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In Cordova, Alaska, the Allure of New Terrain Attracts Experienced Skiers

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In Cordova, Alaska, the Allure of New Terrain Attracts Experienced Skiers In Cordova, Alaska, the allure of new terrain attracts PNH/SVERRE HJORNEVIK experienced skiers. 48 U N C H A R T E D TERRITORY With new terrain opening up across North America, it’s never been easier to taste adventure skiing in the backcountry. Here are five destinations where going astray is the whole point. Words: Megan Michelson ackcountry skiing means Bleaving the crowded lift lines and pricey day tickets of the resort and heading into uncharted territory. There’s no ski patrol, no chairlifts and no trail maps out here— so you have to be educated in avalanche awareness, bring the required safety gear and hire a guide to show you beyond the ropes. Your reward? Untracked powder; rugged, desolate wilderness; and a sense of accomplishment and adventure as you climb mountains on your own two skis. “Being in the mountains, hiking, and with no lift lines, no people—it’s the best,” says pro skier Michelle Parker. “You’ll be pushed to your physical capabilities, which is character building and a different kind of rush.” DAVE CAMARADAVE 50 ARAPAHOE BASIN COLORADO A recent expansion offers almost 500 acres of premium backcountry skiing. For this winter, though, the zone is opening up as hike-back inbounds terrain, so avalanche control work will be conducted here, making it safer than it’s ever been, but it’ll still have a backcountry- style, hike-out feel. To exit the zone, you’ll need to trek about 30 minutes back to the ski area’s Pallavicini lift. “You’ll have an opportunity to have a backcountry-like experience in a more controlled setting,” says Leigh Hierholzer, marketing director for Arapahoe Basin. “Ski patrol will manage this area more so than they have done in the past, and the hike-back trail will be a groomed path at the bottom of the terrain.” There’s no lodging at the base of Arapahoe Basin, so stay in the nearby town of Breckenridge, where you can score a bunk or a private room “You’ll have an opportunity to have a backcountry- fter a decade of planning and four like experience Ayears of environmental impact studies, Colorado’s in a more Arapahoe Basin ski area recently got approval for controlled a 468-acre expansion into setting.” a backcountry area just west LEIGH HIERHOLZER of the resort known as the Marketing director, Beavers—an open bowl that Arapahoe Basin funnels into perfect tree skiing—and Steep Gullies, which offers rocky chutes and with its own hot tub, plus elevator-shaft ravines. Last breakfast, at the Bivvi (bunks summer, the resort began from $75, private rooms from major glading to prep for $199; thebivvi.com). Head to a new chairlift that’ll be Rocky Mountain Underground installed next summer to on Breck’s Main Street for a make the Beavers lift-served ski shop attached to a tavern terrain by winter 2019. that opened in 2016. 51 CORDOVA ALASKA Affordable heli-access to remote areas and steak dinners? Sign us up. SVERRE HJORNEVIK “Since we’re continually finding new terrain, you may have the opportunity to ski first descents.” KEVIN QUINN Owner, Points North floors and equipped with propane heaters, with all meals included. By day you’ll be guided to the top of snow-slathered peaks, then drop 2,500 vertical feet of steep, Alaskan faces with views of Cordova Peak and Cordova Glacier—all for less than half the cost of traditional heli-skiing. “This gives people the opportunity to access the Chugach more affordably,” says Kevin Quinn, owner of Points North. “And since we’re continually finding new terrain, you may have the opportunity to ski first descents.” This trip is for experienced backcountry travelers, and you’ll need your own touring gear and some good powder skis. Back in Cordova after your trip, book a room at the n 2011, Points North You’ll spend six nights Reluctant Fisherman Inn (from Heli-Adventures, an sleeping in a deluxe $149; reluctantfisherman.com), IAlaskan heli-ski outfitter, backcountry camp in heavy- where you can enjoy Copper secured a nonmotorized-ski- duty nylon tents called Arctic River salmon with a view of touring permit from the U.S. Ovens, erected over plywood the Cordova Marina. Forest Service, the first permit of its kind in the Chugach Deluxe camping Mountains. In 2012, they accommodations with began offering guided tours to the best view of the this new territory, and they’re northern lights. currently at work trying to obtain hard-to-get permits for even more new terrain. Book their weeklong heli-access touring trip ($2,675; alaskaheliski.com), scheduled in March and April, and you’ll fly a helicopter to access this remote zone, but once you’re there, all your travel is human powered. 53 ROCHESTER VERMONT In the Northeast, dedicated locals are taking charge of opening new terrain. rand-new swaths of Rochester. With permission skiable backcountry from the Forest Service, Bterrain are opening up they’ve been thinning the in central Vermont’s Green Northeast’s signature densely Mountains, thanks to a crew packed trees to make trails of hard-working locals for ski touring. wielding chain saws. They’re On nearby Brandon Gap called the Rochester/ in Green Mountain National Randolph Area Sports Trail Forest, trail crews have been Alliance, a volunteer group working since late 2015 to formed several years ago by a build four skiable zones couple of backcountry skiers. accessed by two trailheads Known as RASTA, they’ve along the Long Trail corridor. been working with local trail Skin tracks are marked by builders and state and federal yellow signs, and the skiable agencies to do sanctioned zones, including 1,300-foot RASTA founders glading in Braintree Mountain drops through rolling Northeast—we’re aiming to Angus McCusker and Forest, a 1,500-acre formerly meadows and steep chutes, give locals and visitors a true Zac Freeman work private parcel of land that also have wooden trail signs. sense of the backcountry,” with local agencies to do sanctioned glading. spans four peaks near the “There are not a lot of says Angus McCusker, a BRIAN MOHR/EMBER PHOTOGRAPHY towns of Randolph and opportunities like this in the RASTA co-founder. “You can 54 THE RED BULLETIN Stay Warm, Stay Safe You can’t have a righteous backcountry adventure without the right gear. HELMET Anon’s lightest-weight BEACON Ortovox’s S1+ beacon, a top helmet, the Helo 2.0, tips the scales at avalanche transceiver, is trusted by a mere 370 grams, making it a perfect rescue professionals around the drive to the area like you choice for the backcountry. It has world. But it’s also surprisingly simple would to a ski resort, and “There are a cinching Boa system to customize to use. Open it to switch into search we’ll have map zones at the the fit and a magnetic snap so you can mode for rescues; close it to transmit not a lot of take the helmet off without removing a signal in case you’re buried in a trailhead, but then you’re on your gloves. $140; burton.com slide. $490; ortovox.com your own.” opportunities HEADLAMP For patrol missions JACKET The North Face’s new Ventrix These brand-new ski- before sunrise, you’ll want a headlamp Hoodie has a light layer of synthetic touring zones aren’t patrolled, like this in the to shine light on the skin track. insulation but it’s also shockingly so enter at your own risk, or Pelican’s 2720 headlamp can be turned breathable when you start heating up Northeast— on with the wave of your hand, so you on a climb. Wear this water-resistant hire a guide from Killington don’t have to remove your glove to midlayer on its own on the way up and Mountain Guides (from $250; we’re aiming activate the light. $45; pelican.com under a shell once you reach the killingtonmountainguides. SHOVEL, PROBE Hopefully you’ll top. $220; thenorthface.com com) to take you into 100-plus to give locals never have to use them, but you do BACKPACK You need someplace to acres of private land or to the need to carry safety equipment with store your safety gear, plus food, water backside of Killington Resort and visitors you in case of an avalanche. We like and an extra layer for the cold while Black Diamond’s Evac Shovel ($80), you’re out hunting powder. Salomon’s and they’ll rent you the gear. a true sense which can operate as both a hoe and QST 35 pack can carry skis and your In Rochester, you can sleep a standard shovel, and Quickdraw helmet on a bootpack, has an external, in a farmhouse built in 1825 of the Probe 280 ($70), an aluminum probe easy-access sleeve for your shovel at Liberty Hill Farm (from that assembles in a flash. and probe and plenty of other blackdiamondequipment.com compartments. $200; salomon.com $139; libertyhillfarm.com), backcountry.” where gourmet, home-cooked ANGUS MCCUSKER meals are included. Co-founder, RASTA THE RED BULLETIN 55 SQUAW VALLEY CALIFORNIA At this resort, the terrain out of the gates is finally open for business. tarting last winter, Lake Tahoe–based SAlpenglow Expeditions began offering sanctioned backcountry tours (from $645; alpenglowexpeditions. com) into Tram Ridge, an expansive, varied zone below Squaw Valley’s tram, and National Geographic Bowl, a steep, powder-stuffed face with 1,500-vertical-foot runs on the backside of the area’s Granite Peak. “Nat Geo Bowl is truly some of the best terrain in Tahoe,” says Adrian Ballinger, owner and lead guide of Alpenglow Expeditions.
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