follow the terrain. This enhanced capability may allow you to ride faster; but you must not confuse the D. Bicycle Suspension enhanced capabilities of the bicycle with your own capabilities Many bicycles are equipped with suspension systems. as a rider. Increasing your skill will take time and practice. There are many different types of suspension systems — too Proceed carefully until you have learned to handle the full many to deal with individually in this Manual. If your bicycle capabilities of your bike. has a suspension system of any kind, be sure to read and follow the suspension manufacturer’s setup and service instructions. If you do not have the manufacturer’s instructions, see your ! CAUTION: Not all bicycles can be safely retrofitted with dealer or contact the manufacturer. some types of suspension systems. Before retrofitting a bicycle with any suspension, check with the bicycle’s manufacturer

19 to make sure that what you want to do is compatible with the for bicycle tires. They move a large volume of air very rapidly, bicycle’s design. and will raise the pressure in your tire very rapidly, which could cause the tube to explode. E. Tires and Tubes Tire pressure is given either as maximum pressure or as a 1. Tires pressure range. How a tire performs under different terrain or Bicycle tires are available in many designs and weather conditions depends largely on tire pressure. Inflating specifications, ranging from general-purpose designs to tires the tire to near its maximum recommended pressure gives the .designed to perform best under very specifc weather or lowest ; but also produces the harshest ride terrain conditions. If, once you’ve gained experience with High pressures work best on smooth, dry pavement. your new bike, you feel that a different tire might better suit Very low pressures, at the bottom of the recommended your riding needs, your dealer can help you select the most pressure range, give the best performance on smooth, slick appropriate design. terrain such as hard-packed clay, and on deep, loose surfaces The size, pressure rating, and on some high-performance such as deep, dry sand. tires the specific recommended use, are marked on the Tire pressure that is too low for your weight and the riding sidewall of the tire (see fig. 16). The part of this information conditions can cause a puncture of the tube by allowing the which is most important to you is Tire Pressure. tire to deform sufficiently to pinch the inner tube between the rim and the riding surface, or damage the wheel rim, making the wheel unsafe. ! WARNING: Never inflate a tire beyond the maximum pressure marked on the tire’s sidewall. Exceeding the recommended ! CAUTION: Pencil type automotive tire gauges can be maximum pressure may blow the inaccurate and should not be relied upon for consistent, tire off the rim, which could cause accurate pressure readings. Instead, use a high quality damage to the bike and injury to dial gauge. the rider and bystanders. Ask your dealer to recommend the best tire pressure for The best and safest way to inflate the kind of riding you will most often do, and have the dealer a to the correct pressure inflate your tires to that pressure. Then, check inflation as is with a bicycle pump which has a described in Section 1.C so you’ll know how correctly inflated built-in pressure gauge. tires should look and feel. Some tires may need to be brought up to pressure every week or two. ! WARNING: There is a safety risk Some special high-performance tires have unidirectional in using gas station air hoses or other treads: their tread pattern is designed to work better in air compressors. They are not made one direction than in the other. The sidewall marking of 20 a unidirectional tire will have an arrow do not apply the patch correctly or apply several patches, the showing the correct rotation direction. If tube can fail, resulting in possible tube failure, which could your bike has unidirectional tires, be sure cause you to loose control and fall. Replace a patched tube that they are mounted to rotate in the as soon as possible. correct direction. 2. Tire Valves 5. Service There are primarily two kinds of bicycle tube valves: The Schraeder Valve and the ! WARNING: Technological advances have made bicycles . The bicycle pump you use and bicycle components more complex, and the pace of must have the fitting appropriate to the innovation is increasing. It is impossible for this manual to valve stems on your bicycle. provide all the information required to properly repair and/or The Schraeder valve (fig. 17) is like the maintain your bicycle. In order to help minimize the chances valve on a car tire. To inflate a Schraeder of an accident and possible injury, it is critical that you have valve tube, remove the valve cap and any repair or maintenance which is not specifcally described clamp the pump head onto the end of in this manual performed by your dealer. Equally important the . To let air out of a Schraeder is that your individual maintenance requirements will be valve, depress the pin in the end of the determined by everything from your riding style to geographic valve stem with the end of a key or other location. Consult your dealer for help in determining your appropriate object. maintenance requirements. The Presta valve (fig. 18) has a narrower diameter and is only found on bicycle tires. To inflate a Presta valve tube using a Presta headed bicycle pump, remove the valve cap; unscrew ! WARNING: Many bicycle service and repair tasks require (counterclockwise) the valve stem lock nut; and push down special knowledge and tools. Do not begin any adjustments on the valve stem to free it up. Then push the pump head on or service on your bicycle until you have learned from your to the valve head, and inflate. To inflate a Presta valve with a dealer how to properly complete them. Improper adjustment or Schraeder pump fitting, you need a Presta adapter (available service may result in damage to the bicycle or in an accident at your bike shop) which screws on to the valve stem once which can cause serious injury or death. you’ve freed up the valve. The adapter fits into the Schraeder If you want to learn to do major service and repair work pump fitting. Close the valve after inflation. To let air out of on your bike, you have three options: a Presta valve, open up the valve stem lock nut and depress 1. Ask your dealer for copies of the manufacturer’s the valve stem. installation and service instructions for the components on your bike, or contact the component manufacturer. ! WARNING: Patching a tube is an emergency repair. If you 2. Ask your dealer to recommend a book on bicycle repair. 21 3. Ask your dealer about the availability of bicycle repair 3. After every long or hard ride if the bike has been exposed courses in your area. to water or grit, or at least every 100 miles: Clean the bike and Regardless of which option you select, we recommend lightly oil the chain. Wipe off excess oil. Lubrication is a function that you ask your dealer to check the quality of your work the of climate. Talk to your dealer about the best lubricants and the first time you work on something and before you ride the bike, recommended lubrication frequency for your area. just to make sure that you did everything correctly. Since that 4. After every long or hard ride or after every 10 to 20 will require the time of a mechanic, there may be a modest hours of riding: charge for this service. • Squeeze the front brake (if you have one) and rock the bike forward and back. Everything feel solid? If you feel a clunk A. Service Intervals with each forward or backward movement of the bike, you Some service and maintenance can and should be probably have a loose headset. Have your dealer check it. performed by the owner, and requires no special tools or • Lift the front wheel off the ground and swing it from side knowledge beyond what is presented in this manual. to side. Feel smooth? If you feel any binding or roughness in The following are examples of the type of service you the steering, you may have a tight headset. Have your dealer should perform yourself. All other service, maintenance and check it. repair should be performed in a properly equipped facility • Grab one pedal and rock it toward and away from the by a qualified bicycle mechanic using the correct tools and centerline of the bike; then do the same with the other pedal. procedures specified by the manufacturer. Anything feel loose? If so, have your dealer check it. 1. Break-in Period: Your bike will last longer and work • Take a look at the brake pads. Starting to look worn or better if you break it in before riding it hard. Control cables not hitting the wheel rim squarely? Time to have the dealer and wheel spokes may stretch or “seat” when a new bike is adjust or replace them. first used and may require readjustment by your dealer. Your • Carefully check the control cables and cable Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C) will help you identify housings. Any rust? Kinks? Fraying? If so, have your dealer some things that need readjustment. But even if everything replace them. seems fine to you, it’s best to take your bike back to the dealer • Squeeze each adjoining pair of spokes on either side of for a checkup. Dealers typically suggest you bring the bike in each wheel between your thumb and index finger. Do they for a 30 day checkup. Another way to judge when it’s time all feel about the same? If any feel loose, have your dealer for the first checkup is to bring the bike in after three to five check the wheel for tension and trueness. hours of hard off-road use, or about 10 to 15 hours of on-road • Check the frame, particularly in the area around all or more casual off-road use. But if you think something is wrong tube joints; the handlebars; the stem; and the seatpost for with the bike, take it to your dealer before riding it again. any deep scratches, cracks or discoloration. These are signs 2. Before every ride: Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C)

22 of stress-caused fatigue and indicate that a part is at the end Next, check your bike for damage, and fix what you can of its useful life and needs to be replaced. so you can get home. Then, take your bicycle to your dealer • Check to make sure that all parts and accessories are for a thorough check. still secure, and tighten any which are not. ! WARNING: Like any mechanical device, a bicycle and its ! WARNING: A crash or other impact can put extraordinary components are subject to wear and stress. Different materials stress on bicycle components, causing them to fatigue and mechanisms wear or fatigue from stress at different rates prematurely. Components suffering from stress fatigue can and have different life cycles. If a component’s life cycle is fail suddenly and catastrophically, causing loss of control, exceeded, the component can suddenly and catastrophically serious injury or death. fail, causing serious injury or death to the rider. Scratches, cracks, fraying and discoloration are signs of stress-caused fatigue and indicate that a part is at the end of its useful life and needs to be replaced. While the materials and workmanship of your bicycle or of individual components may be covered by a warranty for a specified period of time by the manufacturer, this is no guarantee that the product will last the term of the warranty. Product life is often related to the kind of riding you do and to the treatment to which you subject the bicycle. The bicycle’s warranty is not meant to suggest that the bicycle cannot be broken or will last forever. It only means that the bicycle is covered subject to the terms of the warranty.

5. As required: If either brake lever fails the Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C), don’t ride the bike. Have your dealer check the brakes. 6. Every 25 (hard off-road) to 50 (on-road) hours of riding: Take your bike to your dealer for a complete checkup.

B. If your bicycle sustains an impact: First, check yourself for injuries, and take care of them as best you can. Seek medical help if necessary.

23 your car in front of the driveway, if local ordinance permits. This Appendix A way, your child can’t use the driveway as a launching pad. But the most important thing you can do is teach your child Teaching your Child the Rules about driveway safety. Take your child outside to the driveway and have him/her practice the following steps: In addition to The Basics (page 6), Riding Safely (page 7), 1) Stop before entering the street. Off Road Safety (page 8), Wet Weather Riding (page 9), Night 2) Look left, right and left again for traffic. Riding (page 9), Bicycling in Traffic (page 10 and Appendix 3) If there’s no traffic, proceed into the roadway. B) and Downhill, Stunt and Competition Biking (page 10), kids need to be taught ... and to have frequently reinforced ... the b. Running the Stop Sign following rules and lessons which adults are already expected Car/bike crashes can happen when a cyclist runs a stop to know. We urge you to take the time to familiarize yourself sign. Most cyclists who get hit riding through stop signs know with these rules and to teach them to your child before you that they were supposed to stop. They just thought it would be let your child ride unsupervised. OK this time; or they may have been distracted. The thing to impress upon your child is that while he/she may not get hit every 1. Rules time, running stop signs will eventually result in an accident. • No playing in the road or in the street. What can you do? Take your child to a stop sign near home. • No riding on busy streets. Explain what it means by emphasizing the following points: • No riding at dawn, dusk or at night. 1) Stop at all stop signs, regardless of what is happening. • Stop for all STOP signs. 2) Look in all directions for traffic. • Ride on the right of traffic. 3) Watch for oncoming cars making left turns. 4) Watch for cars behind you making right turns. 2. Lessons 5) Wait for any cross traffic to clear. The lessons that follow relate to some of the most common 6) Proceed when safe. real situations that children encounter when riding their bikes. In order to make this lesson stick, you may have to change Go over these situations with your child and make sure the your own driving habits. If you creep through intersections lesson objective is accomplished. controlled by stop signs, you are showing your child that you don’t really believe what you preach. For your child’s sake, a. Driveway Rideout stop at stop signs. When a youngster rides out of the driveway and is struck by a car, that is called a rideout accident. c. Turning Without Warning What can you do? First, realize the danger of your own Another major accident type involves cyclists who make driveway. If there are obstructions to the view of passing unexpected left turns. They neither look behind for traffic, nor motorists (like bushes or trees), trim them back. You might park 24 do they signal. The key factor here is neglecting to look to the e. Following the Leader rear. If the cyclist had looked, he/she would have seen the There is increased risk of car/bike collision if children are danger coming up from behind. following each other, because if the first one does something What can you do? Of course, you ought to teach your child dangerous, those following may do it too. not to ride across busy streets - at least until the child has had What can you do? Teach your child to always assess the some advanced training and is old enough to understand traffic situation for him/herself. When a group is riding around, traffic. But in the meantime, for residential street riding, you each cyclist should stop for stop signs; each cyclist should look can teach your child to always look and signal before turning to the rear before making left turns; and so on. One way to left. A big part of this lesson is teaching the child how to look get the message across is to play a game with the child similar to the rear without swerving. to ‘Simon Says’. In this game, however, the emphasis should Take your child to a playground or a safe area away from not be on doing what ‘Simon Says’, but rather have the child traffic or obstructions to practice riding along a straight line make a decision based on the situation. The child should learn while looking behind. Stand alongside and hold up a different to ignore what ‘Simon Says’. Children need to learn to think number of fingers on your hand after the child rides by. Call for themselves to ride safely. his/her name. After 15 minutes of practice, a ten year old should be able to look behind his/herself and identify how SUMMARY many fingers you are holding up - without swerving. Teach your child early - the earlier the better. Learning skills such as looking and avoiding hazards takes time. Be prepared d. Riding at Dawn, at Dusk or at Night to repeat lessons until your child understands what you’re (See also Section 4.F, page 19). trying to get across. Be patient. Your efforts will be rewarded, Most car/bicycle accidents happen at night where an knowing that your child is aware of safe riding skills. overtaking car hits a bike. (An overtaking car is one that comes up from behind and passes the cyclist on the left.) These overtaking accidents can be very serious. What can you do? First, you should keep your youngster from riding at dawn, dusk or at night. It requires special skills and equipment. Few children have either. Secondly, make sure your child understands that if he/she gets caught out at dusk or after dark on a bike, the thing to do is to call you for a ride home. One suggestion is to tape a phone number and money to the bike so that, in an emergency, the child will be able to call home.

25 Appendix B Bicycling in Traffic

26 27 it properly, and how much force you need to apply to secure Appendix C the wheel. Wheel and Seat Post Quick Release Mechanisms ! WARNING: The full force of the cam action is needed to A. Quick Release Wheels clamp the wheel securely. Holding the nut with one hand and turning the lever like a wing nut with the other hand until 1. How a Wheel Quick Release Works everything is as tight as you can get it will not clamp the wheel safely in the dropouts.

a. Adjusting the quick release mechanism The wheel hub is clamped in place by the force of the quick release cam pushing against one dropout and pulling the tension adjusting nut, by way of the skewer, against the other dropout. The amount of clamping force is controlled by the tension adjusting nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating increases clamping force; turning it counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating reduces clamping force. Less than half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the difference ! WARNING: Riding with an improperly adjusted wheel quick between safe clamping force and unsafe clamping force. release can allow the wheel to wobble or disengage from the bicycle, causing serious injury or death to the rider. Therefore, b. Front Wheel Secondary Retention Devices it is essential that you: Most bicycles have front forks which utilize a secondary 1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you know how wheel retention device to keep the wheel from disengaging if its to install and remove your wheels safely. clamping mechanism is incorrectly adjusted. Secondary retention 2. Understand and apply the correct technique for devices are not a substitute for correct wheel clamping. clamping your wheel in place with a quick release. Secondary retention devices fall into three basic categories 3. Each time, before you ride the bike, check that the (see Section 4.B figs. 12a, b &c): wheel is securely clamped. (1) The clip-on type is a part which the manufacturer adds to the front wheel hub or front fork (fig. 12a). The wheel quick release uses a cam action to clamp the (2) The integral type is molded, cast or machined into the bike’s wheel in place (see fig. 19). Because of its adjustable outer faces of the front fork dropouts (fig. 12b). nature, it is critical that you understand how it works, how to use (3) The washer type is a hat-shaped washer which fits into 28 a matching hole in the front fork dropout (fig. 12c). Ask your dealer to explain the particular secondary ! CAUTION: If your bike is equipped with disk brakes, be retention device on your bike. careful not to damage the disk, caliper or brake pads when re-inserting the disk into the caliper. Never activate a disk brake’s control lever unless the disk is correctly inserted in the ! WARNING: Removing or disabling the secondary retention caliper. See also Section 4.A. device is extremely dangerous and may lead to serious injury or death. It also may void the warranty. (1) Move the quick-release lever so that it curves away from the wheel (fig. 20b). This is the OPEN position. 2. Removing and Installing Quick Release Wheels (2) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the wheel a. Removing a Quick Release Front Wheel between the fork blades so that the axle seats firmly at the top (1) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the brake’s quick- of the slots which are at the tips of the fork blades — the fork release mechanism to open the clearance between the wheel dropouts. The quick-release lever should be on the left side rim and the brake pads (See Section 4.A of the bicycle (fig. 20a & b). If your bike has a clip-on type figs. 7 through 10). secondary retention device, engage it. (2) Move the wheel’s quick-release (3) Holding the quick-release lever in the OPEN position with lever from the locked or CLOSED position your right hand, tighten the tension adjusting nut with your left to the OPEN position (figs. 20a & b). hand until it is finger tight against the fork dropout (fig. 19). (3) If your front fork does no have a (4) While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the slots in secondary retention device go to step (5). the fork dropouts, and at the same time centering the wheel (4) If your front fork has a clip-on type rim in the fork, move the quick-release lever upwards and swing secondary retention device, disengage it into the CLOSED position (fig. 19 & 20a). The lever should now it and go to step (5). If your front fork has be parallel to the fork blade and curved toward the wheel. an integral secondary retention device, To apply enough clamping force, you should have to wrap loosen the tension adjusting nut enough your fingers around the fork blade for leverage, and the lever to allow removing the wheel; then go to should leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand. the next step. (5) Raise the front wheel a few inches off the ground and tap the top of the ! WARNING: Securely clamping the wheel takes considerable wheel with the palm of your hand to knock force. If you can fully close the quick release without wrapping the wheel out of the fork. your fingers around the fork blade for leverage, and the lever b. Installing a Quick Release Front Wheel does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, the tension is insufficient. Open the lever; turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again. 29 (5) If the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a position the disk into the caliper. Never activate a disk brake’s control parallel to the fork blade, return the lever to the OPEN position. lever unless the disk is correctly inserted in the caliper. Then turn the tension adjusting nut counterclockwise one- quarter turn and try tightening the lever again. (1) Shift the rear derailleur to its outermost position (6) Re-engage the brake quick-release mechanism to (2) Pull the derailleur body back with your right hand. restore correct brake pad-to-rim clearance; spin the wheel (3) Move the quick-release lever to the OPEN position to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the (see fig. 20a & b). The lever should be on the side of the wheel brake pads; then squeeze the brake lever and make sure that opposite the derailleur and freewheel sprockets. the brakes are operating correctly. (4) Put the chain on top of the smallest freewheel sprocket. Then, insert the wheel into the frame dropouts and pull it all the way in to the dropouts. WARNING: Secondary retention devices are not a ! (5) Tighten the quick-release adjusting nut until it is finger substitute for correct quick release adjustment. Failure to tight against the frame dropout; then swing the lever toward properly adjust the quick release mechanism can cause the the front of the bike until it is parallel to the frame’s chainstay wheel to wobble or disengage, which could cause you to loose or seatstay and is curved toward the wheel (fig. 20b). To apply control and fall, resulting in serious injury or death. enough clamping force, you should have to wrap your fingers around a frame tube for leverage, and the lever should leave c. Removing a Quick Release Rear Wheel a clear imprint in the palm of your hand. (1) Shift the rear derailleur to high gear (the smallest, outermost rear sprocket). (2) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the brake’s quick- ! WARNING: Securely clamping the wheel takes considerable release mechanism to open the clearance between the wheel force. If you can fully close the quick release without wrapping rim and the brake pads (see Section 4.A, figs. 7 through 10). your fingers around the seatstay or chainstay for leverage, and (3) Pull the derailleur body back with your right hand. the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your (4) Move the quick-release lever to the OPEN position hand, the tension is insufficient. Open the lever; turn the tension (fig. 20b). adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again (5) Lift the rear wheel off the ground a few inches and, with the derailleur still pulled back, push the wheel forward (6) If the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a position and down until it comes out of the rear dropouts. parallel to the chainstay or seatstay tube, return the lever to the OPEN position. Then turn the adjusting nut counterclockwise d. Installing a Quick Release Rear Wheel one-quarter turn and try tightening again. (7) Push the rear derailleur back into position. NOTE: If your bike is equipped with disk brakes, be careful not (8) Re-engage the brake quick-release mechanism to to damage the disk, caliper or brake pads when re-inserting restore correct brake pad-to-rim clearance; spin the wheel to 30 make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake pads; then squeeze the brake lever and make sure that the brakes are operating correctly. ! WARNING: The full force of the cam action is needed to clamp the seatpost securely. Holding the nut with one hand and turning the lever like a wing nut with the other hand until B. Seatpost Quick Release everything is as tight as you can get it will not clamp the Some bikes are equipped with a quick-release seat post seatpost safely. binder. The seatpost quick-release binder works exactly like the wheel quick-release (Appendix B. A. 1.) While a quick release ! WARNING: If you can fully close the quick release without looks like a long bolt with a lever on one end and a nut on the wrapping your fingers around a frame tube for leverage, and other, the quick release uses a cam action to firmly clamp the the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your seat post (see fig. 19). hand, the tension is insufficient. Open the lever; turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again. ! WARNING: Riding with an improperly tightened seat post can allow the saddle to turn or move and cause you to lose control and fall. Therefore: 1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you know how to correctly clamp your seat post. 2. Understand and apply the correct technique for clamping your seat post quick release. 3. Before you ride the bike, first check that the seatpost is securely clamped.

1. Adjusting the seatpost quick release mechanism The action of the quick release cam squeezes the seat collar around the seat post to hold the seat post securely in place. The amount of clamping force is controlled by the tension adjusting nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating increases clamping force; turning it counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating reduces clamping force. Less than half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the difference between safe and unsafe clamping force. 31