The Trailwalker Magazine of the Friends of the Heysen Trail Issue 110 Summer 2009

Beyond the Heysen Trail Parachilna Gorge to Haddon Corner

The Great Aussie Long Weekend Outdoor Adventures with Kids

Nine Artists, Eight Days in the Landscape On The Heysen Trail Trailwalker Summer 2009 1 PRINT POST APPROVED PP565001/00079 ALPANA STATION

5km from Blinman in the Flinders Nungawurtina Hut & Trail Ranges, Alpana Station offers: An easy 2 day walk alternative for not-so- • A passenger transport service to active walkers... Wilpena, Blinman, Heysen Trail head for walkers (individuals or groups) Stay a night or two in a new replica pine & pug shepherd’s hut en-route from Alpana • Quality self-contained accommodation to the Blinman Pools and Angorichina for up to 14 people suitable for walkers, Tourist Village to be picked up and returned artists, nature groups etc to Alpana. • Ensuite bathroom facilities for OR caravans/campers 4WDrive:- Drive yourself or be transported to Nungawurtina Hut and experience a true • Bush camping areas Flinders retreat in a scenic and serene setting. Suitable for up to 6 people.

Contact Details David and Sally Henery Postal address: PO Box 11, Blinman SA 5730 Phone or fax: 08 8648 4626 Email: [email protected] Website: www.alpana-station.netfi rms.com Bookings Essential

PALLIN DEFLECTOR The Deflector Top is designed to keep you comfortable when you are out and about this summer. Made from Lightweight COOLMAX® knit to keep you dry and cool. Fantastic for warmer weather as it h el ps prot ect your skin from the harsh UV Rays. Fabric: Coolmax® Weight: Men’s 180gms Womens 140gms Size: Men’s Small – XL & Women’s 8 – 16 Colours: Men’s Fourleaf Clover/ Gunmetal & Blue / Gunmetal. Women’s Prune Purple / Gumnetal & Blue / Gunmetal Ring for a copy of our new Summer Catalogue 228 Rundle St. Ph: (08) 8232 3155 Fax: (08) 8232 3156 TOLL FREE: 1800 039 343 We offer 10% Discount to all Friends of the Heysen Trail Members. Published by the Friends of the Heysen Trail & Other Walking Trails Contents 10 Pitt Street, Adelaide SA 5000 Phone (08) 8212 6299 Fax (08) 8212 1930 Regular Features Web www.heysentrail.asn.au 5 Presidents’s Report Email [email protected] 5 Cover Burra Branch 6 New Members Phone (08) 8843 8115 Email [email protected] 6 Office Report 6 Walking Committee Report Membership Information 5 Maintenance Report Joining Fee $10 6 Single $20 per year 7 Brief News Family $30 per year 7 Burra Branch Report Organisations $50 per year 8 Walking SA Report Membership is valid from the 9 Trail Maintenance Sections date of payment until the end of the corresponding month in the 10 Pembroke Scouts following year. Heysen Trail Challenge Trailwalker Magazine 12 The Great South West Walk Views expressed in contributed articles A Solo Walk are those of the authors, and not necessarily those of the Friends of the Heysen Trail. 16 2008 Walk Programme 18 Beyond the Heysen Trail The Trailwalker magazine is 12 available by subscription or online at Parachilna Gorge to Haddon Corner www.heysentrail.asn.au/trailwalker 20 Walking in Tropical North Queensland The Trailwalker magazine is published Cairns & Port Douglas quarterly: • Autumn (March) • Winter (June) • Spring (September) • Summer (December) 20 The Trailwalker magazine has a 22 The Great Aussie Long Weekend distribution of 1200, and an estimated Outdoor Adventures with Kids readership of approximately twice that number.

Articles, reports and other submissions by members and other interested parties are welcome and should be 22 emailed to the Trailwalker Editor at [email protected] 24 The Heysen Trail Kapunda to . September 2008 The submission deadline is usually the first Friday of the month prior to the month of publication.

Advertising Rates

1/8 page vertical $40 per issue 24 1/4 page horizontal $60 per issue 1/4 page vertical $60 per issue 26 9 Artists, 8 Days in the Landscape 1/3 page vertical $70 per issue On The Heysen Trail 1/2 page $100 per issue Full Page $150 per issue 28 Inaugural Walk Rally Flyer (supplied for insertion) Trail Starter With a Difference $180 per issue 29 Walking the Bibbulmun Track Again A commitment for 12 months advertising, 26 Lightweight Hiking ie 4 issues, would attract 10% saving 30 Loop Walks on the Heysen Trail Advertising specifications and 31 Discounts Available to Members article submission guidelines are available upon request or by visiting www.heysentrail.asn.au/trailwalker About the Friends

Patron Honorary Members C. Warren Bonython AO Terry Lavender* Jim Crinion Council Members 2006/2007 Neville Southgate Robert Alcock Doug Leane Jim Alvey Fred Brooks David Beaton Sadie Leupold Simon Cameron Thelma Anderson Gavin Campbell Kath Palyga Jerry Foster Richard Schmitz Dana Florea Arthur Smith Julian Monfries Colin Edwards David Rattray Hugh Greenhill Cliff Walsh Jamie Shephard John Wilson Glen Dow Peter Wynen Barry Finn Dean Killmier Council Committee Chairmen John Wilson President Simon Cameron David Beaton Vice President Robert Alcock Jack Marcelis Treasurer John Wilson Julian Monfries Secretary Peter Wynen * (deceased) Finance & Audit Cliff Walsh Maintenance John Wilson Trailwalker Editor Walking Arrienne Wynen Jeremy Carter Office David Beaton Marketing & Membership Robert Alcock Membership Secretary Honorary Membership Bob Randall David Beaton Council Meeting Dates Office Coordinator Wed 17th December Jack Marcelis Wed 21st January Wed 18th February Maintenance Coordinator Gavin Campbell Burra Branch Chairmen President Arthur Simpson Bookkeepers Vice President Kate Greenhill Wen Gu Secretary Sally Fieldhouse Xun Wang (Michael) Maintenance Hugh Greenhill Jeanette Clarke Goyder Tourism Working Party rep Hugh Greenhill

Shop/Office Hours & Volunteers

Monday 10.30 - 2.30 Wednesday 10.30 - 2.30 Friday 10.30 - 4.30 Mike Parsons, Beverley Blanch, Jack Marcelis, Wendy Fox, Sandy Melbourne, Colin Edwards, Robyn Quinn, David Beaton, Anne Douglas, Gilbert Downs, Allan Jamie Shephard Elizabeth Rogers Wadham Saturday & Sunday Closed Tuesday 10.30 - 2.30 Thursday 10.30 - 2.30 Relief Staff David Rattray, Dawn Bon, Chris Casper, Chris Hanna, Jim Alvey, David Beaton, Jack Chris Porter Jim Alvey, Elfi Driscoll Marcelis

4 Trailwalker Summer 2009 Report President’s Report

Simon Cameron The Heysen Trail is a mysterious endeavour. Most walkers embark on its journey without really knowing where it leads. A bold red line on a map that tells little of its terrain or challenges. It twists and turns following routes surveyed over 100 years ago or creeks, ridges and animal paths.

Their names evoke a pioneer past, and vast lengths are wild and but briefly touched. As I have been re-walking the trail, places and points kindle memories of past walks and the people I walked it with. Front Cover Passing the Sugar Loaf just north of Kapunda, on a recent weekend, with its curious flag staff that remains an unsolved mystery, I was Marschall’s Hut connected with the past in one of those eerie moments that mark the passage of the days.

The Heysen trail is a remarkable journey and I never fail to be amazed by the founding vision and those who made it a reality. The trail was conceived as a life challenge through the landscape of , by walkers who loved that landscape. And falling in love with the Heysen Trail is the price you pay for the journey.

The founding vision was bold and The Friends of Heysen Trail has continued the tradition with our vision to make the trail world standard, making it available to all walkers seeking the extraordinary.

As part of that vision we help maintain the track to make it navigable and traversable and the effort is continuous in concert with the Department for Environment and Heritage. But we strive for more. For the Friends, the Heysen trail is a passion and not just a responsibility. We want to make it better. We want to provide water tanks, bring local towns into the Heysen community, provide a repository of information and bring the rich landscape heritage to life.

End-to-End 3 walked the sections I know this is a huge strain on our man power resources. I look at of the Heysen Trail from Kapunda the goals we set at the beginning of 2008, namely to start the water to Peters Hill, past Marschall’s tank construction, establish Heysen friendly town projects at Hawker Hut, on the weekend of October and Crystal Brook, and introduce online booking systems. All are on 25 and 26. hold because there aren’t enough project organisers. We need more Marschall’s Hut was originally built committee members in membership and marketing to take on the in the mid 1850s, and the current town promotions and we need more council members to join and hut is built with stones from the take on organising roles and run the projects. If you have the passion 5-room homestead ruins. Christian you can join by talking to any of the office holders listed in the Trail and Elise Marschall and their eight Walker. We have over a hundred active volunteers now, but the childen arrived in South Australia Heysen trail disappears beyond the horizon and is waiting for another in October of 1854 having left walker to fall in love with it. their home in Babow in present See you on the Trail. day Germany. Christian’s grave is in the adjacent cemetery.

The hut is available for overnight stays for hikers of the Heysen Trail and cyclists of the nearby loop trails of the Mawson Trail.

Trailwalker Summer 2009 5 Regular Reports

New Members The President and the Council Office Report would like to extend a warm welcome to the following members, who have joined the Friends since By Jack Marcelis the last edition of the Trailwalker, Office Coordinator and urge them to become involved in the voluntary, walking and social aspects of the Association. We welcome a new record of 46 new Special thanks to the office staff consequently welcome new office members for this term. members who did ‘that extra bit’ to staff for 2009 again. If you have spare help the office function smoothly time please give me a call. Berin Belchamber Peter Milnes while I was on a ‘walkabout’. Erika Belchamber Sue Pryor I am also pleased to report on a new A warm welcome to Anne Douglas Robert Francis David Pryor record 46 of new members this term. Esther Caprez Elizabeth Hugo our newest staff volunteer. It appears that the government’s Roger Dunn John Hugo Anne has taken a year sabbatical ‘walking is good for you’ message Peter Chisholm Hubert Tucker and Robert Alcock’s unstinting efforts Gabrielle Scherrer Anne Tucker from her usual teaching position and are having good results. Paul Keen Jenni Cranefield with all that spare time felt obliged Bonny Field David Cranefield to assist us walkers. I am grateful The Friends Office and Shop will be Ruth Keogh Gerry Loch for that, because although in my last closed from Friday 12 December Alan McNicol Anne Douglas letter I wrote we had a ‘full house’ 2008 and reopen on Monday 12th David Oliver Hilary Lineage some slippage has occurred and we January 2009. Richard Brooks Julian BiDez Patricia Cailes Graham Warren Pam O’Donnell Xianlin Song Stephen Barttrop Raelene Jacobi Heather Rowell Jan Harrison Beverley Shane Harrison Hedgman Paul Megson Walking Committee Ann Donaldson Susan Megson Alan McFall David Symonds Steven Yeend Anthony Marsh Hans Goldhofer Jillian Hands By Arrienne Wynen William Pick Walking Committee Chairperson

Well another walk season is This season has seen the End to Maintenance drawing to a close but there is End 3 group start their weekends Report always something happening in the away. Next season they will continue FOHT organisation that helps keep their journey along the Trail on the This maintenance report is to thank us in contact with the friends we first weekend of May, the second two of our long term maintainers, weekend in June and then back to have made during the season. Our Ralph Ollerenshaw and David the first weekend of each month. Beaton. Both of these section Wednesday Twilight walks have For those that have missed parts of leaders have helped maintain the commenced and all the details are the Trail we will be starting the End Trail for many years, long before I on the web. These are not strenuous to End 4 group on the 4th Sunday began to help and as such should walks, up to 2hrs long, with the of each month. So check the details be recognised for their contribution. option of a meal at the end. A great in the TrailWalker for the sections Without our maintenance crew the way to enjoy the summer nights, you have missed or would like Heysen Trail would fall into disrepair maintain some fitness and catch up to do again. and anyone who has walked any with friends. section of it would certainly be In February there will be a training appreciative of their work. The Planning for next season is under day for Walk Leaders and a day for sections maintained by these two practising your navigation. This will way with Innes National Park on the are to be maintained in the future by include map reading, compass and March Long Weekend, Burra on the Roger Dunn and friends as well as simple GPS use. All these events Tim James and friends, who will be June Long Weekend and The Great will be on the program and if they maintaining which section is yet to Ocean Walk in November 2009. interest you book through the office. be decided. Further information will be in the Enjoy your summer and we will see TrailWalker and in the office. you on a walk.

6 Trailwalker Summer 2009 Regular Reports

Brief News AUSTRALIA DAY BBQ 2009 AGM 5pm Monday 26th January The 2009 AGM will be on Friday 27th BBQ at Kingston Park under the trees March at 7.30pm at Woodville Lawn Bowling Club. BYO meat, salads, drinks & chairs. Letter to the Editor BBQ plate and table provided. No cost to attend. No booking required for the BBQ. Check the website for the walk time - it will arrive back for the 5pm BBQ. Hi, my name is Joshua Tremellen. I am 13 years old and I live in Stanthorpe in the state of Queensland. From August the 10th I walked the last100kms of the End-to-End 2 on the Heysen Trail with a group of people I had never Burra Branch met and with my parents. Everyone was very friendly to me even though I was much younger than everyone By Hugh Greenhill else. People kicked the footy with me and I learned how to kick an AFL ball properly for the 1st time. I really As it is coming close to end of the Marschalls Hut where we managed enjoyed talking to people and finding walking season it is time to reflect to escape the hitchhikers that had out about them and I loved having on our walks for the year and the travelled on our backs for most of someone to play computer games last Burra Branch report. The walk our walk. The small bush flies were with. The scenery was spectacular organised just out of Farrell Flat, the worst we had seen them for the and to walk with 40 or so people Reilly’s Gap to the Flagstaff is an year. We inspected the cemetery at made it much more interesting. The interesting area where we walk the base of the hill below the hut; walk was fairly difficult on some days through sheep folds of which there this is well worth investigating as and one day I got really tired and are still a few around the mid a lot of research has gone into the didn’t want to walk, that was until north. These date back to when the names, dates and ages of those someone wrote “Josh eats worms” in shepherds would yard the sheep for buried there. Afternoon tea with the dirt. I still haven’t found out who the night and then release them next scones, jam and cream at Allendale wrote it. The ‘drinks at the end of day to graze. North, kindly provided by Celia, was the day’ is what kept you motivated the highlight of the day. throughout the days. THANKS for the Instead of the planned weekend great walk everyone and I hope that at Bendleby station for our annual MUM and DAD will be bringing me camp we decided to camp out at back for more. Old Mt Bryan East School as a few of our members haven’t camped at the old school before. On the first day we walked through Tourilie Gorge and gave two snakes a wide berth as they went through and on the second day another walk just south of Tourilie Gorge, we did inspect old diggings in the area of quartz rock reefs that are exposed, this not far off the Heysen Trail. A return walk At Marschall’s Hut (L to R) Meredith back through small creek lines and Mayr, Hilda van Beusichem, Herman picking a course around the hills so Mayr, Celia Manning, Kate Greenhill, we didn’t have to walk up and down Peter van Beusichem, Horrie Mill. several gullies before getting back Photo taken by Hugh Greenhill Joshua Tremellen at Parachilna Gorge to the vehicle. The walk from Burra Gorge to Burra along the Heysen Trail was one of best-attended walks for the year. Our end of year break up will be Next Issue Deadline held on Saturday November 8 at The last planned walk for the Burra the Gally’s Meeting House, home Submissions for the Autumn edition of Branch this year was Hamilton to of Sally and Garry Fieldhouse in the Trailwalker will close on 30 January. Peter’s Hill. Our lunch stop was Farrell Flat.

Trailwalker Summer 2009 7 Regular Reports The Walking Federation of South Australia, Inc. Walking SA

By Thelma Anderson Walking Access Committee

Heysen Trail at Glen Bold. Although Cherry Gardens Road via Marshall Road road reserves, in co-operation with the application by the adjoining to Laffertys Road where walking only Council, has been deferred for action landowner to purchase a section of access is available along the western during cooler weather conditions. The Long Gully Road has been rejected boundary, adjoining private property, proposal also refers to the publication by Mount Barker Council, there and following the fence-line in a of a leaflet to be made available is no certainty that DEH will re- southerly direction to join a walking for distribution to adjacent local locate the Heysen Trail along the track leading eventually to Clarendon. council districts as a tourism tool and original alignment. Nevertheless could be extended on a wider basis Kelly Road has become the subject of the indisputable support by the throughout the State. We would also a Road Process Order with numerous walking community and allied groups be interested to hear from a landowner objections being submitted to Council in ensuring the retention in public in the Myponga area who has made a following an infringement of an ownership of a valuable environmental similar request for a walking trail to be adjoining undeveloped public road asset is unquestionable and greatly identified on private property and to appreciated. reserve. Walking can still be available by following Piggott Range Road to examine the implications of that type of Onkaparinga Council. Members Lovick Road and walking along the proposal. of the Walking Access Committee marked horse trail to Clarendon. Recreational Rail Trail from Oakbank hold periodic meetings with officers to Woodside. In another item in the of Onkaparinga Council to discuss Scenic Road, Clarendon. Time did “Courier” we are advised that budget various issues affecting walking trails not permit discussion of this valuable estimates to build stage one of the trail and opportunities within that local recreational access, but its elevation to had almost quadrupled in the past four government district. At a recent a higher position on the next agenda years to more than $5m. meeting with Council staff, discussion of discussion items with Onkaparinga Council Director of Planning, Marc related to outstanding locations Council should enable clarification of Salver in commenting to a deputation including Woodcutters Road. The legal access to this public road. classification of this undeveloped road from the Adelaide Hills Rail Trail Adelaide Hills Council. Walking reserve for recreational purposes has Committee said “Council does not have access to provide an interesting loop been in contention with Horse SA the funding for it.” The item continues with the Botanic Garden, Piccadilly, following its identification as part of “The group is dedicated to seeing a Udys Road and the Drivers Road circuit the route of the Kidman (Horse) Trail. recreational walking, cycling and horse will be surveyed shortly to ensure Council members have been lobbied by riding trail established on the State continuity of access between these horse-riding interests for many years, Government owned, disused railway locations. The Drivers Road area was together with adjoining landowners, track between and Mount identified and marked by Walking SA most of them with opposing Pleasant. volunteers several years ago but it environmental interests. Walking continues to need constant vigilance to Official Opening of the 2009 Walking SA has sought walking access on a ensure its accessibility as a link to the This event will take place at sustainable basis offering to maintain Season. other adjacent areas. a Bush Care Site but it is not certain 1.00 p.m. on Sunday, 5 April, 2009. It will be held at Murray Recreation Park, that a walking trail will be included. A topic of discussion in the local Eden Valley and hosted by Walking SA Finally, Council has decided in favour newspaper “The Courier” features a in conjunction with S.A.R.T.I. (Lavender of the environment in order to ensure photograph of a Heysen Trail marker Federation Trail). All walking clubs and the retention of rare and endangered at the Deanery Reserve where the Trail individual walkers are urged to attend indigenous plant species and will apply follows the alignment of Cox Creek and support walking on this important to the Department for Environment and between Bridgewater and Arbury Park. day. It is guaranteed that an interesting Conservation for a Heritage Agreement The discussion refers to a councillor’s and varied programme of walks to protect the area. At the same concerns raised about dogs being will be available in this contrasting time Onkaparinga and neighbouring off leash in the area. “Council has Councils are examining adjoining areas deferred any decision about allowing environment of the Barossa Range to to provide safe recreational access for dogs off leash in sections of Deanery celebrate both the opening of the 2009 both horses and walkers to connect Reserve.” Walking Season and the progress of Ackland Hill Road with Belair National the late Terry Lavender’s initiative for Park. Other issues recently discussed Yankalilla Council. A proposal to construction of the Federation Trail related to walking access between identify a walking trail using local between Murray Bridge and Clare.

8 Trailwalker Summer 2009 Regular Reports Trail Maintenance Sections

The Heysen Trail is graciously maintenance by volunteers. If you discover a problem on the Heysen Trail, please contact the Friends of the Heysen Trail office, or the Maintenance Co-ordinator or relevant Maintenance Section Leader listed. We welcome feedback on the condition of the Heysen Trail, constructive suggestions on improvements that could be made, and general comments or enquiries about the Trail. Maintenance Co-ordinators Gavin Campbell 8296 8613 (H) Arthur Smith 8261 6746 (H) Maintenance Committee Chairman John Wilson 8356 9264 (H)

Section Map Section Leader Contact 1. Cape Jervis to Tapanappa Southern Guidebook, TBA Maps 1.1-1.3 2A. Tapanappa to Waitpinga Campground Southern Guidebook, TBA Maps 1.3-1.5 2B. Waitpinga Campground to Back Valley Rd Southern Guidebook, Geoffrey & Pamela Gardner 8552 5213 (H) Maps 1.5-2.2 3. Back Valley Road to Moon Hill Southern Guidebook, Michael Scott 0400 293 132 Maps 3 2.2-2.3 David Evans 8554 3551 (H) 4. Moon Hill to Hindmarsh Tiers Road Southern Guidebook, Hermann Schmidt 8344 4072 (H) Maps 2.3-2.5 (Wandergruppe Bushwalkers, German Association) 5. Hindmarsh Tiers Road to Blackfellows Southern Guidebook, Adrienne Fortanier 8556 5051 (H) Creek Road Maps 2.5-2.7 Eleanor Martin 8341 6024 (H) (Women in the Bush) 6. Blackfellows Creek Road to Glen Bold Southern Guidebook, Richard Webb 8381 5308 (H) Maps 2.7-3.2 7. Glen Bold to Piccadilly Southern Guidebook, Thelma Anderson 8278 4420 (H) Maps 3.2-3.4 Trevor Lee 8398 0516 (H) 8. Piccadilly to Norton Summit Southern Guidebook, Liz O’Shea 8352 1636 (H) Maps 3.4-3.4 (WEA Ramblers) 9. Norton Summit to Southern Guidebook, Graham O’Reilly 8397 1217 (H) Maps 3.5-3.7 10. Cudlee Creek to Bethany Southern Guidebook, Doug Leane 8443 3388 (H) Maps 3.7-4.4 Dave Curtiss 8264 0793 (H) John Potter 8337 9515 (H) 11. Bethany to Peters Hill Southern Guidebook, John Potter 8337 9515 (H) Maps 4.4-5.3 Dave Curtiss 8264 0793 (H) Joyce Heinjus 8525 2054 (H) 12. Peters Hill to Logans Gap Southern Guidebook, Norrie Hamilton 8332 1982 (H) Maps 5.3-5.9 13. Logans Gap to Spalding Southern Guidebook, Hugh Greenhill 8843 8115 (H) Maps 5.9-6.12 (Burra Branch) 14. Spalding to Georgetown Norhern Guidebook, Kevin Liddiard 8289 4236 (H) Maps 1.1-1.6 Gavin Bowden 15. Georgetown to Mt Remarkable Northern Guidebook, Mary Cameron 8165 1025 (H) Maps 1.6-2.11 Ian Pool (ARPA) 16. Mt Remarkable to Horrocks Pass Rd Northern Guidebook, Graham Hill 8632 4804 (H) Maps 2.11-3.4 17A. Horrocks Pass Rd to Dutchmans Stern Northern Guidebook, Ian Hartley 8641 1435 (H) Maps 3.4-4.1 Michael Kerin 8642 4728 (H) 17B. Dutchmans Stern to Wilpena Northern Guidebook, Gavin & Marie Campbell 8296 8613 (H) Maps 4.2-5.7 18. Wilpena to Parachilna Northern Guidebook, David Henery 8648 4626 (H) Maps 5.8-6.8 (Alpana Station)

Trailwalker Summer 2009 9 Heysen Trail Challenge Pembroke Scouts

Duncan Falconer, Scout Leader, Pembroke Scout Group Pembroke Scouts undertakes a variety of outdoor adventure-based activities, including bushwalking. 2008–The Year of the Scout has been no exception. We continue to record our trekking experiences, and in celebration of The Year of the Scout, we have recently launched the Pembroke Scouts Heysen Trail Challenge.

The challenge...to walk the length Trail. The map will be updated as of the Heysen Trail. To do this we go to show the sections we’ve in one go would of course take walked, and each scout’s name will over three months…our plan is to be recorded on the map showing the They’ve now walked record the various sections we walk sections they’ve walked. In recognition nearly 60km of and, a few years down the track, of their contribution towards our goal, complete the trail. the trail…still a each scout who completes a section long way to go To record our progress we’ve painted a of the trail, will be awarded a special floor to ceiling map of South Australia badge, which has been designed in the scout hall, showing the Heysen specifically for this challenge.

Scout Leaders Duncan Falconer and Tamra Sanders with Pembroke Scouts and their Heysen Trail map

10 Trailwalker Summer 2009 Pembroke Scouts

Deep Creek bushwalk, August 2008 Duncan, Jamie, Nicky and Katie in front of the map

On 23rd/24th August the scouts walked their second section of the trail, between Tapanappa campground at Deep Creek Conservation Park and Cape Jervis. They’ve now walked nearly 60km of the trail…still a long way to go, but we’re looking forward to many more great bushwalks on the Heysen Trail and in other areas in the years to come. • Pembroke Scouts on the trail at Deep Creek Conservation Park

Innes National Park

March Long Weekend Friday March 6 to Monday March 9 2009

Walks on Saturday, Sunday and Monday

Walk Leaders: Simon Cameron and Arrienne Wynen

Accommodation is dormitory style and available from Friday night. All meals will be supplied for Saturday, Sunday and breakfast and lunch on Monday. There will be supper available for those arriving Fri night but no dinner.

Cost $140 members and $180 for non-members

Limit of 20 walkers

Trailwalker Summer 2009 11 A Solo Walk The Great South West Walk

By Chris Finn Parks Victoria calls the Great South West Walk “A Symphony in Four Movements.” It has four distinct sections, each with their individual moods, but sharing an austere beauty, quiet, serene and solitary over its 250 kilometres.

Of course the solitary feel may have had something to do with my walking solo for 2 weeks. I did this walk solo last May. Inspired by a recent edition of the Trailwalker, I had just walked the Great Ocean Walk with my sister Penny, who sadly had to return to her job in Melbourne after an excellent weeks walking. Neither of us had tackled that many days walking previously, so we were both pleased to be able to complete a beautiful walk without too many problems. But now it was on to a bigger challenge, in the form of the GSWW.

Although walking solo, I was by no means alone. I had the great luxury of a one person support team in the shape of my wife, Karma. Frustratingly, Karma’s knee won’t let her walk more than an hour or two, so she volunteered to drop me off and collect me each day, turning Finished at Last! what might otherwise have been quite a took me 8 days, though it could easily new GPS proved largely superfluous. marathon into a series of day walks. Most enough be done a day or so quicker. The walk also features 16 designated mornings, she would walk in with me for After that, the walk follows the walk in campsites, with toilets, water, an hour or so before returning to the car. coastline back eastwards for what was a table and sometimes firewood as Then, each night she would meet me at 3 fairly long days of beach walking, well. I checked all the water tanks the agreed rendezvous and we would finishing with another 3 days around and without exception they all had repair to our tent or caravan park for the the ‘3 Capes’ leading back to Portland. water, although the usual cautions evening. Compared to having to carry about drinking untreated water apply. everything for several days myself - this Of course, it can be done in the opposite direction as well. Although I had no need to use the was luxury indeed! And, as the astute service, I understand the Friends of reader might guess, I now owe a great The track is very well marked and the GSWW can in some cases even deal to the heavy lifting in the garden! maintained. I had harboured some arrange food drops at these locations. initial concerns, as the strip maps But to the walk. A few basic facts to Access to the walk is very good, even available for this walk seemed a bit commence with. The walk commences without a 4wd. It took only a small rudimentary compared to those in the at the Portland Visitor Information amount of planning to identify access Heysen Trail books. However, I need Centre then heads northwards through points throughout the walk allowing it not have worried. In most sections, forest for a few days, eventually to be done as a series of day walks. reaching the upper regions of the the path was extremely easy to follow, Glenelg River. It then follows the river and there were only one or two spots First Movement - The Forest of Birds: west and south all way back to the in the entire fortnight where the The first stage of the walk is essentially coast at Nelson. Portland to Nelson direction was a little uncertain. My a forest walk, much of it through the

12 Trailwalker Summer 2009 Great South West Walk

Glenelg River Morning Mist

Just me and my bull ant holes. I only saw a few bull ants, but a little caution in siting ones footprints in the tent overnight might be worthwhile. sand as far as the There were other inhabitants of the bush about as well. Although it was eye can see in either May, there were still a couple of tiger direction, fading into snakes around. I suspect they were the sea haze at either somewhat slow moving this late in the season, but having grown up in the end of the beach... South East I gave them respect and a wide berth. Mostly, however, this wonderfully named Cobboboonnee was a gentle walk through a forest of Forest. After initially travelling east messmate, stringybark, banksia and along the coast from Portland the walk pockets of tree ferns in the boggier turns inland after a few kms, crossing sections. In a couple of places the the Princes Highway and heading Friends and volunteer helpers had north till it enters into the forest, not built some greatly appreciated bridges to emerge for several days. I’m usually across marshy sections such as Ralph’s a happy snapper whilst walking, but Bridge across the bog of the Surry in the forest the major delights are the River Gorge. Other notable points included the Jones Ridge escarpment, sounds. The weather was mostly low The Most Excellent Support Team cloud and light showers, with sunlight and the nearby Inkpot, with its waters black as night. only occasionally breaking through. Road to Cobboboonee Road, 15 km; Bird call echoed through the greenery, Daily Sections: Day Four: Cobboboonee Road to broken only by startled roos as they Heath Road, 17 km; Day Five: Heath fled thumping away from my intrusion. Day One: (Late start) Portland to Road to Moleside, 18 km. The grade was never more than gentle, Hamilton Road, about 15 km; Day the path was broad, though sometimes Two: Hamilton Road to Fish Holes Highlight: The bird song is hard to sandy and pockmarked with a million Road, 13.5 km; Day Three: Fish Holes beat, but there was lovely moment

Trailwalker Summer 2009 13 Great South West Walk

Sand Dunes at Swan Lake

for me late on day 4 as I approached other walkers for the entire trip, a enough for easy walking but there the meeting point on Heath Road. couple from Melbourne. were occasional times, especially when Counting down the last couple of the tide was up, where I had to walk hundred metres on my GPS, I was From Murrells onwards the views along the line of the first sand dune surprised and delighted to hear the opened out as promised and there to avoid the irregular attacks of the lovely Karma’s flute rippling beneath were frequent vistas over the broad waves. Every few minutes one would the forest canopy. What a superb way sweep of the Glenelg River and its rush 30 or 40 metres further up the to finish a day’s walk! limestone cliffs. For the last few kms beach than its fellows, eager to flood to Nelson fishing shacks dotted the the unwary. The waves were only a Second Movement - The Grand river banks. metre or so high but they reared up Glenelg River: Moleside is a beautiful Highlight? The river views were often abruptly, crashing and falling over campsite, where you get you first sight each other and vicious undertows in of the Glenelg River. It was 2 degrees majestic, but the clear winner was reaching Nelson and its excellent pub collisions of foaming brown sand water when I started out on the long stretch and seaweed. to Murrells, about 8am with the forest at 2:30. Why was that a highlight? wreathed in fog and the chill not at Because by 2:35 the rain was There is an inland alternative route all impeded by my gloves. But shortly absolutely bucketing down, which it on the third of these sections but it after 9 the sun was warm enough for continued to do for the next 36 hours. turns a 20 km walk into a 30 km one. me to discard a layer. There are only Even with a full set of wet weather I chose the shorter option and stayed occasional glimpses of the river in gear, I was glad to be out of that. on the beach, but it was a struggle the first day or so, but they become Day 6: Moleside to Murrells, 24 km; towards the end, where there was very more frequent and more spectacular Day 7: Murrells to North Nelson Road, little space between the water and the as one approaches Nelson. (Think 15.5 km; Day 8: North Nelson Road to steep slope of the dune as the tide of how Ravel’s Bolero builds.) The Nelson, 13.5 km. rose. There are some spectacular sand river campsites are superb. We based dunes inland, particularly around Swan ourselves for some days at Pritchard’s Third Movement - Discovery Bay: Lake, some of them seeming to rise camp and enjoyed two inquisitive After a days rest while it rained, I almost Sahara like 50 to 100 metres kangaroos, a rather rotund possum set out from Nelson following the upwards. Lake Mombeong was a pretty and some equally sociable ducks all slow curve of Discovery Bay, with campsite, and Bridgewater Lakes was doing their best to invite themselves about 60 km to cover over 3 days, the most scenic of all, but sadly lacking to our evening meal. It was very cold to Lake Mombeong, Swan lake and an actual campsite. Approaching at night and our sleeping bags seemed Bridgewater Lakes in turn. The closed the end of this section, windfarm to be at their limits. There were one or in solitude of the forest was exchanged turbines loomed up on the cape to two other campers, as well as some for the open solitude of a long slog the east, sometimes disappearing into schoolkids on a canoe trip. It was also back to the east following the empty a scudding shower then looming up on this section that I saw my only beach. The sand was generally hard again, Martian invaders from the War

14 Trailwalker Summer 2009 Great South West Walk of the Worlds. The marker indicating Ocean and crash onto the volcanic sections ‘Bill’s Walk’ in honour of the turn inland to Bridgewater Lakes shelves below, tossing spray high Bill Golding who, along with many has almost been swallowed up by the into the air. The path is quite close other volunteers, spent many years dune and is easy to miss. to the cliff edge in places, so a little working on track construction and caution is advised. After the Blowhole, maintenance. After 15 days, the walk Highlight - just me and my footprints and its eruptions of spray and foam, was over. in the sand as far as the eye can see the path passes the ‘petrified forest’ Highlight: Watching the seals at Cape in either direction, fading into the sea a formation of weathered calcite. Bridgewater whilst about 20 roos haze at either end of the beach. Then it loops around several smaller grazed a few feet away watching me. Day 9: Nelson to Lake Mombeong, bays till it reaches the tip of Cape 22km; Day 10: Lake Mombeong to Bridgewater with a seal colony far Day 12: The Blowhole to Shelley Swan Lake 16.5 km; Day 11: Swan below. After a few minutes watching Beach, 12 km; Day 13: Shelley Beach Lake to Bridgewater Lakes, and then the seals frolicking in the waves, I to Yellow Rock, 22 km; Day 14: (Half onto the Blowhole just for fun, 24 km. headed on eventually coming down day) Yellow Rock to Portland, 13 km. the hill to Bridgewater Bay with its Fourth Movement - Around the Three location to die for. The cafe was for All in all, this was a good walk. Capes: The last 3 days of the walk are sale, and for a moment Karma & I gave Compared to the Great Ocean Walk easily the most spectacular, following it serious thought. From Bridgewater it is perhaps a little less spectacular the coast around Capes Bridgewater Bay the walk loops slowly around to overall. Apart from the section along Discovery Bay, it is probably an easier and Nelson and finally, Cape Sir Cape Grant with its lighthouse (and walk, with less of the steep gradients William Grant. From Bridgewater lakes another cafe.) There are a few other found in parts of its shorter cousin. the trail rises to the limestone cliff highlights such as the ‘enchanted But more than anything else, it is a tops on the west of Cape Bridgewater, forest’ before the walk reaches the peaceful and quiet walk, especially passing above the little gem of last of the 3 capes and winds its way when done solo! Whites Beach as it heads towards the around the Portland smelter and back • Blowhole. There are long sweeping into town to the Visitor Information views back along Discovery Bay to Centre. The last few kms are perhaps the west. One after another, the deep a little anti-climactic, but a nice blue waves roll in from the Southern touch is the naming of one of the last

Discovery Bay

Trailwalker Summer 2009 15 2008/2009 Walk Programme 2008/2009 Summer Twilight Walk Programme 2009 Walk Season Programme for the Friends of the Heysen Trail Instructions December January February March April May June July August September October November • Styles have been set up for Sun May 3 InstructionsSun Jul 5 Sun Aug 2 Sun Sept 6 everything - object styles for Walk Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter , and paragraph Morialta • Styles have been set up Stirlingfor Kersbrook Mt Pleasant coloured boxes Wed Mar 4 Trail Sat June 6-

Wed Dec 3 Wed Jan 7 Wed Feb 4 Starter Sun April 5 Twilight Walk Lyn Wood Mon June 8 Liz Barry Mike Parsons Graham Parham styles for Walk text boxes Twilight Walk Twilight Walk Twilight Walk Opening of everything - object styles for Walk Glynburn Trip Away Marino – coastal Coromandel Valley Blackwood Walking Season Chris Porter Sat May 2- colouredCollinsville boxes, and paragraphSat July 4- Sat Aug 2- Sat Sept 6- Sat Oct 3- Sat Oct 31- • enter all walks, use object style No Robyn Quinn Robyn Quinn Liz Barry Eden Valley Sun May 3 stylesStation, for Walk Burra text boxesSun July 5 Sun Aug 3 Sun Sept 7 Mon Oct 5 Sun Nov 1 walk when no walks or only one walk

End-to-End 3 End-to-End 3 End-to-End 3 Father’s Day End-to-End 3 End-to-End 3 End-to-End 3 of month of month 1st Week 1st Week Trail Peters Hill to Worlds End to Wandallah to Summit Rd to EE George Rd to Curnow’s Hut to on a weekend Walker • enter all walks, use object style No June Long Weekend Webb Gap Rd Wandallah Summit Rd EE George Rd Weekend Long October Curnows Hut Lock Ruin walk when no walks or only one walk • Adjust green boxes to cover the 5th Sat Mar 7- Mon Mar 9 Sun May 10 Sun June 14 Sun Jul 12 Sun Aug 9 Sun Sept 13 Sun Oct 11 March Long Weekend on a weekend week when no 5th Sunday of the Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trip Away Scott Creek Kuitpo Ansteys Hill Warren Con Pk Sea to Summit Cox’s Scrub month. Use these green boxes to Wed Jan 14 Innes National Park Trail • Adjust green boxes to cover the 5th

Wed Dec 10 Wed Feb 11 Starter Twilight Walk Bob Gentle Mike Parsons Robert Alcock Robyn Quinn Part 2 of 2 Dot Farmer Twilight Walk Twilight Walk Simon Cameron week when no 5th Sunday of the display the Key and Logo Modbury – Dry Mt Osmond Linear Park Creek month.Sat JuneUse 14-these green boxes to Stella Van der Krogt Manuela Vida Wed Mar 11 Easter Sun May 10 Sun Jul 12 Sun Aug 9 Sun Sept 13 Sun Oct 11 • Update the Release date in the Robert Alcock Twilight Walk Trailwalker Sun June 15 Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker displayEnd-to-End the Key 3 and Logo bottom right Mother’s Day of month of month 2nd Week 2nd Week O’Halloran Hill Montacute Peters Hill Kaiserstuhl Deep Creek Para Wirra Sat Nov 7- Trail Webb Gap Rd Gavin Campbell Walker Richard Milosh Colin Edwards Ray Blight Ray Blight John Potter • Updateto Worlds the Release End date in the • to create a mono version on fi le, Sun Nov 15 Sun April 19 Sun May 17 bottom right when colour fi le is 100% fi nished, Sun June 21 Sun Jul 19 Sun Aug 16 Sun Sept 20 Sun Oct 18 Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Great Ocean Walk create a duplicated of the fi le, then Yurrebilla Trail• to create a mono version on fi le, Onkaparinga Onkaparinga Pooch Park Newland Head Athelstone Trail Rhonda Dempster/ Rhonda Dempster/ when colour fi le is 100% fi nished, delete the object style group called Wed Dec 17 Wed Jan 21 Wed Feb 18 Starter Robyn Quinn Nic Wait Chris Porter Robyn Quinn Mary Cartland Twilight Walk Twilight Walk Twilight Walk Lyn Woods Lyn Woods create a duplicated of the fi le, then Colour version (CMYK) - follow Mawson Lakes South Chambers Gully Sun June 21 Sun Jul 19 Sun April 19 Sun May 17 Sun Aug 16 Sun Sept 20 Sun Oct 18 prompts and replace each colour John Potter Rhonda Dempster Nic Waite deleteTrailwalker the object style groupTrailwalker called Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker object style with its Yurrebilla Trail Yurrebilla - follow Trail Mono version of month

of month Colour version (CMYK) 3rd Week 3rd Week Mount Compass Onkaparinga Mount Crawford Belair Waitpinga Trail Rhonda Dempster/ Rhonda Dempster/ (grayscale) object style equivalent Walker Richard Milosh Steve Wilkinson prompts and replace each colour John Potter Michelle Foster Steve Wilkinson Lyn Woods Lyn Woods object style with its Mono version • Final thing to do is to replace logo Sun May 24 (grayscale)Sun June object 28 styleSun equivalent Jul 26 Sun Aug 23 Sun Sept 27 Sun Oct 25 Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter with grayscale version - then fi le Horsnell Gully Belair Wistow Aldgate Mt Lofty/Cleland Anstey’s Hill is ready to included in Trailwalker Wed Feb 25 Trail • Final thing to do is to replace logo Twilight Walk Starter Arrienne Wynen Ralene Shaw Sandy Melbourne Gavin Campbell Colin Edwards Graham Parham magazine Lockleys with grayscale version - then fi le Linear Park Sun April 26 Sun May is readySun Juneto included 28 in TrailwalkerSun Jul 26 Sun Aug 23 Sun Sept 27 Sun Oct 25 Mike Parsons End-to-End 4 End-to-End 4 magazineEnd-to-End 4 End-to-End 4 End-to-End 4 End-to-End 4 End-to-End 4 of month of month 4th Week 4th Week Tapanappa to Waitpinga to

Trail Cape Jervis to Cobblers Hill to Balquhidder to Tugwell Rd to Inman Valley to

Walker Cobblers Hill Tapanappa Balquhidder Waitpinga Tugwell Road Inman Valley Myponga Anzac Day Long Weekend Anzac Day Long

Sun May 31 Sun Aug 30 Key to Walk Programme Sun Nov 29 The Friends of Trailstarter Trailstarter The Friends of More Details Walk Rally Walk Sturt Gorge Trail Starter walk Sea-to-Summit the Heysen Trail Trail the Heysen Trail Nic Wait Starter Nic Wait Part 1 of 2 An explanation of 10 Pitt Street Adelaide 5000 Trail Walker walk 10 Pitt Street Adelaide 5000 walk grades and End-to-End walk details for each walk Phone 08 8212 6299 Sun May 31 Sun Aug 30 Phone 08 8212 6299 event are published www.heysentrail.asn.au Trailwalker Other walk event Trailwalker www.heysentrail.asn.au of month of month 5th Week 5th Week on the website Warren/Hale Sea-to-Summit Trail An explanation of walk grades and details for This version released 24 November 2008 Walker Richard Milosh each walk event are published on the website Whole trail This version released 24 November 2008 (Fully booked)

Walk Grades There are five different grades of walk on the Friends of the Heysen Registering for Walks Trail walk programme. Four of these operate during the walk season, Red Range to Parachilna Gorge (6 hikes) Red Range to generally from April to November when it is not Fire Ban Season: You must register for a walk, either • Trail Starter online or over the phone.

• Trail Walker Sat Aug 9 to Sun 17 • Trail Rambler Register online (by Wed prior please) • End-to-End at www.heysentrail.asn.au, End-to-End 2 – When it is not walk season, generally during the summer Fire Ban or by phone the office on 8212 6299 Season, a fifth walk grade, Summer Twilight Walks, operate. (during the hours listed on page 3). Details of each walk grade are provided on the website.

16 Trailwalker Summer 2009 Walk Programme

2008/2009 Summer Twilight Walk Programme 2009 Walk Season Programme for the Friends of the Heysen Trail Instructions December January February March April May June July August September October November • Styles have been set up for Sun May 3 InstructionsSun Jul 5 Sun Aug 2 Sun Sept 6 everything - object styles for Walk Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter , and paragraph Morialta • Styles have been set up Stirlingfor Kersbrook Mt Pleasant coloured boxes Wed Mar 4 Trail Sat June 6-

Wed Dec 3 Wed Jan 7 Wed Feb 4 Starter Sun April 5 Twilight Walk Lyn Wood Mon June 8 Liz Barry Mike Parsons Graham Parham styles for Walk text boxes Twilight Walk Twilight Walk Twilight Walk Opening of everything - object styles for Walk Glynburn Trip Away Marino – coastal Coromandel Valley Blackwood Walking Season Chris Porter Sat May 2- colouredCollinsville boxes, and paragraphSat July 4- Sat Aug 2- Sat Sept 6- Sat Oct 3- Sat Oct 31- • enter all walks, use object style No Robyn Quinn Robyn Quinn Liz Barry Eden Valley Sun May 3 stylesStation, for Walk Burra text boxesSun July 5 Sun Aug 3 Sun Sept 7 Mon Oct 5 Sun Nov 1 walk when no walks or only one walk

End-to-End 3 End-to-End 3 End-to-End 3 Father’s Day End-to-End 3 End-to-End 3 End-to-End 3 of month of month 1st Week 1st Week Trail Peters Hill to Worlds End to Wandallah to Summit Rd to EE George Rd to Curnow’s Hut to on a weekend Walker • enter all walks, use object style No June Long Weekend Webb Gap Rd Wandallah Summit Rd EE George Rd Weekend Long October Curnows Hut Lock Ruin walk when no walks or only one walk • Adjust green boxes to cover the 5th Sat Mar 7- Mon Mar 9 Sun May 10 Sun June 14 Sun Jul 12 Sun Aug 9 Sun Sept 13 Sun Oct 11 March Long Weekend on a weekend week when no 5th Sunday of the Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trip Away Scott Creek Kuitpo Ansteys Hill Warren Con Pk Sea to Summit Cox’s Scrub month. Use these green boxes to Wed Jan 14 Innes National Park Trail • Adjust green boxes to cover the 5th

Wed Dec 10 Wed Feb 11 Starter Twilight Walk Bob Gentle Mike Parsons Robert Alcock Robyn Quinn Part 2 of 2 Dot Farmer Twilight Walk Twilight Walk Simon Cameron week when no 5th Sunday of the display the Key and Logo Modbury – Dry Mt Osmond Linear Park Creek month.Sat JuneUse 14-these green boxes to Stella Van der Krogt Manuela Vida Wed Mar 11 Easter Sun May 10 Sun Jul 12 Sun Aug 9 Sun Sept 13 Sun Oct 11 • Update the Release date in the Robert Alcock Twilight Walk Trailwalker Sun June 15 Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker displayEnd-to-End the Key 3 and Logo bottom right Mother’s Day of month of month 2nd Week 2nd Week O’Halloran Hill Montacute Peters Hill Kaiserstuhl Deep Creek Para Wirra Sat Nov 7- Trail Webb Gap Rd Gavin Campbell Walker Richard Milosh Colin Edwards Ray Blight Ray Blight John Potter • Updateto Worlds the Release End date in the • to create a mono version on fi le, Sun Nov 15 Sun April 19 Sun May 17 bottom right when colour fi le is 100% fi nished, Sun June 21 Sun Jul 19 Sun Aug 16 Sun Sept 20 Sun Oct 18 Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Great Ocean Walk create a duplicated of the fi le, then Yurrebilla Trail Yurrebilla Trail• to create a mono version on fi le, Onkaparinga Onkaparinga Pooch Park Newland Head Athelstone Trail Rhonda Dempster/ Rhonda Dempster/ when colour fi le is 100% fi nished, delete the object style group called Wed Dec 17 Wed Jan 21 Wed Feb 18 Starter Robyn Quinn Nic Wait Chris Porter Robyn Quinn Mary Cartland Twilight Walk Twilight Walk Twilight Walk Lyn Woods Lyn Woods create a duplicated of the fi le, then Colour version (CMYK) - follow Mawson Lakes South Chambers Gully Sun June 21 Sun Jul 19 Sun April 19 Sun May 17 Sun Aug 16 Sun Sept 20 Sun Oct 18 prompts and replace each colour John Potter Rhonda Dempster Nic Waite deleteTrailwalker the object style groupTrailwalker called Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker object style with its Yurrebilla Trail Yurrebilla - follow Trail Mono version of month of month Colour version (CMYK) 3rd Week 3rd Week Mount Compass Onkaparinga Mount Crawford Belair Waitpinga Trail Rhonda Dempster/ Rhonda Dempster/ (grayscale) object style equivalent Walker Richard Milosh Steve Wilkinson prompts and replace each colour John Potter Michelle Foster Steve Wilkinson Lyn Woods Lyn Woods object style with its Mono version • Final thing to do is to replace logo Sun May 24 (grayscale)Sun June object 28 styleSun equivalent Jul 26 Sun Aug 23 Sun Sept 27 Sun Oct 25 Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter with grayscale version - then fi le Horsnell Gully Belair Wistow Aldgate Mt Lofty/Cleland Anstey’s Hill is ready to included in Trailwalker Wed Feb 25 Trail • Final thing to do is to replace logo Twilight Walk Starter Arrienne Wynen Ralene Shaw Sandy Melbourne Gavin Campbell Colin Edwards Graham Parham magazine Lockleys with grayscale version - then fi le Linear Park Sun April 26 Sun May is readySun Juneto included 28 in TrailwalkerSun Jul 26 Sun Aug 23 Sun Sept 27 Sun Oct 25 Mike Parsons End-to-End 4 End-to-End 4 magazineEnd-to-End 4 End-to-End 4 End-to-End 4 End-to-End 4 End-to-End 4 of month of month 4th Week 4th Week Tapanappa to Waitpinga to

Trail Cape Jervis to Cobblers Hill to Balquhidder to Tugwell Rd to Inman Valley to

Walker Cobblers Hill Tapanappa Balquhidder Waitpinga Tugwell Road Inman Valley Myponga Anzac Day Long Weekend Anzac Day Long

Sun May 31 Sun Aug 30 Key to Walk Programme Sun Nov 29 The Friends of Trailstarter Trailstarter The Friends of More Details Walk Rally Walk Sturt Gorge Trail Starter walk Sea-to-Summit the Heysen Trail Trail the Heysen Trail Nic Wait Starter Nic Wait Part 1 of 2 An explanation of 10 Pitt Street Adelaide 5000 Trail Walker walk 10 Pitt Street Adelaide 5000 walk grades and End-to-End walk details for each walk Phone 08 8212 6299 Sun May 31 Sun Aug 30 Phone 08 8212 6299 event are published www.heysentrail.asn.au Trailwalker Other walk event Trailwalker www.heysentrail.asn.au of month of month 5th Week 5th Week on the website Warren/Hale Sea-to-Summit Trail An explanation of walk grades and details for This version released 24 November 2008 Walker Richard Milosh each walk event are published on the website Whole trail This version released 24 November 2008 (Fully booked)

Walk Cancellations Further Information Walks are cancelled if the broadcasted forecast is for temperatures over 32°C. For simplicity, this can be determined the night prior to Red Range to Parachilna Gorge (6 hikes) Red Range to the walk on the 7pm ABC evening news weather forecast, based upon For further information about the Bureau of Meteorology’s routine 4pm forecast. Even if the forecast each walk, walk grades, is later revised, the walk remains cancelled. End-to-End walks will be rescheduled to the following month. This doesn’t apply to Summer frequently asked questions Sat Aug 9 to Sun 17 Twilight Walks. or to print off a colour copy End-to-End 2 – If unforseen circumstances arise and you are no longer able to of the programme, visit participate in the walk, please notify the office as soon as possible, preferably by 4pm Friday, or leave a message on the answering machine (www.heysentrail.asn.au/walks) after this time.

Trailwalker Summer 2009 17 Parachilna Gorge to Haddon Corner Beyond the Heysen Trail

By Dudley Cockington After completing the Heysen Trail a group of eight walkers continued beyond Parachilna Gorge. We walked through the upper Flinders along Warrawena, Hamilton Creek to Terrapina water hole, climbed over Mt Babbage, across the Stony Dessert plains to Mt Hopeless.

We followed the Strzelecki Creek across the Strzelecki Desert to Innamincka. We were fortunate to walk this section after rains when the sand dunes were ablaze with wild flowers and birds. From Innamincka we walked along Cooper Creek to the famous Burke and Wills Dig Tree.

By May 2008, only

two of the original Back: Neville Sharley, Des Barnet walkers reached back-up vehicles as previously as we (back-up drivers). Front: Thelma encountered running creeks and dry Anderson, Dudley Cockington (walkers) Haddon Corner creeks, sandy hills and stony deserts. On two different occasions north of Cooper Creek we were flooded out by NT QLD Haddon By this stage our group was depleted heavy rains. The first time we waited Corner but a few of us continued up along a couple of days then continued our the SA/Queensland border for nearly journey. The second occasion there 200 kilometres to Haddon Corner, the was an enormous storm and after north-eastern tip of our state. During waiting 48 hours we aborted the trip to Innamincka

QLD this section it was just as hard for the try again later.

Mt Hopeless

NSW Parachilna Gorge

Cape VIC Burke & Wills’ Dig Tree Jervis Colin Beer, Gail Rees, Dudley Cockington (walkers)

18 Trailwalker Summer 2009 Beyond the Heysen Trail

Summit of Mt Hopeless - Gail Rees, Colin Beer, Thelma Anderson (walkers)

By 20th May, 2008, only two of the reliable vehicles. Thanks also to original walkers reached Haddon our supporting walkers who us Corner. They were Gail Rees through various sections. They are and myself. Colin Beer, Thelma Anderson, Ron Robinson, Fay Harding, Joan Beer, Ann It would have been impossible Hammond, Barbara Rundle, Joan Willis to complete this journey without and Fran Lucas. • our experienced and capable back-up drivers, Neville Sharley and Des Barnett, with their ever- Haddon Corner - Dudley Cockington, Gail Rees (walkers) Suppliers of Equipment for: Bushwalking Daywalking Trekking Travel Canoeing Caving Rock Climbing Canyoning Rope Access 192 Rundle Street Adelaide SA 5000 Friends of the Heysen Trail P: 8223 5544 F: 8223 5347 members receive E: [email protected] 10% Discount Excludes Sale Items, Canoes, GPS and EPIRBs

Trailwalker Summer 2009 19 Cairns & Port Douglas Walking in Tropical North Queensland

By Gavin Campbell Again I was walking past Flight Centre at Marion and there, advertised in the window, was a bargain trip to Port Douglas, so after some marital discussion and some negotiation we were off in October for 2 nights in Cairns and 4 in Port Douglas.

I would have to put my birthday Australian and United States war ships, celebrations on hold but I intended so their size can be imagined. While this birthday’s celebrations to go on for walking around the garden we came three months anyway, so what the heck. across an outdoor restaurant similar to the one in Adelaide’s Botanic Garden, We arrived in Cairns late at night however this one was tropical and the but in the light of the next day we ambiance was magnificent. discovered we had a room with a view, overlooking the foreshore, so that was After lunch we walked back through pretty good. Some time ago I bought the Gardens and on to the Cairns CBD a book “1001 Gardens To See Before through the suburbs to look at the You Die” and the Cairns Botanic Garden gardens. The overall walk turned out Marie at the base of strangler fig - was mentioned. It was within walking to be a long one, but not too far for Mossman Gorge distance of our room so off we went. seasoned Heysen Trail walkers like us For those of you who haven’t seen it, it (I think). My legs felt as though they to Brighton with a group of friends on is certainly worth a visit and a must if had walked over 20 kms. I love the Saturday mornings so, as there was you want to get a feel for tropical plants tropics and the gardens they offer to the a lap pool on the premises I thought and flowers. The garden is in two parts, extent that a section of my own garden why not do it here. I swam sufficient one part tropical palms and trees, the has been given over to try and create laps in this 30 metre pool that others other flowers. We spent several hours a tropical feel. I must mention that I insisted was 25 metre, to make up the walking around with some time spent purchased yet another tropical shirt, distance of 1.6Km. (I didn’t measure it walking through several old concrete much to Marie’s disgust. That evening because I felt a little lazy, so allowing tanks that have been cut up to make an we walked along the foreshore and had my judgement to rule) The down side art gallery. The tanks were fuel storage dinner in a small restaurant overlooking was, I picked up a bug that caused me tanks dating from the Second World the tidal flats and the ocean. grief later on in the week especially for War and were used to refuel both my next End to End 3 walk (Bad luck The next day we drove to Port Douglas. about the birthday cake you all missed On the way we stopped off at Kuranda out on.) That afternoon we went to where there is a jungle boardwalk Mossman Gorge for a walk. (It gets which encompasses treetop, middle a mention in my book “1001 Natural level and forest floor walking. The Wonders To See Before You Die”) It is walk goes between the town and the a must do walk and is pretty easy but scenic railway station and is a must do. beautiful. That night we had dinner at Kuranda is a little tourist town adjacent the Port Douglas Yacht Club where to the Barron Falls which can be seen there was a 60’s, 70’s and 80’s dance from the boardwalk. After this we drove held. What a night, what a birthday. through the sugar cane fields and along the spectacular coast to Port Douglas. Sunday was our trip to the Daintree, again a must do. As part of my walking Our digs were to be one of the houses fanaticism I get the periodical “Great in which Christopher Skase housed Walks - The Fresh Air Magazine”. After his workers while they built his Mirage scouring each edition I found in the Resort. They are in the process of being June-July 2008 edition a walk described renovated and as a result it was pretty as ‘the Bushbash bustle- the Mount good accommodation. The next day Sorrow Ridgeway Trail in Daintree NP was Saturday and my birthday. It is my offers a real workout for adventurous Flowers - Cairns Botanic Garden usual practice to swim from Seacliff walkers’. Marie was eager, so that

20 Trailwalker Summer 2009 North Queensland

Jungle Board walk - The Daintree Beach at Port Douglas was our goal. We called in at the local a coke the storekeeper made a phone general store to get directions and were call to the authorities advising them we surprised to find out that they like to had returned, so I guess she was fair know who is on the walk because some dinkum with her earlier concern. There walkers have gone up there and have was definite relief in her voice as well as never been seen again. We were told that projected from the other end of the to stick to the track and not to go any phone. After this we proceeded back further than the lookout, to do so can to the Daintree River crossing, making cause no end of grief for not only the little diverges along the way to the walkers but also for the search parties. various boardwalks constructed through Wow, we weren’t expecting that. the jungle. These are reasonably long and a must do while in the area, for Not to be put off, we followed they allow the walker to get a real instructions, found the sign indicating insight into what constitutes a jungle. the start of the trail, which was fairly Quite often they go over swampy well hidden, and off we went. It was a ground, both fresh water and salt and fairly difficult walk and I soon realised it are absolutely beautiful and a whole lot was the Kokoda Trail again, for the track easier that the walk up Mount Sorrow and the weather conditions were the Ridge. While travelling along the road, same and there were even some buzz- all of a sudden there was a traffic jam Cassowarry - The Daintree saw beetles. Parts of the track were with buses and cars all over the road. It fairly steep and tree roots made it into a wasn’t a car accident just a cassowary That ended our brief trip to Far North type of staircase as it was with Kokoda. going about his business. They are Queensland, for the next day we flew There were the same types of trees and rarely seen, so this was a bonus. home. The direct flight from Cairns even the orange clay which this time to Adelaide is spectacular because we This expedition took most of the day wasn’t wet and hence slippery. While flew over the vast outback and the view and ended our walking in the area. The we walked along this track we met two out of the window of those massive next day I caught a sailing boat out to walkers coming the other way and they rivers such as the Thomson sweeping the Low Isles for a snorkel and a look were most excited about the thousands around and heading out into the inland around. The island we landed on was of leaches they had encountered. We to become the Cooper Creek as it heads circular and about 100 metres across, stoically continued on until it started towards Lake Eyre are worth the flight. so the walk that day wasn’t very long. to rain (the wet season started on our We could also get an idea of what the I did find out however the reason first night in Port Douglas) and then Channel Country is. The flight over why Cape Tribulation, Mount Sorrow the decision was made to turn back. the Strezlecki and Sturt Desserts is etc. were so named. It happens that The thought of thousands of leaches interesting because there are no creeks, Captain Cook ran into the reef nearby and rain was enough to turn any rivers or any sign of any water only red on Endeavour Reef and the names redblooded South Aussie around. So, sand hills going north to south. This reflect his emotions at the time. He also as it turned out, Marie got her Kokoda makes a much better way to see and marked the islands as low and woody experience which only lasted 3 hours appreciate this country than travelling so now one is called Low Isle, the other (not 9 days) and at little or no expense in the heat and being covered in flies Woody. Did I mention I bought another to management. for weeks. tropical shirt at he wharf while waiting • Upon return we again went to the local for cast off. We also saw a little sunbird store to advise them of our return as making its nest under the roof, which requested, and while I was purchasing was another highlight.

Trailwalker Summer 2009 21 Outdoor Adventures with Kids The Great Aussie Long Weekend

By Alan Davis There’s no doubt about it, heading bush on the long weekend is one of the great Aussie traditions. At Easter and on the Queens Birthday and Labour Day holidays, all over this country there’s a mass exit from towns and cities as we load up our station wagons and four wheel drives and escape to favourite spots and hideaways. And why not?

Sitting around a campfire at night while have been almost exclusively Dad in the tent at night we’ve played the spuds cook in the hot coals, with and Daughter affairs. I have 3 girls “Comments and Questions” for hours clear skies and a billion stars overhead, and either singularly or in pairs they as I’ve silently prayed the girls would and a red or two to warm the blood. have been constant companions on fall to sleep. Bacon and eggs and a pot of coffee for all my long weekend trips. Looking brekkie before setting out exploring for back we’ve chalked up some fun times the day. Well it can’t be all bad. and have had more than an adventure Heading bush with dad or two. Swimming with dolphins isn’t quite the exciting Now my wife Jo is a girl who proudly and seals on Eyre Peninsula, we’ve claims, “I’m up for any thing as long climbed many of the higher peaks prospect it once was as there’s no chance of breaking a in the . Trips up the and staying home with nail and I can plug my hairdryer in Oodnadatta track, camping out by mum, getting up late, each morning.” Well power points lagoons and on stony gibbers. There are in rather short supply out in the was that magical concert one night in going to the movies, boonies so for the last 20 years or so the Breakaways out of Coober Pedy. shopping and having this has pretty much excluded her All the mountains in the Grampians girlie lunches suddenly from camping trips away and these have been summitted numerous times and Kosciusko has more appeal. has been climbed covered in snow and on hot summer But all things must pass and eventually days. Mungo little girls begin the chrysalis process National Park and that turns them into young women. it’s Great Walls of Heading bush with dad isn’t quite China is a favourite the exciting prospect it once was and as is Mootwingee staying home with mum, getting up and it’s gorges. late, going to the movies, shopping We were trapped and having girlie lunches suddenly here for 48 hours has more appeal. The age this begins once as a sudden is around the time the girls finish storm turned the primary school and head off for the bush roads into a wider world of secondary college. muddy river. We’ve Sensing this metamorphosis with my got snake stories, eldest daughter Angie when she was wombat, echidna twelve, I proposed a hiking trip to and dingo stories, Tassie as a swansong. Now Angie is crimson rosellas, what you call a “goer”. When she was thieving crows and nine we hiked the Bogong High Plains kookaburra tales. for four days one summer so I knew And bloody emus she was up to it. Together we spent 6 have pinched the great days on the Overland Track in breakfast bacon weather that was more fair than foul. straight out of the On our last day we proudly strode into frying pan more Cynthia Bay (none of this squibbing Issy, age 7, Flossy, age 4, Mt. Abrupt, Southern Grampians than once. Lying out at Narcissus Hut and catching

22 Trailwalker Summer 2009 The Great Aussie LWE

Angie, Cradle Mountain Tasmania, 1995 the ferry down Lake St. Clair as is the the next 18 hours storms raged outside norm today). But it was with a tinge of and howling, gale force winds racing sadness as I rightly sensed this would across the Gouland Downs drove be our last trip together (and my final torrential rain in almost horizontally. Overland crossing, the walk is far too (We found out after a lot of the West popular today.) Coast had up to 20 inches of rain). By the morning the worst of the weather Now by the time my middle daughter had cleared up so we set off for Lewis Issy reached the same age this hiking Hut. But the creeks were still up and trip concept with dad had turned into we were constantly wading well above something of a “rite of passage”. Issy our ankles. Issy’s footwear were a pair is a completely different creature to of little red gum boots so of course her older sister, quiet and with much they were constantly full of water. of her mum’s style. She’s my “Little With mud and slush and numerous Miss Perfect” with a touch of Audrey treefalls to negotiate the walk was Issy & Flossy, Mungo National Park, 2004 Hepburn. Could she cope with the anything but easy. But not one word or tramping trip to New Zealand I had in whisper of complaint did I hear. This summer my baby daughter mind? What little did I know. Together Flossy reaches the same age but a we hiked the Heaphy Track in the top On our final night we camped just post Christmas wedding in Hawaii N/W corner of Kahurangi N.P. in the above the Heaphy River within earshot means her “rite of passage” must be South Island. The Heaphy is a lovely of the pounding West Coast surf, an put on hold. But she’s different to her walk, the 82 km’s taking you through absolutely beautiful spot and without older siblings, what you might call a a wonderful ever changing landscape doubt the highlight of the trip. Up at mummy’s girl and I suspect our trips with the final day spent following on first light next morning we wanted an away together may be at an end. and along West Coast beaches. (I’d early start to finish the hike by lunch done the walk once before all most 30 time. Packing up Issy said “Dad I’m The era of dad and daughters and the years to the day). really glad we’re finishing today but great Aussie long weekend could be I’m sad too because I’ve had such a over. But it’s left us with a wonderful But the weather gods didn’t smile on wonderful time I don’t really want it legacy of memories. • us for the first part of the hike and on to end”. And all I could give her was a day 2 we made it to Saxon Hut about hug. Well as with Angie, this was my noon just as all hell broke loose. For swansong with Issy.

Trailwalker Summer 2009 23 Kapunda to Cape Jervis. September 2008 The Heysen Trail

By Jenny Benn Much has been written and recorded about the Heysen Trail, its up and its downs, its ridge lines and its stiles, its never ending paddocks and fence lines, and its wonderful variety of landscape. Enough.

This is about doing 21 days and A tremendous amount of research around 350 km unassisted and without goes into the trail long before you even a Timtam in sight! David and I have look at food or distance to be travelled always walked alone. To do this thing each day. You also need to know your is not as simple as just walking out the own physical limitations. Some trails door and starting off. are extreme in their terrain and not for everyone. Over the years and many Perhaps, after reading this, more of trails walked we have discovered that you will think to have a go yourselves. firstly we are physically capable of There is something very satisfying and most anything except if it involves physically rewarding completing a a rope and dangling over steep long distance walk with simply a pack drops!! We also have found we can on your back in which are your every comfortably carry 5 -7 days provisions. day needs, and just a good friend by Any more than that and those first few your side. days walking are more a stagger than Jenny and David at Cape Jervis an upright stride! up carrying around 17ks in weight. Knowing your Knowing your limitations is probably We are constantly trying to lighten the the most important lesson in load. Gear is an obsession. But having limitations is probably unassisted long distance walking. said that I still use the pack I bought 12 the most important After all there is supposed to be some years ago - tried and true and sort of lesson in unassisted pleasure in all of this! fits me. We also use hiking poles - only long distance walking. one each - but we could not number We also know we can walk for around the amount of times they have saved After all there is 28days with no great hardship, but that us from falling. supposed to be some sleeping for that period of time in our pleasure in all of this! very small, but very light weight tent When it comes to clothing, we walk is challenging! We much prefer to find in one lot and, other than thermals, the odd B&B or cottage to rent along have another warmer lot to change the route to break up the tent thing into it at the end of each day. Often First - choose your companion very and allow us to shower occasionally. we sleep in these clothes too. We carefully! You need to know you are We actually have discovered that after always have gloves and a warm hat as not just compatible but that you both 5 days you no longer smell yourself! often once the physical side of the day have a similar level of fitness at the But watch those you may meet back is over the body can get terribly cold start. Long distance walking is a “job”. off! We also try to have a couple of very quickly. Cold is the long distance You get up every morning and start nights break every 7 - 10 days holed walkers enemy. We sleep on “luxury” off and finish your day, hopefully, up in some delightful little cottage, Thermarests. Not for us are those thin around mid afternoon. Some days are clean and sleeping on a real bed with a mats. We also have very good down excellent, some are OK, and some are real roof over our heads. So - you have sleeping bags and a camp pillow. Sleep simply awful! You very much need to studied the maps. You have looked at is essential if you are to keep going day be there for each other. the terrain. Then what? YOU START after day and week after week. But - how to start on such an TRAINING. We train with packs on for about three months before the We also always carry an extensive adventure? Usually the idea to tackle first aid bag “just in case”. Blisters can another trail comes to one when the walk. We start with the packs not fully loaded and work up. We usually end ruin a walk. There are some excellent last one has faded from memory!! products available to alleviate that

24 Trailwalker Summer 2009 Heading

Yet another of those windy ridgelines Two beaches down, one to go! first hot spot or even treat that painful tea or coffee. For blister. We have bandages, dressings, lunch this time pain killers, even antibiotics. We we also had a also always wear a whistle to attract “treat” - either attention. Both of us have a compass a salami stick ready to hand. And these days we or nut bar, plus also carry an EPRB - which we hope cheese stick. The we never have to activate. When it body needed the comes to water - we treat every drop salt. For dinner with Tabs if it comes from a tank, and I de-hydrated we can also pump with our Pur Pump all our meals. from anywhere and make the water fit I dry a huge to drink. Why get sick? variety of veg, and even cooked Pretty cold! Scotts Shelter in Mt Crawford One day on the fat free minces. Heysen Trail it took us I make leathers of tomato and 8 hours to do 15km, chicken sauces, yet it felt like 80km! and add noodles to bulk it all up. This covered We have stopped wearing heavy hiking with boiling boots. Our knees hated them - all that water and left extra weight. Walking in lightweight to re hydrate for hiking shoes works just fine. But do an hour then make sure you have trained in them. cooked for 10 Give your feet a chance. minutes makes a tasty and Food - it is impossible to get it “right” highly nutritious energy levels and the type of terrain. - try as we may. But what we do is main meal of the day. Everything we One day on the Heysen Trail it took post ahead if possible or even do eat has had its wrapping removed us 8 hours to do 15 km, yet it felt like food drops ourselves for every 5 -7 and then it is placed in sealed plastic 80km! Usually 17 km to 20 km is the days. Food = energy!! Now this time bags. Remember rubbish is your most you would want to do. Well, that for the Heysen we had Ryvita as our responsibility - limit what you have to is unless you are just a young thing. staple food. For breakfast we had it carry with you until you find a bin. with marmalade, for lunch we had David is 74 and I am 61 - We can and We desperately miss variety after it with vegemite, and for afternoon still want to do this thing called long tea with jam. As of this moment we several weeks “out there”. We talk distance walking. And You?? probably don’t care if we never eat about food, dream about food and ryvita again! But it packs easily and if long even for the greasiest chip! David Thank you to all that keep the Heysen kept in its white wrapper stays whole copes much better with our trekking Trail going, and in particular to Julian a lot longer than other dry biscuits we diet - he sees it as fuel and can just Monfries. Without your never ending have tried. We also have a cereal and shovel the stuff down! Wish I could. patience and enthusiasm, Julian, reconstituted milk at breakfast. Variety Now, as for the distance you travel this latest adventure may never is best. And the never ending cup of each day - you must know your own have begun! •

Trailwalker Summer 2009 25 On The Heysen Trail Nine Artists, Eight Days in the Landscape

By National Trust “painting en plein air - everything dissolved into just trying to make some kind of response to the most amazing landscape - even if it was the response of a stranger.” Euan Macleod

In May 2008 artists Euan Macleod, Hahndorf in the Adelaide Hills and was wilderness areas, rugged ridges and Leo Robba, Chris O’Doherty aka Reg a fascinating stop over on this artistic forests of Cypress Pine in the Gammon Mombassa, Lucy Culliton, Elisabeth tour. Artist Leo Robba, convened Ranges. The ranges offer some of the Cummings, Neil Frazer, David Keeling, this special art trip with adventuring finest scenery anywhere in the world Adrienne Richards and David Usher, company, World Expeditions. It’s the and the combination of spectacular embarked on an adventure to capture third such adventure Robba and the peaks, rugged gorges and the rich their impressions of the spectacular touring company have organised for colours of the desert offered the artists landscape of the famous “Heysen a group of artist friends, to travel to a stunning visual palette. Trail”, a 1200 kilometre walking remote areas of Australia and immerse trail, in South Australia. The Heysen themselves in the landscape to paint is one of the great long distance and draw and develop an exhibition At the crack of dawn walks in the world. It extends from of their works. “The artists involved artists stumbled out Cape Jervis on the south coast of the in this expedition and exhibition are south of Adelaide primarily a close knit group of friends of swags quickly to Parachilna Gorge in the northern sharing an experience, travelling, followed by easels, Flinders Ranges. painting, drawing, drinking and eating sketch pads, cameras and laughing around the campfire, The trail was constructed during coming together with a common love and paint palettes the 1970s and 1980s and takes its of art,” said Robba. name after German born Sir Hans tumbling out tents. Heysen (1877-1968), the renowned An itinerary was specially set to cover artist recognised for his paintings the most scenic locations for this art and watercolours of the Australian expedition. Some of the best sections The group was fully supported bush that so popularised the Flinders of the Heysen Trail in the Flinders throughout the trip with a professional Ranges. Heysen’s home and studio Ranges were combined with the more crew providing camps, informed ‘The Cedars’ is located on the trail near remote and spectacular peaks, pristine guidance and transport in 4WD vehicles. This allowed each artist sole concentration and study of the landscape they had come to observe, paint and draw. At the crack of dawn artists stumbled out of swags quickly followed by easels, sketch pads, cameras and paint palettes tumbling out tents. As the group made camp in and amongst the landscape they were able to rise early each morning to capture the extraordinary colours and light that would unfold before them. “I was surprised at the intensity of the competition among the group,” says Lucy Culliton.

“After a big night round the campfire drinking and listening to classic vinyl records on David Usher’s portable player, I’d wake at dawn and look up to see Euan already painting, Chris Setting out on The Heyson Trail, a unique artistic adventure (Reg) drawing and to their side Leo at

26 Trailwalker Summer 2009 On The Heysen Trail

Lucy Culliton painting at split rock, Arkaroola on the Heysen Trail the easel. I started preparing my paints challenging environment all while the night before!” she said. gaining a deeper understanding of nature and the land. Each artist Leo Robba and ceramist Adreinne has emerged from the art tour with Richards travelled from the lower individual responses and experiences Blue Mountains, NSW for this tour. some of which developing into a wider Lucy Culliton from the Monaro Plains body of work beyond the exhibition near Canberra. Euan Macleod, Reg at S.H. Ervin Gallery. Four artists from Mombassa and Neil Frazer from the group tour in May are returning Sydney’s inner west. They were Artist Neil Frazer, at secret Canyon on the Heysen Trail. Courtesy Adrienne Richards joined by ceramist David Usher from to the Flinders Ranges to further their Brisbane, David Keeling, painter study and practice. On The Heysen Expeditions. Money raised through and printmaker from Tasmania Trail features work from all nine artists the sale of works will assist the and Elisabeth Cummings one of in a variety of paints, works on paper, (watercolours, gouache, charcoals, Gallery’s ongoing exhibition and Australia’s most respected senior education programming. landscape artists, from regional coloured pencils) and ceramics. • New South Wales. On the Heysen Trail, S.H. Ervin Gallery, The exhibition celebrates S.H. Ervin The Rocks, Sydney 14 November - Gallery’s 30th anniversary year. On The Heysen Trail exhibition is more 21 December. Open Tuesday - Sunday Special events include a Public than simple representations of the 11am until 5pm. Visit www.nsw. Program of Artist Talks each Sunday Australian landscape by this leading nationaltrust.org.au T: 02 9258 0173. group of artists. It is the making and at 3pm, artist’s workshops for bonding of friendship and sharing children and adults and an evening First published in Trust News, Australia of artistic practice in a unique and slide presentation from World November 2008. Taralee Orchards

Self contained accommodation in the Wirrabara Forest, Southern Flinders Ranges Adjacent to the Heysen Trail Close to the Mawson Trail Can accommodate up to 8 people Paul & Denise Kretschmer Ph 08 8668 4343 Email [email protected] Web www.taralee.com.au

Trailwalker Summer 2009 27 Trail Starter With a Difference Inaugural Walk Rally

By Nic & Ben Wait Sunday November 2nd 2008 saw the first Walk Rally run by the Friends of The Heysen Trail as part of the annual walk programme. No, it wasn’t a protest, but rather a walk which was all about adventure and challenge.

The early rain and thunder storms didn’t Everyone headed off again but it was deter 13 participants from meeting interesting to see that now they were outside the General Havelock Hotel in in the swing of things, it was more the city to return 4 hours later for a well secretive and they headed in different earnt drink and meal. directions (or were some just lost?). One team was spotted asking a grounds Before they knew what lay ahead they man where to find the trade yard. formed the teams in which they would compete for top spot. Each team was A deadline time had been set to return presented with a sheet of instructions, to the finish and as we patiently waited a list of questions and a map of the past this time for ANY of the teams Adelaide City area. The quizzical to return, we discussed the need to looks and comments as the instruction apply penalties for those who returned sheet was read set the scene of what late next time. Were they all lost or was to come. was it to difficult? The answer to both questions was “no”. They were just too All stood waiting for someone to make determined to finish and they forgot the first move until Simon, being the the time constraint. On their return Arrienne - A cheat on crutches leader he is, made the bold move of each team had the opportunity for more heading off with his wife Jenny. Luckily bonus points. This one was easy …. or he had gone in the right direction was it? Of course every good walker valid question and answer …. debate as all teams followed. Ben and I carries a basic first aid kit on every walk is healthy. soon followed suit in the car to see if … all we wanted was to see it and you anyone was pacing out the length of got another 5 bonus points. The results were very close with 1st Victoria Park Racecourse to answer prize going to Mary and Manuela (The Q2 and found the teams had already Long and Short of the ‘M’) by only .5 scattered quite a distance within those of a point (so Manuela … those bonus first 15 minutes. points at morning tea WERE worth it!). There was a little Best team name prize was awarded to An hour into the rally we all met in the cheating (not to Arrienne and Sadie (The Flying Foxes) Botanical Gardens for morning tea, and a last prize was awarded to Mike where answer sheets were promptly mention names and Sheila (3 Became 2 Stooges) for a kept hidden from each other. Given Arrienne!) and some very valiant effort. Nic’s injury earlier in the year it seemed interesting techniques. only apt to plot out a circuit to be Thanks to Julian who was able negotiated on crutches. 5 bonus points to contribute some prizes, more up for grabs if you made the circuit than doubling the number the without cheating and there was a prize Each team was allocated another team’s organisers had to offer. for the fastest time. Again Simon took answer sheet and the expected answers, the initiative and got the ball rolling, which are of course the correct ones, Judging by feedback, fun was had by setting a blistering pace. Bob had us were read aloud to enable marking. It all and we are encouraged to plan a all very excited when he got within .1 soon became clear that the rules on not similar event for the same time next sec of taking top spot but John took disputing the organizer’s answers had year. Next year the event will be held first prize with the fastest time. There gone out the window as “discussions” on 29th November so put it straight in was a little cheating (not to mention on correct answers and the means by your diary so you too can be part of the names Arrienne!) and some interesting which they were attained caused quite fun (and frustration !!). Additionally, if techniques. It was later decided a bit of back ground din. Still this was you have any donations of items which Manuela should be rewarded for both all part of the experience and our theory could be used as prizes next year, her technique and giving it a go for the in judging the success of the event was please let the office know and we will team even though she didn’t want to. that if at least one team got it, it was a be in touch. •

28 Trailwalker Summer 2009 Lightweight Hiking Walking the Bibbulmun Track Again

By Jack Marcelis When walking with a full pack and camping out the weight we carry because very important. Considerably reducing my pack carrying weight helped me walk Western Australia’s Bibbulmun Track.

I first walked part of the Bibbulmun Equipment List track in 2003, in part only because my feet where not ‘cooperating’. They may not have been ‘cooperating’ because Item Weight the weight, excluding food, I was Tent 1.7kg carrying was about 20kg.

I repeated the effort and walked all its Rucksack 1.8kg 1000km in 2005 with, excluding food, about 18 kg in weight. Sleeping bag 0.8kg (incl liner)

During my recent attempt, cut short Sleeping mat 880g after 406km at Balingup for private reasons, I carried only, excluding Waterproof 500g food, 13kg in weight. This incredible jacket and very much appreciated weight reduction fact is mainly thanks to Rainproof pants 250g excellent advice from David and Dorjee from Paddy Pallin. Head torch 80g Insert caption Stove 70g (gas stove)

Fuel 600g

Cooking gear 200g (small saucepan only) First aid 300g

Water bottles 100g (2 plastic containers) Digital camera 450g

Clothing 1.8kg

Water 2L 2kg

Odds & ends 1kg

Subtotal 12.53kg

Add food for 6.125kg 9 days TOTAL 18.655kg

Food is the variable but weighs Insert caption in at about 700g a day

Trailwalker Summer 2009 29 Loop Walks Loop Walks on the Heysen Trail

This issue we present two outstanding loop walks involving the Heysen Trail.

St Mary Peak Horsnell Gully Conservation Park By Julian Monfries By Gavin Campbell A walk through the koala community in Hornsell A day walk around Gully and past the Giles ruins offering outstanding views in all directions 6-7 kilometres - about 3 hours from St Mary Peak Walk along the Heysen Trail in the Horsnell Gully Conservation Park. The walk follows the Heysen Trail into Horsnell Gully, past the old Giles ruins, climbing out of the gully through Moulds Reserve. The walk is steep in places both down into the gully and out through the reserve. It also uses narrow back roads that need care. Giles ruins

1. Start the walk at the corner of Bridge Road and Coach Road, following the Heysen Trail north into the Horsnell Talyala Hills Gully Conservation Park. Accommodation ~ Laura 2. Continue along the Trail, down into Talyala Hills Farmstay at Horsnell Gully, then right at the Laura in the beautiful bottom (still on HT). View down Bunyeroo Valley Southern Flinders Ranges from St Mary Peak 3. At the fork in the Trail, where the Heysen Trail start to ascend to Giles The loop walk in this Trailwalker is Range, take the right, lower, fork on Map 6.1 of the Northern Guide past the old ruins. and is a walk to St Mary’s Peak. 4. Continue along the creek line The details are on the map and through patches of high reeds, the walk is shown as the yellow keeping a watchful eye for snakes trail. The walk leaves the Heysen the through the gate until reaching a Trail at the northwest corner of track to the right, heading south. the caravan park and is called the 5. Take this track, climbing steadily up St Mary Peak Hike. It goes along through the park, ignoring any tracks Now includes 2 new bedrooms - 5 in total and up the northeastern face of the to the right. Stop to catch your Good bathrooms - wheelchair friendly Pound and comes back through breath and look around the forest. Marked bushland walks on property the centre of the Pound and offers The track does a bit of a dog leg near outstanding views in all directions. Bed and Breakfast to the top. or Standard Packages available It is a strenuous walk and should 6. Continue until breaking out of the From $80 be treated with respect. (Refer to Park into the more open Moulds the Winter Trailwalker article by ph/fax 8663 2576 Reserve until reaching Bridge Road. Stella van der Krogt entitled “She’s email [email protected] missing! A Story of Survival”) 7. Turn right onto Bridge Road and “a little bit of Australia all to yourself ” follow road back to the cars.

30 Trailwalker Summer 2009 Discounts Available to Members

The following discounts are available to members. Your membership card must be shown to receive the discount, some exclusions apply.

Friends of the Heysen Trail Columbia Sportswear Company Scout Outdoor Centre 10 Pitt St, Adelaide 8212 6299 208 Rundle St, Adelaide 8232 0690 192 Rundle St, Adelaide 8223 5544 10% discount on all maps and books 10% discount off recommended 10% discount on outdoor gear retail price Adelaide Hatters (excluding sale items) Flinders Camping 36 Adelaide Arcade, Adelaide 8224 0131 Snowy’s Outdoors 187 Rundle St, Adelaide 8223 1913 92 Richmond Road, Keswick 8351 2111 10% discount 10% discount (excluding sale items) Up to 10% discount Annapurna Outdoor Shop Mitchell’s Adventure Trims 210 Rundle St, Adelaide 8223 4633 Westfield Marion 8296 7700 10% discount (excluding sale items) Westfield Tea Tree Plaza 8395 9555 322 King William St, Adelaide 10% discount (excluding sale items and 8212 5099 Aussie Disposals portable fridges) Westfield Marion 8298 9777 42 Pulteney St, Adelaide 8224 0388 Mountain Designs 5% discount Elizabeth City Centre 8287 3008 187 Rundle St, Adelaide 8232 1351 Wattyl Paints centres Colonnades, Noarlunga 8326 3186 10% discount (excluding sale items) Refer to page 52 of the 2008 White 327 Main North Rd, Enfield 8342 4844 Paddy Pallin Pages for your nearest outlet. Up to 10% discount 228 Rundle St, Adelaide 8232 3155 Boots Great Outdoors Centre 10% discount (excluding sale items) 1277 South Road, St Marys 8277 7789 SA Camping World Up to 10% discount (excluding sale 109 Jetty Road, Glenelg 8376 1330 itemsMono and ad fridges) quarter a page: 90x130mm 10% to 15% discount Trailwalker

Heysen Trail Transport Service

Drop off / Pick ups Mount Arden, Eyre Depot, Buckaringa, Parachilna Trailhead and more… QUORN BASED Wallaby Tracks Adventure Tours Wish to offer their professional services to Heysen Trail walkers requiring assistance to complete the Dutchmans – Buckaringa gate sections

Contact Details: Operator: Paul Keen Postal address: 6 Railway Tce. Quorn. S.A. 5433 Phone/ Mob: 0428 486 655 Email: [email protected] Website: www.wallabytracks.com

Trailwalker Summer 2009 31 Kangaroo Island

SOUTH AUSTRALIA Self Drive Holiday Packages & Tours

KangarooSOUTH Island AUSTRALIA

Accommodation Guide

2008/09

2008/09

32 Trailwalker Summer 2009