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TM most practical multi-pitch solution v1.0 Wasatch Range The Wasatch Range truly offers incredible recreational possibilities in the heart of the Rocky Mountains of Utah. The Wasatch mountains rise to elevations of more than 11,000 feet and stretch for 200 miles from the Northern Utah border to Nephi, just south of Provo. From deep backcountry powder to mind-blowing mountain biking trails and exceptional rock and ice climbing, it is no surprise that outdoor enthusiasts from all over the US visit and move to Salt Lake City to take advantage of the climbing possibilities. The area surrounding Salt Lake City is hard to beat in terms of rock climbing, and a road trip to Salt Lake City should be on every climbers’ tick list. Located only a few minutes from the Salt Lake Valley, the Wasatch Moun- tains are home to some of the most spectacular and accessible climbing in the US. The diversity is what makes climbing in the Wasatch so special, since it is possible to access virtually all forms of climbing and a variety of rock types just a few minutes from downtown Salt Lake City. The pristine scenery of the Wasatch is equal to that found in the Tetons, the Sierras, or the Colorado Rockies. Climbing No matter what type of climbing you are looking to do, the Wasatch Range will offer some of the best routes in varied, wonderful and pristine settings. The canyons are what make these Utah mountains so special, and each canyon offers a very different climbing experience. Here is a brief description of the most popular climbing areas, and what they have to offer: Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC) is one of the best, and most accessible granite areas anywhere, and even contains some limestone crags too. The quality of the granite varies from fine grain to coarse to polished, and is generally excellent. LCC is a historical climbing area for granite multi-pitch climbs, featuring technical slabs, knobby faces and continuous cracks of all sizes. You’ll find everything here, from trad, sport, bouldering, and ice climbing. Most of the climbs are located on the sunnier north side of the canyon, but there are lots of shady routes on the other side of the canyon too. The area has a rich history, and many difficult routes were climbed in the 1960’s and 1970’s with limited protection. Big Cottonwood Canyon (BCC) offers hundreds of routes and dozens of crags can easily be accessed from either sides of the canyon, and it’s one of the most popular places to climb around Salt Lake. The rock in BCC is quartzite which can feel slippery and hard at first, but it also features numerous juggy incut holds. Expect steep face climbing with numerous cracks, slippery slabs, and fun overhangs. You might also find that protection is more difficult to place in quartzite than in granite. As a result, BCC has more sport routes, but the majority are still trad climbs. Many beginner routes and toproping areas can be found, and approaches range from a few minutes to 1 to 2 hours. Devils Castle stands high above Albion Basin at the top of Little Cottonwood Canyon, and lies in the heart of Alta ski area boundaries. The rock on this huge north facing formation is limestone, and the style of climbing is very different than what is found lower down the canyon. Routes are multi-pitch mixed gear (trad/sport) and are usually around six pitches long. This is alpine climbing at its best, and is the place to be on hot summer days. Bells Canyon is a large canyon located just south of LCC and it’s a spectacular climbing area containing large granite towers. This canyon has a remote feel to it, because there is no road at the bottom. The rock quality varies, usually deteriorating as you near the top of the buttresses. Most routes are multi-pitch trad climbs, For more information on classic Desert Tower climbs and other climbing areas visit www.GearLoopTopo.com For more information on classic Desert Tower climbs and other climbing areas visit www.GearLoopTopo.com and involve a fairly long, but very scenic approach. The main attraction here is Middle Bell Tower, which is the most beautiful of the group, with routes up to six pitches long. All routes face south, so it can get hot in the summer. Lone Peak Cirque features amazing high alpine granite climbing, and is one of the most beautiful areas to climb in the Wasatch. This is “the place” for alpine climbing and the views are unbeatable. Expect four to five hundred foot trad climbs on impeccable granite with cracks, off-widths, chimneys, and superb face climbing on amazing varnished rock. The Cirque sits high above a pristine alpine meadow, where melting snowfields provide the only source of fresh water. Routes range from 5.7 to 5.12, are all trad and on exceptional rock. However, the approach is fairly long and strenuous, and most parties will want to spend at least one night to camp once up there. American Fork Canyon is the place to go for pumpy sport climbing on steep, hard and pocketed limestone. AF features some of the hardest routes in Utah, with most high quality routes ranging from 5.11 to 5.14. Climbing gear Because the climbing in the Wasatch can be so diverse in terms of style and types of rock, you’ll need some variety in your rack. Some routes will be all trad, others will be all bolted, and some will be a mix of bolts and gear. The same applies for anchors, where some will have to be built on pro, others will be bolted, and some will consist of a tree or bush. Bring long slings to tie around trees and blocks and carry extra gear for building anchors. Climbers should carry a good assortment of nuts (1 set), cams (1 or 2 sets), quickdraws and slings. Micro nuts can be especially useful on some routes, as well as tcu’s and other micro cams. On most routes, you’ll need cams up to 3”, but the occasional wider crack will demand a bigger piece or two. Occasionally, an old bolt or piton will be encountered, and you should inspect them carefully before committing to them. Use good judge- ment and common sense when using sketchy protection. As far as ropes, a 70 m rope will help you move faster, climb longer pitches, and possibly past slower parties more easily, but a 60 m will work fine for most routes. If you plan to rappel and/or retreat, make sure to have two 60 m ropes with you, and some extra webbing. Many routes also require a walk-off, sometimes down steep and exposed gullies with some bushwacking possible, and some will choose to do the walk-off in their climbing shoes. However, it is a good idea to bring along a good pair of hiking shoes for the descents, especially if your climbing shoes are not the most comfortable. Classic Climbs 5.5: West Slabs 5.6: Schoolroom, Steort’s Ridge 5.7: The Open Book, Outside Corner, The Thumb, Tingey’s Terror 5.8: Eleventh Hour, Lowe Route, Pentapitch, Tingey’s Torture 5.9: Center Thumb, S-Direct 5.10: The Black Streak, Horns of Satan, Triple Overhang, Vertical Smile 5.11: Arm and Hammer, Stiffler’s Mom 5.12: S-Crack Alternative Climbing Areas If there’s bad weather along the Wasatch Range (or if it’s too cold or too hot), you’re in luck, because many options exist to keep you climbing. If it’s too cold to climb in Salt Lake, and you’re looking for warmer weather, drive south to Moab, Indian Creek, Saint-George, Zion or Las Vegas (Red Rocks). All are about 4-6 hours away. If it’s too hot in Salt Lake and you don’t want to head up to Lone Peak or Devil’s Castle, head up north to the Tetons or the Wind River Range, also about 4 to 5 hours away. For great sport climbing in the heat of the sum- mer, try Maple Canyon or the Uinta mountains. Both areas offer excellent and fun sport climbs in a cool, high mountain setting and are only 1.5 hours away. Another great climbing area worth checking out is City of Rocks, located just accross the border in Idaho, where you’ll find great camping, excellent rock and hundreds of single pitch sport and trad routes. For bouldering, you’ll want to go to Joe’s Valley, Ibex, or Triasssic. 2 For more information on classic Desert Tower climbs and other climbing areas visit www.GearLoopTopo.com Climbing Shops Many climbing stores can be found in and around the Salt Lake Valley. IME is the place to go if you want the best service, experience and selection. They’re located at 3265 East 3300 South in Salt Lake City, just behind the REI. They can be reached at 801-484-8073. The Black Diamond Store also has a huge selection of climbing gear and a helpful staff. 2084 East 3900 South, Salt Lake City, 801-278-0233. You can also find two REI stores in Salt Lake City. One is located at 3285 East 3300 South, Salt Lake City, 801- 486-210o, the other at 230 West 10600 South. Finally, check out Wasatch Touring located at 702 East 100 South, Salt Lake City, 801-359-9361, or Kirkham’s (3125 South State Street, 801-486-4161), which also have a limited selection of climbing gear.

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