DATELINE: informative Dateline from his recent winter, the snowpack in the mountains travels to southern Montana, where was about two times the normal amount. Bighorn River he managed to fish a couple different Then came the heat of summer and, you The Two-for-One notable rivers, find a new favorite fly guessed it, the high-water runoff lasted shop, and take in all of the beauty and through mid-July. Oh well, you have to Montana Special sights that only Big Sky Country can accept nature on its terms, not yours. offer. We arrived late Saturday night and t had been too long since I last booked into a very nice hotel. Sunday we visited my old home state of toured the city and also stopped to take IMontana, the birthplace of my two a look at the first home we had after we children. So, when my wife and I got married. I got out my DSLR camera received an invitation to visit from an and hoped the new residents didn’t see old friend in Billings, we jumped at the me in my rental car snapping photos of chance. I think it was in his book Life’s their house with my telephoto lens. Little Instruction Book that H. Jackson Then came the fun part; we visited Brown Jr. said, “Remember that the most East Rosebud Fly & Tackle fly shop valuable antiques are dear old friends.” to get some “blue flies.” I say that I asked for a date late enough in the because I have never seen a shop with summer to avoid the high muddy water flies of so many different shades of Editor Note: Subscriber Jim Aylsworth often found in early June. But due to an blue. I am not an entomologist, but I do is back with another entertaining and extremely heavy snowfall the previous study entomology and can safely say there are not many insects that live on rivers and have bright blue bodies. Yet, SUPPORT OUR CORPORATE SPONSORS sure enough, they work like magic on rivers like the East Rosebud. Another reason I love this fly shop is the owner. Richard Romersa is a devoted fan of the famous heavy metal band AC/ DC. Of the hundreds of rock and roll concerts I have attended, AC/DC’s were IN THIS ISSUE by far my favorite. They really rock! Montana Michigan So the entire store has everything a fly For Those about to Fish, Holy Water on would want, but it also has We Salute You the Au Sable an AC/DC look about it, including their Pages 1–3 Pages 7–8 logo, and various images of AC/DC Editor’s Column Hawaii front man Angus Young holding a giant Sometimes, Paradise A Few Reasons to rainbow trout. I was so impressed that I Just Isn’t Try the Aloha State went back two days later to make sure I Page 4 Pages 9–10 could meet the owner, who, I since have Cameroon Bahamas learned, always takes Sunday off to go Is Africa the Next A New Family-Friendly . Frontier? Bonefish Destination Pages 5–6 Pages 11–12 As always, I did extensive research on the water I was about to fish in THE REPORT

. I chose the Bighorn At last count, there were over 5,500 River, that famous tailwater that runs trout per mile, about 70 percent brown behind the 525-foot-high Yellowtail trout and 30 percent rainbows. Long ago Dam, which holds the 71-mile-long they tried to stock cutthroat trout in the at bay. Bighorn Lake is in river, but they did not survive—meaning a breathtaking canyon now designated that all the trout here are wild. The Bighorn Canyon National Recreation average brown trout we caught was 14 THE ANGLING REPORT Area, which makes it a unit of the US inches and the average rainbow trout was GROUP PUBLISHER National Park System. When launching 16 inches. I did land one fat rainbow that John D. Lunn the boat just downriver from the Afterbay stretched to just over twenty inches. 512-470-7447 Dam, I could hear pheasant roosters My second cast on the water ended EDITOR cackle from the bluffs above. After in a nice, hard strike and splashy netting Seth Fields floating less than a mile I saw a black of a beautiful brown trout. The next bear scurry quickly to the shore to hide 20-minute stretch was quiet, not a strike COPY EDITOR Gary J. Hamel back in the bushes on the bank. in our boat nor in any of the other boats The Bighorn River flows through near us. All of the fishing guides here LAYOUT & PRODUCTION an open and isolated landscape on the seem to know and respect each other. Ben F. Badger Jr. western edge of the high plains. There They all were commenting on how it ILLUSTRATIONS are few trees except along the riverbanks. was unusually quiet fish-wise. Then all Ed Anderson This river is in a valley that runs through hell broke loose. First, my fishing buddy a meadow of rolling hills covered with caught one, then I did, and that happened ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER grass, mixed in with some brush and about every five to ten minutes for the Michael Floyd trees. The trees along the river are mostly next seven hours! There were more than 706-823-3739 / [email protected] willows and cottonwood trees, and the five times when we doubled up. EDITOR EMERITUS and FOUNDER grass is mostly alfalfa. Although the Two more tricks this old dog learned Don Causey mountains are what is on this trip were about how to fish deep. known for, the grasslands section has its There was no surface activity despite a Subscription Inquiries: (Orders, address changes, problems) own particular beauty. caddis hatch, so we used a very small 800-283-9471 One of my other fishing buddies balloon line indicator, with a pink sow www.theanglingreport.com from Billings affectionately calls this bug or scud, followed by a very small Email: [email protected] river “The Horn.” It flows north 461 caddis pupa bead head nymph. This is miles from the Range in the first time I had seen a strike indicator

Wyoming through Bighorn Canyon, of a miniature balloon. And then came A Publication of MCC Magazines, LLC a division of Morris Communications Company, eventually emptying into the mighty something I had not seen since my LLC 735 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901 in central Montana. pinewood derby days—tungsten putty to Because of the high snowpack, the add weight. In a fast river it quickly gets Donna Kessler, President lake was full, thus the flow of water two the fly down to the bottom, where the big Patty Tiberg, Vice President weeks prior to my visit was at 14,000 fish live. Scott Ferguson, Director of Circulation CFS. Keep in mind that normal flows Our guide from Bighorn Angler Donald Horton, Director of Manufacturing on The Horn are between 5,000 and in Fort Smith, Montana, was Bryen Karen Fralick, Director of Publishing Services 6,000 CFS. It had dropped all the way Venema, who loved this area more Morris Communications Company, LLC down to 8,500 when I floated it and was than the mountains he grew up in near William S. Morris III, Chairman still dropping while we floated it that Bozeman, Montana. I commented how William S. Morris IV, President & CEO ©2018 by MCC Magazines, LLC. All rights reserved. The Monday, July 9. much I enjoyed seeing the rim rocks and Angling Report (ISSN 01045-3539) is published monthly by MCC Magazines, LLC, 735 Broad Street, Augusta, GA 30901. You are never alone on the Bighorn valleys that make the 90-mile drive from Subscriptions are $49 for one year, $87 for two years. Canada and Mexico add $20 per year (U.S. funds only). Outside North River. First there was an inspection Billings to Fort Smith so beautiful. America add $40 per year (U.S. funds only). Periodicals postage paid at Augusta, GA and additional mailing offices. by the US Park Service employees As a professional guide for about POSTMASTER: Send address corrections to The Angling looking for an invasive species of foreign six years, he said he had witnessed the Report, PO Box 433237, Palm Coast, FL 32143-9616. Contributions in the form of manuscripts or photographs will mussels on the boat in order to prevent famous two-for-one Montana special be gladly considered for publication. A self-addressed, stamped envelope of the proper size must accompany each submission. them from getting into this water. Then, only a couple times in his career. Well Please write for editorial guidelines if submitting for the first time, and enclose a SASE; this is very important. We cannot as we approached the ramp parking lot I had never seen or even heard of it, but guarantee against damage or loss of materials submitted, but a little after 8 a.m., I counted about 20 my fishing buddy did it. we take great care in handling all submissions. Address all correspondence to The Angling Report, P.O. Box trucks and trailers of other fishermen The two-for-one Montana special 1207, Augusta, GA 30903-1207. For subscription inquiries or if you do not wish to have your name provided to qualified who were already floating the beautiful is when someone catches two fish at the users of our mailing list, call 1-800-283-9471. The Angling Report may not be photocopied or otherwise reproduced river. same time on the same line while using without express written permission from the publisher.

February 2019 -2- Volume 32, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT

a tandem rig. I was blown away. One heavy caddis hatches. East Rosebud Creek. Even though hit his San Juan worm below his strike On Tuesday, after visiting with it was running high, the water was indicator and the other hit the dropper fly the owner of the fly shop in Billings, I clear, so I used a bright blue bead head of a caddis nymph below it. Too funny. drove 70 miles to Roscoe, Montana, to nymph below a Thingamabobber strike Bryen was spending most of his fish the East Rosebud Creek near my indicator. I caught four fish in the first time giving us instruction—until he friend’s cabin. The East Rosebud Creek hour, all at the same hole about 300 found out I write stories for fly-fishing was just designated as a Wild and Scenic yards below my friend’s cabin. I also saw magazines. Then the conversation River by President Trump on August 2, 11 wild turkeys wandering the high grass changed to why the Bighorn River is 2018. As I drove over the Yellowstone near the river. Ya gotta love Montana. world famous. The busy season is July and Stillwater Rivers near Columbus, I I was reminded how many deer through September. The best time to could not help but stop and take a photo live in these mountains of Montana on fish this water depends on how you want or two. On another stop, I took a photo my drive back to the hotel in Billings. to fish it. March and April are great for of a beautiful, large red barn with the Since it was dusk, the deer activity was nymphing and some ; snowcapped Beartooth Mountains in significant along the sides of the roads June is mainly nymphs; then in July and the distance. I took another of an osprey and highways. It also kept my speed a August the caddis, tricos, and PMDs are sitting in its nest, then watched, once it little below the speed limit, fearing one in full hatch mode for dry fly fishing; might jump in front of my car. and finally, from September through My wife and I got ready to leave November it is nymphing and streamer Wednesday, but I made a point of having fishing. lunch with my other fishing buddy from After floating all the way down to a Montana—the only man I know that take-out called Bighorn Access, 13 miles loves fly fishing as much as I do—and downstream, we went back to where we talked fishin’ and huntin’ for two we started and floated the beginning hours while breaking bread. portion again, hoping to get some dry On my flight home, it hit me. The fly action. It was slow, but we did come was airborne, as a small bird started to reason I love Montana is not just the across two pods of surface activity. We attack it for flying too close to its nest. beautiful mountains and great fishing. It would pull the McKenzie drift boat over Of course I could not cross any of these is the people. Fine folks like our friends, to the bank below the activity and slowly famous rivers or even the West Rosebud our godson, their families, my fishing wade our way up to the fish that were or East Rosebud without stopping to buddies, and the guides and people we eating insects off the surface. We used a admire the beautiful water, albeit a bit meet. black ant dry fly since it looked like the high for this time of year. God bless Montana and all those small black caddis flies they were eating. After a fine lunch and some adult who live there. I hope they appreciate We only caught one before we got off beverages at the Grizzly Bar and Grill, how good they have it. the river a little after 5 p.m. at a ramp we drove up to a beautiful lake at the Postscript: Fishing was arranged through called Lind, three miles downriver, but foot of the highest mountains in the Bighorn Angler (http://bighornangler. it was fun to sight-fish. I could not help Beartooth Range near Red Lodge, com/, 406-666-2233). They also offer but think about the lucky fishermen that Montana, called East Rosebud Lake. lodging, but I did not use it. A full-day would fish this river in the late afternoon But the wind was too strong for our guided trip with two anglers costs $520; or evening (Bighorn Anglers has a little canoe, so we went back down the twilight trip mentioned in the report twilight trip) to fish the magic hour of to my friend’s cabin and fished the is $395. WHERE ARE YOU FISHING NEXT? ALASKA,ARGENTINA, BAHAMAS, BELIZE, BOLIVIA, CANADA, COSTA RICA, CUBA, CHRISTMAS ISLAND, GUYANA, MEXICO, MONGOLIA, NEW ZELAND,NICARAGUA, SEYCHELLES, SLOVENIA, RUSSIA, AND OVER 100 BUCKETLIST DESTINATIONS WORLDWIDE THE ADVENTURE STARTS HERE GO TO: WWW.WILDONTHEFLY.COM OR CALL (800) 543-0282

February 2019 -3- Volume 32, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT The Breakfast Club The phone call ends. Plans are set. Suddenly, reports of better weather shores of Cooper’s Town. The flat we Things are in motion now. to the north quicken our pace, and we arrive at is unlike any I have seen before, I spend the next few weeks tying the pack into a truck with a trailer and skiff and its white, sandy bottom is Joe’s idea appropriate flies: 14 Gotchas, 6 Crazy in tow. of a foolproof way of spotting bonefish Charlie variations, 12 experimental Half the day is lost already, but the in these less-than-favorable conditions. shrimp flies that just might do the trick, itch has set in and we want to fish, so, This will surely give us an and a few Tarpon Toads, because you why not? advantage. never know. More of the same in the north. The mind is a funny thing. Like a never-ending highlight reel, We launch the boat and make our That’s when I see them. or a movie marathon set to repeat, my way into the chop. There, in the deepest recesses of the mind begins to play out all the possible Wind-chapped flats, dark skies, and flat is a school of bonefish, tails pointing scenarios I might encounter on this trip. intermittent rain make spotting bonefish toward the sky and mouths clouding the All of them ending in bonefish glory. near impossible, even on the leeward clear waters around them. The only catch Double-digit fish, deep into the side of things. We see a few, cast at them, is the water is calm. Too calm, and too backing. and even manage to prick one or two, but skinny. The skiff won’t get us there. Perfect casts. it just doesn’t come together in the end. Without hesitation I slip off the Beautiful flats. Tomorrow will be better. The bow and into the water. I step slowly Sunny weather. weatherman even said so. and quietly, but I’m afraid I’m making The mind is a funny thing. The mind is a funny thing. too much noise and I may miss my shot, “Flight attendants, prepare for The next day is worse, sort of. Skies so I do what I otherwise would think landing.” are darker, rain is heavier, but the wind is impossible; a 75-foot cast with a glass fly Arrival. It’s cloudy. But, it’s an down. rod, a weighted fly, and in calm water. island, and afternoon thunderstorms are The café is empty in the morning, I almost can’t believe it when it normal. and we’re relieved to see that “the lands. A perfect cast. I might just pull The rain begins. Breakfast Club” isn’t there to further this off. We’re sure it will pass. It has to, dampen the mood. After a bite, we Tails twitch, turn, and close the after all we’ve got fishing to do. trudge out into the storm, determined. distance. The mind is a funny thing. We bear the watery onslaught beneath That’s when I feel it; the tightening Morning comes. It’s cold, and the water-logged jackets and let the rain have of line, muscle, and restrained chaos. rain falls at a 45-degree angle. The wind its way with us. I can hear the guys behind me is steady. Halfway to the meeting point, we yelling in approval and equal disbelief. The look on our guide’s face says see them making their way toward us, We have persevered through days of it all. This might not happen today. umbrellas in hand. As we pass, there’s soggy, unrelentingly dismal conditions Optimism is the only recourse at this a collective ambush of advice and for this one moment. It seems that even point. Maybe it will clear. disparagement. the clouds have opened up to shed light We agree to reconvene in an hour. “I don’t think so!” on the effort. Rods in hand, we make our way to a “A good day for drinking, not It truly is the perfect moment. local café. fishing!” Followed by the worst. . . . A hook set There, a group of older anglers sit, “Not today, fellas.” too shallow and an angler wound too sipping coffee at a table underneath a Maybe they’re right, but maybe tight. covered porch. They see us approaching. we’ll find fish. Them’s the breaks. A few blatant nudges and inaudible Back to the north. The water is You thought this story would have a comments get passed around, and as we glass, but the skies are unnerving. Gray happy ending? Every cloud has a silver wipe away the cold bitter rain from our clouds are punctuated by dark veins in lining, right? faces, the comments begin. the sky, and in the distance we can see The mind is a funny thing. “You fellas won’t be needing those patches of visible rain walls that pass and We did go on to catch fish that day. (pointing at our rods).” seem to blot out nearby islands. Some small, some big, some not even “It’s only gonna get worse from All the while, the northwest flats of bonefish, but it didn’t matter. We stuck here.” Abaco exude beauty in even the worst it out. We smile and nod. What do they conditions. Our first stop brings us past Do you know how many bonefish know anyway? an incredible array of undercut coral the Breakfast Club caught that day?— The mind is a funny thing. cliffs and islands that line the western Seth Fields, Editor

February 2019 -4- Volume 32, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT

Briefly Noted Things to Do . . . Places to Go . . . New Developments „„ Anglers who travel are a restless develop fishing destinations in South “All across Africa, Nile perch are bunch, constantly in search of new places Africa, Botswana, Lesotho, Gabon, extremely vulnerable to by to go and new species to pursue. Just to Tanzania, Sudan, and Cameroon. I’ll have an exploding population of some of the cite a few recent examples, remember more to say about their new Cameroon poorest people in the world, a population that wave of excitement that erupted destination in a moment. The third reason that in order to survive has reduced most not so long ago over golden dorado in Africa is going to become the next hot of the Sahelo-Sudanian savannahs to South America? Then, suddenly, everyone place to visit is because the world is altered landscapes where more than 95 simply had to go to the Seychelles, way getting smaller. There just aren’t that many percent of the biomass of indigenous out there in the Indian Ocean. For a while, other frontier areas left in the world to wildlife and fishes has been removed. it looked like Polynesia was going to be develop. Based on our work in Africa, we are of next hot place, but the fishing there did As regards Tourette’s new destination the opinion that it’s unlikely that there not live up to expectations. Not to worry, in Cameroon, it offers the chance to take are more than five relatively intact river though, because around that time a wave Nile perch, tigerfish, and yellow fish on basins in Sahelo-Sudanian Africa. The of even greater excitement was building the fly—and on foot from a clear-water point is, healthy environments are isolated around the Kamchatka Peninsula and is river where a variety of large and small and dwindling before our eyes, and a still cresting. In the midst of those four animals come to drink. The game scout journey to this location in Cameroon is the flurries of activity, fly anglers got wind of that accompanies your guide will actually opportunity to see a piece of Africa that is the fact that peacock bass are wonderfully carry a big-game rifle with him to keep an extremely rare representation of how catchable on the long rod. What in the you out of trouble with those animals. The vast areas of the continent used to be. It’s world is next? Nile perch here typically range upwards of literally time-travel, a last chance to see Well, Africa is next, in my view. In a meter in length (roughly three feet), but how it once was. the next few years there is going to be one one measuring 141 centimeters (about four “The serious perch fishing takes new place after another developed there, and one half feet) has been taken. Tourette place almost exclusively from just before and there are several reasons why. First, says the largest fish they have heard sunset until about 9:30; in other words, it’s hunting safari companies all across Africa about from this stream weighed just over night fishing. We’ve learned when perch are coming under increasing pressure 220 pounds. The tigerfish here top out at really go on the feed at this location. A because of trophy import restrictions, around 15 pounds, and yellow fish at about few may be caught in the day, but those and that is forcing them to look for new 12 pounds. All in all, a fascinating variety will typically be small ones and lucky sources of income. Fishing and game of fish to seek out. coincidences. Night fly fishing has its viewing are about the only ancillary Angling Report subscriber Brian own charm, and it is very much a part of activities they can turn to. Second, some Griffith is on his way to Cameroon as this what makes the fishing unforgettable. It terrific agents, such as Keith Clover and is written, and we hope to persuade him to does freak a few people out, but it should Rob Scott of Tourette Fishing (www. file a report on his return. In the meantime, be said that one quickly learns to time tourettefishing.com), have emerged in here are some excerpts from Tourette’s trip one’s by feel rather than sight. that part of the world. The duo have an literature to whet your appetite, beginning Standing under the starlight, alone in infectious sense of adventure that has with some notes about the marquee one’s own world, immersed in the sounds inspired them, in a few short years, to species available on this trip, Nile perch: of the African wilderness, is a raw, edgy

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February 2019 -5- Volume 32, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT

experience that’s wild in every sense. It evening. Once the sun gets low on the today. He is, of course, inseparably may seem scary at first but the risks from horizon, anglers will switch from 9 wt conjoined with the eponymous Crazy wildlife while fishing are extremely low outfits to heavier 12 wt outfits and bigger, Charlie fly. (See “An Oral History of and the guides and staff will be close at water-pushing flies in preparation for Nile the Crazy Charlie Fly” elsewhere in this hand to run over to help the moment you perch to start feeding. Fishing for Nile issue.) hook up to a fish. perch continues into the darkness. Your Charlie was born on March 13, “Daylight fishing hours will be spent guide will generally call lines up at around 1936, on Grand Cay, Abaco, Bahamas, chasing other species. There are abundant 9:30 each evening, at which point you will and began fishing under his father’s tigerfish up to about 15 pounds, for return to camp for a late dinner and some tutelage at age seven. At 13, he headed example, and they are very feisty. The drinks before heading to bed.” to Grand Bahama Island to work at a water is clear to crystal clear, so one You get the picture: this is an US missile base, then transferred to will often see the tigers along with other adventure trip, not a walk in the park. It’s Andros. In subsequent years, he sampled fishes before casting to them. One of the expensive, mind you—$8,000 for a nine- a number of jobs, from handling heavy most challenging and rewarding species day trip, six of those devoted to fishing, equipment to captaining a yacht before is the Niger barb (Labeobarbus bynni the rest devoted to getting there and back. becoming a chef at The Lighthouse Club occidentalis). These fish will eat a well- The trip involves an international flight in Fresh Creek on Andros Island. He also presented dry fly or nymph, but they are a to Douala, followed by a charter flight worked as an entertainer there, providing handful when hooked on the light tippets (included in the fee) and a four-hour drive evening calypso music. His free time there it takes to attract an eat. There are various to camp. Stay tuned for Brian Griffith’s was spent fishing, and he developed an other species available that take a fly, but report when he gets back.—Don Causey enviable reputation for his bonefishing we’re still working on how and where to Editor Emeritus. skill. While at Lighthouse, he once took catch them. • • • • • • a bonefish reported to weigh 18 or 19 “The average fishing day starts with „„ Editor Note: Jerry Gibbs, longtime pounds, depending on who is telling the breakfast in the mess area at 6:30 a.m. fishing editor atOutdoor Life, filed this story. It would have been at least the club Afterward, the clients as a group and their fond recollection and tribute to famed record, but times were different then; the guides, accompanied by armed game fly-fishing guide and outsize personality, fish was disregarded due to the color of scouts, head out in a 4 x 4 vehicle to the Charlie Smith, who passed away recently. Charlie’s skin, and the bonefish was eaten. allocated fishing beat for the morning. The fly fishing world lost one of Word of the catch spread quickly, The morning session is generally spent its icons this past December 30 with the though, adding to Smith’s already targeting tigerfish and yellowfish, with a passing of Charlie Hezekiah Smith. He growing reputation. Soon, celebrities little time dedicated to Nile perch fishing was 82. Over his lifetime, the legendary and international government officials if the conditions and water dictate. The guide, innovator, entertainer, entrepreneur, insisted on his guiding when visiting the group returns to camp at 12:30 for lunch and far-thinking conservationist club. The attention stoked Smith’s natural and to rest, rehydrate, and prepare tackle distinguished himself as undisputed father confidence, eventually leading him to the for the afternoon and evening session. of Bahamas bonefishing. Charlie, who construction, in 1968, of Charlie’s Haven The group will generally head out again died at the home of his son Prescott in on Andros, the first Bahamian-owned at around four in the afternoon, and once Stafford Creek, Andros, Bahamas, was lodge in the islands. That Behring Point again drive to the allocated fishing beat. the first Bahamian to establish his own venue burned in 1983. The first part of the afternoon session bonefishing lodge, and he was key in In 1988, when I fished with Charlie, will be spent targeting tigerfish in the bringing the once-exclusive sport of he was in the process of constructing deep water you will be fishing the same bonefishing into the prominence it enjoys a new Haven. This was before he took

February 2019 -6- Volume 32, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT

charge of the historic Bang Bang Club on Though his guiding days were done, my guide and has been since way before Pot Cay, an original 1940s hideaway for Charlie continued to develop new fly he became a part of our family. My trip the notorious and the glitterati. He was patterns, and he never lost his eye for the to Grayling was actually to join Matt for coasting easily along the summit of his ladies. In all, he had 15 sons and nine steelheading on the Pere Marquette, but game at that point, still quick as a cat, a daughters. Surviving at his death were 66 we had set aside an extra day to streamer- wellspring of bonefish knowledge and a grandchildren and 15 great grandchildren. fish the Au Sable. We launched the boat joyous raconteur of endless tales. “That’s what happens when all you do is at the canoe landing just downstream Under Charlie’s reign, the Bang Bang fish, cook, and play music,” he once said. from the Gates Au Sable Lodge. Matt has Club thrived as a corporate duck hunting/ • • • • • • a classic Au Sable River boat and a drift fishing retreat for politicians and industrial „„ Editor Note: Jack Franzen recently boat. For streamer fishing we took the drift leaders. For a time, it was a lay-low for braved the winter weather in Michigan boat. gangster Al Capone. During those years to fish streamers on the famed Au Sable I immediately noticed the large when he operated the Lighthouse and River. Clear, cold water and a shot at number of redds dug in the gravel— the Bang Bang Club, Charlie’s fishing some of the large fish that anglers have some of them looked more like salmon clients included assorted prime ministers, long known swim the waters of northern redds—huge ones, five to six feet long. George H. W. Bush, Ted Williams, Michigan should tempt any angler willing It’s apparent that many of the large fish Benny Goodman, Jack Hemingway, Dag to layer up and hit the water. In Jack’s from the bigger water downstream like the Hammarskjöld, and a laundry list of elite gravel in this area. fly anglers. Fishing talent aside, it was Matt and I fish streamers all year. In Charlie’s charisma, his love of people, his the spring, we fish them when there is high confidence as a lovable self-promoter that or colored water. The retrieve is pretty fast, instantly attracted people of all stripes to and the takes are aggressive. In late fall, him. we slow it down a bit. We still try to hit the Late in his career three of Charlie’s soft water along the bank, but we are not sons owned and operated Andros lodges ripping the fly. If a fish follows but doesn’t while the patriarch continued holding case, the endeavor proved worth it. take, sometimes just stopping the fly gets court at Bang Bang. His dream was The Au Sable River in Grayling, the job done. Matt ties all his own flies, to create a kind of university to train Michigan, is famous for its amazing and they work! young Bahamians to be stewards of mayfly hatches, most of which are finished One of the reasons this fishing is not their homeland’s natural resources, to by mid-July. After that, it’s terrestrials, as well known is that it can get quite cold. teach them fly fishing and other kinds ants, and mousing at night. The river is I was well prepared with six layers on top of angling, along with aspects of eco- characterized by its bank-side woody and three layers under my , so I was tourism, enabling them to establish debris—mostly cedar sweepers—which comfortable for the five hours we fished, environmentally sustainable livelihoods. offers excellent cover for large trout. even though it did snow a bit toward the In his late 70s, though his fishing Most Au Sable anglers know it’s a good end of the day. Matt’s venison chili and eyesight had faded, Charlie’s charm idea to drift a dry fly down a bubble line fresh coffee made a difference too. was far from diminished. His banjo next to one of those logs. What’s not as I caught four fish—none of them playing, blues singing, and tale-weaving well known is the excellent post-spawn huge. Several that followed my fly were appearances in movies such as In Search streamer fishing available in the late fall. in the 20-inch range. One of those I of a Rising Tide and Drift introduced him Recently I fished the Holy Water should’ve had, but I forgot to stop the to an unsuspecting and delighted younger (higher portion of the main branch) with fly. What was interesting was that all the generation of fly fishers. my son-in-law Matt Verlac. Yes, he is also action, except for one or two follows,

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February 2019 -7- Volume 32, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT

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February 2019 -8- Volume 32, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT

was grouped into two 20-minute “bite not nearly as interesting to me as the line orukayak.com/), a California company windows.” During one of them, I had four pointing in the other direction toward that has tapped into the Japanese art of fish chase me in about ten casts. increased portability and ease of carriage. origami (paper-folding) to create a 12- For this trip I stayed at Matt’s mom’s Think about it: If you want to go foot, single-person kayak that weighs only house, but normally I book a room at DIY fishing in the Caribbean and you 27 pounds and can be stored and carried the Gates Au Sable Lodge. The bulk know some of the best fishing is on the in a pack measuring only 33 x 12 x 29 of the rooms there are mothballed by other side of un-wadable channels, how inches. To be sure, the company makes Thanksgiving, but the owners keep ten do you solve this problem? Or suppose larger and heavier kayaks, but even their open for hardcore types. The fly shop you want to go to a lodge in the Amazon largest model, the Haven, weighs only is open and has everything one could where the guides know about a number 40 pounds and can be carried in a box need. This time of year, the restaurant of oxbow lakes back in the jungle, perfect measuring 33 x 15 x 30 inches. That’s for is only open on weekends, but you can for a kayak. Suppose, too, that your a 16-foot, two-person craft created with still get good food in town. There is not a favorite fishing vehicle is an RV that can’t the fishing market in mind. friendlier place I know of. accommodate a cartop kayak? The list At this point, I have not personally This is great time of year to fish. The tested an Oru kayak, but I will be doing pressure is near zero. If you like streamer that soon. In the meantime, my biggest fishing to large trout, think about making worry is that the craft may be so light this trip. and airy that it will be pushed around • • • • • • by the wind so much it will be difficult „„ Editor Note: And finally, here is to fish from. My other worry is about Don Causey’s take on an interesting new the craft’s durability. Will it puncture wrinkle in kayaks. and sink the first time I cross an oyster Kayaks have become popular of bed in Louisiana at low tide? I suspect a late among anglers who like to push the of possibilities goes on and on. Yes, you couple of light, easily deployable anchors envelope in interesting ways by doing could solve some of these problems by will handle the first concern. As for the things like tangle with sharks mano a renting a kayak locally, and you could second concern, company videos showing mano offshore and access super-skinny also pay an extra airline baggage fee or employees hitting one of the kayaks with waters even a flats boat can’t reach. use up RV storage space by buying a large a hammer and throwing it off a two-story Most of the new developments in kayaks and heavy inflatable kayak. Personally, building are very reassuring. now are in the area of propulsion and I hate inflatable kayaks. The perfect The company is sending me a kayak the addition of new gadgets such as solution, of course, would be a light, fully for testing this spring, and I will file a pontoons that allow you to stand up. Some collapsible kayak—a craft that would candid, follow-up report after I use it kayaks now are so large and heavy and fit into a satchel-sized pack you can locally here in Florida and in the Bahamas festooned with gadgets they can’t be lifted carry with one hand or on your back as a in May. Tentatively, I give this product a comfortably by one person or carried on backpack. thumbs-up for innovation. Stay tuned.— top of a car. That line of development is Enter Oru Kayak (https://www. Don Causey, Editor Emeritus.

On the Radar

Angling Report subscribers are always looking for new opportunities and waters to explore. In this section, we will provide you with details for new and expanded operations that are popping up on the international and domestic radar. s there a difference between an genetics, water quality, fish size, and around the world. Hawaii’s bonefishing Atlantic salmon caught from the an equally endless discussion on native industry has also long been a rumor IGaspé Peninsula of Quebec versus versus invasive species, I ask you to mill that’s boasted claims ranging from one hooked on Russia’s Kola Peninsula? consider that the only real difference is larger-than-life fish and incredible Does a billfish from the Baja Peninsula one of aesthetics. Ultimately, unless you scenery to its distinctive “pancake” jump higher or fight harder than its have to factor in spouses or children, flats and bonefish that are as finicky as counterpart off the coast of Bimini? you’ll likely end up in the place you permit. So we got in touch with Captain And, when it comes to trout, is an 18- long to see most; the destination that Jesse Cheape of HI Tide Fishing to inch brown trout sipping dry flies on the gets you most excited. talk Pacific bonefish and the Hawaiian Frying Pan any more of a prize than one Many would describe Hawaii as approach to the gray ghost of the flats. on the River Test? one of our nation’s most beautiful states, The airwaves surrounding Pacific Before descending into a bottomless yet it hasn’t enjoyed the same onslaught bonefish have recently been hogged by dispute fueled with arguments about of publicity as have other destinations stories from the Caribbean and Indo-

February 2019 -9- Volume 32, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT

Pacific .The Bahamas, the the large single-tailing fish, they can of Waikiki, where most people stay. Seychelles, and Hawaii are all notable be more like permit in some ways; Everything on the island is within fisheries, but what in your opinion everything must align. I believe that’s driving distance, 30 minutes to an hour separates Hawaii from the pack? what drives some anglers our way. depending on traffic. Hawaii, or Oahu—where we are They’ve fished many other places where Hawaii has it’s own allure for based—is a relatively easy place to get bonefish are much easier and smaller. travelers, and the landscapes around to, with direct flights into Honolulu from It’s a challenge. Oahu are no doubt very different most major airports. Hawaii can also One very cool part of fishing the from those found in other bonefish be more family friendly, with activities flats in Hawaii is the opportunity destinations. Do the hardcore bonefish for the non-angler as well. It’s also the to hook up with by-catch like giant anglers you guide remark on the first stop for the majority of anglers on trevally. Could you talk about how experience as compared to other their way to Christmas Island and other often anglers get a shot at trevally? places they’ve been? Indo-Pacific fisheries. So people have GT fishing on the fly isn’t When fishing areas near the airport, connecting flights to go bonefishing at something we target or promote in any some anglers comment on how rare it is a place with great bonefishing. They’re real sense, and Hawaii isn’t the place to fish so close to a major city and have missing out. that comes to mind to fly fishermen great bonefishing so close to the creature Hawaii has long been known seeking those species; however, in the comforts people love. Also there are the as the home of some very large summer months we do see them on the mountains in the background. There are bonefish, but it is said that it is more flats on certain tides. When fishing those no other bonefishing destinations that of a “singles” and “doubles” type of areas, I do bring a 12-weight with me at have mountains and scenery like we do , and that these big bones are all times. During a week, sometimes we in Hawaii. near impossible to catch. What is the see a GT every day; you might get one average size bonefish your customers or two legitimate shots on a trip. HI Tide Fishing packages are targeting, and are the extremely I have been told that Hawaii Full day—$700 big bonefish really that difficult to is a great destination for anglers • Includes fly rods, reels, flies, bottled catch? looking to book a family-friendly water, lunch We do see some really big bonefish location, while still having great on the flats around Hawaii. Our clients bonefishing. How close is the fishing Half day is $500 on average catch fish in the five-pound to local lodging, beaches, and local • Includes the same except lunch. range, but in certain months we see attractions? more schools of smaller fish that are One of the areas we fish is 20 For more info on HI Tide Fishing, more aggressive; both are fun. As for minutes away from the famous beaches go to www.hitidefishing.com.

February 2019 -10- Volume 32, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT

OUTFITTER CRITIQUES The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

This section of The Angling Report is based entirely on subscriber-written Fishing Trip Report Forms. Our policy on these forms is to publish excerpts in the newsletter of Angler Network Forms as received, without censorship. Agents, guides, lodge operators, and/or outfitters who disagree with any comments in this section are free to submit a rebuttal. As a subscriber, you can help extend the reach of this program by filing a Fishing Trip Report Form yourself. You will find one online at www. anglingreport.com, and clicking on File a Trip Report.

„„ Here’s an interesting development the Italian Bistro and Coco’s beachside dryer unit. Lodging comes in two options: out of Great Abaco Island. The long- restaurant and bar), and in the center of the the marina-view rooms and the marina- standing retreat, Treasure Cay Marina & estate lie a pair of strip malls with stores view suites. The marina rooms are nice, Resort is soon to toss its name in the hat run by local patrons. ground-level rooms that will comfortably of bonefishing outfitters and lodges on the Some of the people in these stores, accommodate one or two guests. island, and it plans to do so in a big way. and especially those found at Café The marina suites are two-story This will definitely be of interest to those Florence, made the experience for me. units that sit above the regular marina looking to explore new bonefish waters The café is run by Captain Forty and his rooms and have a downstairs living room, in the Bahamas. More on that later, but lovely wife, Florence, and is a mainstay kitchen, and second bathroom. Up a first, a little history and information about of the local atmosphere. Aside from the staircase you will find a queen-size bed Treasure Cay. very vibrant personalities on display there, and separate master bathroom. These units Long known as one of the top they have great coffee and an excellent are very comfortable, with plenty of room destinations for trophy bluewater fishing, selection of foods for breakfast and lunch. for a small family, but the stairs up to the Treasure Cay is no stranger to running The cinnabuns are a staple of the menu suites and then those up to the bedroom fishing operations out of its comfortable and should not be missed. may be a bit of a trial for anyone with harbor on Abaco’s east coast. The marina The convenience of these stores— limited mobility. The kitchen and full- has made itself famous through years including groceries, laundry, gifts, food, sized refrigerator are very helpful if you of impressive catches put forth for the an ATM—the abundance of things to do, wish to buy groceries and save yourself Bahamas Billfish Championship, where and the nearby beaches all make this one some extra money on food and drinks Treasure Cay has displayed two marlins of the more suitable places to stay with during your stay. over 1,000 pounds—of which, one is your family or a significant other in the out Currently, some of the currently mounted above the waterside bar islands, while still being in reach of great accommodations that are available through in the marina’s central marketplace. bonefishing. Treasure Cay Marina & Resort are under The marina serves not only as a home It should be noted that all the various construction and redesign. The owners base for fishing operations, but also as a establishments within and around Treasure are finally reinvesting in the grounds and major port for travelers, vacationers, and a Cay are priced toward tourism—meaning lodging after years of disrepair, due to large number of people who call Treasure the meals and drinks are not cheap. You damages caused by recent hurricanes. But, Cay home for the more favorable portions can expect a burger, fries, and a coke to like a phoenix rising from the ashes, the of the year. This all makes for quite a run you $18 or so. There is a $75 all-you- resort has sprung into action and has with lively ebb and flow of people through the can-eat option that is worth consideration it plans for a new and better Treasure Cay, marina and the various bars, restaurants, for those not already locked into a fishing most importantly with new flats fishing and the world-class beaches, all within a package; more on this later. options for flyrodders and light-tackle quick walk from the docks. It should be Aside from the creature comforts, fishermen. noted, however, that it still has an out- Treasure Cay is also renowned for its Moreover, there is even a rumor of islands relaxed vibe, unlike many of the beautiful white sand beach. I have never investment in a new upscale sportsman’s more touristy destinations you might find seen prettier or felt softer sand anywhere quarters on the grounds that would in the Bahamas, yet much like the bigger in the world. It is picturesque, to say the serve as home base for the resort’s more destinations, there are direct-flight options least. discerning outdoor aficionados. Along into the island. The lodging at Treasure Cay is with this idea is talk of developing an In truth, there is so much to do just also very comfortable. The rooms have exclusive space for anglers and guides to within the gates of Treasure Cay that one modern amenities, bedding, and all the meet, drink, have a cigar, and socialize. would have to search for a reason to leave, conveniences of home. Rooms include We will be keeping an eye on this story as aside from island-hopping and fishing. comfortable beds, flat-screen televisions, it progresses, and we promise to deliver There are a handful of restaurants on the clean bathrooms, and views of the harbor a full report on the future of this new grounds (I would highly recommend entrance; some even have a washer and development, which I have been told may

February 2019 -11- Volume 32, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT

be called the Abaco Sportsman’s Lodge. more and more fish, but Joe said it was One day, the wives were island hopping Stay tuned for more. still not as productive as it should be. The to Green Turtle Cay, another they were Now for the fishing: Experienced flats wind also began to soften, and visibility on the beach, and one day we all rented fishermen have long known that Abaco was improved when it wasn’t raining. a 27-foot boat from the marina and took has an abundance of bonefish and that its I can tell you, however, that the large off to view the area and visit Noname Cay eastern shores are home to some very big bonefish we often hear about on Abaco are and its famous “Piggyville” beach, where bonefish. We were slated to explore much not just allotted to its eastern shores. On visitors can feed and swim with pigs. The of the east coast on our trip, but, as you several occasions, I remarked, “That’s the wives got a real kick out of this, as did we. may have read earlier (see the Editor’s biggest bonefish I’ve ever seen.” And then, There are islands dotting the eastern shores Column in this issue), the weather was a bigger one would come along. There of Abaco, and almost all of the larger ones downright brutal during the majority of was no shortage of big bonefish. are inhabited and have a very distinct our trip. Due to heavy winds on the east The big bonefish were also very culture and story to tell. coast, we had to change plans. difficult to connect with, as they were I highly recommend taking an off Lucky for us, one of the guides either in small wary schools or were day and getting out to explore what’s out scheduled to take us out, Joe Pritchard, is traveling by themselves and moving there. There is truly too much to see in from the northern city of Cooper’s Town, quickly. We did manage to hook one this area. You would need at least a week which lies on the leeward side of the island or two that may have been close to the to even scratch the surface, but then again, in its northwest corner. Joe is probably the eight-pound mark, but even these were who couldn’t use a week or two in the only reason we were even able to catch small compared to some that we saw. At Bahamas? bonefish on this trip. His familiarity with one point, we saw three large barracuda Next time, weather permitting, I plan his home waters, coupled with his 25-plus together on a single flat, and then they to see a whole lot more. Treasure Cay years experience helped us to make the swam away from us. As we poled along has offered me a rain check, due to the most of a pretty bad situation. that same flat only a minute or so later, inclement weather we experienced, and Due to poor visibility, Joe tried to they appeared again, barreling toward us. I plan to return with a full review on the pole us around flats that either were more east coast, and the fishing that is accessible protected from the wind than others or had from the convenience of the marina.—Seth sandy bottoms that might make it easier to Fields, Editor see bonefish in low light and unfortunate Postscript: I booked my trip through conditions. It still proved a difficult task Robert Ulrich of GoFishBahamas (Robert. at times, but I feel that we were pretty [email protected]). Robert is helping successful given the circumstances. lodges, like Treasure Cay, to develop As for the northwest corner of the We ignored them and continued moving— their fishing programs and come up with island, I can wholeheartedly say that it is until we soon realized that these were competitive packages for anglers, like this one of the most distinctly beautiful places not barracuda but rather three extremely new fishing package available until April I have ever seen. The typical coral-lined large bonefish. Their ringleader made us 2019 (based on double-occupancy marina or mangrove-rich islands that one might all scratch our heads in wonder. It might rooms) with taxes, service charges, and expect to dot the landscape were there, but easily have been a 12-plus-pound fish. meal gratuities included: as we went farther, the mangroves were Incredible. replaced with striking jagged and undercut I hesitate to give a final review of 4 days, 3 nights / 2 full days coral cliffs lined with white sand beaches the fishing near Cooper’s Town, as the fishing—$1,290 PP that looked like a setting more in keeping conditions seemed to have everything 5 days, 4 nights / 3 full days with Hawaii or the Pacific Northwest. out of whack, but from what I saw, there fishing—$1,797 PP Then, just when we thought we had are plenty of fish. So much so, that I told 6 days, 5 nights / 4 full days seen it all, we would motor a ways and Treasure Cay’s general manager that they fishing—$2,195 PP (ask about your 5th suddenly find ourselves on flats that were should consider bringing the area into their night for FREE) surrounded by dense pine forests lined usual lineup, regardless of the weather, with a mangrove perimeter. The varying just for its beauty and big bonefish. The Included with each: degrees of beauty in this area almost made 20-minute drive to the boat launch was • Welcome drink up for the bad weather. well worth it. • Continental breakfast & dinner As for the bonefish, we saw enough When I stated earlier that Treasure • Round-trip airport shuttle to keep us hopeful, but the cold front Cay was a place you could bring your • Fishing guide and boat (gratuities not of the storm seemed to have spread out spouse or family, I meant it. My friend included) the bonefish and sent many of them out and I both brought our wives on this trip, For more information go to https:// to deeper waters. By the second day, as and I can unequivocally state that mine did treasurecay.com/. Call toll-free at 800-327- temperatures warmed, we began to see not miss me one bit while I was fishing. 1584 or 954-525-7711.

February 2019 -12- Volume 32, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT

In Memoriam An Oral History of the Crazy Charlie Fly mall Hope Bay Lodge, not the fly to ride hook point up. However, went home after fishing with me, he far from the Lighthouse Club both Charlie and his son Prescott insist gave the fly to Mike Michalak of The Swhere Charlie worked, was the Charlie’s first flies were “eyed,” using Fly Shop in Redding and asked Mike occasion of a 1960s visit by Bahamas the beads from a military dog tag neck if he would have a lot of them tied Prime Minister Lynden Pindling with chain. up. Mike agreed only if I said it was guest Pierre Trudeau, Canada’s PM. According to the Nauheim legend, OK. So he called me up and I said go Having heard of Smith’s various the now eyed fly, intended to imitate ahead.” talents, Pindling requested not only a glass minnow, was firecracker hot To his credit, following the that Charlie cook and serve them, on the bonefish, provoking Charlie to Orvis interplay, Bob Nauheim asked but that Smith take the two notables repeatedly comment “Dat fly nasty!” Charlie if he would accept the fly’s fishing the next day. Small Hope Nauheim logically rechristened the name change to Crazy Charlie. Smith owner Dick Birch, good friends with pattern Nasty Charlie. signed a letter agreeing. “The fly made Charlie, arranged it all, advising Once home, Nauheim let Key West millions for the fly but Charlie that he’d better catch fish. He guide Jan Isley use the pattern on fussy I’ve never received any compensation, did, of course, and that segues into Keys bonefish. Isley was first to tie the Charlie affirmed back in 2014. “I’m the conflicting history of what’s now fly with a hair wing (the original had not bitter about it,” he added, “I’ve had called the Crazy Charlie fly. two small saddle hackles). Soon after, a blessed life.” Facts can fade, memories become Nauheim used the fly on a trip to the creative over the years, but before his just-opened Christmas Island venue. fish date with the two PMs, Charlie Planning a trip to Christmas himself, reportedly recalled his father many then Orvis president Leigh Perkins years back plucking a duck feather and spoke with Nauheim to learn what tying it to a hook. Charlie remembered flies worked on the bonefish there. Of huffing himself to the water and course it was the Charlie. Following promptly catching a bonefish on that a successful trip, Perkins arranged to “fly,” saying it looked like a swimming offer the pattern in the Orvis catalog. minnow. With that incident in memory, Either Perkins did not like the original Smith said that he tied up flies using name or somehow “Nasty” morphed chicken feathers the night before the into “Crazy” during a communications prime ministers’ date, and that this was glitch. indeed the birth of the “Charlie.” Charlie himself added to the story Facts now become muddled. Bob with this: “When Bob Nauheim first Charlie Smith 1936–2018 Nauheim, co-owner of the Santa Rosa, California–based Fishing International travel agency had fished with Charlie on a number of occasions. On a 1977 trip, he and his partner Frank Bertania, using a Deceiver pattern, were evidently experiencing regular bonefish refusals. According to Charlie, he broke out the fly that had caught fish for the prime ministers, and soon the bonefish began eating for the Californians. Evidently Nauheim wanted to name the fly Bonefish Charlie Smith. But hold on; another version of the story describes Nauheim that evening tweaking Charlie’s chicken-feather pattern by adding bead chain eyes that not only added slight weight but with their placement caused

February 2019 -13- Volume 32, Number 2