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MENTELLE NOTES the Newsletter of Cape Mentelle, Margaret River, Australia | ISSN: 2207-6964

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MENTELLE NOTES the Newsletter of Cape Mentelle, Margaret River, Australia | ISSN: 2207-6964 NOVEMBER 2020 MENTELLE NOTES The newsletter of Cape Mentelle, Margaret River, Australia | ISSN: 2207-6964 But gradually Cape Mentelle’s reputation grew and in 1990 David attracted a suitor, the Champagne house Moët Hennessy that would subsequently take Cape Mentelle’s now legendary Cabernet (and the CMV portfolio) to the world. That is one of David’s proudest business achievements. ‘We developed a wine estate that has contributed to Brand Australia, Brand WA and Brand Margaret River, and we did it very successfully.’ Asked about his personal legacy, Hohnen hesitates. ‘I think I built an inclusive culture and empowered people. We stayed humble.’ Few would challenge that, but not every day was a winner. ‘I made mistakes,’ confesses David ‘because I was a softie with self-serving people.’ David Hohnen’s latest passion is his classy roadster Triumph Bonneville T214. But he was a stickler for vineyard management and winemaking. ‘To make landmark wines you have to On His Bike walk the vineyard and be a good observer. You have to have eyes under the ground and It is 50 years since the Hohnen family established Cape Mentelle, smell the soil to understand.’ In his holistic Pic: Sean Blocksidge view any successful winemaker needs to led by David Hohnen for over three decades. be across soil, bugs, minerality and plant These days David Hohnen is happiest campus in California. He journeyed back genetics, for starters. talking to you about his pasture-reared mostly via Taltarni in Victoria’s Pyrenees (Hohnen Such insights may not have been to the fore caramel-coloured pigs or the smoky, succulent arrived in the early 70’s in time for the first in the Nineties but the 1991 – 1993 vintages charcuterie they make at The Farm House, the commercial harvest) at the behest of global are in David’s mind the best of his tenure. Margaret River based farm shop, smokehouse agribusiness entrepreneur, and still Taltarni’s A 50th Anniversary retrospective tasting is and butchery established by ‘Farmer Dave’ proprietor, John Goelet, whom David yet to determine this. in the post-Mentelle era. Their plump porcine attributes as pivotal to inspiring his career. Margaret River’s future won’t rely on the bloodline is primarily Tamworth, with a The return of the prodigal and the outcome, which David feels is assured. splash of Berkshire, Duroc and Landrace. participation of David’s brother Mark in the ‘These days society needs to be entertained. According to David, genetics matter. early Cape Mentelle days are well documented There is Byron, Noosa and Margs. But we It’s likely he might pour a generous glass in Peter Forrestal’s book The Way It Was. have agriculture, tourism and wine. So we’re of Tempranillo with their barbecued chorizo ‘In the beginning it was hard going. And fine, and we can earn a few bucks and repeat sausages, David’s current favourite alternative there is great irony in the fact that it was customers,’ muses the pig farmer. ‘Cape Mentelle is a destination winery and hasn’t veered far from its origins. ‘I didn’t start with a grand vision. It was There is a humble quiet confidence about the head down, arse up and no time to dream.’ estate that I founded, and there are no bells and baubles…’ red variety. But our talk is less about charred Cloudy Bay’s sudden success and recognition It’s just how he likes it. And if the rammed meat, and more about the River’s classic red (1986) that filtered back to Cape Mentelle,’ earth walls could talk they would surely varieties and Cape Mentelle’s foundation. mused David. ‘Plus of course the dual Jimmy endorse the legacy that David Hohnen has Cape Mentelle evolved in the 1970s from Watson trophies for 1982 and 1983 Cabernet. gifted the brand he created. a friendship between David’s father John and We really didn’t have wheels till Cloudy Bay.’ Ed’s Note: Just for the record, Mentelle Notes neighbour, surgeon Tom Cullity (Vasse Felix) ‘I didn’t start with a grand vision. It was originated in 1982 and has been published while David was studying wine at the Fresno head down, arse up and no time to dream.’ almost continuously since. Page 1 - M E N T EL L E NOTES New Releases Red Classic Wine Club Just in time to mark the end of our Most wineries have a wine club. 50th Anniversary year comes the addition At Cape Mentelle we have several! of a new red wine to the Cape Mentelle So you are able to mix ‘n’ match your wine portfolio. In fact it’s really an evolution from preferences and choose a tier that best suits the once Trinders Cabernet Merlot to the your wine needs. Or those of your friends or new Cape Mentelle Shiraz Cabernet 2017 – family if you choose to gift a membership… that classic Aussie varietal blend. This new and it is nearly Christmas! stallion in the Cape Mentelle stable is a bit The newly launched Mentelle Companion of a ground-breaker for the Margaret River club tier offers access to pre-release wines region and evokes the plush spice and savoury and the Back Vintage Cellar, plus invitations notes of shiraz with the elegance and length to special events. The initial purchase of cabernet. tier is $500. All wine orders attract a Originally launched in the US market, 15% member saving and free freight it has already attracted the attention of Australia-wide. Membership offers US wine commentator James Suckling who convenience, exclusivity and savings. rated it 92 POINTS. And WA’s Ray Jordan www.capementelle.com.au/Wine-Club/ commends its striking balance. ‘Seamlessly Mentelle-Companion This issue of Mentelle Notes showcases two constructed with a layer of plush fruit coated Alternative Club options include the tempting new releases, both summer sippers! with a thin veneer of oak…’ That bodes well, Mentelle Explorers and the prestige These wines are available to members of as does his rating – 92 POINTS. Mentelle Collection. the Cape Mentelle Wine Club, online shoppers The winemakers are proud of their new To give you a preview taste, here is the and at the Cellar Door. If you have any progeny…so try it soon! current exclusive Mentelle Collection queries about the selection, please contact Museum Release offer, one carefully the knowledgeable Cape Mentelle staff. CAPE MENTELLE cellar-aged bottle of the following: T: 08 9757 0812 or SHIRAZ CABERNET 2017 E: [email protected] • 2010 Cape Mentelle Wallcliffe Balanced. Expressive. Intense. Sauvignon Blanc Semillon CAPE MENTELLE ROSÉ 2019 ‘Deep garnet with black cherry and 96 POINTS charcuterie aromas, tinges of licorice, Halliday Wine Companion Seductive. Summery. Sippable. cardamom and tobacco. Rich powerful palate An almost fanciful blend of no less than • 2016 Cape Mentelle Wallcliffe with more dark berries, truffles, earthiness nine different red varieties combine to create Sauvignon Blanc Semillon rounded with plush volume and length.’ this delicate rose petal pink, zingy spicy 95 POINTS rosé. Mostly shiraz, the traditional saignée Halliday Wine Companion method combines eight other red grapes, Old and Rare • 2013 Cape Mentelle Chardonnay from zinfandel and pinot noir to savoury 97 POINTS sangiovese and graciano. It’s said good things come in small parcels. Halliday Wine Companion ‘It seduces with strawberry, watermelon Well the Cape Mentelle Back Vintage • 2012 Cape Mentelle Shiraz and rose petal aromas with hints of Collection does too and offers exceptional 97 POINTS honeysuckle, lemon zest and lingering wines from our cool, temperature controlled Ray Jordan, Weekend West minerality. The medium weight palate is long cellars. This rare opportunity affords • 2014 Cape Mentelle Wallcliffe and expressive, creamy too with a hint of Cape Mentelle Wine Club members and Cabernet, Cabernet Franc salinity…’ Just succumb. connoisseurs an exclusive chance to secure 96 POINTS highly collectable wines. CAPE MENTELLE Huon Hooke, huonhooke.com The cellar selection of 10 older vintages SEMILLON 2017 includes Cape Mentelle Wallcliffe Sauvignon • 2014 Cape Mentelle Textural. Arresting. Unique. Blanc Semillon 2010, Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon (cork) Predominantly semillon from the Chapman Chardonnay 2011 rated 97 Points by 98 POINTS Brook vineyard and vinified in a unique Jeremy Oliver; Cape Mentelle Shiraz 2011 Huon Hooke, huonhooke.com 700-litre concrete egg, this wine was aged ‘One of the finest shiraz in the state’ according Club members now have the unsulphured on lees for two years with to Ray Jordan; and four iconic vintages of option of bespoking their selections regular lees stirring. Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010, – your favourites, our treats and ‘Bursts forth with wisteria blossom, lime 2007, 2000 and 1999. more. To do so members are invited leaf and cut hay evolving to a restrained Limited allocations may apply to to log into their accounts and go to the minerally, linear and savoury palate with hints some vintages. To enquire please call ‘Club List’ for the available wines. of cream. Medium weight, rich yet lithe with the Cellar Door. T: 08 9757 0812 www.capementelle.com.au/Wine-Club intriguing peach and toasted pecan notes.’ E: [email protected] or contact [email protected] Page 2 - M E N T EL L E NOTES I remember spending the afternoon on the A Cuppa with Jancis beach before having to pontificate and making the point that cabernet is about so much more Jancis Robinson MW joined Mentelle Notes for a chat and a than fruit.’ cuppa from her Languedoc home… MN: This has surely been a challenging year. How have you and your wine team managed to navigate the hurdles and still report the world’s wine news? JR: ‘I am rather ashamed to report that, much to my surprise, JR.com has proved relatively virus-proof.
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