Les Dames d’Escoffier International QUARTERLY CONFERENCE ISSUE Washington, D.C.

Grande Dame Jerry DiVecchio

The History of LDEI

The LDEI Kitchen Fund

Chapters Respond to Terrorist Attacks

Management Firm Hired

Houston Chapter Raises $25,000

Dames Manufacture Food Products

Adelaide, Australia · Atlanta · Boston · British Columbia · Chicago · Dallas Honolulu · Houston · Kansas City · Le Donne del Vino, Italy · Los Angeles Miami · Minneapolis/St. Paul · New York · Palm Springs · Philadelphia Phoenix · San Antonio · San Francisco · Seattle · Washington, D.C. WINTER 2002 Les Dames d’Escoffier International 2001-2002 President’s Message EXECUTIVE “Connectivity through Communication” We are enhancing the LDEI Web site to COMMITTEE is my theme for Les Dames d’Escoffier provide easy access to information. The President International this year. Instituting this site will include calendars of all chapters Renie Steves theme began last year when Abby so Dames who are traveling may attend 1406 Thomas Place Mandel and the executive committee events in other chapter. Updating Ft. Worth, TX 76107-2432 produced a new brochure that defines Dames’ listings will be easy and efficient. (817) 732-4758 our membership and Eventually chapters will be [email protected] mission. Chapters will find able to share fundraising First VP/Pres. Elect this especially beneficial in ideas on the Web site CiCi Williamson seeking support for events. instead of reinventing the 6025 Chesterbrook Road Through our connection wheel with each event. McLean, VA 22101-3213 [email protected] with our new national office, Association, Event Our e-newsletter — for Second VP/Communications and Conference members only — allows Kathrine Newell-Smith Management Resources individuals to address 10028 Lochness Court (AEC) and its president career-related problems that Vienna, VA 22181 Greg Jewell we will build Liz Baron, left, president of elicit advice from other [email protected] the Dallas Chapter, pre- members as well as receive strong communication sents check for MFK Fisher Third VP/Communications between chapters. In other notice of our bridgeline Award to LDEI president teleforums. These Lynn Fredericks words, the right hand can Renie Steves at the Annual 330 East 43rd Street #704 know and understand what Conference. teleforums are monthly y New York, NY 10017 the left hand is doing, “dial-in meetings” open to (212) 867-3929 all members who want to participate on [email protected] whether it concerns a chapter’s change in officers or ideas for fundraisers. There is a particular subject such as membership Secretary a wealth of knowledge and resources in issues, educational forums, or career Pat Mozersky each chapter and we want to facilitate a changes. 204 Cliffside Drive strong connection between the chapters. San Antonio, TX 78231 Twenty-five years ago a small group of (210) 492-4336 Through AEC we not only have women in New York saw a need to [email protected] connectivity but continuity from year to connect with their food, wine, and Treasurer year. Greg is the center of our May pole, hospitality colleagues. All of this Dianne Hogerty the collector of information, the connectivity has grown from that. 2401 W. 70th Street. perpetual calendar, and the person to Mission Hills, KS 66028 help streamline processes. Renie Steves (913) 384-3387 [email protected] Jerry DiVecchio, Sunset Magazine A big thanks to Dave Past President Moore, pictured here with Abby Mandel Carol Haddix, Chicago Tribune his wife Bonnie who was 77 Maple Hill Road D.C. conference co-chair. Margaret Kirkwood, Food Writer He took photos of all the Glencoe, IL 6002 events at the conference. (847) 835-2240 Caren McSherry, Author & Radio/TV Any photos not credited in [email protected] Jane Mengenhauser, Food Writer this issue are those that Please send information Dave took. Feel free to CiCi Williamson, Syndicated Columnist visit his Web site at for the next newsletter to www.mooredc.com to [email protected] Lucy Wing, formerly of Country Living PHOTO BY CICI WILLIAMSON. view and order photos.

About the Cover: GRANDE DAME Jerry Anne DiVecchio 42-year career. Jerry wrote and/or edited Committee for the International Association was honored with the LDEI Grande Dame 53 Sunset cookbooks, including The Mexican of Culinary Professionals. Jerry served on the Award in Washington, DC, on October 19 Cook Book which has sold 2 million copies. advisory board of ARC (mentally handi- during the annual conference. Recently As the founding president of the San capped) in San Francisco and has been an retired from Sunset Publications as senior Francisco Les Dames d’Escoffier chapter, she advisor to the San Francisco Ferry Plaza food editor, Jerry shaped the way people proposed and worked to establish the LDEI Public Market, and the California of Sciences in the West ate and strongly influenced MFK Fisher Award. Jerry has given gener- Museum, Reitz Food Symposium, San food trends. With a major in home eco- ously of her time and talents to the Los Francisco. She certainly exemplifies the true nomics and minor in journalism, she built Angeles Olympics, the March of Dimes and meaning of Grande Dame as did her mentor, the food department at Sunset into a cre- the San Francisco Food Runners. For two M.F.K. Fisher who received the Grande ative, dynamic, editorial force during her years, she chaired the Cook Book Awards Dame Award 23 years ago.

2 Les Dames d’Escoffier International White House Tales at the Woodrow Wilson House By Celeste McCall, Washington, D.C. Chapter Seattle Chapter Dames’ wineries were Kicking off Les Dames’ action-packed Washington deliciously and well weekend was a reception at the Woodrow Wilson House, represented with LYN the historic mansion located off Embassy Row. The TANGEN Washington State Wine Commission sponsored the event. ’s Caterina L INDA As the 145 attendees crowded around, LDEI president Winery and CHAUNCEY’s Stimson ABBY MANDEL, conference co-chairs PATRICE DIONOT and Lane Winery. And BONNIE MOORE, DC Chapter president CYNTHIA GLOVER Debra Barnard gra- and public relations chair BEVERLY BROCKUS each made ciously poured her welcoming remarks. Barnard Griffin Then veteran New Wines. After the York Times food colum- reception, many nist and D.C. Chapter groups of Dames par- Emerita Dame MARIAN ticipated in restaurant BURROS, regaled guests Dine-Arounds with tales from “Below arranged by BEVERLY the Stairs at the White BROCKUS at restaurants House.” Burros’ histori- related to D.C. Dames. cal culinary romp took us through the kitchen adventures of eight administrations–from Lyndon B. Johnson through George W. Bush. Many of the humorous tales involved the ridiculous secrecy surrounding White House kitchens: tracking Lynda Bird Johnson’s wedding cake and White House chef Henry Haller’s recipe for Chinese chicken in walnut sauce. Afterwards, guests toured the mansion where President Woodrow Wilson spent his last three years. As Washington State wines flowed, E LOISE SANCHEZ, general manager of Washington Wine Commission representatives pour their vin- Dean & DeLuca, and SANDRA ROSS, creative director of tages. Design Cuisine, provided tasty hors d’oeuvres, including chicken satay with peanut dipping sauce and veggies with hummus.

PHOTO BY CICI WILLIAMSON One group of Dames enjoys the International Dine-Around at the Four Seasons Hotel’s Seasons restaurant. Left to right, Carol Beverly Brockus, center, coordinator of the opening reception Brock (New York); Ann Steiner (Houston); Four Seasons’ execu- and following dine-around, chats with Bonnie Moore, left, and tive chef Doug Anderson; Mary Jo Plutt (Chicago); Karen Vartan Gail Forman of the D.C. Chapter. and Annie Boutin-King (D.C.).

3 Les Dames d’Escoffier International International Culinary Expo By Tina Wasserman, Dallas Chapter An LDEI meet- ing guarantees three things: the people will be ter- rific, the conversa- tions will be stimu- lating—profession- ally and intellectu- ally—and the food will be inventive, delicious and PLENTIFULL! The D.C. Dames fulfilled all requirements dur- Susan Callahan, left, serves fajitas for the National Cattlemen’s ing the annual con- Beef Association. ference’s Friday luncheon: an International Culinary Expo. JANIS MCLEAN, La Varenne’s U.S. repre- sentative, coordinated the luncheon’s 15 stations of food and wine that were prepared or provided by local Dames, friends of Dames in metropolitan D.C., and wineries in California and Washington State. The foods were diverse in ethnicity, flavor and texture…a party for our palates.

•RUTH GRESSER of Pizzeria Paradiso was assisted by MELISSA BALLINGER with an unusual bruchetta with pickled anchovies and LOADS of garlic. Fortunately everyone devoured the bruchetta so no one noticed the garlic!

Delores Cakebread and Caroline Bailey of the Gallo family share •JOAN N ATHAN and CARLA HALL collaborated on a wine talk. Caroline is president of women for Winesense. Moroccan tomato and pepper salad accentuated with the intriguing flavor of preserved Board—was delicious. And the lemon. Alaskan Seafood Marketing Institute can pitch their seafood to •CAROLINE ROSS exquisitely me any time they want!t! demonstrated the perfect, rich Local restaurants whose Dames’ combination of apples, butter and connection is that of being fre- sugar in a light pastry with her quented by our sisters helped out as mini Tarte Tatin. well. Saigonnais treated us to Vietnamese garden rolls, Mt. •VANESSA L IM represented her Everest Restaurant served many restaurants, Yanyu and Spices, second helpings of Nilgiri Chicken with her extraordinary Ginza and Bombay Bistro offered Papri roll, and this Texan thought that Chat, a great vegetarian dish. Seven SUSAN CALLAHAN cut a mean Seas Restaurant surprised us with Fajita for conference sponsor, the Sweet Black Rice Cake dessert, Red National Cattlemen’s Beef Ginger served up Seafood Fritters Association. with Spicy Dipping sauce and Café’ Atlantico brought a delicious As a prune lover, I couldn’t care Ceviche Mixto. less if the fruit was called a dried I am gladly relegating myself to plum or prune, but I can tell you meals of fruit and yogurt for a that the lamb and dried plums with month. It was worth it. couscous — from the Dried Plum

4 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Grande Dame Dinner Tres Magique! By Joan Reardon, Chicago Chapter Dornbush, Todd Abracadabra! Nothing about the evening of October 19, Gray, James Parker, 2001, was what it seemed to be. How could so many culi- Michel Richard, nary professionals abandon their toques and business attire Harry Sarkeez, Jeff and appear at the stroke of 6 o’clock in swirling silk scarves Tunks, and Robert and trendy evening clothes to sip Champagne and nibble Wiedmaier accepted on empanadas and mushroom croquettes? our applause in their How could the Omni Shoreham’s Blue Room transform kitchen whites and itself so completely with stunning napery, glowing cande- promptly mounted labras, and scattered rose petals to dazzle the dinner the stage as experi- arrivees. And could eight wine glasses and rows of gleaming enced auctioneers. silver possibly hint at the gastronomic delights of Led by Michel Consumme de Canard, Roasted Shrimp, Cashew Crusted Richard, the bidding Halibut, Granite de Cidre, Herbed Squab, Paleron, and on an enlarged sou- Chocolate Pot de Crème? Co-chairs ANNIE BOUTIN-KING venir photograph and KELLY MORRIS waved their wands and in the kitchen escalated into thou- below subtle conjurings occurred. sand dollar bids on Sitting in the glow of candlelight and sipping exquisitely dining experiences in appropriate wines, the evolution of the evening was magical. their restaurants, the Abby Mandel, past LDEI president, funds targeted at the introduces Grande Dame Jerry And as the charmed scenario unfolded, suspense ran riot. DiVecchio. CAROL CUTLER appeared and disappeared when 49 auction LDEI Kitchen Fund. items were suspended in a miasma of dollar signs, netting One-upmanship just over $15,000 for LDEI. Bravo, Carol! Items included a reigned. The evening that Chef Roberto Donna predicted, trip to Copenhagen, a getaway to Seattle, a pre- or post- “We’ll make it fun!” became an opera bouffe of laughter and meeting sojourn in San Antonio for October 2002, and a giving. “We raised fifty percent more than our break even week in a Ile St. Louis pied a terre. point,” smiled Carol Cutler the next day. Diners were a bundle of anticipation when president Sometime before the stroke of twelve, everyone van- ABBY MANDEL announced the recipient of the 2001 Grande ished in a spell of mysterious charm. The Grande Dame Dame Award honoring a culinary leader for lifetime Dinner was over but the magic of the evening lingered on achievement. JERRY DIVECCHIO, the founding president of for Les Dames. the San Francisco Chapter and recently- retired senior editor at Sunset magsazine, accepted the honor with grace and was presented with an engraved Orrefors (crys- tal bowl). Abby recog- nized LDEI founder GRANDE DAME CAROL BROCK and congratulat- ed for her unstinting dedi- Kate Jansen with, left to right, Roberto Donna, Patrice Dionot and Bonnie cation to Les Robert Wiedmaier and Todd Gray. Moore, conference co-chairs. Dames d’Escoffier since founding the New York City chapter in 1973. In recognition of her role as founder, Carol was presented with a blue and white pottery platter embossed with Les Dames logo, hand-thrown by Chase Bruns, an Alexandria, Virginia, potter. As a final bit of make-believe, Washington’s top chefs Jeff Buben, Francois Dionot, Roberto Donna, Jon

5 Les Dames d’Escoffier International SUSTAINABILITY: SEEING THE BIG PICTURE Grande Dame Dinner By Jerry Anne Di Vecchio, San Francisco Chapter Sustainability and Leadership for the 21st Menu Century, moderated by ANNYONKERS, led off with heavy hits as she outlined the Chicken and Chipotle Empanadas dangers of consolidated agriculture especially Wild Mushroom & Manchego Cheese Croquettes in this time of terrorism, the disparate gap Greggory Hill of Gabriel’s between cost of foods and return to the farmer or rancher, and perishing farmlands. Consommé de Canard Shifting to a brighter note, Ann, manager with a Roulade of Duck Confit and Dried Plums American Farmland Trust’s FRESHFARM Robert Wiedmaier of Marcel’s Markets, detailed the organization’s success connecting farmers directly to the consumer Roasted Jumbo Shrimp with Celery Root, and farming that sustains productivity of the Braised Cabbage and Virginia Ham land. William Baker, President/CEO of the Todd Gray of Equinox Chesapeake Bay Foundation, deals with 64,000 square miles of filtering watershed Cashew Crusted Halibut that determines the health of the Chesapeake. Food productivity of with Golden Pineapple and Red Thai Curry Chesapeake Bay, which spiraled down Jeff Tunks of DC Coast dramatically from the early 60’s, shows signs of reversing. Baker stated, “The Bay is sick, it Granite’ de Cidre au Calvados has been for a long time, but it is getting Francois Dionot of L’Academie De Cuisine better.” He stressed that sustainable farming has significant positive impact. Herbed Squab and Pumpkin Risotto Jeff Buben , Vidalia & Moie Crawford farms in the bay’s watershed from Pennsylvania. Her New Morning Roberto Donna of Galileo Farms is productive year round organically producing 50,000 cases annually. Crawford Paleron à la Royale explained how the Tuscarora Co-op, which Michel Richard of Citronelle she co-founded, operates. To modify competition and provide more diversity at Chocolate Pot de Crème the market, the co-op plans crops. Jon Dornbusch of The Omni Shoreham Hotel

Rounding out the panel, Chef SARAH Valrhona Dipped Plums, Coconut Macaroons, STEGNER, The Dining Room at Chicago’s Ritz Carlton, told how she has made Cardamom Orange Tuile sustainably produced foodstuffs an Harry Sarkees of Smith & Wollensky economically sound choice for her restaurant. After overcoming the challenge Dinner Sponsored by: of finding sources, Stegner then helped Alsaskan Seafood Marketing Institute farmers with the Bertolli practical aspects California Dried Plum Board of billing, National Cattlemen’s Beef Association offering variety, and connecting Valrhona Chocolate with other chefs. Products Donated by: Nueski Bacon Vermont Butter & Cheese Santa Lucia State Coffee, Nicaragua Rosalie Riviera Gallo of Sonoma (Philadelphia), Jackson Family Farms Nancy Fisher (Boston) and Ann Wente Vineyards Yonkers (D.C.).

6 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Rappahannock Tour By CiCi Williamson Then it was on to Sunnyside Organic Farm where Brian Russ, livestock manager, took us on a hayride through the The optional Rappahannock tour on Sunday, October 21, property. The farm grows many varieties of organic rapidly filled its maximum of 30 Dames. The annual apples, pears, peaches, 40 varieties of tomatoes, and conference concluded, Dames set off for the picturesque vegetables, many of them heirloom varieties. They also Virginia countryside in two minibuses. As with the entire pasture-raise Wagyu (Kobe) and Angus beef cattle, hogs conference, the weather couldn’t have been better — and veal calves. Established in 1720, Sunnyside is among sunny and in the 70s. A robin’s egg blue sky perched atop America’s oldest working farms. The enterprise, the glorious, flaming foliage of the state’s yellow poplar, headquartered in an 18th century farmhouse, is dedicated maple and oak trees. The brilliant ochre, garnet and to creating great-tasting, nutritionally rich food while copper leaves of old growth trees were punctuated by promoting healthy ecosystems and biodiversity. Farm Virginia’s ubiquitous loblolly pines, magnolias and other tours are available to the public from May to November. evergreens. To learn more, go to www.sunnysidefarms.com.

Just past the Manassas Civil War battlefield, the buses left Last stop on the the relatively flat lanes of Interstate 66 and undulated ever tour was the upward over roller coaster hills toward Rappahannock sumptuous, County and the Blue Ridge Mountains. The county was world-famous named for a Virginia Indian tribe centered in the Inn at Little Tidewater region who first encountered English settlers in Washington. 1607. Rappahannock means “where the tide ebbs and This flows.” magnificent small inn, one Leading the tour was D.C. Dame TERRI LEHMAN, co- of America’s founder and owner of The Epicurious Cow, a specialty food shop in Washington, Virginia. Our first stop was at renowned the Tack House Creamery where Heidi Eastham makes country retreats, 3,500 pounds of goat cheese yearly. The boutique dairy lies in a quaint sits on a ridge with the Blue Ridge Mountains as a village named PHOTO BY RENIE STEVES after the father backdrop and is a small part of the family’s 3,000 acres. Linda Califiore (Chicago), top left, and Jean Bayrock (New York) being served decadent of our country The cheese begins with milk from Heidi’s herd of multi- tea pastries at the Inn at Little Washington. who surveyed colored Nubian goats — terrier-size, playful, curious and these lands in well groomed. The goats frolicked on the grass behind a the 1700s. RACHEL HAYDEN, marketing manager and new knee-high electrified fence, nibbling at her apron and member of the Washington, D.C. Chapter, took us on a anything else they could put their teeth on. One Dame jaw-dropping tour of many of the inn’s unique 12 touched the invisible fence and got “tickled,” but the bedrooms and suites. Decorated by a London stage and set apparently designer, the rooms are ever whimsical and decorated experienced goats from ceiling to floor in an amazing variety of fabrics, stayed away from it. artwork, furnishings and ceramic tiles. After a tour of the small house where It’s hard to believe that this inn—the first establishment in whey from the goats’ the Mobil Travel Guide’s history ever to receive 5 stars milk dripped into for its restaurant and 5 stars for its accommodation—was stainless steel formerly an auto repair shop. Patrick O’Connell, James containers from Beard chef of the year for 2001, visited with us and suspended fabric bags, proudly showed off his new multi-million dollar kitchen. Dames were treated to Then we repaired to various awesome nooks and crannies a tasting of the aged of the main floor to enjoy a licentious assortment of goat cheese set out on pastries and candies. As we drove away, the entire staff, a homemade wooden outfitted in its trademark dalmatian chefs’ pants, lined up bench on the grass in front of the inn and waved us back toward reality. overlooking the mountains. The fresh En route our mad dash toward airplane flights home, one cheese must be bus made a stop at The Epicurious Cow to see Terri’s pasteurized but hard interesting food products while the other went directly to PHOTO BY CICI WILLIAMSON Heide Eastham of Tack House cheese needn’t be if Washington Dulles airport. All would remember fondly Creamery with her Nubian goats. aged 60 days or more. our autumnal Rappahannock tour.

7 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Les Dames d’Escoffier International—A History

by Nancy Brussat Barocci, Chicago Chapter and Saralie Slonsky, New York Chapter with information from Carol Brock, Ella Elvin, and Myra Clement (New York); Beverly Barbour-Soules (San Francisco); Carol Cutler (Washington, D.C.); Carol Haddix (Chicago); and Dolores Snyder (Dallas).

The history of Les Dames d’Escoffier International begins with the founding of Les Dames d’Escoffier New York. In the early 1970s, CAROL BROCK set about to form the first organization for professional women in food and wine. An active women’s group was already in existence in Boston—Les Dames des Amis d’Escoffier, a branch of the prestigious all-male Les Amis d’Escoffier named after Auguste Escoffier. The Boston women’s group was noted for its spectacular dinners and other fund-raising events to benefit food and wine charities. There was as yet, however, no organization devoted to, or in support of, professional women in the industry. It took two years, but in 1973, with assistance from Eda Saccone of Boston and the approval of Joseph Donon, founder of the Les Amis d’Escoffier Society, Carol received a charter to form a new, autonomous “ladies chapter.” Breaking with Escoffier Society tradition, however, this Dames with World Globe. Caption: Left to right, Claire Boasi, chapter was to be for professional women only. In Jeanne Voltz, Elinor Kleeman, Carol Brock, Carol Haddix, Carol November of 1976, fifty professional women in the fields Mason, Saralie Slonsky, Laura Maioglio, and Dolores Snyder. of food, fine beverages and hospitality finally held their present and future accomplishments of professional women investiture and post-ceremony reception and supper at the in wine, food and hospitality. On December 3, 1986, also in French Consulate. Les Dames d’Escoffier New York New York, Les Dames d’Escoffier International held its (LDE/NY) was born. first board meeting. The following year, on October 24, At the time, women were just beginning to gain recog- 1987, the second LDEI board meeting convened in Chicago nition in an industry still largely dominated by men. The for further expansion planning. goal of LDE/NY, therefore, was to raise the image, as well It was in Philadelphia in 1988, however, that the first Les as the presence, of women in food, wine and hospitality Dames d’Escoffier International annual meeting was held, and to help them get the training necessary to qualify as which included a round of networking and educational equals to men in the industry. Les Dames members were activities for all members, along with the business sessions encouraged to serve as role models and mentors for attended by LDEI officers. This tradition of annual meet- women. ings hosted by rotating Les Dames cities continues. This was a formula clearly made for expansion. Indeed, At the close of the 1988 business meetings, LDEI presi- the founding members were prescient enough to prepare dent, CLAIRE BOASI created an ad hoc Strategic Planning for the ultimate formation of the International LDEI, by Committee, charged with developing a blueprint that determining in its original by-laws that this expansion would bring the LDEI vision to life. MYRA CLEMENT, then would begin as soon as there were five regional chapters. transferring from Dallas to New York, was designated Four additional chapters were subsequently formed: committee chair. In addition to Claire and Myra, the com- Washington, D.C. (1981), Chicago (1982), and Dallas and mittee consisted of incoming LDEI president DOLORES Philadelphia (1984). The presidents from all five chapters SNYDER (Dallas), N ANCY KIRBY HARRIS (Chicago), ANN met November 9, 10 and 11, in New York City to build the YONKERS (Washington, D.C.), SARALIE SLONSKY (New foundation for Les Dames d’Escoffier International (LDEI). York), and PAM HUNTER from the newly formed San They developed its proposed by-laws along with guidelines Francisco Chapter. for chapter formation and membership. An additional Their discussions and ultimate recommendations made organizational meeting followed on in April 12, 1986, at in their report to the Dallas Annual Meeting in 1989 CAROL MASON the home of in Washington, D.C. for fur- addressed administration and policy issues, new lines of ther planning of the investitute. The effort was to ensure a communication between regional chapters and LDEI, as strong international organization, while maintaining the well as special campaigns, programs and events that would regional integrity and individuality of each chapter. fulfill Les Dames’ mission. A three-year strategic plan was On October 27, 1986, a gala dinner held against the approved as well as our official colors of white and French backdrop of the giant, world globe located in the lobby of blue. Also on their agenda was creation of a framework for the NY Daily News building, officially launched LDEI. establishing a community interface nationwide to make the The landmark event was attended by members representing all five chapters, who joined together to celebrate the past, continued page 9

8 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Les Dames d’Escoffier LDEI PRESIDENTS Jean Voltz-MacKnight New York Chapter 1985 - 1987 International—A History Claire Boasi Philadelphia Chapter 1987 - 1988 Dolores Snyder Dallas Chapter 1989 - 1991 from page 8 Nancy Kirby Harris Chicago Chapter 1991 - 1993 society’s resources available to community Ann Harvey Yonkers Washington D.C. Chapter 1993 - 1995 agencies and institutions. In addition, the Nancy Brussat Barocci Chicago Chapter 1995 - 1996 Strategic Planning Committee recommended Beverly G. Barbour-Soules New York Chapter 1996 - 1997 steps to have LDEI Archives accepted as part Dorene Centioli-McTigue Seattle Chapter 1997 - 1998 of the permanent Culinary Archives at Pam Williams Vancouver B.C. Chapter 1998 - 1999 Johnson & Wales University in Providence. Abagail Kirsch New York Chapter 1999 - 2000 During DOLORES SNYDER’s presidency, Abby Mandel Chicago Chapter 2000 - 2001 LDEI secured a 501(c)(3) tax-exempt status and Renie Steves Dallas Chapter 2001 - 2002 trademarked the LDEI logo, which was origi- nally designed for the Washington, D.C. Chapter. LDEI began publishing a member- CHAPTER FOUNDING YEARS ship directory and a newsletter. A PR chair- New York - 1973 Adelaide - 1994 man was appointed. Washington, D.C. - 1981 Houston - 1994 At the 1990 annual meeting in San Chicago - 1982 New Orleans - 1995 (inactive) Francisco, JERRY DIVECCHIO proposed we honor MFK FISHER by founding a national Dallas - 1984 San Antonio - 1995 scholarship in her honor. AN TONIA ALLEGRA Philadelphia - 1984 Atlanta - 1996 and Jerry met with MFK and she gave her per- Le Donne del Vino, Italy - 1988, Minneapolis/St. Paul - 1996 mission for the Arts of the Table Scholarship 1999 Partner with LDEI Palm Springs - 1996 Award, which was approved at the annual San Francisco - 1989 Phoenix - 1996 meeting in Washington, D.C., in October Seattle - 1989 Kansas City - 1998 1991. It was also at this meeting that the mem- Boston - 1959, 1982 (LDEI) Hawaii - 2000 bers of Boston’s Les Dames des Amis d’Escoffier were grandfathered in as a chapter British Columbia - 1992 Miami - 2000 of LDEI. Los Angeles - 1993 The MFK Fisher Award, first presented in Seattle in 1992, was created to give recognition LDEI ANNUAL MEETINGS and financial support to a non-member woman 1988 Philadelphia 1996 New York in mid-career who was engaged in significant 1989 Dallas 1997 Los Angeles work in culinary, beverage, arts of the table, and related fields. The Grande Dame Award, 1990 San Francisco 1998 Houston which had previously been a regional chapter 1991 Washington D.C. 1999 Atlanta initiative, became an international award to 1992 Seattle 2001 San Francisco give recognition to a woman whose accom- 1993 Chicago 2001 Washington D.C. plishments in these fields were extraordinary. 1994 Boston 2002 San Antonio It was first presented in Chicago in 1993. These 1995 Vancouver B.C. 2003 Seattle two awards are presented in alternating years during the annual meeting, the first MFK Fisher Award and the first International SAVE THE DATES! Grande Dame Award. LDEI Annual Conference 2002 Over the years, LDEI’s reputation has San Antonio, Texas grown as well as its size. Chapter cities now October 17-20 Lcilla Jimenez and number 21, including two international chap- Elizabeth Adams of ters and one international affiliate. Even more the Miami Chapter. telling, the original NY group had set an initial goal of installing just 50 members of the best and the brightest women in the industry. Now, 25 years later, LDEI international boasts approximately 1,000 members and is still San Antonio growing. The goals and the mission of LDEI Dames at have remained constant, but as with any LDEI conference dynamic organization, changes have taken place along the way to fit the desires of the membership as well as to match the changing times. LDEI has never rested on its laurels.

9 Les Dames d’Escoffier International

The LDEI REMEMBERING WINDOWS ON THE WORLD

Kitchen Fund September 12, 2001 Dear Dames: Inspired by the leadership of the Los Angeles Chapter’s CATHERINE EVANS and Many, many culinary professionals perished yesterday, LINDA DOWNS, the LDEI Kitchen Fund was from Windows on the World restaurant on the 107th floor of born. Through another Los Angeles culinary the World Trade Center to short order cooks in every lit- professional, Linda Civitello, the chapter tle shop in the building. The culinary community has an learned that Escoffier had championed the opportunity now to do as the great, magnanimous Escoffier families of the Titanic’s kitchen staff — from did when the Titanic went down in 1912. The press made the dishwashers on up — who never made it much of the rich and famous on board — Astor, Rothschild, to the life boats when the ocean liner sank in etc. — and even though the restaurants and the excellent quality of the food were big drawing points, no one except 1912. He also organized relief efforts for the Escoffier remembered the kitchen staff. Most of the sur- families of kitchen workers killed in World vivors on the Titanic were first-class passengers; with a War I. couple of exceptions, the kitchen staff never made it to Thus, in the Escoffier tradition, the LDEI the lifeboats. Escoffier tracked down the names of as many Kitchen Fund is accepting contributions as he could and wrote the most thorough obituaries he (personal, business, fundraising) for the fam- could. A few years later, in World War I, Escoffier set up ilies of the kitchen personnel who lost their a fund for the families of the cooks who were killed, even lives in the World Trade Center terrorist though one of his own sons had been killed. attack, from the dishwashers on up. The LDEI Kitchen Fund, its purpose and mailing We need first, to memorialize those who perished in the terrorist attacks, and second, to set up a fund for their address, will be posted soon on our LDEI families, and do it the way Escoffier did it: down to the Web site. The funds will be collected by the dishwashers. It would be a wonderful thing if there could Los Angeles Chapter in a designated account be a permanent scholarship or award in the name of Windows according to LDEI’s tax exempt guidelines on the World, so people don’t forget. It was Escoffier who and then contributed to the Windows of began the “Diners d’Epicure,” where the same menu was Hope Fund in New York City. LDEI will be served simultaneously throughout restaurants in Europe. represented on the Windows of Hope Fund Wouldn’t it be nice to do a fundraiser this way, in one committee in the distribution of these funds. night, all across the country? Maybe all over the world. All contributions to the LDEI Kitchen There is a special place in my heart for Windows on the Fund are tax deductible. Checks should be World. I am looking at a recipe I have had for more than made out to LDEI Kitchen Fund and sent to 20 years which I got when a colleague ate at the restau- MITZIE CUTLER, 20863 Betron Street, rant and came back raving about a dessert he had tasted Woodland Hills, CA 91364. there. I called the restaurant and the then pastry chef The Atlanta Chapter sent $5,800 to the Nick Malgieri sent me his recipe for Frozen Amaretto LDEI Kitchen Fund, and $650 to the Green Souffle. Grocers Fund to benefit market farmers who lost their trucks, etc. on September 11. I am looking at that souffle-spattered recipe now. It lists the restaurants that were in existence when Windows The Los Angeles Chapter’s BARBARA first opened at the top of the World Trade Center: “The SEIDNER hosted a small dinner party where Restaurant,” “The Cellar in the Sky,” “The City Lights they shared stories about the significance of Bar,” “Hors D’Oeuvrerie,” and “The Statue of Liberty food and raised $300 for the LDEI Kitchen Lounge.” Now, of course, under gifted, personable Executive Fund. Chef Michael Lomonaco, there is —there were —”Windows on Following is the current roster of the the World,” “Wild Blue,” the “Greatest Bar on Earth,” all LDEI Kitchen Fund committee members. award-winning and all gone. . Dames interested in joining the committee contact ABBY MANDEL at mandelabby The special on September 11 at Wild Blue was Crisp @aol.com. Sweetbread Salad; at Windows on the World, Roast Suckling Pig. Gone are the Soft-Hearted Devil’s Food Cupcakes and the Lady Libertini, their unique martini. Gone are the LDEI Kitchen Fund Committee: private dining and catering rooms that served 2 to 2000; Elizabeth Adams, Miami the Ballroom where I attended the wedding of two college Mitzie Cutler, LA classmates; The Hudson, Manhattan, and Pinnacle Suites, the Linda Downs, Atlanta Cellar in the Sky, and the Liberty Suites — gone. The Wine Catherine Evans, LA School, under Kevin Zraly — gone. . Phyllis Liebert, Philadelphia Abby Mandel, Chicago The view from the 107th floor was indeed spectacular. As Gretchen Mather, Seattle you looked down into the harbor, the Statue of Liberty Bonnie Moore, DC raised her torch up toward you. Zagat says Windows on the World “put diners close to heaven.” Let’s band together Dodie Snyder, Dallas and, like Escoffier, help their survivors here on earth. Eileen Talanian, Philadelphia Lee Wooding, Philadelphia Linda Civitello Sonya Young, Atlanta

10 Les Dames d’Escoffier International The Snowflake from Canada By CiCi Williamson dimension of our bonding together as shown by the emails of None of us will ever forget September 11, 2001, but New York and compassion that came so quickly after the tragedies yesterday in Washington Dames were confronted with the burning buildings first hand. From NYC and DC. Your compelling empathy is the best that elec- my job in the sprawling U.S. Department of Agriculture building at 14th Street tronic handholding could offer! I am inspired by the compassion & Independence Avenue, I could see the menacing black plume from the Pentagon that all of you have expressed.” —-ABBY MANDEL, Chicago. attack just across the Potomac. The government closed down and I sped across the “What wonderful comradeship! We New York Dames are 14th Street Bridge a block away. My route home took me within a few hundred moved and thankful for all your friendship and caring. The last yards of the blazing Pentagon. The acrid black smoke flew in my car window, open time I felt this way was when JFK was killed. It is truly unbe- on a warm, cloudless day. lievable. The people in all phases of food service in New York While phones were soon overloaded, electronic mail connected us, and a continuously provide food. We had a triage center at Chelsea snowflake from Canada in the form of an e-mail floated into my mailbox. As the Piers and were able to feed people. Melanie Young has been mak- snowflake melted into a tear, more arrived to put out the fires of our pain. That ing sandwiches by the thousands and serving coffee with a team snowflake turned into a blizzard of e-mails from Dames, and as our New York of people at the Beard House since the tragedy occurred.”—- Chapter’s Stephanie Crane wrote, “an incredible, comforting image...to hold hands ABIGAIL KIRSCH, New York. electronically.” Here are some excerpts from the hundreds that flew between “Yesterday, an international day of mourning, our niece Canada, Australia and the States. But Cate Simpson’s e-mail started it all. Jennifer turned 30. Although we are planning a quiet dinner at “Dearest Les Dames members in the United States, I can’t an Italian restaurant this evening, she was so depressed that my even begin to tell you how incredible it is to watch what has husband, her fiance and I convinced her to accompany us to a unfolded in your country this morning. Canadians are not work- restaurant on Broad Street across from Philadelphia’s magnifi- ing, we are all in tears, some in the streets, many have stayed cent City Hall. At precisely 7 PM, we went outside and imme- home to watch the news. It is unimaginable that this could hap- diately saw about 40 employees of The Ritz-Carlton hotel across pen to you and we, as your neighbor, are devastated by your the street, - chefs in their sparkling whites and tall toques, monumental losses. I wanted to let you know that you are all in servers, bellmen, reservationists - leave the hotel and stand on the marble steps with votive candles flickering in the late summer our hearts and that our prayers are with you.” — CAT E SIMPSON, British Columbia breeze. Dusk was falling and the sky a beautiful pink and blue. It is an image I shall never forget. The Ritz is housed in a nearly 100 “It is humbling to see how many sisters have united together year-old marble building patterened after the Pantheon in Rome. so quickly. I was a breath away from being there, but the PR Soon children, teenagers and adults came walking up Broad gods smiled on me, and a conflict in scheduling kept me home to Street, the longest continuous street in the United States, with watch the terror unfold. Solidarity found in Les Dames is a com- candles and as tears came to my eyes, I hugged my niece and fort during such a bewildering time. Thank you sisters, for being wished her a happy birthday.” —-PHYLLIS STEIN-NOVAK, there.”—-ALICIA SHEERIN, Philadelphia Philadelphia, The City of “Sisterly” Love “The sense of our group of top-drawer decision makers clasp- Provincetown, Massachusetts, September 14, 2001 ing hands in a huge circle has helped me survive this last week “Last night as we lit our candle the dark sky cleared and there and a half. The touch is there, the comfort is there, and the feel- appeared a perfect double rainbow that rose up from from the ing that as a group, connected through the passion of our pro- ocean and ended in the bay, arching miles across the dunes, the fession, we will make a difference. The creativity and ideas of our heath, casting a rose colored glow over the coast line as far as the members for helping others are awesome. As I listened to the eye could see. I’ve never seen such a rainbow. Its colors were true President’s speech tonight, I became more convinced than ever and bright and it was in every sense something man can neither that a group like ours, pulling together in a united front, sets an create nor destroy. My friend said that it was a rainbow that God example to be proud of. As dozens of others have said, I am truly sent as a sign for Noah to release the dove. I saw it as the path- proud to be a member of LDEI. Raise a glass and toast to our way for all those souls going up to heaven. I thought of this cir- confidence in the future. With warmest thoughts,”—-RENIE cle of friendship with gratitude and hope.” —-LORA BRODY, STEVES, Dallas Boston “What an unexpected surprise and comfort met me when I “So many of you have shared and expressed your feelings and started going through my e-mails from you and the other thoughts. It has definitely given me food for the mind and soul. LDEI’s. Thank you for your swift and warm support, and for Our prayers are with all.” —-HEIDE VUKOVIC, Houston starting such a touching chain of messages. I literally burst into “Thank you all for reaching out, expressing your compassion tears as the power of solidarity swept over me. What an incredi- and concern. You have opened up all of our hearts to one anoth- ble group of women! Your messages have given me hope today.” er. The need for closeness of family and friends is so important —-KAREN COUNÉ, Minneapolis/St. Paul especially now. Thanks to electronic hand holding we have all “I was so awestruck with the incredible loss and evil destruc- made some new friends.” —-MARSHA SAYET, Miami tion yesterday, I was almost paralyzed. My mind quickly went “We will never get over this. But having a way to communi- to all the wonderful events at the World Trade Center — even to cate and share our pain and love is miraculous. It eases the fear my induction into Les Dames at a fabulous dinner at Windows just a bit.” —-JANE N EWCOMB, Palm Springs on the World in May in the early 1980s.”—--JANE BUTEL, New York “The strength and love I feel each time I read a note from a Les Dames is so overwhelming. The energy is so good and need- “Dear sisters of LDEI, I am returning to work today after my ed right now. Thank you. We are ALL affected. We’ve been wedding last Sunday. Going from such joy to such horror is a delivering brownie bites to the Blood Centers here in Phoenix reminder to never take ANYTHING we cherish in life for for the donors.” —-EILEEN SPITALNY, Phoenix granted. This includes our connection to each other through “I cannot tell you how heartened I was to open my e-mails LDEI. We have all been affected by this and we are not only con- and see compassionate messages from so many accomplished nected as sisters of LDEI but connected as fellow human beings women. I have always been proud to be a member of our fine that can’t help but weep for the family and friends of yesterday’s organization. Through this horrific tragedy, I feel such pride see- tragedy.” —-LISA DUPAR, Seattle ing all our members reaching out to each other. “—-RONNI L. “Along with your Executive Committee, I value the special MICHEL, Boston 11 Les Dames d’Escoffier International GREG JEWELL HIRED FOR LDEI MANAGEMENT The Board of Directors of Les Dames In Memoriam d’Escoffier International voted unanimously at BARBARA TROPP: Scholar Who the annual conference in October to retain the ser- vices of an association management company to Became Pathfinder Chef handle the organization’s affairs. AEC BARBARA TROPP of the San Francisco Management Resource, Inc., a Louisville, Chapter died on October 26 after a long Kentucky-based association management and battle with ovarian cancer. She will be event/conference planning company, will assume sorely missed by all who knew her. A added responsibilities from those handled by Barnard student of Chinese language and Susan Horrocks, who helped facilitate the associa- culture Barbara went on to a Masters tion’s workings for the past 8 years. Degree in Chinese literature and art from “I am thrilled to be working with such a prestigious group of profes- Princeton. She became interested in sionals,” said AEC president Greg Jewell, “and I look forward to con- Chinese cuisine while a student of poetic tributing to the continued growth and health of the organization.” AEC structure at the National University in stands for Association, Event and Conference Management Resources. Taiwan. Upon her return to the United It was the consensus of the executive committee and the board of States, she began cooking and developed directors that LDEI had reached a point in its evolution when it needed a style based upon using only the finest, an association management professional to help provide more structure freshest foods—as did her friend Alice and continuity at the international level. Waters at about the same time—in a com- Greg’s extensive background and success in managing professional bination of Chinese and French culinary associations in the foodservice industry fit the bill. During the past 15 concepts. Her restaurant China Moon years, he has served in management positions with the Society for was a ground-breaking success. Foodservice Management, the National Association of Catering Always a scholar, she wrote and Executives and the International Inflight Food Service Association, taught about cooking while chef/owner of the restaurant. She authored two among others. books, “China Moon Cookbook” and Effective November 1, AEC began serving as the headquarters office “The Modern Art of Chinese Cooking: of LDEI. The new contact information is at the end of this article. AEC Techniques and Recipes,” was a founder will also provide membership fulfillment services, help facilitate LDEI’s of Women Chefs and Restaurateurs and directory publication and monitor web-related issues. It will also handle this year received its President’s Award. a myriad of administrative responsibilities to assist the executive com- A memorial scholarship has been estab- mittee and board of directors. AEC will also provide conference-plan- lished in her name to enable young ning services for the AGM and work with each city’s host committee. women chefs to study in China. Her Greg will personally serve as a resource for strategic planning and policy friends are requested at her behest to and procedure-related issues. And, he will also work with the board to “drink a bottle of great Champagne with increase the organization’s effectiveness. someone you love.” Barbara Tropp AEC Management Resources, Inc. Memorial Fund, Women Chefs and Greg Jewell, President Restaurateurs, 405 West Liberty #201, P.O. Box 4961 Louisville, KY 40202. Louisville, KY 40204 502/456-1851; fax 502/459-5846 —Beverly Barbour-Soules, [email protected] San Francisco, LDEI Past President

New Orleans Chapter Disbands By CiCi Williamson, LDEI First Vice President mail. I researched a list of about 25 Louisiana women in the food and hospitality fields who might be potential Despite the efforts of JUDY ANDERSON and E MMA members, but the chapter couldn’t find a Dame willing to FREEMAN during the past two years, the New Orleans explore membership with them. chapter decided to disband as of September. Judy and Of course, all Dames are busy members of accomplish- Emma served as co-presidents from 1999 to 2001, but ment. But it seems to me that our many successful chap- were unable to find other chapter Dames to assume ters are composed of women in a variety of fields, some offices for 2002. of whom have flexibility in their schedules as well as The LDEI Executive Committee tried to help nurture heartfelt dedication to our mission. the chapter for several years. LDEI past president Abigail It’s also important to be sure prospective members and Kirsch visited the chapter a few years ago, and I visited the community understand the mission of LDEI. That them last year while in New Orleans on personal business. takes education, a public relations effort and the visibility Almost 100% of the chapter members were chefs or restau- that comes from holding programs, benefits and other rateurs at such high profile establishments as Commander’s events. The loss of the New Orleans Chapter can serve as Palace and Brennan’s. Judy said, “There are many food a wake-up call for chapters to keep their home fires burn- groups in New Orleans, all competing for participation.” ing with a spare cord of wood at the ready. We will miss After my visit, I kept in touch with the chapter via e- networking with our 19 former members of Les Dames.

12 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Chapter Programs ADELAIDE SUPPORTS “SMART KIDS, in a culinary career. Contact GWEN TROST (Sandrines [email protected]) for details. COOL COOKING” The Boston Chapter and Dame N ANCY MATHESON By Margaret Kirkwood, Adelaide Chapter BURN’s company, Dole and Bailey, joined other culinary Through various fund raising efforts, the Adelaide chap- organizations to sponsor “Sunday Supper” on November ter was able to physically and financially support a project 11. Restaurants throughout Boston served special menus, with the Women’s and Children’s Hospital department of the proceeds going to the United Way Unity Fund. Nutrition called “Smart Kids, Cool Cooking.” Contact [email protected] Its primary focus is to encourage children in the kitchen CHICAGO CHAPTER SPONSORS BREAST to prepare fresh food safely. With this in mind, the Adelaide Chapter and the Women’s and Children’s CANCER AWARENESS Hospital created an instructional pamphlet called “Smart Kids—Cool Cooking and presented it during “Tasting Australia.”

Nadia Cerro, senior dietition in nutrition promotion at the hospital said, “Safety issues become a barrier preventing many parents from allowing children to work in the kitchen, so we wanted to heighten the safety factor.” Seventy thousand copies were printed for distribution throughout South Australia to health professionals, phar- macies and children’s sport and leisure groups. The text deals with keeping children aged eight to 16 free from dan- ger in the kitchen. Boston Dames at LDEI conference This campaign was launched by celebrated Chef Stephanie Alexander at ROSA MAT TO’s Cookery School. In early October, the Chicago chapter co-sponsored a We felt proud to see the final result with our Les Dames Breast Cancer Awareness event at the Woman’s Club of d’Escoffier logo on the pamphlet. Dames attending “Taste Evanston focusing on the possible role that foods play in can- Australia” in October graciously found the time to support cer prevention and women’s health. It featured a nutritious the Adelaide Dames’ project. dinner buffet prepared by Chicago Dames highlighting “good” ingredients: vegetables high in beta-carotene, whole ATLANTA HOSTS DAMES grains, soy products, canola and olive oils, and green tea. The Atlanta Dishes included SARAH STEGNER’s Roasted Beet, Fennel chapter believes and Citrus Salad; RITA GUTEKANST’s Wild Rice Salad with in “Dames sup- Dried Fruit and Nuts; Mari Coyne’s Seven Grain Rolls; porting Dames” Dame PEGGY RYA N’s Wilted Greens Salad with French on a national Feta, Grapes and Red Onions; JULIE CHERNOFF’s Tuscan level. CAROLYN White Bean and Tuna Salad, and her Sweet Pea Guacamole; WENTE of the and Pat Butkus’ Barbecued Tofu Wraps. San Francisco chapter will be We finished with JANE DAVIS’ fiber-packed Crunchy in Atlanta host- Cowboy Cookies, a big hit with the fresh fruit platter. ing a winemak- After dinner, ers dinner at we heard a Atlanta Dames at LDEI conference Karen Bremer’s lecture by “City Grill” on Dr. Tina Nov. 5. ALICE MEDRICH was in town in October promot- Hieken, sur- ing her new book with a dessert buffet and signing at Dame gical oncolo- OPHELIA SANTOS’ “Ali Oli” and a cooking class at MARY gist at Rush- MOORE’s “The Cook’s Warehouse”. Contact North Shore [email protected]. Hospital, and MARY BOSTON MENTORS THIRD CHILD A BBOTT In conjunction with Mass Families for Kids, Les Dames Hess, who Boston is about to take on its third child to mentor. This managed to fifteen year old is in foster care in Boston, and is interested Chicago Dames at LDEI conference be informa-

13 Les Dames d’Escoffier International tive and entertaining. Door prizes were donated by the community service club of Flossmoor will host a commu- American Cancer Society and the evening’s program was nity dinner and pie auction for the LDEI Kitchen Fund. emceed by N ANCY HARRIS. The event will be called “AMERICAN PIE” and it will be Most importantly, we donated $250 to the American cooked, decorated, served, and cleaned up by the children Cancer Society in the name of Les Dames. Event attendee who are eager to make a difference in the lives of others. included Chicago Dames, Woman’s Club of Evanston Dames from the Chicago chapter will contribute special members and guests. The evening was such a success that pies for the “celebrity pie” part of the auction. we hope to make it an annual event.—-Julie Chernoff and Sarah Stegner, Program Co-chairs If there is no discernible reason for the horrors that have occurred, this tragedy has connected us as human beings, Chapters Respond to which is maybe the only useful outcome that we can expect from the unimaginable events of September 11. September 11 Terrorist Attacks San Chicago Francisco Taking its cue from Auguste Escoffier’s humanitarian Chapter efforts on behalf of kitchen workers when he collected funds for wives and children of workers who went to the All Dames front during World War I, Chicago Dames responded to mourned the the unimaginable tragic events of September 11 in a variety restaurant of ways. workers lost in the World Trade Center Restaurateurs MARIA CONCANNON,INA PINKNEY, and disaster, and CARRIE N AHABEDIAN joined other Windows of Hope Fund restaurants in donating ten percent of their October 11 recalled Escoffier’s profits to the fund. JEAN TRU E’s catering company, True San Francisco Dames at LDEI conference Cuisine, held a Windows of Hope dinner in their parking support to lot in Wheaton, Illinois. Two hundred local residents came such comrades lost in disasters such as the Franco Prussian to dine on all-American food—meat loaf, chicken, mashed War and the sinking of the Titanic. N ANCY OAKES of San potatoes, peas, corn homemade biscuits, and apple pie. Francisco honored her former pastry chef Heather Ho who Under a big tent, musicians and a choral group from was lost in the WTC’s Windows on the World. Oakes’ Naperville entertained the diners who visibly mingled with restaurant Boulevard joined restaurants around the nation the community’s firemen. Many vendors donated food Oct 11 by sharing profits for the Windows of Hope Fund products, tee-shirts, banners, and even a spot on the John by teaming with another former San Francisco employer of Williams WGN show. Charging $20 a person, Jean and her Heather to create a dinner at Restaurant Aqua as well as a group raised $2500. brunch at Boulevard. The entire proceeds of both event, $30,000, were matched by Heather’s father, and were given to a special Heather Ho scholarship fund at CIA. The gala LDEI president ABBY MANDEL and Chef SARAH fare included Heather’s special pastries. —-Gig Owen STEGNER cooked a sell-out dinner at Abby’s North Shore home, joining the groundswell of contributions to the LDEI Kitchen Fund, distributed by the Windows of Hope Dallas Chapter Fund. The dinner attended by 30 guests raised $10,000. The Dallas chapter donated more than $3000 to the This success was reinforced by sister Dames who generous- LDEI Kitchen Fund for Windows of Hope with the pro- ly rushed to donate the following items: Tablescape rentals ceeds of a potluck dinner event hosted by MYNETTA from KATHY RUFF, Jamison lamb from CARRIE COCKERELL and KAREN CASSADY at Marty’s, a gourmet N AHABEDIAN, miniature chocolate bars from E N-MING wine and food store, and funds from the Dallas chapter HSU. Abby and Sarah prepared the meal that consisted of treasury.—-Karol Wilson, Public Relations Chair Herbed Gougeres for horsd’oeuvres, Mushroom Tart appe- tizers, Lamb Duet garnished with Mashed Potatoes and Root Vegetables and Baked Fennel entrees, Baby Romaine with Herbs and Radish accompanied the cheese course. Warm Cranberry Apple Crisp with Ice Cream and Caramel Sauce was served for dessert. MARY HESS worked the line. It was a supremely rewarding experience to come together to support the kitchen helpers’ families from the World Trade Center.

MARIA BATTAGLIA and the good people at Kraft Foods have been busy packing boxes of food to send to needy per- sons world-wide. And on November 11, under JEANNE MCINERNEY’s guidance, seventy-five children from the Dallas Dames at LDEI conference

14 Les Dames d’Escoffier International HOUSTON CHAPTER RAISES $25,000 MINNEAPOLIS/ST.PAUL CHAPTER BENEFITS There’s always a first EASTSIDE CHILDREN’S GARDEN PROJECT time...and Houston dames did it! After By Meg Brownsen, Chapter Co-president much planning and hard work, we created a The Minneapolis/St. Paul Chapter held its annual successful recipe for our fundraiser on October 14 in historic Stillwater, Minnesota, first scholarship fund- on the St. Croix River. The events’ beneficiary was the raiser September 30th Eastside Children’s Garden Project which operates seven with “Kitchen gardens where children learn to tend the gardens and see Confidential.” The the results of their caring labor. Its goal is to help children theme was carried become part of community life, developing skills around throughout the event, food and the environment. Houston Dames at LDEI conference from the location site of Six Garden Project children helped run their booth at the a culinary school’s kitchens to some of the 160 guests who event. They raised $800 by selling dried floral wreaths, home- arrived in their favorite cooking attire. made vinegars, and their new cookbook, Fresh From the Four Houston-area culinary schools were the beneficia- ries of the fruits of our labors. The culinary schools’ instructors and students prepared the sumptuous dishes for the guests to enjoy as they moved from kitchen to kitchen. A prosperous ($9,450) Silent Auction, beverage bar and a fruit and cheese station was set up in yet another kitchen. Throughout the evening, roving musicians kept every- one entertained. Before “the kitchen is closed” was announced, guests were asking when we were planning our next event! Chaired by GINA LIUZZA and MARIAN TINDALL, Minneapolis Dames at LDEI conference we were tired but very happy when we learned that our ‘Kitchen Confidential” was a $25,000 winning recipe. Garden, a collection of Garden Project photos and 32 recipes tested by Les Dames members. Fundraiser guests enjoyed wine KANSAS CITY SCHEDULES and beer tasting, samples of imported olives, chocolate and arti- san cheeses donated by local restaurants and vendors, including FEBRUARY FUNDRAISER Sara Hill, Kathryn Wyand, Molly Broder and CHRIS LENTZ. By Judith Fertig, Chapter President Ken Goff of the Dakota Restaurant (spouse of Carmen The events of September 11 forced the Kansas City Bonilla), Brock and Natalie Obee of Cafe 128, and Pastry Chapter to re-schedule two of its upcoming events. Because Chef Laura Mell of La Belle Vie were among the area chefs chapter members reside in four states, one of its two who gave cooking demonstrations and served samples of required meetings was held via teleconference in their recipes. The chapter expects to present a check for over November. They used a Bridgeline phone conference. $6,000 to the Children’s Garden Project. For more informa- Dames interested in learning how to use this method of tion about the Project, call (651) 228-7073. To order the cook- communication can contact JUDITH FERTIG book, Fresh From the Garden, $9.00, contact Janice Cole at ([email protected]) Cooking Pleasures Magazine 952-352-7200, e-mail: . On February 6, 2002, the Kansas City Chapter will HAWAII CHAPTER HAS FIRST OFFICIAL EVENT hold: “Raising Our Glasses for the Windows of Hope: A Very Special Food & By Donna Jung, Chapter President Wine Event” which Our chapter just completed its first official event, “A will include a guided Dinner Party,” in the library of Honolulu’s Pu’uhale tasting of six wines Elementary School. The goal is to share the joy of dining paired with delicious and dinner conversation with children who, in turn, will nibbles. It will feature share it with their families. It’s impossible to report on who The Wine Bible author enjoyed The Dinner Party more, the fifth graders or the Karen MacNeil, direc- Dames! tor of wine programs at the CIA in Napa, with We thank New York Dame LYNN FREDERICKS , LDEI a “Wines You Can third vice president, for the inspiration provided by her Love for Under $10” Family cooking program that we adapted to fit our cir- theme. Contact MARY cumstances. And, fortunately, LORI WONG presents similar Kansas Dames at LDEI P FEIFERprograms professionally so we had the perfect leader! Dame conference ([email protected]) members from Hawaii resorts and independent restaurants

15 Les Dames d’Escoffier International

You can imagine our delight when we heard that there would be some of our fellow Dames visiting Adelaide for our October 2001 event “Taste Australia.” Six Dames and eight other food and wine writers from the United States attended the event. They were joined by 156 other writers from around the globe and were wined and dined 16 hours a day.

We were so excited and wanted to meet the Dames while they were here. Their itineraries were full of outings, tast- ings, dinners, and more dinners, that there hardly seemed time to be able to fit anything else into their schedules. Nevertheless, we did. The LDE Alelaide chapter greeted them warmly and hosted a dinner in their honor. Of the ten fabulous day trips, two included small plane rides to generously donated Kangaroo Island and Flinders Range in the Australian out- everything from back and one included a luxury train ride to the Barossa catering equipment region of Southern Australia. A memorable time was had to gourmet food— by all. French of course!— so that we could On Tuesday evening, October 9, we collected six Dames give the kids an from the hotel and escorted them to Rococo cafe owned by authentic fine-din- one of our members, SALLY N EVILLE. Because we knew ing experience. that there were some husbands visiting also, we invited our husbands as well. In fact, the husbands poured the wines, The kids’ enthusiastically enjoyed their introduction to cooked part of the meal and were just the greatest help. gourmet food and fine dining table settings. Our key to suc- cess was having a Dame at each table of students to provide It was a very informal night where we could all relax and hands-on assistance. Laughter mixed with a sense of accom- get to know each other. We loved hearing the occupations plishment as Faith OLELO PA’A OGAWA successfully taught of the visiting Dames and they heard about ours. Even the the children a bird-of-Paradise napkin fold. men contributed, and this added a touch of humour to the event. Thank you, Dames, for taking time out to meet with Dame chefs prepared the food and other members the Adelaide Chapter. served and cleaned up. Vice President JOAN N AMKOONG cre- ated a printed menu and take-home booklet for the stu- dents to share with their family and friends. Our chapter DAMES’ FOOD SECTIONS WIN HONORS has discussed organizing a multi-school statewide produc- The Association of Food tion of A Dinner Party to increase the number of kids Journalists named The San Antonio reached and the visibility of our Chapter. It’s a work in Express-News Food section best food progress! section in the 200,000-400,000-cir- culation category and awarded The DAMES ATTEND “TASTE AUSTRALIA” Colorado Springs Gazette third place in best food section with a circulation IN ADELAIDE under 200,000. The Express-News food editor and San Antonio Dame By Margaret Kirkwood PHOTO BY CICI WILLIAMSON is KAREN H ARAM. Food writer Teresa and Jerry BONNIE WALKER assists her and Farney Dames at LDEI conference another Dame, PAT MOZERSKY writes a column called “Chefs’ Secrets” in the winning sec- tion.

The Gazette food editor is TERESA FARNEY, a member of the Washington DC Chapter, who is hoping to charter a Colorado chapter. Haram and Farney accepted their awards at the association’s annual conference in Las Vegas.

Judges called the Express-News’ section “clearly superi- or,” noting it showed “great diversification” and “depth of knowledge.” They touted The Gazette for its “reader- Left to right: Carol Ritchie (Dallas), Carol Kotkin (Miami), Jeannie friendly, well-labeled features, good use of sidebars, break- McInerney Lubeck (Chicago), Barbara Gibbs Ostmann (Kansas out boxes, and good use of photography” and called its “7- City), Karen Levin (Chicago), and Renie Steves, (Dallas). day menu planner a great feature to include.”

16 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Member Milestones ATLANTA E LAINE GONZALEZ was a speaker at The Culinary Institute of America’s Fourth Annual Worlds of Flavor GENA BERRY’S Culinary Works culinary consulting Conference and Festival November 8-10 at the Greystone company now offers strategic communications planning. campus. She appeared at the New York Chocolate Show She has taken on associate Melanie McCraney, a in November at the Metropolitan Pavilion in New York media/PR specialist with a broadcast journalism and City. corporate communications background. The Georgia Specialty Food Association recently awarded Culinary JOYCE LOFSTROM will become president of the Works a contract to provide strategic communications Consumer Science Business Professionals (CSBP) in and marketing solutions. January 2002. During her term, she will work with the CSBP Board to help develop the strategy and Gena has been working on a “Taste of the NFL,” a programming for the organizations annual conference: Super Bowl event, which will be held in New Orleans on Consumer Trends Forum in Chicago March 21-23 at the February 2, 2002. This event raises dollars and awareness Holiday Inn City Centre. for Hunger Relief efforts across the U.S. Each of 32 stations pairs a stellar chef from each NFL city with a player DALLAS representing the team. The chefs prepare a signature dish which is paired with a Gallo wine. There are about 2,000 PAULA LAMBERT taught cooking classes for BARBARA attendees and always a headliner entertainer. FENZL in Phoenix, competed in the Iron Pan Classic www.tasteofthenfl.com. benefiting American Farmland Trust in Fort Worth, spoke to a women’s club, taped a PBS cooking class in MELISSA LIBBY incorporated the food styling and recipe Houston, and was a featured author and panelist at the testing expertise of several sister Dames for her book Texas Book Festival in Austin. Atlanta Cooks ($29.95), which was published in November. SHARON MEEHAN, owner of the famed Dallas-based The book features 125 recipes from 25 of Atlanta’s Ham I Am, brought home the bacon! Her bacon, part of favorite chefs. Atlanta Cooks is available in participating her line of hams, turkeys, lamb chops and a condiment Atlanta restaurants, bookstores and retail outlets or for called Hogwash, was named Best Bacon Product by online purchase at . November’s Esquire magazine. Founded in 1985, Ham I Am is found in specialty retailers, catalogs and online at BOSTON www.hamiam.com. DOLORES SNYDER attended the Texas Exes Scholarship LISA E KUS has expanded her company services to include literary agenting for cookbook authors. She also Awards at the Alumni Center of The University of Texas launched, , a new Web site that showcases cookbooks, in Austin this September. The Dolores Snyder Les Dames recipes, chefs and culinary sites. In March 2002, she will d’Escoffier Scholarship in Nutrition was one of 12 new be one of the featured speakers at The Symposium for endowments honored at this event. The winner received Professional Food Writer’s Conference at the Greenbriar $1,000 to continue her studies in nutrition. in West Virginia. HAWAII BARBARA LAUTERBACH will publish her first book Potato JOAN N AMKOONG Salads (Chronicle Books of San Francisco) in May 2002. has published Go Home, Cook Rice, a compilation of articles from her years as food editor of The Honolulu Advertiser. It focuses on island grown food CHICAGO products. The 104 page four-color book has 70 plus recipes and is $20, including postage, for Dames. To N ANCY SILER of Wilton Industries appeared on QVC order, send a check to Namkoong Publishing, P.O. Box in October presenting Wilton’s Harry Potter Cake and 61053, Honolulu HI 96839. Cupcake Decorating Set. She also appeared on Chicago’s CBS affiliate to demonstrate Halloween cupcake decorating and to show homemade Halloween candy, KANSAS CITY cakes, cookies, candy lollipop and cookie pop JUDITH M. FERTIG announced the October debut of her arrangements, and ghost rice cereal treats. new cookbook Prairie Home Breads: 150 Splendid Recipes from America’s Breadbasket (The Harvard Common Press, 2001). GALE GAND was honored at the American Food & Entertaining Awards at New York’s Le Cirque 2000 in BARBARA GIBBS OSTMANN’S The Recipe Writer’s Handbook, September along with thirteen other culinary luminaries co-authored with Jane Baker. (Wiley, 2001), won a Bronze who “have made a delicious difference in our country’s at the World Food Media Awards in the Best Soft Cover culinary landscape and have most influenced our taste and Food Book Category in Australia this past October. style.” Gale’s third cookbook Gale Gand’s Just a Bite written While Down Under, Ostmann spoke on recipe writing at with Julia Moskin (Clarkson Potter, 2001) was published Tasting Australia’s International Food and Wine Writers’ this fall. Festival.

17 Les Dames d’Escoffier International NEW YORK PHOENIX BARBARA POOL FENZL, CCP, hosted a three-hour television show, A is for Appetizers, on December 1 during Arizona’s KAET public television fundraising pledge drive. Ms. Fenzl will cook and help guests demonstrate their favorite appetizer recipes, all of which will be included in a cookbook, A is for Appetizers. SAN ANTONIO Dames Aid Library Benefit New York Dames at LDEI conference By Cynthia Guido PAT BARTHOLOMEW, Dean, School of Professional Studies at NYC Technical College, made an October presentation “The Dream Kitchen, an examination of women and food in films” at the International Association of Women Chefs and Restaurateurs in Santa Monica:.

LAURA MAIOGLIO and Barbetta Restaurant Chef Alberto Leandri, traveled to Asti, Italy in September, laden with all the American ingredients to prepare a traditional Thanksgiving dinner for over 500 curious Piemontesi. Barbetta was the only foreign restaurant invited to participate in Asti’s famed Douja d’Or, an “Loteria” is an age-old Mexican card game that remains annual 10-day marathon tasting of food and wine. popular to this day. The deck is comprised of colorful images ranging from the sun and moon, to a zaftig HENNY SANTO, former NYC restaurateur - The Sign of mermaid. It was this traditional game of chance, with its the Dove, Arizona 206, Ecce Panis, etc — has opened folkloric Latin charm, that inspired the New World raffle Santo Consulting Group in Fort Lauderdale with her which helped our chapter raise almost a thousand dollars husband and another former business associate. They are at Hemisfare 2001, centerpiece event of the San Antonio working with new and existing restaurants and other New World Wine & Food Festival. hospitality businesses throughout the United States.. For the second year, San Antonio’s “enchilada red” JANEEN SARLIN is teaching cooking classes every Central Library offered the perfect backdrop for this Wednesday at a new site, CBK Cookies, on Manhattan’s foodies’ fantasy fulfilled. The evening included myriad upper East Side. The classes are small, full participation, morsels prepared by chefs from Mexico to Manhattan, and focused on seasonal and current food trends using wines from all of the Americas poured by chi-chi classic techniques. Call 212-517-8514, e-mail , or visit her volunteers, a hot Latin marimba band... and for just ten new website bucks, a card that guaranteed a treasure from the San MARGUERITE THOMAS is working on the fourth edition Antonio Dames’ tastefully decorated Loteria trove. of Wineries of the Eastern States (Berkshire House Publishers), Collecting the booty was easy: each Dame contributed a travel guide to select wineries from Massachusetts or solicited an item. Nothing needed to be too dear, through Virginia. To be released in October 2002, the cookbooks and baskets of food items were particular book describes the wineries and the exciting new wines favorites with revelers both this year and last. coming from these emerging viticultural regions. Wearing our LDEI aprons to sell Loteria cards on the KIMBERLY TRYBA has been appointed Director of evening of November 2, 2001 offered our chapter Marketing for New York Magazine’s sister publication incredible opportunity in addition to a fabulous time. We IN-New York. Tryba oversees marketing and sales were able to raise LDEI’s profile in our community, to initiatives, and pr/communications. She welcomes Dame support the city’s Library and Park Foundations (the submissions of NY-centric information on restaurant beneficiaries of the San Antonio New World Wine & openings, new menus, events, merchandise, trends, Food Festival), and to contribute as a group to a citywide locations, etc. for editorial consideration. celebration of the cuisines and cultures that flavor San MINNEAPOLIS-ST. PAUL Antonio.

PAULETTE MITCHELL’S ninth cookbook Vegetarian SAN FRANCISCO Appetizer, (Chronicle Books) was published, in September LINDA ANUSASANANAN, as a spokesperson for the 2001. Her 15-Minute Gourmet cookbook series was California Milk Advisory Board and Sunset Magazine Senior awarded Best Cookbook Series at the 2000 World Writer, completed a four-city media tour promoting the use Cookbook Fair in Perigueux, France, the same event of nonfat yogurt cheese in holiday entertaining as shown in where, in 1998, her Complete Soy Cookbook was named Best Sunset’s November issue. She appeared on a dozen television, Health Cookbook. radio, and print interviews.

18 Les Dames d’Escoffier International

JERRY ANNE DI VECCHIO, our 2001 Grande Dame for her All-American Cookie Book. Host Linda Wertheimer recently retired as editor in chief of Sunset Magazine but con- focused her interview on cookies as “comfort food.” Nancy tinues to write for the monthly and expects publication of notes that the NPR airing jumped her book’s ranking into her 300-page, 15th Sunset Recipe Annual Cookbook in the top 100 best sellers on Amazon.com! November. Froth au Lait, a cookware appliance manufac- SUSAN DERECSKEY will be a featured speaker at the turer, now boasts Jerry as a board member advising them Symposium for Professional Food Writers at the on design, marketing, and recipes. Also, Jerry consults for Greenbrier, March 20-24, 2002. She will speak on Cycles of Nancy’s Specialty Foods and other companies. Food Writing and participate in a panel on Writing and JANET FLETCHER announces the publication of Napa Editing Contemporary Cookbooks. Stories: Profiles, Reflections & Recipes from the Napa Valley (Stewart, SUSAN GAGE catered the luncheon for Secretary of State Tabon & Chang) co-authored with chef Michael Chiarello. Colin Powell and President of Mexico’s Vicente Fox in The coffee-table book includes reminiscences from promi- September at the Department of State. It was a huge success nent writers and sidebars on the art of winemaking. for the 250 attendees and a real honor for Susan. AN TONIA ALLEGRA conducted a communications work- CONNIE HAY is a contributing editor for Better Homes shop and coached culinary professionals during the 2002 and Gardens’ Eating for Life, featuring recipes to help heal International Foodservice Editorial Council Conference in and prevent diseases. This is her 11th cookbook for Providence this fall. She also was a judge of the Johnson & Meredith Books. Connie continues to test recipes for cook- Wales cooking/writing competition. books and is currently writing and developing recipes for a CAROLYN WENTE was awarded San Francisco Business dessert book. Times’ Women in Leadership Award for 2001 and the JOAN N ATHAN’s second season of PBS’s Jewish Livermore Valley Assembly District’s Woman of the Year Cooking in America with Joan Nathan is under way. She 2000. In addition, Wente Vineyards was one of only eight will feature a 93-year-old cooking maven in Vermont, businesses that the California Department of Pesticide Andre Soltner making carpe a la juive, Wolfgang Puck Regulation honored with an Innovator Award for its preparing Jewish pizza, and — filming throughout the Integrated Pest Management practices. country — the stories of three different-yet-similar dishes, tortellini, kreplach, and wonton. SEATTLE N ORA POUILLON continues to be in the news with KATHY CASEY has a new website! . And, she has expand- features in September issues of More magazine and Good ed Kathy Casey Food Studio to 6000 sq. ft. It is now open Housekeeping. In October, she spoke on The Organic to the public for cooking/cocktail classes, special events, Kitchen at the Bioneers conference in California, , and meetings and business get-togethers. The Web site features was also honored by New Hope Media for her class schedules, recipes, articles, upcoming cookbook sign- contribution to the organics industry. ings, TV appearances, and a chat forum.DIANA DILLARD PATTI RAVENSCROFT of Les Liaisons Delicieuses received an Excellence Award from the National lnstitute culinary excursions offers a Winter Indulgence in Truffles for Staff and Organizational Development from the and Wild Game at her beautiful Hotel, La Feniere in University of Texas at Austin. Lourmarin, France, with her favorite woman chef in Provence, Reine Sammut. If a group of 6 to 8 Dames CHRISTINE KEFF volunteered as guest chef for Seattle wants to put together a group, she would be happy to Central Community College’s Culinary Arts annual negotiate dates in late January or February, customize the Harvest Dinner in November. The dinner raises funds for trip to suit the group’s interests, and donate 20% of each student scholarships. person’s fee to a food related charity which the group CYNTHIA N IMS and KATHY CASEY’S new book Best selects. The trip is described in detail on her Web site: Places, Seattle Cookbook (Sasquatch, 2001) has just been www.cookfrance.com . released. The book comprises 125 recipes and signature ANNE WILLAN’s newest book, Cooking with Wine drinks from the city’s hottest chefs. (Harry Abrams & Sons, 2001) was published in association with COPIA: The American Center for Wine Food and WASHINGTON DC the Arts. All the proceeds from the book will be donated to the Center. She will kick-off her twelfth season of LaVarenne at the Greenbrier in early March. UPCOMING TRIP TO BORDEAUX Oldways Preservation and Exchange Trust in conjunction with Harvard University is sponsoring a trip to Bordeaux with cookbook authors, Patricia Wells and Paula Wolfert, and well-known nutritionist Dr. Walter Willett. This unique trip will visit vineyards, artisanal food producers, and many local markets through the Aquitaine region. Space is limited on this educational tour. For N ANCY BAGGETT guested on National Public Radio’s reservations and information please contact Aimee Burke “All Things Considered” Nov. 6 as part of a publicity tour 617-896-4888 [email protected].

19 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Dames Manufacture Foods CHICAGO CHAPTER Asked for her personal views on the demands and rewards of this challenging position, she says: “What I do is By Joan Reardon a daily source of satisfaction and fulfillment. Management and employees are all members of an extended family and Chicago, long home to multinational food manufactur- we are dedicated to the production of a truly great prod- ers like Kraft Foods, Sara Lee, Oscar Mayer, and other stel- uct.” www. Elicheesecake.com lar companies, also boasts a score of Les Dames d’Escoffier members who are successful entrepreneurs in both interna- tional companies and creative national food manufacturing Jeanmarie Brownson - Mexican Foods businesses. Co-Owner and Culinary Director Frontera Foods, Inc. Frontera Foods, Inc., is a specialty food company and Carolyn Collins - Caviar maker of regional, authentic Mexican foods and organic Founder and President Collins Caviar Company corn tortilla chips, founded in 1996 by partners Rick and In November of 1983 Carolyn Collins turned sport fish- Deann Bayless, Manny Valdes and JeanMarie Brownson. ing into a profession when her hand-made fresh Salmon As Culinary Director, JeanMarie works closely with the and Trout caviars became an exclusive menu item for a company’s plants to teach the employees classic Mexican Chicago restaurant. She had been making caviars in her methods—everything from husking fresh tomatillos to Crystal Lake kitchen for years, but it took the urging of a roasting dried chiles and ripe tomatoes. She also oversees all particular chef to get her into commercial production. By new products from the development stage in the company the fall of 1985 the company was shipping to restaurants test kitchen above the Frontera Grill restaurant, to the test and retailers nationwide. batches produced at the manufacturing facilities. Once a new product formula is finalized, Brownson attends the Collins Caviar, is the only artisan processor of Salmon runs at the various plants Frontera uses to co-pack their and Trout caviars in North America and, to meet customer products. When the products are on the store shelves, the demand, has expanded her line to include salt Hackleback Frontera culinary team conducts quality tests to make sure Sturgeon, Paddlefish, and American Golden Whitefish the products maintain the Frontera standards. caviar. By comparison, she hand-makes twenty pounds of her premium caviar an hour versus a company that JeanMarie and her team also are the creators of Salpica machine-produces hundreds of pounds an hour. Salsas, Maraca Margarita Mixes and private label products for customers including Crate & Barrel and Williams- Always an innovator, Carolyn began designing a series Sonoma. In all, more than 50 new products have emerged of flavor-infused and smoked caviars based on the sparkling from the team that began with five Frontera salsas just 5 golden whitefish caviar. In, 1986 when Carolyn’s daughter years ago. “I’ve always worked in kitchens,” JeanMarie says, Rachel joined her business, the company premiered the “But the plants are much larger and more challenging.” Ultimate Bagel Schmeer. Delegating more and more of the day-to-day operations to her daughter leaves Carolyn time to initiate lecture series, devise caviar dinner events, and Nicole Bergere - Baked Goods Co-owner and President of Nicole’s Bake Shop participate in educational presentations. Since Nicole Berger and her business partner Grace Jolene Worthington—Say “Cheesecake” Colucci started Nicole’s Bake Shop on the North side of Executive Vice President, Eli’s Cheesecake Company Chicago in 1984, their baking company has created a line of breads and baked goods for prestigious hotels and restau- Opened by Eli Schulman 56 years ago, the famed rants. They have supplied leading gourmet supermarkets Chicago restaurant, Eli’s The Place For Steak, created a with a line of quiches, pies, and focaccia. In 1996, Nicole international wholesale and retail market for its delicious introduced a variety of handmade crackers: Simply cheesecake. While still a family enterprise, The Eli’s Sumptuous Salt, Perfectly Pepperery, Oh! For the Love of Cheesecake Company depends upon its employees to pro- Herb, Crackin’ Good Cheese, Slightly Sensuous Sesame, duce and market its gourmet cheesecakes and frozen and Risky Rye. They were an immediate success and in desserts and upon its executive vice president Jolene demand across the country. Worthington for company leadership. Although the Bake Shop supplies to the trade, the For several years Jolene has been wearing many hats as recently-opened Café adjacent to the Bakery serves soups, the vice president for operations, manufacturing, research salads, panini, and sweets and offers customers an opportu- and development, human resources, and the retail store: nity to purchase retail items, including sauces and chutneys. Eli’s Cheesecake World. Whether it is a guided tour of Eli’s state-of-the-art production facility for or a need to develop “Creating something glorious under difficult circum- the PR strategy on a joint project with United Airlines, stances has been a challenge,” says Nicole. She has enjoyed Jolene will be involved. Long regarded as a manufacturer a variety of careers from dress designer on the Costa del Sol within a community framework, the Eli’s Cheesecake facil- to innkeeper and baker in a small hotel in Wisconsin, but ity and retail store can be the setting of everything from a the Bake Shop has been the most satisfying one to date. seasonal farmer’s market to a special fundraiser. 1505 North Kingsbury, Chicago, Il 60622.

20 Les Dames d’Escoffier International

ADELAIDE CHAPTER produces chutneys, jams, slices, cakes and biscuits. Her most popular item is a brilliant orange-colored kumquat By Margaret Kirkwood marmalade whose production involves painstakingly Ragine Dey—Spices and Condiments removing the tiny citrus fruit’s seeds. Ragine Dey is the director of Dhaba at the Christine spent most of her life in the outback areas of Spice Kitchen (Food Australia and her style of country cooking reflects an with Spice) overseeing inventive use of available ingredients and the necessity to food production, menu make it in abundance to feed unexpected visitors. She formulation, quality enjoys the warm camaraderie of her customers — a cross- control, staff training section of Australiaa’s population. and customer relations. Committed to introduc- Belinda Hanson-Kenny ing the public to the real Sweet and Savoury Pastries food of India, the com- As manager of prod- pany sells individual uct development for the spices, home made fruit past twoand a half years and vegetable pickles and chutneys.. In addition, it operates at Balfours Pty Ltd, one a regional India Food Restaurant, holds monthly cooking of the largest fresh daily classes and presents a monthly Sunday buffet lunches that bakeries in Australia, showcases different regional specialities each time. Food Belinda-Hanson-Kenny with Spice also manufactures a variety of curry blends in the is a tastemaker. With convenience packs to make it easy for home cooks to use two assistants, she is and experience authentic tastes of India. involved in enhancing the companies line of Sonia Brown—Chocoholics Synonymous sweet and savoury pas- Sonia Brown is the tries and meat and fruit Director of Villawin Pty pies, pasties and sausage rolls, and its large variety of cakes Ltd, trading as and fresh yeast and Danish products. Balfours bakery is Chocoholics over 100 years old and has spent the last 80 in the same Synonymous. Sonia has quarters. But, business has been good and next year the been in the business for approximately 500 employees, including bakers and manu- 22 years with a shop in facturing staff, sales and marketing, distribution and dri- the city for the past four vers, technical and administrative departments, moves to a and the business contin- new, larger bakery. When not busy at Balfours, Hanson- ues to expand. Sonia Kenny also serves as the Adelaide Chapter’s 2001-02 presi- produces a wide range of dent. high-quality chocolates, cakes, pastries and dessert, primarily for the catering industry. But she also has Josie Revesz—European Cookies a growing following for her fabulous special occasion cakes Josie Revesz, owner made with fresh cream, custard, mousse and, of course, lots and operator of Pane and lots of chocolate. She creates custom cakes of any size Dolce, manufactures and can accommodate special dietary needs as well. Her gourmet biscuits (i.e. hours are long but gratifying. And she is proud that she has cookies). The products built a reputation for being there to assist chefs in their var- are based on traditional ious businesses at short notice. European recipes with an innovative twist. She Christine Cowan—German-style Breads puts a high priority on Christine Cowan is the purveyor of German style quality ingredients that breads, savory pies, pasties, pates, quiches, and vegetarian give her biscuits have foods at her Gourmet to Go stall in the bustling Adelaide home-made quality and Central Market. The market boasts 68 fresh food stalls sell- flavour. Pane Dolce, ing vegetables, fish, meat, poultry, cheeses, Asian, established in 1995, began as a small home-based hobby Continental and Australian foods. If you are prowling the business. Within 2 years, it was supplying local and inter- stalls and find yourself a bit peckish [hungry], Cowan can state gourmet food outlets, cafes and restaurants. Josie’s for- heat up one of her venison pies or offer you an individual mer career in art education influenced the asthetics of Pane serving of dessert. Dolce’s products. Her fantastic combinations of fig and pis- tachio, coffee and cashew, hazelnut and mango, and She also makes a variety of gluten free products and macadamia and wattleseed, among others, taste great and foods for those with special dietary needs. In addition, she have immediate visual appeal.

21 Les Dames d’Escoffier International History of the New York Chapter, Part One By Carol Brock, Founder Here is the beginning, a tale told qualified women had committed to join. Alexis Lichine innumerable times over the past 30 agreed to host an organizational meeting at his home on years. At a food journalism confer- Fifth Avenue. Over 40 prospective members signed on. By ence in Chicago, Dorothy Crandle, staying on the phone, I upped the number to 49, then 50. food editor of the Boston Globe, men- Not only must Dames be the highest achievers but each tioned that wives of the all-male Les event must be outstanding in every detail. “This was the Amis d’Escoffier Society had formed first time in history,” Beverly noted at a committee meet- Les Dames des Amis d’Escoffier of ing in the Daily News test kitchen, “that women were orga- Boston in 1959 which gave elegant nizing on their own credentials.” These dinners were occa- epicurean dinners. I knew immediate- sions to spotlight the excellence of women in the culinary, ly that New York must have one. wine and hospitality fields.

E DA SACCONE, who presided over the Boston women’s THE INVESTITURE: NOVEMBER 8, 1976 society for 33 years, declared, “We want her to do it the right way” (i.e. with a charter), and wholeheartedly assisted For our investiture, Tiffany designed napkin ring in securing it. In 1973, a charter was given to “Carol Brock bracelets, and Halston, Irish linen serviettes. The male of the New York Daily News” to organize a “ladies chap- Escoffier society insisted on serviettes au cou (“napkins to the ter” in New York. For the next three years, at every event neck”) at their biannual dinners to glorify food and wine of the Wine and Food Society, dinners of the Gourmet with rules of the table—no politics and no smoking. Society, and food or wine press gathering, I inquired of Napkins did not tuck well into a low-cut formal gown. An male epicures, “Which New York women are qualified to elongated, triangular white linen napkin, Halston’s Les become members?” They could not think of even one. Dames female version, tied about the neck.

Finally a few were identified and the climate was right to At the French Consulate in Manhattan, champagne and organize. I called together a founding committee of women hors d’oeuvres were served with discreet with various food connections: violins playing in the background. The investiture was held in the foyer in front of the tall, marble fireplace. • BEVERLY BARBOUR, an international public relations and marketing specialist whose husband was president of the Three candles were lighted: for Les Culinary Institute of America (the CIA connection); Amis d’Escoffier by George Wilson; for Les Dames des Amis d’Escoffier by E DA SACCONE; and for Les • MARY LYONS with Foods and Wines of France (the Dames by myself. A young French connection); chef rang her dinner bell as each of the 50 charter members • E LAYNE KLEEMAN, who was responsible for the first stepped forward and had the wine auction (the wine connection); serviette placed about her neck first, then the napkin ring bracelet on a light blue velvet rib- • HELENE BENNETT, executive director of the Wine and bon. She proceeded to the steps of the mansion’s grand Food Society (the gourmet society connection); and curving staircase.

• E LLA E LVIN, food editor of the New York Daily News Each Dame had been sent three invitations that could be (the corporate connection). The Daily News provided sent to acquaintances. In those days when “black tie” was secretarial assistance, mailings, meeting space, the dress, Dames felt more comfortable with escorts. James photography and such for many years. Beard was there as were the heads of Chevalier d’Tartevin and Chaine des Rotisseurs. After the ceremony followed a This founding committee who charted the concept late supper and dancing. The French counselor comment- never ceased believing and never ceased giving. Four subse- ed, “My home never looked as beautiful.” It was an auspi- quently became Les Dames d’Escoffier presidents, begin- cious beginning. ning with me in 1976, and then Mary, Beverly and Ella. Helene was New York’s first vice president and co-founder The founding committee of six determined that Les of Washington, D.C., our second chapter. Elayne has been Dames would be a professional organization with educa- an active defender of the original concept. tion and networking the focus of our meetings in addition to a yearly, formal investiture dinner in the Escoffier tradi- The committee culled and added to the list of potential tion. Funding scholarships for women would be a major members to ensure that each was outstanding in food, wine objective. And, as stated in the original constitution and or hospitality and an achiever in her own right, not by mar- bylaws, when there were five chapters, Les Dames riage. New York, they decreed, would organize when 50 d’Escoffier International would be organized.

22 Les Dames d’Escoffier International THE PREMIERE DINNER AND OTHERS

Our premiere dinner chaired by E LAYNE KLEEMAN was put together with utmost care and concern — our creden- tials were on the line. It was held on March 27, 1976, at the prestigious Carlyle Hotel on Madison Avenue. The dinner included Mousse de Foie de Canard, Coquille Saint Jacques a la Nago, Selle d’Agneau Forestiers, Asperges Sauce Moutarde, and for dessert, Souffle Glace a la Chartreuse.James Beard attended and so did JULIA CHILD. To entice media coverage, Julia was named the first Grande Dame, an award whose intrinsic merits was deemed worthy of continuation. Each of our annual investiture dinners showcased a seg- ment of our membership. A committee of restaurateurs, chaired by GRACE KENT with LAURA MAIOGLIO, owner of Barbetta, and MARINA DE BRANTES, owner of Coupe d’Facile, orchestrated a dinner at the Harkness Pavilion. MFK Fisher Julia Child and Jacques Pepin. Laura had a stove moved into the catering kitchen so her chef could prepare risotto properly. Cheese straws were night to remember was chaired by MARY E CKLEY who vis- served from baskets by ballerinas from Harkness as they ited MFK and the owner of the ranch where MFK’s “Last pirouetted amongst the tables. House” stood. BEVERLY BARBOUR-SOULES, now a San Women chefs prepared a groundbreaking dinner at the Francisco Dame, is trying to save that house and has asked Waldorf-Astoria Hotel on February 14, 1978. L ESLIE for Les Dames’ support. MFK’s obituary later appeared on REVSON, the first woman chef of the Waldorf, headed a the front page of The New York Times. team of 15. They prepared our investitute dinner there for Another night to remember was the dinner given by the 135 at the cost of $135 each. Desserts, made by the New York Les Amise Escoffier Society in Les Dames’ Windows on the World pastry chef, were served from honor at the CIA featuring recipes Escoffier created and rolling carts. A spectacular four-foot high bouquet of named for women. I received an Escoffier medal there. And carved vegetables graced the reception. Arno Schmidt, exec- at an Escoffier dinner at the CIA honor Joseph Danon, the utive chef of the Waldorf and member of the Escoffier most famous private chef in America and the founder of Society, and executive chef Willie Spry had supported me Les Amis d’Escoffier, I presented him with a bottle of fine in founding Les Dames. Helen Duprey Bullock was chosen old brandy as a token of appreciation for his support of Les Grande Dame. Dames d’Escoiffier. Appropriately I had received the bottle when writing a piece defining French menu terms. MFK FISHER MADE GRANDE DAME CAROL BROCK FOURTH GRANDE DAME SYLVIA SCHUR, our second president, proposed that Les Dames purchase a house at Villeneuve-Loubet in France Women student chefs at the New York Technical opposite the home of the Escoffier Museum. She also envi- College in Brooklyn, under the leadership of Barbara Kafka sioned a Les Dames reading room in the New York Public assisted by Paula Wolfert, prepared another groundbreak- Library on Fifth Avenue at 42nd Street. The library agreed ing dinner on May 21, 1980. It was also at New York Tech providing we could raise a million dollar donation, a feat that Les Dames and their daughters were feted at a lun- we couldn’t accomplish. I often wonder, “If it had hap- cheon where Paul Bocuse made amends for having made pened, would a serviette replace the wreath on the two disparaging remarks concerning women in the professional lions out front at Christmas?” kitchen. At this dinner, Carol Brock was chosen Grande So many New York Dames were authors and Mary Dame number four. Frances Kennedy (“MFK”) Fisher was America’s most Female proprietors of six of the finest hotels in the highly respected food writer that Les Dames was permitted world attended an investiture dinner on April 15, 1981, at to honor her at the library—sans donation—on April 29, the newly opened Helmsley Palace Hotel, which incorpo- 1978, making her the third Grande Dame. MFK, her great rated a landmark building. Each received a certificate of friend Julia Child and I greeted members and guests in the recognition from Les Dames in the hotel’s magnificent pale mahogany paneled room at the reception on the third blue, oval ballroom and Helen McCully was introduced as floor. Dame GLORIA PEPIN and Jacques Pepin were in the fifth Grande Dame. Later when I met with Mrs. attendance. Supper amongst a grove of orange trees lent for Herlain of Vier Jahreszeiten in Hamburg, the certificate the occasion followed on the balcony overlooking the had been framed and hung on her office wall. She agreed to foyer. start a Les Dames chapter on the continent, if we selected We adjourned to the room where Celeste Holmes read the members. However the opportunity never came to from MFK’s books. Later MFK sat on a library table, girl- fruition. ishly swinging her legs back and forth, answering questions put forth by the library’s director of public relations. This On April 21, 1983, at an annual dinner at Le Perigord 23 Les Dames d’Escoffier International

Park, Ella Brennan was chosen Grande Dame. Grace Chu On the philanthropic side, Les Dames gave its most joy- was made the seventh Grande Dame, appropriately at a ous dinner at Gracie Mansion, the official residence of New Chinese restaurant. The last Grande Dame of the New York Mayors. Mayor David Dinkens sent out gold York Chapter was Nika Hazelton in 1989. After that time, engraved invitations to women in shelters preparing to ven- it became an international award. ture into the world again. Les Dames dis every aspect of the dinner from marketing and cooking to decorating, serving FUNDRAISING AND PHILANTHROPIC DEEDS and financing. A choir sang carols. The guests dressed in business best were thrilled, and one Dame reported that rel- Our first scholarship fundraiser was at Saks Fifth atives in Italy caught the event on TV. Avenue. Wine and hors d’oeuvres prepared by our mem- bers, and demonstrations by our noted cooking school Dames held a meeting where Rikers Island prison teachers, were held after hours to paying guests invited by inmates talked about their “in house” chef training pro- Les Dames and Saks. Anna Muffaletto, director of Cordon gram and served a sampling while armed guards stood by. Bleu Cooking School in New York, insisted on demon- Petite ANNE ROSENZWEIG was one of the Dames who vol- strating even though she had just been released from the unteered to teach on Rikers Island and later employed one hospital. Sadly, she died shortly afterwards. of her students. Our next fundraiser was “Women of Wine” at SALUTE TO WOMEN IN GASTRONOMY Bloomingdales. Strong in wine membership from the very start, five Dames renowned in the field of wine had tables One of our most successful projects over the years was and poured their wares. Bloomingdales provided both hors the week long “Salute to Women in Gastronomy” when d’oeuvres and the staff to pass them as well as sending invi- Dames received a citation from the city of New York tations to their customers. Our first scholarship winners signed by Mayor Rudolph Guiliani. The Salute, a series of were three young chefs who were to be apprentices on the four events per day, was undertaken by chapter president first cruise ship permitted to land in Cuba. The govern- Beverly Barbour, who had the vision, courage and stamina ment postponed the resumption of relations. They were to pull it off. We brought in Michele Escoffier, grandson, assigned to another ship where cuisines from four different and his father Pierre Escoffier attended every event from countries were prepared. Sara Moulten, who would become the daily Author’s Luncheons in the restaurant of one hotel editor of Gourmet Magazine, was one of the winners. Later (hosted by our authors with menu items from their books I asked Sara to start a Junior Les Dames. She agreed but Les prepared by the hotel’s kitchen) to afternoon tea in the Dames’ board said, “Nay.” Sara then founded the New lobby of another hotel. York Women’s Cuilinary Alliance which celebrates its 20th anniversary in 2002, inspiring many women starting There were cooking classes at Bloomingdale’s taught by out in the field. New York Dames were also instrumental our cooking school teachers and daily “Meet the Escoffiers” in founding another culinary group for women. Two of the dinners at restaurants owned by members or with member eight founders of Women Chefs and Restaurateurs (WCR) Chefs featuring members’ wines. Also, a day-long seminar are LIDIA BASTIANICH and ANNE ROSENZWEIG. for professionals was held at New York Technical College. An evening seminar at the uptown campus of New York University on “Career Opportunities in the Hospitality Industry” had a waiting list of more than a hundred inter- ested people. Gourmet magazine provided space for a display of beautiful, edible works of art created by women pastry chefs. A triple-header afternoon of television food pioneers was held at the French/America Center theatre with JULIA CHILD and Bert Wolfe leading the discussion.

The finale was a magnificent benefit dinner in the Rainbow Room chaired by ROZANNE GOLD and attended by Julia Child. All of these events were advertised and pro- moted with two full-page ads in The New York Times and direct mailings of a promotional brochure. New York sud- denly became very aware of the prominence of women in the food field and they paid us for showing our skills. The week netted more than $90,000.

These are some of the early events of the New York Chapter. There is more to come as well as the histories of all Les Dames Chapters in upcoming Quarterlies beginning with Washington, D.C. and Chicago. But none of us would Keoleian, Gottlieb Moulton. Caption: Left to right: Joyce be reading this now, but for the prescience and hard work Keoleian, Sandra Gottlieb and Sara Moulton. of the New York Chapter.

24 Les Dames d’Escoffier International

Members of Les Dames d’Escoffier when LDEI Founded N ew York Chapter Harriet M. Reilly Leslee Reis Marian Burros Catherine Alexandroc Maria Harrision Reuge Mary Ross Barbara Burtoff Jean Anderson Leslie Revsin Nancy Ross Ryan Janet Lai Cam Elizabeth Andoh Anne Rosenzweig Sharon Sanders Phyllis Richman Beverly Barbour Olga Rigsby Carole Segal Carol Cutler Patricia Soller Bartholomew Julee Rosso Margaret Sheridan Katherine Dinardo Jean Bayrock Julie Sahni Elaine Sherman Linda Donald Claire N. Bell Lorna J. Sass Katherine Smith Elizabeth Esterling Patricia J. Bell Elizabeth Schneider Sofia Solomon Marcia Fox Sarah Belk Dr. Vivian Schulte Camille Stagg Phyllis Frucht Rose Levy Beranbaum Sylvia Schur Marian Tripp Marge Guarasci Audrey Berman Melissa Drake Sere Jane Wallace Antoinette Hatfield Bonny Birnbaum Niki Singer Sheets Joanne Will Jo Hawkins Lis K. Brewer Saralie Slonsky Susan Hayes Carol Brock Aileen Claire Snoddy Dallas: Maisie Enid Krikliwy Patricia J. Brown Margaret L. Stern Betty Cook Rebecca Marshall Dorothy Buckner Gale Stevens Jennifer Cox Carol Mason Irena Chalmers Helen Studley Ann Greer Jane Mengenhauser Grace Zia Chu Barbara Tober Dotty Griffith Sidney Moore Beverly Cox Geri Trotta Babs Harrison Rose Narva Jane F. Butel de Calles Jeanne Appleton Voltz Lori Finkelman Holben Joan Nathan Ella Elvin Arlene Wanderman Gladys Howard Kay Shaw Nelson Barbara Ensrud Sallie Y. Williams Chris Jonsson Carole Palmer Ruth Epstein Helen Witty Paula Lambert Penelope Pate-Green Meryle Evans Linda Wolfe Kathleen McDaniel Deirdre Pierce Florence Fabricant Paula Wolfert Becky Murphy Bunny Polmer Barbara Gillam Mildred Ying Charlotte Parker Suzanne Reifers Rozanne Gold Zanne Early Zakroff Amber Robinson Germaine Sharretts Mary Ellen Griffin Gloria Zimmerman Candy Sagon Elizabeth Siber Zack Hanle Beth Sonnier Germaine Swanson Marilyn Sjogren Hansen Chicago: Dolores Snyder Goody Solomon Louisa Violet Hargrave Jane Armstrong Byrne Renie Steves Susan Thompson Jan T. Hazard Doris Banchet Diane Teitelbaum Angela Traettino Karen B. Heineman Nancy Barocci Betsy Warren-Smith Jean Hewitt Beverly Bennett Philadelphia: Virginia Washburne Libby Hillman Brigid Brennan Mary Bentley Anne Willan Rachel Hirshchfeld JeanMarie Brownson Jane Blumenfeld Barbara Witt Karen Hubert Carolyn Buster Dr. Claire Boasi Helen Worth Sue B. Huffman Dee Coutelle Dr. Carol Christensen Lisa Yockelson Annemarie Huste Debra Crestoni Cheryle Cotton Ann Yonkers Ruth A. Jacobson Priscilla Cretier Julie Dannenbaum Barbara Ann Katz Kristine N. Curry Mona Doyle Les Dames d’Escoffier Malvina Kinard Carol DeMasters Vespa Susanne Foo International Board: Jane Kirby Barbara Glunz Donovan Candis Fox Jeanne Voltz, Elayne Kleeman Barbara Dooley Carla Fusaro President Harriet Lembeck Myra Dorros Kiki Olsen Gomez Florencer L in Toria Emas Aliza Green Carol Haddix, Eileen Yin-Fei Lo Jackie Etcheber Maxine Keyser Vice President for Programs Frances Low Gene Schaefer Flynn Miriam Mandell Sheila Lukins Marlene Gaffke Jeanine Mermot Claire Boasi, Mary Lyons Sue Ling Gin Kathleen Mulhern Vice President for Expansion Georgia Lyras Nancy Goldberg Lois Pearson Laura Maioglio Elaine Gonzalez Rima Synnestvedt Dolores Snyder, Lydie Marshall Nyrna Greenspan Dr. Judy Wellington Secretary Patricia McCann Carol Haddix Judy Wicks Kempy Miles Nancy Kirby Harris Carol Mason, Anita I. Mizner Deborah S. Hartz Washington, D.C. Treasurer Marcia Mondavi Dorothy Holland Barbara Heedon Aledort Charlotte S. Morrell Barbara Kuck Patricia Altobello Investitute celebration chair: Ruth Morrison Alma Lach Ann Amernick Nancy B. Mott Lucille Lampman Helene Bennett Carol Haddix Sara Moulton Karen Levin Linda Berliner Investitute celebration Jacqueline M. Newman Lois Carol Levine Aline Berman Marsha J. Palanci Abby Mandel Ann Brody Carol Brock Gloria Augier Pepin Fiona McLeod Morrison Ellen Brown New York chair:

25 Les Dames d’Escoffier International

The great love for one’s own land, for enjoying the simple things in life and for sharing time. These are the values upon which every Italian family is based. And these same values have been passed on from generation to generation within the Bertolli family. They have combined innovation and tra- dition putting all of their love, experience and passion into their work. in 1870 Francesco Bertolli and his wife Caterina opened a small shop selling Bertolli’s famous olive oil under the family’s house, in Lucca, in the heart of Tuscany. The Bertolli Company further expanded at the end of the 1890s when Giuseppe, Gioele, Giulio, Daniele and Elia, Francesco’s and Caterina’s children, started visiting USA, Australia, Brazil, Argentina and Africa. In fact “The Italian emigrants in America began to write to Francesco Bertolli because they couldn’t find the kinds of food and wine they were used to.”

Italian olive oil’s history and production have roots that deepen in history, and Bertolli has always worked towards the preservation of these century-old values and traditions. This is the secret of Bertolli olive oil: the Italian passion for life that the world has grown to appreciate. www.bertol- li.com

GALLO OF SONOMA

The brother and sister team of winemaker Gina Gallo and winegrower Matt Gallo live and work in Sonoma, County, California, America’s most awarded wine growing region. The Gallo’s are dedicated to creating fine wines at Gallo of Sonoma. The Gallo’s have always embraced a hands-on approach in creating and mar- keting world class wines. www.gallo.com To help get through the day, choose beef for a convinient and nutritious mealtime option

26 Les Dames d’Escoffier International

WASHINGTON WINE COMMISSION CALIFORNIA The Washington Wine Commission was founded in DRIED PLUM 1987 as a unified marketing and trade association. BOARD In 1999, the Commission established the Washington Wine Quality Alliance (WWQA) to spearhead development of industry standards in California produces 99 percent of all the winemaking and labeling. Washington is the first dried plums grown in the U.S. and 70 per- state in the U.S. to define standards for cent of the world’s supply. The California “reserve” wines. Dried Plum Board represents the indus- try’s 1,250 growers and 21 packers. The trend started by a few home winemakers Located in Sacramento, California, the and visionary farmers board’s primary function is to promote has become a respect- ed and influential dried plums worldwide through advertis- industry that generates an estimated $700 million ing, public relations, sales promotion and in sales annually, with shipments of Washington education programs to encourage wine going to all 50 states and more than 40 coun- tries around the globe. Washington ranks second increased consumption of the fruit. The in the country for premium wine production and $10 million plus program is totally funded more than 29,000 acres are planted to vinifera by the growers and handlers through crop grapes, producing and expected 97,500 tons in 2001.www.washingtonwine.com assessments. www.prunes.org

ALASKA SEAFOOD MARKETING BOARD The mission statement of the Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute: “To increase the worldwide consumption of Alaska Seafood and promote the quality and superiority of Alaska seafood products.” The Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute (ASMI) is divided into three distinct marketing programs: export, foodservice and retail. All three programs are designed to enhance the appeal and popularity of Alaska Seafood. The WENTE VINEYARDS export program operates in the European Union, Australia, China, Japan and Taiwan, while the California’s first producer of varietal retail and foodservice programs focus their activities on the U.S. www.alaskaseafood.org Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, Wente Vineyards also excels in the production of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Late Harvest Riesling. The Wente Livermore Valley vine- SOUTHCORP (1/8 page ad) yards are particularly well suited to growing the Southcorp is Australia’s largest winemak- Bordeaux varieties: Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon er, exporter and grape producer and the and Cabernet Sauvignon. More than 50 consecu- world’s largest maker of premium red tive vintages of outstanding Chardonnay have wine. Key brands include Penfolds, been produced from these vineyards as well. The Lindemans and Seppelt. Export growth is Wente Arroyo Seco vineyards are located in a underpinned by extensive international cooler region which favors varieties such as Pinot Noir, Gewurztraminer and Riesling. www.wentevineyards.com

27 Next Issue SPRING 2002 QUARTERLY

WILL FEATURE DAMES ON CRITERIA FOR MEMBER MILESTONES: CRITERIA FOR CHAPTER PROGRAMS: RADIO, TV AND THE INTERNET 1. Dame’s name and Les Dames 1. Les Dames Chapter and name of Please send the following informa- Chapter. program. tion: 1. Dame’s name and Les Dames 2. Information must be of a business 2. Who, What, When, Where, Why Chapter. nature. and How in maximum 300 words.

2. Title and job description. 3. Maximum 50 words. No press 2. Photo (will be returned promptly) releases or company brochures. or graphic file at 200 dpi. 3. 150 words about job and personal views. Please e-mail to ??????Add photo (Bonnie Dave [email protected] by February 15. Moore.pdf) and caption 4. Photo (will be returned prompt- below:????????????? ly) or graphic file at 200 dpi. Press releases and company brochures not accepted.

DEADLINE For the SPRING newsletter is February 15

LDEI Headquarters, AEC Management Resources, Inc., Greg Jewell, President, P.O. Box 4961, Louisville, KY 40204, (502) 456-1851; Fax (502) 459-5846, [email protected] LDEI Newsletter compiled by Newsletter compiled by Katherine Newell Smith and CiCi Williamson, proofread by Jane Mengenhauser and Alexis Linton, Image-set and printed by Jim Linton, sent by Susan Horrocks.

Les Dames d'Escoffier International P.O. Box 2103, Reston, VA 20195-0103

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