This copy is for your personal, non-commercial use only. Distribution and use of this material are governed by our Subscriber Agreement and by copyright law. For non-personal use, please contact client relations at 1-866-831-4314 or email [email protected].

JUNE 2015 | OUR 37TH YEAR AndrewHarper.com TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES

THIS MONTH , FORTS, BAZAARS, DESERTS AND TIGERS

EXCITING INDIAN DISCOVERIES Exotic new hotels and : A Journey Through camps, cashmere, jewelry, polo, festivals and more

NEW YORK UPDATE New Midtown hotels, plus Theater District restaurants, shops and museums

WEB EXCLUSIVES Look for these symbols, then visit The Hideaway Report at AndrewHarper.com.  = additional related article  = slideshow  = video

IN THE NEWS New Era on Cap Ferrat

FEW GRAND HOTELS are quite as grand as the Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat. Built in 1908, it is surrounded by 17 acres of lavender and Tranquil garden at the glamorous new Rajmahal hotel, Jaipur citrus trees at the tip of a PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER pine-scented peninsula seven miles east of Nice. THE FAMOUSLY OPULENT PALACE HOTELS OF RAJASTHAN — PLACES SUCH AS THE Gustave Eiffel designed the lobby; Pierre-Yves Rambagh Palace in Jaipur and the in Udaipur — remain an irresistible draw for Rochon presided over a 2009 renovation. History, most first-time visitors to India. But now, a new generation of sumptuous smaller properties grandeur, a celebrity clien- and luxury camps offers experienced travelers a variety of alluring alternatives. tele, a Michelin-starred restaurant, an excep- aipur, like much of India, has changed enormously miles away. At the same time, the Rajmahal Palace tional spa and a private Jin recent years. Today, a metropolis of more than was constructed: a serene pavilion surrounded by a stretch of waterfront: The 3 million people encircles the 18th-century core. pleasure garden. During the colonial period from Cap-Ferrat has them all. Fortunately, the heart of the city has lost little of its 1821 to 1947, this became the home of the British The only criticism has been that the service is magic. Elephants and camels still mingle with the Resident political officer. Then, after independence, a tad old-fashioned. Now cars and tuk-tuks; the gem and textile merchants the flamboyant, polo-playing Man Singh this is likely to change. In continue to ply their trades in the kaleidoscopic II adopted the Rajmahal as his personal residence. May, Four Seasons took Johari Bazaar; and the precincts of the immense It soon became a kind of guesthouse for the global over management of the City Palace are as imposing and exotic as ever. elite, presided over by his dazzling wife, Gayatri property. Henceforth, North American hospi- By Indian standards, Jaipur is not especially Devi, author of the best-selling memoir “A Princess tality can be expected to ancient. In 1727, at the instigation of Maharaja Jai Remembers.” The queen of came to stay, augment Gallic elegance Singh II, a new planned city was laid out on a grid, as did Jackie Kennedy, along with an international and flair. FOURSEASONS.COM a replacement for his previous capital, Amber, seven cast of politicians, sportsmen and socialites.

For personalized trip-planning assistance, call (800) 375-4685 or email [email protected]. AndrewHarper.com | For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. TEXTILES Scarves and Shawls

‘SHOCKING PINK is the navy blue of India,” Diana Vreeland famously declared. Rajasthan is a place of vibrant color. The desert may be mono- chrome, but the peacock is a common native bird, and the people delight in crimson, emerald and Living room of the Maharaja’s Apartment, Kennedy Suite bedroom, and lunch in The Collonade gold. For Rajput and Mughal rulers, color and PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER display were an expres- sion of power. In Jaipur At the end of 2014, the Rajmahal Palace amounted to understatement. The modern marble and , the skills assumed a new incarnation as a boutique hotel. bath contained a large round soaking tub, as well and crafts of the 16th Although it is still owned by the royal family, as a sizeable and effective walk-in shower. century are now in global management of the property has been entrusted to At present, Rajmahal offers 14 air-conditioned demand. My guide took SUJÁN, an expanding Indian hotel company best rooms and suites, including two magnificent Royal me to Maharani Textiles & Handicrafts, an appar- known for its upscale wildlife camps. Arriving in Apartments, but up to 15 new accommodations are ently unremarkable store Jaipur, we turned off a congested urban highway and planned. The two-bedroom Maharaja’s Apartment in the Jodhpur bazaar a entered a hidden 10-acre enclave of neat flowerbeds comes with a drawing room that opens onto a private 10-minute walk from the and clipped lawns. At the end of a stretch of raked terrace, a dining room with seating for eight, and a RAAS hotel. “We have around 2,000 employees,” gravel, our car drew up beneath the of an dedicated butler. The equally impressive Maharani’s owner Mukesh Jain told imposing pink mansion. There, staff in white robes Apartment also provides a private dining room, plus a me, “and we manufacture and scarlet turbans escorted us up a flight of steps veranda and a heated plunge pool. Scarcely less lavish for many of the top inter- into the cool of the ceremonial Hall. India’s are the four Royal Suites, which include The Queen national designers. In New dust and cacophony vanished, and we found ourselves Elizabeth II Suite, built for the British monarch’s York, we work for Donna Karan. And in Paris, for in a world of voluptuous calm. Flutes of champagne state visit to India in 1961, and The Kennedy Suite, Hermès. Here, you can arrived on a silver tray. inhabited by Jackie Kennedy in 1962. buy this for $200,” he Although Rajmahal is nearly 300 years old, Having settled in — the services of a butler to continued, flinging open its architecture was modified in accordance with unpack our bags were offered and declined — we an exquisite cashmere shawl. “But on the Rue du European tastes. Inside, the décor is now also a went for a stroll around the gardens before relaxing Faubourg Saint-Honoré, mixture of Indian and colonial styles, laced with beside the lovely art deco swimming pool. Alas, they charge 7,000 euros.” generous helpings of art deco and chinoiserie. A like most outdoor pools in India, it was unheated. In Jaipur, you can enjoy Delhi-based interior designer, Adil Ahmad, was Currently, Rajmahal has a small spa in an adjacent a very different kind of shopping experience engaged to undertake a comprehensive redecoration. building, but plans are under way for a more at Hot Pink, an elegant Clearly, no expense was spared, and he was allowed extensive facility. boutique in the Hotel to indulge every conceivable whim and fantasy. In The hotel’s principal dining venue is The Orient Narain Niwas Palace that addition to 46 custom-designed wallpapers, Ahmad Occident, where excellent Indian and Western was co-founded by French installed a flamboyant, at times overwhelming, color cuisine is graciously served in a grand mirrored designer Marie-Hélène de Taillac. The shop contains scheme. Fortunately, he also relied extensively on space. I particularly enjoyed taking light meals in an eclectic mix of textiles family furniture, paintings and photographs, so that The Collonade, an exquisite glass-fronted veranda and artifacts from all despite the extravagance, the Rajmahal retains the overlooking the gardens. Nearby, The Polo Bar displays over India. atmosphere of a grand private home. silver trophies and black-and-white photographs from We found that we had been allocated the second- the former maharaja’s polo-playing days. floor Resident’s Suite. In contrast with the public For many years, my recommended property in areas (and many of the other guest accommodations), Jaipur has been the Rambagh Palace, also a former our huge circular room was more restrained in style, royal residence. Located about a mile from the though lavender paisley wallpaper, mirrored doors, Rajmahal, it is an imposing structure of 79 rooms a Persian carpet and a huge chandelier scarcely and suites surrounded by extensive grounds and

2 HIDEAWAY REPORT JUNE 2015 retreat” constructed around a 19th-century hunting GEMSTONES lodge owned by the local Thakur, or feudal lord. Situated on a ridge four miles south of the town, it overlooks a dramatic tract of wild and inhospitable country. We had been drawn to the property by

flattering reviews in major travel magazines and a Royal Collection seductive website. at Gem Palace The resort’s 12 stone cottages are set along the Jewelry shores of a small man-made lake, its surface dotted in Jaipur with wildfowl and its margins stalked by egrets and herons. Each cottage has been colorfully decorated LARGE RUBIES, with traditional Rajasthani furniture and artifacts, sapphires and emeralds can often be purchased and offers space, a high degree of privacy and a in Jaipur for much less chilly plunge pool. The cottages are touted as places than they would cost in in which to relax, to read and to escape from the the West. Although the polo fields. Although immaculately maintained, it world. Instead, they struck me as places in which to city contains innumerable inevitably seems more impersonal. In contrast, the stores and workshops, a feel bored and isolated — once the initial pleasure visit to the Gem Palace is much smaller Rajmahal permits its guests to feel of watching the ducks through binoculars had worn still mandatory. Founded that they have been personally invited to stay in a off. Most of the cottages are also inconveniently far in 1852 by the Kasliwal sumptuous private residence rather than in a hotel. from the resort’s public areas. In an attempt to be family, former court jewelers to the Mughal fair to the property, it must be said that the Indian emperors, it is housed RAIPUR food was excellent and the staff were consistently within the atmospheric friendly and helpful. The local town of Raipur is family haveli. In a series of nderstandably, many American visitors in India interesting — to a point — but its outskirts are showrooms, glass-fronted Uprefer to fly whenever possible, rather than to filthy and depressing. Lakshman Sagar may well display cases overflow subject themselves to the hazards of its notorious with a treasure trove appeal to some more adventurous travelers, but of both traditional and roads. Although major cities are now linked by I fear it will underwhelm a majority of Hideaway contemporary pieces. On four-lane highways, the standard of driving is still Report subscribers. the walls, photographs uniquely atrocious. However, it is possible to hire a of American presidents modern, air-conditioned vehicle, and if the chauffeur rub shoulders with JODHPUR Hollywood’s finest. Other is competent and experienced, you may travel in notable jewelers include comfort and relative safety. Clearly, this is the only odhpur, capital of the former princely state of Amrapali and Royal Gems way to visit more remote areas of the country. JMarwar, lies 80 miles to the northeast. Like & Arts. My guide also took Leaving Jaipur, we drove southwest for 145 Jaipur, JodhpurCHIN has expandedA greatly over recent me to the Silver & Art Palace, where I was shown miles to the small town of Raipur. Our destination, years. Some things do not change, however, and some wonderful old Lakshman Sagar, opened in 2012 and is a “heritage the Fort, an immense 15th-century diamonds from Golconda, citadel atop a 400-foot rocky outcrop, still looms near Hyderabad. Indian above the bazaar. If there is a more spectacular diamonds have a myste- PAKISTA N castle anywhere in the world, I am unaware of it. rious luster that, to my INDIA eye, is more alluring Mehrangarh also contains collections of weapons than that of stones from ir) a y and paintings, as well as exotic elephant howdahs. Southern Africa. The b NEPAL ( DELHI

RAJASTHAN R For many years, my recommended hotel in store’s owner offered H

JAISALMER 1 Jodhpur has been the colossal Umaid Bhawan Palace, to sell me my favorite JODHPUR 10-carat gem for the 4 HR S JAIPUR part of which is still home to the current maharaja. PUSHKAR 3 knockdown price of H 2 H R RS S S Like the Rambagh Palace, the property is surrounded $200,000, but fortu- 1 HR 4 HR ROHET HR 3 RAIPUR by manicured grounds and is exceptionally well- nately, I was able to resist RANTHAMBORE S managed by . For those who prefer temptation. Jaipur guides JAWAI BANDH 3 invariably take visitors HR smaller hideaway hotels, however, there is now a S UDAIPUR to the stores where they superb alternative. RAAS is an 18th-century haveli receive commissions, so it (mansion) situated directly beneath the walls of is important to be specific 0 200 MI Mehrangarh Fort that was converted and extended about the jewelers you 0 200 KM into a 39-room resort in 2009. wish to visit.

JUNE 2015 HIDEAWAY REPORT 3

ARABIAN SEA MUMBAI To reach the property, our driver had to negotiate boutique, as it has a panoramic view from a large POLO the narrow and crowded streets of the bazaar, which private terrace. Sport of certainly had not been laid out with automobiles in RAAS offers two restaurants and a spectacular mind. Whatever misgivings we might have begun rooftop bar. Darikhana serves Indian cuisine, while to nurture, however, were dispelled instantly upon Baradari offers a menu of international (chiefly INDIA is generally consid- arrival. Once we had passed through the impressive Thai and Mediterranean) dishes. The setting of the ered to be the birthplace of modern polo, although rose sandstone gateway into the courtyard of the latter, spilling out from an old stone pavilion onto a some version of the sport haveli, we found ourselves in a serene and stylish terrace overlooking a large heated swimming pool, is was probably played in environment. From the small reception, we were particularly appealing. Having established ourselves Persia as early as the led into an idyllic interior garden sensationally for lunch beneath one of the white umbrellas, we sixth century B.C. (Just to confuse everybody, the backdropped by the fort. I can think of few hotels often found it extremely difficult to summon the name “polo” is thought that have a comparably showstopping view. will to leave. The resort’s other amenity is a small to derive from pulu, the In addition to the four original buildings of but attractive spa. Tibetan word for a ball.) the haveli, the resort has three contemporary From RAAS, you may venture into the bazaar In the 15th century, the game was revived by structures. These have been constructed in an to experience as much urban hubbub as you wish Babar, the founder of austere modern style, but incorporate the same before retreating to the fragrant serenity of its walled the Mughal dynasty. The distinctive red sandstone as well as traditional motifs gardens. Overall, this is one of the most stylish sport was introduced to such as handcrafted jhali window screens. One and distinctive small hotels I have discovered in the West by the British. houses four Duplex Suites with private balconies. recent years. Today, the capital of Indian polo is Jaipur. This We had reserved a Luxury Room in the main is chiefly the result of the accommodations block. At 484 square feet, this JAISALMER lavish patronage of the proved to be on the small side, but it was comfortable late Maharaja Sawai Man nonetheless, with a king-size bed, a writing desk eading west, the landscape of Rajasthan’s Singh II in the 1950s and and a small sitting area. The bath was long and Thar Desert becomes steadily more arid. ’60s. Now, some of the H world’s leading players narrow — the architect obviously had to contend (The wildest regions of the Thar are off-limits, still come to Jaipur during with the unavoidable constraints of the site — but as they are bisected by the strategically sensitive the winter season to play provided a soaking tub as well as a walk-in shower. border with .) The desert city of Jaisalmer on the grounds of the The principal feature of our room, however, was the lies 175 miles northwest of Jodhpur. Once, it was Rajasthan Polo Club, next to the Rambagh Palace. unforgettable view from its small covered balcony, a refuge and supply depot for caravans plying the The hotel’s legendary and we never tired of gazing at the towering walls trade route between western India and Arabia. Polo Bar is adorned with of the fort, especially when floodlit at night. On a But with the rise of the great ports of Bombay and trophies and memorabilia, future occasion, I would probably opt for a Duplex Karachi in the 19th century, trade took to the sea and at the end of a match, it is a fine place for specta- Suite or for one of the three Heritage Suites in the old and the caravans disappeared. Jaisalmer declined tors to sample the huge haveli buildings. The latter are much more spacious inexorably, and when I first visited 30 years ago, it collection of rare Scotch and extremely atmospheric. The most desirable is was a virtual ghost town. Since then, Jaisalmer Fort whiskies. the one set above the resort’s exceptionally attractive has become one of Rajasthan’s most popular tourist

View of Jodhpur, and royal apartments, Mehrangarh Fort; restaurant and pool at RAAS hotel

PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

4 HIDEAWAY REPORT JUNE 2015 Sundowner in the Thar Desert, tent interior CULTURE and pool at The Serai, Jaisalmer PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER Rajasthan Festivals

RAJASTHAN’S most famous festival is the Pushkar Camel Fair, held each November at the time of the full moon (November 18-25, 2015). The town of Pushkar lies 90 miles southwest of Jaipur, and the event brings around 400,000 people, as well as 11,000 camels. Although spec- attractions, with around half a million visitors each anyone familiar with the Sahara or the Namib, and tacular, the festival now year. Nowadays, it seems to feature on the itinerary in places, the landscape is marred by power lines. draws huge numbers of every young European backpacker. Jaisalmer I did, however, spend a memorable hour watching of foreign tourists. In was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in a flock of some 250 exquisite demoiselle cranes contrast, January sees the 2013, but this seems to have done little to arrest its preparing for their annual trans-Himalayan return Jaipur Literature Festival, “the world’s largest free structural decline. Around 2,000 people still live flight to Siberia. (It is also worth noting that there literary event.” As well inside the fort, and expansion of their properties to are no scheduled flights to Jaisalmer, so a visit to as the notables of Indian cater to the ever-increasing number of tourists, as The Serai involves an air charter or a four-hour arts and letters, the event well as inadequate water drainage, has led sections drive from Jodhpur.) attracts international figures. (Participants of the ancient masonry to collapse. I can think of in 2015 included V.S. few more egregious examples of tourism’s ability to ROHET Naipaul, Paul Theroux destroy what it professes to love. and Jung Chang, author Located a 40-minute drive southeast of Jaisalmer, aving retraced our steps to Jodhpur, we turned of the best-seller “Wild Swans.”) Rajasthan is The Serai is an opulent desert camp created by south, and, after about an hour, came to the H renowned for its traditions SUJÁN. Its design evokes the lavish encampments village of Rohet. Having pulled off the paved road, of folk music and dance, once erected for Rajasthan’s rulers, but also owes a our driver continued along a rough dirt track that which have captured the debt to the ultra-luxurious safari camps of Southern passed through scrubby desert vegetation. Although imagination of Western Africa. The 21 enormous air-conditioned tents I soon became convinced that we were lost, I artists. The World Sacred Spirit Festival enjoys the provide every possible amenity, including king-size was diverted by the appearance of a herd of rare patronage of the maharaja beds, stone floors, colonial-era “campaign” furniture blackbuck and five nilgai, the largest Asian antelope. of Jodhpur, as well as the and extravagant baths with huge walk-in showers. Suddenly, rounding a corner, we were confronted by musician Sting. It will take Six Luxury Tented Suites come with private walled an impressive crenellated structure with mud-brick place in Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur, February 26-27, walls and observation towers, set on a sandy ridge. gardens and heated Jacuzzi pools. The stylish public 2016. The Rajasthan areas are sheltered by immense billowing expanses of Although it has a timeless appearance, Mihir International Folk white canvas and are appointed with Persian carpets, Garh, “The Fort of the Sun,” is in fact just 6 years Festival is also held at huge terra-cotta pots and spectacular displays of old. The brainchild of a local aristocratic couple, it the majestic fort each desert flora. The food is consistently excellent, and comprises nine huge suites (each a minimum of 1,700 October, and is co-spon- sored by Maharaja Gaj the staff members are conspicuously well-drilled. square feet) and aims to fuse traditional Rajasthani Singh and Mick Jagger. The Serai’s principal amenity is the spa, whose four architecture and furniture with the amenities of a tents are set in a walled garden. There, treatments modern resort. Since 1989, its owners have been employ organic Ayurvedic products made with restoring and upgrading their 17th-century family ingredients from the Thar. home, Rohet Garh, transforming it into a 34-room Located far from roads and villages, The Serai Heritage Hotel. But as Thakur Sidharth Rohet is essentially a place to relax, to read and to eat Singh explained to me that evening, trying to well while surrounded by the tranquility of the accommodate the needs of contemporary travelers desert. Comfortable, long-wheelbase Jeeps take within a 400-year-old building is an onerous task. guests on excursions, but the adjacent sand dunes So, for his second project, he decided to start from are unremarkable, or at least would appear so to scratch. Alas, his troubles were far from over. The Pushkar Camel Fair

JUNE 2015 HIDEAWAY REPORT 5 architect walked out, and he and his wife were obliged to design and construct the new building themselves, with the help of around 100 local laborers and craftsmen. Our suite proved to be spacious, colorful and supremely comfortable, with hand-stenciled walls, an ornate fireplace, inlaid furniture, bright local fabrics and carpets, and intricate wrought iron. Double doors opened onto a small terrace with a plunge pool. The outsize bath came with twin vanities, a walk-in shower and a soaking tub adjacent to windows with a view of the desert. The public areas at Mihir Garh are similarly expansive and have a wonderful sense of place, thanks to traditional textiles, paintings and artifacts. Everything about the property is distinctive. Meals are taken outside Pool terrace at Mihir Garh, Rohet next to the horizon pool, and there, we enjoyed PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER refined Indian cuisine, accompanied at dinner by local musicians. TIGER RESERVES Activities include Jeep excursions to nearby villages, especially those inhabited by the Bishnoi, Ranthambore and Sher Bagh Camp a group whose belief system not only precludes the taking of animal life, but also the felling of trees. In addition to the blackbuck and nilgai, birdlife in the region is prolific, and I was able to renew my acquaintance with the demoiselle cranes. The property also has around 15 Marwari horses — a breed once favored by Rajasthan’s Rajput warrior caste — and it is possible to ride out into the desert for picnics, or even to spend the night in a fly camp. Bengal tiger, and our lavish tent at Sher Bagh PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER Mihir Garh is comparatively remote, and the INDIA HAS 48 TIGER RESERVES, and current estimates suggest that they are now pace of life there is leisurely. It will not appeal to home to between 1,700 and 2,200 tigers. Although this may seem a pitifully small number, everyone, but if you want to unwind in an unusual the current trend is somewhat encouraging. According to some optimistic accounts, tiger and evocative setting, the property has much to numbers have increased by 30 percent in the past five years as a result of more deter- mined enforcement of anti-poaching laws. recommend it. Thakur Sidharth Rohet Singh is a India’s most famous tiger reserve is Ranthambore National Park —­ in part because solicitous host, and his staff are similarly charming. of its location, just three hours’ drive from Jaipur. Otherwise, the best-known reserves are Kanha and Bandhavgarh (in both of which I recommend luxury camps). New names will soon become familiar. For example, Pench, Panna and Tadoba national parks are all JAWAI BANDH attracting more visitors, and the first two already have excellent lodges — Baghvan and Pashan Garh — run by Taj Hotels. During Indian public holidays and on weekends, well- eventy miles south of Rohet, the flat, sandy known parks can be overrun with noisy trippers. Slandscape of the Thar Desert is replaced by Despite the crowds, Ranthambore remains a park of extraordinary beauty, with lakes, plains punctuated by enigmatic granite outcrops, forests, meadows and the romantic ruins of a 10th-century fort surrounded by ridges of some up to 1,500 feet high, overlooked by the hills of hazy hills. On this occasion, I opted to stay at SUJÁN’s Sher Bagh, a peaceful camp of 12 air-conditioned white-canvas tents. Each is appointed with a large double bed, sisal the Aravalli Range. Set in front of two such outcrops matting, hunting prints and dark wood-and-leather Edwardian “campaign” furniture. The near the remote village of Jawai Bandh, JAWAI camp en suite bath seems more suited to a luxury hotel than to a tent, with a stone floor, marble enjoys a setting that seems almost primeval. Another surfaces and a powerful walk-in shower. Public areas include a congenial library/bar new SUJÁN property, it opened in December 2013 (where Wi-Fi is available) and are decorated with large black-and-white photographs of tigers, taken in Ranthambore over the past 40 years. Western-style lunches are followed and comprises 10 spacious air-conditioned tents, by traditional Indian dinners cooked using clay ovens. Overall, Sher Bagh feels less like a plus dining and library tents, a small spa and a resort and more like an authentic safari camp, therefore, it is likely to appeal to travelers plunge pool. Decorated in white, black and red, the who have a deep and longstanding interest in wildlife. accommodations have an exceptionally imaginative  Read more about India’s tiger reserves and our visit to Sher Bagh online. aesthetic that successfully combines traditional

6 HIDEAWAY REPORT JUNE 2015 and modern design elements. Comfortable and convenient baths provide twin vanities and large, walk-in rainfall showers, while an exterior deck is furnished with a writing desk and two small sofas. In short, JAWAI offers the very definition of “glamping.” The principal reason for JAWAI’s existence is the sizeable local leopard population. Around 50 of the big cats inhabit the surrounding rocky outcrops in startlingly close proximity to the local villages. The reasons given for this are chiefly speculative, though the camp now has a resident wildlife scientist who may in time be able to provide definite answers. One factor may be that some of the leopard live in abandoned Hindu temples and have acquired an aura Tent interior and bath at JAWAI of sanctity as a result. And although the predators leopard camp do undoubtedly eat the villagers’ goats and cattle, a PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER well-funded compensation scheme ensures that this is not a financial inconvenience. (In fact, it may be the reverse: Cows are sacred in India, and do not eat beef, so bulls have no value — unless they happen to be killed by a leopard.) Game drives in comfortable open-topped Jeeps leave JAWAI shortly after dawn and late each afternoon. After one drive of around 20 minutes, we parked beneath an outcrop, where a female leopard had been spotted that morning. We settled down to wait, scanning the boulders with binoculars. About HOTELS AT A GLANCE an hour later, the leopard duly emerged from a cave SUJÁN Rajmahal Palace A96 where she had been resting during the heat of the LIKE Magnificent accommodations; ambience of a grand private residence; charming staff; tranquil atmosphere. DISLIKE The unheated pool; Wi-Fi that works only in the public areas. GOOD TO KNOW day and strolled across to an open plateau. There, The spa will soon be expanded. THE RESIDENT’S SUITE, $980; THE KENNEDY SUITE, $1,200. SADAR PATEL MARG,  she was soon joined by three large cubs. Although JAIPUR. TEL. (91) 141-414-3000. SUJANLUXURY.COM the family was clearly visible through binoculars, Lakshman Sagar 88 LIKE Colorful and authentic Rajasthani décor in spacious cottages. DISLIKE Isolated lodgings; lack of the leopard were beyond the effective range of a sophisticated program of activities. GOOD TO KNOW A large road is being constructed between the most normal camera lenses. Still, it was certainly hotel and Raipur, which may well impact the atmosphere of the property. SUPERIOR ROOM (LAKE VIEW), $195. RAIPUR, DIST. PALI. TEL. (91) 11-2649-4531. SEWARA.COM a memorable and worthwhile wildlife encounter. Other activities include walks with the local semi- RAAS A95 LIKE Spectacular location; delicious food; exceptionally stylish public areas; attractive spa. DISLIKE nomadic Rabari herdsmen and bird-watching on a Smallish Garden Rooms and Luxury Rooms. GOOD TO KNOW The swimming pool is heated, which is nearby lake where, in winter, you may spot sarus a nice change in Rajasthan. LUXURY ROOM, $340; DUPLEX SUITE, $420; HERITAGE SUITE, $465. TUNWAR JI KA JHALARA, MOHALLA, JODHPUR. TEL. (91) 291-263-6455. RAASJODHPUR.COM  cranes, the world’s tallest flying bird, which stand at a height of up to 5 feet, 11 inches. The spectacular The Serai A94 LIKE Glamorous tents; spacious public areas; imaginative interior design; friendly and helpful UNESCO World Heritage site of Kumbhalgarh Fort is staff. DISLIKE Disappointing excursions to Jaisalmer and into the Thar Desert. GOOD TO KNOW The property is self-contained and is chiefly a place in which to relax. LUXURY TENTED SUITE, $705. BHERWA a 75-minute drive away. (Its 15th-century perimeter VILLAGE, JAISALMER. TEL. (91) 11-4617-2700. SUJANLUXURY.COM  walls are 22 miles around, second in length only to Mihir Garh A94 the Great Wall of .) I am told that equestrian LIKE Wonderfully expansive suites; inspired interior design; charming owner and staff. DISLIKE Litter- activities are planned for the near future. strewn and unappealing Rohet village. GOOD TO KNOW Equestrian excursions to wilderness camps can be highlights of a stay. ALISHAN SUITE, $505, MEALS INCLUDED. C/O ROHET HOUSE, DIST. PALI. TEL. (91) 291-243- This is a stylish and well-run camp that is a 1161. MIHIRGARH.COM  destination in its own right. It also has the added JAWAI A94 advantage of being located about halfway between LIKE Highly imaginative design; beauty of the landscape; feeling of seclusion. DISLIKE Leopard sight- Jodhpur and Udaipur. I highly recommend a two- ings that are difficult to photograph. GOOD TO KNOW The huge fortress of Kumbhalgarh is only 75 minutes away and is a very worthwhile excursion. LUXURY TENT, $800, MEALS AND GAME DRIVES INCLUDED. night stay. JAWAI is also emblematic of the new JAWAI BANDH, DIST. PALI. TEL. (91) 11-4617-2700. SUJANLUXURY.COM  opportunities that India increasingly offers to preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel. Visit AndrewHarper.com for more information on these A and nine more recommendations in Rajasthan. sophisticated American travelers. H

JUNE 2015 HIDEAWAY REPORT 7 DEBUTS OF THE BACCARAT AND THE KNICKERBOCKER A Hit and a Miss in Midtown

SHOPPING Theater Memorabilia

Triton Gallery Posters number among the most venerable traditions of the theater. The delightful Triton Gallery contains a trove from shows past and present, and in sizes from the small cards that appeared in the front windows of ticket brokers to giants used at bus stops and train stations. I particularly admire the Grand Salon at the Baccarat Hotel work of James McMullan, PHOTO BY ERIC LAIGNEL who for years has created the posters for Lincoln TWO MUCH-HERALDED GRAND HOTELS HAVE RECENTLY OPENED IN . Center Theater, his most The Baccarat is a dazzling addition to the somber canyons of Midtown, while The recent being the striking artwork for the smash Knickerbocker on proved a considerable disappointment. revival of “The King and accarat was founded by King Louis XV in 1764. Could our suite match this, I wondered? It I.” Triton specializes in his The news, therefore, that the company planned did. Its interior is the work of the French design creations. Among the real B finds here are posters to launch a brand of top-flight hotels understandably team of Gilles & Boissier. Floor-to-ceiling windows signed by cast members. piqued my interest. The flagship Baccarat Hotel admitted a luxurious flood of light, amplified by To browse the offerings opened in March and occupies a choice site in strategically placed mirrors. Both the living room at Triton is to experience Manhattan, mid-block on West 53rd Street directly and the bedroom were spacious — especially by the history of . Closed weekends. opposite the Museum of Modern Art. (Future New York standards — and filled with graceful 630 NINTH AVENUE, SUITE locations will include Rabat in 2016 and Dubai and custom-made furniture. A large table with connective 808. TEL. (212) 765- 2472. Doha thereafter.) The first 12 floors of a 50-story ports served as an expansive work desk, while an TRITONGALLERY.COM tower contain the hotel’s 114 rooms and suites. The armoire opened to reveal a red-lacquer cabinet The Drama Book remaining space is devoted to private residences. with an array of Baccarat barware and delectable Shop For any theater A charming young woman greeted us in the nibbles from Fauchon. The televisions (both hidden fan or aspiring actor street-level vestibule and, iPad in hand, confirmed behind large mirrors), as well as the lights and the visiting New York, a stop at The Drama Book Shop our reservation. Leaving the elevator on the second two layers of curtains, were controlled by a small is all but mandatory. This floor and entering theGrand Salon, we were suddenly tablet — about the size of an iPhone 6 — that proved cozy storefront has a immersed in light. Massive chandeliers that might intuitively easy to use. One small button delighted comprehensive selection be out of scale elsewhere here seem in perfect me: Marked “Champagne,” it summons a member of plays and musical theater scores, as well proportion. Judicious placement of seating areas, of staff who arrives with one’s vintage of choice. as memoirs and various tables and display cases actually creates a feeling of The bath is indulgent, right down to the crystal texts about acting, intimacy. Adding to the impressive room’s appeal is glasses by the double vanities. In particular, I liked directing, auditioning the subtle blend of materials: parquet floors; dark the long double shower, both ends equipped with and design. Chairs stand among the stacks, wood paneling; touches of silver leaf; mica-flecked large rainfall heads. allowing for leisurely ceilings; and marble and mirror wall treatments. The restaurant attached to the hotel, Chevalier, browsing. Large glass doors lead into the bar, a contrasting is named in tribute to the longtime creative director 250 WEST 40TH STREET. aesthetic realm where wood dominates. The bar of Baccarat, Georges Chevalier. Dinner was bliss. TEL. (212) 944-0595. counter is a grand 60 feet, and an outdoor terrace Gallic tradition informs the appealing menu of DRAMABOOKSHOP.COM overlooking MoMA greatly adds to the allure. Michelin-starred chef Shea Gallante. We began with

8 HIDEAWAY REPORT JUNE 2015 plump, cooked-to-tender sea scallops served with a shallot compote, morels and a silken velouté. These were followed by an irresistible beef entrecôte in a rich Bordelaise sauce with sides of spinach gratin and dauphinoise potatoes. Service was so confident and accomplished that it was hard to believe that the restaurant had only recently opened. Other amenities at the hotel include Spa de La Mer, with four treatment rooms, a 50-foot pool and a small gym. Overall, the Baccarat is a sophisticated and elegant property that makes a notable addition to New York’s roster of hotels.

ew York’s Times Square was for years an Service at Chevalier was Nunsavory part of the city. Adult theaters so confident and accomplished appeared to be outcompeting the old Broadway “ that it was hard to believe houses, and the neighborhood felt unsafe in the that the restaurant had only recently opened. evening. That began to change in the mid-1990s, and now Times Square ranks among New York’s Our suite’s sitting area and bedroom at Baccarat most popular attractions. Much of the area has been Hotel, and scallop appetizer at Chevalier pedestrianized; Broadway has tables and chairs PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER instead of traffic; and many billboards have been replaced by massive screens flooding the square Pre-Theater Dining with light. Despite this renaissance, luxury hotels have THE THEATER DISTRICT does not rank among New York’s top dining destinations. tended to avoid the area. Recently, however, The Nevertheless, it is possible to have a perfectly satisfying meal within walking distance of a Broadway show. Knickerbocker opened on Times Square at 42nd Aureole In 2009, Charlie Palmer moved his flagship restaurant from an Upper East Side and Broadway. John Jacob Astor IV built The townhouse to its current flashy space across the street from The Knickerbocker (hotel Knickerbocker as a luxury hotel in the early 20th guests have signing privileges). Mrs. Harper found her kale salad with peekytoe crab, century, but the property was later converted into blood orange and crème fraîche light and refreshing, if a tad overdressed, and I enjoyed offices. After a reconstruction of the interior, the my appetizer of tender octopus with sofrito, white beans and Serrano ham. Main courses landmark Beaux Arts red-brick building, decorated of black bass with asparagus and edamame, and salmon with roe, morels and hazelnuts each came flawlessly prepared, with crispy skin and moist flesh. 135 WEST . TEL. with elaborate cornices, quoins and a green mansard (212) 319-1660. CHARLIEPALMER.COM roof, reopened as a 330-room hotel in March. db bistro moderne If you are seeing a show in the West 40s, give serious consideration Staying in a property less than two months after to this outpost of Daniel Boulud’s culinary empire. It is a comfortable and stylish place its debut requires a willingness to overlook a few where the menu includes a tempting lobster salad with Bibb lettuce, hearts of palm and unpolished edges and occasional service hiccups. coriander yogurt as a starter; delicious salmon with sorrel; and the notorious db burger My ability to do so was tested as soon as we exited — a sirloin patty stuffed with braised short ribs, foie gras and black truffles.55 WEST 44TH STREET. TEL. (212) 391-2400. DBBISTRO.COM/NYC the car and looked up at the glass awning festooned with wires and open electrical sockets. A friendly ESCA Although this seafood-focused restaurant has culinary celebrities Mario Batali, Joe Bastianich and Dave Pasternack behind it, it feels surprisingly intimate. It’s an ideal bellman greeted us, wearing a gray newsboy cap, gray pre-theater dinner choice if you’re attending a show on the southern end of the Theater sport coat with black trim, gray knickers and black District. Focus on fish dishes such as the gray snapper crudo or the sensational skate wing Dr. Martens boots. I later learned that the outfits with spinach and onions. Other menu items, such as the slightly chewy baked local clams were intended to evoke the “history and elegance” and the overcooked chickpea fettuccini with shrimp and mussels, were less successful. 402 WEST 43RD STREET. TEL. (212) 564-7272. ESCA-NYC.COM of the hotel in its heyday, but the only feeling evoked in me was pity for the bellmen. Triomphe Restaurant Lured by flattering reviews in the New York press, we tried this formal restaurant in The Iroquois hotel. The hushed and elegant room decorated with Alas, matters did not improve in the sterile elaborate neoclassical molding could not mask uninspired presentations. A scallop appe- marble lobby. More suited to an office building tizer looked anemic, and the gnocchi with black truffles didn’t deliver the expected flavor than to a luxury hotel, its relentless grayness was fireworks. My Arctic char with blue potatoes tasted moist and tender, but Mrs. Harper’s relieved only by some black-lacquer art deco-style pheasant breast had been overcooked into balsa wood. No wonder the restaurant was practically empty. 49 WEST 44TH STREET. TEL. (212) 453-4233. IROQUOISNY.COM/TRIOMPHE panels. Initially, the front desk staff could not find our reservation, and we went up to the fourth-floor  Find more pre-theater restaurant options online.

JUNE 2015 HIDEAWAY REPORT 9 bar and lounge while they sorted the matter out. SIGHTSEEING Fifteen minutes later, the front desk informed us Tranquil Midtown Retreats we had received a double upgrade. Looking forward to a suite, we walked through our door to find a The Morgan Library & Museum It had been years since my last visit to this museum smallish room with one window and a king bed. centered on the library of financial titan Pierpont Morgan, and it was my first time seeing “What category of room is this?” I asked our escort. Renzo Piano’s airy 2006 addition connecting the three historic buildings on the property. The temporary exhibitions are usually of the highest quality. This time, we saw an original “It’s a Premier Room, with a view of 42nd Street and Emancipation Proclamation and a handwritten copy of the 13th Amendment abolishing Times Square,” she replied. This was something new. slavery in the “Lincoln Speaks” exhibition; vivid works by the likes of Picasso, Schiele, Never once, in all my years of traveling the world, Grosz, Warhol and Matisse in a display of the museum’s modernist drawings; and pages has a hotel “upgraded” me to the room category I from the exquisitely illuminated Rose Haggadah, a text read each year during Passover. had reserved. A short while later, an embarrassed An audio guide relates the rich history of Morgan’s library and office, grand spaces decorated in high neo-Renaissance style. I stood front desk manager, to her credit, did give us a Modernism exhibit right behind the man’s desk and surveyed his at The Morgan double upgrade to a Corner Junior Suite. extraordinary art collection including works by There, the much-touted Times Square views were Botticelli, Memling and Bellini. Here, Morgan memorable when we stood against the windows, famously locked in leading financial leaders until they agreed on a way to deal with the stock market but they were hindered by the architecture and the collapse of 1907. Beyond an ornate foyer, the arrangement of the furniture. It wasn’t possible to library’s three stories of inlaid-wood bookcases see out the window from the sofa without twisting at are capped with sumptuously frescoed lunettes. PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER least 90 degrees. At least from the comfortable king Morgan assembled a gorgeous collection of books, bed it was almost possible to look up Broadway. I did including no fewer than three Gutenberg Bibles (one is on display to the left of the library’s entrance). 225 . TEL. (212) 685-0008. THEMORGAN.ORG appreciate touches such as master light switches by the door and bed, and the complimentary soft drinks New York Public Library We saw a second Gutenberg Bible on display in the Beaux Arts Schwarzman Building overlooking , two blocks from Times Square. We have in the minibar. The bath had excellent lighting, ample visited the library before, of course, but we had never taken one of the free guided tours counter space and an expansive walk-in shower. Still, offered daily at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. (Sundays at 2 p.m. only). Our group of about 30 was considering the price of a Corner Junior Suite and large for my taste, but our guide proved both personable and passionate about the library. the fact that it ranks among the top accommodation In addition to showing us the expected ornate research spaces such as the Map Division categories, the absence of a tub and a second sink and Periodical Room, he discussed conservation challenges and explained why the Milton quotes adorning the palatial Rose Main Reading Room have no attribution (you’re just was very disappointing. supposed to know them). AT 42ND STREET. TEL. (917) 275-6975. NYPL.ORG Because Times Square has a dearth of upscale dining options, I was eager to try the hotel’s restaurant, Charlie Palmer at The Knick . The The lobby restaurant looks lovely, with lustrous gray banquettes and guest rooms and red calla lilies strikingly illuminated by small “ lack charm, the lamps on each table. We had a pleasant dinner, restaurant is but I couldn’t help comparing it unfavorably to unremarkable, other Charlie Palmer meals I’ve enjoyed. I liked and small windows my seasonal main course of halibut with fresh constrain the Times fava beans, carrots and lemon-chive butter, but my Our junior suite at The Knickerbocker Square views. appetizer of Scotch quail eggs with Dijon aioli and PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER pancetta was uninteresting. Worse, in a trifecta of

HOTELS AT A GLANCE banality, the dessert list offered only crème brûlée, chocolate lava cake and apple crumble. Baccarat Hotel A96 LIKE The Petit Salon, reserved for hotel residents from 4 p.m., is a rare oasis of quiet in Midtown Even taking into account the warm, helpful staff Manhattan. DISLIKE Because of reflections, the televisions can be hard to watch when the sun is and allowing for the hotel’s youth, The Knickerbocker bright. GOOD TO KNOW The hotel has a vintage 1970 Citroën DS in rich Baccarat red available to take guests anywhere within 15 blocks of the property. CLASSIC KING, FROM $1,015; CLASSIC SUITE, FROM $1,585. did not measure up. The lobby and guest rooms lack 20 WEST 53RD STREET, NEW YORK, NEW YORK. TEL. (212) 790-8800. BACCARATHOTELS.COM  charm, the restaurant is unremarkable, and small The Knickerbocker 87 windows constrain the views. The Knickerbocker LIKE The friendly and proactive staff; the Times Square views; the quiet lounge; the well-equipped fitness center. DISLIKE The unrelievedly gray décor; the silly bellman uniforms; the small windows; the lack of may very well be “The Premier Luxury Lifestyle a bathtub; the uninteresting restaurant. GOOD TO KNOW A first-come, first-served house car can drive Hotel in Times Square,” as its website claims, but guests short distances. PREMIER KING, $625; CORNER JUNIOR SUITE, $875. 6 TIMES SQUARE, NEW YORK, NEW YORK. TEL. (212) 204-4980. THEKNICKERBOCKER.COM it can’t compete with my recommended hotels

preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel. Visit AndrewHarper.com for more informationon the elsewhere in Midtown. H A Baccarat Hotel and 12 more recommendations in Manhattan.  Read about longstanding Midtown recommendations online.

10 HIDEAWAY REPORT JUNE 2015 NEW BRIDGEHAMPTON INN Judge Abraham Topping Rose. During the renovation, a small wing done in a similar style was added. A Stylish Long Island Refuge Beyond a restored barn stand the four “cottages.” Given the designation, one might assume them to AS SUMMER APPROACHES, THE GLOSSY MAGAZINES TURN THEIR be as traditional as the main house. They could not attention to the Hamptons, the string of towns along the South be more different. I was quite shocked at first. Then Fork of Long Island populated by old money, new money, just- I recalled that the juxtaposition of traditional and minted money and celebrity of varying degrees. Personally, I prefer contemporary is, in fact, characteristic of the area. It’s not all gray shingles and white trim. summering on peaceful shores with only the occasional cry of a gull Seven of the inn’s 22 rooms are in the main to disturb my reverie. Yet I always find myself quite happy to be back. house. These offer classic interiors with (mostly True, the Hamptons have changed greatly over decorative) fireplaces and the convenience of being I can’t think of the years — many of the old potato farms have been in the same building as the restaurant. We opted the last time — if ever — I felt the converted into tracts of McMansions — yet it’s a bit for one of the cottages, which have the advantages “ like people sighing, “Venice! You should have seen of larger baths and outdoor space. Right away, I need to comment on a dinner bread it 30 years ago.” At their best, the Hamptons still loved the expansive floor-to-ceiling windows and basket, but I exemplify the classic American seaside summer. the sliding doors that opened to our own little yard. would be remiss Upscale properties tend to be concentrated in The bath came with dual vanities, a tub, a walk-in if I didn’t mention East Hampton. However, the new Topping Rose shower and big, fluffy bath sheets. the superb potato House, which opened in mid-2013, is located in less With a central spray of seasonal flowers, the rolls by pastry chef frenetic Bridgehampton, seven miles to the west. dining room is a soothing space with sedate décor, Cassandra Shupp. The property’s most prominent feature is the white red banquettes and extremely comfortable updated Greek Revival house built in 1842 for the family of Windsor chairs. The menu, created by chef Kyle Koenig, emphasizes farm-to-table cooking. An artful Modern cottage exterior, our bedroom, and tranquil starter of squid-ink linguine with Fresno chilies, dining room mussels and sea urchin roe was richly redolent of the sea. Even better was a main course of black sea bass surrounded by sautéed sunchokes and king oyster mushrooms, a combination of tastes and textures united by a smooth Bordelaise sauce. I can’t think of the last time — if ever — I felt the need to comment on a dinner bread basket, but I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the superb potato rolls made by pastry chef Cassandra Shupp. Complimentary shuttles in the guise of Lexus SUVs can whisk you off to one of the local beaches. The able front desk staff can arrange for fishing, golf, tennis, horseback riding and water sports. And after a day in the sun, you might want one of the facials that feature in the treatment program at the small but alluring spa. My only reservation concerns the location of the pool on the side of the property that borders Montauk Highway. “Highway” is too grand a term PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER for what is no more than a two-lane road, but it is the main artery that runs through the Hamptons Topping Rose House A93 and can become congested at times. LIKE The full complement of services that sets the inn apart from others in the Hamptons. DISLIKE The lack of window screens in the cottages. GOOD TO KNOW Bridgehampton dining alternatives include Topping Rose House proved a delightful getaway Pierre’s for classic French, and Bobby Van’s Steakhouse. HOUSE KING GUESTROOM, $950; COTTAGE KING from the hubbub of Manhattan. How nice it was to GUESTROOM, $1,250. ONE BRIDGEHAMPTON — SAG HARBOR TURNPIKE, BRIDGEHAMPTON, NEW YORK. TEL. (631) 537-0870. TOPPINGROSEHOUSE.COM  stroll a sunny beach and dip into the refreshingly

preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel. Visit AndrewHarper.com for more informationon this brisk Atlantic, knowing that a hot shower and a fine A and five more recommendations on Long Island. meal awaited us back at the inn. H

JUNE 2015 HIDEAWAY REPORT 11 LAST LOOK LAST WORD Reader Survey 2015

TIME FLIES when you’re having fun, they say. And so, after 12 months of hectic but infinitely rewarding traveI, I find, to my amazement, that it is time once again to announce our annual Hindu priest descending from his Reader Survey. No editor temple near JAWAI can ever know enough camp, an aerie that he shares with the local about his readers. Obviously leopard population I hope to provide the kind of news that is most relevant PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER to your interests. I want to learn about your favorite hideaways, but I am also From My Notebook keen to find out more about your best-loved city hotels, by London Classic St. Regis Comes spas and family resorts, as well as your favorite cruises Luxury Train Reopens to Venice and safari lodges. Which Belmond — formerly Orient- Overlooking Hyde Park The 15-acre Isola di San discovery in the past year Express — is adding to its Corner, Clemente lies in the gave you the greatest thrill? extensive train portfolio. has always enjoyed one Venetian lagoon 10 minutes And what stay proved the Modeled on the Belmond of the best locations in by boat from San Marco. saddest disappointment? Royal Scotsman, the new London. The grand Regency Traditionally, it was known Which recent story have Belmond Grand Hibernian building was constructed as the “Gateway to Venice,” you found the most useful? will enter service in August as a hospital in 1827. After where the doge would greet Which countries would you 2016. The train comprises a lengthy conversion, it distinguished visitors. like to read more about? 20 en suite cabins (for a opened as a Rosewood Over the centuries, the And where in the world do maximum of 40 passen- hotel in 1991; 10 years later, island has been home to Collection Updates you dream about visiting gers) decorated with a it became a St. Regis. Now, crusaders, soldiers, monks JUNE BRINGS two more next? As an inducement, combination of contempo- after a two-year renova- and the insane. The grand of my personal guides: I am offering a sweepstakes rary and traditional Irish tion, it has reopened as part monastery buildings were Mexico & Caribbean and prize of a two-night stay designs. Two dining cars of the impressive Oetker converted into a hotel in Central & South America. at The St. Regis Aspen. will offer authentic Irish portfolio that includes Le 2003. When I last visited, Updates feature our latest To participate in the survey cuisine, including smoked Bristol in Paris. The grand the property had obvious discoveries, regional and to learn more about fish and artisanal cheeses. interior has been completely potential, but seemed a little notebooks, touring maps, the sweepstakes, go to Waterford crystal and Irish redesigned, following down-at-the-heels. It has restaurants and, of course, andrewharper.com/ tweed will further enhance plans drawn up by the late now reopened as The St. my recommended hotels. reader-survey. the sense of place. Planned Alberto Pinto. Reservations Regis Venice San Clemente The Harper Collection journeys range from two are being accepted from Palace. I suspect that the books are now available for to six nights. The six-night July 1. With Claridge’s, Hotel Cipriani may face individual purchase at “Grand Tour of Ireland” The Connaught and The some unexpectedly stiff AndrewHarper.com/store/ will follow an itinerary begin- Berkeley having recently competition. Incidentally, harper-collection. They are Treasures of India ning and ending in Dublin, been acquired by the island’s 15th-century also mailed bimonthly to by Private Jet visiting Cork, Killarney, Holding, the grand hotel Church of San Clemente Premier subscribers. To OUR TRAVEL OFFICE is Galway, Westport, Portrush scene in London seems must be one of the more upgrade your subscription, now accepting reservations (for the Giant’s Causeway) to be evolving at glamorous places in the contact clientrelations@ for this remarkable Harper and Belfast. considerable speed. world to get married. andrewharper.com. Journey, set for October 21- November 3. The 14-day Discover More at AndrewHarper.com itinerary is an introduction Find additional stories, my trip videos and more photography throughout the month on our website. Look for these symbols in to some of the most famous this print edition, then visit The Hideaway Report at AndrewHarper.com.  = slideshow  = video = additional stories  sights in India, including the

Free of hotel advertising since its inception in June 1979, Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report® (ISSN 0884-7622) is a private publication for sophisticated Taj Mahal. Participants will travelers. The selection of hotels and restaurants for inclusion is made on a completely independent basis, with Andrew Harper, LLC paying full rate for also attend exclusive events. all meals, lodging and related travel expenses. The Hideaway Report is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX 78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, To learn more, contact Erica Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. Copyright 2015 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; Doose at (800) 375-4685, or WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher. [email protected]. Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell Research Editor Adrienne Jany Photo Editor Kelly Zhu