JAPAN The Insiders' Guide

From Tokyo to Okinawa, experience like a local with our experts' top picks Contents

Contents Overview

Japan Overview 3 Osaka 29 Top 10 experiences in Japan 3 Must see & do 30 Japanese cuisine 6 Outdoor activities 32 Tokyo Cultural highlights 7 Nightlife 33 Etiquette and faux pas 9 One-day itinerary 34 Language and phrases 10 Getting around 35 Is Japan safe? 11 Getting around 13 Hiroshima 36 Visas and vaccinations 15 Must see & do 37 Nightlife 39 Tokyo 16 One-day itinerary 40

Must see & do 17 Getting around 41 Osaka Outdoor activities 18 Nightlife 19 Okinawa 42

One-day itinerary 20 Must see & do 43 Hiroshima Getting around 21 Outdoor activities 45 Nightlife 47 Kyoto 22 One-day itinerary 48 Must see & do 23 Getting around 48 Outdoor activities 25 Okinawa Nightlife 26 Our contributors 49 One-day itinerary 27 See our other guides 49 Getting around 28 Need Insurance quote? 50

2 Welcome! Japan is a treasure-trove of amazing and unique experiences. There’s breathtaking landscape, awe-inspiring temples, world-famous cuisine… there’s something for everyone and a new discovery every time you visit.

To get you started, here are ten of our favourite experiences you must do in Japan – as voted by our local insiders. Contents

Tokyo Kyoto Breathtaking Osaka Hiroshima landscape, Overview awe-inspiring temples, world-famous cuisine. Tokyo Kyoto

Okinawa Osaka

Explore the Bamboo

Forest of Arashiyama Hiroshima There’s plenty to do around Kyoto’s western suburb of Arashiyama, but none as famous (or as Instagram- friendly) as the Bamboo Forest. Stroll through its tall bamboos, visit Okinawa Nonomiya Shrine and try to catch sight of the cheeky locals – the Macaque monkeys.

3 Stay at a traditional Ryokan Though slightly pricier than other accommodation options, these uniquely Japanese inns offer a glimpse into Japan’s rich cultural heritage. Often accompanied with tatami beds and a traditional Japanese breakfast, many Ryokans will also have an in-house onsen for guests. Just make sure you brush up on your onsen etiquette.

Go Scuba diving in Okinawa Okinawa is known as Japan’s Hawaii, Contents with white sand beaches and clear blue waters teeming with life. If you’re a diver, you’ll be spoilt for choice here. One place on top of our dive list is Yonagui, Overview an ancient underwater rock formation shrouded in mystery. Some say it’s topped with your choice of ingredients. natural, truthers claim aliens. Either way, Popular toppings include green onion, it’s worth seeing for yourself. pork belly or octopus (its name does Ryokans Tokyo literally mean “your choice grill”) and it’s offer a Try Okonomiyaki all drizzled in a savoury-sweet sauce. glimpse fresh off the grill Itadakimasu! into Japan’s Originating from Osaka, this tasty (and rich cultural surprisingly filling) street food can be Visit Hiroshima Peace Park heritage. Kyoto found nationwide. This grilled, savoury History gets pretty real in the park’s pancake, is made of a thin layer of batter Peace Memorial Museum, with exhibits mixed with shredded cabbage and of burnt-out school uniforms of kids

who disappeared after the attack, and Osaka photos of hibakusha, people who were exposed to the bomb’s radiation. It’s a

difficult museum to see, but it carries an Hiroshima important message of hope for a more peaceful future.

Visit Kiyomizu-dera Temple during cherry blossom festival Okinawa Built on the site of Kyoto’s Otowa Waterfall, the “Temple of Pure Water” is best known for its distinctive wooden

4 experience from a market visit through to enjoying a home-cooked meal at your host’s home. You’ll want to bring Karaoke in Tokyo an extra Because, well… you’re in Japan. Find memory yourself a nomihodai, a Japanese all-you- card for the can-drink bar with karaoke, and channel camera. your inner diva.

Hike Mt Fuji During its climbing season (early July stage. Built in 780, it rises 13m above to mid-September), this iconic, 3,776m Contents the hillside below and is built entirely volcano, attracts up to 10,000 people per without nails. Though its impressive day. The hike takes about 4-8h to reach architecture draws crowds all year the top and half that time to come back round, we recommend going during the down. The views here are legendary for Overview cherry blossom season, or late autumn, a reason. If you want to escape the busy when it bursts with stunning colour. hiking trials and just enjoy the sights of You’ll want to bring an extra memory Mt. Fuji, you could also opt to hike Mt. card for the camera. Ashitaka, Mt. Kuro or Mt. Ryuu-ga- Tokyo take, to experience it in all its beauty. Cycle around Ohara The village of Ohara is just 20km north of Kyoto and is best explored by bicycle. It’s a relatively easy route that should take Kyoto around 2h, with some uphill climbs, but you’ll be rewarded with picturesque rural views. Once here, explore the temple complex at Sanzenin, browse the quaint Osaka shops selling local crafts and don’t miss the scenic Otonoashi Waterfall. There are

also a few hot spring inns here if you want Hiroshima to stay the night.

Learn to make Japanese cuisine The best way to learn to cook authentic Japanese food is to spend some time Okinawa with a home cook. Sites like Nagomi Visit and Traveling Spoon can connect you with a local host and get the full

5 Japanese Cuisine Japanese food is rightfully famous, and washoku – or Japanese cuisine – was even named a UNESCO intangible cultural heritage item in 2014. Rich in flavours and nutrients, traditional Japanese cuisine is based around super-fresh, seasonal produce. Contents

Main dishes Most travellers would have tried sushi, but, oh, that’s just the beginning. If Overview you love seafood, sashimi – raw, thinly sliced seafood and other meats – is a Japanese street food must, especially in seaside destinations Don’t even get us started with the like Hiroshima and Fukuoka. Most street food. Yakitori, chargrilled Tokyo If cooked and warm foods are more travellers skewers of meat, perfect with an your thing, ramen, udon, and soba are would ice-cold Asahi Beer, are served in the three main wheat-based noodle have tried izakayas and street stalls everywhere. dishes found across Japan. All three can sushi, but, Okonomiyaki and Takoyaki – savoury be served in a bowl of hot noodle soup, oh, that’s pancakes and flavoured batter balls Kyoto but soba can also be served cold. These just the with octopus, respectively – are also all go great with a fresh plate of lightly- beginning. local favourites. fried Tempura. These batter-coated seafood or fresh vegetables are served Desserts and sweets Osaka with a soy-flavoured dipping sauce, or Sweet treats are a big part of Japanese floated in a bowl of noodles. food culture. Taiyaki, a fish-shaped Speaking of warming broths, don’t waffle with a variety of sweet fillings Hiroshima miss shabu-shabu, a decadent dish such as red beans, custard, and chocolate where platters of marbled meats, are a traditional favourite. It's often vegetables and noodles are cooked sold at festivals alongside Daifuku, a in a bubbling broth at the table. It’s chewy rice cake filled with red bean perfect for the winter months. As are paste. Finally, you can’t miss matcha, or Okinawa Tonkatsu, breaded and deep-fried pork green tea, one of Japan’s most famous cutlets, laid over a bed of rice and can be products, which are available in a variety drizzled in Japanese curry. of sweets, snacks and confectionaries.

6 Cultural Highlights With a history dating back to the 7th century BCE, Japan has a rich and multi-faceted cultural heritage. Despite the country’s famous love of modernity, it has still managed to keep many of its traditions alive. Travellers can explore millennia-old shrines and Contents temples, only a stone’s throw away from the city’s dizzying skyscrapers. Overview

Shintoism and Buddhism in Japan and one of the country’s oldest forms Though often regarded as a private, of entertainment. Generally consisting family affair, Shintoism and Buddhism of all male actors, Kabuki is a highly- People turn Tokyo teachings permeate Japanese social polished performance, distinctive due to religious and cultural values. That’s why you’ll to their extravagant make up, elaborate rituals only see shrines and Buddhist backdrops, and unique Japanese during key temples happily coinciding next to each musical instruments. moments of other. You’ll also notice its influences in Noh, on the other hand, is less celebration. Kyoto architecture, art and design throughout radical, with less extravagant make up, Japan’s history. scene changes, and backdrops. Due Despite its influences, religion is to its Shinto origins and its historic rarely discussed in everyday life. Most performance in shrines, it’s much more Osaka people turn to religious rituals only serene, simplistic, and really quite a during key moments of celebration, spiritual experience, centered around such as birth, marriage, and death. masks and rhythm. Hiroshima Another, more joyous celebration of religion are the many colourful matsuri, Sumo match or festivals, that take place around the This experience is only around during country and throughout the year. three major tournaments of the year, in January, May & September. Tokyo’s Okinawa Kabuki and Noh theatre Ryogoku Kokugikan is the major venue. Originating in the 15th Century, Kabuki Make sure you get your tickets early, theatre is a truly avant-garde art form though, as they sell out quick!

7 Onsen and hot springs Onsen have long been used as Contrary to communal bath houses, and as Hollywood venues for healing and recreation. belief, Today, the widespread availability Geishas of personal bath-tubs and showers, were never coupled with the hectic lifestyles of courtesans. modern Japanese, have contributed to the decline of onsen as daily cleaning facilities. However, they are still famed and widely used for their healing capabilities, which If your trip doesn’t line up with one of vary depending on the type and Contents these tournaments, you can always composition of the onsen. attend a morning training session Onsens are all over Japan, but If instead. Just be on your best behaviour, you’re looking for something a little as the requirements to watch are quite more special, it’s best to get out of Overview strict with audiences. the main cities. Traditional onsen locations such as Hakone outside Geisha and maiko Tokyo and Beppu in the more Contrary to Hollywood belief, Geishas southerly Oita Prefecture are Tokyo were never courtesans. Instead, working always great choices. alongside the oldest profession, Geishas sought to provide entertainment through the art of conversation, charm, music, dance and poetry. Kyoto And while we’re debunking myths, the popular image of an elegant figure with white make-up, red lips, elaborate hairstyles and ornate kimonos is actually Osaka more typical of a maiko – a trainee geisha. Fully-qualified geishas (or geiko) are likely more subdued, relying on their Hiroshima skills and charm, rather than appearance, to entertain. If you want to catch a glimpse of these elegant creatures, you’re most likely to find them in Kyoto’s high-end Okinawa dinners, private parties and special events to add a special touch to the proceedings.

8 noise to a minimum. Loud behaviour is Etiquette usually frowned upon because it invades others’ space. Avoid talking on the and Faux Pas phone (put it on silent mode) and send Respecting unwritten social messages instead. There are also designated seats rules is rooted in Japanese for the elderly, injured, pregnant culture, but it can be tricky for women, and those with young children travellers to pick up. Here are – don’t be rude and sit in them if there’s a few quick tips to help you someone who obviously fit one of Remember to avoid the label of a gaijin, a these categories. that rules bumbling foreigner or outsider. are in place Behaving on the streets to keep you Don’t wear shoes indoors You might be in a rush, but don’t eat on safe. Are Contents This is the most common mistake. There’s the go. Sitting while eating shows one you really in a reason the entrance of each house has appreciates their food. that much a spot for your shoes. Some restaurants Smoking on the street is illegal too. of a hurry might ask you to do the same too, so Instead, head towards a clearly marked anyway? Overview make sure your socks have no holes. “Smoking area” to light up. Toilets are generally regarded as People generally follow rules when “unclean” areas, so many homes and even crossing the road, but occasionally, some public toilets have slippers lined up people do cross on red signals – Tokyo at their entrances. Just make sure you especially in the city. Remember use these when you’re inside the toilet that rules are in place to keep you area only! safe. Are you really in that much of a hurry anyway? Blowing your nose is… rude? Kyoto Believe it or not, sniffling is preferred Chopsticks and rules over blowing your nose in public. If you at the dinner table have to blow your nose, find a private If there’s one thing you take away, spot like the toilet. The idea of blowing remember to never use your own Osaka your nose is repulsive to some. It goes chopsticks to grab food from a without saying, hold onto your tissues communal dish, unless you have the

until you find a bin. “OK” from everyone on the table. One Hiroshima workaround is to use the non-pointed Train etiquette ends to tuck in, or to serve others. Never barge your way onto the train. Speaking of which, it’s polite to serve Platforms have markings that show others before serving yourself. Passing where to form orderly queues while you food from one pair of chopsticks to Okinawa wait and always let others disembark another or sticking them upright inside before you get on. bowls are BIG no-nos – this is reserved Once you’re on board, try to keep for funeral rites.

9 Language and Phrases Japan’s language barrier is a common misconception. As all Japanese students study English for a minimum of six years in secondary school, most Japanese locals will speak at least a little English. Sometimes, you might find that people are hesitant to Contents try their English on you, but you’ll likely find that you can communicate in basic English in a huge variety of situations Overview while traveling around Japan.

With that out of the way, it’s still Useful Japanese Phrases useful (not to mention polite), to learn Tokyo a few Japanese phrases. You’ll find Hello: konnichiwa that people are more likely to open Thank You: up to you and, especially the older Arigatou gozaimasu or simply, (informal) arigatou generation, more likely to share their Excuse Me/I’m Sorry: Sumimasen fascinating stories with you. Kyoto Please: Onegai shimas For more useful travel phrases and an audio guide to pronunciation, don’t My Name is “X”: Watashi wa “X” forget to check out our World Nomads I would like “X”, please: “X” o kudasai Guide app, Osaka Where is the “X”: available for iOS and Android. “X” wa doko desu ka? or, (informal) doko deska? Do you have a room?: Oheya aitemas ka? Hiroshima How Much?: Ikula?

Japanese locals will Please say that more slowly: Yukkuli hanashite kudasai speak at least a little English. Sometimes, you Those drugs aren’t mine!: Okinawa might find that people Sono dolaggu watashino dewa alimasen are hesitant to try their Goodbye: Sayoonara English on you.

10 Is Japan Safe? Japan is generally safe for tourists. People on the street and on public transport will look at you with a sense of curiosity, and are some of the friendliest, warmest people you could meet. In saying this, there are some things you should know about general Contents safety before your Japanese adventure begins.

Yakuza (gokudō) Overview and crime in Japan Despite popular belief, Japan is not financial sector. While they have a immune from organised crime – the large presence in Japan, it should be Japanese call their version of this noted that they are unlikely to harm or Tokyo organisation the yakuza. Known for their target tourists. discipline and their widespread presence, In saying this, you should still exercise they are not to be underestimated. the usual amount of caution that you The yakuza are responsible for many would in your home country. different criminal syndicates in Japan, Kyoto ranging from petty gambling and Drink-spiking in Japan prostitution circles, to having power in While Japan has a busy and exciting night the Japanese media, politics, and in the scene, particularly in cities like Tokyo

and Kyoto, there has been an increase in Osaka reported incidents of drink-spiking over the past few years. While the

These occurrences, in some instances, Hiroshima yakuza have led to theft and even physical have a large and sexual assault of the victim. While presence in this is usually rare, you should exercise Japan, they particular caution – don’t accept drinks are unlikely from strangers, and don’t leave drinks Okinawa to harm unattended. or target Solo female travellers should be tourists. especially careful, as they can be a perfect

11 target for these attacks. In saying this, practicing a bit of common sense and being aware of drink-spiking dangers will If you’re go a long way. out in the open, Earthquake safety crouch Each year, there are around 1,500 down on earthquakes in Japan, so the locals are the ground used to a few trembles. That doesn’t and cover mean you shouldn’t stay alert. your head. A big part of staying safe is to have easy access to accurate information. A few extra seconds of warning can give until the earthquake stops. Contents you all the time you need to prepare Falling debris from rooftops after an for an earthquake. Stay connected earthquake is a common cause of injury, and download a free Earthquake Early so don’t go outside. If you’re out in the Warning app. open, crouch down on the ground and Overview If you do find yourself in an cover your head. earthquake, take shelter under a sturdy piece of furniture or under a doorway. If LGBT travellers in Japan there is nowhere to hide, cover your head Japanese society places more emphasis Tokyo with something like a pillow. Don’t move on group identity and values than personal expression. Sexuality — homo or hetero — is considered a private matter; It’s not flaunted with public displays of affection, or discussed. Kyoto Because of this, much of local gay life is not just hidden — it’s inaccessible. This is even more so for lesbians in Japan,

who remain invisible. Osaka That said, homosexuality is legal in Japan and Japanese travel providers are also starting to recognise the gay Hiroshima travel market. If you know where to look, LGBTQI+ safe bars and spaces are aplenty, especially in Tokyo. So do a little homework before you go, or join a Okinawa locally-guided bar crawl and meet some friendly locals to discover more about gay Japan.

12 Getting Around Travelling around Japan is exciting, mysterious and awe-inspiring, but it doesn’t have to be difficult or unsafe. From mastering Japan’s biggest cities, to shooting through mountain ranges on the shinkansen bullet train, or sleeping Contents toe-to-toe with Japanese families on a ferry, there are a myriad of options to get around. Overview

Inner-city trains/metro Taxis In Japanese cities, the rail and metro These are everywhere in Japan, and systems are often the easiest ways to their distinctive look makes them easy Typically, Tokyo travel. You can usually buy multiple- to pick outside train stations and on trains, day passes, making it even more the streets. However, they are by far metro convenient. Rail staff operate at all the most expensive mode of transport and trams ticket gates and are generally very in Japan, so think twice before are more helpful to foreign tourists. ordering a taxi from Tokyo’s Shinjuku convenient Kyoto station to Narita airport, for example, and clearly Trams a journey which will set you back an signposted. Several major cities including eye-watering USD$240.

Hiroshima, Kumamoto and Nagasaki Osaka have tram systems, which are a great Shinkansen way to get around. These cities often One of the best ways to travel if you

offer 1-3 day passes which allow you want to get to your destination with Hiroshima unlimited travel on the tram system. minimum hassle is Japan’s shinkansen, or bullet train. Hurtling through Buses mountains and around coastlines at up Buses are available in major cities, but to 320kph (200mph), the shinkansen they aren’t very easy to use for non- brings even the furthest parts of japan Okinawa Japanese speakers. Typically, trains, within an easy few hours’ journey. metro, and trams are more convenient A convenient way to travel cross- and clearly signposted. country in Japan is use the Japan Rail

13 way to travel around Japan is with a ticket called the Seishun 18 Kippu. This ticket is unbelievably good value for money compared to other modes of transport, giving you 5 non- consecutive days of unlimited rail travel, excluding shinkansen trains. It is only available at certain times of year though, so make sure to check the website to help plan your trip.

Ferry Japan consists of thousands of Contents islands, and you can catch ferries from many of the larger cities such as Tokyo and Osaka. Many ferries even have uniquely Japanese features Overview like public bath houses. Overnight Pass, which is available to those on ferries involve sleeping in a room full tourist visas and gives you unlimited of Japanese families, which is a great rail access to all but the fastest way to see a slice of Japanese life, Tokyo shinkansen for 7-21 days. It can only but bring ear plugs in case you end up be bought before arriving in Japan. next to granddad. Be advised though — without the JR pass, shinkansen tickets are pricey. If speed is your priority and you don’t Kyoto have a rail pass, domestic flights will almost certainly be cheaper.

Night buses Osaka These are a very low-cost option, and leave stations of metropolitan areas

in the evening, arriving first thing in Hiroshima the morning. Taking a bus through the mountains of Japan can be a great experience — not recommended for light sleepers though! Okinawa

Express trains For those with more time on their hands, by far the most economical

14 Visas and Vaccinations In the excitement of finding cheap flights and planning trips to temples and sumo matches, it's easy to forget mundane things such as checking your visa requirements or getting your shots. Here’s what you need to know. Contents

Visas for short visits Travellers from Australia, New Zealand, the UK, US, and some European countries are covered by the Reciprocal Overview Visa Exemption Arrangements with Japan. Holders of these passports may types of visas issued by Japan, enter as a “Temporary Visitors”. and visas it’s impossible to list all of these are not required for a timeframe shorter requirements here. There are Tokyo than 90 days. To see if your country is Be aware, however, that Japanese no vaccines covered, check the Japanese Ministry of working visas are only issued to required to Foreign Affairs website. applicants with a high level of visit Japan. knowledge in skilled professions. For However, Visas for longer visits specific details, get in touch with your it’s always a Kyoto As of the 23rd June 2015, travellers can closest Japanese embassy. good idea to stay for up to 12 months in Japan for take some tourism and recreational purposes under Vaccinations basic health Japan's Longer Stays program. There are no vaccines required to visit precautions. Osaka The basics are that you need to be Japan. However, it’s always a good idea over 18, have no accompanying children, to take some basic health precautions

have private medical travel insurance, before traveling. Hiroshima and a certain amount of savings to The US Centre for Disease Control sustain your trip. Check with your local (CDC) recommends that travellers Japanese embassy for more specifics. should be up to date on routine vaccines before your trip. These include Working visas measles-mumps-rubella (MMR) vaccine, Okinawa If you plan on working in Japan, diphtheria-tetanus-pertussis vaccine, this requires a different type of visa varicella (chickenpox) vaccine, polio altogether. As there are 27 different vaccine, and your yearly flu shot.

15 Contents Overview Tokyo Kyoto

TOKYO Osaka s well as being Japan’s capital and the world’s most densely-populated city, ATokyo is famous for combining the Hiroshima charms of tradition and the buzz of the modern world. Explore millennia-old Shinto shrines and village-like lanes, then hop on the metro and

arrive at the flashing neon lights of dizzying Okinawa skyscrapers, filled with world-class shopping and Michelin-starred restaurants. Get ready to be swept up by this buzzing metropolis.

16 TOKYO Must See Although and Do the palace itself North-East Tokyo remains Visit Sensoji, Tokyo’s oldest temple. closed for On the way there, stop off at the food most of stalls to grab a treat and buy some the year, it handmade maneki neko (good luck opens its charms). gates to North-East Tokyo is famous for its the public sumo schools, which regularly hold

during the Contents sumo-wrestling tournaments. If you’re all, it’s the hotspot for J-Pop, and Emperor’s visiting during the off-season, you might fashion, and also the home of Meiji still be able to catch one of the practice Jingu, Tokyo’s most important shrine. New Year’s matches. Shinjuku, to the north of Harajuku, is speech. The Edo Tokyo Museum, which the more affordable rival of Ginza. It’s Overview exhibits life in Tokyo both past and a favourite shopping district for locals. present, is another must-see in the area. Here, you’ll will find the narrow alley, known as Golden Gai, which is famous Central Tokyo for its small restaurants and pubs with Tokyo In the heart of Tokyo lies the Imperial excellent food. For an unforgettable Palace, surrounded by the high-rises of night out, Roppongi is packed with Tokyo’s business districts. Although the clubs – and people – or Ni-Chome, palace itself remains closed for most Tokyo’s queer-friendly district, are of the year, it opens its gates to the definitely the places to go. Kyoto public during the Emperor’s New Year’s speech, and in autumn to view the Southern Tokyo season’s changing colours. For anime and robot enthusiasts, the

Don’t miss Ginza, a bustling Odaiba district, with its full-scale Osaka commercial district with many brand Gundam statue, is a must-visit. Make stores and, more importantly, the sure you take a seflie in front of the . Kabuki, a classical, Kabuki-za theatre mechanical giant! Hiroshima stylised form of drama, is only The fresh seafood of Tsukiji Fish performed in select theatres, and is Market has been the dream destination especially cherished in cities outside of chefs and foodies alike. Local Kyoto. restaurants often go at the break of dawn to get the freshest seafood for Okinawa West Tokyo their customers. Be sure to find a sushi In western Tokyo, Harajuku draws shop around here for some of the thousands of visitors every day. After freshest sashimi in town.

17 TOKYO Outdoor It’s a treat Activities to just get lost and Shinjuku Gyoen explore the This lush, 144-acre park and garden alleys and sits smack in the middle of the city, backstreets. offering locals a respite from the surrounding skyscrapers. Known for its beauty during cherry blossom season, the park is a splendid and convenient place for a picnic or stroll. Hiking Mt. Mitake Contents Tokyo by bike and Mt. Takao There are some set cycling courses At the western of edge of Tokyo, still in places like Yoyogi Park or the within the city limits in the Tama region, Imperial Palace, but it’s also a treat are Mt. Mitake and Mt. Takao, two Overview to just get lost and explore the popular spots for people who want to alleys and backstreets of random get in some more serious hiking. neighbourhoods. Both can be reached by train from You’re sure to turn up some gems central Tokyo in about an hour or so. Tokyo like small temples, neighbourhood From here you can hike or take a cable bars, and old shopping streets. car up the mountain. You’ll find more There are many places to rent a walking trails, ancient shrines and bicycle. Just beware not to ride by temples, beautiful flora and fauna, and yourself after dark. stunning views of both Tokyo city and Kyoto distant Mt. Fuji. Urban hot springs at Ooedo Onsen Monogatari Diving Ogasawara

Even in Tokyo, you can experience The Ogasawara Islands lay a Osaka Japanese-style communal bathing in thousand miles south of Tokyo, yet places like Ooedo Onsen Monogatari, it’s still considered part of the Tokyo

a large hot spring spa complex Metropolitan Area. Hiroshima decorated to look like the Edo-era These far-flung islands offer capital. excellent diving and snorkelling among Don a cotton yukata, dip your the tropical fish and coral reefs that toes in the steaming footbaths, ring the islands. or take it all off for a relaxing soak There are more than 30 islands to Okinawa in the open-air pools. Note that, as in choose from, which can be reached by most hot springs in Japan, tattoos are ferry to the main island of Chichijima, not permitted. or “Father Island.”

18 TOKYO Nightlife

Izakayas Izakayas can be found in every suburb, and are great venues to connect with locals. Try Zakoya in Shimokitazawa for a cosy, traditional interior, delicious food and great sake selection.

Late-night cafes In the grungy Tokyo suburb of Shimokitazawa, you’ll find a number of small bohemian bars, vintage shops, venues offer nomihodai. For those who Contents cafes and restaurants, open late along believe there is nothing better than the pedestrian-only streets. The narrow combination of unlimited alcohol, cheesy Just a few blocks from the izakaya alleyways video clips, and horrible singing – this Zakoya is Café Propaganda. Open until are lined place is for you. Overview sunrise on weekends, this laid-back with If karaoke isn’t your thing, try Bar Mist lounge offers large shisha pipes, giant lanterns, in Roppongi, which features three hours antique couches, delicious food and bar stools of all-you-can-drink for only ¥1,000. unique cocktails at any hour. and grills Tokyo offering Pecha Kucha Yakitori and street food authentic For those of you who don’t know, Pecha One of Japan’s most deliciously famous local Kucha is a series of 20-slide image street food is yakitori (grilled chicken cuisine. presentations, with each slide only skewers). A fantastic area to get a feel appearing for 20 seconds. This monthly Kyoto for this style of eating is Shinjuku’s hub of creatives, designers, thinkers and Omoide Yokocho. The narrow alleyways basically anyone with something to say, are lined with lanterns, bar stools and has become a must-see at Roppongi’s grills offering authentic local cuisine, and self-proclaimed gallery/lounge/bar/club/ Osaka yakitori as the main event. creative kitchen SuperDeluxe. A couple of blocks away is the

boozier version of Omoide Yokocho, in Bizarre themed restaurants Hiroshima the famous Golden Gai. Golden Gai’s and shows watering holes are found in small alleys, Two must-visit entertainment often only seating 8 or so people. restaurants for the ultimate bizarre Tokyo experience are Harajuku’s Nomihodais and karaoke Kawaii Monster Café, and Shinjuku’s Okinawa One way to drink on the cheap in Robot Restaurant. Both feature crazy Tokyo is nomihodai, Japanese for ‘all entertainment, music, shows, food, you can drink’. Most late-night karaoke and drinks.

19 TOKYO One-Day Itinerary

Street food, lucky charms and Sensoji Temple First stop, Asakusa! The district is Tokyo’s oldest remaining entertainment area with an Edo-period charm. At the heart of the district lies Sensoji Temple, Tokyo’s oldest temple, devoted to the goddess Kannon. Nakamise street leading up to Sensoji is lined with Contents countless small shops, selling a variety of small items and street food. These make for great souvenirs. Overview

Experience Edo culture at Ueno Park on the JR Yamanote Line brings us By taking the Ginza Line from Asakusa to Tokyo Station, tucked in between to Ueno Station, we arrive at Ueno Marunouchi and Ginza. The building Harajuku Tokyo Park. One of Tokyo’s most popular itself is one of the city’s most important is known parks to view cherry blossoms in spring, symbols, as well as a historic reminder throughout it’s also home to a number of temples of Japan’s modernisation at the brink of the world as and shrines. the 20th century. the centre The most famous spot here is the While Marunouchi is a business of teenage Kyoto Tokyo National Museum, which features district, Ginza is commercial, known for J-Pop and national treasures and cultural heritage its brand stores and Kabuki-za, where extravagant items. If you're interested in museums, you can enjoy a kabuki performance. fashion. Edo Tokyo Museum only takes Osaka 25min on the Oedo Line from Ueno- Stroll through the Imperial okachimachi to Ryogoku Station. Palace Gardens is also located Ryogoku Kokugikan The wide road in front of Tokyo station Hiroshima near the station, and if you happen connects it with the Imperial Palace. to be in Tokyo at the right time, you While you cannot visit the palace itself, could even catch the sumo-wrestling its East Gardens are open to the public tournament when it’s held in the city. and well worth a tour. Okinawa

Explore Ginza, the beating Cosplay in Harajuku heart of Tokyo The Chiyoda Line gets us from Heading to central Tokyo from Ueno Otemachi Station on the northern side

20 TOKYO of the East Gardens to Meiji-jingu Mae, the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Getting near the popular Harajuku district. Building. The observatories on the top Harajuku is known throughout the floor of each tower offers a stunning around world as the centre of teenage J-Pop view over Tokyo’s skyline and, on a clear Rail and and extravagant fashion. Takeshita afternoon, you might even spot Mt Fuji metro The most Street, in particular, is lined with many in the distance. convenient way small shops, cafes, and boutiques. to get around. Sample Tokyo’s world-famous Get a multiple Pray for good fortune cuisine in Shinjuku day pass to save money, and at Meji Jingu Shrine Cap off your day by walking east download an Another not-to-be-missed sight in towards Shinjuku for an evening of offline, English Harajuku is Meiji Jingu Shrine, Tokyo’s shopping – we recommend checking version of the

metro map Contents most important shrine. Meiji Jingu is out all the latest tech gadgets! to help you dedicated to Emperor Meiji’s soul and Before you leave Tokyo, don’t miss navigate your that of his wife. out on the city’s world-famous dining journey. Take a stroll through the forests of scene with a delicious dinner in a small Yoyogi Park surrounding the shrine and restaurant or pub in Golden Gai. Buses Overview Buses are available throughout Tokyo, but are not easy to

use for non- Tokyo Japanese speakers.

Taxis

The most Kyoto expensive mode of transport. Think twice before ordering

a taxi from Osaka Shinjuku station to Narita airport, which will cost USD$240. Hiroshima

Ferries Used to get to the man-made islands of Tokyo

Bay, or travelling Okinawa between destinations near water.

21 Contents Overview Tokyo Kyoto

KYOTO Osaka ocated at the central part of Honshuu island, Kyoto was the former capital of Japan for over a thousand Lyears. Today, it still retains much of its old-world Hiroshima charm. Over the centuries, the city was destroyed by many wars and fires, but countless temples, shrines, zen gardens and other historic landmarks still remain. It’s also

home to many of Japan’s most important matsuris and Okinawa serves as the training ground of Geishas, an integral part of the city’s thriving nightlife. With so much to see, do, and eat, you won’t want to rush your stay here.

22 KYOTO Must See and Do

Sanjusangendo Laying slightly off-the-beaten-path, Sanjusangendo is located east of Kyoto Station. Founded in 1164, this temple is famous for its 1001 statues of the goddess of mercy, Kannon, in the 120m wooden hall. The name literally translates to “33 intervals”, the traditional method of measuring Contents the size of a building and definitely an impressive sight to behold.

Kyoto International Overview Manga Museum More of a library, the manga museum architecture is one-of-a-kind. In features a collection of over 300,000 autumn, the grounds are especially manga that you can read at your rewarding as the surrounding forests Located on Tokyo leisure. Don’t worry if you can’t read change colours, transforming the the western Japanese – about 1,000 of these are scenery. outskirt in English. of Kyoto, Arashiyama Arashiyama Ryoanji Located on the western outskirt of is a popular Kyoto Famous for its gravel-and-rock Zen Kyoto, this is a popular destination destination garden, Ryoanji is generally regarded to enjoy nature and the soothing air to enjoy as the finest expression of Zen. As flowing over the river. Its famous nature you’re seated on the deck of the head bamboo grove lets you wander in a and the Osaka priest's former residence, you won’t be mystical forest, through which you soothing air able to see all 15 stones in the garden. won’t even see the sky. flowing over

There’s a lesson there somewhere! the river. Hiroshima Nijo Castle Nanzenji Only a few hundred meters away from Nanzenji is the head temple of one Kyoto's Imperial Palace, Nijo Castle of the schools within the Rinzai was built as a symbol of power for sector of Japanese Zen Buddhism, the shogunate – feudal Japan’s last Okinawa and includes an impressive network military government. With floors that of interconnected sub-temples. Its squeak when you step on them (called spacious grounds and ancient wooden “nightingale” floors), and hidden

23 KYOTO

known for its wooden stage, built in 780 and made entirely without nails. We We definitely recommend checking definitely out it’s stunning views over Kyoto recommend during Cherry Blossom Festival or late checking autumn, as it’s the perfect spot to take out in (and photograph) the hundreds of Kiyomizu- cherry and maple trees in the valley dera's below. stunning views over Fushimi Inari Taisha Kyoto Voted as Kyoto’s #1 attraction, Fushimi

during Contents guards stationed throughout, the Inari Taisha’s visitors make their Cherry castle was designed to impress anyone way through its vermilion gates who would come for an audience. towards the sacred Mt. Inari, which Blossom is dedicated to the Shinto god of rice. Festival. Ginkakuji Foxes are said to be Inari’s messengers, Overview Known as “The Temple of the Silver which explains the many fox statues Pavilion”, Ginkakuji was so named watching over visitors throughout the because the moonlight reflecting on grounds. the building’s dark exterior was said to Its tranquillity, charm, and above Tokyo give it a silvery appearance. Take in the all, beauty, make it hard for anyone to serenity of the moss garden and enjoy deny its sheer attractiveness. the zen of the grounds as you walk along its famous circular route. Kyoto

Kinkakuji The pavilion used to be part of a vast retirement residence for shogun

Yoshimitsu, but it was converted Osaka to a Zen temple after his death. The pavilion’s top two floors are

completely covered in gold leaf and Hiroshima perched on the edge of a large pond. It’s a sight to behold.

Kiyomizu-dera The “Temple of Pure Water” is a Okinawa popular sight throughout the year, as visitors are drawn in by its impressive architecture. Kiromizu-dera is best

24 KYOTO Outdoor A regular Activities bicycle can be rented Arashiyama for as little There are numerous walking and hiking as ¥500 paths around Arashiyama, which are per day. liberally sprinkled with temples and traditional gardens, such as Tenryuji, Gioji, and Katsura Rikyu. Make sure you visit the monkey park and mingle (and take selfies) with free-roaming Japanese macaques. part of the way. There are also natural Contents hot springs in the area that allow day Maruyama Park access or overnight stays. Head over to Maruyama for a stroll through the classical garden, with paths Higashiyama by bicycle Overview that wind around ponds reflecting Higashiyama is a district with plenty the greenery. In the spring, this is an to see, and is especially pleasant by extremely popular spot to do hanami, or bicycle. Highlights in the area include cherry blossom viewing. the famous temples Kiyomizudera and Tokyo Kodaiji, and . The narrow Philosopher’s Walk streets between them are stuffed with The narrow stone path from Ginkakuji to traditional shops and buildings. Eikando is called Tetsugaku no michi, A regular bicycle can be rented for as or Philosopher’s Walk. little as ¥500 per day, and if you want Kyoto The pedestrian path runs under a an electric bike (to help you with some procession of cherry trees, along a canal. of the hills in this district), those go for In addition to the major temples, the around ¥2,000. path is lined with smaller shrines and Osaka temples, a few small cafes, and shops Sanzenin and Ohara offering both traditional and modern art. by bicycle

For a more ambitious cycling trip, head Hiroshima Kuramadera and Mt. Kurama up to the village of Ohara. The ride is Kurama Temple sits in the foothills of about 20km with some uphill climbs, and Mt. Kurama in northern Kyoto. The area should take a couple of hours. is said to be home to many spirits, such Once there, explore the temple as the mythological tengu (long-nosed complex of Sanzein, and the pretty Okinawa goblins), and the healing art of reiki is Otonoashi Waterfall. There are hot said to have been born here. spring inns in the area too if you wish to It’s possible to hike up or take a tram stay overnight.

25 KYOTO Nightlife

Bars and clubs If you’re looking for a more relaxed evening, Pig and Whistle is the place to go. This British pub has a good selection of drinks and food, and it’s a friendly place to meet locals and other international travellers! You’ll be welcomed with a free drink on arrival when you step inside Kitsune nightclub. Filled with glowsticks and wacky Japanese Pontocho is a narrow alley packed Contents entertainment, you’re in for a crazy with restaurants, with a wide range of night. The club is open every day of Pontocho options for dining, including traditional the week, including Sunday nights. is a narrow Kyoto cuisine. The atmosphere of this For a more chilled out vibe, head alley area is worth checking out whether Overview to Jittoku, located in an old sake packed with you are looking for a proper meal or brewery. The Japanese call Jittoku restaurants, just a place to relax and have a drink. a live-house; featuring many live with a wide music acts ranging from rock, blues, range of Entertainment Tokyo Japanese pop, Irish fiddle, electronica, options There are plenty of market-style stores and more. for dining, and food venues to choose from at including Shinkyogoku shopping arcade. You Places to eat traditional could spend hours exploring this area Kyoto is home to many cheap and Kyoto if this is your thing. Kyoto delicious sushi trains. Kappa Sushi cuisine. Gear Kyoto is a non-verbal offers a wide variety and great prices, performance, so that both locals and but for authentic handmade sushi, international visitors can enjoy the

Musashi Sushi is a great spot to eat. show. The show involves magic, dance, Osaka There are hundreds of cheap sushi comedy, and mime. If you’re interested trains to explore, so don’t be afraid to in theatre and have a spare night in Kyoto, it’s definitely worth checking out. try as many as possible. Hiroshima Menbakaichidai Fire Ramen Round 1 is a multi-story amusement Restaurant in Kyoto is a great centre. You can rent a private karaoke experience; the local staff are booth, enjoy hours of bowling, play welcoming, and encourage tourists arcade games, hop into a photo to come into their restaurant as you booth, and check out Las Vegas style Okinawa walk by. Dinner hours can get busy for gambling. Even if you’re not interested them, so it’s best to avoid the 6pm- in doing any of these things, it’s worth 8pm rush. visiting the venue just to check it out.

26 KYOTO One-Day Itinerary

Early morning at Kiyomizu-dera The uphill path to Kiyomizu-dera gets congested as the day goes on, but the temple opens at 6am. This is the perfect time to enjoy a quiet morning stroll around the temple, and down to the Otowa waterfall. Take a moment to drink its magical waters for luck in Contents love, studies, or for a long life. After your visit to the temple, spend your walk back down sampling snacks at souvenir shops. We Overview recommend the various flavours of Yatsuhashi, a triangle-shaped mochi. Afternoon temple break, Near Kiyomizu-dera is your next Kyoto International Manga stop, Sanjusangen-do. This Buddhist Museum, and Nijo Castle Most Tokyo temple, built in 1164, houses 1001 Call ahead and make lunch temples statues of the goddess of mercy, reservations at the Samurai Cafe and stop letting Kannon. Its name literally means “33 Bar near the International Manga visitors in 30 intervals”, a traditional method of Museum. Their popularity makes min before measuring the size of a building. going in on a whim difficult. closing, so Kyoto Built without a single nail, this old After lunch, learn about manga at keep an wooden temple has a stunning view the International Manga Museum. eye on the that is especially magical in autumn. Peruse manga translated from all over clock. If you the world and get a portrait done by manage to Osaka one of their staff artists. Depending time it right, on the day and time, you can also the end of watch manga artists at work. the day can Hiroshima A short bike ride away from the be the best manga museum is Nijo Castle. time to visit. Ditch your shoes and walk on the old wooden nightingale floors at Ninomaru Palace. As you walk around Okinawa looking at painted sliding doors, the floorboards sing. It sounds like the ancient palace is alive, with the

27 KYOTO plucking of a thousand eerie strings. stunning as the sun starts to lower in Nijo Castle also includes gardens and the sky. defensive keeps. The Golden An evening at Arashiyama Temple Late afternoon at Kinkaku-ji After Kinkaku-ji, take a train, bus, or looks If you're hungry, stop by Ryoan-ji for bike ride to Arashiyama's bamboo stunning some Yudofu (boiled tofu). You’ll have grove. There's a ton to do here and as the sun a beautiful view of the temple and its the tall bamboo grove is lit up at night. starts to gardens during this traditional meal. Hidden away in the grove is lower in Most temples stop letting visitors in Nonomiya Shrine. This small shrine is the sky. 30 min before closing, so keep an eye mentioned in The Tale of Genji, a classic on the clock. If you manage to time it work of Japanese literature written right, the end of the day can be the in the early years of the 11th century. Getting Contents best time to visit. The doors will shut You can also head over to Kameyama- behind you, giving you enough time to koen Park to spot some monkeys, or around take pictures at your leisure. Kinkaku- finish your trip to Kyoto with a walk Rail and ji, the Golden Temple, looks absolutely through the ethereal Kimono Forest. metro Overview Like Tokyo, the rail and metro systems are the easiest ways to get around.

Buy multiple- Tokyo day passes for convenience and save. Rail staff operate at all ticket gates and Kyoto are generally very helpful to foreigners.

Buses Osaka These aren’t the most user-friendly for non-Japanese speakers, but it does cover a large Hiroshima part of the city.

Taxis By far the most

expensive mode Okinawa of transport in Japan. Think twice before hopping in!

28 Contents Overview Tokyo Kyoto

OSAKA Osaka espite being Japan’s second-largest city, Osaka is far too often overlooked by travellers. But don’t worry, Dwe won’t let you make the same mistake. With Hiroshima some of the country’s most fun-loving people and a world- class drinking and dining culture, it’s a perennial favourite among locals and foodies the world over. It is, after all,

known as the “nation’s kitchen” and boasts of being the Okinawa birthplace of okonomiyaki, takoyaki, and udon. So do as the locals and grab a bike – plus a pair of chopsticks – and join us in exploring this food-lover’s paradise.

29 OSAKA Must See and Do

Shinsekai Considered one of the dodgiest areas in Osaka, Shinsekai has a lot of character – and characters! Visit at night and choose a kushi-katsu restaurant. We suggest a smaller one with plastic chairs outside (in summer) to best enjoy the view of Tsutenkaku Tower, a 100m, octagonal construction Contents modelled after the Eiffel Tower. Get set ordering deep-fried foods on sticks and you’re in for a top night. We recommend plum and shiso Overview chicken, but go crazy and try cheese- cake, or half-boiled egg. Prices are neon glare from karaoke bar signs, usually between ¥80 to ¥100 per stick, and the run-down, 1980's cyberpunk and up to ¥500 for a beer – which atmosphere. Turn down Tokyo kushi-katsu goes really well with. Don't Turn down a few lanes off the main a few lanes forget to yell okini! (oh-kee-nee “thank drag to the quiet, cobble-stoned street off the main you”) as you leave. of restaurants – which the crowds drag to never seem to find. For travellers who the quiet, Dotonbori prefer people-watching, find a spot cobble- Kyoto Another sweet night spot is on Dotonboribashi bridge among stoned Dotonbori. See the famous Glico spiky-haired hosts plying their trade. street of man, and the robot crab, revel in the Beware of the optimistic high school restaurants girls attempting to ride their bicycles – which Osaka through the crowd. the crowds never seem

Osaka Castle to find. Hiroshima Osaka castle is incredibly impressive. Outside the 30m high castle walls, the beautiful park is a favourite spot during cherry blossom season for BBQs. Okinawa The main building itself is a reconstruction, with a museum inside. Some dislike the elevator, however it

30 OSAKA

temples and shrines as Kyoto, but it is the site of the oldest Buddhist temple in Japan, Shitennoji. From the pagoda, the other temple buildings, beautiful rows of hanging lanterns, to the pond of abandoned pet turtles – there’s plenty to see here. On the 21st and 22nd of every month, there is also a huge flea market. If you’re willing to venture out on the 11th of February, you will witness Doya Doya Matsuri, a sympathetic-shudder-inducing festival, Contents where high school boys run through sheets of freezing water to catch paper charms, and ensure their luck for the year to come. Overview does increase the ease of access for travellers with walking difficulties. Black SUVs idle along the street,

reminding nervous tourists that Osaka's Tokyo Tobita Shinchi underbelly is watching. Less family-friendly, but interesting on many levels, is the neighbourhood of Tobita Shinchi. This large brothel district remains true to a traditional Kyoto style that has otherwise vanished from Japan. Beautifully dressed prostitutes sit in the doorways, waiting for customers. Osaka Even in winter, they sit by kerosene heaters, ensconced in fluffy blankets

that still manage to reveal some skin. Hiroshima Black SUVs idle along the street, reminding nervous tourists that Osaka's underbelly is watching, unless they are otherwise engaged. Photography is strictly not allowed. Okinawa

Shitennoji Osaka is not as well known for its

31 OSAKA Outdoor Activities

Picnic among the cherry blossoms at Tennoji Park Tennoji Park is a world away from the hustle and bustle of the city. Situated in the southern part of the city, the park is a botanical oasis, right next to Tennoji Station. Pack yourself a picnic and take some time to enjoy its natural beauty. It’s the perfect spot for bike Contents riding, or a leisurely afternoon stroll. The best time to visit is in spring, when the native sakura (cherry blossom) are in full bloom. You’ll be spoilt for Overview choice on statues, open spaces for sport, cafés, and restaurants. card being the Ryuanji Temple, located at the midpoint of the walk. Take photos around scenic The grounds Tokyo Minoo Park Osaka Castle and gardens of Osaka If the inner-city escape of Tennoji Park Osaka Castle sprawls across sweeping Castle are wasn’t enough for you, head further grounds, which cover over 60,000 sqm. a sight to north to the splendour of Minoo It’s filled with over 600 cherry trees behold (Minoh) Park. It’s most well-known for and boasts a moat tall enough to give a during Kyoto the walking trail, Takimichi, built in view over most of the city. spring, 1886. The grounds are a sight to behold when cherry Whether you’re an avid hiker or during spring, when cherry blossoms blossoms looking for a casual stroll, Minoo Park frame the castle in bright pink flowers. frame Osaka has something for everyone. Its trails At any time of the year though, It’s still it with begin with a 2.7km paved walkway, and a popular walking spot for locals and bright pink is easily accessible from the main train tourists alike. flowers. Hiroshima station. Entry to the castle grounds is free. Minoo waterfall is only a short Make sure you allow a few hours distance along the trail, and is an to walk the perimeter of the castle. incredible spot for taking photos and To discover the full history of this enjoying the beautiful red foliage remarkable building, visit the eight- Okinawa during autumn. storey museum inside the castle The walk around Minoo Park should – the view from the top is well worth take around 45min, with a major draw the climb.

32 OSAKA Nightlife

Dotonbori This is the night-time heart of Osaka, with its neon lights and hundreds of eating and drinking establishments. The canal that runs through the centre of the district is flanked on both sides by cafes, restaurants, bars, and street food stalls. You'll also find theShochikuza , a large old theatre that showcases traditional arts like kabuki. The Zuboraya restaurant is an izakaya (savoury cabbage pancake with a wide Contents (Japanese gastropub) specialising in fugu range of toppings) washed down with (blowfish). The potentially poisonous The canal shochu, the Japanese distilled liquor. fish is displayed in tanks out front. Inside, that runs the atmosphere is convivial. Fugu is great through Shinsekai Overview paired with nihonshu, or sake, and there's the centre Shinsekai means “new world” in Japanese, plenty on offer here. of the and this old neighbourhood looks like Another favourite is Kanidoraku, the district is what someone envisioned the new world famous crab izakaya with its enormous, flanked on to look like, 100 years ago. Tokyo moving 3D crab, beckoning patrons from both sides The Tsutenkaku Tower rises above the street. Crab dishes go well with both by cafes, the city at the centre of the district. The nihonshu and Japanese beer. For dessert, restaurants, nostalgic neighbourhood is a good place try a crepe from Alcyon Creperie. The bars, and to enjoy street food like kushi-katsu (deep “tanuki” crepe has chestnut cream, street food fried food on sticks), whiskey highballs in Kyoto toasted soy powder, and vanilla ice cream stalls. tiny dive bars (be sure to order Suntory, and is our favourite here. which was born and bred in Osaka), looking at old-fashioned movie posters

Hozenji Yokocho and antique pachinko parlours. Osaka The name of this little street in the Try takoyaki (bits of chopped octopus Dotonbori neighbourhood, a few in a savoury batter grilled in globes the size of a golf ball) at , blocks south of the canal, means “Hozen Aji no Daimaru Hiroshima Temple Alley.” The narrow pathway is where you can choose your own choked with tiny bars and restaurants, toppings. Order some Asahi beer to go many hung with paper chochin lanterns, with it — the famous beer company and runs up to the Hozen Temple. originated in Osaka. There's also a spa Though the alley is only 80m long and complex with real hot spring water and Okinawa 2.7m wide, it hosts over 50 shops. Try corny themes called Spa World, where katsudon (pork cutlet over rice) sold at a you can relax by getting naked with shop of the same name, or okonomiyaki strangers.

33 OSAKA One-Day Itinerary

Breakfast at Osaka castle Early morning stillness at Osaka Castle belies the intense crowds later in the day. Sit on a bench by the moat with some coffee and a packet of hotcakes from a nearby conbini (convenience store), with a view of stone walls so massive they seem to blur in the distance. Contents

Dotonbori and Shinsaibashi shopping The inner city neighbourhoods around Overview Namba are excellent for random exploration and discovery. Within the array of kitchen utensils in Sennichimae narrow alleys are some of the city's Doguyasuji Shopping Street, enroute most multi-cultural dining options to Namba Parks. Snack on takoyaki As the Tokyo – from New Zealand meat pies, to (octopus in spheres of savoury batter). afternoon Persian kebabs, with lots of local fare in cools, head between. Down-time at Namba Parks south, and Walk along the canals of Dotonbori, Take some time to chill in Namba experience and see Glico man, newly resplendent in Parks. This shopping district was a time-warp Kyoto LEDs; hunt for second hand shops, and beautifully designed with nature in to Japan's vinyl records within Shinsaibashi; and mind, and green terraces break the Showa era. then start heading south through the otherwise grey city sprawl. Nod off

watching a movie, or refill your reserves Osaka in Bagel and Bagel. Surprisingly enough, its main menu item is bagels,

but they also bake brownies, cookies, Hiroshima and muffins.

City walk: Shitennoji to Shinsekai via Tobita Shinchi As the afternoon cools, head south, Okinawa and experience a time-warp to Japan's Showa era. The districts around Tennoji are older and poorer, and many shops

34 OSAKA have not been renovated since the 80s. Osaka, and very different toKabuki- First stop, Shitennoji, Japan's cho in Tokyo. Young women wait oldest Buddhist temple located 2kms in the doorways, watched over In Shinsekai, south east of Namba Parks. Check by elderly mama-chan. Foreigners for a very the calendars around your arrival are not encouraged, and neither is reasonable date, as this beautiful temple hosts photography, however walking down price, you the occasional flea market. Important the street is tolerated. can eat seasonal festivals like the goose- Head directly north towards the your fill and bumps inducing Doya Doya Matsuri iron beacon of Tsutenkaku. The drink some are also held in February, when high tower stands within Shinsekai, a beers to an school aged boys, clothed only in loin neighbourhood that exudes a Blade- excellent cloths, run through freezing showers Runner-esque, slightly tattered glitz. day. of water flung on them by their sadistic It’s the best place in the city for kushi- Contents teachers. katsu (deep-fry on a stick) restaurants, Thrills of a different sort abound and for a very reasonable price, you can Getting in Tobita Shinchi, 2kms south. It’s eat your fill and drink some beers to an around the largest prostitution district in excellent day in Osaka. Overview Rail and metro The best way to get around Osaka. Purchase

an unlimited, Tokyo 1-day pass at vending machines in any of the subway stations from ¥800 per Kyoto day.

Buses Like most major

cities, buses are Osaka available, but they aren’t very easy to use for non-Japanese speakers. Hiroshima

Taxis Taxis are the most expensive mode

of transport in Okinawa Japan. Think twice before hopping in!

35 Contents Overview Tokyo Kyoto

HIROSHIMA Osaka hough most well-known for its tragic past, today, Hiroshima is one T of Japan’s most vibrant cities. Many Hiroshima tourists visit the city on day trips (it takes just 90 min from Osaka on the shinkansen), but stay a weekend and you’ll discover

a treasure-trove of historic sites, awe- Okinawa inspiring museums and some of the wildest nightlife in Japan. It’s time to rediscover this infamous city.

36 HIROSHIMA Must See and Do

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Visit the UNESCO World Heritage site, Hiroshima Peace Memorial, a.k.a. the A-Bomb dome. It’s located along the Motoyasu River and also near Hiroshima Peace Park. The fact that the shell of this iconic building still stands today symbolises the resilience of Hiroshima after the Contents attack in 1945.

Hiroshima Peace Park History gets pretty real in the park’s Overview Peace Memorial Museum, with exhibits of burnt-out school uniforms Momijidani Park of kids who disappeared after the The perfect times to visit the park attack and photos of hibakusha is during autumn, when the momiji History Tokyo (people who were exposed to the (Japanese maple) trees turn a vibrant gets pretty bomb’s radiation). red, or during spring, when the cherry real in the If this sounds like too much, there blossoms are in full riot. park’s Peace are many other monuments in the From the park, you can hike or Memorial park to pay your respects, like the take a cable to the top of Mt. Misen Museum, Kyoto Children’s Peace Monument. for panoramic views of the Seto with exhibits Inland Sea. of burnt- Itsukushima out school This island, also known as Miyajima, Hiroshima Castle uniforms Osaka is home to the Itsukushima shrine Although the original was destroyed of kids who and its famous red torii gate. during WWII, the renovated structure disappeared.

Both appear to float on the sea at is pretty impressive. Hiroshima high tide. Inside, learn about Hiroshima’s history, Be sure to try the momiji manju try on samurai gear, or trek to the top (maple leaf-shaped cakes) and fresh- of the castle for expansive views of grilled oysters. the city. Heads up: deer roam the streets Afterwards, trawl the grounds for Okinawa freely and although they’re pretty the perfect picnic spot or feed the tame, they will steal your food when koi and turtles that live in the moats you’re not looking! around the castle.

37 HIROSHIMA

with carrots, take the ferry from Tadanoumi Port (2h from the city) and prepare to be mobbed!

Ninoshima Ninoshima is another island worth checking out. Accessible by ferry from Hiroshima Port, it’s home to Aki no Kofuji, the island’s own version of Mt. Fuji. It’s definitely off-the-beaten- path, having once been the site for quarantining Japanese soldiers and Contents atomic bomb victims during WWII. Cycle around the island’s peaceful trails and bring some snacks since there aren’t any restaurants here. Overview

Shukkeien Garden About 15 mins walk from Hiroshima Does an entire island overrun with Station is Shukkeien Garden, a bunnies sound like heaven to you? To get Tokyo compact, Edo-period landscape your furry fix, head to Okunoshima. garden. Although smaller than other famous gardens in Japan, Shukkeien Garden is perfect if you want to escape the crowds for a while. Kyoto Stroll along the paths and contemplate the miniaturised landscapes of forests and mountains to find your Zen in the middle of the Osaka heaving city.

Okunoshima Hiroshima Does an entire island overrun with bunnies sound like heaven to you? If so, to get your furry fix, head to Okunoshima, found off the mainland. Although the rabbits were Okinawa first brought here to test poison gas during WWII, today, they’re perfectly harmless. Stuff your pockets

38 HIROSHIMA

Nightlife Looking for something more familiar? Molly Malone’s is the closest thing you’ll Get serious about Sake get to an authentic Irish pub – owned Did you know that Hiroshima’s nightlife is by an Irish man – in this part of Japan. the place to try world-class sake? They’re Popular with expats and locals, you’re so serious about this drink that every bound to meet an interesting crowd October, the Saijo district hosts a huge here on any night. Catch up on the latest sake festival where you can drink to your footy or rugby match and get this – you heart’s content. This tiny can even get a Sunday roast here! bar has an Other hot spots in town: The Shack, Popular bars and clubs intimate Bar Pretty, Southern Cross, Le Jyan Even if the Japanese staple isn’t your feel and Jyan, Tropical Bar Revolucion. favourite tipple, there are lots of places there’s free Contents to cosy up with a glass of wine or whiskey karaoke if Must-try restaurants and munch on some yakitori (Japanese- you’re into You can’t leave Hiroshima without style meat on a stick). belting trying its claim-to-fame – okonomiyaki. Start at Nagarekawa, Hiroshima’s out 80’s This savoury pancake is a one-size- Overview ultimate party district. Wander around hair band fits-all crepe, overflowing with the streets to check out beer gardens, anthems. noodles, meat, seafood, vegetables izakayas, bars, nightclubs, pachinko and any other ingredient you want, all parlours, hostess clubs… you name it! smothered with a savoury-sweet sauce. Tokyo If you’re looking for some decent craft One of the best places to chow beer, try Raku Bar, the self-styled down on this awesome deliciousness Japanese craft beer café. They offer is Okonomimura. In this four-storey nomihodai (all you can drink) so you try as building, you can choose from loads many craft beers as you like. Be sure to of okonomiyaki restaurants. Follow the Kyoto try Kaigunsan, craft beer from Kure City crowd (or your nose), pull up a chair to in Hiroshima Prefecture. the hot griddle (watch those elbows), If you’re after a more rock ‘n roll and let the chef do his thing. atmosphere to swill your whiskey or Another famous place to try Osaka shochu, Koba cranks out the tunes until okonomiyaki in Hiroshima is Micchan. late. Bom-san, the bar’s musician-owner, This restaurant claims to be one of the makes you feel right at home, as though city’s first, serving up the dish since Hiroshima you’ve been friends for ages. Koba also the 1950s. Although there are many hosts live music on occasion. in town, locals swear by the one in With a name like Wonderful Joke Hatchobori. Bar, you’re bound to be curious. This On the other hand, if you’re feeling tiny bar has an intimate feel and there’s adventurous and you’re after a spicier Okinawa free karaoke if you’re into belting out version of the Japanese dish, head 80’s hair band anthems or some sweet to Lopez Okonomiyaki for jalapeno Taylor Swift. pepper-style okonomiyaki.

39 HIROSHIMA One-Day Itinerary

Spend the morning at Hiroshima Peace Park Hiroshima’s peace park is a truly serene and contemplative space located in the centre of Hiroshima. Start here in the morning to avoid the crowds. Designed by architect Kenzō Tange, this area was once a busy part of downtown Hiroshima, flattened by Contents the 1945 Hiroshima bombing. The park is a space to memorialise the victims, and for contemplating world peace. Overview Next, take a walk through the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum. serves as exhibition of Japan’s history The museum is dedicated to up until 1945. educating the world, with hopes for The Tokyo a more peaceful future through the Art walk at Hiroshima Hiroshima legacyof those affected by the 1945 Museum of Art Peace atomic bomb. Located opposite Hiroshima Castle, the Memorial Hiroshima Castle, built in 1958, is a Hiroshima Museum of Art features Museum is complete reconstruction of the 1590’s a collection of classical, modern, and dedicated Kyoto original that was flattened in the contemporary works from both Japan to educating atomic bombing. Complementary to and abroad. This impressive collection is the world, the Peace Memorial Museum, it now complemented by a rotation of world- with hopes class temporary exhibitions that ensure for a more Osaka there is always something to see. peaceful On your way to the Shukkei en future

garden, stop off for lunch at one of the through the Hiroshima okonomiyaki restaurants to sample the legacy local specialty: Hiroshima-yaki. of those affected. An afternoon of Zen Dating back to 1620, this famous Okinawa garden is known for its miniature natural landscapes. Stroll through the garden along the path, taking you past

40 HIROSHIMA multiple teahouses, offering perfect along the Momijidani river, the park is views of the traditional Japanese one of the most beautiful maple leaf garden aesthetics. parks in Japan. Oysters Famous for its beautiful floating torii are one of gate, Itsukushima shrine is the must- Cap off the night Hiroshima’s see centrepiece of Miyajima island. with fresh seafood most Built along the shore of the island, Oysters are one of Hiroshima’s most celebrated the centuries-old shrine is Miyajima’s celebrated local produce, so no trip local namesake, translating to ‘Shrine Island.’ to the prefecture is complete without produce, Regarded as a holy Shinto site, the a tasting. Enjoy one of the various so no trip shrine consists of multiple buildings restaurants on Miyajima serving the to the that appear to float on the water island’s famous barbecued oysters. prefecture during high tide. The famous Yakigaki-no-hayashi is complete Contents Behind Itsukushima shrine lies serves oysters in every way imaginable. without a Momijidani park at the base of Mt. Note that the last JR ferry leaves at tasting. Misen. Cultivated during the Edo 8:15pm, but the last Matsudai Kisen period when the saplings were planted ferry is not until 10:15pm. Overview Getting around Rail and

metro Tokyo Tokyo and Hiroshima are also connected by the JR Tokaido/Sanyo Kyoto Shinkansen.

Buses Ferries are the

best way to get Osaka to different islands. There are overnight ferries for longer trips. Hiroshima

Taxis These are the most expensive mode of

transport in Okinawa Japan. Think twice before hopping in!

41 Contents Overview Tokyo Kyoto

OKINAWA Osaka rom the moment you arrive, you’ll see why Japan’s southernmost prefecture is known as “The Hawaii of Japan”. With its sun- Fblessed, tropical weather, and endless white sand beaches, you’ll Hiroshima never want to leave. Made up of more than one hundred subtropical islands – collectively known as the and stretched over 700km of ocean – this is where the Japanese come to get away from

it all. There’s pristine oceans and coral reefs, teeming with life, for Okinawa divers. There’s rugged terrain, covered in lush vegetation, for hikers and mountain-bikers. Okinawa is an adventure traveller’s dream- come-true. Get ready to fall in love with Japan’s best-kept secret.

42 OKINAWA Must See and Do

Explore Shuri castle To get there, catch a train to Shuri station, and take a short walk to the castle. Shuri Castle will keep you occupied for half a day, so make sure you give yourself plenty of time. There are warning signs for poisonous Habu snakes for a reason – leave them undisturbed and you’ll Contents escape unscathed. After buying your pass, explore this unique structure, check out the gorgeous rooms, and marvel at the lacquer hardware. Overview Don’t miss the traditional performances too, where you might don’t miss the botanical gardens. Here, even be bitten by a performing shisa you can make traditional crafts, feed (lion-dog) for good luck! and ride Miyako ponies, and explore Here, you Tokyo a small jungle. Downtown is good for can make Go for a snorkel or hand-crafted souvenirs and sampling traditional dive the Kerama islands the local delicacies – Miyako soba and crafts, feed For day trips and short getaways, fresh sea grapes are a must! At Miyako and ride visit the Tokashiki, Zamami, Aka and airport, you can rent a car or scooter if Miyako Kyoto Geruma islands. There are plenty of you haven’t organised one beforehand. ponies, and marine adventures like snorkelling and explore a diving, which are world-class, or just Visit Okinawa’s picture- small jungle. relax on any of the white sand perfect Osaka beaches and admire the clear blue This gorgeous chain of islands is just a sea. Camping on Zamami is popular short flight from Naha city. If you’re

too, and provides access to looking for pristine beaches, wild Hiroshima uninhabited islands. flora and fauna with local charm and flavours, this is the place to be. The Learn traditional crafts islands include Ishigaki, and Yonaguni. at Miyakojima A couple of nights’ stay at each is Friendly Miyakojima is renowned highly recommended. Okinawa for its beaches and reefs, including Sunayama, Araguska, Yoneha, and Monkey around Ishigaki Maehama. For the culture-vultures, Hiking, visiting beaches, and eating

43 OKINAWA ishigaki beef are the must-do experiences here. Cars and scooter are the recommended way to get around the island – you can rent these when you arrive. Take some time to stop by the lookout points and explore the local crafts shops and restaurants. Have a picnic overseeing either Hirakubo or Uganzaki Lighthouse. Immerse yourself in local culture and have fun with monkeys at Ishigaki Yaima Village. Contents Advanced divers can also swim with Contents manta rays – all the local dive shops regularly have tours, so pick your favourite. For longer stays, hop over to Overview the islands of Taketomi, Iriomote, Overview and Yonaguni. Hiking boots are a must, as the Ancient civilisations journey will involve crossing a river and Some say in Yonaguni passing a waterfall, but the views at Tokyo Tokyo A curious underwater formation Yonaguni the summit are just incredible. is the subject of debate amongst are ancient archaeologists (and truthers) ruins, others Take a leisurely hike everywhere. Some say they are ancient claim aliens. up Mt. Gusuku Kyoto ruins, others claim aliens. Killjoys say it’s Killjoys This distinctive rocky mountain of Kyoto just a natural formation. say it’s just Iejima is only a 30min ferry from Decide for yourself with an a natural mainland Okinawa. The course will unforgettable close-up dive (make sure formation. have you passing through torii gate and Osaka you’re properly licensed), or view it via visiting a sacred shrine. It’s suitable for Osaka glass-bottom boat. hikers of all levels. Though hiking boots aren’t required, enclosed footwear is Hiroshima Conquer Mt. Omoto, advisable. Hiroshima Okinawa’s highest peak Take more than a few selfies with At 582m above sea level, Mt. Omoto the panoramic views at the top and on takes about 2h for make sure you quench your hard- a return trip and the views are well earned thirst afterwards at a local Okinawa worth the effort. It’s pretty small eatery downtown. Okinawa compared to other treks on mainland Try Okinawa's soba noodles, which Japan, but it’s still challenging, so it’s are thicker than udon noodles, and best suitable for experienced hikers. often served with pork belly.

44 OKINAWA Outdoor Activities

Live the Island life on Kerama islands As the closest group of islands off mainland Okinawa, you can easily enjoy a day trip or a short stay here compared to the southern-based islands. Tokashiki, Zamami, Aka, and Geruma make up this veritable smorgasbord of sightseeing and Contents adventure activities. From viewing humpback whales to camping, and of course – diving, snorkelling, and sunbaking – you’ll always be Overview entertained. At night, enjoy the beautiful fireworks or stargaze with For something a little different, friends over a local beer or sake. go exploring around the Boraga “pumpkin cave”. Meet the Tokyo See the postcard-worthy cheeky beaches of Miyakojima Feed the fishes in Ishigaki residents Get ready to try snorkelling, diving, With a coast dotted with beaches, of Monkey stand-up paddle boarding, kayaking, the reef of Yonehara is definitely a Forest at and even banana-boating. There are highlight. Here, friendly locals will Ishigaki Kyoto also a tonne of beaches that are the advise you of the top snorkelling Yaima stuff of postcards likeSunayama, spots, and may even give you Village Maenohama, Yoshino, and Aragusku. some food. It’s not for you – bring and don’t it with you snorkelling so you’ll be forget to try Osaka surrounded by hungry and colourful their local tropical fish. signature

Meet the cheeky residents of dish, Hiroshima Monkey Forest at Ishigaki Yaima ishigaki Village and don’t forget to try their beef. local signature dish, ishigaki beef.

Diving with aliens Okinawa in Yonaguni This is the southern-most island of the Yaeyama islands (in fact,

45 OKINAWA the whole of Japan). A mysterious underwater rock formation is a must- see attraction here. One theory claims that it was formed naturally, while others say it was man-made. Either way, definitely go have a look and decide for yourself. Even if you don’t dive, you can view this unusual wonder on board a glass-bottomed boat.

Hike Mt. Gusuku This unique landmark on Ie island has a breathtaking trail, suitable for all Contents levels of hikers. It winds past a shrine lined by several torii gates, all the way up to a summit with spectacular views of the Overview town below, the deep blue sea, and mainland Okinawa. There are steps Ryukyu islands diving all the way to the top, so while hiking Diving is no doubt one of the main shoes are not necessary, enclosed attractions of Okinawa. Speak to any of Tokyo shoes are highly recommended. the local (accredited) dive shops about your level of experience and what you’d like to see and they can point you in the right direction. You can greet a rainbow of exotic fish, and perhaps even a turtle Kyoto or two. Head towards Ishigaki for a manta ray experience, but make sure you bring your diving license! Osaka Spider loop mountain biking area

Gearheads can challenge themselves Hiroshima with this track based on mainland Okinawa. Check out shorter trails like The Chute and Spider Alley (don’t worry, the giant spiders are harmless, despite their threatening appearance). Okinawa To enjoy the bumps and thrills, make your way to Kaneda, which is accessible by car.

46 OKINAWA Nightlife

Izakayas These cosy Japanese gastro pubs are the heart of Okinawa nightlife, and they’re chock full of character. Here you’ll find Japanese co-workers or friends sitting cross-legged on tatami mats enjoying a wide range of shared dishes. We recommend ordering the local specialty – Okinawa soba, of which every izakaya will have their unique, secret recipe. Some izakaya offer all-you-can-eat or Pankiewicz. There’s great food and Contents all-you-can-drink specials for a set fee. drinks, and is often filled with martial There’s no need to search for a specific There is a artists making their pilgrimage to the izakaya, just head to the nearest one, wide range birthplace of karate. point at a few items on the picture menu of cuisine. Parker’s Mood Jazz Club serves up Overview and enjoy. Diners can fine wines with live jazz, whileGold Disc choose from caters for those who long for the days Drinks Thai, Indian, of rockabilly and Elvis. At Hateruma For beverages, the local Orion beer Nepalese, on Kokusai Street, there are nightly Tokyo reigns supreme. For something stronger, Mexican, performances of traditional Okinawan try the awamori. Although similar to sake, Turkish, music, with songs played on the three- awamori is made with Thai rather than Greek and string sanshin. Japanese rice, and served with a jug of Italian. cold water and ice. Chatan Kyoto You pour and mix your own drink, and About 45min north of Naha is the traditionally the drink of your superior. beachside entertainment area of For those looking for something alcohol- Chatan. In close proximity to the U.S. free, try the sanpincha (jasmine tea) military base, there is a wide range of Osaka or one of the local fruit juices, acerola international cuisine. Diners can choose (similar to cranberry) or shikuwasa (similar from Thai, Indian, Nepalese, Mexican, to a lime). Turkish, Greek, and Italian restaurants. Hiroshima In the capital, Naha City, Sakaemachi The Okinawa Brewing Company’s Arcade is filled with small bars where Mihama Café, has the best selection of you can meet the locals. craft beers on the island. Your night wouldn’t be complete without Naha Nightlife a line dance and a ride on a mechanical Okinawa Naha is home to some excellent nightlife. bull, so pull on your boots and head over The Dojo Bar is owned by karate to Nashville Restaurant and Rodeo, black belt and British ex-pat, James “The place to git yer country on.”

47 OKINAWA One-Day Getting Itinerary around Monorail For a quick stop-over The monorail If you are travelling elsewhere and only navigates Okinawa is just a stopover, we’d around Naha. Though the suggest to stay close by the airport. transportation Chances are, this might be in Naha is efficient, it city. There’s plenty to do here and can be confusing for anyone that getting around is easy with busses, doesn’t know monorails, or taxis. To utilise your their way around, time well, a taxi will be your best bet. For a day-trip or speak the Contents Though it’s the costlier option than the If you’ve got 24 hours in Okinawa, WE language. others, you can get to exactly where HAVE GOOD NEWS! There’s a lot more Taxi you want to go. time to squeeze in a bit more. Hire a There are plenty Overview Head to Hokusai Street in car and drive to the northern part of of taxis around, Naha, which is lined with souvenir the island, where you’ll find beautiful but these will shops and places to try delicious local beaches and less tourist crowds. leave you out of pocket. cuisine. Next, hop in a cab and head Head to Motobu Peninsula, a to Shuri Castle, the palace of the beautiful region surrounded by crystal

Planes Tokyo Ryuku Empire. clear ocean. Visit Okinawa’s Churaumi From the If you’ve got time afterwards, head Aquarium, which is one of the largest mainland, to Okinawa World – just 30min from in the world and a must-see. While Okinawa is an easy plane ride to Shuri Castle – where you can take you’re here, take a walk around Ocean the city of Naha. Kyoto a look at the museum, explore the Expo Park to learn about local sea-life. Islands closer natural cave and grab a bite to eat. Don't forget to stop at Nakijin to mainland Okinawa are It’s also a great place to grab some Castle too, one of the largest castles accessible by handmade souvenirs for the family! in Okinawa. Depending on your boat, whereas budget, we’d recommend staying at another flight Osaka is required for one of the resorts up this end of the islands further island – it will be well worth the money south. and give you more time to explore this Hiroshima untouched part of Okinawa. Buses Though buses connect within the islands, these aren’t very Drive to the northern part easy to use for Okinawa of Naha island, where non-Japanese you’ll find beautiful speakers. beaches and less crowds.

48 Contents

Thanks to our See our other guides contributors: Overview Alexis Zahner Amelia Gambier Thailand Survival Guide Tips, advice, warnings, and alerts to Amy Mckie make the most of your Thailand holiday. Ayli Chong Tokyo Like the tourism promotion says, Bjorn Koolen Thailand is amazing. Chris Willson Ed Salvato US City Guide Kyoto Felicity Tillack From Portland to Austin, find out Isabella Cornell where to go and what to do in the US’s 7 coolest cities and get ready to Jenie Gabriel experience the "real" America.

Kavish Weerawardane Osaka Lauren Smith Mexico Insider's Guide Lisette Andersson White sand beaches, clear blue water, Matthew Rogers

ruined temple… get our Insider’s Guide Hiroshima Nick West to must-do Cenotes & ruins to see the Pasqualina Perone best of the Caribbean coast. Selena Hoy First 24 hours in India

Shante Cruz Okinawa Arriving in India for the first time can Suzanne Bhagan be overwhelming. Survive the first 24h Teagan Short in India’s top 10 cities and you’ll feel at Timothy Trahan home in no time.

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