Ligurian Hills – 6 Nights Across the Apennines to the Sea
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Telephone: +44 (0) 1722 322 652 Email: [email protected] Ligurian Hills – 6 nights Across the Apennines to the sea https://www.onfootholidays.co.uk/routes/ligurian-hills/ligurian-hills-6-nights/ Route Summary At a glance 6 nights, (5 walking days, missing walk from Montalto Pavese to Fortunago) and only one night at the end by the sea in Camogli. How much walking? Full days: 15-24km per day, 4½-7 hrs walking Using shortening options: 10-17km per day, 2¼-5 hrs (using taxis) Max. Grade: page 1/9 Following the “Via del Sale” (Salt Road) from “Little Tuscany” or Oltrepo Pavese, this route travels across the foothills of the majestic Apennine chain in its westward extension from Pisa. This is bucolic Italy, fiercely proud of local traditions and in particular local food and wine. The first two days walking in this region is through vineyards and woods, to get you in trim for the next four days of high ridge walking, scene of Hannibal’s march on Rome in 218 BC. From the historic valley town of Varzi on Night 3, you will climb swiftly above the 1000m mark and will stay there for much of the next four days, before tumbling down to the sea at the picturesque fishing port/resort of Camogli, about 30km west of the Cinque Terre and, we think, far more authentic and Italian. This is a route for the seasoned walker – the views are tremendous but the days are quite long, unless you take our shortening options. Shorter options are available, but we recommend spending a night at the start in Pavia to take in the historic city with its ancient university, or the lovely monastery at Certosa di Pavia). Route Highlights ● The picturesque countryside of the Oltrepo Pavese – “Little Tuscany” ● Walk in the footsteps of Hannibal and Frank Sinatra’s mother ● Local wines and sophisticated home cooking ● Varzi and its historic centre ● Crossing the Ligurian Apennines ● Your first glimpse of the blue Mediterranean ● The harbour and beach at Camogli We Recommend An extra day at the start to visit Pavia, and extra nights at the end to explore the Ligurian coast and the Cinque Terre. Grading Full days: 15-24km per day, 4½-7 hrs walking Using shortening options: 10-17km per day, 2¼-5 hrs (using taxis) page 2/9 Walking on paths and tracks, several steep sections after leaving Varzi. Paths are well marked. Highest point on route: 1,650m. Medium-hard: Average cumulative uphill stretches (CUSs) 634m (425m - 1210m) per day. Medium: CUSs 422m (250m - 900m) using shortening options on Days 2-6 GPX file available for handheld GPS or smartphone App for complete route. Important note: Times given for each day are walking times for an “average” walker and exclude stops. “CUSs” stands for “Cumulative Uphill Stretches” and measures the aggregated ascents in each day, expressed in metres of climb. See “Walk Grading” for more information. When to go The best months to walk: May, June, September Other possible months: April, July, August, October This is a route that is best walked after the snow has melted from the hills (still a possibility in May). May and June are lovely for flowers but June can start to be a little hot though height will ameliorate excessive temperatures. September can be busy, but October should be glorious, though with the risk of rain. Please note: date ranges shown are for a 'normal' year. While Covid-19 restrictions remain, please contact us to discuss your plans and availability. Itinerary Day 1 - Montalto Pavese to Varzi Following a lift with your luggage to the 'Cross on the col', the walk starts on a track through beech woods along the ridge top of M. Bruno to the castle at Oramala, before descending to the old town of Varzi in the valley. Your next day’s walking rears up ahead of you! (Medium-hard: 4¾ hrs, 19km, CUSs 650m) Alternatives: Only to miss the walk completely by hitching a lift with the luggage (ask your host). Day 2 - Varzi to Capanne di Cosola Start with a sustained climb up to Castellaro (you can ride with the luggage along this section if you prefer), then up the valley of the Fosso. Climbing steeply up through beech woods, you reach the main ridge just before Monte Bogleglio. Then – a long and sometimes dramatic ridge walk, with a possible bagging of Monte Chiappo at the end before your next night’s excellent meal at the mountain lodge at Capanne di Cosola. (Hard: 7 hrs, 21 km, CUSs 1210m). Alternative: ride with the luggage to Castellaro, saving 2 hrs and 350m of ascent. Day 3 - Capanne di Cosola to Due Ponti This is the majestic day. 14 km of high walking, culminating in the meadows which surround Monte Cavalla and views for ever. From here you will be following the old road down (now abandoned except for foresters and walkers) for 6 km to the valley floor, to your comfortable accommodation at the hamlet of Due Ponti. ( Medium-hard: 6¾ hrs, 23km, CUSs 550m) Alternative - two easier shortening options (8½ km and 19½km), or ride all the way with the luggage. page 3/9 page 4/9 Day 4 - Buffalora to Calcinara This gorgeous walk seeks to do the impossible. After a short transfer, climb (gently) up to Monte Lavagnola; the climbing is then all but done and the rest of the walk consists of high contouring – maintaining the same level but with the most stupendous views of a much more cultured landscape than the day before – wooded valleys, small farms and villages. And you even get not one, but two, potential pit stops at good bar-restaurants. Your final walk into Calcinara will be rewarded by great friendliness, good food and drink – and almost no English! (Medium: 6 hrs, 19 km, 490m CUSs). Alternatives: Shorten to 2½ hrs or 4 hrs (with lifts). Day 5 - Calcinara to Camogli A wonderful final day - you continue along the ridge eastwards, then southwards to the coast at Camogli. Again the views will never let you down, and the final mountain spur before the end, with the sea on each side, will be much photographed. Your hotels in Camogli are all welcoming, whatever grade you have opted for. ( Medium-hard: 5 hrs, 15 km, 430m CUSs). Alternatives: None except to ask Fausto’s uncle for a lift with the luggage. Day 6 - Free day in Camogli Do a bit of free coastal walking to San Fruttuoso's idyllic car-free bay, or to Portofino, take a trip on the coastal ferry, take the train to the Cinque Terre (1½ hrs) for some station-to-station walking - or just relax! Travel Information ARRIVING BY AIR The best airports are Genoa, Milan (Linate, Malpensa and Bergamo), and Pisa. Flights also possible via Turin. Land By: 16:00 (Pisa 14:30 and Milan by 15:00 so as not to miss supper) for public transport connections to Voghera. Return flight earliest: 12:00 (Genoa), 13:00 (Pisa), 15:00 (Milan airports) for train connections from Camogli (see transfer information below). Land by/earliest return times not applicable if using pre-booked taxi. Flight information can change rapidly and not all flights run daily. Please do check directly with the airlines’ websites or Skyscanner (see below) before finalising any booking with us. Do not book your flights until we have confirmed that we have provisionally reserved accommodation for you. For up-to-date schedules and flights from all airports check Skyscanner. See “getting to the start of the walk” below for transfer information. ARRIVING BY TRAIN Nearest railway stations: page 5/9 Start: Voghera Finish: Camogli Sample journeys by rail: TGV from Paris to Gare de Lyon to Marseille-St-Charles, and a Thello train onwards to Voghera. Alternatively go via Paris to Zurich HB and Milan Centrale – a quicker route but with one more change. ~10 hours Coming back, consider travelling from Camogli to Paris via either Genoa and Turin or taking a longer route via Milan and Basel. Another choice might be to get to Milan Centrale for the Thello sleeper train to Paris. We suggest thetrainline.com for times, ticket booking and other information. ARRIVING BY CAR Your car is best left with our hosts at Cella di Montalto (private parking) or Fortunago (quiet country road outside house). Parking in Varzi also possible (public car park, pay locally tbc). Returning, train to Voghera then taxi (pay locally, see “Prices”). Getting to the start of the walk The first accommodation is normally in Montalto Pavese, though the 5-night version starts in Varzi. The last hotel is in Camogli. Transfer times and methods are suggested for the three Milan airports, Genoa and Pisa. For train arrival transfers see below. Outwards: Bus/Train then either short taxi (Mornico Losana) or bus or taxi (Varzi) – Milan airports or Genoa 2½ hrs, Pisa 4 hrs, OR pre-bookable taxi transfer from airport to first hotel Return: Train then Airport bus – Genoa airport 2 hrs, Milan airports 5 hours, Pisa airport 3 hrs Transfers from train stations: Outwards: From Voghera station pre-bookable taxi to Montalto Pavese, public bus or pre-bookable taxi to Varzi Return: Camogli station is within walking distance from most hotels For pre-bookable taxi costs, see “Prices” Full transfer advice, including timetables, is provided in your Walkers’ Pack. Contact us if you would like additional pre-booking information. page 6/9 Where You'll Stay A wonderful range of local accommodation, including the highly stylish, the earnestly mountain and the friendly basic.