The Land Beyond Poi When in Hawaii, Eat Like the Locals Do

Home , Loco moco, Plate lunch, Ribs (food), Side dish

User: jjenisch Time: 09-21-2009 09:37 Product: LATR PubDate: 09-20-2009 Zone: LA Edition: 1 Page: ADV_03 Color: CMYK

L8 SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 20, 2009 ADVERTISINGSUPPLEMENT HAWAII The Land Beyond Poi When in Hawaii, eat like the locals do

BY BEKAH WRIGHT culture. Think: Hawaii’s iconic Lanai and Blue Ginger Café. A American fusion cuisine in 1999 Special Advertising Sections Writer plate lunch with the mainstay definite stick-to-your-ribs when they learned that custom- two scoops of rice and a scoop breakfast is Canoes’ infamous ers jonesing for L&L barbecue or many visitors, “Hawai- of macaroni salad. Loco Moco, with two scoops of were scheduling Hawaiian vaca- ian food” means the ele- That’s the kind of satisfying rice, two hamburger patties, tions in part just to get a fix. Fgant regional cuisine simplicity that inspired this list two eggs, and pan-fried mush- One of the biggest sellers on the served in resort restaurants. of favorite home-style Hawaiian rooms and onions with a side of menu is the L&L Hawaiian BBQ Others say it’s traditional luau eats. Bring an appetite and try gravy and macaroni salad. mix plate that includes chicken, fare. But ask locals what Hawai- ’em all. Meat lovers will like the beef and short ribs. Another ian food means to them and breakfast bento at Canoes with go-to Hawaiian fave is chicken Loco Moco on Lanai chances are they’ll rave about its two pieces of Spam, two katsu: boneless chicken coated hole-in-the-wall gems serving Many Lanai residents start slices of bacon, two Portuguese with special seasonings and homespun comfort foods that their day at side-by-side diners sausages, two eggs and white deep-fried with a side of L&L’s reflect the islands’ melting pot on Seventh Street — Canoes rice. Lunch hour brings with it own secret sauce for dipping. another item popular with Ribs and rib-eyes on residents, Canoe’s furikake Molokai chicken, a battered, deep-fried dish flavored with dried sea- A green tin roof and cheery weed and other seasonings. yellow doors welcome visitors Many a diner has waxed po- to “Molokai’s Eating Landmark,” etic over the Blue Ginger Café’s otherwise known as the Kuala- French toast made from home- pu’u Cookhouse. At lunchtime, made bread. Protein fans at Blue tourists fresh from a mule ride Ginger, though, go for the is- in Kalaupapa National Historical land’s namesake omelet that’s Park take their cue from Molo- chock full of Portuguese sau- kai residents and order the sage, bacon and fried rice. At roast pork or chicken stir-fry. lunch, Blue Ginger patrons Dinner is a sophisticated clamor for another popular dish surprise with favorites like the — fried saimin (wheat and egg rib-eye steak with bacon-and- noodles), wok-fried with Spam, crab-wrapped shrimp or bar- green onions, scrambled eggs becue baby back ribs in home- and kamaboko, or fish cake. made guava sauce. Takeout, Kauai style Spam musubi and poke on Hawaii Though there’s some debate over the origin of the plate Just three miles outside the lunch, many believe it evolved airport is the Pine Tree Café — from the Japanese bento, a though visitors looking for pine single-portion take-home lunch. trees to mark the local hot spot Chef Mark Oyama has been will miss it. Instead, look for putting his personal spin on surfers making their way from Hawaii’s traditional plate lunch/ the adjacent Pine Trees Beach bento since 1999 when he for some post-beach grub. opened the first of his two Perfect for refueling are menu Steve Price, proprietor of Kualapu’u Cookhouse on Molokai. Kauai-based restaurants, both items like the mahi mahi deluxe aptly named Mark’s Place. Lo- burger or the oven-roasted cated in Lihue and Lawai, the kalua pig with a side of cabbage. takeout-only restaurants draw Looking deceptively like sushi is long lunch lines of locals and Spam musubi, a block of salted in-the-know tourists who belly rice topped by a slice of Spam up to the counter for multieth- and wrapped in nori, or dried nic dishes that favor regional seaweed. For sides, steamed ingredients. Try the Kona kam- rice joins the traditional maca- pachi and the grilled shutome roni salad, but with a twist: Pine with roasted corn and smoked Tree adds potatoes, tuna and shrimp relish. green peas to the mix. Another popular side dish — just perfect Barbecue and katsu on Oahu after a hot day at the beach — is Another purveyor of the poke, a ceviche-type mix of raw plate lunch, L&L Hawaiian Bar- ahi tuna in shoyu soy sauce. becue has been going strong Lau lau and kalua pork on since 1976. And talk about Maui popular. L&L has 180 locations Enjoy a few (thousand) care-free calories at Canoes Lanai with the in 10 states including 45 on Generous portions are a big plate lunches above (local-favorite Loco Moco is at bottom). Oahu alone. Founders Johnson part of the Hawaiian plate lunch, Kam and Eddie Flores Jr. de- but Da Kitchen’s Big Braddah kalua pork seasoned with Ha- tartar sauce and the kalbi ribs cided to branch out to the Combo takes things a step waiian salt; chicken long rice (a (teriyaki short ribs that necessi- mainland with their Asian/ further. It’s not uncommon to dish akin to a Hawaiian chicken tate some serious finger licking). see two patrons snacking on a noodle soup with ginger, green single serving of the hearty onion and rice noodles); as well Bekah Wright is a freelance plate, which offers two selec- as lomi salmon, a cold side dish writer based in Los Angeles. tions from a list that includes of raw diced salmon mixed with teriyaki chicken, teriyaki beef, tomatoes and Maui onions. chicken katsu and kalua pork. Don’t forget to order a side of Those looking for a moderately poi made from the native taro CUSTOM PUBLISHING sized meal can check out the plant. It’s perfect for pork dip- This page was edited and designed by the Custom Hawaiian plate, with pork ping. Other tempting dishes Publications staff of the Los Angeles Times. steamed in taro leaves (other- include the fish tempura, bat- For advertising inquiries, please call Leticia Lara at 213.237.3139 or wise known as pork lau lau); tered mahi mahi with Maui-style e-mail her at [email protected].

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