WEDNESDAY • JULY 17, 2013

PISTACHIO Recipe on E2

Sweet royalty

DessertofsultansreveredbySantee’s‘BaklavaKing’

ROXANA POPESCU • U-T

f you eat baklava with a fork, Jeff Ugur has news for you: You’re doing it wrong. Baklava is a finger food. This is crucial, because it helps with his next tasting tip. “Take the baklava with your hand and turn it over. Upside down,” he says. The fragrant ground nuts and imbibe the bottom layers of phyllo while the is baking and resting, and when you flip it over, the aromas hit your nose for a com- Iplete taste-scent symphony. “It starts with the nose,” Ugur says. Another benefit to the upside-down method: If it’s dusted with or other nuts, those land directly on your tongue. And for the finale, lick your fingers. “Maybe not at a state dinner, but if you’re with your friends, without making too many noises, it’s just a part of the whole eating experience of baklava.” If anyone should know proper baklava chomping procedures, it’s Ugur, who is also known as the Baklava King, thanks to the Santee by that name he runs with his good-humored Czech wife, Sarka,. About 10,000 flaky fly out of the ovens every week and land in cafes and restaurants across the country. They also make savory puffs filled with combinations of mozzarella, , spinach, cheese and herbs. A variety of baklava on display at the Baklava King SEE BAKLAVA • E2 bakery in Santee. HAYNE PALMOUR IV • U-T PHOTOS “It was always a passion. Baklava itself. You have to love to eat what you’re making. Otherwise, it’s just making a living.” Jeff Ugur co-owner of the Baklava King Jeff and Sarka Ugur are the co-owners of the Baklava King bakery, which produces about 10,000 pastries each week.

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Employee Makhbuze Bekirova prepares a batch of rolled bak- lava at the bakery in Santee. BAKLAVA •Kingusesjust sixingredients:phyllo,nuts, Co-owner Sarka Ugur checks on a tray of rolled baklava that’s been baking in the oven at the Bak- butter,sugar,lemon,water lava King bakery. HAYNE PALMOUR IV • U-T PHOTOS FROM E1 places, but because of the intri- American palate, in the hundred Baklava King’s 40 Layer Baklava You may have seen their - cacy of rolling phyllo dough by years or so since it was imported Makes 20 to 24 pieces filled rolls and triangles at Caffé hand, baklava is not traditionally by Greek immigrants. Calabria, Café Bassam, Luna regarded as a homemade desert. Sounding forlorn, Ugur FOR PASTRY Grill and The French Gourmet. “It’s a reward,” Ugur says. “Bak- recites the usual menu 1 package of unsalted thin phyllo Other wholesale clients are in lava is not something you eat fare: chocolate lava cake, apple dough Southern California, Colorado everysingleday.” pie, crème brûlée, . ¾ pound of ground raw unsalted and Florida. Retail customers By the time he was 10, he had “Most Americans have a nega- pistachios or can order online and pick up ranked the quality and style at tive opinion of baklava,” he says. ¾ pound (3 sticks?) melted un- trays at the bakery. all the “reputable baklava stores “You know why? The recipe salted butter Ugur’s dream? “To make bak- in ” and enjoyed sharing problem. People make baklava FOR SYRUP lava for a White House event that information with everyone overly sweet.” Along with corn Two tablespoons of lemon juice someday.” he met. “I was a baklava critic.” syrup, some use as a (or 1 tablespoon can be replaced sweetener, a faux pas. Diluted in with orange zest) “Most Americans have a negative hot water, honey loses its health 1½ cups filtered water (approxi- benefits and the honey’s quality mately) Jeff Ugur holds shelled pistachios, opinion of baklava. You know why? and origin is hard to control, 2 cups pure granulated sugar he says. Undiluted, it coats the (approximately; this can be ad- which are a key ingredient in mak- … People make baklava overly phyllo instead of penetrating it, justed to taste) ing the baklava. resulting in a sticky mess. sweet.” Jeff Ugur • co-owner, Baklava King Preheat oven to 350 degrees. (Temperature may need to be adjusted Baklava King uses just six ingre- as baklava bakes, to prevent burning.) Butter a 9-by-13-inch glass bak- dients: phyllo, nuts, butter, sugar, ing dish. One place you won’t see When he moved to the U.S. lemon and water. The butter has his sweets is a big-box store. for college, he was dumbstruck to be high quality, one that won’t Prepare the syrup: Over low heat boil sugar and water. Stir in lemon “Warehouse baklava,” Ugur that he couldn’t find his beloved release water while baking. The juice and set aside to cool. sneers, has a shelf life of four dessert anywhere. “There was an water for the syrup should be fil- Assemble the baklava: Cut phyllo in half, or as needed to fit inside months and uses processed obvious need for great baklava in tered for the best taste. They filter the baking dish. Working while the phyllo is soft, place 2 sheets and sweeteners like corn syrup. America,” he remembers think- it three times, but once is enough brush lightly with melted butter. Repeat 7 times. Sprinkle half of the Ugur, who has Turkish and ing, back in the 1980s. for the home baker. nuts across the top buttered sheet, in an even layer. Lay 2 pieces of Greek ancestors, grew up in Is- It was once the dessert of The syrup should be just phyllo, brush with melted butter. Repeat 3 times. Sprinkle the rest tanbul and discovered his calling sultans. Lore has it that the ver- sweet enough, not so cloying of the nuts. Cover with eight double layers of phyllo, alternating with atayoungage. sion known today was created by youhavetowashitdownwith melted butter. (Optional: reserve half a cup of nuts before splitting, to “It was always a passion. Bak- royal chefs at Istanbul’s Topkapi coffee to rescue your taste buds. sprinkle on top after baking.) lavaitself.Youhavetolovetoeat Palace. “Well cooked baklava Although coffee, preferably the Cut into triangles or squares and butter the top of the baklava. what you’re making. Otherwise, shines like gold,” one food web- inky, fragrant Turkish variety, is it’s just making a living,” he says. site states. Historic sources also a welcome touch. Bake for 30 minutes, or until golden, adjusting temperature as His mother, who is 90, used trace versions to ancient Greece, needed. to prepare trays for holidays, Byzantium, Mesopotamia, Turk- [email protected] Remove from oven and drizzle the syrup gently over every inch of to celebrate happy news or ish nomads, even China. But bak- (619) 797-6312 the pastry, while it’s still very hot. It should make a sizzling sound. Let when guests came from faraway lava has been a hard sell for the Twitter @roxanapopescu the ensemble rest for 1 to 2 hours. Serve after it has cooled.

Quick Corn and Green Sauté ED BLONZ Focus on Nutrition FRESH Makes 4 to 6 servings FROM E1 There is one golden rule 1 tablespoon oil THREE SALT TYPES VARY for cooking green beans: 1 pound green beans, ends trimmed Do not overcook them. 2 cups corn kernels, preferably fresh The zest and juice of 1 small lemon IN TASTE AND ADDITIVES Here are three easy ideas for fresh green A generous sprinkling of salt I have two questions. beans: ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes Q:First, what are the 1 differences in regular table ⁄3 cup fresh , chopped 1. Asian Stir-Fry: Stir-fry salt, sea salt and kosher green beans in oil, In a large skillet over medium-high heat, warm oil. Add salt and their effects on ginger and scallions, then green beans and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Add corn kernels the body? Second, is it true douse with soy sauce. and cook for 3 to 5 minutes, or until brown spots begin to that fruit should never be 2. Salad: Mix roasted or appear. Add the lemon zest, lemon juice, salt and crushed eaten with other foods, as steamed green beans with red pepper, and stir well. Add the fresh parsley, stir, and I’ve read? fresh tomatoes, mozzarella remove from heat. Serve hot or at room temperature. L.R., Pine Grove, LA. cheese and . Drizzle All three of the salts Variations: Butter can be substituted for ; also with a balsamic vinai- A:you mention are grette. basil, cilantro or mint are delicious alternatives to parsley. based on sodium chloride. 3. Bacon-Wrapped Green Regular (noniodized) table Beans: Wrap green beans San Diego food writer Susan Russo is the creator of the Food salt often contains an anti- in bacon and roast or broil Blogga website (foodblogga.blogspot.com) and the author of caking agent, such as cal- until browned and crisp. “The Encyclopedia of Sandwiches.” cium silicate and/or silicon dioxide. These agents are Table, kosher and sea salt. GETTY IMAGES harmless at the levels used and they do work to help and it often comes as coarse any requirement of the hu- CLICK AND WIN keep the salt from caking, crystals. It is not necessarily man body. FOR A CHANCE which can be annoying in a kosher product, but it can humid climates. be certified as kosher for Q:Could you give me TO SEE AN Sea salt is made from Passover use. The real ko- some nutritional infor- evaporated seawater and sher connection is that it’s a mation on dates and raisins? ADVANCE contains minerals naturally pure salt that can be used in Are they a good source of present in the water from the process by which other iron for vegetarians? SCREENING which it was harvested. foods can be made kosher. R.R., Sun City, Ariz. These minerals can add It is no better or worse than Raisins do contain OF subtle flavor characteristics any other form of table salt. A:some iron. One-half The to some foods, but these As for your second cup (packed) contains tend to be lost in larger question, our bodies are about 1.5 milligrams of iron. ToDoList dishes. The added flavors designed for a mixed diet. If you enjoy dried fruits, depend entirely on the sea The foods at a meal are you’ll find comparable iron where the salt comes from; handled in sequence by spe- in the same amount of figs GREAT if possible, do some sam- cific regions of the digestive or apricots. Dried peaches pling to see which one you system and there is no need are a winner here, as one PRIZES prefer. Sea salt may or may to refrain from eating fruit half cup contains just over WEEKLY. not contain an anticaking before, with, or after other 3.25 milligrams. It’s fun. agent; read the ingredients foods. Some people may find Other vegetarian sources statement to find out. that certain foods or food of iron include dark green It’s free. Kosher salt is made from combinations work better leafy vegetables, and Click & Win pure sodium chloride, usu- for them. This is more a other legumes, blackstrap ally without any additives, result of individuality than molasses, iron-fortified ce- at reals and enriched breads. You should have no problem satisfying your iron require- ments using foods alone, as opposed to supplements.

Ed Blonz, Ph.D., is a nutrition- UTCONTESTS.com al scientist based in Northern California. Questions about RATING: Rated R for pervasive strong crude and sexual content including graphic dialogue, drug and alcohol use and language – all involving teens. Passes are limited and will be distributed on a first come, first served basis while supplies last. No phone calls, please. Limit one pass code per person. Each pass code nutrition can be emailed to admits two. Seating is not guaranteed. Arrive Early. Screening is overbooked to ensure a full house. Theatre is not responsible for overbooking. This screening will be monitored for unauthorized recording. By attending you agree not to bring audio or video recording devices into the theatre. You must consent to a physical search of your him at UTfood@utsandiego. belongings and person. Any attempted use of recording devices will result in immediate removal from the theatre, forfeiture, and may subject you to criminal and civil liability. com or mailed to Ed Blonz, Focus on Nutrition, P.O. Box IN THEATERS JULY 26 7/31/13. 120191, San Diego, CA 92112- Thetodolistmovie.com facebook.com/thetodolistmovie @todolistmovie #thetodolist 0191.