www.cattewatercruisingclub.org.uk

SOU-SOUWEST BY 60 SCALLOPS

Another year had gone by and it was time for the 2015 "Two Men in a Boat" saga. Rodders, the Scurvy Crew, managed to avoid the wildcat strikes at Calais and made it across the Channel to arrive in Exmouth on time for coffee on Tuesday, 9 Jun 15. We downed the coffees; we even washed up as Lian was away!! We then shot down to PYH, via a lightning shop at Morrison's, and had Isotope packed, rigged and ready to slip at 1440 hrs.

The forecast was NE F4-5 and we set off across the Sound under jib alone; I was being properly cautious as always!! However, even I accepted that we needed a little more sail power to keep her moving with all the extra weight onboard and to overcome the "sea-anchor" effect of towing the large rubber dinghy. We raised the mainsail, with all 3 reefs in, off Cawsand Bay. On rounding Penlee Point, the wind picked up and we had an exhilarating broad reach across Whitsand Bay, making in 4 hrs 30 mins, pontoon to buoy, which was my fastest ever passage time to Fowey. We did have the tide with us, which did help a bit, I admit!! We had catered to eat onboard that night and had my home made pheasant, ham and mushroom pie.

When we came to on the Wednesday morning, it was actually quite pleasant with a gentle breeze. It was hard to believe that there was a gale warning in force for Plymouth with an Inshore Waters forecast of NE F4-5 occ 6. I knew that the weather for Thursday and Friday was going to be even worse, so the decision was whether to sit it out in Fowey for 3 days or make a dash for Falmouth. I admit that, under normal circumstances and without the Scurvy Crew to lead me astray, I would still have been tied up in PYH!! But then we noticed a number of other yachts casting off and, remembering the old saying about "running before a storm", we decided to head for scallops!! Many of the other yachts set off under full sail and we could see they were being very hard pressed. So again, it was unfurl the jib and raise the fully reefed main. Clear of Fowey entrance, it was another scorching broad reach down to . The seas had risen considerable overnight, but were still quite comfortable at this stage. We averaged nearly 6.5 kts all the way down to Dodman. We had realised soon after clearing Gribben Head that there was no turning back and that we were committed to Falmouth. On rounding Dodman Point, the wind became a little more ENE with a lot more than just the occ F6!! Unfortunately, with her relatively small jib, Isotope does not goose wing, so it meant that we could only bear off until the jib started to collapse. This put us on a course direct for the Lizard. Should we go to the Scillies after all!!?!! Thus commenced 2 hours of the wildest roller coaster ride I have ever experienced. Why people pay to go to Alton Towers, I will never know!! The seas seemed enormous and on more than one occasion I looked aft to see a great breaking wave towering over us and wondered how wet I was going to get!! But each time, Isotope hoisted her skirts and flew off on the crest of another wave, thereby avoiding the monster behind. I would have loved to have captured some of it on camera, but I needed one hand to hang on while the other remained ready to protect the family blood line just in case Rodders' bracing foot slipped again!!

Helming was also very hard work. You normally need a very sharp instrument to prise Rodders off the helm, but in these conditions he was pleading to be relieved after 30 mins, as his shoulders were aching so much!! It then became time to gybe and head for Falmouth. Easier said than done and we spent several minutes waiting for a relative lull in the wave motion before we achieved the manoeuvre. Over went the sails, properly controlled, and Isotope raced off on the new bearing. This put the waves more on our beam and I swear that on one occasion Rodders was sitting vertically above me on the other side of the cockpit!! (Val: this is not a problem when riding up the face of a wave with all the weight of the keel still balanced in the water - believe me it's true!!) There were also a couple of occasions which required two hands on the tiller, one each, to keep her straight and level!! My tiller pilot would never have stood a chance in those conditions. I also said several thank you's to the man who introduced me to the concept of having a permanent preventer rigged. I do not know how the mast and rigging would have survived in the wild rolls we experienced so far off the wind, if we had not had the preventer on and tight.

Five hours after casting off in Fowey, we were secure up the Penryn River in Falmouth Marina, bruised and exhausted, but revelling in the excitement of one hell of a sail. We did not even blink that we were in berth J13!! Isotope was well toasted that evening in thanks to giving us so much fun and delivering us safely to Falmouth. Again, we had catered to eat onboard and had Waitrose's lamb rump with a crispy herb crust, a particular favourite of us both.

Thursday morning was quite pleasant. As soon as we were up and breakfasted, it was off to SW Fisheries. He only had frozen scallops and crab meat. He tried to give us some weak excuse about the seas having been too rough for the scallop dredgers or crabbers to go out!! Scurvy Crew forgot that there were a dozen scallops in each pack; it was hard to see through the frosting!! So we returned onboard with the first 24 scallops, a kilo of white crab meat and a prepared monk fish. We knew rain was due in the afternoon and decided that we would walk into Falmouth and round Pendennis Point to see if any idiots were at sea. It was so rough and windy, that the Culdrose helicopter crews were doing their deck winching practice inside Carrick Roads!! We did see one very well reefed yacht rolling its way in past St Anthony's Head though.

It was still only late morning, but it started to rain as we came down from the Point. By the time we reached the Maritime Museum, we were well soaked. The Museum must love days like that, because the queue to get in must have been 50 deep!! Instead, we shot across the courtyard, where they were setting up for the weekend's Sea Shanty Festival, to join the crowd sheltering under the archway outside Rick Stein's. After half an hour of "the rain is easing - no it isn't", the Scurvy Crew decided that if he was going to be wet on the outside, he might as well be wet on the inside as well; so we set off in search of a local beer to suit his taste.

By the time Rod had finished his beer, the rain had stopped and we set off for the walk back to Isotope. On the way, Rod spotted a barber's shop and decided to stop for a haircut. This came as quite a shock to me, as throughout his service career Rod had been renowned for his longer than regulation length full head of wavy hair, which had become even longer with his retirement. I left him, walked on and the rain started again. By the time I was back onboard, I was soaked and had to change into dry clothes. Thankfully, we had put the cockpit tent up and had a dry area to leave the wet gear. Rod arrived not long after, soaking wet too and in an even greater sense of shock; he had a real short back and sides!! Later in the week, I had to give him some E45 cream for his ears, which had become sunburnt having not seen the light of day for many a year!!

The rain continued all afternoon and became so heavy at one stage that it was driving through the zips of the cockpit tent!! It had eased and stopped by gin time, but by then it was time to commence the fishfest: 6 scallops each for starters with another 6 each with the monkfish. I forgot to mention, we had also purchased a dozen raw king prawns which were also cooked and shared out with the monkfish!!

We had initially only intended to stay two nights in the Marina, but as Friday was going to be another wet and windy day and to ensure we had a berth for Saturday night, we extended our lease for another two nights. We made another run to SW Fisheries Friday morning, but decided that a dozen scallops and half a dozen prawns were probably sufficient to accompany a very nice filleted brill. The rest of the day was spent being bored and fed up with the weather, although we did manage to walk into Falmouth and back without getting wet.

It was a Classic Boat Rally that weekend, to coincide with the Sea Shanties, and we needed a sail!! Having told the Marina that we would be back, we cast off and headed down to Falmouth Docks, where we raised the main with only 2 reefs, before heading off up Carrick Roads to avoid the Classics who were racing in the lower section. The wind was in the west and started to increase. We were having a good sail, but there were an awful lot of other boats about; it was time to revert to 3 reefs in an attempt to make Isotope more controllable. Also, the Classics were beginning to become further up the Roads as they finished their race. They, of course, were all under full sail!! We were sailing northwards red-to-red past a beautiful old 6m when a gust hit and she heeled so far over the crew on the unguarded deck were up to their knees in water, as the lee rail went under; her mast only just missed Isotope's by what looked like inches!! Shortly after mid-day we were heading southwards towards Castle when the wind increased to nearly 30 kts over the deck. This was too much for Isotope, as well reefed as she was, and I was definitely very unhappy with the number and proximity of all the Classics charging about willy-nilly. Therefore, much to Rod's chagrin, it was down with the sails and back to the Marina. I was very relieved to know that Cruise 6 had delayed their departure from Plymouth by a day; good call Kev. That night we dined with Rod's son and family, who live in , in the Marina restaurant. An excellent evening and an excellent meal. After our two fishfests, rare steaks were the order of the day, though we did have the sea food skewers as starters!!

Sunday was a different day, bright sunny intervals and a light NW wind. Our planned destination was the . After a resupply run to the local Sainsbury's, we set off. Full sail was set off Falmouth docks and the engine shut down. However, the wind soon died completely. As the Classics were becalmed off St Mawes with a finish line off Pendennis, it was start the iron topsail to motor south of Black Rock. The wind then started to fill from the S and we had a couple of hours enjoying a very pleasant sail.

A Contented Scurvy Crew

Early afternoon, the wind started to die again and we turned for the Helford. We were just contemplating giving in to the engine when the wind swung to the promised NW and started to fill. Before long we were charging along at 6 kts plus and I was thinking of reefing!! However, the Helford was fast approaching and the sea was calm, so we enjoyed the ride. Several other boats were inbound for the Helford and we decided to carry on and find a buoy. The sails came down just short of the Voose and we headed on in to find that most of the visitors' buoys were vacant. We selected one well up river and the Scurvy Crew did well to hook it first time, as the wind and tide were in opposition making it impossible to keep Isotope in position when stationary. The skies cleared and we went ashore to try out the Helford River Sailing Club's new showers. In the gents, there were 3 showers giving you 8 mins of hot water for £1; this even proved long enough for me!! The oddity was that the showers were on one side of a very large square room and had nowhere to hang your towel. There were a couple of short benches in the corner opposite, across a vast open space, with only a few clothes hooks. We appreciated the shower and, even more so, the beers we enjoyed sitting in the sun on their new veranda. Not knowing what would be open on a Sunday evening, we had catered to eat onboard. I had bought a special sealed cook pot for use in the new oven, but had never used it. It was christened to make a beef stew. I was ready to eat in the sun in the cockpit, but the Scurvy Crew claimed the wind was too cold; he was probably right!!

Helford River in the Evening Sun

When we came to on the Monday morning, it was still and misty. By the time we came to leave at 1000 hrs, the skies had cleared, the wind had gone easterly F3-4 and a swell was already building in the river. Full sail was raised off the Voose and we had a lovely "turn and turn" about on the helm beat out of the Helford in the rising swell. Having cleared the Gedges, the wind veered SE and dropped, making it very difficult to make way to windward in the swell. We abandoned the idea of sailing out to the Manacles on a dolphin spotting mission and made for the quieter waters of Carrick Roads. We decided we would make for St Just Pool and anchor while we enjoyed the left-over stew as a form of vegetable soup. After lunch, we raised the anchor (Scurvy Crew did the hard work!!) and set off to enjoy a gentle sail around Carrick Roads; the wind was SSW F3 making for blissful sailing. Come 1500 hrs, we decided we should stop enjoying ourselves and head for St Mawes for our pre-arranged rendezvous with the remnants of Cruise 6. We arrived to find Kalimero and Saraband already secured to buoys with everyone asleep down below, expect for Val who was dosing in the sun on deck!! We made fast to a nearby buoy, had a quick pot of tea and started to prepare to go ashore for the BBQ. Just as we were about to load up the dinghy for the run ashore, Sundance hove into view, spotted us all and turned in towards the moorings. With unerring aim, they headed for the only buoy without a pick-up buoy!! After much shouting and gesticulation, they realised their error and picked up another buoy adjacent to Kalimero.

Scurvy Crew Eager to go Ashore Isotope in St Mawes

Despite the gathering clouds and the sky turning positively black to the North and over Falmouth, it stayed dry and a most enjoyable BBQ was held on the beach. This year, we managed to get there first and choose our spot before another group arrived from across the Bay!! Whilst the others satisfied themselves on sausages and burgers, Rodders and I had pitta bread, haloumi cheese, lamb chops, rib-eye steaks and mixed salad!! One does have standards of cuisine to maintain, even when BBQing!!

Kalimero & Sundance at St Mawes St Mawes Harbour and the new short stay dinghy pontoon

Tuesday morning was a glorious summer's morning and, whilst Cruise 6 went for a walk to St Anthony's Head, we cast off bound to return to the Helford via a sail out to the Manacles. We had a grand sail out, but not a dolphin in sight!! Also, the wind, which had been SE, became SSW and gradually started to build. It was time for a reef!! Despite our reaching back and forth at 5-6 kts, we were still dolphin less after an hour and decided to head for the Helford. The wind then started to ease and I agreed to shake out the reef. We arrived at the Helford at 1400 hrs, along with several other yachts, only to find that every visitors' buoy was taken, several by lone Cornish shrimpers that were really too small to attempt to raft against. We had decided to return to the Helford because on our earlier visit we had discovered that the HRSC had a new chef and we were very impressed with the menu. Although I would have been more than happy to anchor overnight in the bay east of the Voose, I was not going to leave Isotope unattended and out of sight at anchor while we dined ashore. The decision was made, therefore, to abandon the Helford, which had even more boats piling in, and head for more scallops. Fortunately, Falmouth Marina had a vacant berth and it was hot foot off to SW Fisheries. He only had frozen scallops and crab again, the excuse being this time that his scallop sheller and crab dresser would be preparing the next fresh lot in the morning!!

As the scallops would not defrost in time for dinner, it was on to Sainsbury's to see what they had on offer. That night we had lamb steaks with garlic and chilli roast vegetables. This was at Rod's request, as it is hard to come by lamb in Germany and it is one of my favourite dishes anyway.

The weather was not looking too wonderful for the next few days, and as we had done most of what we wanted to do in the Falmouth environs, we decided we would wend our way back and head for Fowey on the Wednesday. After a quick early morning dash up to SW Fisheries for another dozen scallops, more crab meat and some cod loin, we were off. The forecast was W F3-4 occ 5, so I elected for a single reef in the main. We turned into wind off Falmouth Docks, but the third reefing line had a knot in it, which was inhibiting raising the main. As Scurvy Crew was sorting it out, we were gentling motoring into the moorings and a couple on the boat we were heading straight towards suddenly started waving. We were still a couple of minutes off hitting them and I could not understand why they were getting so excited. My eyes then focussed and I realised it was Saraband and that Bev & Kev were only waving hello!! Knot released, main with one reef raised, jib unfurled and off we went. The wind became more F2 than 3 and we were making very slow progress. "Wait until we are clear of St Anthony's Head", I said, "and then we will see what happens". Nothing!! The full main was raised. The wind immediately responded, rose to F4 and off we shot!! As on the way down, the wind was directly down the desired track and we had to head towards the Channel Islands (done that!!) to keep the jib filled. It was a pleasant enough sail with moderate visibility under a lot of cloud. Unfortunately, the tide was against us and our SOG in the desired direction was not great despite the good boat speed. Eventually, we reached abeam Dodman Point, gybed over and even got a lift off the tide sweeping up round the Point. We were so far out, that the outfalls round Dodman Point were of no concern!! As we crossed Mevagissey Bay, the wind veered towards NW and increased. By the time we were approaching Gribben Head, it was up to F5 and we were well heeled over. Rodders was on the helm and, as the boat speed hit 7.7 kts, all he could do was grin!! With the foul tide, it still only took us just over 6 hrs pontoon to buoy in Fowey. Much to my surprise, we had a another good choice of buoys when we arrived. We also spotted Paloma & Rose of rafted up together on South pontoon. It was another fishfest night!!

Due to our rush to reach Falmouth on the way down, we had not had the mandatory breakfast ashore in Fowey. We resolved to remedy that on the Thursday morning before heading back to Plymouth. I had been disappointed with my usual haunt, Brown Sugar (different staff), on my last visit to Fowey, so we took the advice of the cigar/pipe smoking Water Taxi man and went to The Ship. It did not open until 0930 hrs. As it was 0900 hrs, we walked up to the Harbour Office for a forecast. They do not open until 0900 hrs and it takes 15 mins for their computers to warm up and download the forecast!! We went up to the Gallants, to see if they had made any changes to showers or toilets, which they had not, before picking up our forecast from the Harbour Office and returning to The Ship. Breakfast was £10.75 plus £2.75 for coffee or tea. We walked round to the Lifebuoy (the Water Taxi's second recommendation) and had a reasonable breakfast at a reasonable price. Rodders had the "Fat Boy's Breakfast"; need I say more!! I think I will go back to Brown Sugar the next time I actually make Fowey!!

The wind was forecast at NNW F4-5. Allowing for the extra ballast of the 2 cooked breakfasts, we hoisted full sail and raced off towards Plymouth. We had another cracking sail with an almost flat sea and even the sun made an appearance!! However, the wind was still bitterly cold. As we approached , we overhauled Paloma & Rose of Truro, who both had a reef in the main and had departed Fowey while we were at breakfast. As often happens in such conditions, the wind went flat off Penlee Point in the shadow of Rame Head and then went wham-bang in gusts as we cleared into Cawsand Bay. Isotope was under full sail and the Commodore commented later that she had never seen her heeled so far over.

Take my word, neither have I!!! Surprise, surprise, Rod was on the helm when we hit 7.6 kts boat speed. We were relatively under control, rounding up into the strongest of the gusts, when an idiot fisherman in an open boat motored into our path, stopped his engine and threw his line over the side. He will never know how close he came to being cut in two as we did not have much wetted area on the rudder heeled over that far!! Despite averaging over 5 kts boat speed on the entire run, it still took us nearly 5 hrs buoy to pontoon, but we did have the tide against us the whole way!!

We had decided before leaving Fowey that we would wash and deflate the dinghy on arrival in Plymouth and then dine in the Bridge that night. In the sun and the wind, the dinghy dried well, and we had it packed away and in the car in plenty of time to shower and eat. We had a very pleasant meal, rare steaks again, in the Bridge, but the cost of the wine - the cheapest on the wine list was £24!! I can buy a whole case of six bottles of Margaret's favourite wine for not much more than that!!

Friday was to be our last full day onboard and we had a glorious 6 hrs at sea just sailing around off Plymouth. The wind was WNW F2-3 to start with and then swung SW before returning to NW. It also picked up, which was good as the Scurvy Crew was winging that it was hard work coaxing Isotope to windward in such light airs!! As the wind filled, we were broad reaching eastwards down past Yealm Head under full sail and decided it was time to come on to the wind and beat our way westwards. We were under full sail and Scurvy Crew was happy. However, it was time for a lesson. We came round to close hauled on starboard tack and Isotope was well heeled over doing about 5.5 kts boat speed. I insisted we put in one reef, which we did. We were still fairly well pressed and still doing about the same boat speed. Despite Rod's puckered lip at the suggestion, in went the second reef. Isotope was almost upright, comfortable, fully under control and also going slightly faster!! Scurvy Crew accepted the lesson and even started to smile again when he hit over 7 kts when we bore off a little later!!

While Rod put Isotope to bed, I went on a ration run to Morrison's for some more lamb steaks and vegetables. What do you know, the fish counter had some very nice Cornish scallops on special offer!! How could I refuse, which brought the total number of scallops consumed on the voyage to the nice round number of 60!! (Just in case you have lost count while reading this!!)

After another excellent meal onboard and another good night's sleep, we awoke to yet another nice morning and just had to have a final sail before we packed up and went home!! We had a lovely 4 hrs at sea before we had to face the inevitable, sail back in, pack up, say good bye to Isotope, head back to Exmouth and wave Rodders off back to Germany until next year, when I have to go through it all again!!!