The Trailwalker Magazine of the Friends of the Heysen Trail Issue 108 Winter 2008

The Track The Friends’ trek

A Missing Tourist’s Story of Survival Lost on St Mary Peak

Walking the Bay of Fires A hike along the Tasmanian coast Trailwalker Winter 2008 1 PRINT POST APPROVED PP565001/00079

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Suppliers of Equipment for: Bushwalking Daywalking Trekking Travel Canoeing Caving Rock Climbing Canyoning Rope Access 192 Rundle Street Adelaide SA 5000 Friends of the Heysen Trail P: 8223 5544 F: 8223 5347 members receive E: [email protected] 10% Discount Excludes Sale Items, Canoes, GPS and EPIRBs

2 Trailwalker Winter 2008 Published by the Friends of the Heysen Trail & Other Walking Trails Contents 10 Pitt Street, Adelaide SA 5000 Phone (08) 8212 6299 Fax (08) 8212 1930 Regular Features Web www.heysentrail.asn.au 5 Presidents’s Report Email [email protected] 6 Cover Burra Branch Lavender Federation Trail Phone (08) 8843 8115 Email [email protected] 7 Walking Committee Report 7 Brief News Membership Information 5 8 Burra Branch Report Joining Fee $10 Single $20 per year 8 Article Submission Guidelines Family $30 per year 9 Office Report Organisations $50 per year 9 Trail Maintenance Sections Membership is valid from the 9 Discounts Available to Members date of payment until the end of the corresponding month in the 10 Walking SA Report following year. 11 The Trailwalker Magazine The Friends’ trek Views expressed in contributed articles are those of the authors, and not necessarily those of the Friends of the Heysen Trail. 11 16 2008 Walk Programme The Trailwalker magazine is 18 Annual General Meeting available by subscription or online at 20 She’s Missing! A Story of Survival www.heysentrail.asn.au/trailwalker Lost on St Mary Peak, The Trailwalker magazine is published quarterly: • Autumn (March) • Winter (June) • Spring (September) 20 • Summer (December) 23 Grampians Long Weekend The Trailwalker magazine has a distribution of 1200, and an estimated The Friends’ weekend away readership of approximately twice that number.

Articles, reports and other submissions by members and other interested 23 parties are welcome and should be emailed to the Trailwalker Editor at 26 Walking the Bay of Fires [email protected] A hike along the Tasmanian coast

The submission deadline is usually the first Friday of the month prior to the month of publication.

Advertising Rates 26 29 Mt Misery Loop Walk 1/8 page vertical $40 per issue A loop walk involving the Heysen Trail 1/4 page horizontal $60 per issue 1/4 page vertical $60 per issue 1/3 page vertical $70 per issue 1/2 page $100 per issue Full Page $150 per issue Flyer (supplied for insertion) $180 per issue

A commitment for 12 months advertising, ie 4 issues, would attract 10% saving

Advertising specifications and article submission guidelines are available upon request or by visiting www.heysentrail.asn.au/trailwalker

Trailwalker Winter 2008 3 About the Friends

Patron Honorary Members C. Warren Bonython AO Terry Lavender* Jim Crinion Council Members 2006/2007 Neville Southgate Simon Cameron Doug Leane John Wilson Fred Brooks Peter Wynen Sadie Leupold David Beaton Thelma Anderson Chris Brown Kath Palyga Robert Alcock Richard Schmitz Jim Alvey Arthur Smith Gavin Campbell Colin Edwards Julian Monfries Hugh Greenhill Cliff Walsh Jamie Shephard Jerry Foster Glen Dow David Rattray Barry Finn Dana Florea Dean Killmier John Wilson Council Committee Chairmen David Beaton President Simon Cameron Jack Marcelis Vice President vacant Julian Monfries Treasurer John Wilson * (deceased) Secretary Peter Wynen Finance & Audit Cliff Walsh Trailwalker Editor Maintenance John Wilson Jeremy Carter Walking Arrienne Wynen Office David Beaton Membership Secretary Marketing & Membership Robert Alcock David Beaton Honorary Membership Bob Randall Office Coordinator Council Meeting Dates Jack Marcelis Wed 18 June, 2008 Wed 16 July, 2008 Maintenance Coordinator Wed 20 August, 2008 Gavin Campbell Burra Branch Chairmen Bookkeepers President Arthur Simpson Wen Gu Vice President Kate Greenhill Xun Wang (Michael) Secretary Sally Fieldhouse Jeanette Clarke Maintenance Hugh Greenhill Goyder Tourism Working Party rep Hugh Greenhill

Shop/Office Hours & Volunteers

Monday 10.30 - 2.30 Wednesday 10.30 - 2.30 Friday 10.30 - 4.30 Mike Parsons, Beverley Blanch, Jack Marcelis, Wendy Fox, Sandy , Colin Edwards, Robyn Quinn, David Beaton, Gilbert Downs, Allan Wadham Jamie Shephard Elizabeth Rogers Thursday 10.30 - 2.30 Saturday & Sunday Closed Tuesday 10.30 - 2.30 Chris Casper, Chris Hanna, Relief Staff David Rattray, Dawn Bon, Jim Alvey, Elfi Driscoll Jim Alvey, David Beaton, Jack Chris Porter Marcelis

4 Trailwalker Winter 2008 Report President’s Report

Simon Cameron The last three months has be a mixture of review and renew.

At the AGM we reviewed the 2007 There are always plenty of suggestions fitness. We will have bon voyaged the activities. Easy to point out the positives of what the Friends of Heysen Trail first group along the Track by the time with more members, maintenance should be doing but Council will be this newsletter arrives. supervisors allocated to every section mindful of what we can do and for all As President I still like to meet members of the trail, and more walkers than ever the supporters of the Trial please come walking the trail and lead as many walks before. Another financially positive and do it with us. Joining the council is the best place to be a friend of the Trail. as I can, including the weekend in the year adding to the funds we have Grampians. We celebrated Anzac day been squirrelling away while awaiting As I mentioned in the last newsletter and Greek Easter as only the Friends the Department of Environment and we have established our goals for 2008, can, while fitting in some spectacular heritage strategic planning to be promoting Heysen friendly towns, walking. The recent weekend reminded completed. Another big positive is remarking the trail, and establishing me of why I enjoy walking in groups. the number of volunteers – nearly one water tanks at suitable intervals. Walking can be singular, solitary activity hundred–in the maintenance sections, but in a group it can be a social event, The walk season has renewed itself manning the office, and leading the coupled with the excitement of shared with a grand opening at Stirling on the walks. However it was salient to note challenges. 6th April, with a cheerful, community that we were unable to re-establish our sponsored event that brought the Greening committee because no one So take advantage of the other group walking clubs together. This coincided activities on offer and particularly was willing to lead it and we lost our with the announcement that the the trips away to Tasmania and New last female member on council without realigned trail in Deep Creek was Zealand. If you have ever wanted to replacement. These two events are officially opened. And while the season visit either of these iconic walk regions reminders that Friends is stretching its may have officially started many haven’t the best way to do it will be with a like manpower resources and the current stopped walking with convivial numbers minded group of walkers! hectic level of activity is dependent on a gathering for the Twilight walks and the small number of willing organisers. Kokoda groups steadily gearing up their See you on the Trail.

Sunday 29 June Pioneer Women's Walk 30 km from Handhorf to Burnside

Meet at: 8am at the Feathers Hotel, Glynburn Rd, Burnside (UBD 119 N16) Parking available off John Street at rear of bottle shop Bus for Handhorf will leave at 8.15am Cost: $13 for bus fare + $7 walking fee or Golden Boots & Multipass equivalent Pay on arrival Walking levels: Fast, medium & slow Bookings: Open to members & their friends Book through Friends’ office - phone 8212 6299 by Wednesday 25 June

Trailwalker Winter 2008 5 Front Cover Front cover The Lavender Federation Trail

This quarter our cover feature is a photograph of Bondleigh Road, Rockleigh, on the Lavender Federation Trail. The Friends walked this section, lead by George Adams, on 4 May, and will walk the next section over Mt Beevor on 1 June.

Planning is underway by South Australian Recreation Trails Incorporated (SARTI) Walking a section of the proposed trail extension for the next 55km section of the trail to be constructed from its current finishing Adjoining property owners along point at Springton to Truro via Keyneton the length of proposed trail between and built over several years. Springton & Keyneton have been Many hundreds of hours have so far notified by the respective Councils and been expended on planning, undertaking negotiations are proceeding with several property owners to overcome any Bondleigh Road, Rockleigh exploratory walks, talking to landowners and commencing work on a funding concerns they may have. This is a normal submission for the expansion of the procedure but it is fair to say that the Lavender Federation Trail towards its reputation of the trail and consideration and care by most walkers to the CLARE planned destination of Clare. countryside and local people have made The Springton to Keyneton section is the work much easier as the reputation planned to have around 50% on made of the users of Lavender Federation Trail roads, mostly minor roads and 50% on has spread. road reserves & tracks. Crossing the AUBURN Marne River plus the lack of north-south It should be emphasised that planning road reserves further east was a major is still in early stages and may change. It determining factor in planning of the is also very much dependent on funding route of this section. In addition to the with the total cost of the Springton to main trail, it is planned to construct two Truro section and loop trails costing up loop trails in this area. to $40,000 with volunteer labour needed TARLEE to construct the trails. In the Keyneton & Truro section totalling Their Footsteps newsletter is available by HAMLEY KAPUNDA 32 km in length, 13.5 km is on made/ BRIDGE public roads,10 km along a rail corridor email subscription: [email protected]. TRURO & 8.5 km on road reserves. Current planning is for three loop trails to be NURIOOTPA constructed in the second section.

KEYNETON

SPRINGTON

MT PLEASANT

er iv R

Rockleigh Mt Beevor y ra HARROGATE ur M

Preamimma Mine

Monarto MURRAY BRIDGE Walking a section of the proposed trail extension

6 Trailwalker Winter 2008 Regular Reports Walking Brief News Committee New Toilets Dear editor, I don’t appreciate being By Arrienne Wynen called “obsessional” because I have Walking Committee At Grays Hut, near Mt Remarkable, the pile of Trailwalkers since I joined. Chairperson and Mayo Hut, near Hawker, new Since my membership number is toilets have been commissioned. 73, I wonder who before me is still a member? Anyway it can be interesting As I write this I am relaxing after looking back, especially my own returning from the Friends walk in contributions. the Grampians. It is a wonderful place to walk, especially with a I remember the hassle. Trail Walker? group of old and new friends, Or Trailwalker? As for the entry in the refer to page 23 for a report. It is phone book The Friends of the Heysen also just 2 weeks away from the Trail or Friends of the Heysen Trail? Friends first overseas walk on the Noteworthy is the change in Kokoda Track. As a committee The new toilet at Grays Hut production. Many of you will not we are trying to provide choices have heard of or used the Gestetner for our members in both type, The toilets are prototypes for future wax sheets and messy black means degree of challenge and area to toilets along the Heysen Trail and of duplication back then. The small walk in. On the inside of the back were designed by Shannon Architects. editions to save money and print too cover you will find ads for walks in They are one of the first trail facilities small to read. The professionalism now Tasmania later this year and New developed from the Draft Facilities and is wonderful yet always the previous Zealand in early 2009. Having just Infrastructure Specifications Manual. returned from the Grampians and was the best that volunteers could The toilet is a sealed pit design which manage at the time. also having spent summer training is suitable in most areas with low with the Kokoda group I know I volumes of use. Anyway, I do have copies of issues would prefer to do these walks 45 and 47. I’d rather keep them if with people I know, than to take The toilet at Grays Hut was part of the you have another offer. I do not have “pot luck” in my companions. If plan for the campsite, and the toilet at issue 2. They weren’t numbered you have an area or walk that you Mayo Hut was to replace the toilet lost then as you well know. Mine start would like the Friends to put in the in recent floods. at December 1987. And, I have kept program lets us know. them in case the office or our archives We had our first walk leaders Letters to the had not them. A worthy reason and training day in march with about Editor healthy obsessional. 25 interested people. Some of Cheers, these will be leading or tail-ending Dear editor, just wanted to thank Jennifer Dow walks during the coming months you for printing my article in the magazine, and for providing me with a with help from experienced Thank you for your offer to contribute complimentary copy. I’ve never written leaders. There is always a place for previous lost magazines that can be anything for another bushwalking new leaders as our program grows copied (the last issue of Trailwalker publication (plenty for our own club and help is available and happily contained a plea to fill in a few gaps in newsletter), so I’m rather chuffed. given. During the year we plan to the office archives) run a GPS training day as well as And it doesn’t read too badly either... further Walk Leader training and Our next walk along the Heysen Trail a First Aid course. Dates will be is already planned - a repeat of the Re-Routes Hawker to Parachilna section. Havnig a advertised in the Trailwalker. Following an audit of published re- long love affair with the Flinders Ranges. routes, a number of minor re-routes Apart from all that it is great to just have been included on the website. be out walking again so I will see Yours sincerely, you on the trail somewhere. John Lindner Huntly, Victoria Member Discounts John’s article on walking the In addition to current retailers, Next Issue Deadline northern section of the Heysen Trail Columbia Sports Company and appeared in the last issue of the Wattyl Paint Centres are now offering Submissions for the Spring edition of Trailwalker. Contributions from other discounts to members. For details, the Trailwalker will close on 25 July. people walking the Heysen Trail are refer to the list on page 9, or visit always appreciated. www.heysentrail.asn.au/friends

Trailwalker Winter 2008 7 Regular Reports Burra Branch Hugh Greenhill

The Burra Branch held its 17th AGM Burra Branch 2008 Walking Programme on 6th April at Arthur Simpson’s home in Burra with 15 people attending and Please contact the leader the week before the walk for meeting time and place. a few apologies. Following this the Refer to the list on page 17 for what to bring and what to wear. planning of nine walks for this year was undertaken, which took lot of Date Location Leader discussion as to where we wanted to Sat 7th June Mystery walk Hugh Greenhill 8843 8115 go walking. Sat 21st June Civilisation Gate Road Arthur Simpson 8894 2113 The elected office bearers for the Burra Full Moon walk Branch 2008: Thur 3rd July Caroona Creek Heather Bryant 8843 0188 • President: Arthur Simpson to Touralie Gorge • Vice President: Kate Greenhill Sat 26th July Dares Hill Ken Farmer 8892 2125 • Secretary: Sally Fieldhouse to Wilkins cottage • Maintenance: Hugh Greenhill Sun 17th Aug Reilly’s Gap to the Jennie Abbott 8843 8056 October Long Weekend Away Flagstaff, Farrell Flat at Burra (4th to 6th Oct) Due to difficulty obtaining suitable Sat 19th - Sun 20th Sept Bendleby Station camp Sally Fieldhouse 8843 8028 accommodation and other events Thu 4th Sept Burra Gorge Hugh Greenhill 8843 8115 on during the year, we have decided to defer the weekend away Thu 23rd Oct Peters Hill Hugh Greenhill 8843 8115 at Burra until next year, possibly Sat 8th Nov Break-up Sally Fieldhouse 8843 8028 the June long weekend. In lieu of any cancellation West of Hallett Ken Farmer 8894 2125

Burra Branch arrows faded in lots of places and it was The Brown Hill Range wind turbines interesting to see a few perfect arrows, are all operational now and two of the Maintenance nearly as good as when they were towers are very close to the Heysen placed, amongst these faded directional Trail. The next wind turbine farm to Hugh Greenhill arrows. It is another job to fix these be built is along the Hallett Hill Range, Maintenance Section 13 markers. west side of Mount Bryan township. A 30-metre tower is been built on top of The Heysen Trail along the Brown Hill At Huppatz Hut the northern rainwater Mt Bryan for communication between Range has been remarked and stiles tank is very low in water, but the the wind farms and the power station at repaired. On top of Mount Bryan the southern rainwater tank has plenty. The Port Augusta. Heysen Trail has been re-marked. The rainwater tank at Blackjack shelter is full area west of Wandallah has also been of water. I still have to visit other shelters re-marked (the hilly part of the Trail). in next week or two to see how the I have noticed a lot of the directional rainwater supply is. Article Submission Guidelines

Articles on the Heysen Trail or other trails Contact: the editor can be contacted by email and be emailed. They should no more smaller within or overseas are welcomed on [email protected] or via the than 10cm wide at 300dpi (or 1280 pixels from members. Articles from non-members Friends office. wide). Alternatively, photos could be left on cd or dvd at the Friends office. Printed photos who have hiked parts of the Heysen Trail are Article Lengths: as a guide, a large article, are not generally accepted. If photos are not also welcomed. of 3 to 4 pages should be no more than your own or from a friend, you may need to If you are planning to write an article it is 2,500 words. An average size article, of 2 to 3 pages should be around 1,500 words. A 1 acknowledge the source. suggested you contact the editor with your page article should be between 500 and 750 idea. Unexpected articles may be delayed in Maps: for articles about multi-day hikes maps words. Articles should be typed, preferably in being published. are encouraged. Maps copied from websites Microsoft Word, and emailed. Printed or hand may be too small to be reproducible in print written articles are not generally accepted. Deadlines: the Trailwalker is published form - they should no more smaller than quarterly - March, June, September and Photos: to provide visual interest photos 10cm wide at 300dpi (or 1280 pixels wide). December. The deadline for articles is normally should be supplied to supplement the Assistance can be provided in finding or on the first Friday of the month one month article. A photo which includes the author is drawing suitable maps. Map sources may need prior to the month of publication. encouraged. Photos should have captions, to be acknowledged.

8 Trailwalker Winter 2008 Regular Reports

Trail Maintenance Office Report Sections The Heysen Trail is graciously By Jack Marcelis maintenance by volunteers. If Office Coordinator you discover a problem on the Heysen Trail, please contact the New Staff Members We also thank Bozu Zhang one of our Friends of the Heysen Trail office, Thank you to those members who Chinese student bookkeepers. His or the Maintenance Co-ordinator answered our plea for more staff Uni studies and John Wilson must or relevant Maintenance Section volunteers. We consequently welcome have trained him well because he was Leader. We welcome feedback as trainee Gilbert Downs in the general recently offered a position as assistant on the condition of the Heysen sales-office area. We also welcome accountant with a well know two Trail, constructive suggestions on back Jeanette Clarke to her old job of dollar chain. We wish him and his improvements that could be made, and general comments or enquiries accounting at the office as a welcome family well for their Australian future. about the Trail. assistant for our treasurer John Wilson. Communication Problems Maintenance Co-ordinators Thank You Frances We are still having some problems Gavin Campbell 8296 8613 (H) with inward emails not being answered With sadness and a touch of nostalgia Arthur Smith 8261 6746 (H) we accepted the ‘resignation’ of timely or not at all. We hope to resolve Maintenance Committee Frances Gasson who generously gave some of this with the introduction, in the near future, of more automated Chairman some 8 years of quite and dedicated John Wilson 8356 9264 (H) service to The Friends and the walking systems. We are also spending community of . Frances more time on training our dedicated Details of maintenance sections and introduced many procedural systems office vollies, but sometimes our age their contacts is available on the and ‘her’ Thursdays where always demographics and the constantly website at www.heysentrail.asn.au/ well organised with no ‘leftovers’ for changing technology don’t mix! heysen_trail/maintenance.htm the next day.

New Members Discounts Available to Members The President and the Council would like to extend a warm welcome to the The following discounts are available to Mitchell’s Adventure following members, who have joined members. Your membership card must Westfield Marion 8296 7700 the Friends since the last edition of the be shown to receive the discount, some Westfield Tea Tree Plaza 8395 9555 Trailwalker, and urge them to become exclusions apply. 10% discount (excluding sale items and involved in the voluntary, walking and portable fridges) social aspects of the Association. Friends of the Heysen Trail Mountain Designs 10 Pitt St, Adelaide 8212 6299 187 Rundle St, Adelaide 8232 1351 Patricia Austin Julie Johnstone 10% discount on all maps and books 10% discount (excluding sale items) Don & Sue Barrett John & Heather Adelaide Hatters Paddy Pallin Belinda Bayne Maddern 36 Adelaide Arcade, Adelaide 8224 0131 228 Rundle St, Adelaide 8232 3155 Jenny Benn John McBeath 10% discount 10% discount (excluding sale items) Met-Fung Robert McCudden Annapurna Outdoor Shop SA Camping World (Michelle) Chung Bill & Cherrie 210 Rundle St, Adelaide 8223 4633 109 Jetty Road, Glenelg 8376 1330 Russell Creed Morrison 10% discount (excluding sale items) 10% to 15% discount Rick & Jan Daley Maxine Mount Aussie Disposals Gary & Kathleen Claire Munyard Scout Outdoor Centre 42 Pulteney St, Adelaide 8224 0388 Dawes Roger Nunn 192 Rundle St, Adelaide 8223 5544 Elizabeth City Centre 8287 3008 10% discount on outdoor gear (excluding Craig & Jocelyn Peter Petruzzelle Colonnades, Noarlunga 8326 3186 sale items) Deane Lynda Plummer 327 Main North Rd, Enfield 8342 4844 John Denley Neil Rossiter Up to 10% discount Snowy’s Outdoors Ian & Shiela Peter Rudko 92 Richmond Road, Keswick 8351 2111 Boots Great Outdoors Centre Up to 10% discount Dickenson Stephen Salib- 1277 South Road, St Marys 8277 7789 Allan Dutton Brown Up to 10% discount (excluding sale items Trims Judith Ellis Graeme Shields and fridges) 322 King William St, Adelaide 8212 5099 Stephen Gage Aaron Stanfield Westfield Marion 8298 9777 Columbia Sportswear Company 5% discount Leo Hazebroek Susan Telfer 208 Rundle St, Adelaide 8232 0690 Peggy Irving Bill & Vicki Walker 10% discount off recommended retail price Wattyl Paints centres James Janetzki S G Widdison Refer to page 52 of the 2008 White Pages Flinders Camping for your nearest outlet. 187 Rundle St, Adelaide 8223 1913 10% discount (excluding sale items)

Trailwalker Winter 2008 9 Regular Reports The Walking Federation of South Australia, Inc. Walking SA

By Thelma Anderson Walking Access Committee

Proposed closure and sale of Barker Council for negotiation with the dulcet tones of the Celtic band added to undeveloped road reserve - part of the landowner to enable Council to comply the delightful ambience of another perfect Heysen Trail with health and safety requirements occasion. The most recent development in the for the walking community, their own on-going saga of protection for the environmental standards, and to meet the Woodcutters Road Heysen Trail through Glen Bold Cattle privacy needs of the landowner. A group of local residents has joined Station relates to Mount Barker Council forces to oppose the clearance of native Saunders Gorge conducting a public consultation process vegetation to allow access to bushland to gauge the wider community attitude Recently, members of the Walking by horse-riders on Woodcutters Road to the closure and sale of Long Gully Access Committee travelled to Saunders between Ackland Hill Road and Pole Road to the adjoining landowner. With Gorge to make an on-site inspection Road at Iron Bank. Onkaparinga Council a change of ownership in the year of options available for an exchange of advised Horse SA to submit a plan access to an undeveloped road reserve, 2000 a temporary detour around the showing details for the construction being a continuation of Woolford eastern boundary was installed by a of a sustainable trail for consideration Road through the tourism property of new management team at the Office by Council at its June, 2008 meeting. Brenton Newman. Brenton Newman for Recreation and Sport with no A recent Messenger newspaper report had submitted an application to Council consultation with the walking community advised that Horse SA has submitted a being considered either necessary or to close the section along the creek-line within his property and exchange that report to Council but has not indicated appropriate The detour through private details of the content. At the present property directed walkers through cow location for an alternative route along time access remains available to paddocks containing bulls, cows and a ridge with spectacular views of the walkers provided the alignment of the calves, over stiles and along electric surrounding ranges. During an earlier undeveloped public road reserve is fences. Throughout its entire route visit by representatives of SARTI and the identifiable. Walking SA has offered to access for the Heysen Trail, when it is Walking Access Committee the ridge trail available, follows undeveloped road was confirmed as the preferred route. assist with the establishment of a Bush reserves for reasons of both public However, the Office for Recreation and Care Site on Woodcutters Road, with ownership and personal safety. In this Sport requested more details of the co-operation of the emvironmental case the undeveloped public road reserve potential for extension of this trail to other management of Onkaparinga Council, but containing protected native vegetation undeveloped road reserves in adjacent to date no response has been received. became a cow paddock with cattle areas before withdrawing their objection Onkaparinga Council decimating rare and endangered plant to the proposal. Further research will now species, destructing the bog ladder be carried out with Mid Murray Council An excellent rapport has been firmly installed by volunteers to negotiate the to maximise the walking potential of this established with this local government swampy terrain, and contaminated the historic area thereby ensuring an excellent authority with joint on-site inspection of environment. The opportunity now outcome for both recreational users and various undeveloped road reserves and exists to restore the situation in the landowners. potential for expansion of our network of interests of both the landowner and the walking trails. In particular an interesting Official Opening of the 2008 Walking walking community and in particular the Season connection is available between environment. Clarendon and Wilfred Taylor Reserve, Another memorable occasion took place near South Road, that provides a safe The general thrust of an alternative on Sunday, 6 April, 2008 to launch the and interesting walking experience. Our proposal by Walking SA is for access current walking season at Stirling in the volunteers continue to negotiate a section to the developed northern section of . The ceremony took place adjacent to Piggott Range Road to avoid Long Gully Road to be relinquished by on the expansive area of lawn outside the walking community in exchange the recently completed Council Library. vehicular traffic hazards on this road. for access along a three-metre wide The various stalls were well patronised Mount Osmond Reserve fenced walkway. The walkway would and the walks organised by the Australian extend from Todd Road at the car park Retired Persons Association Bushwalking Members of Walking SA Committee south to a stile on the southern section Club were well attended and enjoyed recently assisted publicity through the of Long Gully Road beyond view of the by the many visitors to delightful nearby Messenger Eastern Courier for a Crown homestead. Walkers would then cross the scenic locations. In officially launching Reserve to be taken over by Burnside stile to enter and follow the Trail along the 2008 Walking Season, Mayor Bill Council. Council has given in principal Long Gully Road, via a bog ladder, to join Cooksley congratulated the various support to taking control of the 100ha the existing alignment of the Heysen Trail groups involved, including the many Mount Osmond Reserve which connects as it continues towards Jupiter Creek. member clubs of Walking SA, the Hut, to Cleland Conservation Park following an This proposal will be submitted to Mount and Friends of Stirling Linear Park. The offer from Planning SA earlier this year.

10 Trailwalker Winter 2008 The first of two Friends’ treks on the infamous track The Kokoda Track

By Julian Monfries I have always been interested in things military. As a boy I made all the models, WW2 planes, tanks and battleships. I dressed up as soldiers and made the toy guns and did I have fun on cracker night, BANG. We made mortars out of tubes and tried to shoot each other. I even joined the navy and had nine years as a serving officer in the RAN. Yet when I had an opportunity to walk the Kokoda Track with a bushwalking friend, in the mid-nineties, I declined.

Up to the time he stepped onto the with is now for over a year. I have At Kokoda we go plane he expected me to leap from the successfully blown the circuit board throng and joining him. I never did. in one expensive treadmill, and blown through the humiliating about 6 kg off my frame. With Simon experience of being Then for some unknown reason, when and the Kokoda team we have found chosen by our porter. ... the Friends Walking Committee, under every steep hill in the the chair of Simon, came up with the Ranges including one very hairy slope He grabs my pack and plan to organise overseas walks, with in the Onkaparinga Gorge. doesn’t talk to me for Kokoda being the lead walk, I couldn’t get my name down fast enough! We have discussed food and the perils 3 days. of dehydrating. Did you know that There was no particular attachment bacon pieces will dehydrate from 250g to Kokoda or . I had one to about 60g, or more remarkably that Day 1 relative a Coast watcher and my father Ginger Nuts (the Arnott’s variety) will The flight to Kokoda was spectacular served in the desert battles of Benghazi dehydrate from 500g to 520g!! Boy do and gave us an idea of just what we had and Bardia. they taste good and yes, they can now got ourselves into. Think Mount Lofty break your teeth again. That mud cake steep, think Mount Arden steep - you Since signing up, now over a year ago, dehydrates to mud cake biscuit. ain’t seen nothing yet. And green with I have read more books on the subject, water flowing like there’s no tomorrow devoured any articles, seen all the TV We discovered light weight everything, or no drought either. But then in PNG doco’s pertaining to Kokoda that I could that you can have porters and that they don’t have a word for drought. devour. In fact I have read more in the there is a thing called a Travelmate that last 12 months than in have read in the allows the women to pee standing up At Kokoda we go through the past 12 years (I am not a great reader). (now that I’ve got to see). humiliating experience of being chosen by our porter. Humiliating as it turns So there I was on May 1st 2007 starting So at last we are on the plane, the out my doe eyed young man is as my training programme. In all fairness, whole group together for the first time young as he looks, 14, and paints his I have been pretty good persisting including Jim our guide. fingernails. He grabs my pack and doesn’t talk to me for 3 days.

Quite easy really with a slight incline to a place called Hoi. The humidity was simply overpowering, with no relief from a breeze. Great camp site, cold creek - and I mean cold - and sit down dunnies. First chance at our dehydrated food and for some, a rather nice Cab Merlot, thank you very much. Not much sleep that night wrestling with the overpowering heat and humidity.

Day 2 Hoi to Alola with our first significant The group at the start of the Kokoda Track climb, like 450 metres or so, then on

Trailwalker Winter 2008 11 The Kokoda Track to Isurava and the stunning, simple monument to the soldiers and porters who carried out the campaign. And nearby Kingsbury’s Rock - near where the first VC on Australian soil was awarded to Bruce Kingsbury.

The night was spent at Alola with stunning views down to the Kokoda Valley.

Day 3 The start of the day saw the dance of the Campbell’s as Gavin tried to launch himself off the plateau from the watering point, even before we had left. Crossing Eora Creek Then not two hours into the walk catastrophe! Nic fell awkwardly, twisting her right ankle so badly she and plenty of pain killers. Two hours then needed to be carried to the nearest into our walk we heard, then saw the Awards and possible resting point - Eora Creek - but chopper heading back to Port Moresby. Decorations that’s her story and I will leave it to her, other than to say, the porters were truly Today was to be a hard catch-up day Tool of the Day (for the silliest as the wartime stories depict. with a 500m start followed by some thing or most spectacular fall NOT interesting creek crossings, then a resulting in injury) We made camp that night with Nic at 350m climb, more creeks then a 350m Day 1: Colin Edwards for putting Eora Creek as we had difficulty getting again to the highest point on the range, his malaria tablet in his water as the the UHF and sat phone to work. Mount Bellamy. This is also the famous purifying tablet Kokoda Gap, which like Thermopylae, This became our short day, so we could could be defended by 500 men. It’s Day 2: Peter Rivett for cleaning his be with Nic who was set up like the 10km wide!!! boots, then wondering why as they Queen of Sheba albeit with a nasty leg. became mud covered She had her own personal physician Then on to Diggers Camp, past a few Day 3: Gavin for falling off the hill and the royal visitors. Though let’s not very inviting camps that we all hoped at camp make light of her predicament. would be ours, to a very thankful rest. Day 4: Jim Drapes (our trek leader) Some of us took the opportunity to Day 5 for hearing Neil’s whistle chink and back-track and visit a Japanese fort Off at first light, much rested, with saying “That sounds like a Bell Bird” that had been set up to repel the a short day planned. On the 600m when full knowing there are no Bell Australian advance which looked right descent to Naduri, my trek came to Birds in PNG onto our campsite - the old Aussie slipping sliding end, with a very badly Day 5:Graham for taking an electric wartime camp. twisted ankle. I was able to hobble the razor to shave with kilometre or so to the village and there Day 4 Day 6: Shane for looking for the my story stops, to be taken over by owner of a cup left out to discover it Contact was made the night before those who finished the trek. with civilisation, and a chopper ordered was his for the morning we set off leaving Nic Casualties: 2 fractured ankles, Day 7: Gavin for dropping the last to her fate with a porter in support 1 compound • piece of fresh pineapple (fruit was scarce) and a spirited attempt to place blame elsewhere Day 8: Arrienne for asking where Ben was and he was standing next to her Day 9: Peter Rivett for demagnetizing his hotel room card thereby creating chaos for his room mate And the Grand Tool goes to Gavin for his fall and habit of forgetting his pole and leaving other bits of gear behind. His often spirited and verbose defense usually making his offense worse. The Friends at Isurava Memorial

12 Trailwalker Winter 2008 The Kokoda Track Nine days on the track with the Friends The Kokoda Track

By Gavin Campbell Firstly I must say I am a gentleman walker, a walker who has a definite aversion to mud, sweat and any other similar discomfort. If I could sum up the Kokoda walk in as few words as possible I would have to say it consists of mud, sweat and more mud.

From almost the first steps our kilometre, we had to watch every The Kokoda Track is still boots were covered in mud and that step to make sure we didn’t slip. This condition remained for the entire walk was brought home to us on many a living track, not just a from Kokoda to Ower’s Corner, the occasions, especially when Nicky and tourist destination... it is exception being when we stood in a Julian broke bones in their ankles and equivalent to our Main creek and the mud was temporarily had to be airlifted out. The walking North Road with people washed off. I sweated so much that stick I found on the first day became on the first couple of days the water my best companion and saved me walking from village to literally dripped from my saturated so many times as it supported me or village along it. shirt. The other constant was the tree when I put it in front of where my boot roots which made the walk, in many was going so as not to slip. The reality cases, a climb either up or down on a was if we wanted to look around we Kokoda Track is equivalent to our Main type of staircase. had to stop to do so, when walking, North Road with people walking from we had to concentrate on every step village to village along it. We soon The walk was hard and I think I was and where we were putting that foot. realisedGona this early in our walk when prepared for that, although some two young women were taking their of the climbs and descents were The Kokoda track is still a living track, newborn babies home to one of the exceptionally long and steep. What I not just a tourist destination. There are villages after giving birth in the Kokoda wasn’t prepared for was the treachery no cars in the hills and for people to Hospital. On many occasions we of the walk. Except for possibly a get any where they have to walk. The were passed by young men carrying machetes on their way to or from Port Moresby. Near the end of our walk we to Gona met three young women who were carrying cans of beer in baskets with WEST Kokoda PAPUA the handles across their foreheads so PAPUA NEW GUINEA Hoi that their heads and necks took the

O w strain. I hope Luke, our major beer e n

S t craver and drinker, saw this and took a n Alolo l Gona e note as he remembered knocking y Eora Creek

down those beers at our last camp at Kokoda R aTrack Port Moresby n SOLOMON g e DiggersISLANDS Rest

Efogi 2

Menari Village

Cape York Nauro Village Peninsula Ua Ule

Ower’s Corner

AUSTRALIA Port Moresby

Life along the Track

Trailwalker Winter 2008 13 The Kokoda Track Continued from page 13... Wuzzy Angels. During the war they were an integral part of our success, Some Comments Ua Ule Creek. I guess he didn’t see carrying and caring for our wounded, them or he would have offered them from the trekkers often at great personal risk. On our 10 Kina or more, as a humanitarian walk, when Nicky had a compound We are standing on a peaceful grassy gesture, to help lighten their load. knoll, Brigade Hill, with lush vegetation fracture, our porters had a stretcher and magnificent views. How can it I thought the best part of this trip was assembled in 5 minutes. They cut be that at this spot the noise, smoke, the interaction with the natives. In all sticks from the tree branches for the screams of men and guns and death DVD’s and videos I have seen about frame work, lashed them together took over? Colin Edwards the walk, the track and how difficult with strips of bark and their shirts supported Nicky’s weight. They then The porters were definite descendants it is, is the only thing mentioned. This of the fuzzy wuzzy angels, the fastest I walk which we did, with Backtrack proceeded to run along the Track three moved on the trail was when I was on Tours, was a walk from village to wide, including the stretcher, across the stretcher. Nic Waite village where we stayed most nights a log bridge over a substantial creek, in a village and met the locals. Most to the safety of the Eroa Creek camp I went in relative comfort - to villages were exceptionally clean with site. Just as there is the ANZAC legend experience their surroundings and no rubbish anywhere, which was a which came out of Gallipoli, I think walk in their steps; yet I struggle there should also be the APNAC legend to comprehend the sufferings they sharp contrast to the rubbish lying endured - very emotional. Peter Wynen around Port Moresby. There is a keen from the . Christian belief with most people This walk for most people is a tribute Mud, roots, mud, ascents, being Seventh Day Adventists. On to those young Australian men who mud, descents, mud, happy the Friday night we went to church people in the villages and did I fought along this track in late 1942. and learned that this is the centennial mention mud? Peter Rivett There is still a lot of evidence of the year of their arrival among the people. war along side the track from trenches Saturday is their Sabbath and as such Kokoda was so much more than a to ammunition pits and even, on hiking holiday. It was a once in a no one was doing any thing, which occasions, wartime ammunition. lifetime experience that pushed me to my observation was little less than One member of our group unearthed physically, mentally and emotionally to they did every day. Our porters were a hand grenade with some others the core. Ben Waite all locals and as we passed from finding some bullets on a clip. An village to village one or other would A wonderful mix of history, magnificent interesting part of the walk was to that have some relatives living in that scenery, challenging hiking and find my father’s unit; the 2nd/14th place and that gave each village a mud. Well worth the training and Field Regiment, had a major role in preparation. Arrienne Wynen personal touch. On several occasions the stopping of the Japanese advance. our porters sang hymns to us after It seems criminal that such beauty, It was their 25 pound guns placed at dinner. On one occasion the village tranquillity, and lovely people should Ower’s Corner that hurled their high people put on a show for us with have been violated by the evil, pain and explosive missiles at the Japanese the kids singing special songs along suffering of war. Peter Rivett positions, showing them that the with hand gestures. On our last night show was over. It was the ridge where we returned the compliment, which their shells would have hit that was was cause for great amusement from the turning point of the Japanese. our audience. Talyala Hills The shells took 30 seconds to reach Accommodation ~ Laura Mention must be made of the Fuzzy their target, with their destination and Talyala Hills Farmstay at Laura in the beautiful Southern Flinders Ranges

Now includes 2 new bedrooms - 5 in total Good bathrooms - wheelchair friendly Marked bushland walks on property Bed and Breakfast or Standard Packages available From $80 ph/fax 8663 2576 email [email protected] “a little bit of Australia all to yourself ” The Finishers

14 Trailwalker Winter 2008 The Kokoda Track success being watched by observers on Imita Ridge and not seen by the men manning the guns. There was mention at both the Kokoda and Isurava memorials, with photographs, of his unit hauling their 25 pound guns up incredible hills. I must admit to real emotion as I entered the battle sights of Isurava and Brigade Hill with the thought of so many young lives being lost. Imagining the chaos of thousands of men shooting and killing each other in such small areas was overwhelming.

The Kokoda Campaign was more strategic than the Battle of Thermopylae. The battle of Isurava was supposed, by high command’s calculation, to be our Thermopylae with all Australians present, dying (Thank goodness to Brigadier Potts Arrienne negotiates another crossing and Ralph Honner for not allowing an iridescent blue one that flittered that to happen.) I think there was also around with the speed of a small a smidgen of the Battle of Marathon bird. The days were quite cool as we My Kokoda as well. The similarity to Marathon is walked under the low cloud cover or, the fact that the Australians continually when the cloud disappeared, under By Nic Waite retreated then ambushed the enemy the shade of the canopy. When we and finally achieved victory. This Friends of the Heysen, first did occasionally walk in the sun it method of fighting seemed too overseas trip, was blisteringly hot and very energy sophisticated for high command to ‘Kokoda’ we hear people say. grasp, hence their displeasure with sapping. When we were on Imita We get all excited cause that sounds like fun, such tactics. Ridge it was cold, like Mount Lofty on a cold day. But Googling it soon sets us straight. As the walk progressed it became It was with some amusement that we Yet still we decide, well, we can evident that both Blamey and do this, Macarthur were even worse than first speculated Julian’s role in the village We’ll do what we must, make it so. imagined. They made their judgments where we left him. While he waited Deposits are paid and we start of cowardice from the safe confines for several days to be airlifted out we to focus, of , their only jungle fighting wondered if he would become a latter We need training and planning, o-oh! day Albert Schweitzer on his way to being fighting down the G’n’Ts in Months and months pass and strong the jungle of other staff officers vying beatification, dispensing good health friendships are formed, for promotion. and wisdom among the natives. Would As we trudge in the hills up and down. he enjoy this role so much that he While both feeling fit, apprehension Finally I must mention the jungle. would be lost forever in the Highlands exists, As we walked during the day there of New Guinea with his head dress, But excitement soon moves the frown. was, as with most rainforests, that a bone through his nose and be eerie feeling of silence with only the Eventually in Kokoda we are, known as the “Great White Buana”? occasional bird call. Having never slept And the trek is now on it’s way. Any one who knows Julian would It is humid and hot but beautiful so, in the jungle before, I was surprised know him to be a human perpetual Mud and hills are home for nine days. at the noise at night; it was like motion machine with sitting still for sleeping next to a freeway. The noise Bugger though, Nic only made it more than 5 minutes causing massive of insects and rushing water, which to three, continued all night, was incredible. withdrawals. So it was with great As she slipped and heard a big crack. The most notable noisy insect was the bitter sweet relief that his beaming The porters were great as they stretchered her on, Buzz-saw beetle. This was our Back face was the first thing we saw as we Now a chopper will take her back. Track representative, Jim’s favourite reached Ower’s Corner. Bitter because insect and was aptly named by him it was he and Simon who led all of for the noise it makes. During the our training and without him I doubt day, although we could hear birds, many of us could have coped with the we saw none as they flitted around in walk. Bitter also because for him not Next Issue the canopy. What we did see however to be able to complete the walk was a An article from Nic Waite and were butterflies of which there were crime. Sweet, because he was OK and Gavin Campbell’s comments hundreds. They were of all sizes and hadn’t seen his calling as being among on the history of the track. all colours, the most stunning being the natives. •

Trailwalker Winter 2008 15 2008 Walk Programme 2008 Walk Season Programme for the Friends of the Heysen Trail Instructions April May June July August September October November • Styles have been set up for Sun June 1 Sun May 4 Sun July 6 Sun Aug 3 Sun Sept 7 Sun Oct 5 Sun Nov 2 Sun April 6 Trailstarter everything - object styles for Walk Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Walk Rally Opening of the Bridgwater/ Piccadilly TBA Tanunda Black Hill TBA Parklands coloured boxes, and paragraph Trail Walk Season Mt George

Starter Steve Wilkinson Arrienne Wynen Gavin Campbell David Beaton David Beaton Nic Wait styles for Walk text boxes at Stirling Jamie Shepherd Trailstarter Sun May 4 Sun June 1 Sun July 6 Sun Aug 3 Sun Sept 7 Sun Oct 5 • enter all walks, use object style No Arrienne Wynen Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker walk when no walks or only one walk

Trailwalker Lavender Lavender Lavender Lavender Father’s Day of month 1st Week Deep Creek TBA Trail Simon Cameron Federation Trail Federation Trail Federation Trail Federation Trail on a weekend Walker Ray Blight TBA

George Adams George Adams George Adams George Adams Weekend Long October (Bookings pending) • Adjust green boxes to cover the 5th Sun June 8 Kokoda Track

Easter Sun April 13 Sun July 13 Sun Aug 10 Sun Sept 14 Sun Oct 12 Sun Nov 9 Sun May 11 Trailstarter week when no 5th Sunday of the Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter TBA Trailstarter McLaren Vale- Cox’s Scrub Belair Hale Con Pk Mack Creek Mt Pleasant Anstey’s Hill TBA month. Use these green boxes to Trail Moana Beach

Starter Michelle Foster David Beaton Robyn Quinn Mike Parsons Graham Parham Graham Parham Gavin Campbell Manuela Vida display the Key and Logo Sun June 8 – Away Trip Sun Aug 10 Sun April 13 Sun May 11 Sun July 13 Sun Sept 14 Sun Oct 12 • Update the Release date in the Trailwalker Trailwalker

Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker July 6 to 17 Trailwalker Trailwalker (Fully booked) Kuitpo Bridgwater- (Fully booked) bottom right Mother’s Day of month

2nd Week Onkaparinga Gorge Mt Misery Mt Hayfi eld Aldgate Mt Crawford Trail Carol Milburn/ Mylor (Fully booked) Walker Richard Milosh Richard Milosh Lyn Wood Gavin Campbell Chris Caspar June Long Weekend Colin Edwards Jamie Shephard • to create a mono version on fi le,

Kokoda Track Sun July 20 Sun Sept 21 when colour fi le is 100% fi nished, Sun April 20 Sun May 18 Sun June 15 Sun Aug 17 Sun Oct 19 Sun Nov 16 Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter TBA create a duplicated of the fi le, then Mt Torrens Wistow Brownhill Creek Mt Misery Mt Compass Bakers Gully Brownhill Creek TBA Trail Sue Scott/ Sandy Melbourne/ delete the object style group called Starter Lyn Wood Chris Caspar Mike Parsons Nic Wait Colin Edwards Arrienne Wynen Red Range to Parachilna Gorge (6 hikes) Red Range to Dutchmans Stern to Red Range (7 hikes) Stern to Dutchmans Michelle Edwards Rosie Gubbins

Colour version (CMYK) - follow Trip Away – Away Trip Sat Oct 18 – Sun Oct 19 Sun April 20 Sun May 18 Sun June 15 Sun July 20 Sun Aug 17 Sun Sept 21 prompts and replace each colour May 11 to 22 End-to-End 3 Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker Kapunda to Hamilton object style with its Mono version of month Sat Aug 9 to Sun 17 3rd Week Waitpinga Scott Creek Kaiser Stuhl Sat June 7 to Sun Jun 15 TBA TBA Trail to Peters Hill (grayscale) object style equivalent Walker Ray Blight Simon Cameron Ray Blight Colin Edwards TBA Nic Wait Group 1 End-to-End 2 – End-to-End 2 – Sun June 22 • Final thing to do is to replace logo Sun April 27 Sun May 25 Sun July 27 Sun Aug 24 Sun Sept 28 Sun Oct 26 Sun Nov 23 Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter TBA with grayscale version - then fi le Wistow Brighton Rocky Creek, Kuitpo TBA TBA Morialta TBA TBA is ready to included in Trailwalker Trail Sandy Melbourne/ Starter Richard Milosh Liz Barry Chris Caspar TBA Lyn Wood Arrienne Wynen TBA Rosie Gibbons magazine Sat Oct 25 – Sun Oct 26 Thu April 24 Sun May 25 Sun June 22 Sun July 27 Sun Aug 24 Sun Sept 28 End-to-End 3 to Sun Apr 27 End-to-End 3 End-to-End 3 End-to-End 3 End-to-End 3 End-to-End 3 Kapunda to Hamilton of month 4th Week Weekend Away Nugget Rd Mt Crawford Pewsey Vale Tanunda Trail to Peters Hill

Walker Grampians to Nugget Rd to Mt Crawford to Pewsey Vale to Tanunda to Kapunda Group 2 Anzac Day Long Weekend Anzac Day Long Sun June 29 Sun Aug 31 Key to Walk Programme Trailstarter Trailstarter TBA The Friends of Waite Cons. Park Trail Starter walk Richard Milosh Trail Rhonda Dempster/ the Heysen Trail Starter Trail Walker walk Sun Aug 31 Ralene Shaw Trailwalker 10 Pitt Street Adelaide 5000 End-to-End walk Sun June 29 TBA Phone 08 8212 6299 Ben Wait Other walk event Trailwalker www.heysentrail.asn.au Pioneer Womens Sun Aug 31 of month

5th Week Trailwalker Trail An explanation of walk grades and details for Walk

Walker Lavender Fed Trail each walk event are published on the website This version released 18 May 2008 Richard Milosh George Adams Walk Grades There are five different grades of walk on the Friends of the Heysen Registering for Walks Trail walk programme. Four of these operate during the walk season, generally from April to November when it is not Fire Ban Season: You must register for a walk, either • Trail Starter online or over the phone. • Trail Walker • Trail Rambler Register online (by Wed prior please) • End-to-End at www.heysentrail.asn.au, When it is not walk season, generally during the summer Fire Ban or by phone the office on 8212 6299 Season, a fifth walk grade, Summer Twilight Walks, operate. (during the hours listed on page 3). Details of each walk grade are provided on the website.

16 Trailwalker Winter 2008 Walk Programme

2008 Walk Season Programme for the Friends of the Heysen Trail Instructions April May June July August September October November Appropriate Clothing All walks •are Styles subject haveto you wearingbeen set appropriate up for clothing. Prime considerations Sun June 1 Sun May 4 Sun July 6 Sun Aug 3 Sun Sept 7 Sun Oct 5 Sun Nov 2 Sun April 6 Trailstarter are warmth everythingand weather protection. - object Your styles safety for and Walk the safety of the walking Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Walk Rally Opening of the Bridgwater/ group can be jeopardised by you wearing inappropriate clothing. In an emergency Piccadilly TBA Tanunda Black Hill TBA Parklands coloured boxes, and paragraph Trail Walk Season Mt George situation it can take hours to evacuate a sick or injured walker. Leaders may not Starter at Stirling Steve Wilkinson Arrienne Wynen Gavin Campbell David Beaton David Beaton Nic Wait styles for Walk text boxes Jamie Shepherd accept people for a walk who have not come appropriately dressed or prepared. Trailstarter Sun May 4 Sun June 1 Sun July 6 Sun Aug 3 Sun Sept 7 Sun Oct 5 • enter all walks, use object style No Arrienne Wynen Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker walk when no walks or only one walk

Trailwalker Lavender Lavender Lavender Lavender Father’s Day of month 1st Week Deep Creek TBA What to Wear Trail Simon Cameron Federation Trail Federation Trail Federation Trail Federation Trail on a weekend Walker Ray Blight TBA

George Adams George Adams George Adams George Adams Weekend Long October (Bookings pending) • Good walking• Adjust shoes, green or boots, boxes with togrip cover soles. Thongs,the 5th sandals, elastic-sided Sun June 8 Kokoda Track

Easter Sun April 13 Sun July 13 Sun Aug 10 Sun Sept 14 Sun Oct 12 Sun Nov 9 boots and smooth-soled sneakers are not appropriate Sun May 11 Trailstarter week when no 5th Sunday of the Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter TBA Trailstarter McLaren Vale- • Thick socks Cox’s Scrub Belair Hale Con Pk Mack Creek Mt Pleasant Anstey’s Hill TBA month. Use these green boxes to Trail Moana Beach • Wet weather gear - a three quarter length waterproof rain jacket is ideal

Starter Michelle Foster David Beaton Robyn Quinn Mike Parsons Graham Parham Graham Parham Gavin Campbell Manuela Vida (showerproofdisplay spray thejackets Key and and quilted Logo parkas are not waterproof and create a Sun June 8 – Away Trip Sun Aug 10 danger of hypothermia) Sun April 13 Sun May 11 Sun July 13 Sun Sept 14 Sun Oct 12 • Update the Release date in the Trailwalker Trailwalker • A warm jumper or jacket of wool/polyester fleece. Cotton shirts and

Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker July 6 to 17 Trailwalker Trailwalker (Fully booked) Kuitpo Bridgwater- (Fully booked) bottom right Mother’s Day of month windcheaters have minimum insulation when wet and retain water 2nd Week Onkaparinga Gorge Mt Misery Mt Hayfi eld Aldgate Mt Crawford Trail Carol Milburn/ Mylor (Fully booked) Walker Richard Milosh Richard Milosh Lyn Wood Gavin Campbell Chris Caspar • Shorts, loose comfortable wool or synthetic pants (jeans are not suitable as June Long Weekend Colin Edwards Jamie Shephard • to create a mono version on fi le, they are cold when wet and dry slowly Kokoda Track Sun July 20 Sun Sept 21 when colour fi le is 100% fi nished, Sun April 20 Sun May 18 Sun June 15 Sun Aug 17 Sun Oct 19 Sun Nov 16 Trailstarter Trailstarter • Shade hat and sunscreen in warmer weather. Warm hat/beanie in cooler Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter TBA create a duplicated of the fi le, then Mt Torrens Wistow weather Brownhill Creek Mt Misery Mt Compass Bakers Gully Brownhill Creek TBA Trail Sue Scott/ Sandy Melbourne/ delete the object style group called Starter Lyn Wood Chris Caspar Mike Parsons Nic Wait Colin Edwards Arrienne Wynen Red Range to Parachilna Gorge (6 hikes) Red Range to Dutchmans Stern to Red Range (7 hikes) Stern to Dutchmans Michelle Edwards Rosie Gubbins The above list is for Twilight Walks, Trail Starter and Trail Rambler walks. For Trail

Colour version (CMYK) - follow Trip Away – Away Trip Sat Oct 18 – Sun Oct 19 Walker and End-to-End walks, in addition to the above list, please also consider Sun April 20 Sun May 18 Sun June 15 Sun July 20 Sun Aug 17 Sun Sept 21 prompts and replace each colour May 11 to 22 End-to-End 3 bringing: Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker Kapunda to Hamilton object style with its Mono version of month Sat Aug 9 to Sun 17 3rd Week Waitpinga Scott Creek Kaiser Stuhl Sat June 7 to Sun Jun 15 Castambul TBA TBA • Thermal underwear Trail to Peters Hill (grayscale) object style equivalent Walker Ray Blight Simon Cameron Ray Blight Colin Edwards TBA Nic Wait Group 1 • Waterproof over-trousers End-to-End 2 – End-to-End 2 – Sun June 22 • Final thing to do is to replace logo Sun April 27 Sun May 25 Sun July 27 Sun Aug 24 Sun Sept 28 Sun Oct 26 Sun Nov 23 Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter TBA with grayscale version - then fi le Wistow What to Bring Brighton Rocky Creek, Kuitpo TBA TBA Morialta TBA TBA is ready to included in Trailwalker Trail Sandy Melbourne/ Starter Richard Milosh Liz Barry Chris Caspar TBA Lyn Wood Arrienne Wynen TBA Rosie Gibbons • Basic Firstmagazine Aid and Emergency Kit containing: Sat Oct 25 – Sun Oct 26 • UV sunblock, throat lozenges, lip salve and paracetamol Thu April 24 Sun May 25 Sun June 22 Sun July 27 Sun Aug 24 Sun Sept 28 End-to-End 3 • Insect repellant to Sun Apr 27 End-to-End 3 End-to-End 3 End-to-End 3 End-to-End 3 End-to-End 3 Kapunda to Hamilton of month • Torch 4th Week Weekend Away Cudlee Creek Nugget Rd Mt Crawford Pewsey Vale Tanunda Trail to Peters Hill

Walker Grampians to Nugget Rd to Mt Crawford to Pewsey Vale to Tanunda to Kapunda • Lunch and snacks (include some for emergency) Group 2 Anzac Day Long Weekend Anzac Day Long • Plastic bag for rubbish Sun Aug 31 Sun June 29 • Water in a secure container; minimum one litre, and two litres if the Key to Walk Programme Trailstarter Trailstarter TBA The Friends of Waite Cons. Park temperature will be over 20°C Trail Starter walk Richard Milosh Trail Rhonda Dempster/ the Heysen Trail • Gear should be carried in a day pack; one with a supporting waist belt is Starter Trail Walker walk Sun Aug 31 Ralene Shaw Trailwalker 10 Pitt Street Adelaide 5000 recommended End-to-End walk Sun June 29 TBA Phone 08 8212 6299 Ben Wait Other walk event Trailwalker www.heysentrail.asn.au The above list is for Twilight Walks, Trail Starter and Trail Rambler walks. For Trail Pioneer Womens Sun Aug 31 of month Walker and End-to-End walks, in addition to the above list, please also bring:

5th Week Trailwalker Trail An explanation of walk grades and details for Walk

Walker Lavender Fed Trail each walk event are published on the website This version released 18 May 2008 • Whistle Richard Milosh George Adams • Wide elastic bandage and triangular bandage with safety pins Walk Cancellations Further Information Walks are cancelled if the broadcasted forecast is for temperatures over 32°C. For simplicity, this can be determined the night prior to the walk on the 7pm ABC evening news weather forecast, based upon For further information about the Bureau of Meteorology’s routine 4pm forecast. Even if the forecast each walk, walk grades, is later revised, the walk remains cancelled. End-to-End walks will be rescheduled to the following month. This doesn’t apply to Summer frequently asked questions Twilight Walks. or to print off a colour copy If unforseen circumstances arise and you are no longer able to of the programme, visit participate in the walk, please notify the office as soon as possible, preferably by 4pm Friday, or leave a message on the answering machine (www.heysentrail.asn.au/walks) after this time.

Trailwalker Winter 2008 17 Report on the AGM held on 28th March at Woodville Bowling Club Annual General Meeting

By Peter Wynen We had 42 members in attendance and a few observers/potential members who had been made aware of it. After welcoming our Patron Warren Bonython and his wife Bunty, President Simon Cameron spoke on our vision of developing and promoting the Heysen Trail as a world class walking experience.

Simon’s theme enunciated at last Following the formal part of the years AGM was fever - and from our meeting, Simon introduced our Guest Maintenance membership of around 700 people Speaker: Tim Noonan (ABC891) Report we have been able to call on a pool who gave a description of his recent of about 100 volunteers to assist in experience walking the Kokoda reaching that vision feverishly. Simon Trail. He started by contrasting the By Gavin Campbell addressed some of the major activities random nature of the Kokoda trail Heysen Trail Maintenance that Council have been concerned. with the more formalised structure of Coordinator the Heysen trail. He had sat next to Fellow members, maintenance is Following the treasurers report (see Warren Bartlett (CEO of the 4 year old a very important function of the report on opposite page) and the Kokoda Track Authority) on the flight Friends of the Heysen Trail. It must be maintenance report (see the report to Pt Moresby. On the flight home, he remembered that the Friends of the on this page) the election of officers was seated next to a young Japanese Heysen Trail was originally formed for took place. Simon expressed his man who knew nothing about the the purpose of maintaining the Heysen appreciation to Claire Randall, who significance of the trail to Australia Trail and it was a special request by had indicated that she was no longer and after a brief explanation by Tim the Government of the day that “other able to serve on Council, for her of the fighting between Japanese and Trails” be included in its name. To this involvement. Julian Monfries had filled Australian troops, paused for a minute end there has been a request for some the position of Vice President for the and asked “So, who won?” past year and Simon gave thanks to assistance with the Terry Lavender him for filling this role for the last 12 Tim was at the site of the Isuarava Federation Trail and, after a formal months and assisting in a smooth Battle with a number of veterans request is received, we will consider transition. Having served as President from the 39th battalion and 2/14th that. We are also in the formation for 6 years, Julian did not want to be association on its 65th anniversary. stage of the George Driscoll Sea to “blocking” a successor to Simon in He showed a brief 10 minute video of Summit Trail. 2009 and has chosen to continue as a his trek, which showed some of the The past year has been a successful council member instead. The position difficulties encountered. Tim spoke of year with John Wilson and me meeting of Vice President remains unfilled. John the unexpected outpouring of emotion with Geoff Gardner and new section Wilson continues as Treasurer and at the end of the trek. All in all an leader Michael Scott to form a small Peter Wynen continues as Secretary. extremely satisfying experience which group at Victor Harbor similar to ended up being more than he thought the Burra group. This group will also Continuing as Council members were it would. Ray Blight, Cliff Walsh and Robert include Dave Evans, who couldn’t be Alcock. As a number of the Friends were present at that meeting. currently in training for this trek, a We also hope to set up another small Renominating Council members were number of questions were asked from group at Port Augusta/Port Pirie, Bob Randall, Gavin Campbell, Jerry the floor regarding the amount of which will include current section Foster, Jim Alvey and David Beaton. training done and other matters of a leaders Ian Hartley, Graham Hill, new New Council members were Julian practical nature. Monfries and David Rattray. (Since the AGM, Ray Blight has indicated that he Tim kindly remained and answered is not able to continue as a Council various other questions during the The minutes from the AGM are member. Following a request for more supper that followed the meeting. • available on the website: female representation, Dana Florea and Chris Brown have been appointed to www.heysentrail.asn.au/ Council and Bob Randall has stepped trailwalker/downloads/ aside to enable this to occur)

18 Trailwalker Winter 2008 Reports from AGM maintainer Michael Kerin and possibly Jenny Agnew and her friend Kerry. Financial Report During the year we formed a hut maintenance group which consisted By John Wilson of John Potter, Dave Curtiss, Geoff Treasurer Couch and me. Mid year we made an investigative tour of all the northern huts and subsequently fixed any problems we encountered. This will During the year 2007, the Friends 2007 Accounts become an annual activity, so in future made a surplus of $9,751. While all huts under our control will be better less than the abnormally high The Auditors Report and 2007 looked after. profit achieved in 2006 (due to Accounts for the Friends were sponsorship, sales and retained distributed at the AGM. Spare John Potter and Dave Curtiss have also stocks of Push the Bush), it is a copies are available from the Friends agreed to help both Doug Leane and satisfactory result, and typifies the office. Detailed accounts, prepared Joyce Heinjus with their sections and funds we can expect to raise each monthly, are also held at the office Gavin Bowden is going to assist Kevin year to further the objectives of our and may be inspected by members. Liddiard as well as any one else who association. The following is a brief summary of requires help. the 2007 Accounts. Income from advertising, bank My wife Marie and I are going to join interest and walking increased by a Income the End-to-End 2 group as part of the significant margin, while that from Membership Subscriptions $9,289 maintenance program of our section. membership subscriptions remained Income from Sale of Goods $4,980 A lot of that section is very remote steady. Sales income returned and this offers a good opportunity to Interest $4,102 to a sustainable figure of just cover a lot of the section that would Advertising revenue $2,697 under $5,000. otherwise be very difficult. Earlier in Walking $17,353 the year we remarked the Wonoka Income from walking rose Sundry Income $276 Creek Section which was washed away substantially (up around 30%), with Total Income $38,697 in the January 2007 flood. I estimate increases from all areas. The strong a 30 foot high flood went down the support for the End-to-End program Expenditure creek, washing away most of the has been sustained, particularly as Administrative expenses $3,613 trees and anything else in its path. End-to-End 2 moved further north, Bank fees $1,119 This included the dunny at Mayo hut and this has been reflected in the which, along with many other items, Golden Boots and Multi Walk ticket Insurance/Affiliation $3,830 is somewhere out in the desert, west incomes. The three longer events (at Office expenses $8,268 of Mayo Gorge. The old one has been, the Coorong, Spear Creek and Great Promotional expenses $5,874 I am informed, replaced with a state Ocean Walk) were also successful. Trailwalker costs $4,226 of the art new one, but sadly the view Trail Maintenance $2,016 enjoyed from the old one through the Administrative expenditure for 2007 open door is no longer there. North of rose compared with that of the Total Expenditure $28,946 Mayo hut the creek bed has become previous year. The main increases exposed revealing a series of beautiful were in office expenses for the Net Surplus $9,751 rock pools fed by a spring near Mayo purchase of new equipment, and in Current Assets hut. This, in my opinion, is a vast promotional expenses, reflecting the improvement on the old creek which greater activity of our Membership Bank Account $9,588 was full of reeds that obscured this and Marketing Committee. CPS, and Term Deposit $79,107 beautiful sight. Minor Accounts/Floats $171 Public Liability Insurance costs Stock on Hand $14,108 Finally I would like to thank all section have now been split between basic Trade debtors $4,770 leaders, for they are all volunteers and insurance, and affiliation fees to Plant and Equipment $0 they need special recognition for the Walking SA. The net result has been excellent job they do. little change in expenditure. Total Assets $107,744 I would also like to thank the The Friends spent $2016 of our Current Liabilities $7,480 Department for Environment an funds on trail maintenance, while Heritage, especially Bronte Leake a further $6,750, spent on basic Nett Assets $100,264 and Chris Halstead, for their materials and expenses was continued assistance for they reimbursed by the Department for provide the materials and expense Environment and Heritage. It should reimbursement. • be noted that overall expenditure on the Heysen Trail by DEH in 2006/2007 was about $400,000.

Trailwalker Winter 2008 19 Lost on St Mary Peak, Flinders Ranges She’s Missing! A Story of Survival

By Stella van der Krogt At the beginning of 1996, I decided to take time off from work as a senior manager in the Netherlands’ health system; a sort of sabbatical to reflect on my job and private life. I wanted to recover physically and emotionally from some stressful years that lay behind me.

My initial wish was to go to Ireland However, the first 3 months, after of 39C was predicted but I enquired at because I had always been interested Kalbarri, I didn’t have to use any the rangers’ office about the weather in their culture and the rough kilometres of my pass because there report for that day. I had a long talk to landscape but the climate was too were people I met on the camping Florence, the rangers’ wife, and she cool! Instead, I chose Australia, ground who offered a lift to travel with advised that a hailstorm was predicted. because the climate was better and it them up north. There was always an She suggested I go to the saddle of the is an English speaking country. This Ozzie who would ask “where are you mountain and reassess the situation. would be my first holiday travelling on going” and as I didn’t care where I If the weather was still clear, I could my own and I felt vulnerable, I would was going, (everything was beautiful go on to St. St Mary Peak. Florence only feel safe if people were able to for me) I accepted their kind offers. also assessed my outfit and gear understand me if something unforseen From Kalbarri I travelled to Monkey and said I would be fine. I assured happened! (Moreover, something did Mia (Exmouth), Broome, Katherine, Florence that I would come back to happen…). Kununurra, Uluru, The Olga’s, Flinders her to check in (I had logged out in the Ranges, Adelaide, Melbourne, , walkers check in book) and share my On 13 September 1996 I arrived in Brisbane and Longreach……. adventure with her. with only a backpack, a tent and camping gear. From the moment However, the visit to the Flinders I had already noticed that the walks I touched Ozzie-soil I felt good. I Ranges north of Adelaide would were not very well signposted in encountered kind, helpful people and change my life forever. Finding my way and I found this to be this would be the case during my down from Uluru I travelled with a true of the St Mary Peak walk. There whole trip. Danish couple to Adelaide. were faded blue triangles painted on rocks and the path was studded with I bought a 10000-kilometre pass to In all the places I had visited in small and big boulders all the way travel on the Greyhound bus and after Australia my biggest passion was to up. The entire walk was spectacular; a couple of days in Perth I took off to go bushwalking in the national parks. I encountered kangaroos, emus, Kalbarri National Park with Greyhound. Many travellers had told me that I and hardly any people. The views should visit the Flinders, one of the were breathtaking and I felt very most ancient parks in the world. Whilst happy and ‘grounded’. I was based in Adelaide for a couple of weeks I decided to go to Wilpena When I arrived at the saddle the Pound and arrived on 17 November weather was still gorgeous and after 1996 where I pitched my tent on the a lunch break I decided to go to the camping ground and enquired at the peak. This is only a walk of 80 metres rangers’ office about the walks. The but the climb is so steep that it takes camping ground was then an unspoilt time and concentration to reach area and the rangers’ office was just a the top. shed. These days Wilpena Pound has turned into a touristy resort. As I reached the top all “hell broke loose” and hailstones as big as ping- I decided to do the St Mary Peak walk pong balls were raining down. The sky the day after arrival and that night turned grey, I became frightened and the weather turned; we had had days immediately started my descent. The of 39C and that night there was an markings were poor and soon I lost enormous thunder and lightening my way, even before I re-reached the storm and heavy rainfall. The edges saddle. For a short while I tried to find of my tent got wet and the box of my way back to the ‘path’ but to no matches was soaked. The morning avail and still in panic mode I decided Stella van der Krogt after was glorious and a temperature to descend on my compass. Soon the

20 Trailwalker Winter 2008 Lost on St Mary Peak

St Mary Peak, Wilpena Pound weather cleared and it was hot and me, I was counting on Florence (from I had prepared myself and streamers sunny again; following my compass I the rangers’ office)!! of white toilet paper were blowing was now descending on the east side in the wind and wrapped around my of the mountain instead of the marked I prepared a ‘bed’ of a few branches head. I waved the bright blue jacket path on the west. and leaves, put on my rain jacket in the air and the ‘choppers’ were and lay down on the small ledge; so close that I was convinced that I became tired and careless and as I the blowflies annoyed me and were somebody would spot me. But, hours clambered over two big boulders I attracted to the blood and sweat. The later I realized that they didn’t see me. slid over the side of them, “heading night was freezing cold, it was pitch- I was hidden under the overhanging east”. When I slid over the second black and I was scared that if I moved rock and was devastated. I had tried (overhanging) boulder, I dropped onto I would fall off the ledge so I talked with a magnifying glass to give a light a small ledge of 1 metre wide and aloud to myself to control the panic signal and to start a smoky fire but 4 metres long staring into a ravine and to prevent myself making a wrong to no avail. I had left the matches below (with a depth of approx 100 move. I didn’t have any water left, my in the tent because they got wet metres)! I realized that I was in deep teeth were chattering and I decided during the rainfall. trouble and that I had to get back then and there that if I survived this over the boulders onto the mountain. ordeal that I would resign from my The dehydration made me weak and How stupid to end up on an edge of a work in the Netherlands and come hopeless and I realized that I would vertical rock that dropped hundreds of back to Australia to find work. I was die on this ledge because they would feet into a creek… angry with myself that I had made a never find me. I had to get back on number of mistakes which could have the mountain and at around 4 pm cost me my life. I decided to try to climb back. If I slipped again I decided to let myself How stupid to end With memories of my childhood and drop into the ravine. I felt too weak up on an edge of a close friends, the night passed and the and hopeless and could not control vertical rock that most spectacular sunrise I have ever the panic any longer; I didn’t know seen started the day with hope that a if I could survive another night. The dropped hundreds of search would begin and find me. dehydration would have made me feet into a creek… too weak to be able to climb the I was not disappointed because at the mountain; I knew this was my one first break of light I heard the sound and only chance! of helicopters and small planes and When I tried to climb back, I slipped a bit later I saw them: 2 helicopters I said a little prayer and asked to be because there were no hand grips on and 2 small planes! In the meantime protected from a horrible death. I the big smooth boulder. I fell and hit my head on the edge of the ledge and for a short while I was unconscious. When I woke up I had a hole in my head and was bleeding. With toilet paper I staunched the blood and pulled the cap of my rain jacket tight over my head. After a while the bleeding stopped. I knew that I could not climb back, next time I would not be so lucky and could fall into the ravine. It was also growing dark and the best option was to wait for a search party to find View from St Mary Peak, Heysen Range on the left and ABC range on the right

Trailwalker Winter 2008 21 Lost on St Mary Peak

View over Wilpena Pound, from St Mary Peak

clung to the first boulder and then it took a long time before the person I was interviewed. He told me that my something extraordinary happened: (Steve) was lowered. When Steve (a next of kin had been notified of my somebody or something was pushing doctor at the Royal Adelaide Hospital) ‘missing person’ status and that the my butt up and before I knew it I was hung in front of me he asked “are outcome had looked serious. I learned standing on top of the 2nd boulder, on you Stella” and I said yes (afterwards that the helicopters and planes were the mountain! I called this experience this question seemed hysterical and making their last search as they had my “Aboriginal spirit” who guided me friends and I had lots of laughs about given up hope of finding me alive. through this ordeal and who made it; suppose I would have said no, I am the impossible possible. My bra and Sally...) and Steve put his arms around When I was released from hospital T-shirt were torn but I screamed with me and asked me to put my arms and I went back to Wilpena Pound to joy knowing I could walk and would legs around him so we could both be thank everybody for their help. be alright. winched up into the helicopter. We My travel insurance was happy to swayed in the strong wind and it was a pay the $30,000 search costs but With my binoculars I saw that there dangerous manoeuvre to get us in but searches in Australia are paid by the was a creek in the valley and my first after a few attempts the pilot had us government and there were no costs priority was to get water. both in the helicopter. After 52 hours I charged to me! was on my way to safety. The descent was the most beautiful In Wilpena I was welcomed by experience of my life because I saw Steve took me in his arms and the Florence and Dean and I stayed a week wonderful images (in retrospect I with them. I thanked the rangers by know that I was hallucinating, due working hard with a volunteer group to the dehydration). First I saw a red When Steve hung in clearing paths and making the tracks kangaroo sleeping and whilst I was front of me he asked better. The rangers offered me a flight talking to the animal and getting closer over the pound to show me that I realized it was a rock. Then I saw a “are you Stella?” and without smoke signals it is impossible man, a shepherd, tending his sheep I said yes. Afterwards to find somebody. We tried to find the and I talked to him about my joy of spot where I was stuck on the ledge survival, but when I touched the image this question seemed but it was never sighted. I realize it was a rock. And so it went hysterical; suppose on until I reached the creek where the When I did go back to the Netherlands real kangaroos and wild goats were I would have said in February 1997 I resigned from my drinking. I let myself fall into the creek “no, I am Sally?” job to take effect in December 1997 and drink the most delicious water and prepared myself to come back to feeling that I had entered paradise. Australia. I submitted CV’s and was other three men said how happy they confident that I would find a job and Under a gum tree I made a bed of were that I had been found, they on 28 December 1997 I was back grass and branches, preparing myself had almost given up hope of finding in Australia and started work for the for the night while it was still dusk. I me. That was the moment when I Dutch government on 1 June 1998. heard the engines of a helicopter but I released all my emotions and sobbed decided to let it go, the place where I in Steve’s arms. We flew to Wilpena Until this day I am still friends with was too beautiful to leave. Soon after Pound that had become an emergency Florence and Dean and the other I heard a second helicopter and this centre and I was welcomed by a crying rangers. time my mind reasoned and won: I Florence (who became my Florence walked to an open spot in the thicket Nightingale). On a bed in the motel Since 18 November 1996 my soul and waved with my blue jacket to I was examined by Steve and he put and part of me will always be in the draw attention. I knew this helicopter a brace around my neck and had me Flinders Ranges. For the past 11 years spotted me because it circled low transported by ambulance to Port I have lived, worked and enjoyed this above me and I realized the helicopter Augusta. This transport and my 3-day beautiful country becoming a proud was not able to land. They lowered a stay in Port Augusta hospital is a story Australian citizen in 2007! • windlass and somebody was tied to on its own……When I arrived Paul it. There was such a strong wind that Editor’s note: the trail is now well marked Makin from Chanel 10 was there and with signs on steel posts every 200 metres.

22 Trailwalker Winter 2008 The Friends’ Weekend Away Grampians Long Weekend

By Manuela Vida The Grampians weekend, started early for some keen walkers, those who could escape work early, so that by late evening, on Thursday 24th, the majority of the expected 29, had arrived.

Our accommodation was at the Baptist worried looks exchanged amongst the The surprise for the night was a lively Camp and Conference Centre, at prospective walkers, time would tell game of ‘2 Up’, held in the main hall, Halls Gap, in a very central part of how it was to be! with Simon taking charge, and the the town, set out in simple but clean keen attendance and participation of cabins, with spacious kitchen and main Friday began with an early start, ‘real’ most walkers. Even though no real hall facilities. coffee for the ones needing a kickstart, gambling took place, a lively exchange hearty breakfast, and frenetic lunch surely kept the crowd interested, even There was a flurry of greetings preparations! A quick briefing to one the non Ozzies! amongst old mates, new intro’s for a and all gathered, and off we went, on few “Virginal” Friends, and the usual foot, to begin our walk to The Pinnacle. fun and games sorting out one’s bunk room, or cabins, for the couples We were lucky with the weather, The whole exercise attending. A hurried meal of sorts was a cool, clear day, as we began our put together, individually, sharing gentle trail on through Venus Baths, made jolly by the by some, and the ice was broken the Grand Canyon, lovely vegetation, appearance & soon enough. great rock formations all around us, and a gradual climb. It became more disappearance of a Our walk leaders. Simon Cameron for challenging as we approached Silence red/yellow umbrella, the Trailwalkers, and Lyn Wood for the Street steps, with some huffing and the banter and Trailstarters, introduced themselves, puffing, and a slow pace, due to the gave a concise briefing on Friday’s numerous walkers, including a fair camaraderie walks, and that’s when we also were number of young children. told by Simon that we had to observe The views at the top were great, a certain code of ethics: no nudity, Saturday off to another early start, with clear, and allowing all to break off no excessive partying, restrained usual preparations, briefings, and car for small snack/drink and a catch drinking. There were certainly some pooling to 2 different destinations: the up chat. We regrouped, with the Trailstarters off on a 9.5 ks loop walk Trailwalkers, under Simon’s baton, to McKenzie Falls, the Trailwalkers on taking off on a southerly direction, a 14km trek to Mt Difficult. (see Alan’s article overleaf), and the Trailstarters on a downward loop. The highlights of the Trailstarter walk This went through some interesting goes like this: moderate upward climb flora and rock formation, a small fire on fire trail, lots of new growth yakka track, and on to Turrett Falls, where a trees, (after devastating fires), a lovely lovely lunch break was enjoyed by all. morning tea stop at Zumstein picnic Onward home through familiar earlier grounds, (with walk past old Zumstein covered ground, and terminating at the homestead and old swimming pool, Wonderland car park, with a short easy fondly remembered by one, Melvin). path back to our base camp. A challenging wet, slippery trail along McKenzie River, with very beautiful Friday night shaped up into a jolly scenery, culminating with a steep gathering of relaxed walkers, swapping climb, (countless steps), up to the falls. stories, and celebrating Anzac Day, with a ‘true blue’ Ozzie barbecue, The whole exercise made jolly by organised beautifully by Jenny and the appearance/disappearance of Simon. There were some willing male a red/yellow umbrella, the banter, Was Michael colour coordinating his helpers, ‘burning’ the sausages, one camaraderie, and the guidance and raincoat and umbrella - a different seen wearing psychedelic leggings, (for safety concerns shown by Lyn. An colour umbrella each day? the benefit of the ladies, we believe). invigorating, satisfying walk!

Trailwalker Winter 2008 23 Grampians Weekend

A Tale of Misadventure Greeks in the Grampians

By Alan Davis Holy baklava, you just can’t head off on a “Friends” long weekend with the theme “Greeks in the Grampians” and not be up for a good time.

But as much as the social side of heart to tell them they were already these trips should be enough to fresh out. At the Sundial Turntable make them a must in your “Friends” lunch was declared. On any Friends calendar, there is an ulterior motive weekend away diet and nutrition to all this fun and frivolity. And that is are deemed very important to the of course the bushwalking itself. So extent that no matter how strenuous on Anzac Friday at 9am we all set off the activities, you’ll almost certainly from our camp in Halls Gap following arrive back home heavier than when a well graded track up past the Venus you left. Baths and thence to the Wonderland car park. Here perhaps the most Before we’d left camp, I tried to lift popular walk in the Grampians leads Simon’s daypack and had come to up through the Grand Canyon and the conclusion he either had rocks Silent Street to The Pinnacle. We in his head or rocks in his pack or joined about half of Victoria on the both, such was it’s weight. But all summit and settled down for morning lunch whilst our stragglers wandered in over the next 20-30 minutes. Two I tried to lift Simon’s Grand Canyon separate routes back to base were daypack and proposed, with Lyn Wood leading the the best that Ethiopia and Kenya has Trailstarters and Simon and Arrienne had come to the to offer. A short bushbash soon had the Trailwalkers. I joined the latter. conclusion he either us on Bellfield Track and like horses on the last straight, everyone began Of Simon Cameron, our president had rocks in his head to stride out. Here the men could and all-round good guy I need to or rocks in his pack, only gaze in awe from behind at say little. You can’t be an active the amazing form and fitness of our member of the Friends and not have or both, such was young ladies Hilary and Remy as they met him, because like a gopher on it’s weight. strode to the front. After an hour we a golf course, he keeps popping came to a tee junction and here all up everywhere. Of Arienne Wynen Simon’s experience came to the fore. let’s just say once you’ve met this was revealed at lunch when from The less experienced members of the girl, you’re not liable to forget her it’s interior, a multi fuel (gum leaves, group just couldn’t quite understand in a hurry. Her husband Peter is twigs, bracken etc) billy appeared and why a 2.1km track heading downhill perhaps the most easy going person in a matter of minutes we were all into Halls Gap must always take you’ll ever meet and obviously very sipping hot tea and washing down, longer than a 4km undulating route sensible. With Simon leading she what else, but Anzac biscuits. heading upwards. We took the took her position of bringing up the high road. rear very seriously and soon let us From the turntable it was back onto men know she expected to be able to the Sundial track gradually dropping Much debate raged amongst the men observe our butts at all times. down to the Stoney Rises and thence on this last stretch about what was the Grampians road at Lake Bellfield. more important after a long day’s Leaving the tessellated landscape On this section the old hikers saying hike, a cold beer or a hot shower. of the top behind we were soon “what goes up must come down at Melvin and Jim soon showed where dropping down through the twice the pace” was proved correct. their priorities lay when, back in regenerating forest passing many However, no-one could get within a camp, they went straight for the other hikers struggling up. We Bull’s roar of Victor. If he is typical fridge. But of course they are English cheered these souls by saying yes of his race, Romania given proper and as every Aussie knows they’ll indeed, there is a beer stall on the training and facilities, could easily choose an amber ale over a good summit. However we didn’t have the produce athletes to compete with wash every time.

24 Trailwalker Winter 2008 Grampians Weekend

Continued from page 23...

As for the Trailwalker: this adventurous lot, were given an amazing performance of ‘Amazing Grace’, at the top of Mt Difficult, by none other... Simon, with his bagpipes!! So many comments, so here are some choice ones: Peter=challenging, boulders, scrambling, rock-hopping. Hilary=exciting, feet-punishing, camaraderie. Robyn=amazing car size slabs of fallen rocks, 5 headed xanthorea!?, Mary=wet, windy, Lunch at Turrett Falls descent made bearable by Simon’s singing!, Allan=would love to do celebration: roast lamb with all the comparison, but it was worth the descent on a clear day, Arienne= trimmings, followed by baklava!! What effort, as the view from the top were loved the challenge but would prefer a feast. The grand finale was Greek clear and lovely. It was a leisurely the President to stick to singing,Victor dancing, organised by Simon, with ascent, with some huffing, short, & Dana=great boulders and stones, an Italian version by Michael. A lot of with a slightly more challenging promise not to get stuck in wind fun and laughter, as the most nimble descent due to the loose rocks and tunnel next time, Ben=rock hopping, persisted, whilst the less energetic uneven terrain. We were witnesses variety of views, great ledge walk, stood by, nursing their tummies. to captivating climbers, who looked Jenny=slipping and scrambling, like gliding birds, and added to the memorable, Remy and Jim=would Sunday brought a clear day, early fascinating surroundings. love to revisit on a clear day. farewells for departing walkers, and a briefing for the flagellating remainder, A very relaxed way to end an extremely Saturday night back at camp the stories who drove back to Horsham and on to enjoyable weekend, well organised, got bigger and better by the minute, Natimuk, to walk Mt. Arapiles. catered to a tee, and as usual offering each group outdoing the injuries walk choices, and fun people. • and scratches collected on the day! This area is the mecca for serious Mono ad quarter a page: 90x130mm Dinner was a marvellous Greek Easter climbers, so our walk, pales in Trailwalker

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Trailwalker Winter 2008 25 A Hike Along the North-Eastern Tasmanian Coast Walking the Bay of Fires

By Russell O’Brien Since reading a magazine article about the Bay of Fires in 2001 (Australian Geographic 61), I’ve contemplated walking the area when the opportunity arose.

In April 2007 while travelling Tasmania Parks and Wildlife Service Tasmania that the most of the walk is actually and doing a variety of day walks, my information sheet, Visiting Mt. William along coastline other than the Bay wife and I visited St. Helens and the National Park, was essential reading. of Fires. Despite this fact, each bay southern end of the Bay of Fires at (www.parks.tas.gov.au/factsheets/ encountered presents a spectacular The Gardens. It was at this time that I visiting/MtWilliam.pdf) sight. The combination of pristine noticed a brochure by a local tourism beaches, turquoise sea, rolling surf, operator offering to transport small To access our chosen starting point blue skies and preponderance of groups anywhere in Tasmania’s north at Top Camp, just east of Musselroe magnificent groups of granite boulders east. It now appears that my mind Bay we sought the services of was an awesome spectacle as the was being readied for the moment Johno’s Quicky 4WD Tas Tours walk along the coast unfolded. Many when, late in 2007, two friends asked (www.johnos4wdtours.com.au). of the boulders displayed attractive if we would like to join them in a Johno (aka Ian Johnson) is an colouring in the form of orange lichen walk of the Bay of Fires in April this affable character who offered us that appears to have been splashed year. Our hesitation was brief and the a personalised service for a very on by a passing artist. In the sun the research began. fair charge and kept us entertained colouring is intense. The shapes of throughout our time in his care. On the boulders are intriguing and very The Bay of Fires runs from Binalong the basis that water was not available photogenic. Bird life along the coast is Bay in the south to Eddystone Point along the walk, we decided to leave abundant and, in camps, the Bennetts in the north on Tasmania’s north a supply at out first night’s camp at wallabies, pademelons and wombats east coast. It was named by Tobias Stumpys Bay on our way north. were frequent and welcome visitors. Furneaux who saw fires along the shore as his ship, the Adventure, sailed Top Camp is basic but proved to be past in 1773. (See the historical note at It was immediately good starting point. After a quick the end of the article.) lunch we met the beach for the first obvious that our time and were instantly searching for Although a guided walk of the Bay cameras were going superlatives to describe the scene of Fires is available, our choice was that lay before us. It was immediately independent walking. However, our to get a work-out. obvious that our cameras were going walk would roughly follow that of the to get a work-out. Number 2 camp at guided walk with the exception of a more northerly starting point. As with Although the first day’s walk was any multi day walk, sound planning only six kms and less than two hours and preparation are necessary. In walking time, the reduced pack weight addition to acquiring maps, I found was a small blessing. Given the mild that aerial photographs available weather forecast (8°C/18°C) for the on Google Earth were particularly two and half days walking (2 nights) useful. Very little information in and the walk’s ‘easy’ rating, we terms of track notes was found decided that 2 litres of water per day when researching the walk but the per person ought to be adequate. With most of the valued water carefully concealed and its position marked by a GPS reading we felt confident that water for our hydration and cooking needs would be met throughout the walk.

As shown by the accompanying map, the majority of the walk is actually within the Mt William National Park. Furthermore, the Bay of Fires Johno begins at Eddystone Point meaning The Eddystone Lighthouse

26 Trailwalker Winter 2008 Bay of Fires

Just one of the many bays along the walk

Stumpys Bay, our first night’s camp, the tank states, Tank to be used for in sand dunes, shell middens are was close to the beach and as such the drinking water only - Use bore water testimony to the lengthy habitation sound of crashing surf was constant. for washing and cleaning fish. (I’m sure of this area by Aborigines. The vast Camps on both nights offered picnic that taking a fishing line could yield a number of shells (mostly molluscs) tables with seats (a rare treat for dinner or two on this walk but as my must represent thousands of years of walkers) and pit toilets. Charges apply companions are vegetarian I’ve learned good eating. and are paid using an honour system. not to mention the eating of animals!) The meeting time prearranged with By late morning, after a relaxed start Johno required that we abandoned the on the third Shell middens are day, we reached Musselroe Point testimony to the Eddystone Point. Standing tall on lengthy habitation  this headland is Top Camp Cape Naturaliste of this area by the Eddystone Aborigines. The vast Lighthouse, Stumpys Bay built in 1889, number of shells must  and its recently Boulder point represent thousands of renovated years of good eating. accompanying cottages. (www.  Mt William aussieheritage. Cod Bay The second day’s walk was long at com.au/listings/ about 15 kms (approximately six and tas/Gladstone/E ddystoneLighth Mt William a half hours walking time) and, of National Park course, our extra water was now on ouseOriginalRes Purdon Bay board making the weight of backpacks erveampSurrou greater. With Deep Creek our nds/12780) It’s Deep Creek  destination we walked out of Stumpys worth taking the Eddystone Bay past Boulder Point and along Cod time to explore Point and Purdon Bays. At the southern end the area which of Purdon Bay the Deep Creek camp is saturated is accessed by a track between some with history shacks and then at the end of Deep and offers good Ansons Bay Creek Road. The camp is sited for a photographs. It peaceful night’s rest, is well protected also offered a and offers many sites to pitch a tent. great lunch spot. Tank water is available and, being A track between cautious, we decided to purify some of the cottages Policemans Point this water in order to add to our now enabled access Bay of Fires reduced supply in case an emergency to the northern arose. Bore water is also available but end of the Bay a notice advises that it is not suitable of Fires. Spotted Download or view a Google Earth map of this hike on the for human consumption. A notice on along the coast website: www.heysentrail.asn.au/trailwalker/downloads/

Trailwalker Winter 2008 27 Bay of Fires of the most spectacular and beautiful beaches on the planet. Generally the beach sand was compacted but An historical soft sand was experienced in some note for interest areas making walking just that little bit harder. While the lack of available From The Discovery and water made planning more critical Exploration of Australia, H. J. and the weight of the pack heavier for Feekan et al, Thomas Nelson much of the walk, the Bay of Fires is (Australia) Ltd., 1970. simply a great walking experience. For anyone who has walked Tasmania’s In 1771 Furneaux was promoted South Coast Track, the beaches along to command the Adventure and the Bay of Fires are better and there is accompany Captain James Cook no Ironbound Range to cross! on his second great voyage. In • the Indian Ocean the two ships Daily Distances became separated in fog, in February 1773. The Resolution Day 1: 5.7 km under Captain James Cook sailed Day 2: 15.5 km direct to , but Day 3: 14.9 km Furneaux travelled more than Crossing a sand dune 4,000 miles by his own navigation.

… So far, he had been sailing beach walking at the northern end of in waters charted by Tasman in the Abbottsbury Peninsula and follow 1642, but on 17 March when he a track into Ansons Bay. This took had passed north of Schouten just over an hour and provided a look Island, he was penetrating into at what lay beyond the coastal sand an unknown region. Furneaux dunes. Ever-reliable Johno arrived just recorded for that day: 5 minutes after we had dropped our The country here appears to be packs and promptly offered cold beer very thickly inhabited, as there or wine all round. The day’s walking was a continual fire along the time was approximately five and half shore as we sailed … In the hours. latitude 40º 50´ South, the land Our party would have liked to trenches away to the westward, walk south along the Abbottsbury which I believe forms a deep bay, Peninsula and possibly beyond as we saw from the deck several but, unfortunately, there are no smokes arising a-back of the campsites south of Eddystone Point. islands that lay before it, when we Furthermore, I was advised by the could not see the least signs of Parks and Wildlife Service that it is not land from the mast head. possible to walk the entire coast from The captain, of course, was Stumpys to The Gardens as part of it is looking directly into Bass Strait, private property, and the lagoon mouth but its existence was not proved at Ansons Bay can be dangerous to until 1798, when Flinders and cross. Nevertheless, the part that can Bass circumnavigated Tasmania. be walked is an easy stroll along some A Bennetts wallaby visits the camp Taralee Orchards

Self contained accommodation in the Wirrabara Forest, Southern Flinders Ranges Adjacent to the Heysen Trail Close to the Mawson Trail Can accommodate up to 8 people Paul & Denise Kretschmer Ph 08 8668 4343 Email [email protected] Web www.taralee.com.au

28 Trailwalker Winter 2008 Loop Walk Involving the Heysen Trail Mt Misery Loop Walk

This issue we feature a walk from the book Push The Bush - an extremely hard walk incorporating sections of the Montacute Conservation Park and the valleys and ridges south of Kangaroo Creek reservoir and the Thomas Hill forest region. It features wonderful views over the Adelaide Plains.

Distance: 22km 10 004380 At the saddle Walk time: approx 6-7 hours (T-intersection), near the remains of a gate, look for an indistinct path straight ahead Push the Bush To drive to the start, from Montacute Road then a benched trail that contours around 15 Extended Day Walks take Corkscrew Road to the left until Valley Thomas Hill Study Centre until reaching in the Road is reached. Turn into Valley Road and a fence line. Follow fence past old green proceed to the ford, Sixth Creek. pump house ad pick up benched trail to the Editors: Mark Darter, Colin Edwards, right, eventually entering pines. Continue Julian Monfries 1 957377 Start at ford over Sixth to T-intersection, turn right Available from outdoor shops and the Creek, walking along Valley Rd and enter Friends of they Heysen Trail shop Montacute Conservation Park 11 010375 Head downhill, and just past dam take left fork through pines 2 969377 Take the first track to the meeting Mawson Trail at a fork at the head left (Heysen Trail goes straight on), and of a gully. Turn right, and then contour $29.95 uphill until meeting a T-junction on the around edge of pines until reaching the ridge (Mawson Trail) substantial track on the Gold Mine Range 3 968383 Turn right, continuing (following Mawson Trail) along the ridge. Further along, the track 12 005369 Turn right (Mawson Trail) temporarily splits - take the right fork. along Gold Mine Range until reaching gate 4 986377 Turn left (Heysen Trail) marked by a bike in a ree and a yellow car at the first crossroads, and down to a on your left. Turn left through gate campsite marked “Cudlee Creek” 13 993370 Follow upper track past 5 988382 The track bends sharp right Constitution Hill, ignore first two gates. at the campsite. 25m after the bend look At fence corner at the bottom of a short for an indistinct trail on the left, which descent, exit left through gate takes you down and across Kangaroo 14 984372 Follow track downhill, Creek. After the crossing, the trail veers left ignore sidetracks and cross creek to head and steeply uphill becoming increasingly up hill to Big Range. After a long hard indistinct. Remain on te spur until a grassy pull reach pines on ridgeline and old knoll is reached. quarry. Turn sharp right through quarry The book is A4 format, ring bound and downhill and printed on weather-resistant 6 988387 Descend to the saddle, “plastic” sheets suitable for taking but immediately at the base of the grassy 15 986358 Follow Big Range ridge line, into the field. knoll look for an an indistinct track to the ignoring side tracks until reaching gate on We’ve all heard about the ‘long left that cross the wall of a small dam. final grassy knoll Continue up the track to a saddle before lunch’–the extension of time for spot height 528m - a good place for 16 963375 Follow the fence a short recreation and pleasure. Now it’s morning tea. Turn right along the track and distance north through blackberries, the ‘long day-walk’. It’s not a new through a gate uphill to Mt Misery trig. then pick up an indistinct foot pad WNW concept, but a book of long walks down an open spur (look for intermittent around Adelaide is new, and it’s 7 993391 From Mt Misery, follow the yellow markers). On reaching the fire exciting. defined track southeast, keeping the fence track, descend until fire track turns a right on your left. At the second saddle, the track This book of fifteen long day-walks and 50m past a smal flat area is reached is unique. None of the walks take forks, and a third (little used) track can be leave track and bush bash downhill to less than five hours to complete found on your right. Valley Rpoad (again look for foot pads and and some much longer. Some intermittent yellow markers) 8 001389 Take the little used track, walks are in a figure 8 and so allow whih becomes increasingly steep, until 17 960378 Turn left to return to for a shorter walk too. All walks emerging at a dam. Cross the wall to join Sixth Creek are located within an easy hour the main valley track (Heysen Trail) and a half distance by car from Adelaide city. 9 999384 Turn left and uphill towards Thomas Hill. The track eventually swings See map overleaf steeply south at a T-intersection and the Heysen Trail heads north

Trailwalker Winter 2008 29 Mt Misery Loop Walk 11 12 10 8 9 7 13 6 5 4 15 14 3 2 16 17 1

30 Trailwalker Winter 2008 Walking Holidays with the Friends of the Heysen Trail

Southern Tasmania New Zealand Grand Traverse Hurry! Bookings with Exploranges Closing Soon with Kirra Tours Mon 1st Dec to Fri 12 Dec 2008 Ex Adelaide 7th to 16th March 2009 $2,250 ex Hobart $2,670 including airfares Day walking Mt Field, Tasman Peninsula, 75km combining the Alpine scenery of the Routeburn Bruny Island and South East Cape. Track with the tranquility of the Greenstone Valley. Price includes meals and accommodation. Fully guided, staying in lodges with all meals provided. Contact Exploranges Bushwalking Tours Contact KTI Travel on 1800 007 373 on (08) 8369 1779 and quote reference number 28PPJ

ALPANA STATION

5km from Blinman in the Flinders Nungawurtina Hut & Trail Ranges, Alpana Station offers: An easy 2 day walk alternative for not-so- • A passenger transport service to active walkers... Wilpena, Blinman, Heysen Trail head for walkers (individuals or groups) Stay a night or two in a new replica pine & pug shepherd’s hut en-route from Alpana • Quality self-contained accommodation to the Blinman Pools and Angorichina for up to 14 people suitable for walkers, Tourist Village to be picked up and returned artists, nature groups etc to Alpana. • Ensuite bathroom facilities for OR caravans/campers 4WDrive:- Drive yourself or be transported to Nungawurtina Hut and experience a true • Bush camping areas Flinders retreat in a scenic and serene setting. Suitable for up to 6 people.

Contact Details Postal address: PO Box 11, Blinman SA 5730 Phone or fax: 08 8648 4626 Email: [email protected] Website: www.alpana-station.netfi rms.com

Trailwalker Winter 2008 31 Bookings Essential WALKING & TREKKING WALKINGIN EUROPE & TREKKING Departing INAdelaide EUROPE 11 September 08 Departing Adelaide 11 September 08

Mont Blanc Trek with anMont option to extendBlanc to an 8 dayTrek walk in the with an optionbeautiful to extend region ofto Burgundyan 8 day walk in the beautiful region of Burgundy Mt Blanc Burgundy Discover the charms of old world A stunningMt Blanc 8 day trek Burgundy Burgundy, history, stunning aroundA stunning western 8 Europe’sday trek Discover the charms of old world scenery, and the world’s finest highestaround peak western with Europe’sspectacu- Burgundy, history, stunning . wines await discovery. highestlar Alpine peak with scenery spectacu- scenery, and the world’s finest lar Alpine scenery. wines await discovery.

There is the option to do the Mt Blanc trek only on this tour

Then on to Paris Therefor 2 nights is the for option some s tohop doping, the sightseeing Mt Blanc and trek a onlyfarewell on thisdinner. tour The tour ends on 30 September in Paris or you can extend your time in or Europe. Then on to Paris for 2 nights for some shopping, sightseeing and a farewell dinner. The tour ends on 30 September in Paris or you can extend your time in France or Europe. For more information or to book, please contact Leonie or Monica at Peregrine Travel Ph: 08 8223 5905, Fax: 8223 5347 or Email: [email protected] For more information or to book, please contact Leonie or Monica at Peregrine Travel Ph: 08 8223 5905, Fax: 8223 5347 or Email: [email protected]

32 Trailwalker Winter 2008