How to Feel Like a Hawaii Family Maybe

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1 How to Feel Like a Hawaii Family

Maybe the two of you visited Hawaii B.C. (Before Children), or maybe a trip to Hawaii has been the dream for years. There’s no place on earth quite like this handful of sun-drenched mid-Pacific islands. The Hawaii of South Seas literature and Holly- wood films really does exist. Here you’ll find palm-fringed blue lagoons, lush rainforests, hidden gardens, cascading waterfalls, wild rivers running through rugged canyons, and volcanoes soaring 2 miles into the sky. And oh, those beaches—gold, red, black, and even green sands caressed by an endless surf. The possibilities for adventure—and relaxation—are endless. Each of the six main islands is distinct and infinitely complex. There’s far too much to see and do on a 2-week vacation, which is why so many people return to the Aloha State year after year. As a nearly lifelong Hawaii resident, I’m letting you in on some of the secrets that Hawaii families enjoy. We live here because of the beauty, culture, and lifestyle of these precious islands. You don’t have to be rich to live in Hawaii (although, as my mother says, “It sure helps”), to enjoy a quiet early morning walk on the beach just as the sun lights up the turquoise water, to smell the sweet fragrance of just-blooming ginger, or to hear the thundering music of a waterfall. Hawaii can be a place that teaches your kids to enjoy the richness of their senses, from the vibrant colors of a rainbow to the smell of a bamboo forest just after an afternoon rain squall. Hawaii can also be a place of adventure, the opportunity for you and your children to try new things: snorkel in warm tropical waters filled with neon-colored fish; coast down a dormant (but not extinct) volcano; silently glide over calm waters in a double kayak; or soar through the air, stopping to hover over an exploding volcano in a helicopter. Even the word “Hawaii” conjures magic the world over, not only for the incredible beauty here but also for the culture and the lifestyle. This is a land founded by people who had immense respect for the island and the ocean. Their creed was a lifestyle of harmony and generous sharing. Millions of visitors flock to these islands every year because withCOPYRIGHTED all that’s going on in the world today, MATERIAL they hunger for this harmony and generosity, which in Hawaii is referred to as the “aloha spirit.” All is not perfect in paradise. It is expensive in Hawaii: The islands sit in the mid- dle of the Pacific, the most remote island chain in the world, and everything that is not grown or produced here has to be shipped or flown in—so be prepared to pay more. And despite being part of the United States, things are definitely done differ- ently in Hawaii—that’s why you’ve shelled out the money to give your family an opportunity to experience life here. 04_053973 ch01.qxp 1/9/07 11:23 PM Page 2

2 CHAPTER 1 . HOW TO FEEL LIKE A HAWAII FAMILY

When in Hawaii . . .

Hawaii loves travelers—they are the main industry, and a majority of Hawaii residents earn their living in the tourism industry or an industry closely con- nected to it. I love to pretend I’m a visitor when I travel around the state. Visitors are taken good care of and are treated like guests. Still, if you want to do as the Hawaiians do while you’re in Hawaii, below are some helpful tips to help you blend in a little better: • Do not buy matching outfits. It has always puzzled me that seemingly normal people come to Hawaii and feel that the entire family has to be dressed in a carbon-copy set of aloha wear: matching aloha shirts for the boys that perfectly match the baggy muumuu for the girls. Look around: Do you see troops of families in replica outfits? That’s not to say that you can’t outfit your family in aloha wear—just let each individual pick their own outfit. • Prepare for a variety of weather. In addition to the shorts and T-shirts you throw in the suitcase, pack some clothes to keep you warm, especially if you plan to visit the mountains in Hawaii. Yes, even in summer, it is cold atop the mountains. At the ocean, after the sun sets, the temperature can drop and the wind can pick up. Whenever I’m at a sunset event on the ocean, I can always pick out the locals: They are the ones carrying sweaters because they know how the temperatures drop an hour after sunset.

Part of raising a family is building memories that will last a lifetime. A trip to Hawaii will create memories not only of what you did, but of a lifestyle—the way people related to each other, the way the ocean smelled in the early morning, the way the stars glittered at night, the way the multicolored flowers looked in the full sun, and the time your family spent in a very special place. GETTING THE MOST you’re in Hawaii, try to do things unique OUT OF THIS BOOK to Hawaii. The purposes of this book are to help vis- There are lots of islands in Hawaii, and itors get the most out of their trip to each is unique. Read through each island Hawaii and to update local residents who chapter before you decide which island want a refresher on all the activities for will best suit your family. Remember: Do families. You won’t find a lot of historical not try to do more than one island a information or social commentary here. week; if you do, you’ll have a vacation in What you will find is opinions on the interisland terminals instead of on beauti- best places for families to stay, restaurants ful beaches. The islands are far apart and that welcome children, and a range of it takes a full day to check out of your activities for all ages. I have purposely left hotel, fly to another island, and check out many chain restaurants and shops into a new hotel. that your hometown may already have. Once you decide which island you will You can go to them any time—while explore, have a family planning session 04_053973 ch01.qxp 1/9/07 11:23 PM Page 3

THE BEST HAWAII EXPERIENCES 3

• Drive with aloha. Hawaiians probably drive slower than elsewhere, give way to other drivers, and never, never (never) use horns to signal dissat- isfaction with another driver. (The only time locals use their horns is to greet someone they know.) And one more thing: If you are sightseeing and driving slowly, look in your rearview mirror to see if you are holding up traffic—if so, please pull over and let the cars go by. • Be friendly. Reach your hand out and greet everyone. Local residents say, “How-zit?” meaning “Hello, how are you?” Tell people your name and ask for theirs. • Get out of resort areas and explore. Resorts are fabulous, but there is so much more to Hawaii. Rent a car and get out and drive. Stop along the way, talk to local residents, ask them what their favorite beach for snorkeling is, where they love to eat, and what they’d do if they had a day off. • Be appreciative. Hawaii locals just love compliments. If you like the store, restaurant, activity, even your hotel room—tell the management. People in Hawaii are long on appreciation and admiration and short on criticism (even constructive criticism). • Smile. You’re in Hawaii and it’s warm and beautiful—there’s a lot to smile about.

and choose the major things you want to two time zones from the U.S. West Coast see and do. Don’t plan any more than one (three time zones during daylight saving major activity a day, and leave at least a time), but there’s a huge change in cli- couple of days wide open. Pinpoint activ- mate and temperature. Plan nothing on ities on a map—does your plan make the day you arrive, except checking into sense or are you crisscrossing the island your hotel, maybe some beach time, an unnecessarily? If you’re on Oahu and early dinner (remember the time change), driving to the Polynesian Cultural Cen- and an early bedtime. Once you’re ready ter, for example, perhaps you can plan a to see the sights, be flexible. stop at the North Shore for a picnic So let’s get started with planning the lunch. vacation of your dreams. For those too When you arrive, allow yourself, espe- excited to page through from beginning cially the kids, time to recover from jet to end, this chapter highlights the very lag. Not only is Hawaii 2,500 miles and best Hawaii has to offer.

1 The Best Hawaii Experiences • Hitting the Beach: A beach is a miles, Hawaii has beaches in all dif- beach is a beach, right? Not in ferent shapes, sizes, and colors, Hawaii. With 132 islets, shoals, and including black. The variety on the reefs, and a general coastline of 750 six major islands is astonishing; you 04_053973 ch01.qxp 1/9/07 11:23 PM Page 4

4 CHAPTER 1 . HOW TO FEEL LIKE A HAWAII FAMILY could go to a different beach every Memorial; World War II came to an day for years and still not see them end on the deck of this 58,000-ton all. For the best of a spectacular battleship with the signing of the bunch, see “The Best Beaches for Japanese surrender on September 2, Families,” later in this chapter. 1945. See p. 122. • Taking the Plunge: Don mask, fin, • Watching for Whales: If you happen and snorkel and explore the magical to be in Hawaii during humpback- world beneath the surface, where whale season (roughly Dec–Apr), you’ll find exotic corals and kaleido- don’t miss the opportunity to see scopic clouds of tropical fish; a sea these gentle giants. A host of boats— turtle may even come over to check from small inflatables to high-tech, you out. Can’t swim? That’s no high-speed sailing catamarans—offer excuse—take one of the many sub- a range of whale-watching cruises on marine tours offered by Atlantis every island. One of my favorites is Adventures (& 800/548-6262; www. along the Big Island’s Kona coast, atlantisadventures.com) on Oahu, where Captain Dan McSweeney’s the Big Island, and Maui. See chap- Whale-Watch Learning Adventures ters 3, 4, and 5. (& 888/WHALE-6 or 808/322- • Meeting Local Folks: If you go to 0028; www.ilovewhales.com) takes Hawaii and see only people like the you right to the whales year-round. ones back home, you might as well (Pilot, sperm, false killer, melon- not have come. Extend yourself— headed, pygmy killer, and beaked leave your hotel, go out and meet the whales call Hawaii home even when locals, and learn about Hawaii and its humpbacks aren’t in residence.) A people. Just smile and say “How- whale researcher for more than 25 zit?”—which means “How is it?” years, Captain Dan frequently drops (“It’s good,” is the usual response)— an underwater microphone or video and you’ll usually make a new friend. camera into the depths so you can lis- Hawaii is remarkably cosmopolitan; ten to whale songs and maybe actu- every ethnic group in the world ally see what’s going on. See p. 222. seems to be represented here. There’s • Creeping Up to the Ooze (Big a huge diversity of food, culture, lan- Island): Kilauea volcano has been guage, and customs. adding land to the Big Island contin- • Feeling History Come Alive at uously since 1983. If conditions are Pearl Harbor (Oahu): The United right, you can walk up to the red-hot States could turn its back on World lava and see it ooze along, or you can War II no longer after December 7, stand at the shoreline and watch with 1941, when Japanese warplanes awe as 2,000°F (1,092°C) molten fire bombed Pearl Harbor. Standing on pours into the ocean. You can also the deck of the USS Arizona Memo- take to the air in a helicopter and rial (& 808/422-0561; www.nps.gov/ see the volcano goddess’s work from usar)—the eternal tomb of the 1,177 above. See “Hawaii Volcanoes sailors and Marines trapped below National Park” under section 5, when the battleship sank in just 9 “Exploring the Big Island with Your minutes—is a moving experience Kids,” in chapter 4. you’ll never forget. Also in Pearl Har- • Greeting the Rising Sun from atop bor, you can visit the USS Missouri Haleakala (Maui): Bundle up in 04_053973 ch01.qxp 1/9/07 11:23 PM Page 5

THE BEST HAWAII EXPERIENCES 5 warm clothing, fill a Thermos with • Watching Rainbows at a Waterfall: hot chocolate, and drive to the sum- Rushing waterfalls thundering down- mit to watch the sky turn from inky ward into sparkling freshwater pools black to muted charcoal as a small are some of Hawaii’s most beautiful sliver of orange light forms on the natural wonders. If you’re on the Big horizon. There’s something about Island, stop by Rainbow Falls standing at 10,000 feet, breathing in (p. 212) in Hilo, or the spectacular the rarefied air, and watching the first 442-foot Akaka Falls (p. 207), just rays of sun streak across the sky. This outside the city. On Maui, the road is a mystical experience of the first to Hana offers numerous viewing magnitude. See “House of the Sun: opportunities. At the end of the Haleakala National Park” under drive, you’ll find Oheo Gulch (also “Exploring Maui with Your Kids,” in known as the Seven Sacred Pools), chapter 5. with some of the most dramatic and • Taking a Day Trip to Lanai (Maui): accessible waterfalls on the islands. If you’d like to visit Lanai but have (See “Tropical Haleakala: Oheo only a day to spare, consider taking a Gulch at Kipahulu” under “Explor- day trip. Trilogy (& 888/MAUI- ing Maui with Your Kids,” in chap- 800; www.sailtrilogy.com) offers an ter 5.) Kauai is loaded with waterfalls, all-day sailing, snorkeling, and whale- especially along the North Shore and watching adventure. Trilogy is the in the Wailua area, where you’ll find only outfitter with rights to Hulupoe 40-foot Opaekaa Falls, probably the Beach, and the trip includes a mini- best-looking drive-up waterfall on van tour of the little isle (pop. 3,500). Kauai. (See “Wailua River State Park” See p. 293. You can also take Expedi- under “Exploring Kauai with Your tions Lahaina/Lanai Ferry (& 800/ Kids,” in chapter 8.) With scenic 695-2624; www.go-lanai.com) from mountain peaks in the background Maui to Lanai, then rent a four- and a restored Hawaiian village on wheel-drive vehicle from Dollar the nearby river banks, the Opaekaa Rent-A-Car (& 800/588-7808) for Falls are what the tourist-bureau folks a day of backcountry exploring and call an eye-popping photo op. beach fun. See p. 48. • Smelling the Flowers in a Tropical • Soaring Over the Na Pali Coast Garden: The islands are redolent (Kauai): This is the only way to see with the sweet scent of flowers. For a the spectacular, surreal beauty of glimpse of the full breadth and Kauai. Your helicopter will dip low beauty of Hawaii’s spectacular range over razor-thin cliffs, flutter past of tropical flora, I suggest spending a sparkling waterfalls, and swoop down few hours at a lush garden. Two trop- into the canyons and valleys of the ical havens not to be missed on the fabled Na Pali Coast. The only prob- Big Island include the 40-acre lem is that there’s too much beauty to Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden absorb, and it all goes by in a rush. (p. 207), featuring 1,800 species of See “Helicopter Rides over Waimea tropical plants, and the World Canyon & the Na Pali Coast” under Botanical Garden (p. 208), showcas- “Exploring Kauai with Your Kids,” in ing some 5,000 species. Liliuokalani chapter 8. 04_053973 ch01.qxp 1/9/07 11:23 PM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . HOW TO FEEL LIKE A HAWAII FAMILY Gardens (p. 209), the largest formal beds, reminds everyone who sees it of Japanese garden this side of Tokyo, Arizona’s Grand Canyon. Kauai’s ver- resembles a postcard from Asia, with sion is bursting with ever-changing bonsai, carp ponds, pagodas, and a color, just like its namesake, but it’s moon gate bridge. On lush Kauai, Na smaller—only a mile wide, 3,567 feet Aina Kai Botanical Gardens deep, and 12 miles long. This (p. 390), about 240 acres in size, is grandeur was created by a massive sprinkled with some 70 life-size earthquake that sent streams flowing (some larger than life-size) whimsical into a single river, which then carved bronze statues, hidden off the beaten this picturesque canyon. You can stop path of the North Shore. by the road and look at it, hike down • Exploring The Grand Canyon of the into it, or swoop through it by heli- Pacific—Waimea Canyon (Kauai): copter. See p. 383. This valley, known for its reddish lava 2 The Best Ways to Enjoy Hawaiian Culture • Experiencing the Hula: For a real, • Listening to Old-Fashioned “Talk authentic hula experience on Oahu, Story” with Hawaiian Song and check out the Bishop Museum Dance (Big Island): Once a month, (p. 117), which has excellent per- under a full moon, “Twilight at formances on weekdays. The first Kalahuipua’a,” a celebration of the week after Easter brings Hawaii’s Hawaiian culture that includes story- biggest and most prestigious hula telling, singing, and dancing, takes extravaganza, the Merrie Monarch place oceanside at Mauna Lani Resort Hula Festival (p. 234), at Hilo on (& 808/885-6622; www.maunalani the Big Island; tickets sell out by Jan- culture.org/twilight). It hearkens uary 30, so reserve early. In May, back to another time in Hawaii, there’s the Molokai Ka Hula Piko when family and neighbors would (p. 26), at Molokai’s Papohaku Beach gather on back porches to sing, Park, a wonderful daylong festival dance, and “talk story.” See “Old- that celebrates the hula on the island Style Hawaiian Entertainment” on where it was born. p. 235. • Buying a Lei in Chinatown (Oahu): • Visiting Ancient Hawaii’s Most There’s actually a host of cultural Sacred Temple (Big Island): On the sights and experiences to be had in Kohala coast, where King Kame- Honolulu’s Chinatown. Wander hameha the Great was born, stands through this several-square-block area Hawaii’s oldest, largest, and most with its jumble of exotic shops offer- sacred religious site: the 1,500-year- ing herbs, Chinese groceries, and old Mookini Heiau, used by kings to acupuncture services. Before you pray and offer human sacrifices. This leave, be sure to check out the lei sell- massive three-story stone temple, ers on Maunakea Street (near N. dedicated to Ku, the Hawaiian god of Hotel St.), where Hawaii’s finest leis war, was erected in A.D. 480. It’s said go for as little as $4. If you’d like a lit- that each stone was passed from hand tle guidance, follow the recommen- to hand from Pololu Valley, 14 miles dations in “Shopping with Your away, by 18,000 men who worked Kids” in chapter 3. from sunset to sunrise. The best way 04_053973 ch01.qxp 1/9/07 11:23 PM Page 7

THE BEST HOTEL BETS 7 to see this sacred site is to help out • Visiting the Most Hawaiian Isle: A with the monthly cleanups when the time capsule of Old Hawaii, Molokai Kahuna Nui, Momi Mo’okini Lum, allows you to experience real Hawai- is on-site. See p. 203. ian life in its most unsullied form. • Exploring Puuhonua O Honaunau The island’s people have woven the National Historical Park (Big cultural values of ancient times into Island): This sacred site on the south modern life. In addition to this rich Kona coast was once a place of refuge community, you’ll find the magnifi- and a revered place of rejuvenation. cent natural wonders it so cherishes: You can walk the same consecrated Hawaii’s highest waterfall, its greatest grounds where priests once con- collection of fishponds, and the ducted holy ceremonies, and glimpse world’s tallest sea cliffs, as well as sand the ancient way of life in precontact dunes, coral reefs, rainforests, and Hawaii in the re-created 180-acre vil- gloriously empty beaches. The island lage. See p. 199. is pretty much the same Molokai of generations ago. See chapter 6.

3 The Best Hotel Bets • Most Family Friendly: There is no Hilton Hawaiian Village and located contest. On the Big Island, Four within walking distance of Waikiki Seasons Resort Hualalai at Historic Beach. At this small boutique hotel, Kaupulehu (& 888/340-5662; you get comfortable rooms and the www.fourseasons.com) not only kind of prompt service that you usu- offers a relaxing vacation in the lap of ally receive only at twice the price. luxury, but the staff goes above and (Rack rates here start at $159.) See beyond its duties to pamper your p. 87. On the Big Island of Hawaii, kids. You can’t get any better than the best deal is the oceanfront Kona this—everything from a complimen- Tiki Hotel (& 808/329-1425; tary children’s program, something www.konatiki.com). Its tastefully for the teenagers, and kid-friendly decorated rooms, with private lanais restaurants. See p. 170. overlooking the ocean, start at just • When Price is No Object: No $66 a night! Although it’s called a question about it: the Halekulani hotel, this small, family-run opera- (& 800/367-2343; www.haleku- tion is more like a large B&B, with lani.com) is an oasis of calm amid the plenty of friendly conversation buzz. This beach hotel is the finest around the pool at the morning con- Waikiki has to offer. (Heck, I think tinental breakfast buffet. See p. 174. it’s the finest in the state.) The com- • Best Suite Deals: The standout is plimentary children’s program is tops, Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui (& 800/ the rooms are practically suites, and 659-4100; www.kealani.com). This the service is superb. is the place to get your money’s • When Price is Your Main Objec- worth; for the price of a hotel room tive: I recommend two places. On you get an entire suite—plus a few Oahu, the Doubletree Alana Hotel– extras. Each unit in this all-suite lux- Waikiki (& 800/222-TREE; www. ury hotel has a kitchenette, a living alana-doubletree.com) is run by the room with entertainment center and 04_053973 ch01.qxp 1/9/07 11:23 PM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . HOW TO FEEL LIKE A HAWAII FAMILY sofa bed, an oversize marble bath- princeville.com) on Kauai is set in room with separate shower big one of the most remarkable locations enough for a party, a spacious bed- in the world, on a cliff between the room, and a large lanai that overlooks crystal-blue waters of Hanalei Bay the pools, lawns, and white-sand and steepled mountains; you arrive beach. See p. 255. on the ninth floor and go down to • Most Peace and Quiet: Head out to the beach. This palace of green mar- the North Shore on Oahu for the ble and sparkling chandeliers recalls Turtle Bay Resort (& 800/203- Hawaii’s monarchy period of the 3650; www.turtlebayresort.com). 19th century. Opulent rooms with The resort is spectacular: an hour’s magnificent views, a great children’s drive from Waikiki, but eons away in program, and all the activities of its country feeling. Sitting on 808 Princeville and Hanalei make this acres, this place is loaded with activi- one of Hawaii’s finest resorts. See ties and 5 miles of shoreline with p. 366. secluded white-sand coves. All the • Best Beach: A tough category with rooms have great views, there are tons so many contenders, but I’m going of activities for the keiki (children), with the golden sand and generally and there’s even a romantic restaurant calm waters in front of Maui’s Four for an adults’ night out. See p. 99. Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea • Most Hawaiian: Nestled into the (& 800/334-MAUI; www.four older section at the north end of the seasons.com/maui) This is the ulti- resort area, the Kaanapali Beach mate beach hotel for latter-day royals, Hotel (& 800/262-8450; www.kbh- with excellent cuisine, spacious maui.com), has an irresistible local rooms, gracious service, and beautiful style and a real Hawaiian warmth Wailea Beach. The most kid-friendly that’s missing from many other, more hotel on Maui not only offers a com- modern hotels. Old Hawaii values plimentary kids’ program year-round and customs are always close at hand, and an everyday activities center and the service is some of the friend- (daily 9am–5pm), but also makes the liest around. Children ages 5 and children feel welcome with extras younger eat free and kids ages 6 to 12 such as complimentary milk and can order from the special discounted cookies on their first day. Children’s kids’ menu. As part of the hotel’s menus are offered at all resort restau- extensive Hawaiiana program, you rants and even from room service. and your kids can learn to cut See p. 255. pineapple, weave lauhala, or even • Best Fitness Center & Spa: On dance the real hula. There’s also an Maui, Spa Grande at the Grand arts-and-crafts fair 3 days a week, a Wailea Resort Hotel & Spa (& 800/ morning welcome reception on 888-6100; www.grandwailea.com) is weekdays, and a Hawaiian library. Hawaii’s biggest spa, at 50,000 square Just opened is Kupanaha, a gourmet feet, with 40 treatment rooms. The dinner show with world renowned spa incorporates the best of the Old magicians. See p. 249. World (romantic ceiling murals, • Best Views: Every view in Hawaii is larger-than-life Roman-style sculp- terrific, but on Kauai the Princeville tures, mammoth Greek columns, at Hanalei (& 800/826-4400; www. 04_053973 ch01.qxp 1/9/07 11:23 PM Page 9

THE BEST DINING BETS 9 huge European tubs); the finest East- spa, with its floor-to-ceiling glass ern traditions (a full Japanese-style walls looking out on tropical plants, traditional bath and various exotic combines Hawaiian products with treatments from India); and the lure traditional therapies to produce some of the islands (tropical foliage, of the best water treatments in the ancient Hawaiian treatments, and state. You’ll also find a fitness center, island products). This spa has every- tennis courts, and a bevy of aerobic thing, from a top fitness center to a and stretching classes. See p. 99. menu of classes, and is constantly on • Best Room Service: Oahu’s the cutting edge of the latest trends. Hilton Hawaiian Village Beach See p. 256. On Kauai, the luxurious Resort & Spa (& 800/HILTONS; ANARA Spa at the Grand Hyatt www.hawaiianvillage.hilton.com) on Kauai Resort & Spa (& 800/55- Waikiki Beach not only has a great HYATT or 808/742-1234; www. menu and prompt room service, but kauai.hyatt.com) is the place to get the entire megaresort is kid-friendly. rid of stress and be soothed and pam- The Rainbow Express is the Hilton’s pered in a Hawaiian atmosphere, year-round daily program of activities where the spirit of aloha reigns. An for children 5 to 12. Wildlife parades elegant 25,000-square-foot spa, about the restaurants, where kids 4 to ANARA (A New Age Restorative 11 eat free. See p. 85. Approach) focuses on Hawaiian cul- • Best Lagoon: My pick is Oahu’s ture and healing, with some 16 treat- Kahala Hotel & Resort (& 800/ ment rooms, a lap pool, fitness 367-2525; www.kahalaresort.com). facilities, lava rock showers that The lush, tropical grounds at this open to the tropical air, outdoor resort far from Waikiki include an whirlpools, a 24-head Swiss shower, 800-foot crescent-shaped beach and a Turkish steam rooms, Finnish saunas, 26,000-square-foot lagoon (home to and botanical soaking tubs. See two bottle-nosed dolphins, sea tur- p. 357. And, on Oahu, Ihilani Spa at tles, and tropical fish). Views from the JW Marriott Ihilani Resort & the floor-to-ceiling sliding-glass Spa at Ko Olina (& 800/626-4446; doors are of the ocean, Diamond www.ihilani.com), is an oasis by the Head, and Koko Head. The resort sea. This freestanding, 35,000- offers a “keiki club” for kids, with square-foot facility is dedicated to the activities ranging from lei making to traditional spa definition of “health snorkeling. See p. 96. by water.” The modern, multistoried

4 The Best Dining Bets • Most Kid-Friendly Service: Hoku’s welcomed at David Paul’s Lahaina (& 808/739-8780), at Oahu’s Kahala Grill (& 808/667-5117), a gourmet Mandarin, is elegant without being eatery which offers a great kid’s menu stuffy, and creative without being with a kid’s soup or salad of the day, overwrought. The staff at this fine- fried chicken strips, corndog or dining room treats kids like mahi and shrimp, as well as desserts princesses and princes. See p. 113. (ice cream and chocolate cake). See On Maui, the kids will be graciously p. 263. 04_053973 ch01.qxp 1/9/07 11:23 PM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . HOW TO FEEL LIKE A HAWAII FAMILY • Best Kids’ Menu: Bev Gannon, one Halekulani is the only AAA Five- of the 12 original Hawaiian Regional Diamond restaurant in the state. See Cuisine chefs, is raising the next gen- p. 100. Also on Oahu, another great eration of “foodies” at her gourmet “date-night” rendezvous is Chef haven in the pineapple fields of Maui Mavro Restaurant (& 808/944- at the Haliimaile General Store 4714), where wine pairings perfectly (& 808/572-2666). Kids eat just as match the elegant cuisine of (James well as their parents when ordering Beard–award-winner) Chef George from the creative kids’ menu. See Mavrothalassitis. See p. 110. It’s p. 270. On Oahu, comfort food for worth a drive to the North Shore keiki can be found at the Dixie Grill for the romantic atmosphere and (& 808/596-8359), where the all- first-rate food of 21 Degrees North American menu features barbecued (& 800/203-3650), in the Turtle ribs, burgers, shrimp, salads, sand- Bay Resort. See p. 115. On Maui, I’d wiches, and the “star” of the bargain- suggest Vino (& 808/661-VINO), priced kids’ menu: finger-lickin’ serving the best Italian food on Maui barbecued chicken. See p. 106. at an exquisite location overlooking • Best Views: In Hawaii, views gener- the rolling hills of the Kapalua Golf ally translate into “ocean views,” and Course. It is run by the team of D. K. you can’t get any closer to the ocean Kodama, chef and owner of Sansei on the Big Island of Hawaii than Seafood Restaurants and Sushi Bar Huggo’s (& 808/329-1493) or (p. 267); and master sommelier Pahu i’a (& 808/325-8000) at the Chuck Furuya. See p. 268. On Hualalai Four Seasons Resort. It Kauai, book Dondero’s (& 808/ helps that both restaurants can hold 742-1234) in the Kauai Hyatt your attention by their food alone Regency before you leave home to without that distracting ocean view. insure a starlight table overlooking See p. 184 and 183. On Kauai, The the ocean. See p. 371. Beach House (& 808/742-1424), • Best Burgers: The winners of this which sits right on a promontory highly competitive category are the with a 180-degree ocean view, also juicy burgers at Oahu’s two Kua Aina serves excellent cuisine. See p. 371. locations (& 808/591-9133 in • Best Decor: The favorite decor from Ward Village, or 808/637-6067 in a kid’s point of view has to be at Sam Haleiwa); and Lahaina’s Cheese- Choy’s Breakfast, Lunch Crab & burger in Paradise (& 808/661- Big Aloha Brewery (& 808/545- 4855) on Maui. See p. 116 and 265. 7979), where an all-wood sampan On Kauai, it’s a tie between Bubba (the centerpiece of the 11,000-sq.-ft. Burgers (& 808/823-0069) and restaurant) commands attention. The Duane’s Ono-Char Burger (& 808/ kids can wash their hands in an over- 822-9181). See p. 376 and 377. size wok at the center of the room. • Best Outdoor Setting: You can’t beat Plus a 2,000-gallon live-crab tank the beachside location under the lines the open kitchen with an assort- spreading tree at the Hau Tree Lanai ment of crabs in season. See p. 110. (& 808/921-7066), at the New • Best if You Have a Sitter: The Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel on the romantic, elegant dining room at La outskirts of Waikiki. See p. 101. On Mer (& 808/923-2311) in Waikiki’s Kauai, the lush garden setting in the 04_053973 ch01.qxp 1/9/07 11:23 PM Page 11

THE BEST DINING BETS 11 Poipu Resort area at Plantation Gar- moderately priced, this dim sum, dens (& 808/742-2216) beckons Hong Kong–style restaurant is per- even the most jaded (seen-it-all) fect for a family lunch. See p. 107. teenager. See p. 372. • Best Hawaiian Regional Cuisine: • Best Breakfast: In Waikiki, there’s no The masters of Hawaiian Regional question that the winner is the Cuisine include Alan Wong’s quirky, late-night and morning eatery Restaurant (& 808/949-2526) on Eggs ’n Things (& 808/949-0820), Oahu; Merriman’s Market Café with huge, huge breakfasts and never- (& 808/886-1700) on the Big ending coffee refills. See p. 103. On Island; and Roy’s Restaurant the Big Island, the Coffee Shack (& 808/396-7697) on Oahu, Kauai, (& 808/328-9555) overlooking Maui, and the Big Island. Any of Kealakekua Bay and coffee fields, is these great places will introduce you the place for the most ono (delicious) to the unique blends of Hawaii’s fresh breakfast. See p. 186. produce, fish, and meats in this well- • Best Brunch: Not only a winner in loved cuisine. See p. 111, 189, and terms of best food, best display of 114, respectively. food, and best variety of food, but • Best Pizza: This is another hotly also the winner of great views at contested category with many great brunch (Waikiki Beach) and best places to choose from. On the Big brunch decor is Orchids (& 808/ Island, head to Basil’s Pizzeria 923-2311) at the very plush Haleku- (& 808/326-7836), where sauce is lani. See p. 101. the thing. See p. 185. On Maui, my • Best Milkshakes: Kids will love the two favorite picks are Nicky’s Pizza giant milkshakes at Ken’s House of (& 808/667-0333) and Shaka Pancakes (& 808/935-8711) in Sandwich & Pizza (& 808/874- Hilo on the Big Island, the only 0331) for perfect crusts. See p. 266 24-hour restaurant on that island. and 269. And on Kauai, Brick Oven See p. 194. On Kauai, the small road- Pizza (& 808/332-8561) still makes side stand called Banana Joe’s pizza the old-fashioned way. See (& 808/828-1092) offers creamy p. 373. smoothies made of just-picked tropi- • Best Pasta: There’s great pasta in cal fruit. See p. 408. Hawaii, but the two standouts are • Best Japanese: Pushing the envelope C & C Pasta (& 808/732-5999) on of Japanese food (and with a touch of Oahu and Pomodoro (& 808/332- Pacific Regional) is Kenichi Pacific 5945) on Kauai. See p. 112 and 373. (& 808/322-6400), in Kona on the • Best Mexican: Norberto’s El Café Big Island. The appetizers menu is so (& 808/822-3362) on Kauai has tempting, your kids might just want been serving lard-free Mexican for to graze from one dish to the next. nearly a generation. See p. 377. In See p. 185. For more traditional Waimea on the Big Island, the tiny Japanese food, try Miyo’s (& 808/ Tako Taco Taquería (& 808/887- 935-2273), in Hilo, where children’s 1717) pumps out healthy Mexican at portions are half price. See p. 194. wallet-pleasing prices. See p. 191. • Best Chinese: The kids will vote for And on Maui, although Mañana Panda Cuisine (& 808/947-1688) Garage (& 808/873-0220) can’t on Oahu every time. Quick, easy, and really be classified as “true” Mexican 04_053973 ch01.qxp 1/9/07 11:23 PM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . HOW TO FEEL LIKE A HAWAII FAMILY (in fact, it defies classification in any • Best Delivery: On Oahu, you are no category), the eclectic cuisine here longer limited by the room service (not to mention the very oddball menu in your hotel room. Room decor) will make your kids smile. See Service in Paradise (& 808/941- p. 262. DINE; www.rsiponline.com) is the • Best for Feeding Large Families: In answer to a parent’s prayers. They terms of getting your money’s worth deliver almost a dozen different of good food at bargain prices, head cuisines (from American/Pacific Rim to the Olive Tree Café (& 808/ to Italian to sandwiches and burgers) 737-0303) on Oahu to take out or from 50 different restaurants to your eat at the outdoor tables. See p. 114. hotel room. See p. 101. On Maui, two fabulous budget-price • Best Takeout: On Oahu, great grinds eateries for large families are AK’s (food) can be had from Honolulu’s Café (& 808/244-8774) and Moana Kaka’ako Kitchen (& 808/596- Bakery & Cafe (& 808/579-9999). 7488). See p. 107. From the other See p. 262 and 271. side of the island, Kailua’s Good to • Best Fresh Fish: Mama’s Fish House Go (& 808/266-4646) offers healthy (& 808/579-8488) in Kuau on takeout food, perfect for the beach. Maui is synonymous with excellent See p. 115. fish. (Even the kids get fresh fish on • Best Diner: Maui has the best diners the keiki menu.) See p. 272. But in the state. My two faves are CJ’s that’s not all; at the other end of Maui Deli and Diner (& 808/667-0968) (and also on Oahu) in Kapalua and in Kaanapali for the best food in a in Kihei, Sansei Seafood Restaurant retro atmosphere; and Peggy Sue’s (& 808/669-6286) has only the best (& 808/875-8944) in Kihei for an fish, carefully prepared. See p. 267. upscale Maui-kinda diner the kids • Best for Aspiring Gourmands: Take will love. See p. 265 and 269. your budding “foodies” to the Big • Best Shave Ice: Like surfing, shave Island, where, on the Kona side, the ice is synonymous with Haleiwa, the Hualalai Club Grille by Alan Wong North Shore Oahu town where Mat- (& 808/325-8525) will serve them sumoto Shave Ice (& 808/637- (from the kids’ menu) the best 4827)—and other neighboring in Hawaiian Regional Cuisine. See establishments—serve mounds of icy p. 183. In Hilo, Kaikodo (& 808/ treats to long lines of thirsty takers. 961-2558), offers an excellent Pacific This tasty and refreshing cultural Rim selection in elegant surround- phenomenon is even better over ice ings. See p. 193. cream and adzuki beans. See p. 131. • Best Ice Cream: At stores, restau- • Best Plate Lunch: For seasoned plate rants, and ice cream parlors through- lunchers who favor the traditional out the state, ask for Roselani Ice “two scoop rice” lunches weighted Cream (& 808/244-7951), Maui’s with carbohydrates and hefty meats, only made-from-scratch, old-fash- Zippy’s (21 locations throughout ioned ice cream. See p. 310. On the Oahu; visit www.zippys.com for the Big Island, be sure to try Tropical one nearest you) is a household word. Dreams Ice Cream (& 808/889- On Kauai, Pono Market (& 808/ 5577), another creamy taste treat. 822-4581), Fish Express (& 808/ See p. 190. 245-9918), and Koloa Fish Market 04_053973 ch01.qxp 1/9/07 11:23 PM Page 13

THE BEST BEACHES FOR FAMILIES 13

(& 808/742-6199) are at the top of lychees (also known as litchis) in the plate-lunch pyramid. See p. 109, summer, but Honolulu’s Chinatown 369, 368, and 368, respectively. markets carry them, too. Decidedly • Best Noodles: Ramen, udon, saimin, Hawaiian are Ka’u oranges, grown pho, pasta, chow mein—Hawaii is in the volcanic soil of the southern the epicenter of ethnic noodle stands Big Island and available in supermar- and houses, with many recommend- kets and health-food stores. Don’t be able and inexpensive choices. Jimbo’s fooled by their brown, ugly skin— Restaurant (Oahu; & 808/947- they’re juicy, thin-skinned, and sweet 2211), a neighborhood institution, is as honey. tops for freshly made udon with gen- • Other Mighty Morsels: Poi biscotti erous toppings and a homemade from the Poi Company, available at broth. See p. 112. supermarkets and gourmet outlets • Best Tropical Fruit: Mangosteen, such as Hawaiian Regional Cuisine the queen of fruit in Indonesia, is the Marketplace (in Macy’s in Ala sensation at the Hilo Farmers’ Market Moana, Honolulu), is a new taste on the Big Island. Mangosteen’s ele- treat, the consummate accompani- gant purple skin and soft, white, flo- ment to another island phenomenon, ral-flavored flesh (like lychee, but Kona coffee. Highly esteemed coffee more custardlike than translucent) growers (all based on the Big Island, make this fruit a sure winner. It joins of course), include: Bears’ Coffee the ranks of rambutan, durian, (& 808/935-0708); Kona Blue Sky sapote, sapodilla, and other exotic Coffee (& 877/322-1700 or 808/ Asian newcomers. The mango is 322-1700); Waimea Coffee Com- always a much-anticipated feature of pany (& 808/885-4472); Bad Ass late spring and summer. Hayden Coffee Company (multiple loca- mangoes are universally loved for tions), and Holualoa Kona Coffee their plump, juicy flesh and brilliant Company (& 800/334-0348). skins. Papaya lovers, take note: The buttery, chocolate-dipped Kahuku papayas—firm, fleshy, dark shortbread cookies of Big Island orange, and so juicy they sometimes Candies (Big Island; & 808/935- squirt—are the ones to watch for on 8890) are worth every calorie and menus and in markets; check out the every dollar. See p. 232. From Kauai, supermarkets and the roadside stands Hanapepe town’s venerable Taro Ko in Kahuku on Oahu. Sunrise Chips (& 808/335-5586 for the fac- papayas from Kapoho and Kauai are tory) are the crunchy snack neighbor also top-notch. White, acid-free, islanders drive long miles to find, extra sweet, and grown on Kauai and then cart home in hand-carried bun- the Big Island, Sugarloaf pineapples dles. See p. 407. are the new rage. Hilo is the town for

5 The Best Beaches for Families • Lanikai Beach (Oahu): Too gor- bordering translucent turquoise geous to be real, this stretch along the waters. The year-round calm waters windward coast is one of Hawaii’s are excellent for swimming, snorkel- postcard-perfect beaches—a mile of ing, and kayaking. Completing the golden sand as soft as powdered sugar picture are two tiny offshore islands 04_053973 ch01.qxp 1/9/07 11:23 PM Page 14

14 CHAPTER 1 . HOW TO FEEL LIKE A HAWAII FAMILY that function not only as scenic back- Offshore, the ocean churns mightily drops but also as bird sanctuaries. in winter, but the waves die down See p. 136. in summer, making the calm waters • Hapuna Beach (Big Island): This inviting for swimming, picnics, beach half-mile-long crescent regularly wins walks, and sunset watching. See kudos in the world’s top travel maga- p. 328. zines as the most beautiful beach in • Hulopoe Beach (Lanai): This Hawaii—some consider it one of the golden, palm-fringed beach off the most beautiful beaches in the world. south coast of Lanai gently slopes One look and you’ll see why: Perfect down to the azure waters of a Marine cream-colored sand slopes down to Life Conservation District, where crystal-clear waters that are great for clouds of tropical fish flourish and swimming, snorkeling, and bodysurf- spinner dolphins come to play. A tide ing in summer; come winter, waves pool in the lava rocks defines one side thunder in like stampeding wild of the bay, while the other is lorded horses. The facilities for picnicking over by the Manele Bay Hotel, which and camping are top-notch, and sits prominently on the hill above. there’s plenty of parking. See p. 219. Offshore, you’ll find good swim- • Kapalua Beach (Maui): On an ming, snorkeling, and diving; island with many great beaches, onshore, there’s a full complement of Kapalua takes the prize. This golden beach facilities, from restrooms to crescent with swaying palms is pro- camping areas. See p. 343. tected from strong winds and cur- • Haena Beach (Kauai): Backed by rents by two outstretched lava-rock verdant cliffs, this curvaceous North promontories. Its calm waters are Shore beach has starred as paradise in perfect for snorkeling, swimming, many a movie. It’s easy to see why and kayaking. The beach borders the Hollywood loves Haena Beach, with Kapalua Bay Hotel, but it’s long its grainy golden sand and translu- enough for everyone to enjoy. Facili- cent turquoise waters. Summer ties include showers, restrooms, and months bring calm waters for swim- lifeguards. See p. 289. ming and snorkeling, while winter • Papohaku Beach (Molokai): One of brings mighty waves for surfers. Hawaii’s longest beaches, these gold There are plenty of facilities on hand, sands stretch on for some 3 miles and including picnic tables, restrooms, are about as wide as a football field. and showers. See p. 395.