NOVEMBER 2020 MENTELLE NOTES The newsletter of Cape Mentelle, Margaret River, Australia | ISSN: 2207-6964

But gradually Cape Mentelle’s reputation grew and in 1990 David attracted a suitor, the Champagne house Moët Hennessy that would subsequently take Cape Mentelle’s now legendary Cabernet (and the CMV portfolio) to the world. That is one of David’s proudest business achievements. ‘We developed a wine estate that has contributed to Brand Australia, Brand WA and Brand Margaret River, and we did it very successfully.’ Asked about his personal legacy, Hohnen hesitates. ‘I think I built an inclusive culture and empowered people. We stayed humble.’ Few would challenge that, but not every day was a winner. ‘I made mistakes,’ confesses David ‘because I was a softie with self-serving people.’ David Hohnen’s latest passion is his classy roadster Triumph Bonneville T214. But he was a stickler for vineyard management and winemaking. ‘To make landmark wines you have to On His Bike walk the vineyard and be a good observer. You have to have eyes under the ground and It is 50 years since the Hohnen family established Cape Mentelle, smell the soil to understand.’ In his holistic

Pic: Sean Blocksidge view any successful winemaker needs to led by David Hohnen for over three decades. be across soil, bugs, minerality and plant These days David Hohnen is happiest campus in California. He journeyed back genetics, for starters. talking to you about his pasture-reared mostly via Taltarni in Victoria’s Pyrenees (Hohnen Such insights may not have been to the fore caramel-coloured pigs or the smoky, succulent arrived in the early 70’s in time for the first in the Nineties but the 1991 – 1993 vintages charcuterie they make at The Farm House, the commercial harvest) at the behest of global are in David’s mind the best of his tenure. Margaret River based farm shop, smokehouse agribusiness entrepreneur, and still Taltarni’s A 50th Anniversary retrospective tasting is and butchery established by ‘Farmer Dave’ proprietor, John Goelet, whom David yet to determine this. in the post-Mentelle era. Their plump porcine attributes as pivotal to inspiring his career. Margaret River’s future won’t rely on the bloodline is primarily Tamworth, with a The return of the prodigal and the outcome, which David feels is assured. splash of Berkshire, Duroc and Landrace. participation of David’s brother Mark in the ‘These days society needs to be entertained. According to David, genetics matter. early Cape Mentelle days are well documented There is Byron, Noosa and Margs. But we It’s likely he might pour a generous glass in Peter Forrestal’s book The Way It Was. have agriculture, tourism and wine. So we’re of Tempranillo with their barbecued chorizo ‘In the beginning it was hard going. And fine, and we can earn a few bucks and repeat sausages, David’s current favourite alternative there is great irony in the fact that it was customers,’ muses the pig farmer. ‘Cape Mentelle is a destination winery and hasn’t veered far from its origins. ‘I didn’t start with a grand vision. It was There is a humble quiet confidence about the head down, arse up and no time to dream.’ estate that I founded, and there are no bells and baubles…’ red variety. But our talk is less about charred Cloudy Bay’s sudden success and recognition It’s just how he likes it. And if the rammed meat, and more about the River’s classic red (1986) that filtered back to Cape Mentelle,’ earth walls could talk they would surely varieties and Cape Mentelle’s foundation. mused David. ‘Plus of course the dual Jimmy endorse the legacy that David Hohnen has Cape Mentelle evolved in the 1970s from Watson trophies for 1982 and 1983 Cabernet. gifted the brand he created. a friendship between David’s father John and We really didn’t have wheels till Cloudy Bay.’ Ed’s Note: Just for the record, Mentelle Notes neighbour, surgeon Tom Cullity () ‘I didn’t start with a grand vision. It was originated in 1982 and has been published while David was studying wine at the Fresno head down, arse up and no time to dream.’ almost continuously since.

Page 1 - M E N T EL L E NOTES New Releases Red Classic Wine Club

Just in time to mark the end of our Most wineries have a wine club. 50th Anniversary year comes the addition At Cape Mentelle we have several! of a new red wine to the Cape Mentelle So you are able to mix ‘n’ match your wine portfolio. In fact it’s really an evolution from preferences and choose a tier that best suits the once Trinders Cabernet to the your wine needs. Or those of your friends or new Cape Mentelle Shiraz Cabernet 2017 – family if you choose to gift a membership… that classic Aussie blend. This new and it is nearly Christmas! stallion in the Cape Mentelle stable is a bit The newly launched Mentelle Companion of a ground-breaker for the Margaret River club tier offers access to pre-release wines region and evokes the plush spice and savoury and the Back Vintage Cellar, plus invitations notes of shiraz with the elegance and length to special events. The initial purchase of cabernet. tier is $500. All wine orders attract a Originally launched in the US market, 15% member saving and free freight it has already attracted the attention of Australia-wide. Membership offers US wine commentator James Suckling who convenience, exclusivity and savings. rated it 92 POINTS. And WA’s Ray Jordan www.capementelle.com.au/Wine-Club/ commends its striking balance. ‘Seamlessly Mentelle-Companion This issue of Mentelle Notes showcases two constructed with a layer of plush fruit coated Alternative Club options include the tempting new releases, both summer sippers! with a thin veneer of oak…’ That bodes well, Mentelle Explorers and the prestige These wines are available to members of as does his rating – 92 POINTS. Mentelle Collection. the Cape Mentelle Wine Club, online shoppers The winemakers are proud of their new To give you a preview taste, here is the and at the Cellar Door. If you have any progeny…so try it soon! current exclusive Mentelle Collection queries about the selection, please contact Museum Release offer, one carefully the knowledgeable Cape Mentelle staff. CAPE MENTELLE cellar-aged bottle of the following: T: 08 9757 0812 or SHIRAZ CABERNET 2017 E: [email protected] • 2010 Cape Mentelle Wallcliffe Balanced. Expressive. Intense. Semillon CAPE MENTELLE ROSÉ 2019 ‘Deep garnet with black cherry and 96 POINTS charcuterie aromas, tinges of licorice, Halliday Wine Companion Seductive. Summery. Sippable. cardamom and tobacco. Rich powerful palate An almost fanciful blend of no less than • 2016 Cape Mentelle Wallcliffe with more dark berries, truffles, earthiness nine different red varieties combine to create Sauvignon Blanc Semillon rounded with plush volume and length.’ this delicate rose petal pink, zingy spicy 95 POINTS rosé. Mostly shiraz, the traditional saignée Halliday Wine Companion method combines eight other red grapes, Old and Rare • 2013 Cape Mentelle from zinfandel and to savoury 97 POINTS sangiovese and graciano. It’s said good things come in small parcels. Halliday Wine Companion ‘It seduces with strawberry, watermelon Well the Cape Mentelle Back Vintage • 2012 Cape Mentelle Shiraz and rose petal aromas with hints of Collection does too and offers exceptional 97 POINTS honeysuckle, lemon zest and lingering wines from our cool, temperature controlled Ray Jordan, Weekend West minerality. The medium weight palate is long cellars. This rare opportunity affords • 2014 Cape Mentelle Wallcliffe and expressive, creamy too with a hint of Cape Mentelle Wine Club members and Cabernet, Cabernet Franc salinity…’ Just succumb. connoisseurs an exclusive chance to secure 96 POINTS highly collectable wines. CAPE MENTELLE Huon Hooke, huonhooke.com The cellar selection of 10 older vintages SEMILLON 2017 includes Cape Mentelle Wallcliffe Sauvignon • 2014 Cape Mentelle Textural. Arresting. Unique. Blanc Semillon 2010, Cape Mentelle (cork) Predominantly semillon from the Chapman Chardonnay 2011 rated 97 Points by 98 POINTS Brook vineyard and vinified in a unique Jeremy Oliver; Cape Mentelle Shiraz 2011 Huon Hooke, huonhooke.com 700-litre concrete egg, this wine was aged ‘One of the finest shiraz in the state’ according Club members now have the unsulphured on lees for two years with to Ray Jordan; and four iconic vintages of option of bespoking their selections regular lees stirring. Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010, – your favourites, our treats and ‘Bursts forth with wisteria blossom, lime 2007, 2000 and 1999. more. To do so members are invited leaf and cut hay evolving to a restrained Limited allocations may apply to to log into their accounts and go to the minerally, linear and savoury palate with hints some vintages. To enquire please call ‘Club List’ for the available wines. of cream. Medium weight, rich yet lithe with the Cellar Door. T: 08 9757 0812 www.capementelle.com.au/Wine-Club intriguing peach and toasted pecan notes.’ E: [email protected] or contact [email protected]

Page 2 - M E N T EL L E NOTES I remember spending the afternoon on the A Cuppa with Jancis beach before having to pontificate and making the point that cabernet is about so much more Jancis Robinson MW joined Mentelle Notes for a chat and a than fruit.’ cuppa from her Languedoc home… MN: This has surely been a challenging year. How have you and your wine team managed to navigate the hurdles and still report the world’s wine news? JR: ‘I am rather ashamed to report that, much to my surprise, JR.com has proved relatively virus-proof. All of the 15 team members have always worked from home anyway. And during lockdown much of life has been lived online so we saw a distinct increase in site traffic, not least because we worked very hard to produce a massive international list of wine retailers who would deliver to self isolators, and also offered three months’ free membership to our informative Purple Pages, to those in the beleaguered Pic (Left): Roel Loopers, (Right): Elizabeth Clancy Pic (Left): Roel Loopers, hospitality industry.’ Serious cab chat, 1988 Cape Mentelle Cab Tasting – David Hohnen and Jancis – then and now. MN: What is your preferred red grape variety? In other circumstances it’s quite possible MN: What in your world view primarily JR: ‘It’s very wimpy not to make up my mind that the global wine doyenne Jancis Robinson distinguishes the Margaret River region from but honestly I don’t have favourites in wine MW might have journeyed to Margaret other southern hemisphere wine producing (though I wave the flag for underdogs such River to help celebrate Cape Mentelle’s countries (South Africa, NZ, Chile etc)? as – which I do know is not red). 50th Anniversary. JR: ‘Am I allowed to say the scenery?! It’s I just love the variety and being able to Jancis was the special guest at the 1988 such a great region for tourism. Some of the choose something different every evening.’ Cabernet Tasting (and again in 2017) and others have stunning scenery but some pretty MN: Australian winemakers are increasingly originally wrote in Mentelle Notes: crippling social problems. And I love the fact exploring the suitability of numerous ‘What cabernet sauvignon has however, that Margaret River produces equally good ‘alternative varieties’. Which alternative arguably more than any other grape variety, reds and whites.’ varieties do you think will do well here? is the ability to produce wines that have the MN: Are you an advocate of blind tasting? Or should we stick to the classics? potential not just to last but to evolve into JR: ‘Professionally when tasting a group of JR: ‘Definitely not stick to the classics something much more subtle and richly similar wines such as young Bordeaux, it’s to the exclusion of all else – though I’m complicated…’ wonderful to judge how they taste without a strong proponent of fine Australian The intervening three-plus decades have the distraction of labels and reputations. cabernet and don’t think it quite gets its due. certainly delivered evolution for us all, a perfect excuse to touch base for a wide-ranging chat with the world’s most ‘I’m a strong proponent of fine Australian influential wine commentator. cabernet and don’t think it quite gets its due.’

But the Bordeaux producers have now I’m glad grenache is getting its day in the sun, MN: November marks the 20th Anniversary forbidden it for the en primeur tastings! and of course there’s a host of other Iberian of your website www.jancisrobinson.com As for tasting completely blind as a party and Italian varieties that should flourish.’ How has our appetite for wine knowledge trick, you can waste a heck of a lot of good changed in the past two decades? MN: What are you sipping while chatting to wine while trying to make up your mind… JR: ‘I think wine consumers have become Mentelle Notes? When I started out everyone expected me much more sceptical and knowledgeable – JR: A mug of tea in the Languedoc waiting to get it wrong and only remembered when which is great. Scores no longer dominate to be interviewed by Elaine Chukan Brown, I got it right. Now, alas, it’s the other way consumer thought even if merchants still rely one of our team members for her online series round. I can’t win!’ on them too much for their sales pitches. Between the Wines. I also like the fact that wine drinkers can MN: What is your earliest memory of a and do choose from a much wider range of Cape Mentelle wine? The indefatigable Jancis Robinson MW, OBE accepted good and great wines – not just the JR: ‘I’m sure it’s not the first CM wine I had is the wine columnist for the Financial Times old European classics but a wealth of different but I vividly remember being invited by David and founder of JancisRobinson.com styles, provenances and grape varieties.’ Hohnen to the Cabernet Tasting in 1988. Hopefully she will get back to Margs soon.

Page 3 - M E N T EL L E NOTES Sky High Vintage Report 2020

Given all the turmoil of the year it is pleasing intensity and captivating lingering aromatics. to be able to report that Vintage 2020 was The standout white variety is chardonnay, a boomer in Margaret River. The salient destined according to winemaker Ben Cane, facts are that it was the warmest vintage in to be a magical wine. over seven years (33 days over 30˚C), and Among the reds both cabernet and shiraz considerably drier than average – the rain impress. The shiraz for its spicy pepperiness gauge was 11% down on preferred levels. and depth of fruit, while the cabernet The effect of these two factors was predictable sauvignon evokes compact seamless tannins, – lower yields for the white varieties and just dark berries and a complementary mocha on average for the reds, leading to a shorter, palate. Start salivating now… more hectic harvest period – and peerless Ben rates the year 8 - 9 (out of 10) that quality grapes. equates to a classic year for Margaret River. On the upside, all varieties achieved So do be sure to look out for these beguiling impeccable ripeness and incredible fruit beauties when they make their debut. Cape Mentelle’s Big Screen

Keeping an eye on the vineyards with Warm summer nights, picnic rugs and the big Cape Mentelle’s all-seeing drone. screen…What better way to unwind than al fresco movies under the stars? Movies at Fifty years ago when Cape Mentelle was Cape Mentelle opens again on 11 December and established, vineyard management was a is guaranteed to divert and delight. Enjoy the matter of walking the rows with eyes wide old faves, thrillers and arthouse selections with open, looking for growth and nutrient factors, friends – and glasses of your favourite CMV and any pests and disease. Then the vineyard wines! More fun than Netflix on the sofa. crew would descend to rectify trouble spots. Details: www.capementelle.com.au/Events We still walk the rows, but these days some of the viticultural observations, notably canopy growth and vine health, are undertaken by a drone. The aerial surveillance Eugene Tan in focus at Cape Mentelle. overseen by Aerovines, measures vegetative Wide Horizons density (NDVI). This vegetative index measures chlorophyll levels in the leaves, an indicator of vine health. Simply put, if a vine is dehydrated or diseased it absorbs more infrared light and this is detectable in the Pic: Aquabumps images recorded by the drone. Such precision viticulture is used to tailor bespoke selections in the vineyard. ‘So instead of picking whole rows or blocks of our cabernet, we actually isolate sub- selections. They might get pruned or shoot- thinned differently and we can target compost applications on weaker vigour sections.’ Viticulturist David Moulton likes his new vineyard inspector. ‘It will never completely replace the ability of the viticulture and winemaking team to appraise the vines and taste the fruit, but the drone images tell us where to look. Cape Mentelle’s 50th Anniversary continues photographer Eugene Tan of Aquabumps to It is a snapshot of the vineyard at a key point, on the east coast this month at Bondi Beach capture unique and memorable moments that not altered by opinion or time and delivers – a coast-to-coast inter-active photographic will be shared at the Explore Your Horizon a high level of accuracy to assist both vine celebration and tasting to celebrate the pop-up exhibition, 28-29 November at the management and picking decisions.’ Mentelle milestone with a marine theme. North Bondi Surf Club (Level 2). To join us Almost as good as frequent flyer points… Cape Mentelle has collaborated with please click here or go to eventbrite.com.au

Page 4 - M E N T EL L E NOTES Penny’s Thoughts Halliday’s ‘I spent a great deal of time in winery Highlights offices and one of my favourite tasks was the stocktake when I would spend days in cellars, If ever there was a go-to reference for and inevitably they finished with a glass…’ Australian wines, it’s the annual Halliday A decade ago Penny sought an overseas Wine Companion. The recently published experience and accepted a position in 2021 Edition again rates Cape Mentelle New Zealand at Cloudy Bay becoming the 5 Red Stars (Outstanding) and showcases company’s Operations Controller. three wines rated over 95 Points. ‘The past decade at Cloudy Bay has So to celebrate we have created the instilled significant skills and I take pride in HALLIDAY WINE COMPANION SIX-PACK my holistic view and role as a guardian of – two bottles of each wine listed below: the heritage of Cape Mentelle in its 50th Meet Cape Mentelle Estate Director. year. We are all here to nurture that legacy Penny Dickeson now helms and the land for future generations. ‘That’s what the Maori call Kaitiakitanga the company and shares her and we can learn to share their aspirations grand plans. to care for our land.’ Penny is moving to Margaret River from Penny may have been born in the nation’s Marlborough with her husband Graham and capital but is a proud Adelaide girl. Although two young boys who are already aspirant the world of wine didn’t impinge on her members of the local Margs Nippers Club. formative years, by her 18th birthday Surfing classes are not far off. friends had noticed an evolving passion and Her favourite wine variety is chardonnay collaborated to give her a cherished wine rack. and there is already a project afoot to create CAPE MENTELLE While studying commerce and management an iconic Cape Mentelle Chardonnay, crafted at Adelaide University, Penny’s wine interests from ‘magic parcels’ carefully selected from CHARDONNAY 2017 evolved, especially through weekend sorties mature vineyards. ‘Takes a milli-second for its flavour mass to into South Australia’s icon regions – the ‘If you can bottle magic, why wouldn’t reach every corner of the mouth…’ Barossa, Adelaide Hills, Clare, McLaren Vale you?’ poses Penny. Indeed. 97 POINTS and Coonawarra. The advent of the next 50 years heralds Perfect backgrounding for a post at exciting evolution and innovation at Cape CAPE MENTELLE TWO Deloitte in Adelaide where her primary audit Mentelle, kicked off by the passionate new VINEYARDS SHIRAZ 2016 client was a large French wine and spirits Estate Director. And you can be sure the ‘A powerful layered shiraz of great length and producer (Hint: not LVMH). stocktakes will be accurate. balance.’ 97 POINTS

CAPE MENTELLE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016 Cabernet Parade ‘Cape Mentelle has some very expensive but very effective grape sorting equipment and Not even a global pandemic can stop the that may be part of the reason for the purity Cape Mentelle International Cabernet Tasting, and singularity of this beautiful cabernet.’ especially in our big anniversary year. 98 POINTS While the guests will necessarily be local, the wines from the 2017 vintage will be ORDER HERE or from the Cellar Door. representative of the world’s best cabernets. For the 38th Cabernet Tasting wines have been selected from Tuscany, South Africa, Shop Online Napa Valley, Chile, Bordeaux, and of course, The very first 1982 Cape Mentelle Cabernet the one and only, Margaret River. The Cape Mentelle Online Wine Shop is Tasting, at the winery. Guests at this year’s event will enjoy a just a click away for all your favourite wine post-tasting long lunch prepared by ‘The variety was cabernet sauvignon, the year orders. All purchases of 12 bottles or more renowned WA chef Kate Lamont. On the 1982. I can’t be sure, but I think I was at the receive a 10% SAVING and FREE FREIGHT menu – Exmouth prawns, Shark Bay whiting, first event, and have been to several over the in Australia. And you can also send wine to Pemberton marron and for the cabernets – ensuing years. Cape Mentelle got the formula Singapore or Hong Kong at attractive freight succulent duck confit, followed by cheese, and right from the word go and, sensibly, hasn’t rates. Please contact us: birthday cake. A fitting celebration indeed! tinkered with it since.’ JAMES HALLIDAY www.capementelle.com.au/Wines/Buy-Wine

Page 5 - M E N T EL L E NOTES Travel Alert Latest Drops

Staying positive is important, especially at the moment when all our travel plans are CAPE MENTELLE SAUVIGNON hampered and restricted to closer-to-home BLANC SEMILLON 2019 escapades. But that doesn’t have to inhibit ‘This has a fresh, lemon and lime nose with any budding Mentelle Ambassadors. You may a herbal edge, too. The palate has some recall that in the past Mentelle Notes ran an attractive peaches and lemons, as well as a encompassing global Mentelle Ambassador smooth, fresh, gently herb-tinged finish.’ campaign – well, it has been revived! Field Games – Mentals vs Loonies 1986. 92 POINTS, JAMES SUCKLING.COM Next time you are in a remote or exciting location, whether it be Darwin or Devon, CAPE MENTELLE SHIRAZ 2017 Kakadu or Kyoto, be sure to take (or buy) a Golden Daze ‘Plums and sweet tobacco…It shows a vivid bottle of Cape Mentelle and keep your eyes MN’s chat with founder David Hohnen and bright palate with very fine tannins and a peeled for a unique photo opportunity – of sparked some funny memories and the one crisp long finish.’ you or someone you love with your favourite about the annual Golden Chook softball CMV bottle. Send that photo (high resolution 92 POINTS, JAMES SUCKLING.COM challenge against the Loonies crew at please) to [email protected] neighbouring . Back then The winning image will be published in CAPE MENTELLE proprietor Dennis Horgan had recruited Mentelle Notes and social media and the American personal motivator Lou Earl Tice, TWO VINEYARDS SHIRAZ 2016 winner will receive a mixed case of Cape since deceased, to inspire his winery team. ‘A deluxe Cape Mentelle wine…Seriously Mentelle’s finest. The Mentals decided to rev the troops with structured with ample fine-grained tannins.’ And now a drum roll for Paula and Andy ‘Blue Twice’ who roared onto the pitch driven 95 POINTS, Huon Hooke Toshack from Perth, the winning Mentelle by viticulturist and tactician Brenton Air in a GOURMET TRAVELLER WINE Ambassadors for 2020 who trekked to a show-stopper canary yellow Ford Compass. beach villa at Monkey Mia on the WA north- ‘Rich, savoury, complex and appealing He did a sharp 360-handbrake turn and slid west coast and chilled with Cape Mentelle bouquet, which combines black fruits and sideways on slippery turf into the Leeuwin Chardonnay after dark. Congratulations! spices, touches of dried herbs and on the shrubbery, taking the entire irrigation system palate, fruit-sweet nuances. Hints of with him. Blue’s bottle of bourbon did little vanilla, chocolate and ironstone-mineral to dull the pain of that or of watching the traces. Ample tannins balance the generous Mental’s Trooper Hooper whacking countless flavour...Full-bodied and savoury: a totally home runs into the trees. In his acceptance serious shiraz. The finish is long and resonant.’ speech captain coach Hohnen said. ‘Never in the field of human motivation, or indeed any 95 POINTS, Huon Hooke, THE REAL REVIEW other field, has so much been dug up by one man.’ Those were the days. CAPE MENTELLE CHARDONNAY 2017 'Creamy, crushed cashews, almond meal, Wine Peeps yellow peach and a salty, pithy acid line. Refreshing and bright, but also round and Cape Mentelle’s Cellar Door is ‘back to rich. Power and drive from the Gin Gin fruit. Oceans away for Cape Mentelle Chardonnay. normal’ and looks forward to welcoming Good length. Cooler vintage equals tighter, wine explorers wending their way to more refined, leaner… this has a more southwest WA. linear approach.’ Musts The Behind the Scenes tours have restarted and offer our guests a very 18.3/20 POINTS, ERIN LARKIN.COM.AU Looking towards a new year… personal and enjoyable experience. The tour [90 minutes] includes a guided MOVIES @ CAPE MENTELLE CAPE MENTELLE vineyard walk and private tasting of ZINFANDEL 2017 11 DECEMBER 2020 – 13 MARCH 2021 six current release Cape Mentelle wines, www.capementelle.com.au/Events/Movies-at- paired with local produce. Bookings ‘Got the Gold ribbon. A bright, youthful Cape-Mentelle are essential. wine…an array of spices meld happily with Another Cellar Door diversion may quality toasty oak, mulberries and plums. GOOD FOOD & WINE SHOW be a game of petanque in the winery’s There's nothing shy about it, concentrated and 2021 native gardens…What better way to ripe, yet balanced and demanding the next sip. SYDNEY – 25 JUNE 2021 while away an al fresco afternoon! Red raisins, cinnamon and those dark plums PERTH – 30 JULY 2021 www.capementelle.com.au/Cellar-Door/ return. A delicious wine...’ www.goodfoodshow.com.au Tours-and-Tastings 95 POINTS, THE REAL REVIEW

331 Wallcliffe Road T +618 9757 0888 CapeMentelle E S Margaret River E [email protected] CapeMentelle Page 6 - M E N T EL L NOTE Western Australia W www.capementelle.com.au