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Watch List the Cia-Fsr THE CIA-FSR Pla nt For wa rd Full-Service WATCH LIST AT TUSK, VEGETABLES ARE ELEvaTED WITH WHIPPED FETA, HERB TEHINA, EGG, SEEDS, AND ALMONDS. BY RACHEL PITTMAN 46 MAY 2020 FSRMAGAZINE.COM T he plant- What do we talk about when we talk about forward plant-forward? The term doesn’t necessarily mean vegan, or even movement vegetarian. In fact, plant-forward dishes can include animal proteins. Those who eat a plant-forward diet—many of whom self-identify as flexitarians— is showing generally consume large amounts of fresh produce, whole grains, pulses, beans, and nuts but are not locked into an exclusively plant-based regimen. up in Per the Culinary Institute of America (CIA), plant- forward connotes “dietary and food system trans- formation that includes a whole range of health- kitchens ier, more sustainable approaches—from those that contain poultry, fish, dairy, and/or small amounts of meat to vegetarian and vegan offerings.” across the In reality, when we talk about plant-forward, we talk about a massive variety of diets, recipes, chefs, and restaurants. Vegan and vegetarian fare country. are part of it, but so too are dishes that creatively marry plants with smaller servings of animal protein. Through programs like Plant-Forward Kitchen (an Here are the education and digital initiative that presents strate- gies for reimagining menus and flavors) and events including the annual Global Plant-Forward Culinary concepts Summit, the CIA is helping chefs and restaurants integrate plant-rich dishes into their menus. Putting plant-forward into practice can look very taking different, depending on the restaurant. No Bones Beach Club offers parsnip-and-veggie “crab cakes,” veggie-rich Gjelina dresses up spigarello (an heirloom broccoli) with a crispy guanciale garnish, and Jajaja Mexicana serves vegan version of cantina fare, with several dining to the dishes doused in coconut queso. For all the vari- ety of dishes, these restaurants are connected by a commitment to give plants as much—if not more— next level. attention than other ingredients. As plant-forward cuisine reaches new heights, we sought to highlight restaurants at the fore-front of the movement through this inaugural CIA-FSR PLANT FORWARD WATCH LIST. Due to the sheer number of innovative concepts celebrating the ver-satility of plants, we limited the list to restaurants and restaurant groups with at least two locations. It is our hope that this report not only spotlights the operators doing it best but also inspires others to follow in their footsteps. FSRMAGAZINE.COM MAY 2020 47 PLANT FORWARD Veg in Vogue A s plant-forward dining grows in popularity across the U.S., it’s no longer just one-offs or indepen- dents crafting creative produce-heavy dishes. Big- ger chains have also jumped on the trend, and below are some of these brands’ most inventive plant-forward applications. Veggie Satay Lettuce Wraps N OT YOUR AVERAGE JOE’S • Thai peanut noodles • Roasted peppers • Asian slaw • Onions TRUE FOOD KITCHEN • Marinated cucumbers • Sweet chili dipping HQ: PHOENIX, ARIZONA sauce True Food Kitchen was built on the anti-inflammatory pyramid, which posits that a select variety of foods can Cauliflower Nachos counteract inflammation and improve overall health. The growing chain’s resulting menu spins animal pro- PN U CH BOWL SOCIAL teins and seasonal power plants, like beets and butter- • Corn tortilla chips • Cauliflower nut squash, into fresh, indulgent fare (e.g. squash pie • Creamy jack queso • Pickled onions with coconut whipped cream). • Jalapeños • Jalapeño lime crema Hummus Beets Bowl AVANT GARDEN, Modern Love HONEYBEE’S, O MAHA, NEBRASKA & O REN’s HUMMUS LADYBIRD, MOTHER BROOKLYN, NEW YORK • Hummus • Orange zest OF PEARL, AND Author and television • Marinated beets • Cilantro NIGHT MUSIC personality Isa Chandra Moskowitz is famous for • Feta cheese • Balsamic reduction N EW YORK • Chopped walnuts her veganism, and her D EROSSI GLOBAL’s nine passion comes to life concepts center on liba- with “swanky vegan com- Veggie Vegan Burger tions, but several priori- fort food,” served in inti- tize produce-heavy plates mate surroundings in R ED ROBIN as a core focus, too. Take two Modern Love loca- • Veggie burger patty • Avocado Ladybird, a plant-based tions that are worlds • Shredded romaine • Bruschetta salsa tapas wine bar, or Mother apart—both figuratively lettuce of Pearl, a bar specializ- and literally. Whether at ing in tiki cocktails and the Omaha, Nebraska plant-based, Polynesian- shop or the original in The Berk inspired bites. Along with Brooklyn, New York, Avant Garden, Honey- Moskowitz’s offerings are en BaREBURGER h C bee’s, and Night Music, straightforward yet inven- T • Organic tempeh bacon • Red onions Derossi has built a solid tive, ranging from Swiss • Parmesan cheese • Tomatoes pack of guilt-free, health- Fondue to Chik’n Pot Pie • Avocado • Mayo forward venues for the to Chocolate Dipped (3) / True Food Ki C • Baby kale • Eight-grain toast perfect night out. Cannoli. iSToK 48 MAY 2020 FSRMAGAZINE.COM PLANT FORWARD THE BUTCHER’S DAUGHTER HQ: NEW YORK Back in 2012, before plant-forward became a hot industry term or photos of avocado toast were popping up on Instagram, The Butcher’s Daughter was serving veg-based cuisine. The “vegetable slaughter- house” hasn’t strayed from its early dedica- tion to creatively pre- pared produce, though it has developed four addi- tional locations, a celeb- rity fan base, and a major cool-girl reputation. Wagamama HQ: LONDON At the heart of Wagamama’s philoso- tions, often coming up with creative phy is the word “kaizen,” which means replacements for animal products. good change, or continuous improve- In 2019, the chain debuted the ment, in Japanese. Since its early days world’s first vegan soft-boiled egg in in London in 1992 and throughout its a new kokoro bowl. The Summer in a expansion into Boston and New York Bowl was added to the menu in 2019 (there are three Wagamamas in each and includes barbecue-glazed seitan, a city), the ramen chain has been practic- coconut and sriracha vegan egg, grilled LI E TTLE BE T TABLE ing kaizen through recipe innovation, shiitake mushrooms, and asparagus N EW YORK like putting more plants on the menu. over brown rice with edamame beans, “I think the plant movement, or the carrots, scallions, sweet amai sauce, With the vibrancy of the vegan movement, is coming on really sesame seeds, and lime. myriad veggies it serves fast in the U.S. We’ve had it in the U.K. This year, Wagamama followed reflected in the airy inte- for quite some time,” says Steve Man- its innovative egg with Asian Sticky riors of its four locations, gleshot, Wagamama’s global executive Vegan Ribs made from barbecue seitan Little Beet Table is noth- chef. “This is about having fresh Asian glazed in a spicy cherry sauce. A slew ing if not welcoming. The food that can excite people’s taste buds. of other tofu and veggie mains, sides, micro-chain opened in I want people smiling about the fact and desserts are also available, includ- New York in 2015 (one that we’ve got great food, not neces- ing the crispy, wok-fried Bang Bang year after its sister fast sarily vegan food. A lot of the ingredi- Cauliflower—a favorite of Mangleshot. casual, Little Beet) with a ents we use every day are vegetables, so “This cauliflower is absolutely familiar-yet-fresh menu, plant-based was a natural step for us.” superb, because we make the vegeta- think: crustless quiche While taste ultimately takes priority ble the hero of the dish,” he says. “Peo- a M with kale, caramelized over plants for the sake of plants, that ple who aren’t vegan come in for this a M shallot, comté, and water- doesn’t mean that Wagamama doesn’t because it just tastes so good. If a diner aga cress, as well as hearty e / W have some mean vegan options in its who isn’t vegan is trying our veggie L B Ta cavatelli with mushroom T roster of kokoro bowls, ramen, teppan- dishes, that’s when I know I’m winning Bolognese, lacinato kale, e B yaki, donburi, curries, and salads. The because that’s when I know we’ve suc- T Li TL ee and parmesan. brand goes beyond veggie incorpora- ceeded in making great food.” FSRMAGAZINE.COM MAY 2020 49 PLANT FORWARD VEDGE, V StREET, AVA GENE’S AND TUSK AND FANCY RaDISH PORTLAND, OREGON PHILADELphIA & WaSHINGTON, D.C. Zeroing in on “locally sourced, aggressively seasonal” cuisine, SUBMARINE HOSPITALITY houses Ava Gene’s, For chefs Rich Landau a Roman-inspired eatery underpinned by local ingredi- and Kate Jacoby, every ents, and Tusk, a Middle Eastern concept that changes vegetable is deserving of menus daily depending on what’s in season. Both out- a spotlight. at their first posts balance a cornucopia of fruit-and veggie dishes BaD HUNTER restaurant, Vedge, farm- with thoughtfully sourced meats, rather than building CHIcaGO to-table fare takes on their menus the other way around. new meaning with dishes You’ll find animal pro- like the Wood-Roasted teins at Bad Hunter but Carrot (pumpernickel, plant-forward options as an addition rather than crushed garbanzos, car- are far from an after- a foundation. As part of rot mustard, and car- thought. The authen- Chicago’s celebrated rot kraut) while V Street tic ramen bar builds veg- Heisler Hospitality group, proves that global small friendly broths, salads, the New American eat- plates can be rooted in small plates, mini tacos, ery offers a set of major- veggies as with the Ethi- and rice bowls, creating ity-vegetarian small and opian-inspired Charred JINYA RamEN BaR scratch-made dishes like medium plates, such as Berbere Broccoli (with HQ: LOS ANGELES the Flying Vegan Harvest Parsnip Pavé with black harissa hummus, cher- (vegan miso broth, soy truffle, carrot miso, and moula, and nigella).
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