Gardening Bascics

Gardening Bascics Consider this edition a Gardening 101 course. You will learn everything you need to know about your hardiness zone and how to properly water your plants. We will even answer your questions about how to tell if you are over- or under-watering. KnowYour ZONE Will dahlias grow well in my yard? When is the corded for each of the years 1974 to 1986 in the best time of year to plant a new cypress tree? If United States and Canada and 1971 to 1984 in I leave my annuals in containers on the deck in Mexico. The map shows 10 different zones, each November will they survive? Will chrysanthe- of which represents an area of winter hardiness mums flourish in my garden? When can I plant for the plants of agriculture and our natural vegetable seedlings in my garden? landscape. It also introduces zone 11 to repre- sent areas that have average annual minimum Gardeners have many questions when it comes temperatures above 40 degrees Fahrenheit and to selecting and caring for plants, trees, and that are therefore essentially frost-free. shrubs. Asking those important questions will increase gardening success. There are many How the Map Started factors to consider before purchasing plants Every plant can adapt to a range of environ- and planting in your garden. The first step is to ments. Gardeners have learned through ex- know your climate. perience where the great variety of landscape plants can be grown. Over the years, many The United States Department of Agriculture schemes have been proposed to help gardeners has made this easy by putting together a col- locate those environments when they introduce or-coded map of the United States, based on the new species, forms, and cultivars. In 1960, the average annual minimum temperature for each pooling of many of these schemes culminated zone. This map is called the Hardiness Zone in the development of the widely used “Plant Map. It is the map that most gardeners in the Hardiness Zone Map,” under the supervision United States look to for guidance on planting. of Henry T. Skinner, the second director of the Your local nursery or garden center probably U.S. National Arboretum. In cooperation with sells a majority of the plants that flourish in the American Horticultural Society, he worked your zone. In fact, many plant tags will indicate with horticultural scientists throughout the “ideal growing zone”. If you are unsure whether United States to incorporate pertinent horticul- a plant will flourish in your zone, consult your tural and meteorological information into the local nursery or garden center staff. map. History of the Hardiness Zone Map Why the New Map was Created in Although the original Hardiness Zone Map 1990 was created in 1960, the current map is the ver- The “Plant Hardiness Zone Map” was pub- sion from 1990. This 1990 version shows in de- lished in 1960 and revised in 1965. Since then, tail the lowest temperatures that can be expect- many changes, new interests, and new respon- ed each year in the United States (and Canada sibilities have emerged in North American and Mexico). These temperatures are referred landscaping. One of the most apparent changes to as “average annual minimum temperatures” was in the weather. We have been losing plants, and are based on the lowest temperatures re- from our landscapes, which apparently survived shows 20 latitude and longitude lines. Areas the 1940’s to the 1960’s. Many of the hardiness above an arbitrary elevation are traditionally zone classifications of plants are no longer con- considered unsuitable for plant cropping and do sidered valid. In North America, the ranges of not bear appropriate zone designations. There are temperature and moisture for the past decade also island zones that, because of elevation differ- were wider than those recorded for the 1940’s ences, are warmer or cooler than the surrounding through he 1960’s. An additional interest was areas and are given a different zone designation in the introduction of new forms of traditional Note that many large urban areas carry a warmer plants that are adapted to a wider range of envi- zone designation than the surrounding country- ronments than the older forms. Finally, horticul- side. The map contains as much detail as possi- tural scientists determined that due to our com- ble, considering the vast amount of data on which mon borders with Canada and Mexico, we share it is based and its size. indigenous plants and they expanded the scope to include the whole of North America. Source: U.S. Department of Agriculture Find your zone here: http://planthardiness.ars. The Development of the 1990 Map usda.gov/phzmweb/interactivemap.aspx The average annual minimum temperature data were analyzed for Mexico, the United States, and Canada. Of 14,500 stations that measured temperature during the period of interest, almost 8,000 could be identified by latitude and longitude and by a valid average annual minimum temperature (i.e., an average based on at least 10 years of data). Data from only the latter stations were used in the map. The data were archived by Servicio Meterologico Nacional (Tucubaya, D.F., Mexico), the National Climatic Data Cen- ter (Asheville, NC), and Environment Canada – Canadian Climate Centre (Downsville, Ontar- io). Temperature data were compiled and maps prepared under contract with the Meteorologi- cal Evaluation Services Co., Inc., 165 Broadway, Amityville, New York 11701. The map is an Albers Equal Area Projection. Standard parallels of 29.5, and 45.5, were used to generate the map of the three countries. The map was computer gener- ated by latitude and longitude. Because of the large area involved, it is not possible to draw one map that is accurate for all of North America. The part representing the United States has the least distortion. The Agricultural Research Service proposes to periodically evaluate weather data and issue updated maps as necessary and appropriate. How to Use the Hardiness Zone Map Zones 2-10 in the map have been subdivided into light- and dark-colored sections. The light color of each zone represents the colder section, the dark color, the warmer section. The map atering Wbasics &tools More than 90% of a plant’s weight is water, so it is vital to replenish what’s lost or used each day. Regular watering is the most important way to maintain healthy plants, particularly under hot sum- mer sun. Watering Established Plants The best way to judge when plants need water is to feel the soil an inch or so under the surface. When it feels cool and damp to the touch, but doesn’t moisten your finger, it’s time to water. If it feels dry, you’ve waited too long, and if it wets or muddies your finger, it’s too soon to water. The basic principle for watering is to fill the plant’s root zone each time you water, then let it dry somewhat before watering again. Each time you water, wet the soil about a foot deep. For average soils, this is about an inch of water. Clay soils might need 2 inches, and sandy soils only half an inch. Use a time-release plant food, such as Osmocote® Plant Food. It will save you time and work and reward you with big, beautiful plants. Surviving a Heat Wave Healthy plants growing sturdily in well-prepared soil can go without water for a time. But when the thermometer hits 90 degrees, or the wind is strong and hot, you may need to water daily. Water cools the plants as well as nourishes them. Leaves can scorch in a couple of hours if they can’t draw up all the water they need to keep cool. Be especially vigilant during heat waves. It also helps to shade the plants in the afternoon, if you can do that without reducing air circulation. Shade further protects them from overheating. Watering Plants in Containers Containers are very simple to hand-water because they have a built- in basin to hold the water in place while it soaks in. To allow this system to work right, when you fill the pot with soil, leave enough exposed pot rim to contain all the water you need to saturate the pot. (The space between the soil and the rim of the pot is called the headspace.) After the first time you water the pot, be sure an ample amount of water drains from the bottom from one filling of the headspace. In the future, just fill the headspace of each container. If the headspace is ample, one filling is adequate. Water your containers once or twice a day during hot, dry weather, every other day during cooler periods, and less often when it rains. Water-retentive potting mixes contain natural coir fibers that absorb water, then release moisture to plants gradually to help take the guesswork out of watering. Watering Tools Hose-End Attachments Several hose-end attachments make hand watering easier. • A water breaker looks like a spray nozzle, but there are so many holes that the water comes out in a gentle rain instead of spraying some distance. Breakers are designed to break the force of the water, so you don’t wash away the soil, without lessening the volume. They work very well with containers or any place you want to flood the soil with water quickly. • A watering wand is a tube that extends the reach of the hose. They are available in different lengths, but about 2 feet is common.

Load more