The CIA-FSR Pla nt For wa rd Full-Service Watch List

At Tusk, are elevated with whipped feta, herb tehina, egg, seeds, and almonds.

By Rachel Pittman

46 May 2020 FSRMAGAZINE.com T he plant- What do we talk about when we talk about forward plant-forward?

The term doesn’t necessarily mean vegan, or even movement vegetarian. In fact, plant-forward dishes can include animal proteins. Those who eat a plant-forward diet—many of whom self-identify as flexitarians— is showing generally consume large amounts of fresh produce, whole , pulses, beans, and nuts but are not locked into an exclusively plant-based regimen. up in Per the Culinary Institute of america (CIa), plant- forward connotes “dietary and food system trans- formation that includes a whole range of health- kitchens ier, more sustainable approaches—from those that contain poultry, fish, dairy, and/or small amounts of meat to vegetarian and vegan offerings.” across the In reality, when we talk about plant-forward, we talk about a massive variety of diets, recipes, chefs, and restaurants. Vegan and vegetarian fare country. are part of it, but so too are dishes that creatively marry plants with smaller servings of animal protein. Through programs like Plant-Forward Kitchen (an Here are the education and digital initiative that presents strate- gies for reimagining menus and flavors) and events including the annual Global Plant-Forward Culinary concepts Summit, the CIa is helping chefs and restaurants integrate plant-rich dishes into their menus. Putting plant-forward into practice can look very taking different, depending on the restaurant. No Bones Beach Club offers parsnip-and-veggie “crab cakes,” veggie-rich Gjelina dresses up spigarello (an heirloom broccoli) with a crispy guanciale garnish, and Jajaja Mexicana serves vegan version of cantina fare, with several dining to the dishes doused in coconut queso. For all the vari- ety of dishes, these restaurants are connected by a commitment to give plants as much—if not more— next level. attention than other ingredients. as plant-forward cuisine reaches new heights, we sought to highlight restaurants at the fore-front of the movement through this inaugural CiA-FSR plAnt forwArd wAtCh list. Due to the sheer number of innovative concepts celebrating the ver-satility of plants, we limited the list to restaurants and restaurant groups with at least two locations. It is our hope that this report not only spotlights the operators doing it best but also inspires others to follow in their footsteps.

FSRMAGAZINE.com May 2020 47 Plant Forward

Veg in Vogue A s plant-forward dining grows in popularity across the U.S., it’s no longer just one-offs or indepen- dents crafting creative produce-heavy dishes. Big- ger chains have also jumped on the trend, and below are some of these brands’ most inventive plant-forward applications.

Veggie Satay Lettuce Wraps N ot Your Average Joe’s • Thai peanut noodles • Roasted peppers • Asian slaw • Onions True Food Kitchen • Marinated cucumbers • Sweet chili dipping HQ: Phoenix, Arizona sauce True Food Kitchen was built on the anti-inflammatory pyramid, which posits that a select variety of foods can Cauliflower Nachos counteract inflammation and improve overall health. The growing chain’s resulting menu spins animal pro- Pn u ch bowl Social teins and seasonal power plants, like beets and butter- • Corn tortilla chips • Cauliflower nut squash, into fresh, indulgent fare (e.g. squash pie • Creamy jack queso • Pickled onions with coconut whipped cream). • Jalapeños • Jalapeño lime crema

Hummus Beets Bowl Avant Garden, Modern Love Honeybee’s, O maha, Nebraska & O ren’s Hummus Ladybird, Mother Brooklyn, New York • Hummus • Orange zest of Pearl, and Author and television • Marinated beets • Cilantro Night Music personality Isa Chandra Moskowitz is famous for • Feta cheese • Balsamic reduction N ew York • Chopped walnuts her , and her D erossi Global’s nine passion comes to life concepts center on liba- with “swanky vegan com- Veggie Vegan Burger tions, but several priori- fort food,” served in inti- tize produce-heavy plates mate surroundings in R ed Robin as a core focus, too. Take two Modern Love loca- • patty • Avocado Ladybird, a plant-based tions that are worlds • Shredded romaine • Bruschetta salsa tapas wine bar, or Mother apart—both figuratively lettuce of Pearl, a bar specializ- and literally. Whether at ing in tiki cocktails and the Omaha, Nebraska plant-based, Polynesian- shop or the original in The Berk inspired bites. Along with Brooklyn, New York,

Avant Garden, Honey- Moskowitz’s offerings are en Bareburger h c bee’s, and Night Music, straightforward yet inven- t • Organic bacon • Red onions Derossi has built a solid tive, ranging from Swiss • Parmesan cheese • Tomatoes pack of guilt-free, health- Fondue to Chik’n Pot Pie

• Avocado • Mayo forward venues for the to Chocolate Dipped (3) / True Food Ki c

• Baby kale • Eight- toast perfect night out. Cannoli. iSTok

48 May 2020 FSRMAGAZINE.com Plant Forward

The Butcher’s Daughter HQ: New York

Back in 2012, before plant-forward became a hot industry term or photos of avocado toast were popping up on Instagram, The Butcher’s Daughter was serving veg-based cuisine. The “ slaughter- house” hasn’t strayed from its early dedica- tion to creatively pre- pared produce, though it has developed four addi- tional locations, a celeb- rity fan base, and a major cool-girl reputation. Wagamama HQ: London

At the heart of Wagamama’s philoso- tions, often coming up with creative phy is the word “kaizen,” which means replacements for animal products. good change, or continuous improve- In 2019, the chain debuted the ment, in Japanese. Since its early days world’s first vegan soft-boiled egg in in London in 1992 and throughout its a new kokoro bowl. The Summer in a expansion into Boston and New York Bowl was added to the menu in 2019 (there are three Wagamamas in each and includes barbecue-glazed seitan, a city), the ramen chain has been practic- coconut and sriracha vegan egg, grilled Litle t e Be t Table ing kaizen through recipe innovation, shiitake mushrooms, and asparagus N ew York like putting more plants on the menu. over brown rice with edamame beans, “I think the plant movement, or the carrots, scallions, sweet amai sauce, With the vibrancy of the vegan movement, is coming on really sesame seeds, and lime. myriad veggies it serves fast in the U.S. We’ve had it in the U.K. This year, Wagamama followed reflected in the airy inte- for quite some time,” says Steve Man- its innovative egg with Asian Sticky riors of its four locations, gleshot, Wagamama’s global executive Vegan Ribs made from barbecue seitan Little Beet Table is noth- chef. “This is about having fresh Asian glazed in a spicy cherry sauce. A slew ing if not welcoming. The food that can excite people’s taste buds. of other and veggie mains, sides, micro-chain opened in I want people smiling about the fact and desserts are also available, includ- New York in 2015 (one that we’ve got great food, not neces- ing the crispy, wok-fried Bang Bang year after its sister fast sarily vegan food. A lot of the ingredi- Cauliflower—a favorite of Mangleshot. casual, Little Beet) with a ents we use every day are vegetables, so “This cauliflower is absolutely familiar-yet-fresh menu, plant-based was a natural step for us.” superb, because we make the vegeta- think: crustless quiche While taste ultimately takes priority ble the hero of the dish,” he says. “Peo- a m with kale, caramelized over plants for the sake of plants, that ple who aren’t vegan come in for this a m shallot, comté, and water- doesn’t mean that Wagamama doesn’t because it just tastes so good. If a diner aga cress, as well as hearty e / W have some mean vegan options in its who isn’t vegan is trying our veggie l b

Ta cavatelli with mushroom

t roster of kokoro bowls, ramen, teppan- dishes, that’s when I know I’m winning Bolognese, lacinato kale, e B yaki, donburi, curries, and salads. The because that’s when I know we’ve suc- t

Litl ee and parmesan. brand goes beyond veggie incorpora- ceeded in making great food.”

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Vedge, V Street, Ava Gene’s and Tusk and Fancy Radish Portland, Oregon Philadelphia & Washington, D.C. Zeroing in on “locally sourced, aggressively seasonal” cuisine, Submarine Hospitality houses Ava Gene’s, For chefs Rich Landau a Roman-inspired eatery underpinned by local ingredi- and Kate Jacoby, every ents, and Tusk, a Middle Eastern concept that changes vegetable is deserving of menus daily depending on what’s in season. Both out- a spotlight. At their first posts balance a cornucopia of -and veggie dishes Bad Hunter restaurant, Vedge, farm- with thoughtfully sourced meats, rather than building Chicago to-table fare takes on their menus the other way around. new meaning with dishes You’ll find animal pro- like the Wood-Roasted teins at Bad Hunter but Carrot (pumpernickel, plant-forward options as an addition rather than crushed garbanzos, car- are far from an after- a foundation. As part of rot mustard, and car- thought. The authen- Chicago’s celebrated rot kraut) while V Street tic ramen bar builds veg- Heisler Hospitality group, proves that global small friendly broths, salads, the New American eat- plates can be rooted in small plates, mini tacos, ery offers a set of major- veggies as with the Ethi- and rice bowls, creating ity-vegetarian small and opian-inspired Charred Jinya Ramen Bar scratch-made dishes like medium plates, such as Berbere Broccoli (with HQ: Los Angeles the Flying Vegan Harvest Parsnip Pavé with black harissa hummus, cher- (vegan broth, soy truffle, carrot miso, and moula, and nigella). The While Jinya’s 30-plus meat, tofu, bean sprouts, ubriaco cheese. The couple’s D.C. outpost, domestic restau- broccolini, green and red whole roasted cauliflower Fancy Radish, brings clas- rants do serve ani- onions, corn, crispy gar- with sambal, ginger, and sics from the original two, mal proteins, herbi- lic, chili seasoning, and peanuts is one of the plus new dishes. vores needn’t despair; thick noodles). larger plates on offer.

Café Gratitude and Gracias Madre

HQ: Los Angeles er (2) mb e m e Aside from plants, being thankful is at the core of both Café Gratitude and Gracias Madre, the two concepts owned and operated by the plant-based restaurant group Love

Serve Remember. s Madre: Love Serve R ia c

“We’re a family business and, as a family, for the major- ra ity of our lives, our diet was plant-based, for human health, ude and G

the health of the planet, and the well-being of animals,” t i t

says cofounder Ryland ra é G Engelhart. “The origins f w / Ca

of Café Gratitude were in re

connecting to food as med- D lly ei er: R

icine and looking at what t we consume as the fuel for un our lives. It’s about a com-

passionate lifestyle.” en Bar / Bad H m Café Gratitude opened a a R y

its first location 15 years Jin

50 May 2020 FSRMAGAZINE.com Plant Forward

Zaytinya, China Chilcano, and Oyamel HQ: Washington, D.C. A World of Green As with fast casual Beefsteak, veggies play a major In reality, the plant-forward diet is nothing role in most ThinkFoodGroup concepts, thanks to the new. Throughout the centuries, the seasonal ingenuity of founder and legendary chef José Andrés. bounty of vegetables, , grains, nuts, and Inspired by the flavors ofG reece, Lebanon, and Turkey, more have been a cornerstone in all cultures. Zaytinya lets plants shine in vegetarian, seafood, meat, Oftentimes, plants comprised the majority of and poultry small plates. China Chilcano and Oyamel ancient diets with animal proteins serving as have a variety of veg-centric plates on offer; try trum- a garnish or smaller portions. Now renewed pet mushroom skewers with peewee potato and aji interest in produce-heavy diets has restau- panca at China Chilcano or protein-laden crispy Brus- rants going back to this foundation. sels sprouts with chile de arbol sauce, pumpkin seeds, Hakkasan, a global chain based in peanuts, and lime at Oyamel. London, centers its modern Chinese fare with fresh meatless ingredients, resulting in dishes like the Aubergine, Tofu, and Mushroom Clay- pot, served with chili and black bean sauce. abcV Several of chain Bawarchi Indian Cuisine’s signature biryanis (basmati rice with spices, New York veggies, or meats and a thick gravy) are veg- Housed inside an ABC Carpet & Home retail store, etarian, featuring marinated vegetables and abcV is a vegetarian café by chef Jean-Georges that sides of mirchi ka salan (curried chili pep- serves brunch, lunch, and dinner entirely free of ani- pers) and raita (a condiment made from salted mal proteins. The restaurant’s interior is airy, bright, and yogurt, vegetables, fruits, and herbs). modern—like its cuisine. The dinner menu is split into And, while ramen chain IPPUDO prides light and fresh (like green chickpea hummus); warm and itself on slow-simmered pork broths, Goma Q hot dishes, such as honeynut squash with tahini; noo- (cucumbers seasoned with a signature sesame dles and rice options; and . oil sauce) and IPPUDO Buns (steamed buns filled with eggplant and eringi mushrooms and served with a house-made spicy buns sauce) are also available for plant seekers. ago in California’s San Francisco Bay area. Now the eat- Taiwanese chain Din Tai Fung has won ery has four California locations and has become a health- fans the world over (including in the U.S.) with and-wellness mainstay, even garnering celebrity fans its selection of dumplings, potstickers, noo- (Jay-Z and Beyonce have been spotted eating at the estab- dles, and more. Although the menu has no lishment). Breakfast, lunch, dinner, dessert, and happy shortage of vegetarian options, fresh veg- hour menus are on offer, with produce-packed dishes fea- gies shine throughout all the dishes, as in the turing affirmation-styled names. For instance, guests can Shanghai Rice Cake, which is packed with cab- order the Brilliant Creamy Puttanesca Pasta with capers, bage, spinach, and rice ovalettes, and topped Kalamata olives, cashew sour cream, tomato confit, roasted with a garnish of shredded Kurobuta pork. red pepper walnut purée, and lacinato kale over pasta. In 2009 the owners added a second concept, Gracias Madre, to their collection. “We were inspired to do an organic, plant-based Mexican restaurant by some of the original recipes of families of some of our longstanding employees,” Engelhart says. “Gracias Madre means, ‘thank you, mother.’ Thank you Mother Earth, thank you to the mothers who have been feeding their families, thank you to [Our Lady of] Guada- lupe, who is almost a mother figure in Latin culture.” Gracias Madre’s two locations boast a menu of classics minus the animal products, from hearts of palm crab cakes to mushroom fajitas with cashew crema. Extensive mezcal ST ock i and tequila lists complete the cantina vibe.

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Jajaja Mexicana New York

Jajaja Mexicana might have the market cor- nered when it comes to Mexican street-food con- cepts that offer wholly vegan menus, exten- sive tequila and mez- cal lists, and a set of can- tina-inspired cocktails. Its trio of restaurants render clean versions of favorite cantina fare with produce components like shred- ded hearts of palm carni- tas and coconut queso. Matthew Kenney Cuisine (Double Zero, Plant Food + Wine, Bar Verde, and others) HQ: Los Angeles

Helmed by celebrity chef, author, educator, and namesake entrepreneur, Matthew Kenney Cuisine (MKC) isn’t your usual restaurant group. In fact, the company isn’t a restaurant group at all, but instead a lifestyle company that offers an interna- tional network of restaurants, education, products, and wellness opportunities with minimally processed, plant-forward cuisine at its crux. Paulie Gee’s “I felt intuitively it was the right way to go in my personal life. I hadn’t made the HQ: New York connection as to how I could apply that to my profession,” Kenney said of his con- version to plant-forward in the MKC film, Crafting the Future of Food, Part I. “Then Paul Giannone opened one night a friend invited me to dinner and told me he was taking me to a raw food the first Paulie Gee’s in restaurant. I felt like I could apply my culinary background to that kind of food to Brooklyn, New York’s really make a difference and do it in a new way.” hipster haven, Green- The French-trained chef now runs more than a dozen concepts across the U.S., point, in 2010 and quickly offering his veg-heavy spin on a wide variety of cuisines. earned critical acclaim. Take Double Zero, a six-location pizza eatery serving wood-fired vegan pies The charming, no-res- topped with a wonderfully colorful array of veggies. Or Plant Food + Wine, which ervations concept— has a store on each coast (one in New York and another in LA) and a menu of with locations in Colum- bright, plant-powered plates like the Raw Lasagne (tomato, marinara, pistachio bus, Ohio, Baltimore, pesto, and macadamia ricotta) and abalone mushrooms with kimchi, lentils, and Chicago, and sibling Italian vinaigrette. In a shift from Italian cuisine, there’s the two-outpost Bar counter-serve, Green- Verde, which offers zesty, New Mexican brunch, dinner, and drinks—think Spicy point’s Paulie Gee’s Slice Cauliflower Enchiladas and Broccoli Tamales doused with creamy, butternut queso. Shop—sports an exten- No type of cookery is off the table for MKC, as long as it has the freshest ingre- sive list of vegan slices s

dients at its core. topped with a multitude ee’ ie G “What we do is very simple. We source the best ingredients, which ideally are of veggies and non-dairy l

local and organic and grown without chemicals, in-season, and at their peak,” cheeses like house-made y / Pau Kenney said in Crafting the Future of Food, Part I. “Once you have the ingredients cashew ricotta in addi- w Kenne

and the tools, and you understand what your weapons are and you understand tion to the traditional ‘za he tt

what you’re holding in your hand, then you just dream.” with cheese aplenty. Ma

52 May 2020 FSRMAGAZINE.com Plant Forward

Bar Bombón Gjelina Neiman Marcus Philadelphia Los Angeles HQ: Dallas

Delightfully cheery and At Gjelina, there’s a long list of plant-forward dishes up This iconic department entirely vegan, Bar for grabs, including plates that treat animal proteins as store chain has a ros- Bombón serves made-to- a garnish rather than a main; enter braised spigarello ter of restaurants to sati- order, authentic Puerto with crispy guanciale and confit tomato. TheG jelina ate hungry shoppers, Rican brunch, lunch, din- Group’s other restaurants—Gjelina Take Away, fast and plant-forward is on ner, and drinks. The con- casual café Gjusta, and Izakaya-inspired eatery MTN— the menu. The Zodiac cept’s bright interiors make an impressive group, but none have quite the opened in the Dallas flag- match punchy favorites original rustic-yet-refined vibe ofG jelina. ship store in 1953 and the like the Cubano Club chain’s culinary creativ- Slider with blackened ity has been unstoppa- chik’n, smoked tempeh, ble ever since. The com- avocado, dill pickles, let- pany refreshed the menu tuce, tomato, and grain at more than 30 of its mustard aioli. U.S. restaurants in 2018, bringing plant-forward into the spotlight, and even opened an almost Nix fully vegetarian/vegan New York café in Beverly Hills.

Chef John Fraser’s Nix has made a name for itself with its Mediterra- Kismet nean-inspired vegan and Los Angeles vegetarian fare, becom- ing one of only three The Kismet family— New York City vegetar- No Bones Beach Club Kismet and fast casuals ian restaurants to earn a Kismet Falafel and Kismet HQ: Seattle Michelin star. The menu Rotisserie—is a trio of is divided into two sec- No Bones Beach Club spices up the plant-forward California-cool Mediter- tions: lighter eats, like scene with glam, beach hut–inspired restaurants that ranean eateries that take kabocha squash dump- are 100 percent vegan, tasty, and approachable. At out- veggies as seriously as lings, as well as heart- posts in Seattle, Portland, Oregon, and Chicago, clas- animal proteins. Dishes ier dishes, like mush- sics such as crab cakes find a home after receiving a like the harissa caulifower room galette with leeks, produce-powered makeover. (The crab cake solution toast and spiced carrots sheep’s milk cheese, and was fried, Chesapeake Bay–style parsnip and veggie with chickpeas coax out almond-sorrel cream. cakes with garlicky super sauce). rich, complex flavors.

Making the List In any field, identifying innovators and visionaries is far from an exact science. For this Watch List, we used the following questions as criteria: Is this concept significantly elevating fruits, vegetables, and other plant-based foods? Is it creating more choices around veg- centric options? At the same time, does it highlight the potential for meat and other animal proteins to be supporting players on the plate rather than always the stars? Does the restaurant leverage healthy, plant-forward traditions of world cuisines? Is the restaurant implementing at least a handful of the Menus of Change Principles of Healthy, Sustainable Menus? This list marks the second such partnership between The Culinary Institute of America and Food News Media and the first forFSR . lub Through this, we hope to shine a light on the many talented restaurants and chefs who have taken up the plant-forward cause in new, ch C a e unexpected, and, most importantly, delicious ways. ones B For more inspiration on the plant-forward kitchen, please visit www.plantforwardkitchen.org, www.menusofchange.org, and o B N www.plantforward50.com.

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