In Cordova, Alaska, the allure of new

terrain attracts PNH/SVERRE HJORNEVIK experienced skiers.

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With new terrain opening up across North America, it’s never been easier to taste adventure in the backcountry. Here are five destinations where going astray is the whole point.

Words: Megan Michelson ackcountry skiing means Bleaving the crowded lift lines and pricey day tickets of the resort and heading into uncharted territory. There’s no patrol, no and no trail maps out here— so you have to be educated in avalanche awareness, bring the required safety gear and hire a guide to show you beyond the ropes. Your reward? Untracked powder; rugged, desolate wilderness; and a sense of accomplishment and adventure as you climb mountains on your own two . “Being in the mountains, , and with no lift lines, no people—it’s the best,” says pro skier Michelle Parker. “You’ll be pushed to your physical capabilities, which is character building and a different kind of rush.” DAVE CAMARADAVE

50 ARAPAHOE BASIN COLORADO A recent expansion offers almost 500 acres of premium . For this winter, though, the zone is opening up as hike-back inbounds terrain, so avalanche control work will be conducted here, making it safer than it’s ever been, but it’ll still have a backcountry- style, hike-out feel. To exit the zone, you’ll need to trek about 30 minutes back to the ski area’s Pallavicini lift. “You’ll have an opportunity to have a backcountry-like experience in a more controlled setting,” says Leigh Hierholzer, marketing director for Arapahoe Basin. “Ski patrol will manage this area more so than they have done in the past, and the hike-back trail will be a groomed path at the bottom of the terrain.” There’s no lodging at the base of Arapahoe Basin, so stay in the nearby town of Breckenridge, where you can score a bunk or a private room “You’ll have an opportunity to have a backcountry- fter a decade of planning and four like experience Ayears of environmental impact studies, Colorado’s in a more Arapahoe Basin ski area recently got approval for controlled a 468-acre expansion into setting.” a backcountry area just west LEIGH HIERHOLZER of the resort known as the Marketing director, Beavers—an open bowl that Arapahoe Basin funnels into perfect tree skiing—and Steep Gullies, which offers rocky chutes and with its own hot tub, plus elevator-shaft ravines. Last breakfast, at the Bivvi (bunks summer, the resort began from $75, private rooms from major glading to prep for $199; thebivvi.com). Head to a new that’ll be Rocky Mountain Underground installed next summer to on Breck’s Main Street for a make the Beavers lift-served ski shop attached to a tavern terrain by winter 2019. that opened in 2016.

51 CORDOVA ALASKA Affordable heli-access to remote areas and steak dinners? Sign us up. SVERRE HJORNEVIK “Since we’re continually finding new terrain, you may have the opportunity to ski first descents.” KEVIN QUINN Owner, Points North

floors and equipped with propane heaters, with all meals included. By day you’ll be guided to the top of snow-slathered peaks, then drop 2,500 vertical feet of steep, Alaskan faces with views of Cordova Peak and Cordova Glacier—all for less than half the cost of traditional heli-skiing. “This gives people the opportunity to access the Chugach more affordably,” says Kevin Quinn, owner of Points North. “And since we’re continually finding new terrain, you may have the opportunity to ski first descents.” This trip is for experienced backcountry travelers, and you’ll need your own touring gear and some good powder skis. Back in Cordova after your trip, book a room at the n 2011, Points North You’ll spend six nights Reluctant Fisherman Inn (from Heli-Adventures, an sleeping in a deluxe $149; reluctantfisherman.com), IAlaskan heli-ski outfitter, backcountry camp in heavy- where you can enjoy Copper secured a nonmotorized-ski- duty nylon tents called Arctic River salmon with a view of touring permit from the U.S. Ovens, erected over plywood the Cordova Marina. Forest Service, the first permit of its kind in the Chugach Deluxe camping Mountains. In 2012, they accommodations with began offering guided tours to the best view of the this new territory, and they’re northern lights. currently at work trying to obtain hard-to-get permits for even more new terrain. Book their weeklong heli-access touring trip ($2,675; alaskaheliski.com), scheduled in March and April, and you’ll fly a helicopter to access this remote zone, but once you’re there, all your travel is human powered.

53 ROCHESTER VERMONT In the Northeast, dedicated locals are taking charge of opening new terrain.

rand-new swaths of Rochester. With permission skiable backcountry from the Forest Service, Bterrain are opening up they’ve been thinning the in central Vermont’s Green Northeast’s signature densely Mountains, thanks to a crew packed trees to make trails of hard-working locals for ski touring. wielding chain saws. They’re On nearby Brandon Gap called the Rochester/ in Green Mountain National Randolph Area Sports Trail Forest, trail crews have been Alliance, a volunteer group working since late 2015 to formed several years ago by a build four skiable zones couple of backcountry skiers. accessed by two trailheads Known as RASTA, they’ve along the Long Trail corridor. been working with local trail Skin tracks are marked by builders and state and federal yellow signs, and the skiable agencies to do sanctioned zones, including 1,300-foot RASTA founders glading in Braintree Mountain drops through rolling Northeast—we’re aiming to Angus McCusker and Forest, a 1,500-acre formerly meadows and steep chutes, give locals and visitors a true Zac Freeman work private parcel of land that also have wooden trail signs. sense of the backcountry,” with local agencies to do sanctioned glading.

spans four peaks near the “There are not a lot of says Angus McCusker, a BRIAN MOHR/EMBER PHOTOGRAPHY towns of Randolph and opportunities like this in the RASTA co-founder. “You can

54 THE RED BULLETIN Stay Warm, Stay Safe You can’t have a righteous backcountry adventure without the right gear.

HELMET Anon’s lightest-weight BEACON Ortovox’s S1+ beacon, a top helmet, the Helo 2.0, tips the scales at avalanche transceiver, is trusted by a mere 370 grams, making it a perfect rescue professionals around the drive to the area like you choice for the backcountry. It has world. But it’s also surprisingly simple would to a , and “There are a cinching Boa system to customize to use. Open it to switch into search we’ll have map zones at the the fit and a magnetic snap so you can mode for rescues; close it to transmit not a lot of take the helmet off without removing a signal in case you’re buried in a trailhead, but then you’re on your gloves. $140; burton.com slide. $490; ortovox.com your own.” opportunities HEADLAMP For patrol missions JACKET The North Face’s new Ventrix These brand-new ski- before sunrise, you’ll want a headlamp Hoodie has a light layer of synthetic touring zones aren’t patrolled, like this in the to shine light on the skin track. insulation but it’s also shockingly so enter at your own risk, or Pelican’s 2720 headlamp can be turned breathable when you start heating up Northeast— on with the wave of your hand, so you on a climb. Wear this water-resistant hire a guide from Killington don’t have to remove your glove to midlayer on its own on the way up and Mountain Guides (from $250; we’re aiming activate the light. $45; pelican.com under a shell once you reach the killingtonmountainguides. SHOVEL, PROBE Hopefully you’ll top. $220; thenorthface.com com) to take you into 100-plus to give locals never have to use them, but you do BACKPACK You need someplace to acres of private land or to the need to carry safety equipment with store your safety gear, plus food, water backside of Killington Resort and visitors you in case of an avalanche. We like and an extra layer for the cold while Black Diamond’s Evac Shovel ($80), you’re out hunting powder. Salomon’s and they’ll rent you the gear. a true sense which can operate as both a hoe and QST 35 pack can carry skis and your In Rochester, you can sleep a standard shovel, and Quickdraw helmet on a bootpack, has an external, in a farmhouse built in 1825 of the Probe 280 ($70), an aluminum probe easy-access sleeve for your shovel at Liberty Hill Farm (from that assembles in a flash. and probe and plenty of other blackdiamondequipment.com compartments. $200; salomon.com $139; libertyhillfarm.com), backcountry.” where gourmet, home-cooked ANGUS MCCUSKER meals are included. Co-founder, RASTA

THE RED BULLETIN 55 SQUAW VALLEY CALIFORNIA At this resort, the terrain out of the gates is finally open for business.

tarting last winter, Lake Tahoe–based SAlpenglow Expeditions began offering sanctioned backcountry tours (from $645; alpenglowexpeditions. com) into Tram Ridge, an expansive, varied zone below Squaw Valley’s tram, and National Geographic Bowl, a steep, powder-stuffed face with 1,500-vertical-foot runs on the backside of the area’s Granite Peak. “Nat Geo Bowl is truly some of the best terrain in Tahoe,” says Adrian Ballinger, owner and lead guide of Alpenglow Expeditions. “It’s incredibly big terrain. Before, it required an 8-mile hike to get out there and now we can reach it with a 15-minute bootpack from the lift.” The approval took nearly a decade of lobbying the U.S. Forest Service and seeking permission from Squaw Valley, but now, Alpenglow’s certified guides can lead you “Nat Geo Bowl is truly some of the best terrain in Tahoe. It’s safety gear—but you do need to be an expert skier or incredibly big snowboarder to tackle this terrain. terrain.” Book a fireplace suite at ADRIAN BALLINGER the Resort at Squaw Creek Owner and lead guide, Alpenglow Expeditions (from $209; destinationhotels. com/squawcreek) and you’ll have ski-in, ski-out access and into this terrain with help outdoor hot tubs with views from the resort’s chairlifts and of the valley. A new sushi tram, which means you barely restaurant, Suko Yama, and have to hike for your turns. an offshoot location of the No previous backcountry locals’ favorite Coffeebar

experience is necessary— both opened in the Squaw ALPENGLOW EXPEDITIONS they’ll loan you avalanche village in the past year.

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ALBERTA CANADA A new alpine hut means you can tackle an iconic traverse in comfort.

ntil last winter, if you The Louise and were planning to take Richard Guy Hut Uon the Bow-Yoho (below) sleeps 18. Traverse, the iconic multiday backcountry ski tour in Alberta, Canada, you had to powered by 12 solar panels, either spend a night in a snow on-site wind turbines and a cave or do a very long haul propane tank. It sleeps 18, between two existing alpine but be sure to bring your own huts. But when the new sleeping bag for this hut—and “state of the art” Louise every hut along the traverse. and Richard Guy Hut (from On the tour, you’ll negotiate $30; alpineclubofcanada.ca) a series of stunning ice fields opened last year, adventurers from Bow Lake to the Little suddenly had access to the Yoho Valley across the perfect midway overnight Continental Divide. Over accommodation. the course of six days, you’ll “The Guy Hut was the cover about 36 miles and missing piece,” says Keith climb more than 7,000 Haberl, communications vertical feet. Each day offers manager for the Alpine Club spectacular views of the of Canada. “Before, there and wide- was always some worry— open powder bowls to ski. what’s a night in a snow cave Hire Yamnuska Mountain going to be like? Now the Adventures for a guided tour Bow-Yoho Traverse can be of the traverse (from $1,397; done comfortably.” yamnuska.com) and they’ll The hut, which is operated take care of all the logistics by the ACC and overlooks the and meal planning for you. Mont des Poilus glacier at an This trip isn’t for backcountry elevation of 8,480 feet, is newbies, but Yamnuska and Canmore’s Gear Up Mountain Sports rent alpine touring “Before, there gear and avalanche safety equipment if you need it. was always Start and end your trip in the town of Canmore. Stay at some worry the five-room Paintbox Lodge —what’s a (from $117; paintboxlodge. com), which is owned by two night in a snow former Olympic skiers and offers free hot breakfasts, cave going to kitchen parties and live music. Don’t miss the Communitea be like?” Café, a community gathering KEITH HABERL space and health-conscious Communications manager, lunch spot serving big, Alpine Club of Canada

hearty salads and fancy NICHOLAS RAPAICH, CHRIS LAMOTHE, JIM HUEBNER grilled cheeses.

58 A New Kind of Après Ski Craft distilleries are popping up in mountain towns, offering après-ski cocktails that have serious edge. Here are our favorites.

VERDI LOCAL DISTILLERY Located off I-80 between Tahoe and the Reno airport, this place makes a garlic whiskey that’s great in a Bloody Mary. The owners built their distillery into a cozy, renovated house, where they host tasting events twice a month. verdilocaldistillery.com

LEOPOLD BROTHERS After shredding Colorado’s Front Range, head to the Denver tasting room of this family-owned distillery for small-batch whiskey or vodka or a how-to- make-your-own cocktails class. leopoldbros.com

PARK DISTILLERY This award-winning spot in Banff, Alberta, produces glacier-fed spirits, including dry gin and vanilla vodka, and has an on-site restaurant featuring cocktails named after Banff National Park’s surrounding peaks. parkdistillery.com

ANCHORAGE DISTILLERY On your way through Anchorage, make a pit stop here for a taste of Glacier Melt Vodka or Arctic Ice Moonshine Whiskey. All of their spirits come from Alaskan- grown grains and are distilled with the state’s abundant glacier water. anchoragedistillery.com

STONECUTTER SPIRITS In Vermont, make a stop at Stonecutters Spirits, in the college town of Middlebury, for a shuffleboard- equipped bar that’s open four days a week and serves up tasty cocktails featuring barrel-aged whiskey and gin. stonecutterspirits.com

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