Torinese Stories MEN and IDEAS THAT HAVE MADE the CITY GREAT

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TURIN CITY GUIDE ®

JUNE 2019 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

Torinese Stories MEN AND IDEAS THAT HAVE MADE THE CITY GREAT

ALL YOU CAN DO IN JUNE Top events and places to be

DISCOVER THE ALLURE OF PIEDMONT Several destinations for an out-of-town experience

YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936® WELCOME TO ITALY ® whereMAGAZINE Turin Turin WINE Dear Visitor, welcome to Italy! Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. 32 T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 the guide 2019 is the year in which Italy will be overflowing [email protected] with celebrations marking the 500th anniversary www.whereitalia.com/turin 24 SHOPPING of the death of Leonardo da Vinci, the man PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Andrea Jarach Good news for men ([email protected]) who more than any other, represents Italy and women in search throughout the world. MANAGING DIRECTOR of footwear, combining Andrea Jarach Daniele Misrachi Publisher Several cities including Milan, Florence and ([email protected]) design with wearability: ® Clarks has opened its first Where Rome will host a series of special events. MANAGING EDITOR The full program of Italian exhibitions and events Alessandra Finzi standalone store in Turin. BRENTATORE CORSO VERCELLI ([email protected]) ALESSANDRIA CORSO honouring Leonardo throughout 2019 can be found on the pages of TANGENZIALE NORD TORINO 32 FOOD&WINE CONTRIBUTORS VI A PAG ANE LLI INSIDER TIPS Parrocchia Santa Gianna Where®. We invite you to discover the country that gave life to the 12 CORSO GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI CORSO GIULIO CESARE ANZ OL A I V Mercato Centrale has Carey Bernitz, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana S T R A D A D I D R U E N D O di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale, 8 HOT DATES now opened in Turin to person considered the world over as one of history’s greatest thinkers. S T R A D A D I D R U E N D O STRADA DI DRUENDO Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, V I A V E R O N E S E foodies’ delight. A large While visiting Italy you’ll understand why only Italy could have given 500 m

Chiara Zaccarelli GIFT GUIDE VIA V I A R E I S S R O M O L I BERGERA VENAR space encompassing food, 16 V IA A NDREA SANSOV birth to this man whose creative mind shaped the intellectual, social, IA V I A R E I S S R O M O L I IN O ICONOGRAPHY VIA TRAVES CORSO GAETANO SCIREA Juventus Museum V I A V E R O N E S E culture and artisanship REBAUDENGO

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C O R S O F E R R A R A A VIA POMPEO COLAJANNI CARTOGRAPHY VI 34 DINING nature, medicine and art. All that now remains is for us to look A V I A R I C C A R V I A VIA SANSOVINO O R B E T E L L O VIA VANINETTI

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STRADAALTESSANO VIA SALUTE can sample traditionalA © Proedi Comunicazione 2019, ST R ADA D V ELL E V I A T E R N I ALLE T T V I E A A IO C O R S O G R O S S E T O I D I S SA DELL RACCORDO AUTOSTRADALE TORINO - CASELLE whatever part of Italy you’re visiting. E R N I A ROSS MBAR IE O V I A L E L IA D E I M LE O DEL CA LE VALLETTE CH U G H E T T I Stazione A D GL I Piedmontese dishes, CINCINNATO CORS C O R S O G R O S S E T O V CORSO VERCELLI Madonna di Campagna VIA I A STRA VIA ALA DI STURA MP VIA FIESO NZIO T E R N I MARKETING & ADVERTISING V V I A L U C E N Chiesa QUI I A L T O A C A PIAZZA VIA PIRANO V I A V I A L E D E I M U G H E T T I S O S P E L L O VI If you happen to find them, please Santa Famiglia Di Nazaret V I A L E D E I M U G H E T T I U CONTI V I A B O T T I C E L L I C CORSO DEL MOLISE C A V I A S O S P Chiesa Santa subtlyE L L O re-imagined to suit DI Giardino E L U M I R P E L L E D A I V Caterina da Siena REBAUDENGO CORSO LUCIO V Chiesa Don Gnocchi Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, I A T E R N I V I A S Madonna di Campagna O S P E L L O NA Giardino Jaquerio ADON A SEGANTINI STAV I M GN PIAZZA share your comments, with your LE MPA ENZO V I A T E R N IA A RUGGERO contemporary tastes. PIAZZA Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni I V ANNI I C AR V D V AI N C I O L A P O R P O R A VIA BORGARO BONGHI, A P PIAZZA DERNA V I A B O T T I C E L L I I VIA SARGIO V A GIO R A I VETTA V I A B R E N TA V V V I A F O R L I ’ VIA CARDINALE G. STRADAALTESSANO I A F O D'ITALIA D EL BORGO VITTORIA L I G N O VIA CASTELDELFINO ([email protected]) A Parco Sempione Est V I A M I C H E L E C O P Calvin Klein Jeans V A I N D R E AC E S A LP N I O L A P I O O photo, on our social media. By the R B C O R S O T A R A N T O VIA SANSOVINO V I A M I C H E L E CORSO LOMBARDIA C O P P I O Parco Sempione V I A V I T E C A M P I G L I V I A D E L L E P R I M U L E Giardino Cavallotti M ASSAIA

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PASQUALE 38V I A C A R L O L O R E NENTERTAINMENT Z I N I G ADMINISTRATION V I A B E R L I G N O VILLARI end of the year, we’d like to collect N A R D I N O L Stazione Torino Rebaudengo Fossata V I A N I U I N I V I A B R E G L I O V I A G U B B I O Chiesa Parr. S.Giuseppe VIA CHIESA DELLA SALUTE VIA MAZZE’ CORSO VERCELLI Katia Greto ([email protected]) Benedetto Cottolengo VIA BREGLIO Want an aperitivo or V I A E M I L I O B R U V AS TI R A D EL A V I A B R E G L I O V I A G O T T A R D O V I A F O L I G N O V I A S E M P I O N E V I A L E M M E V AI B O T T CI E L L I

S C A V I A A S S I S I a gallery of the friends of Italy. V I A P I A N E Z Z A V I A F O R L I ’ C O R S O T O S C A N A TURIN CITY GUIDE V I A B E R VIA SARGIO ® N A R D I N O L CORSO POTENZA PIAZZA after-dinner drink at an O C I G N A U I N I LUIGI

PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, CORSO LUCIO QUINZIO CINCINNATO FO VIA CEC MATTIROLO VIA L VIA CARDINALE GUGLIE VIA CASTELDELFINO REGIO C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A V I A F O L I G N O A S TA OS F A I V AURO V I A B E R N A R D I N O L U I N I V I A T O Parrocchia Maria Speranza Nostra Happy hunting! VIA BORG M M A S O G U L L I TERBO GLIZZO ROSSI Contents LARGO A V I A G O T T A R D O OMASSIMO exceptional location? I A F R A N V I A S E M P I O N E Ospedale San Giovanni

RELLI SALES SUPPORT MANAGER VIA BORGARO VIA SARGIO ERRICO AN V PARCO WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN V I A V I I Bosco JUNE 2019 BIO C O R S O T A R A N T O BARRIERA GIACHINO VIA GIAMBATTISTA PERGOLE BIB RTO CORSO LOMBARDIA C O R S O T O S C A N A GUB ELLA SALUTE VIA BORSI L VIA VIA VAL DELLA TORRE MO MA V I A LEMME Paola Grilli ([email protected]) BORGATA O MA IA T A ESA D DI STURA

VI SSAIA You’ll find both at Smile V I A P I A N E Z Z A V I A T I C I N O CHI V I A A S S I S I V I A F O R L I ’ VIA M A SI ICHELE VI CORSO GIULIO CESARE VIA LAURO ROSSI FRASSATI VIA RENA VIA VEROLENGO A NT V E N E Z A VIA GOTTARDO V I A V E R O L E N G O A G.TARTINI ONIO VIBO’ Piazza Chiesa della Salute ROS VI TOP IN TOWN THE REGGE SABAUDE VIA CERESOLE 4 18 V AS I T R A D E L A PIAZZA Tree in Turin. E TE VIA VEROLENGO HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER N E ANCINA GHIRLANDAIO V I A S E M P I OV NI A E G O T T A R D O L PIAZZA Torinese CORSO VERCELLI THIA’ ENEZIA MONT N Parco della Conuenza V VIA ARCANGELO CORELLI SOFIA VIA VAL DELLA TORRE CORSO VIA BOCCARDO SA VIA VIA VITERBO VIA PIER LUIGI DA PALESTRINA Stories Parco Aurelio VIA VIA GASPARI SPONTINI Maria Granata ([email protected]) CORSO A S TA OS F A I V VIA GIOVENA Enjoy the city, starting Some of the best examples Peccei MEN AND IDEAS THAT VIA GIAMBATTISTA PERGOLE S O T T O HAVE MADE THE CITY GREAT PA S VIA GIOVANNI CRAVERO V AI P A I N E Z Z A S O CIGNA

D VI V I A F O R L I ’ CORSO MORTARA C O VIA VALPRATO VIA SAVERIO MERCADA O A ERRICO GI ALL YOU CAN DO LARGO PIAZZA N 40 SIGHTSEEINGVIA DEL RIDOT TO V I A V I A G O T T A R D O IN JUNE STRADELLA PIAZZA VIA CHERUBINI A OTTORINO Top events and from its main landmark of 17th and 18th century TRE SI T VIA CHERUBINI places to be RESPIGHI S E M P I O CUSTOMER SERVICES Chiesa del Santo Volto - CABINE CORSO POTENZA VIA LUIGI SALVATORE CHERUBINI VIA BORGARA C A VIA VALPRATO VIA VALPRATO VIA MONTANARO A DISCOVER CHINO V I N E C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A T V I A F R A N C E THE ALLURE A A T D O M

I & MUSEUMS OF PIEDMONT VIA ORVIETO Several destinations for an N Cristina Garbini ([email protected]) VIA CERVINO MEF Museo Ettore Fico out-of-town experience attractions. European architecture. Parco Dora Parrocchia E N I VIA TESSO A San Domenico Savio C O

VIA LEINI VIA CERVINO VIA ALESSANDRO CRUTO A B O L O G N C M I I PO In addition to a selection of rare and beautiful works, RELLA BARRIERA V A Savoy CORSOroyal VENEZIA residence for Teatro Monterosa Centro Piero A VIA BALTEA D O R A R I P A R I A VIA SOAN A VIA ERRICO PETRELLA PIAZZALE SUPPLEMENTO DI WHERE® MILAN R O S A della Francesca PIAZZA DELLA LUNGO DORA LIGURIA Stazione Torino Dora GTT VIA GIOVANNI PAISIELLO VIA MADDALENE Turin’s Royal Library (below) hosts severable priceless SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS V I A P CORSO VERCELLI VIA ALESSANDRO SCARLAT TI AUGUSTO CROCE DI MILANO O REGIO PARCO PIAZZA ROSTAGNI ROSSA REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 453, 19 JULY 2010 A Z Z E N A I P A I V centuries,GENERALE Villa della Regina RS Parco vittime del rogo nello stabilimento ThyssenKrupp ANTONIO C O R S O V I G E V A N O Giardini del E LLA CO manuscripts by Leonardo da Vinci, including his VIA PIETRO COSSA BALDISSERA Piazzale della CORSO MORTARA Parrocchia EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N. 2455 O C I G N A VIA CANDIA VIA GIORGIO GHEDINI Croce Rossa Maria Regina E N O I P M E S A I V Chiesa di San Gaetano da Thiene HOT DATES DISCOVERING PIEDMONT A NV I T O CON ECI C H I RSO GIULIO CESARE 8 20 C O UROS M A BRI PIAZZA CORSO SVIZZERA V AI S A NI CEC C O R S O V I G E V A N O Della Pace C O R S O U M B R I A FRANCESCO DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH COVER O VIA ERRICO PETR ‘Codex on the Flight of Birds’ (on the right), featuring CO is a baroque gem that CRISPI VIA SANTHIA’

SASC V AI D O VIA ADOLPHE DAUBRÉE T B O Piscina scolastica comunale E8 I A F R A N PIAZZA SA Museo Lavazza. V VIA his studies on flight, and 13 autograph sheets, This month’s round-up Langhe, Roero and Monferrato:SSINA GIOVANNI N PINEROLO E IA PIOS M PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA CORSO POTENZA V PALERMO BOTTESINI VIA BOLOGNA D O R A R I P A R I A E N VENO V IA A M IL C A R E P O N C H IE L L I you shouldn’t miss when NTE RO Ospedale Amedeo di Savoia IA I C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A S O C O O

V I A G R including his famous ‘Self-Portrait’ (above). VIA LIVORNO M LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) VIA GIOVANNI PACINI C MI VIA ANDRA CASTAGNA V IA VIA PINEROLO CO LARGO VIA B A of art exhibitions, music avant-garde wineries, world-class E IN A S C O L U N G O D O R A N A P O L I FRANCECO R O VIA ANTONELLO DA M ARCO © ROBERTO BIGANO - LEONARDO 3 BIBLIOTECA REALE DI TORINO © ROBERTO VIA CUNEO C O R S O N O V A R A VIA MUZIOVIA AOSTACLEMENTI www.museireali.beniculturali.it CIGNA S P VIA TREVISO visiting Turin. A D O R ARP I A RA I

E H C R A M O S R O C Parco Pubblico Pellerina E LUIGI DAMIANO Parco del Meisino Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, C O R S O O T TO N E R O S A I A LARGO VIA CUNEO R E G I O VIA PISTOIA VI BOLOGNA V I A C U N E O and local attractions.Mario Carrara cuisine and marvelous landscapes. A NV I T O CON ECI C H I CORSO VERCELLI RSO in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would VIA SONDRIO VIA CEVA VIA TOLLEGO CO LIVORNO VIA BRA A CORSO ENRICO GAMBA VI VIA CREMONA VIA FOSSANO A like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be CHIESA S T R A D A D E L F O R T NI O Stimmate di VIA CARMAGNOLA San Francesco D'Assisi CORSO APPIO CLAUDIO IELL VIA CAPUA V IA U R B IN O VIA NOVI V I A G I O V A N N I S E R V A I S B 44 ESSENTIALS VIA RUGGERO LEONCAVALLO published in the next issue. LARGO Parrocchia Gesù Operaio CORSO APPIO CLAUDIO I A V PALERMO VIA CEVA VIA GIOVANNI PACINI C O UROS M A BRI VIA BOLOGNA VIA DON GIOVANNI BOSCO V IA P E S A R O CORSO SVIZZERA RI VIA LODI VIA ANGELO SISMONDA C O R S O A P P I O C L A U D I O VIA AQUILA VIA PRINCIPESSA CLOTILDE Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A VIA BA TURIN. STORIES FASHION OUTLETS Information and tips V I A C O M O 12 CORSO LECCE 22 V I A S E R V A I S VIA TRIVERO L U N G O D O R A N A P O L I VIA ORNAVASSO VIA V IA C IR IE C O R S O B R E S C IA V V I A G I O V A N N I S E R V A I S A CORSO GIULIO CESARE P A A I I N O S S A T O R D N A S S E L A O S R O C VIA CHIVASSO information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any L PIAZZA CORSO PRINCIPEL ODDON V I A R O V I G O

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V IA M A T E R A VIA VIA MASSENA CA VIA FERDINANDO MAGELLANO VIA GIUSEPPE PIAZZI RLE V I A V E G L I A VIA GIORGIO BIDONE V IA A D A N E G R I LARGO VIA GIAN DOMENICO CASSINI SAN SALVARIO TIRRENO A CORSO RE UMBERTO CORSO RAFFAELL E V IA M O N F A L C O N E VIA OSOPPOGiardino VIA ALFONSO LAMARMORA Walter IA ORE V I A T I R R E N O I UR C O R S O C A N O N I C O G I U S E P P E A L L A M A N O Ferrarotti Giardino Francesca O I PIAZZA I A O R M Laura Morvillo Ospedale Umberto I di Torino NIZZA LF V G NA O URATI V PA I O M A R O STI C A B E Parco del Valentino VIA MICHELANGELO BUONARROTI O VI P I E T R CRI R Nizza CO A S CORSO GALILEO FERRARIS RSO C O R S O C A N O N I C O G I U S E P P E A L L A M A N O CORSO SIRACUSA O VI V I A T I R R E N O M A RAF E VIA SALUZZO N R CORSO FILIPPO T A FAEL S T R D. E L G E R B ID O I D C O LO VI D A GAETAN MA E Istituto Maria Consolatrice N I O DONIZET C O IA VIA GUIDO RENI VIA GORIZIA L A V O TI V IA B A R L E T T A VIA ROVERETO V IA M O N F A L C O N E VIA RICCIONE AR VIA FRANCESCO PETR Museo di

Giardino Cesare L U G Parrocchia Antropologia Criminale C O R S O D A N T E Santuario ARCA CORSO MONTE LUNGO Sacro Cuore di Gesù STO

A E R C A I V VIA TRIPOLI Valperga di Masino VIA LAZZARO SPALLANZANI VIA FRAN Borgo Medievale RNE V I A B A LT I M O R A ZZO CES CORSO ORBASSANO V IA A R Q U A T A CO PETRA A E del Valentino I RC Teatro Nuovo V VIA NIZZA VIA VI A PIAZZALE NCENZO MONTI

COSTANTINO V I A S A L U VIA SANTA RITA FRAN Parrocchia San Giorgio Martire VIA UGO FOSCOLO IL GRANDE CESC C O R S O S E B A S T O P O L I V IA B A R L E T T A C O R S O D A N T E A L I G H I E R I O EA PETRA CORSO LEPANTO VIA UGO FOSCOLO R O G I U R I A T RC RM A IE CORSO MASSIMO D’AZEGLIO CORSO FILIPPO TURATI O V AR I A P A L O VIA VINC PIAZZA A I A P V DE AMICIS VI EN ZO MO PIAZZA VIA ILARIONE PETITTI NTI SANTA RITA Giardino Dante Giorgio Anglesio C O R S O D A N T E A L I G H I E R I S T R . D E L G E R B I D O V I A B A LT I M O R A DA CASCIA VIA MARIO PAGANO V IA B A R L E T T A CORSO IV NOVEMBRE VIA TIZIANO VECELLIO VIA ILARIONE PETITTI Chiesa Parrocchiale Parco Cavalieri CORSO MONCALIERI 500 m CORSO BRAMANTE STINA S. Rita da Cascia di Vittorio Veneto V IA R O B E R T O A R D IG O CRI VIA CORREGGIO Ponte Isabella M A

DA VIA TIZIANO VECELLIO MARENCO

C O R S O S E B A S T O P O L I O TI Parco VIA ANTO VIA SALUZZO GERBIDO V I A F I L A D E L F I A MA T I Muratori NIO CA LIO ARL MASO GROSSI A VIA GORIZIA NOVA C E M VI L ABRERA O CCHE I I VIA IOTTO L VIA LUDOVICO ANTONIO MURATORI A RO G VIA T A VIA NIZZA G. CH A G VIA ANTONIO CANOVA D’AZEG O I VIA LEONARDO DA VINCI M E V L VIA BENVENUTO CELLINI VIA L I RLO A EA A G V I A B A LT I M O R A VIA VINCENZO STEFFENONE CORSO BRAMANTE IMO Parco Rignon C O S ORM R VIA

CORSO SIRACUSA A O I C VIA LUIGI FEDERICO MENABREA V 500 m V I A C R E A PO RSO MASS

CORSO UNIONEVIA TUNISI SOVIETICA V IA P A O L O G A ID A N O CO Carducci C O R S O B R A M A N T E VIA ARDUINO Molinette V I A F I L A D E L F I A

VIA TRIPOLI

CORSO GALILEO FERRARIS VIA GIORDANO BRUNO Stadio Olimpico Grande Torino di Torino Ponte Balbis

VIA GUIDO RENI CORSO ORBASSANO C O R S O S E B A S T O P O L I VIA CHISOLA I PIAZZA T V IA S A N M A R IN O T MUZIO VIA ABEGG O I SCEVOLA L V I A F I L A D E L F I A PIAZZA G Parrocchia Natale del Signore Ospedale O PITAGORA D BORGO VIA AL Molinette O AZZIO I R

MIRAFIORI NORD A V I A C R E A M

CHERASCO VIA AL

E PILONETTO AZZIO S T R . D E L P O R T O N E V I A G E N O V A A S U C A R I S O S R O C VIA

V I A T U N I S I VIA NIZZA L L

VIA GORIZIA I VIA ST ELLONE H

VIA THONON C A V I A F I L A D E L F I A

CORSO SPEZIA O

C O R S O C O S E N Z A VIA TRIPOLI VIA VARAZZE S C O R S O E . T A Z Z O L I R

V I A B U E N O S A I R E S Spezia O C CORSO SPEZIA V IA S A N M A R IN O

VIA BRONI

CORSO GIOVANNI AGNELLI VIA C.MARTINOTTI CORSO SPEZIA VIA VARAITA

CORSO ORBASSANO CORSO MONCALIERI CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICAV I A M O N T E V I D E O PIAZZA

VIA VENTIMIGLIA POLONIA V I A B U E N O S A I R E S Parrocchia VIA ARNALDO DA BRESCIA Madonna delle Rose VIA GIULIOEataly BIGLIERI Torino Cimitero Parco VIA PIETRO BAIARDI Ospedale Regina Margherita VIA ELLERO

VIA GIULIO BIGLIERI V I A G E N O V A

CORSO COSENZA V I A TA G G I A V I A A S U N C I O N S T R . D E L P O R T O N E VIA SAN REMO VIA VENTIMIGLIA V I A T U N I S I VIA GIULIO BIGLIERI VIA LAVAGNA VIA ZINO ZINI Pinacoteca Giovanni C O R S O E N R IC O T A Z Z O L I VIA e Marella Agnelli VIA NIZZA VIA GIORDANO BRUNO PROSPERO RICHELMY

CORSO ORBASSANO CORSO EUSEBIO GIAMBONE Lingotto CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA CAVORETTO LINGOTTO Passerella Olimpica Museo dell'Automobile di Torino

VIA SPOTORNO VIA GARESSIO Lingotto PO SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO VIA VADO

CORSO ORBASSANO

VIA MILLEFONTI V I A G E N O V A SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO Lingotto Fiere CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIAVIA VENTIMIGLIA MILLEFONTI

CORSO CORSICA SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO Fiat Chrysler Automobiles Giardino C O R S O L U IG I S E T T E M B R IN I CORSO CADUTI SUL LAVORO STRADA TORINO Giuseppe Levi Stazione Torino Lingotto Ex Area Fiat Avio Lubricanti CORSO MONCALIERI VIA PASSO BUOLE

NITÀ D'ITALIA NIZZA U

C O R S O T R A IA N O R S O CORSO GIOVANNI AGNELLI VIA PIO VII

MILLEFONTI CO Parco Giuseppe Di Vittorio

VIA PASSO BUOLE Torre Regione Piemonte

VIA SOMMARIVA Palavela

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIA NIZZA VIA PASSO BUOLE I R E I L A C N O M O S R O C

Parrocchia Assunzione VIA O. VIGLIANI di Maria Vergine Giardino Corpo VIA VINOVO Italiano di Liberazione

C O R S O T R A IA N O V I A G E N O V A

VIA O. VIGLIANI

VIA VENTIMIGLIA

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T MIRAFIORI SUD CORSO BENEDETTO CROCE Palazzo del Lavoro VIA PIO VII CORSO PIERO MARONCELLI

VIA O. VIGLIANI CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA

V I A O N O R A T O V I G L I A N I PIAZZA CORSO FRAT. ROSSELLI

BENGASI

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

M O T R A E L E U N A M E A I V P O

Parco Colonnetti S TRA D TONA OR I

E T S E I R T O S R O C

VIA SESTRIERE S A N G O N E

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

S A N G O N E BORGARETTO

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T

VIALE TORINO NICHELINO VIA TORINO

C O R S O T R EI S T E PO

VIA BOGINO MONCALIERI

VIA TORINO

VIALE TORINO STUPINIGI

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi Parrocchia di Stupinigi

500 m

Parco Naturale di Stupinigi [ SIGHTSEEING]

MORE AT PAGE 40 Top in town MAP PAGES 46-47 factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the 2 7 13 5 wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it hosts events and the famous rooftop test track. The old Carpano plants, lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. 10

MUSEO NAZIONALE DELL’AUTOMOBILE The Car Museum (MAUTO) was opened in 1960 and is one of the oldest car museums in the world. The semi-circular building overlooking the River Po acts as a prelude to the three floors of the collection featuring a spectacular layout designed by François Confinio, who also designed the exhibition space of the Museum LUCA SANTILLI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM MATEJ KASTELIC/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM MATEJ MARCO CRUPI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM GIMAS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM © © © © of Cinema. 11

151 15 9 ALLIANZ JUVENTUS STADIUM Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, this is the sixth largest stadium in Italy. It is owned by the Juventus Football Club whose home matches have been played here since 2011. An architectural symbol, it is one of the most avant- garde facilities in the world. The J-Museum, the official football museum of the ‘bianconero’ team is hosted inside the stadium. 12

BASILICA DI SUPERGA Situated on the hills surrounding Turin, it offers a breathtaking view. It was built as a thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from the French siege (1706) and designed by Filippo Juvarra. One of the most picturesque ways of CKTRAVELLING/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM PIO3/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM BORIS STROUJKO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, which © © © rattles the 3km up the hillside. 13

REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE MOLE ANTONELLIANA artifacts, from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. headquarters of the first Subalpine Senate. Its King Vittorio Amedeo II gifted it to his future VIA PO PROMENADE Located inside the Park of La Mandria, this is a A landmark building of Turin since 1889, it was The archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean- name refers to ‘Madame Royale’ Christine of bride in 1714. Don’t miss a visit to this A stroll beneath the typical Torinese porticoes in Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th purchased by the municipality who decided to François Champollion once said: ‘the road to France, who took up residence here in 1600. magnificent residence, distinguished by the via Po, packed with shops and cafés, is an century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo make it a monument to Italian unification. Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin’. 2 The view of the city from the Panoramic Tower remains of its original 18th century decorations absolute must. From here, you can access Piazza Emanuele II. Particularly worthy of note are the Standing at a height of 167.5m, at the time of its is spectacular. 4 and furnishings, and its Italianate gardens. Villa Vittorio Veneto, the largest square in the city. The Grand Gallery, the Chapel of St. Hubert, the construction it was the highest brick building in MUSEI REALI della Regina is a part of the circuit of the Royal square ends at the Vittorio Emanuele I bridge, Galleria di Diana, the 18th century Scuderie Europe. Built in an eclectic style, the Mole has a The residence of the Savoys until 1865, it is now PARCO DEL VALENTINO Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO which connects it to the square of the church of Juvarrine and the Citroniera, now used to host squat square base topped by a large dome with owned by the Italian government. The museum Located on the banks of the Po River, and world heritage site. 6 the Gran Madre di Dio (1830), renowned for its events. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal a spire. You can ascend to the panoramic tour comprises a 3km route spread over 30,000 spread over 550,000 sq.m., this is the city’s most imposing pantheon-like shape. 8 Residences of Turin and Piedmont. 14 observation platform either by elevator or on sq.m. and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. In 1563, popular park. Its interior houses numerous TEATRO REGIO foot by climbing its 573 steps. Since 2000, it has Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved the treasures including the Castello del Valentino, a The Regio is one of the most important Italian PIAZZA SAN CARLO PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI hosted the National Museum of Cinema. 1 capital of the duchy from Chambéry to Turin, UNESCO world heritage site and a part of the theatres on the European scene, offering an Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, it Built in Baroque style in 1729, and only 10km marking the beginning of a major urban circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and action-packed program of opera and ballet. It was commissioned by Marie Christine of France from Piazza Castello, with its French garden, MUSEO EGIZIO transformation and the enrichment of the Piedmont, the Medieval Village and Castle, and was designed by Filippo Juvarra and in true Parisian style with seemingly endless Stupinigi was the royal family’s favourite place Founded in 1824, Turin’s Egyptian Museum is dynastic collections, which now include artifacts the Botanical Gardens (1729). 5 inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, porticoes housing fashion boutiques, and an for celebrations and events. At the beginning of the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and from the prehistoric era to the present time. 3 and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo equestrian statue - the ‘Caval d’Brons’ – of Duke the 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy the second in terms of the value and quality of VILLA DELLA REGINA Mollino, the only part of the original building Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre. 9 took up permanent residence here. In 1919, its treasures outside of Cairo. In 2006, during PALAZZO MADAMA The summer country residence of the House of that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO Stupinigi became the headquarters of the Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum was Situated in the centre of piazza Castello, it has Savoy, it was built at the beginning of the 17th world heritage site. Its unusual gate, named LINGOTTO Furniture Museum. It is a part of the circuit of the re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer always been a reference point in the city, from century as a court vineyard. It became known as ‘Odissea Musicale’ (Musical Odyssey) is by This complex of buildings built in 1916, based Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a Dante Ferretti. It houses more than 37,000 Roman times to 1848, when it became the Villa della Regina (literally the Queen’s Villa) when Umberto Mastroianni. 7 on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT UNESCO world heritage site. 15

4 WHERE TURIN I JUNE 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 5 | WHERE NOW LANDMARK LA VENARIA REALE Majestic Residence − Located inside the Park of La Mandria, in the historic centre of the town of Venaria, the Reggia di Venaria Reale is a Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele II. − This grandiose estate lying on the outskirts of Turin comprises 80,000 square metres of buildings which combine to make up the Reggia and 60 hectares of Gardens, a masterpiece of architecture and landscaping, included in the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1997. − This monumental building boasts several of the highest expressions of universal Baroque: the enchanting Hall of Diana designed by Amedeo di Castellamonte, the breathtaking Great Gallery and the solemn Chapel of Saint Hubert, the grandiose complex of the Juvarra Stables, designed by Filippo Juvarra in the 18th century, ornate decorations and the spectacular Fountain of the Stag in the Court of Honour. These provide a unique setting for the Theatre of History and Magnificence, the permanent display devoted to the House of Savoy, that runs from the basement level to the piano nobile of the Reggia. − Inside the Reggia di Venaria Reale, a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, multimedia installations enable visitors to reconstruct the history of court life, while the apartments of King Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoy and his wife Rosa Vercellana, remodelled in the adjacent Castello della Mandria, are open for public viewing, as is the room hosting the collection of royal jewels. − On the last floor of the palace, above the monumental corridor known as the Galleria di Diana, discerning diners can enjoy a delightful meal at the Dolce Stil Novo alla Reggia, the Reggia’s Michelin-starred restaurant.

www.lavenaria.it/en

6 WHERE TURIN I JUNE 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 7 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES MORE ON WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/WHAT-TO-DO-TURIN JUNE MOTOR SHOW

CAR INVASION! ◀ Over 700,000 international visitors, 1,000 supercars and 19 23 45 exhibitors including car JUNE manufacturers and designers, are some of the figures for the last edition of ‘Parco Valentino’. This Motor Show boasts a unique formula: free admission, an outdoor display of cars along the HOT DATESWhether it’s discovering the events avenues of the city’s magnificent park, extended opening hours until midnight and numerous events, featuring supercars and celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or classic cars parading through the streets of Turin. visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this The Gran Finale, held on the morning of 23 June, features a display month’s unmissable dates. of the cars that will be driven by 150 participating teams from Piazza Vittorio Veneto to the Reggia di Venaria, passing through the streets BY ELENA PEVERATA of the centre.

Parco Valentino - Salone Auto Torino 2019 Parco del Valentino and other places across the city www.parcovalentino.com

8 WHERE TURIN I MAYJUNE 2019 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 9 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES MORE ON WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/WHAT-TO-DO-TURIN

LEONARDO FOOD

SELF PORTRAIT OF A GENIUS ► Over fifty drawings tell the story of Leonardo da Vinci’s research in science and art. The exhibition 15 14 at the Royal Museums focuses on the sheets APRIL JULY housed in Turin’s Royal Library, and includes thirteen drawings, his better known Codex on the flight of birds, and his extraordinary ‘Portrait of an Old Man’, believed to be a self-portrait. The exhibition also showcases works by several renowned masters who were Leonardo’s contemporaries including Andrea del Verrocchio, Pollaiolo, Bramante, Michelangelo and Raphael.

Leonardo da Vinci. Drawing the future Musei Reali. Piazzetta Reale, 1 www.mostraleonardo.it © DURANTE DANIELE

THE CRADLE OF ESPRESSO ART ▲ Did you know that espresso coffee was MEGAPARTY invented in Turin? So it’s not surprising that FROM THE 8 9 ‘Turin Coffee’, the first festival dedicated METAPHYSICAL THE REGGIA JUNE to high-end coffee has been organized TO POST- here. The event, a combination of culture 14 DRESSES IN WHITE 15 MODERNISM and coffee tastings, is promoted by three Torinese brands of JULY ◄ Set against the striking backdrop excellence: Lavazza, Caffè Vergnano and Costadoro. The Salone APRIL ▲ The exhibition at GAM 7 of the Reggia di Venaria, the city titled “Back to the Future. Internazionale del Caffè, featuring events, coffee tastings, JUNE celebrates the arrival of spring with seminars, presentations by small local coffee producers and Neo-Metaphysical and Contemporary Art’ showcases the Neo- Royal White 2019, a spectacular event, samplings of ‘starred’, coffee-based dishes, will be held in piazza Metaphysical works of renowned Italian artist Giorgio de Chirico featuring performances, concerts and the DJ Set-Special Carlo Alberto, one of the historic centre’s most beautiful squares. alongside those of contemporary artists, who drew inspiration from White Show until late at night. The extravaganza will be his paintings from the 1960s to the era of Pop Art. Seventy works held both in the Galleria di Diana, and on the palace’s Turin Coffee 2019 of art explore de Chirico’s last creative period, a prelude to post- beautiful summer terraces. Dress code? All white, with an Piazza Carlo Alberto - www.turincoffee.it modernism in the 1980s, which influenced not only the visual arts, emphasis on elegance and originality. Please note: minors but also literature, films and even videogames and video clips. under the age of 18 are not admitted. Giorgio de Chirico. Back to the Future Royal White 2019 - 8pm-3am ISLAMIC WORLD Neo-Metaphysics and Contemporary Reggia di Venaria Reale. GAM - Galleria d’Arte Moderna. Via Magenta, 31 Piazza della Repubblica, 4 - Venaria Reale (TO) LIFE FLOWS www.gamtorino.it www.royalevents.fun

© DAVIDE DUSNASCO © DAVIDE THROUGH WATER ◄ Water, one of the PHOTOGRAPHY 15 1 cornerstones of human TRADITIONS APRIL SEPTEMBER existence, creates an ancient, COMBINING THE intimate bond with the Islamic SACRED WITH world. This blockbuster exhibition uses images, artifacts, books and miniatures, THE PROFANE 14 6 From 14 June to 6 January, the spaces LONG LIVE technology and everyday life to tell the JUNE JANUARY of the Orangerie of the Juvarra story of the many different uses of water SAN GIOVANNI 2019 2020 Stables at the Reggia di Venaria will in Islamic culture, and the manifestation of 23 24 ► On Sunday 23 June host a large monographic exhibition JUNE its meanings in Islamic art, architecture and and Monday 24 June, the by David LaChapelle, one of America’s most celebrated and handicrafts. The display is enhanced with the squares and streets of the irreverent contemporary photographers. In addition to his most sound and movement of water, immersing centre will host numerous cultural, sporting and musical events to famous images, the exhibition will feature a private gallery of visitors in a landscape of sonic and celebrate San Giovanni, the patron saint of Turin. The traditional portraits of his best friends, including Michael and Janet Jackson, visual harmony. celebration – on the afternoon and evening of 23 June – will include Hillary Clinton, Madonna, Uma Thurman and David Bowie, plus more a historic costumed parade, followed by the famous ‘Farò’ (bonfire Drop by Drop Life Falls from the Sky. recent photographs, that are the result of research that helped him in Piedmontese dialect). The celebrations will end on the evening Water, Islam and Art. develop a more private, philosophical style. of 24 June with a spectacular performance of luminous drones. MAO - Museo d’Arte Orientale. David Lachapelle. Divine Acts. Ask your concierge for more info. Via San Domenico, 9 Reggia di Venaria, Citroniera delle Scuderie Juvarriane. www.maotorino.it Festa di San Giovanni 2019 Piazza della Repubblica, 4 - La Venaria Reale

Various locations across the city © GIANLUCA PLATANIA www.lavenaria.it

10 WHERE TURIN I JUNE 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 11 WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS

As far as large companies, daily throughout the world. Since 1927, the shadow of the Mole in 1921, and after a between the 1960s and 1970s. Agnelli celebratory museums, art the company known as “Lavazza” has been short but fruitful military career, Gianni Agnelli was also responsible for the growth and Turin. Stories of galleries and even restaurants synonymous with research and innovation in was renowned as a key figure - both in Italy re-launch of two well-known automotive are concerned, several significant the world of coffee. After the Second World and abroad - by developing and growing brands: Ferrari and Lancia. The former, War, it became one of the first companies FIAT, Italy’s largest automotive company, which Agnelli bought in 1969, resumed its Torinese entrepreneurs have in the world to develop special packaging which was founded by his grandfather in domination of Formula One racing, while the made their mark in the city. dedicated to the export and sale of coffee, 1899. Agnelli took over the company in the latter, which FIAT acquired in 1970, became using individual packs, distinguished by a 1960s, as its president from 1966 to 1996. It a leader in the world of rallies and luxury Where Turin takes you on a tour men, ideas logo. In the 1950s, Lavazza revolutionized was thanks to Agnelli’s entrepreneurial spirit utilitarian cars. In order to trace the footsteps to discover the key players in the the coffee industry with the invention of the that the production and sale of small and of Avvocato Agnelli’s, you’ll want to admire history of the city and the places traditional vacuum-sealed tin, an item that medium-sized utilitarian vehicles boomed the former FIAT factories, in particular, the is still used today to preserve the aroma of that were dearest to their hearts. the coffee. Lavazza was also the first brand and industry BY GIULIA MINERO to use innovative forms of communication, including collectible stickers and iconic Nuvola Lavazza commercials, designed to educate consumers about coffee and, in more recent times, important campaigns to raise awareness about safeguarding the planet. Today, several key places in Turin that reference Lavazza’s history are still visible. These include the

production hub in Settimo Torinese, © ARCHIVIO FOTOGRAFICO FIAT one of the largest production facilities in Europe, and the headquarters of the first Lavazza grocery store, which now houses a bar with a restaurant, aptly named San Tommaso 10. Since 2018, the entire Lavazza universe has been housed in a complex called Nuvola (meaning cloud), a vast space designed by Cino Zucchi to redevelop the Gianni Agnelli at the Aurora area and to gather together the test track atop the brand’s past and present under one roof. Lingotto building at The area, which can be accessed from a Fiat headquarters. green public square, houses the Lavazza Turin, 1967. headquarters, an old basilica, the ‘La Centrale’ events space, a restaurant, whose name ‘Condividere’ (‘share’ in English) describes its underlying philosophy (www.condividere. com), a Bistrot, the headquarters of IAAD- Institute of Applied Art and Design, and a Museum. The latter allows visitors to discover the universe of coffee, its rituals and the history of Lavazza’s success in the world of communications (www.lavazza.com). Additionally, on 8 and 9 June, those wishing to have a full immersion into the world of coffee, should head to Turin Coffee 2019, a festival dedicated to high-end coffee brands © ANDREA GUERMANI founded in the shadow of the Mole.

he stories of illustrious design scene, including Giugiaro, Bertone Tommaso, just steps from Piazza Castello. GIANNI AGNELLI, entrepreneurs, pioneers of and Pininfarina, are prime examples of this. From the beginning, his small store promised A CAPTAIN OF INDUSTRY their time, and creators of Where Turin pays tribute to Turin’s most to be different from all the other numerous When describing Torinese industry, it’s some of Italy’s most famous iconic companies by looking at their history grocery stores in the city. It was here that imperative to mention Giovanni Agnelli, companies, both past and and the key figures who made them so Luigi Lavazza began mixing different coffee better known as Gianni, one of the most present, are interwoven successful. varieties to create increasingly innovative important figures of 20th century Italian Twith the history of the city of Turin. These flavours, tailored to suit his customers’ and Torinese enterprise. Like his grandfather entrepreneurs often shaped Turin in their COFFEE ACCORDING tastes. This concept, thought to be the first Senator Giovanni Agnelli, ‘L’ Avvocato’ (the own image. FIAT (now FCA), Lavazza, Lancia, TO LAVAZZA in modern day history, resulted in what is lawyer), a nickname by which he was known Olivetti, Iveco, Martini&Rossi and Ferrero, In 1895 Turin-born Luigi Lavazza opened now known as blended coffee, the main universally, Gianni was appointed a Senator Lavazza Museum and several prominent names on the Italian his first Lavazza grocer’s shop in via San ingredient of every cup of coffee consumed for Life of the Italian Republic in 1991. Born in

12 WHERE TURIN I JUNE 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 13 WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS

little outside Turin, the company now known as Martini, Sola e C.ia took over the reins of Michel Re Agnelli e Baudino - ‘Distilleria Nazionale da spirito di vino all’uso di Francia’,

CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM giving birth to the first production facility © of Vermouth, a distillate made from wine aromatized with herbs which, in the space of a few years, would become the symbol of the Torinese aperitivo. However, like its name, it owes its success to two significant figures, the Florentine Alessandro Martini and Luigi Rossi, the herbalist and the distiller who invented the original red Casa Martini Vermouth recipe. Their work soon bore fruit, including a license from the Royal House of Savoy, followed by numerous awards from international trade fairs. Throughout the 20th century, the success of the brand spread like wildfire, both in Italy and abroad, and reached Roof meeting room know as “La Bolla” and helipad at an increasingly wide audience thanks to Lingotto conference centre designed by Renzo Piano advertising campaigns, billboards and slogans curated by renowned artists, both past and present, including Marcello Dudovich, Mirafiori production hub, only visible from Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli Armando Testa and Andy Warhol. Today, the outside, where historic cars like the visitors can delve into company’s fascinating Fiat 1100 or, in more recently, cars carrying history at Casa Martini, where the brand’s the Abarth trademark were manufactured. original headquarters are still located. This Today, the Mirafiori headquarters host the imposing building can be accessed in just Fiat Style Centre. To celebrate Gianni and 20 minutes from Turin, and comprises 8 his wife Marella’s love of art, the top floor spaces: the first Terrazza Martini in the of the Lingotto production complex now world, one of the favourite haunts of aperitivo houses the Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella aficionados, a lounge bar, a botanical room, Agnelli where you can admire more than where the top-secret ingredients of Vermouth 25 works of art - a part of the bequest of the are safeguarded, the old laboratory, a Bar Agnelli family’s private collection - including Academy where you can discover the secrets sculptures by Canova and paintings by Wine History Museum at Casa Martini of mixology, the Wine History Museum and Renoir, Manet, Matisse and Picasso. You the Mondo Martini Gallery, a must-visit can also access the old rooftop test track, space documenting the history of the images which can be visited entirely on foot (www. that made Martini&Rossi an international icon pinacoteca-agnelli.it). Among the places most in the most diverse sectors (www.martini.com widely visited by Gianni Agnelli, the Stadio – www.visitcasamartini.com). delle Alpi, on whose foundations the Allianz © AFINZI_PROEDIMEDIA Juventus Stadium (www.juventus.com) now stands, is particularly noteworthy. Between What would the world be without Nutella? 1947 and 1954, Agnelli was the President of Juventus, Turin’s football team, and he Everyone knows Nutella, but few people know that the story CASA MARTINI EXPERIENCE remained deeply attached to the team until of the world’s best-loved creamy chocolate hazelnut spread After touring the Wine History his death. began in Piedmont, in the city of Alba, thanks to the Ferrero Museum, vermouth devotees family. During the Second World War, cocoa was one of the first accessing this space will have a chance MARTINI&ROSSI, commodities to be rationed. However, this didn’t discourage to gain insight into the history of the THE KING OF VERMOUTH Pietro Ferrero, who decided to substitute it with a sweet paste drink and learn the basics involved in its Nowadays, the name Martini is internationally made with hazelnuts which were plentiful in the region. preparation – but not its secret ingredients associated with the jet-set, sport, successful Ferrero’s creation began life as a solid block called pasta – thanks to mixology courses like ‘Make advertising campaigns featuring sexy gianduja, which could be sliced and served on bread. A few Your Own Vermouth’ and ‘Martini Cocktail actor George Clooney sipping a cocktail, years later, it was transformed from a solid block into a creamy, Experiences’. Every second Saturday of the pronouncing the famous ‘No Martini, no spreadable treat called SuperCrema, the forerunner of our month, subject to booking, guests, led by party’ slogan and, above all, the drink known Nutella. So where does this iconic name come from? It’s easy! In expert bartenders and brand ambassadors, as Vermouth. In order to understand the 1964, Michele Ferrero, Pietro’s son, coined the word Nutella a can have fun experimenting with a range close relationship between the brand and combination of the English word ‘nut’, referencing the nuts used to make it, of aromatic flavours to create their own the city of Turin, take a trip back to the year and the Latina suffix for sweet - ‘ella’. The rest is history. (www.ferrero.it/nutella) bespoke vermouth, or learn how to mix

1863. In this year, in Pessione di Chieri, just a © ANDREA GUERMANI iconic Martini-based cocktails.

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16 WHERE TURIN I JUNE 2019 WHERE NOW | AROUND THE CORNER The Regge Sabaude

In addition to offering an overview of olden-day court life, the Regge Sabaude testifies to the modern history of Piedmont and Italy. BY GIULIA MINERO

he royal residences are easily of work by several prominent architects of and is only 10km as the crow flies from accessible by bus or car from the era, including Amedeo di Castellamonte, Piazza Castello. Turin, and are among some of Michelangelo Garove and lastly Filippo In addition to being used for long hunting the best-preserved examples Juvarra, who designed many of its most expeditions in the company of members of 17th and 18th century beautiful and widely photographed spaces, of the local aristocracy, Stupinigi was often European architecture. They including the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of chosen by members of the Savoy household are a living testimony to the prestige of the Saint Hubert and the imposing 18th-century for celebrations and dynastic weddings. T th local monarchy, the Savoy family, the first complexes of the Juvarra Stables and the At the beginning of the 20 century, Queen kings of unified Italy. In addition to Castello Citroniera (Orangerie), now used to host Margherita of Savoy took up permanent del Valentino and Villa della Regina (see Top exhibitions and events. residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became the in Town), the favourite city-based residences Inside the Reggia di Venaria Reale, multimedia headquarters of the Furniture Museum, of duchesses and princesses, and the installations enable visitors to reconstruct the and a space for events and concerts. In Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi MARY416/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM fortress of Castello di Moncalieri, the Regge history of court life, while the apartments of addition to its original furnishings and © Sabaude complex, listed as a UNESCO World King Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoy and his wife paintings, the museum hosts several into an aristocratic residence, and enlarged Heritage site in 1997, includes hunting Rosa Vercellana, remodelled in the adjacent masterpieces of cabinetry. with the addition of a wing known as lodges and country residences, embellished Castello della Mandria, are open for public The lodge’s beautifully manicured French the Manica Lunga, with the ducal with gardens that reflect the sophistication viewing, as is the room hosting the collection gardens and internal spaces are open for picture gallery. Its imposing spaces are of courtly life. of royal jewels. On the last floor of the palace, public viewing, while its historic park, a part now the headquarters of a Museum of above the monumental corridor known as of the hunting reserve, is closed to the Contemporary Art, which also hosts REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE the Galleria di Diana, discerning diners can public www.ordinemauriziano.it temporary exhibitions. Located inside the Park of La Mandria, enjoy a delightful meal at the Dolce Stil The courtyard of the castle is also home in the historic centre of the town of Venaria, Novo alla Reggia, the Reggia’s Michelin- CASTELLO DI RIVOLI to Combal.Zero, a contemporary starred the Reggia di Venaria Reale is a Baroque-style starred restaurant. www.lavenaria.it Established as a military fortress in 1247, the restaurant whose panoramic glass walls offer complex built in the mid-17th century as a Rivoli Castle was the first residence of the glorious views across the countryside as well glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI Savoy duchy. as the surrounding castle. II. Its present-day appearance is the result Stupinigi was built in Baroque style in 1729, During the 17th century, it was converted www.castellodirivoli.org

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ©

Reggia di Venaria Reale CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM PIO3/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ©

Reggia di Venaria Reale © Chapel of Saint Hubert Castello di Rivoli (Manica Lunga) Castello di Rivoli OLGYSHA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ©

18 WHERE TURIN I JUNE 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 19 WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

artists, were either used to store bottles of wine, or as pantries, because the temperature inside them remains constant. Several of these old Discovering Piedmont ‘infernot’ are open for public viewing, especially during the ‘vendemmia’ (grape harvest) or on special occasions (www.ecomuseopietracantoni. it). If you feel like sampling some wine, you’ll be spoilt for choice. Although the majority of local wines are red and full-bodied, like Barbera,

MIKEDOTTA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Grignolino and Freisa, you’ll also find a good © selection of whites, including Moscato. An absolute ‘must’ for wine connoisseurs visiting the area is the Enoteca Regionale di Vignale Monferrato. Located in a magnificent 17th century ‘palazzo’, the Enoteca is a great place to taste and purchase some of the area’s best local wines (www.enotecadelmonferrato.it).

ROERO Roero is situated in the northeastern part of the province of Cuneo, to the left of the Tanaro river. Like the neighbouring Langhe, this area is renowned for its enogastronomic and Historic wine cellar in Langhe cultural offerings. Among its castles, the Castle of Govone is particularly noteworthy. The castle is located in the province of are its numerous castles, including that of castellodiserralunga.it). After the long walk up Cuneo and was formerly one of the royal Grinzane Cavour. Built in the 13th century to the castle, take a break and treat yourself residences of the House of Savoy and currently home to the headquarters of the to a delicious gourmet meal at the Da Guido (www.castellorealedigovone.it). Located just ‘Cavour Regional Enoteca’, the castle, in addition restaurant located in the nature reserve of a short distance from Alba, the Castle of to stocking several of the region’s finest Doc Fontanafredda (www.guidoristorante.it). Monticello is one of the most imposing and and Docg wines, also hosts the interesting best-preserved medieval buildings in the area Langhe Museum (www.castellogrinzane. MONFERRATO owing to the fact that since 1372 it has been com). Other must-sees include the Castle of Stretching southwards, as far as the foot of owned and inhabited by the Roero family of Barolo and its surrounding town, which gives the Ligurian Appenines, the Monferrato area Monticello (www.roerodimonticello.it). There’s its name to the most famous Italian red wine occupies a fertile tract of terrain between the nothing that says ‘royal highness’ more than a and is thought to date back to mediaeval times. provinces of Alessandria and Asti. In addition castle. Experience what it feels like to be a prince STEVANZZ/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM © The town is home to WiMu, a unique wine to numerous historic, cultural and outdoor or princess for one night and stay at the Castle museum that takes visitors on an immersive activities, Monferrato is renowned for its of Guarene, an important stopover on the journey through the history of viticulture via gastronomic specialties. Nature, culture, art and Piedmontese Baroque itinerary which also hosts Avant-garde wineries, a legacy light, film and installations. The museum is religion combine in a walk that takes visitors a hotel belonging to the Relais&Châteaux chain his is UNESCO’s official reason of changing colours and softly rolling hills. set over three floors of the village’s stunning on a journey to discover the Nature Park of (www.castellodiguarene.com). of world-class cuisine and for adding the wine-growing Although geographically the Langhe, Roero medieval castle, and the tour includes a visit to the Sacro Monte di Crea, in the province of For real foodies, an absolute must is the famous marvelous landscapes. All of regions of the Langhe- and Monferrato are neighbouring regions, the building’s panoramic terrace and its ancient Alessandria, a real feat of architectural design sausage of Bra, a delectable product made from these things have earned the Roero and Monferrato to its they all have different morphologies, and wine cellars (www.wimubarolo.it). After visiting that encompasses Mount Crea and its sanctuary, lean beef and bacon. Since it requires hardly world heritage list in 2014. “An cultural characteristics. The region’s varied the museum in Barolo, stop in the village of which in turn, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. any ageing, it’s eaten fresh year-round and areas of the Langhe, Roero and exceptional living testimony to landscape provides fertile soil for an impressive La Morra, better known as ‘the terrace of the If you prefer a historical visit to an excursion, traditionally served raw, usually as an antipasto, Monferrato UNESCO World Tthe historical tradition of grape growing and array of local specialties: from superlative wine, Langhe’ thanks to its spectacular views, and don’t miss the Eco Museum of ‘Pietra da or cooked in a sauce that is used to dress ‘tajarin’ Heritage status, resulting in winemaking processes, of a social context, to the prized white truffles of Alba, porcini head to Massimo Camia’s starred restaurant for Cantone’ – a type of sandstone only found in this (typically fresh Piedmontese pasta) or polenta and a rural economy based on viticulture. The mushrooms and IGP hazelnuts. Located just a fabulous gourmet meal (www.massimocamia. area – in Cella Monte. In addition to informing (www.salsicciadibra.it). an elite tourist destination. vineyards of the Langhe-Roero and Monferrato an hour’s drive from Turin, these regions can be it). In addition to other specialties, the area is visitors about the history, landscapes and art Only a few kilometers from Bra, a trip to the BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI are an outstanding example of man’s interaction accessed by car (several of the larger centres can renowned for its famous three-lobed hazelnut, of Monferrato, the museum also organizes architectural complex of the Agenzia di Pollenzo with his natural surroundings.” also be reached by train). Other options include boasting ‘Protected Geographical Indication’ initiatives and events targeted at highlighting is well worth your time. Built in 1833, as a country This area is protected as a ‘cultural heritage’ one of the many organized wine and tasting status and used to make various sweet treats. the historical characteristics of the place. For residence for the House of Savoy, it now hosts which is symbolic, because man has managed tours on offer. Ask your concierge. If you want to purchase these tantalizing some years now, the museum has undertaken the first University of Gastronomic Sciences to shape it, giving it the unique characteristics specialties and see how they’re made, visit the arduous but worthwhile task of taking an in the world. This university was founded that it boasts today. THE LANGHE Giovanni Cogno’s artisanal workshop (www. inventory of the ‘infernot’ in the area. ’Infernot’ and promoted by the international Slow In this area, the vineyards of several of the The Langhe are situated between the Tanaro giovannicogno.it). Lastly, an absolute ‘must’ for are dark, airless underground spaces, carved out Food association, which studies, protects and world’s most famous wines, including Barolo, River and Liguria, between the provinces lovers of medieval history and architecture is in stone, located beneath houses and cellars that, disseminates the agricultural and enogastromic Barbaresco, Asti Spumante and Barbera, of Asti and Cuneo. Particularly noteworthy a visit to the Castle of Serralunga d’Alba, a in some instances, are real underground tunnels. traditions of countries worldwide stretch as far as the eye can see, in a display among the area’s many tourist attractions beautifully preserved Gothic stronghold (www. These works of arts, carved and modeled by (www.agenziadipollenzo.com).

20 WHERE TURIN I JUNE 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 21 [ DAILY TOURS ] Fashion outlets

Not far from Turin, in Piedmont, don’t miss a trip to these shopping destinations offering discounts all year-round. LUGANO MENDRISIO BERGAMO BRESCIA Vicolungo NOVARA The Style Outlets TRIESTE ? MILANO Torino ? Outlet Village TORINO ALESSANDRIA ? PIACENZA Torino Outlet Village Vicolungo The Style Outlets BOLOGNA MAR ? GENOVASerravalle ADRIATICO Designer Outlet Mondovicino Outlet Village THE APPENNINI RIMINI MAR LIGURE MOUNTAIN RIDGE PISA VENTIMIGLIA FIRENZE

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PERUGIA TORINO OUTLET VILLAGE VICOLUNGO THE STYLE SERRAVALLE DESIGNER MONDOVICINO OUTLET Torino Outlet Village is an elegant OUTLETS OUTLET VILLAGE and relaxing place to spend a Situated 40 minutes from Turin, in The largest Designer Outlet in Situated 1 hour from Turin, in the province of Novara, this is the Europe, McArthurGlen Serravalle the province of Cuneo, it offers day’s shopping, thanks also to PESCARA top-end restaurants and services CORSICAideal place to spend an exciting is located 90 minutes away from a unique shopping experience for families. Open 7 days a day’s tour where shopping, Turin’s city center. Its beautiful combining the appeal of the week, 10am-8pm (Sat, Sun and entertainment and relaxation setting combines all the appeal of fashion brands with the beauties festivities 10am-9pm). combine to satisfy all desires. Open luxury designerROMA brands with the of the environment (between • WHERE: at just 15 minutes from 7 days a week from 10 am to 8 pm. beauties of the surrounding area. the Langhe in Piedmont and the the centre of Turin, 30 minutes • WHERE: take the A4MAR Torino- TIRRENO• WHERE: take the A21 and the Ligurian coast). Open 7 days a from the main cities in Piedmont Milano motorway and exit at A26 motorways and exit to Novi week from 10 am to 8 pm. and 75 minutes from Milan, near Biandrate Vicolungo. Daily shuttle Ligure. From the railway stations • WHERE: take the A6 Torino- NAPOLI the exits from the A4 and A5 service is available from Milan. of Arquata Scrivia, Serravalle Savona motorway and exit at motorways, the Outlet is easy to Departure from Turin - Piazza Scrivia and Novi Ligure, you can Mondovì. Free shuttle service is reach at Settimo Torinese. Daily Carlo Felice, 63 (in front of Porta catch a shuttle bus running every available from Turin, departure shuttle bus service from the Nuova train station) at 10am. For day from 9am to 8.20pm. from Turin (Corso Vittorio city centre and a weekly service information and reservation: 02 • WHAT: a unique shopping Emanuele II corner of via Sacchi) from the main tourist resorts inSARDEGNA 867131 www.zaniviaggi.it. experience with 300 of your at 9.15am, return at 4.50pm Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta. • WHAT: 150 prestigious designer favourite designer brands – from the outlet to Turin. For • WHAT: a must for all shopping stores – including Armani, Missoni, Gucci, Dolce&Gabbana, Hugo information and reservation: 011 lovers, Torino Outlet Village offers Trussardi, Tommy Hilfiger, Cavalli, Boss, Bluemarine, Versace, La 19704670 www.zalunviaggi.com. 90 stores (Armani, Coach, Gucci, Calvin Klein and Twin Set – Perla, Pollini, Roberto Cavalli, • WHAT: over 90 prestigious La Perla, Michael Kors, Guess, offering clothing for the whole Brooks Brothers, Fratelli Rossetti, designer stores – including a Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger and family, sportswear, homeware and Casadei and many more… – Adidas, Alviero Martini 1 Classe, more) specializing in clothing, beauty products at discounted for up to 30-70% less all year Enrico Coveri, Fratelli Rossetti, accessories and footwear, prices of up to 70% all year round. round. Multiple services include Kappa and Liu.Jo Uomo – offering household articles, sport and • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: Vicolungo free Wifi, multilingual staff, a clothing for men, women and personal care under top Italian The Style Outlets also hosts art children’s playground, café and children, sportswear, homeware and international labels, and with exhibitions, events and other restaurants for a perfect shopping and beauty products at discounts of up to 70% all year- initiatives for a enjoyable day’s experience at unbelievable prices! discounted prices of up to 70% all round. www.torinooutletvillage.com outing. www.thestyleoutlets.it McArthurGlen.it/Serravalle year round. www.mondovicino.it

22 WHERE TURIN I JUNE 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 23 SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN ACCESSORIES Ombrellificio Torinese W The Guidelines M Located in the ancient Barriera di Milano district, H E O Atelier Nina Tauro this artisanal workshop has created bespoke R C This directory, grouped by category, is a list of E . T E R Established in 2006 in the vibrant San Salvario umbrellas since 1931. In his shop, Carlo, the R A V E L establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. district, this workshop produces a variety of hat fifth generation of the founding family, makes styles, including unique, handmade models in numerous models, sewing the rib tips by hand MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold fabric, felt, leather and crochet. All materials are and assembling the multi-coloured fabrics and at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the carefully selected, with a particular focus on quality. materials. Customers can personalize their own coordinates on the street map (pages 46-47). Inserts and details, including flowers, buckles, lace umbrellas, choosing from different fabrics, and trimmings, are prevalently vintage. In addition embroidery, shafts and edgings. The handles in SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from to winning the ‘Eccellenza Artigiana’ award from acacia or transparent resin can be filled with copper 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take Piedmont in 2009, in 2010 the Atelier was awarded threads, shells, ribbons or dried flowers… a real the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed the Slow Fashion registered trademark by CNA Turin sartorial, tailor-made umbrella. Open Mon, Wed, Fri on Sundays (except those located in central Turin) which guarantees 100% Made in Italy quality and 9.30am-6pm; Tues 9.30am-12noon/2pm-6pm; Thurs and on Monday mornings. workmanship. The Atelier also creates made-to-order by appointment only; Sat 8am-12noon. Ask your concierge. hats for brides and special occasions. Open Tues-Sat www.ombrelli.it. Via Sesia, 23/b. T: 011 852104. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is 11am-1pm/4pm-8pm. Via S. Anselmo, 26/C. Off Map Off Map generally included in the price of goods.

TAX-FREE SHOPPING » By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: [email protected]

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By June 2018, more than 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 10,000 merchants are located in Turin. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as Rinascente department stores, McArthurGlen Designer Outlets, SINA hotels, Aspesi fashion boutiques, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders.

DINING Not just Desert Boots Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the Good news for men and women in search of footwear, combining a captivating design with optimum price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as wearability. Clarks has opened its first standalone store in Turin. By Giulia Minero a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge Not just shopping at corresponding to the cost of the service and urin’s summer shopping scene has been of wood surfaces, pastel shades and carefully bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, Vicolungo The Style Outlets semiformal clothing is usually considered de enriched by a new arrival. Inspired by studied lighting. Boasting 150 boutiques and more than 300 Italian and international brands, Vicolungo rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars T the recent opening of a store in Genoa, In addition to Clark’s most popular styles, are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ The Style Outlets offers a shopping experience that combines quality with value for British footwear brand Clarks has opened its including its Original collections or iconic area is specifically offered. money thanks to year-round discounts of 30%-70% off the retail price. The centre also first standalone store in Turin, in the shadow Desert Boots, customers will find all the new Set meals: prices are per person and usually stocks several of the world’s leading sportswear brands including Colmar, The North Face, of the Mole Antonelliana. men’s, women’s and children’s collections refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). Napapijri, Salomon, Timberland, Kappa, Dolomite, Quiksilver, Odlo and Under Armour, € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / Located in the heart of for spring/summer 2019. plus many others, making it a go-to shopping destination for outdoor sports lovers. Maximum comfort €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. Turin’s upscale shopping Innovations for this season Vicolungo The Style Outlets is easily accessible by car (A4 Milano-Torino motorway, district at No. 11 via Roma, with a touch include the brand’s ‘Trigenic SIGHTSEEING Biandrate/Vicolungo exit). The outlet is also connected to the city centre via a convenient the shop is dedicated to Flex’ sneakers, plus more classic The information provided on museums and shuttle service that departs on Saturdays and Sundays from Piazza Carlo Felice, in front of innovation monuments is verified as meticulously as footwear lovers in search offerings. Featuring a soft, of the Porta Nuova railway station. Be sure also to take a pit-stop at one of the centre’s possible. However, data such as telephone of timeless styles that combine maximum flexible sole, Clark’s ‘Trigenics’ blend fashion numbers, opening hours, prices and the numerous bars and restaurants offering the best dishes of typical Italian cuisine. comfort with a touch of innovation. and technology, expertly crafted to deliver accessibility of sites are all subject to change, The perfect way to end your day’s shopping on a relaxing note! The display space, spread over two floors, optimum wearability. on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration By presenting this page at the Info Point, you can collect your shopping card which overlooks the arcades and is designed to work, museum loans or changes entitles you to an additional 10% discount on the outlet price at participating shops. of management. Ask your concierge. highlight the brand’s collections thanks to a >> Clarks - www.clarks.it http://vicolungo.thestyleoutlets.it simple layout featuring a contrasting scheme Via Roma, 11. Map F4

24 WHERE TURIN I JUNE 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 25 [ FASHION DESIGNERS ] SHOPPING

Regina melissatorino.com. Open Mon-Sat 11am-2pm; 3,30pm-7,30pm. Via G. Ferrari, 4. T: 011 8395813. Located in the picturesque piazza Gran Madre, this Top Brands Map H4 shop, selling handbags and accessories, will satisfy your every whim, whether you’re lovers of Ash biker Tax Free boots, Golden Goose sneakers, Aquazzura pumps, CLOTHING GUCCI—www.gucci.com Open daily 10am- SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com Castaner wedges or Stuart Weitzman’s jeweled MEN & WOMEN Refund Guide A stroll through the streets 7.30pm. Via Roma, 112. T: 011 4546632. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 335. T: sandals. It also stocks a selection of bags, bijoux and of the centre, amidst elegant Map F4 011 535345. Map E5 • Open Mon 3.30pm- auteur fragrances. www.reginashoes.it. Open Mon Antonioli 1. value added tax royal porticoes (that extend 7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1pm/3.30pm- 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 9am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm; This multi-brand boutique for men and women VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a on goods HERMÈS—www.hermes.com Open Mon-Sat 7.30pm. Corso Racconigi, 32 bis. Thurs-Fri 9am-7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3pm- in located in piazza Carlina, one of the city’s main and services, and is part of the European Union’s for 18km across the city), and 10.15am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via Roma, 124. T: T: 011 3852651. Off Map 7.30pm. Via Villa della Regina, 3. T: 011 8193029. squares. Antonioli stocks a mixture of unconventional, value added tax system. squares embellished with 011 546971. Map F4 Map I6 prestigious designer labels including Rick Owens, 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a Jil Sander, Anne Demeulemeester, Maison Margiela WOLFORD—www.wolford.it Turineyes VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services sumptuous architecture, is a and Gareth Pugh. The choice of designer labels and ITALIA INDEPENDENT— Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10am- If you’ve always dreamt of a bespoke pair of glasses, the store’s interior decor are a reflection of Claudio supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. unique opportunity to soak www.italiaindependent.com 1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Thus-Sat 10am- leave a mark on your nose, adapt perfectly to the Antonioli’s personal style. His philosophy is based 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat shape of your face, and are practical yet stylish, then up the city’s authentic charm. 7.30pm; Sun 3.30pm-7pm. Via A. Doria, 6. on blending contemporary taste with alternative • you are a non-EU resident; this is the place for you. Unique models of both 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. T: 011 531348. Map F5 solutions in a practical manner. www.antonioli.eu. for personal or It’s also a great destination for prescription and sunglasses, that take around 20 • the goods purchased are intended Via G.L. Lagrange, 31. T: 011 19885704. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 11am-7.30pm. days to execute, can be delivered worldwide. www. family use only and are carried in your luggage; shopping enthusiasts. In the Map F5 Piazza Carlo Emanuele II, 19. T: 011 883253. turineyes.it. Mon-Sat 9.30am-1pm/2.30pm-7pm. Via • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds Map G5 heart of the city, often referred 154,94 Euro L’AUTRE CHOSE—www.lautrechose.com Mazzini, 33. T: 347 1882008. Map G6 (VAT included); to as ‘little Paris’, you’ll find Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am- Boggi Milano • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice BEAUTY Men’s fashion is a perfect blend of stylistic research the best fashion brands. In 7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 20/A. should include a description of the goods purchased, and high-quality fabrics, offering clients a product Alkemy your personal information as well as the details of particular, the austere and T: 011 19468000. Map F5 that’s excellent value for money. www.boggi.com. Via This small space in the centre of Turin concocts XX Settembre, 11/c. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues- your passport or any other equivalent document; elegant via Roma and the magical alchemies for body, face and haircare. The LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com Sat 10am-7.30pm. Map E5 * Stazione Porta Nuova • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the Alkemy line includes strictly natural nutricosmetics parallel via Lagrange, do Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 320. - Via Nizza. Open Mon-Sun 8am-9pm. T: 011 5622017. third month after the month that you bought them; and dermoactives, whose effectiveness lies in the T: 011 5620678. Map E5 Map E6 • several specific customs formalities are justice to the exquisite Italian power of the natural plants and ingredients used, which no other company in the world combines or complied with; and international fashions on MARINA RINALDI—it.marinarinaldi.com Caramello makes available, including Klamath, the ultimate Located in the centre of Turin, this large showroom • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer display. Alternately, a reference Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. wild superfood. www.myalkemy.it. Mon-Fri spread over two floors, offers a wide selection of within four months after the purchase was made. Via Roma, 314. T: 011 5187050. Map E5 point for young, trendy 9.30am-1pm/2.30pm-6pm. Via V. Alfieri, 6. T: 011 men and women’s fashions. The assortment ranges 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must 5581755. Map E4 from Elisabetta Franchi’s feminine, contemporary shown at the customs fashion is via Garibaldi – one MAX & CO.—it.maxandco.com be exit point when leaving L’Arcade des Parfums collections to sartorial men’s brand Tagliatore, from EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items of the longest pedestrian Open Mon 11am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am- Dondup, the queen of Made-in-Italy denim, to Patrizia This niche perfumery, whose name is inspired by into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 69. Pepe and Manuel Ritz. Caramello also has an outlet streets in Europe – which the arcaded porticoes of Corso Vittorio Emanuele BEFORE checking in T: 011 541276. Map F4 in the Crocetta district, showcasing last season’s ). II, conducts ongoing research on its signature style. runs from Piazza Castello to collections at affordable prices. caramellostore.it. 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return Take an olfactory journey amidst luxury perfume MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the Piazza Statuto. The ideal place brands, fragrances created by illustrious Maître Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am- Tues-Fri 10.30am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. for lovers of antiques and Parfumeurs, cosmetics and makeup. The Arcade customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice 7pm. Via Roma, 322. T: 011 5618172. Corso G. Ferraris, 2. T: 011 5175090. Map D3 vintage items is via Po, which also offers a wide range of home fragrances and must be returned within four months from the date Map E5 scented candles, select bijoux, facials and makeup Kristina Ti when the document was issued. links Piazza Castello to Piazza sessions. www.larcadedesparfums-profumeria.it. The standalone store of famous Torinese brand 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com Open Mon-Sat Vittorio Veneto. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-7.30pm; Kristina offers romantic, highly feminine retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 6c. T: 011 Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Corso Vittorio collections designed by Cristina Tardito. chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax 4782004. Map F4 Emanuele II, 74/F. T: 011 5621148. Map D5 At this warm, welcoming space, located just a stone’s Free” sign in its window). ASPESI—Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat throw from piazza Castello, you’ll find clothing for Jo Malone London 7. Tax-Free companies are able to offer 10.30am-7.30pm. Galleria San Federico, 46. MONCLER—www.moncler.com Open Mon-Sat free spirited, independent women, who are not Several The entire product range of this prestigious British immediate VAT cash refunds T: 011 5613577. prepared to sacrifice a touch of seductive frivolity. when the goods 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2. brand is showcased at the airy boutique located in www.kristinati.it Open Mon 3.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating Map F4 T: 011 5618744 Map F4 the city’s central via Lagrange. Perfumes, candles, 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Maria Vittoria, 18. T: 011 837170. the passenger from having to return the invoice to diffusers, bath and body care and home products, Map F4 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com all featuring the iconic fragrances of Jo Malone the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at www.brunellocucinelli.com Open Mon-Sat Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. London that can be combined to create your own Posh major international airports or main border crossings. 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 8. Via Roma, 104. T: 011 5187109. Map E5 bespoke scent. All customers visiting the boutique At this multi-brand store, situated in the prestigious Most major department stores have Tax Free T: 011 4407207. Map F4 are offered a relaxing, scented hand massage. piazza San Carlo in the heart of the city, you’ll find a Refund offices. PRADA—www.prada.com Open Mon-Sat www.jomalone.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat selection of clothing, perfumes and accessories by 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply 10am–7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via Lagrange, 4/a. CALVIN KLEIN—www.calvinklein.com 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. several of the world’s most prestigious international the payment of a small administrative sum which Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma,342. T: 011 4546467. Map F4 brands. This highly selective choice of clothing Via G.L. Lagrange, 2/q. T: 011 3710203. is directly deducted from the amount of VAT T: 011 5613226. Map F4 Map F4 Melissa for men and women includes big-name brands like See by Chloè, Vivienne Westwood, Karl refunded to the traveller. Just steps from the Mole Antonelliana, Melissa is Lagerfeld, Comme des Garçons and Jean Charles 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund CHANEL—www.chanel.com Open Mon-Sat ROBE DI KAPPA—www.robedikappa.com much more than a herbalist. Customers visiting the de Castelbajac www.poshtorino.com. Open Mon within a reasonable period of time, he or she 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via G. Garibaldi, space will find a vast selection of organic products, 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm- wwT: 011 5066699. Map F4 33. T: 011 19886532. Map F3 including makeup, cosmetics, hair products, natural should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the 7.30pm; Thurs 10.30am-7.30pm; Fri-Sun 10.30am- soaps, candles, cups and teapots, perfumes and aforementioned companies. 1.30pm, 3.30pm-7.30pm. Via Roma, 218. GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani com herbal teas, plus teas and infusions of all types. Its 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— T: 011 5622365. Map F4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza San Carlo, www.ferragamo.com interior, decorated with flower-patterned wallpaper, directly by customs offices. hat stands, velvet sofas and vintage furniture, is 145. T: 011 5627768. Map E5 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. This timeless, sophisticated dress by style icon San Carlo dal 1973 Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund reminiscent of a French boudoir. In addition to An historic Torinese clothing • Emporio Armani: Via Buozzi Bruno, 5. Via Roma, 108. T: 011 5625940. Map E5 GIORGIO ARMANI comes in a floral jacquard silk CONCEPT STORE organizing events, its owners often pamper their store, located in its namesake square. This large T. 011 5625977. Map F4 muslin fabric. clientele with makeup artists or manicurists. www. multi-brand store, dedicated to the best collections

26 WHERE TURIN I JUNE 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 27 WHERE_TURIN_aprile_01.pdf 1 11/03/19 17:50

SHOPPING

of clothing, accessories and perfumes, skillfully mixes watches. At its historic store, boasting an innovative, and Canada, it continues to focus religiously on designer labels with alternative brands; a repository modern concept, Astrua presents its contemporary time-honoured Made-in-Italy craftsmanship. Hence, of non-conformist ideas, where you can search for jewelry creations, exquisite leather goods and the creation of footwear, renowned for its delightfully items that are never ordinary. The list of brands precious accessories. In addition to several of the aged appearance, crafted in only the finest leathers, available is vast and includes Acne Studios, DKNY, world’s most coveted watch brands, including dyed with tree tannins and enhanced with real leather Issey Miyake, Jil Sander, Lanvin and Marni. Other Rolex, Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Cartier, soles, and hand woven, hand-stitched artisanal bags. highlights include cosmetics by Santa Maria Novella Vacheron Constantin, Omega, Panerai, IWC, Hublot, www.maledettitoscani.com. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. and niche perfumes by Byredo and Diptyque. www. Baume&Mercier, Longines and Montblanc, Maison Via P. Micca, 18. T: 011 5579134. sancarlodal1973.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat Astrua 1860 stocks Murano glass by Venini, creations Map E4 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Carlo, 201. T: 011 5114110. by Tudor, luxury accessories, Edward Green footwear, Map F4 Amouage fragrances and Pasotti umbrellas. Open PASSION SHOPPING SO San Lorenzo Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.astrua.com. Via C. Battisti, 15. T: 011 5613589. Bagni Paloma An ideal destination for lovers of a chic, sought- Map F4 This delightful concept store carries clothing, after style, this stand-alone store offers a selection furniture and various other items including of established and emerging brands including Rocca 1794 dishwashing liquids, black pepper, candles, Japanese Loboutin, Azzedine Alaia, Isabel Marant and ROLEX RETAILER Master jewelers and watercolours and colognes by Parisian ceramic artist Giambattista Valli. Additionally, its homeware watchmakers since the 18th century, Rocca rates Astier de Villatte. Its fashion offerings include niche department features furnishing fabrics, unique among the first importers of luxury Swiss watches. brands like Mimì à la Mer, Laura Urbinati, Ouigal, design pieces and a careful selection of tableware Rocca pays homage to fine watchmaking with a Maria La Rosa and Ishi. All the furniture used for and furnishing accessories. www.sosanlorenzo. selection of the world’s most prestigious brands display is on sale. www.bagnipaloma.it. Open Mon it. Open Mon3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am- including Damiani, Rolex, Ulysse Nardin, Omega, 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm- 7.30pm. Via Des Ambrois, 7. T: 011 883531. Map G5 Breitling, Blancpain, Venini and Salvini. Rocca is 7.30pm; Thurs-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via dei Mille, Top Ten acknowledged for its longstanding tradition of 30/d. T: 011 888569. Map G6 professionalism and expert consultancy. Located in Located in the highly central via Soleri, this two-level the shadow of the Mole Antonelliana, its founder, Culti House Torino space has been, since its inception, a reference point Alberto Rocca, opened his first boutique at the end At this small, charming boutique decorated in shades for the city’s elite. Its discreet, minimalist architectural of the 18th century. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun of ochre and sand, you’ll find the culture of Culti, style is reflected in its meticulous, well-defined 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.rocca1794.com. Via designed to stimulate the senses in a mixture of choice of brands, ranging from the avant-garde to the Roma, 290. T: 011 5621467/5629260. design, art and fragrance. The space houses all the C most prestigious international brands like Comme Map F4 brand’s collections of room and home fragrances des Garçons, Junya and Watanabe, to mention but a including diffusers, room sprays, candles, cosmetics M few. Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via and scented pillows. www.culti.com. Open Tues-Sat Y Soleri, 2. T: 011 535360. Map E5 LEATHER & LUGGAGE 10.30am–2pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via C. Battisti, 3. T: 011 0361363. Map F4 CM Verdelilla Maledetti Toscani Tucked away in a beautiful courtyard in Corso Re This story began in 1848 in Montepulciano, Tuscany, La Belle Histoire MY Umberto, this alluring space houses a selection of when the great-great grandfather of the present Located underneath the Mole Antonelliana, this retrò- coveted French and Japanese brands, by designers owners opened a leather workshop. Today, although style atelier, overlooking a picturesque courtyard, is a CY like Tsumori Chisato, Jerome Dreyfuss and Jamin Maledetti Toscani owns shops in Europe, the USA go-to destination for romantics who’ll find themselves Puech, and also showcases the creations of emerging CMY brands. Amidst fashion, accessories, bijoux, K perfumes and cosmetics, this must-visit boutique exudes an atmosphere of innovative taste, relaxed elegance and low-key femininity. www.verdelilla.it. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Corso Re Umberto, 27. T: 011 5172701. Map D6 DEPARTMENT STORE Rinascente Italy’s most prestigious temple of high-end shopping is located in the city’s highly central via Lagrange. This department store offers the best in fashion for men, women and children, alongside a selection of accessories, design, homeware and beauty by the best Italian and international brands. At its food market, you’ll find the best gourmet Made-in-Italy foods, and a fabulous selection of prestigious international products. Don’t miss the renewed floors: -1 (home-food-design), 3rd and 4th floors (women’s fashion). Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 9.30am-8.30pm; Sun10am-8pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 15. T: 011 5170075. Map F5 JEWELLERY & WATCHES Astrua 1860 ROLEX RETAILER Astrua 1860, one of the oldest ASTRUA 1860 watchmakers in Europe, is located in the heart of Turin, between the First Italian Parliament and At its historic store, boasting an innovative, modern concept, Astrua - one of the oldest watchmakers in Europe - presents its contemporary jewelry creations, exquisite leather the National Library. A key visitor attraction at the goods and precious accessories. A key visitor attraction at the entrance to the boutique is entrance to the boutique is an elevator operated with an elevator operated with a visible gear mechanism reminiscent of those used in watches. a visible gear mechanism reminiscent of those used in

28 WHERE TURIN I JUNE 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 29 SHOPPING [ RINASCENTE] One-stop shop Esoteric Turin Turin is a city of mystery, magic and legend. Its ‘magical’ significance is attributed to its geographical position, along the 45th parallel where the Po and Dora rivers meet. More importantly, it creates the vertices of two triangles, a triangle of white magic and a triangle of black magic. This explains why Turin boasts numerous shops dedicated to arcane practices where you can purchase books, incense, tarot cards, candles, plus anything else associated with SAN CARLO DAL 1973 LA BELLE HISTOIRE the occult world. (C.Z.) See page 27 See page 28

ARETHUSA At Italy’s oldest occult bookshop, established in 1948, you can find a surrounded by old suitcases, trunks, wooden vintage of San Salvario, this shop, distinguished by its comprehensive selection of publications, furniture and brocade armchairs. The store offers minimalist decor, mixes men and women’s clothing a selection of almost exclusively Made-in-Italy books, magazines or series dedicated to with vintage jewelry and accessories and young, garments, with the exception of French brand Lilith, creative brands. Thanks to ongoing research, Rrriot spiritual, hermetic or esoteric subjects. Spanish brand Hoss Intropia and Japanese brand strives to offer its customers a range of products Arethusa also stocks a wide range of Takaaki. Other highlights include a collection of that are always different and innovative. Its aim is tarot cards, pendulums, crystal balls, The best shopping strictly Italian-made footwear and a homeware line. to introduce Turin to Northern European brands Tibetan Mala, bùzinos, runes and incense. www.labellehistoire.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; designed exclusively for the Italian market. www. arethusalibreria.com Tues-Fri 10am-1pm; 3.30pm-7.30pm; Thurs and Sat rrriotshop.com. Tues-Fri 10.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm- in Turin Tues-Sat 10.45am- 6.40pm. 10am-7.30pm. Via Montebello 15/g.T: 011 8136199. 19.30pm; Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Berthollet, 25/a. Via G. Giolitti, 18. Map H3 T: 011 19500239. Map F7 Head to Rinascente: located in the T: 011 8173373. Map F5 Les Coquettes heart of the Savoy city, it offers new Housed in a 1920s Parisian-style apartment, amidst SHOES ESOTERICAMENTE vintage hat stands, drawers filled with costume spaces and new brands for a unique Bottega Velasca jewelry, antiques and pink leather sofas, this unusual, A reference point in the city for lovers of Located in the Borgo Nuovo district, south-east shopping experience whimsical concept store, with a slightly bohemian the genre. After crossing a beautiful inner of the centre of Turin, this artisanal shoe (and air, offers a selection of clothing, delicious bijoux, courtyard in via Garibaldi, you’ll find a vast accessories) store for men offers customers an cosmetics, candles, perfumes and furnishing assortment of ritualistic objects, talismans authentic Made in Italy experience. Renowned for accessories. www.lescoquettes.it. Open Tues-Sat of Salomonic origin, tarot cards and cards its craftsmanship and Italian excellence, Bottega 10.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via G. Barbaroux, Velasca offers a selection of classic, casual and from all over the world, incense, crystals 12/l. T: 011 531943. Map F3 and everything required for ritualistic formal footwear. Open Mon 4pm-8pm; Tues-Fri practices. The bookstore is large and well- Mabì 11am-3pm/4pm-8pm; Sat and Sun 11am-8pm. www.velasca.com. Via G. Mazzini 22/e. stocked. Mabì is a sought-after boutique that sells couture The Rinascente department store in Turin has will be spoilt for choice, thanks to iconic Star Converse, Nike, Premiata, Puma, Reebok, T: 02 94755460 ([email protected]). www.esotericamente.it clothing, French costume jewelry, artisanal footwear implemented a dynamic global restyling brands like Armani Exchange, Calvin Klein Superga and more. and natural cosmetic products. Garments on sale Map G6 Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; process that merges perfectly with the Jeans, Diesel, Levi’s and Tommy Jeans, The fourth floor is the kingdom of classic include a collection of women’s couture dresses Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. designed especially for Mabi by Maria della Hole architectural and cultural excellence of the accompanied by a selection of streetwear ready-to-wear featuring the timeless allure Via G. Garibaldi, 18 (courtyard). Rocchetta, one of the two owners of the store, who This multi-brand store located in the heart of the city. The via Lagrange store is real temple of labels. Another groundbreaking addition of the latest collections by Aspesi, Emporio T: 011 4310499. Map E3 has a passion for British-style floral prints. www. city sells high-quality footwear distinguished by shopping offering visitors the best in fashion, is the creation of an outdoor clothing area, Armani, Fabiana Filippi, Herno, Fay, Polo Ralph mabishop.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed its original design. You’ll find a interesting mix of design, beauty and gourmet food, thanks to where brands showcased include EA7, Lauren, MaxMara Weekend and other brands LIBRERIA EDITRICE PSICHE 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Thurs-Sat 10.30am- trendy brands here, including Ixos, Moma and Founded in Turin in 1978, this publisher, 7.30pm. Via della Rocca, 2/m. T: 349 2818511. Strategia, alongside models by Italian and internal the presence of a cafè and food market. Napapjri ot The North Face. As part of the renowned for their contemporary classic publishes and sells works related to Map G6 artisanal producers. Also sells bags and accessories. Following the opening of the -1 floor unique, elevated shopping experience, the style. The floor’s 1,200 square metres also Open Mon 3.30pm-7.15pm; Tues-Fri 10.30am- medicine, naturopathy, psychology, dedicated to homeware, design and food, spotlight is also focused on footwear. host an area devoted to lingerie, in a visually Poncif 2pm/3.30pm-7.15pm; Sat 10.30am-12.30am/3.30pm- spirituality, sophism, Buddhism, Taoism Since 1986, this boutique has focused on a style 7pm. Via G. Botero, 11. T: 011 5176602. Map E3 the first floor acts as a showcase for classic The third floor presents contemporary striking architectural display, infused with and numerology at its namesake designed for women, who, in spite of their love collections, with a focus on outerwear ready-to-wear, expressed to perfection a romantic mood; the collections include bookstore. for minimalist, no-frills fashion, are nevertheless Cribì signed by prestigious brands including for a complete day-to-night lifestyle look. items from Wolford, Paladini, Emporio Armani, Also organizes meetings, courses and looking to make a statement thanks to the strikingly Established in 1996, and located in Turin’s highly central via Lagrange, Cribi is a multi-brand store Emporio Armani, Fay and Polo Ralph Lauren. The focal point of the floor is a 250 square Henro, Calvin Klein, Chantelle and Lejaby. The themed seminars. original designs and unusual colour combinations. selling minimalist, alternative footwear and clothing, www.libreriaeditricepsiche.info In addition to the line of the Poncif brand, all the The other side of the floor hosts more meter area dedicated to footwear. Brands children’s collections, featuring on-trend collections showcased are based on the same featuring a combination of craftsmanship and Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm- contemporary offerings, with brands like showcased include Casadei, Isabel Marant, picks by big-name brands complete the principle. www.poncif.com. Open Mon 3.30pm- experimentation to create elegant, timeless lines. 7.30pm; 7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Fri Best sellers include boots by Fiorentini+Baker, Corneliani Collection and Hugo Boss, or more Kenzo, Marni, Sergio Rossi, Tod’s, Hogan, shopping experience at the store. Sat 9.30am-12.30am. 10am-7.30pm. Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 5\f. pumps by Del Carlo and original clothing by Malloni relaxed options, including Aspesi or Eleventy. Tory Burch, Fratelli Rossetti, Michael Kors and Via Madama Cristina, 70/b. T: 011 8173040. Map H5 and Liviana Conti. www.cribibotique.it. Open Mon On the second floor, visitors will find numerous others. Lovers of a casual-chic T: 011 6507058. Off Map 3.30pm-7.30 pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm- >> Rinascente Torino Rrriot shop 7.30pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 38. T: 011 5611348. themselves immersed in a world of look will be spoilt for choice when it comes www.rinascente.it - Open 7 days a week.

Tucked away in the creative, multi-ethnic district Map F5 SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE IS KINDLY THIS PAGE contemporary fashion. Fans of denim to sneakers. Brands include Adidas Y3, All Via G.L. Lagrange, 15. T: 011 5170075.

30 WHERE TURIN I JUNE 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 31 FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN NEW FOOD&WINE OPENING FOOD SHOPS Borgiattino Pastry Shops A reference point in Turin for lovers of traditional The traditional/age-old art of pastry making is deeply rooted in Turin, and the Piedmont cheeses, including Tome and Fontine d’alpeggio, Robiola, Gorgonzola, Ormea and city’s confectionery is famous throughout the world. Sweet treats like ‘baci Castelmagno. Located in the heart of the city, this di dama’, marron glacés and ‘giandujotti’ were invented here and exported historic ‘bottega’ also offers specialties from other abroad, while others, which are more inherently Piedmontese, are well worth Italian and European regions including Reblochon discovering. It’s therefore no surprise that the city is inundated with top-level from France and Cheddar from Britain, accompanied pastry shops. Although it’s impossible to mention them all, we’ve compiled a list by wines and other high-quality artisanal products. Open Mon-Sat 8.30am-1pm/4pm-7.30pm. of several that are rated top in town. By Chiara Zaccarelli borgiattino.com. Corso Vinzaglio, 29. T: 011 5629075. Map C4 CAFFÈ PLATTI Eataly Torino Lingotto If you visit just one of Turin’s historic Located in Turin’s Lingotto district, Eataly is a cult locales, then it has to be the illustrious, destination dedicated to Italian gastronomy, offering belle epoque Caffè Platti. Opened in numerous gift ideas to satisfy every palate. Set in a large converted factory, this 11,000-sq-metre 1870, it soon became a social and cultural emporium, houses a vast array of eateries, serving reference point for 20th century Turin. traditional Italian and Piedmontese specialties. A Here, amidst mirrors, gilded stuccoes, go-to destination for a sweet or savoury breakfast, a inlaid walnut furniture and gold Louis XVI quick lunch, a tantalizing afternoon tea, a dinner at a medallions, you can sample Piedmontese pizzeria or a gourmet restaurant, without forgetting specialties like ‘bunet’, Meliga pastries, Michelin-starred restaurant Casa Vicina (entrance ‘bignole’ and Platti cake. from via Nizza 224). Open daily 10am/10.30pm. Since 2017, the confectionery has been run T: 011 19506801. www.eataly.net. Via Nizza, 230. by renowned patissier Guido Gobino, the Off Map king of Torinese chocolate. www.platti.it Gastronomia (La) Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 72. VEGAN A vegan delicatessen where you T: 011 4546151. can eat on-site, order take-aways, or even take cookery courses. Its dishes, all cooked with GHIGO meat-free ingredients, include Seitan, Russian and Capricciosa salad and a strictly anchovy- This historic pastry shop, located just free Piedmont green sauce for vegans who are steps from the Mole, is famous for its hot fans of Piedmont specialties. The deli is located chocolate, served with freshly whipped in via Dante Nenni, in the heart of Borgo San cream and marrons glacés (a candied Torteria Berlicabarbis DIEGO DOMINICI © FEDERICA DI GIOVANNI Paolo, Turin’s historical, working class district. chestnut covered with a sugar glaze). © Open Mon-Thus 10am-8pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Sat At Christmas, Ghigo excels itself with its 9.30am-2.30pm. gastronomiaveg.it. Via Dante di famous ‘Nuvola di Ghigo’, a traditional Nanni, 116. T: 011 3828605. Off Map and pear tarts. The venue is infused with a ‘Pandoro’ covered with a butter icing and a warm, homely Provence-style atmosphere Làit e Formagg generous sprinkling of icing sugar. where, amidst cast iron teapots, French tin Located just steps from the centre, this small, www.pasticceriaghigo.it boxes, brightly-coloured cups and vintage well-stocked shop sells Piedmontese and other Via Po, 52/b. T: 011 887017. trays, you can purchase traditional Savoy Mercato Centrale debuts in Turin cheese specialties (Parmesan cheese, ricotta, aged biscuits, flower-based preserves, Leone cheeses, ‘tomini’, ‘caprini’, herb-flavoured cheeses PASTICCERIA VENIER candies and fruit preserved in honey. Vegan and more) which can be sampled with tantalizing After making a splash in Florence and Rome, Mercato Centrale has now opened in Turin to foodies’ delight. Pasticceria Venier, located in the heart of options are also available. berlicabarbis.com sauces, high-quality charcuterie and other regional A large space encompassing food, culture and artisanship under one roof. By Chiara Zaccarelli specialties including grissini, lingue di suocera the centre, is another go-to destination to Corso Moncalieri, 214. T: 011 2074508. (a type of biscuit which translates literally as start (or end) your day on a sweet note. It’s Via Catania, 10. T:011 231032 mother-in-law’s tongues) and other typical sweet famous for its ‘marocchino’ (coffee served urin’s new Mercato Centrale has products to take away or sample on-site, a the Combal.Zero restaurant, Marcello Trentini, treats, such as Piedmontese biscuits and hazelnut in a small glass cup, with a dark chocolate FARMACIA DEL CAMBIO debuted in Porta Palazzo, a historic restaurant, a cookery school, a bar, a brewery, of Il Magorabin, and the traditional flavours of cakes. From October to January, you’ll also find base, topped with foamed milk and a A sophisticated Savoy-style ‘salotto’, precious white truffles from Alba. Open Mon hub of commerce located in the heart of a café and an events space. There’s even a Farmacia del Cambio, all serving innovative sprinkling of bitter cocoa powder), but also created in the rooms of an old apothecary T 11am-2pm/4pm-8pm; Tues-Sat 8am-2pm/4pm- its ‘briosche’, including its custard-filled established in 1883, in the city’s beautiful Turin. This multi-ethnic neighbourhood, lying small mill where you can purchase flour by the menus at affordable prices. Another must- 8pm. www.alformaggi.it. Via Madama Cristina, 18. ‘torciglione’ with a hint of lemon, and its piazza Carignano. Here, you’ll find a north-east of the historic scoop, or request customized visit space is the distillery, which in addition to T: 011 6699407. Off Map Umbertino, a biscuit resembling a ‘bacio di fabulous assortment of pastries by chef centre, has hosted Europe’s Welcome to a blends to suit individual serving classic cocktails also stocks a selection Pescheria Gallina dama’ but with, a double layer of chocolate Fabrizio Galla including Veneziane, largest open-air market requirements. of vermouth, gin, whiskey, vodka, tequila, new gastronomic Now run by the fourth generation, this historic and two amaretti instead of shortcake. Sfogliatine, almond and orange cakes, since 1800. bourbon and digestifs. experience in Turin Culinary standouts fishmonger located in Porta Palazzo’s piazza del Via Monte di Pietà, 22. T: 011 541592. bignès, ‘bonet’, fruit tartlets, millefeuille, What better location include Beppino Occelli’s A highlight: the two historic, 18th century mercato has been in business for over a century. hazelnut cakes and croissants. Also worth for Mercato Centrale, a format that, after Piedmontese cheeses, Michelis’ homemade ice houses on the second floor are used Its wonderfully fresh fish, mainly sourced from the TORTERIA BERLICABARBIS mention are the locale’s savoury offerings Ligurian Sea, guaranteeing that it was caught just Florence and Rome, has injected new life into pasta (see photo), Alberto Marchetti’s multi- to host the venue’s action-packed calendar In dialect, ‘Berlicabarbis’ means to ‘lick your which include sandwiches, savoury 24 hours earlier, can be eaten on-site. Customers this historic place, giving the Torinese and award winning ice cream, Neapolitan pizza, of cultural events and site-specific installations. snacks, crusty bread, bagels and more. can choose their order directly from the counter lips’. A particularly apt name for a pastry tourists a chance to share a new gastronomic Chianina beef hamburgers, Luciano Savini’s The Mercato Centrale Torino is open 364 days or opt for its fixed-price menu, which include the shop that turns out approximately A great place for lunch or an aperitivo. experience. truffles, Sicilian specialties, Mediterranean a year, Monday through Sunday, from 8am catch of the day, focaccia, a glass of house wine 20 different cakes a day, including farmaciadelcambio.it. Mercato Centrale Torino extends over a surface fish and spit-roasted, free-range chickens. to midnight. and a bottle of water. Open Mon-Fri 07am-3pm; cheesecake, tarts filled with custard and Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 19211250. area of 4,500 square meters on three levels The space also features three icons of Turin’s Sat 7.30am-5pm. www.pescheriagallina.com. fresh fruit, Renetta apple caked and ricotta Piazza della Repubblica, 14/b. T: 011 5213424. Barberino Designer Outlet and includes stalls where you can purchase culinary scene: starred chefs Davide Scabin of >> Piazza della Repubblica, 25. Map F2 Map F2

32 WHERE TURIN I JUNE 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 33 DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN TRADITIONAL PIEDMONTESE CUISINE Cannavacciuolo Bistrot Michelin-starred restaurants Located just steps from the Gran Madre, this Turin- Seven starred restaurants, serving sublime dishes infused with the flavours, based bistro owned by multi-award winning Italian traditions and creativity of the region await visitors to Turin. (C. Z.) chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo, will not disappoint. The bistro offers guests a unique tasting experience featuring a combination of northern and southern CANNAVACCIUOLO flavours. Highlights include Fassona beef tartare, BISTROT TORINO codfish with tomatoes, eggplant parmigiana ravioli Established to offer diners an with a Provola cheese sauce and pigeon with elegant, unique experience, this blueberries and burrata (a fresh Italian buffalo milk restaurant highlights the essence cheese made from mozzarella and cream). Open Mon 7pm-11pm; Tues-Sat 12.30pm-3pm/7pm-11pm. of the famous Neapolitan chef €€€. www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it/torino. Antonino Cannavacciuolo’s Via U. Cosmo, 6. T: 011 8399893. Map I6 culinary art, which sees traditional ingredients from his homeland Casa Amelie mixed and matched with those A stone’s throw from the Quadrilatero Romano, from Piedmont. The space has and only a few months after opening, this small, welcoming locale owned by Neapolitan chef been designed in keeping with Guido Perino, was classified as one of the city’s top the philosophy of Feng Shui. ten restaurants at the Fork Restaurants Awards, Via Umberto Cosmo, 6. sponsored by Identità Golose. The chef’s creative T: 011 8399893. Vintage 1997 yet simple cuisine features a combination of classic www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it and exotic fare, premium-quality ingredients and Map I6 seasonal products that will delight your taste MAGORABIN buds. Open Mon 7.30pm-10.30pm; Tues-Sat CARIGNANO Just steps from the Mole, this starred 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€. At the restaurant located inside the Grand restaurant is owned by Marcello Trentini, www.ristorantecasaamelie.com. an eclectic Chef with a strong personality. Via Giulio, 4/b. T: 011 5211579. Map E2 Hotel Sitea, the culinary offerings are inspired by Piedmont’s renowned regional cuisine, You can dine à la carte, or enjoy the Cianci Piola Caffè re-imagined by Milanese Chef Fabrizio Tesse, restaurant’s tasting menuJust a little further A real institution in Turin, this bustling ‘piola’ offering a cuisine rooted in Piedmont tradition on, in the same street, the chef has opened (a typical, laid-back Piedmontese tavern) offers with a few forays into the nearby region of Magorabin Alimentari, a bottega/bistro with authentic regional dishes at unbeatable prices. an adjacent bakery where you can purchase With tables spilling out onto the square in warmer Liguria. His menu features traditional dishes or taste specialty products. months, this delightful locale in the heart of the re-imagined and re-adapted in keeping with Quadrilatero Romano, serves Fassona beef tartare, contemporary techniques and tastes. Corso San Maurizio, 61/b. T: 011 8126808.

© DAVIDE BELLUCCA © DAVIDE ‘vitello tonnato’, ‘tajerin’ (a thin version of tagliatelle), Via Carlo Alberto, 35. T: 011 5170171. ‘agnolotti’ and a vegetable-based Piedmontese www.ristorantecarignano.it Map F5 www.magorabin.com Map H4 antipasto which includes tomatoes, anchovies and peppers in a sauce, accompanied by a great CASA VICINA SPAZIO 7 selection of wines. Open 12.30pm-3.30pm/6.30pm- Located in the headquarters of Eataly, this Housed in Fondazione Sandretto Re 11pm. €€. Largo 4 Marzo, 9/b, T: 388 8767003. Map F3 Classic cuisine with a twist restaurant is run by the Vicina family, who Rebaudengo, a centre for contemporary art, At ‘Le Vitel Étonné’ customers can sample traditional Piedmontese dishes, subtly re-imagined to suit contemporary Consorzio for five generations have embraced the the dining room of Spazio 7 is an integral In the heart of the quaint Quadrilatero Romano, region’s tradition of hospitality, fine wines and part of the Foundation. tastes. The menu is enhanced by an extensive list of regional wines. By Chiara Zaccarelli Consorzio offers traditional cuisine, sometimes traditional cuisine, infused with prime quality The cuisine offered by Alessandro Mecca, a re-imagined with a twist, featuring ‘Made-in ingredients. The wine list is extensive and young Chef who arrived here after working Piedmont’ ingredients including Piedmontese well structured. Since Casa Vicina collaborates at several of Piedmont’s most historic beef, Cervere leeks, the hunchback thistles of Nizza ocated in the heart of the centre, with classic Torinese grissini (breadsticks). >> www.leviteletonne.com with Eataly, customers can choose from the restaurants, mirrors the foundation’s concept: Monferrato and freshly picked, garden-grown young, contemporary and open to innovation. just steps from Palazzo Reale and Depending on the season and the catch of Via San Francesco da Paola, 4. vegetables. A harmonious combination that pays emporium’s fabulously stocked wine cellar. Via Nizza, 224 c/o Eataly Lingotto. The wine list features the classics of Piedmont the Mole, this small restaurant serves the day, the restaurant also offers customers T: 011 8124621. Map H4 tribute to customers, chefs, breeders, farmers and L wine growers. Its cheeses, sourced from the best T: 011 19506840. www.casavicina.com Off Map and its neighboring regions in France. traditional regional dishes including, first a choice of seafood options. Standouts on local producers, with a few forays into the rest of Via Modane, 20. T: 011 3797626. and foremost, “vitello tonnato”, a specialty the dessert menu include mascarpone cream, Italy, France or Britain for a taste of Stilton, deserve DEL CAMBIO www.ristorantespazio7.it Off Map that the Piedmontese call Vitel Tonné as a sprinkled with bitter chocolate, on a chocolate a separate mention. Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm- Established in 1757, it was among the tribute to their foreign cousins. The name of biscuit base, or gelato and sorbets prepared in- 2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; Sat 7.30pm-11pm. €€. favourite haunts of Camillo Benso, Count VINTAGE 1997 the restaurant stems from a play on the words house using seasonal ingredients. The locale’s ristoranteconsorzio.it. Via Monte di Pietà, 23. of Cavour, Giacomo Casanova, Honoré de As its name suggests, it’s renowned T: 011 2767661. Map E3 “tonné” and “étonné”, meaning “surprised” 19th century cellar, featuring barrel vaults and Balzac, Giuseppe Verdi, Maria Callas and for its old-world atmosphere. or “amazed” in French. The menu features open brick walls, hosts more than 300 Italian È Cucina the Agnelli family. This restaurant is a real The restaurant’s culinary offerings are also true to tradition. Rather than bold, creative a selection of must-try strictly homemade labels, with a focus on Piedmontese reds. If This charming restaurant owned by theatrical Torinese institution. Chef Matteo Baronetto, of Florentine chef Cesare Maretti features brightly pairings, you’ll find authentic Piedmontese fresh pasta dishes. Specialties include classic you enjoy watching the chefs at work, grab Piedmontese origin, remains true to regional lit windows overlooking the street, contemporary traditions, which he reinterprets with a specialties including truffles, cheeses and Tajarin, prepared according to a traditional a seat in the welcoming ground floor dining décor and an open-plan kitchen, now a popular creative twist. A tour of the cellar, whose 17th meats. No-frills expertise, practiced for recipe with 36 egg yolks per kilo of flour, room, opposite the open-plan kitchen. contemporary concept in Northern Italy. The chef’s century aisles house 2,200 labels, is also worth the past twenty years with traditional served with an array of sauces, agnolotti, Please note: unlike most local eateries, the underlying philosophy is based on the search Piedmontese professionalism. for premium-quality ingredients with a particular a visit. Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 546690. tagliatelle with Bra sausage and Plin. Main locale is open non-stop from midday to www.vintage1997.com Map E4 focus on organic fruit and vegetables (all dishes www.delcambio.it Map F4 dishes, also based on traditional recipes, are midnight. So, if you suddenly get a craving are served with a side, at no additional charge) and cooked at low temperatures in hay, or breaded for tajarin at 5pm, you’ll know where to go! conviviality. In the evening, guests can choose from

34 WHERE TURIN I JUNE 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 35 DINING DINING

a meat, fish or vegetarian menu, accompanied by In addition to classic regional recipes, including Oriental Daily by Kiki homemade bread and focacce. Open Mon-Sun rabbit tuna, beef tartare and classic starters, it also In addition to classic sushi, sashimi and tempura, 12.30pm-3am/8pm-11pm; Sun 12 noon-3pm. €€. serves a variety of fish dishes. Its wine list features a this fusion restaurant also serves spicy meat and fish cesaremarretti.com. Via Bertola, 27/a. T: 011 5629038. great selection of Piedmont labels including Arneis, curries, ramen, steaming noodles, Pad Thai, steamed Map E3 Nebbiolo and Barbera. It’s advisable to book ahead. ravioli, tartare, tataki and other creatives dishes. Piedmont food glossary Open daily 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€. Filiberti-Vini e Fornelli Indulge your sweet tooth with one of the venue’s scannabue.it. Largo Saluzzo, 25/h. T: 011 6696693. original desserts including Azuki bean ice cream and A small bistro in the Quadrilatero Romano, infused Map E7 sweet Chawanmush, an egg custard dish filled with From a gastronomic viewpoint, the region of Piedmont boasts some of Italy’s with a decidedly French atmosphere. The menu cherries and wild berries. Excellent value for money. is divided into small tapas-style antipasti (referred Stefano Fanti al Circolo dei Lettori finest, most diverse traditional foods. It is therefore no surprise that the world- Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sat to here as ‘minuterie’) including Bao buns topped This unique restaurant is located at the Circolo dei famous ‘Slow Food’ association, an international, non-profit organization 7pm-10.30pm. €€. www.orientaldaily.it. Via Cesana, with brisket and barbecue sauce, codfish cheek Lettori, in the city’s 17th century Palazzo Graneri committed to giving food back its proper value, was born here. It is also here 72. T: 011 4470067. Off Map with chard and a meat consommé. Mains include della Roccia. Formerly a private members club, the that the Italian University of Gastronomic Sciences, the first, and possibly only, pastrami or ‘plin’ re-interpreted in a Mediterranean Circolo dei Lettori was a meeting place for Turin’s ‘university of taste’ in the world, was established. The amazing raw materials version with Provola cheese, eggplant and tomatoes, intellectuals, writers, poets and artists, seen in the PIZZA offered by the Piedmontese region include meat, cheese, wine and truffles, accompanied by an extensive wine list, including rows of artist portraits that line the restaurant’s walls. A Casa di Pulcinella several natural varieties. Open Mon 7pm-11pm; Tues- Its traditional culinary offering is reinterpreted with and are the basic ingredients used to create deliciously rich, tasty recipes. An informal locale which, as its name suggests, Thurs 12 noon-2.30pm/7pm-11pm; Fri- Sat 12noon- a contemporary twist by chef Stefano Fantini. For serves a fabulous Neapolitan pizza, accompanied by We’ve compiled a list of several Made in Piedmont dishes that are absolute Piedmontese Mixed Fry 2.30pm/7pm-midnight. €€. www.filibertiviniefornelli. an overview of regional specialties, make sure to try a wide selection of craft and other beers. Thanks to must-tastes. By Chiara Zaccarelli it. Piazza Emanuele Filiberto, 6/a. T: 011 19173730. its tasting menu and, if you’re feeling bold, opt for a natural, slow-leavening process, the pizza dough Map E2 the ‘Finanziera’. Open 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm- is light, tasty and easy to digest. Ingredients include 10.30pm. €€€. www.circololettori.it/il-ristorante. the classics for which Neapolitan pizza is renowned BAGNA CAUDA AGNOLOTTI DEL PLIN Le Vitel Etonné Via Bogino, 9. T: 011 4326828. Map G4 The standout at this restaurant located in the heart but also those of traditional Italian regional cuisine, This typical winter specialty consists of a These small filled ‘pouches’ are made with a Vitello Tonnato ranging from a Margherita topped with Bufala of the centre is ‘vitello tonnato’, one of the great sauce made from garlic, extra virgin olive thin sheet of dough, stuffed with a filling of classics of Piedmont cuisine, an absolute must-try at ETHNIC CUISINE Campana mozzarella to a version with Moncalieri oil and anchovies, to which butter, milk braised meat (usually a mixture of beef, veal its namesake restaurant. Other specialties include Hafa Storie sausage.Open Tues-Sat 12pm-3pm/6.30pm- 10.30pm. €€. www.acasadipulcinella.it. Corso and chopped nuts can also be added. or pork) and Swiss chard, dressed with the ‘tajerin’, a fresh pasta prepared according to a A Piedmont Moroccan restaurant. In Turin, this is Rosselli, 82. T: 011 595457. Off Map traditional recipe with 36 egg yolks per kilo of flour, fairly common because the city’s second largest Bagna Cauda is served in a terracotta pan juices of the braised meat, or butter and

served with an array of seasonal sauces, ‘tagliatelle’ foreign community is the Moroccan community, Bakery Restaurant & Pizza pot and used as a dip for raw or cooked sage. The name ‘plin’ derives from the regional with Bra sausage and ‘agnolotti al plin’. The locale’s and the restaurant is located in Porta Palazzo, the Tucked away in a peaceful area of the city, not seasonal vegetables. If, on the one hand, dialect for ‘pinch’ because to form each 19th century cellar, featuring barrel vaults and open city’s multi-ethnic district par excellence. While the far from the Porta Nuova station, this pizzeria/ brick walls, hosts more than 300 labels. Open Tues- it encourages conviviality, on the other, agnolotto you pinch the two sheets Piedmontese offerings are created by Christian restaurants boasts a wood-fired oven that turns out Sun 10.30am-midnight. €€€. www.leviteletonne.com. especially if you’ve overdone the garlic, of pasta together. Milone, a young, talented starred chef hailing from a slow-rising, Neapolitan-style pizza, featuring a soft, Via San Francesco da Paola, 4. T: 011 8124621. Trattoria Zappatori in Pinerolo, the Moroccan dishes crunchy dough and high-quality ingredients. Diners you might find people avoiding you Map G4 are prepared by Aicha the cook. Between a seven- can choose from among a variety of classic toppings, because you reek of it! PIEDMONTESE GRAN BOLLITO MISTO Plin & Tajarin vegetable couscous and a braise with polenta, this with a few regional references including sausage and This elaborate dish of mixed boiled meats restaurant lays the foundations for a harmonious, This is small eatery resembling an artist’s studio ‘friarelli’ (broccoli rabe), or gorgonzola, pears and PIEDMONTESE MIXED FRY is made from seven cuts of Piedmontese productive cultural exchange. Open Tues-Fri rather than a restaurant. The kitchen turns out small walnuts. Its well-stocked cellar boasts a number of Bagna Cauda

11am-3pm/5pm-12.30am; Sat 10am-12.30am; Sun This uniquely rich local specialty of veal, including the thigh muscle, shoulder BOSCHERINO PHOTO © GIOVANNI SHUTTERSTOCK.COM masterpieces like ‘plin’ and ‘tajerin’, the staples of highly select labels from Italy’s best wine producers. 11.30am-4.30pm. €€. hafastorie.it. Galleria Umberto Piedmont consists of a combination and breast, and seven ‘improvers’, tongue, Piedmont’s culinary tradition, which are available Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; I, 10/13. T: 011 19486765. Map F2 with numerous fillings and sauces, including vegan Sat 7.30pm-11pm. €€. www.bakerytorino.it. of fried liver, lungs, brain, sweetbreads, musetto (a pork sausage made in part from A Bain Marie, or hot water bath, is a slow, and vegetarian options. Before, after or as an Kay Essenza Peruviana & Piscobar Via Avigliana, 47/a. T: 011 4337074. liver veins, a slice of veal, sausage, sweet a pig’s snout) and a game hen, cooked Map B3 accompaniment, diners can order meat from select Located in the Crocetta district, this top-level semolina, amaretti biscuits and apples, for several hours in boiling water. It is natural culinary technique that is used to Piedmont producers, delicious ‘focaccia’ made Peruvian restaurant is helmed by a team of young, Crudo fa la Pizza! accompanied by pan-fried carrots or mixed accompanied by seven tasty sauces, and cook delicate foods, over a low temperature, with stone-ground flour and traditional desserts, knowledgeable staff. The menu embraces the Crudo is an award-winning food company, boasting using the steam the Bain Marie creates. It including amaretto ice cream. Open Mon-Sat vegetables. Not a dish for the a side of vegetables. One of the favourite traditional flavours of every region in Peru, from its two osterie and a bistro in the city, renowned for preserves the softness of the dessert and 12.45pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 7.45pm-10.30pm. €€€. faint-hearted. dishes of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, coast to its mountains, right up to the Amazonian their fresh high-quality ingredients, sourced from www.plinetajarin.it. Via G. Casalis, 59. T: 011 3828128. facilitates the formation forests, interpreted with a gourmet twist. Signature only the finest producers. It has now taken on the and Vittorio Emanuele, Piedmont’s ‘bollito Map B3 dishes include Fassona beef tartare with fried challenge of making one of Italy’s best-loved dishes. misto’ even has its own brotherhood. of a delicious crust on its surface. Porto di Savona marrow bone and spicy mayonnaise, marinated Nineteen different versions of pizza take diners on a scallops and tapioca, ceviches and even a South One of the city’s oldest restaurants, Porto di Savona culinary journey that encompasses the whole of the VITELLO TONNATO American interpretation of Piedmont’s classic peninsula, from Favignana with Siccagno tomatoes, opened in 1863 when Turin was the capital of Italy. This classic ‘antipasto’ of Piedmont cuisine The restaurant is on the city’s beautiful Piazza ‘bagnetto verde’ (green sauce), accompanied by a anchovy fillets, Mediterranean tuna fillets, capers and is made from poaching the ‘girello’ cut of Vittorio, and the warm interior is laid out like a 19th- carefully selected choice of Piedmont wines. Open Sicilian olive oil to Aosta, with mozzarella, Fontina century tavern, with Liberty-style decor, wooden Tues-Sat 12 noon-2.45pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sun 12 d’Aosta Dop and hand-sliced artisanal ham. Open ‘Fassona’ veal (a prized Piemontese breed boiserie, mirrors, 1940s furnishing accessories noon-2.45pm. €€. kayessenzaperuvianapiscobar. daily 12 noon-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€. pizza.crudotorino. of veal) in a stock with aromatic herbs and business.site. Via E. Torricelli, 59. T: 011 5096002. and walls decorated with period paintings and com. Via Palazzo di Città, 7/d. T: 340 2494060. white wine, sliced thinly and served cold with Map F2 Map F3 photographs. Its menu – don’t be misled by its name a traditional sauce made from tuna fish, egg – features classic Piedmont cuisine including ‘vitello Oh Crispa! Gusto Madre tonnato’, ‘agnolotti’, homemade pasta, braised meat, yolks, capers, extra virgin olive oil, white wine, If you’re looking for Chinese street food that’s as Pizza is experiencing a renaissance. From a dish of ‘fritto misto’, ‘bolliti’ (boiled meats), ‘Finanziera’ (a lemon juice, salt and pepper. good as any you’ll find in Shanghai, then you’ve the people to a gourmet specialty, interpreted with hearty dish of veal offal and cockscomb cooked come to the right place. The kitchen is headed by a numerous dough varieties, flours and ingredients. with Marsala wine, vinegar and herbs) and, in winter Chinese/Asti couple who prepare Chinese crepes If you’re feeling overwhelmed by all these options, BONET ‘bagna cauda’. Open daily 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm- stuffed with meat, Tofu or vegetables, the by now there are places, like Gusto Madre, that will remove Bonet, pronounced bunet, is a soft, rich, midnight. foodandcompany.com. €€€. ubiquitous Baos, steamed buns filled with pork any doubt. Ingredients bestowed by Mother Nature, Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 2. T: 011 8173500. deliciously old-fashioned dessert that can or crab, artisanal ravioli in broth, and specials that processed to a minimum and combined with the Map H5 be eaten with a spoon. Bonet is made from vary from day to day. All the dishes featured on creativity and skill inherent in time-honoured dough- Scannabue the menu are made from carefully selected, strictly making techniques, are the reasons for the success sugar, eggs, milk, cocoa, rum and dry amaretti Located in the trendy San Salvario district, Piedmontese ingredients. Open Tues 6.30pm-11pm; of this healthy, easy-to-digest, multi-award winning biscuits. An unusual feature of this recipe is Wed-Sat 12.30pm-3pm/6.30pm-11pm; Sun pizza. Open from Wednesday to Monday. €€. www. Scannabue is extremely popular thanks to its warm, PHOTO © TENNIS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Bagna Cauda Bonet that it’s baked in a Bain Marie in the oven. CAZZANTI PHOTO © VALENTINO SHUTTERSTOCK.COM laid back atmosphere and its traditional, affordable 12.30pm-3pm/6.30pm-10.30pm. Via Belfiore, 16bis/d. gustomadre.it. Via G. Mazzini, 31/A T: 011 18894434. cuisine, especially among the city’s young, hip crowd. €. T: 339 6112705. Off Map Map G6

36 WHERE TURIN I JUNE 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 37 ENTERTAINMENT FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN created with a mixture of vintage furnishings and theatre of the highest standards and presents an AFTER DINNER contemporary works of art. In addition to cocktails, unrivalled range of classics, new plays and family Hiroshima Mon Amour it offers a wide choice of wines and liqueurs, entertainment. Open Tues-Sat 1pm-7pm. accompanied by a fabulous selection of finger food, www.teatrostabiletorino.it. Piazza Carignano, 6. Founded in the Eighties, Hiroshima Mon Amour is a focacce and hot, bite-sized pizzas. Open Mon- T: 011 5169555. Map F4 go-to events space for lovers of music, theatre and Thurs 5pm-to 2am; Fri 5pm-3am; Sat 10am-3am; culture. Located near the Lingotto railway station, Sun 10am-2am. www.la-drogheria.it. Piazza Vittorio Teatro Nuovo over the years it has become a reference point for Veneto, 18/d. T: 011 8122414. Map H5 Teatro Nuovo is Turin’s temple of dance. In addition events, music festivals, DJ sets, concerts featuring to the Teatro Nuovo Foundation, it is home to Italian and international artists, exhibitions and Lanificio San Salvatore the Teatro Nuovo Company, the Regional Dance clubbing. www.hiroshimamonamour.org. Located in the trendy, vibrant San Salvario district, Academy, the Teatro Nuovo School of Fine and Via Bossoli, 83. T: 011 3176636. Off Map this former wool mill serves high-quality cocktails Performing Arts, Choral Music and Musical Theatre Jazz Club Torino accompanied by a rich buffet of large, tantalizing and the Valentino Cinema. Though mainly used to dishes that are also suitable for vegetarians. stage musicals, it also hosts concerts, ballets and Located just steps from Piazza San Carlo, the Jazz Highlights include an interesting wine list, including operettas. Open daily. www.teatronuovo.torino.it. Club is justifiably one of Turin’s best venues for numerous organic labels, plus a good selection of Corso M. d’Azeglio, 17. T: 011 6500211. Off Map Italian jazz. A meeting place for lovers of the genre, classic cocktails. The venue also organizes themed its offers a diverse program of concerts with an evenings and live concerts. Open: Mon-Thurs 6pm- Teatro Regio emphasis on contemporary trends and up-and- 2am; Fri-Sat 6pm-3am; Sun 11am-2am. Located in the highly central Piazza Castello, Teatro coming artists. The venue also hosts a restaurant Via Sant’Anselmo, 30. T: 011 0867568. Map F7 Regio is the ‘grande’ dame of Turinese theatres. The and lounge bar where guests can relax and enjoy a venue was commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II at meal or a drink while listening to the music. Open the beginning of the 18th century and designed by Wed-Thurs 8.30pm-midnight; Fri 8.30pm-2am; THEATRES Filippo Juvarra. The theatre’s history is inextricably Sat 8.30pm-3am; Sun: see calendar. www.jazzclub. Teatro Carignano linked to several of the world’s most illustrious torino.it. Via S. Francesco da Paola corner of via One of the most important theatres in Turin, it was musicians including Arturo Toscanini, Giacomo Giolitti. T: 011 882939. Map G5 the place where the king went to watch plays (opera Puccini and Richard Strauss who conducted and Les Arcades was only performed at the Teatro Regio). Dating staged their operas here. Today it presents an exciting international program of operas, ballets This informal locale in the Porta Nuova district, back to 1700, it is run by the prestigious Teatro and concerts. Open Tues-Fri 10.30am-6pm; Sat made headlines a few years ago due to Tamango, Stabile di Torino and located in the city’s beautiful 10.30am4pm. www.teatroregio.torino.it. a hallucinogenic cocktail, that everyone, including piazza Carignano, opposite Palazzo Carignano. Piazza Castello, 215. T: 011 8815557. Map F3 the BBC, talked about. Based on a secret recipe Teatro Carignano has a reputation for producing and prepared with a mix of African plants and roots, Tamango gets its red colour from roselle leaves, a species of hibiscus, which apparently prompts a sense of euphoria and a desire to dance. Open Tues-Sat 9.30pm-4am. Via Fratelli Calandra, 10. T: 339 852806. Map G6 Piano35 Italy’s highest panoramic lounge bar is housed in the skyscraper designed by Renzo Piano to host the offices of the Intesa Sanpaolo bank. Here you can taste amazing cocktails created by multi-starred bar tender Mirko Turconi accompanied by an assortment of delectable finger food. The venue offers breathtaking views over a winter garden and the city of Turin. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight. www.grattacielointesasanpaolo.com. Corso A signature cocktail Inghilterra, 3. T: 0114387837. Map B4 Want an aperitivo or after-dinner drink at an exceptional location that serves irresistible, beautifully presented APERITIVI cocktails? You’ll find both at Smile Tree in Turin. By Giulia Minero Ballantine’s Established in 1971, this was the first American Bar ever opened in Italy. A reference point in the hy limit yourself to a traditional containers, chosen to highlight the aromatic centre of the city for aperitivi, it offers a great cocktail when you can sample a notes of the ingredients, is presented like a selection of wines and cocktails but also fresh fruity signature cocktail customized work of art. The cocktail list features a variety of non-alcoholic drinks for teetotalers. Also a popular W lunchtime spot. Open Mon-Sat 8am-noon; Sun for you? Smile Tree, one of the trendiest fabulous options including ‘Buenos Dias’ with 5pm-10pm. Corso G. Matteotti, 25. T: 011 5628849. It’s Vermouth hour! destinations in Turin for lovers of mixology, tequila, mezcal, a blood orange liqueur, coffee, Map D5 The history of vermouth is inextricably linked to Turin, although as with any historic recipe, and those in search of a cocktail infused with chocolated-flavoured bitters, cardamom and there are uncertainties about who created this drink. So what exactly is vermouth? It’s wine Beena unconventional flavours, was founded and white chocolate foam or non-alcoholic choices This venue offers a delectable Indian-style aromatized with plants, roots and spices, including mugwort, chincona, rhubarb and vanilla. inspired by this philosophy. Located in the heart like ‘Lanterna Verde’ made with grapefruit apericena (more than an aperitivo and less than a ADVERTORIALWhen distiller Antonio Benedetto Carpano developed this recipe at the end of the 18th of the Quadrilatero Romano, with an outdoor juice, cucumber extract, mint leaves, green dinner). Instead of a buffet, the menu includes a century, he had the foresight to send a case to the court of King Vittorio Amedeo III, who area facing onto a charming square behind the Tabasco with hot chili pepper and millefiori, all cocktail and seven appetizers, served at your table liked it so much that Vermouth soon became a national drink as well as an indispensable and cooked while you wait in a traditional Tandoori Santuario della Consolata, this cocktail bar with accompanied by fresh and dried fruit, vegetable ingredient of legendary cocktails, including the Negroni and the Manhattan. After years of oven. A full immersion into the aromas and flavours its dim lighting and elegant ambience offers chips and tasty vegan dishes. of India.Open Tues-Sun 6pm-2am. www.beena.it. Via obscurity, when it was outshone by more fashionable drinks, Vermouth has made a comeback a well-stocked list of dry, semi-dry, bitter-sweet Lombroso, 22. T: 349 7078645. Map F7 and now, thanks to its retrò appeal, it is especially popular with younger cocktail aficionados. or salty cocktails, designed to suit the individual >> Smile Tree La Drogheria How should you drink it? It can be served straight up, or with ice and a slice of lemon, either as tastes of its clientele. Particular attention is Piazza della Consolata, 9C. Tucked away under the arcades of piazza Vittoria, an aperitivo, but also as an after-dinner digestif. In Turin, it can be sampled at several places, focused on presentation. Each drink, served in T: 331 1848136. Map E2 La Drogheria is a stylish cocktail bar with an including the historic Caffè Mulassano, in Piazza Castello (www.caffemulassano.com). glasses, ampoules or beautifully–shaped glass www.smiletreetorino.com international feel. The atmosphere is just right and

38 WHERE TURIN I JUNE 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 39 MUSEUMS & FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS Allianz Juventus Stadium to the above, this must-visit museum offers a shopping mall, where you can admire the spiral Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, the fabulous program of major exhibitions by Italian ramp that leads to the autodrome (www.8gallery. it) and the ‘Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli’, Allianz Stadium is the sixth largest stadium in Italy and international artists. The Art Library and the a small art gallery packed with masterpieces. On and the largest in Piedmont. Better known as the Photographic Archives of Turin’s Civic Museums are exiting the Pinacoteca you can visit the rooftop test Juventus Stadium, it is owned by the Juventus headquartered at GAM. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. track and admire the ‘Bolla’, the bubble-shaped, Football Club whose home matches have been Closed on Monday. Museum full ticket price: €10. blue glass meeting room. The old Carpano plants, played here since 2011, the year when the facility www.gamtorino.it. Via Magenta, 31. T: 011 4429518. Map C5 lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now was opened. One of the most avant-garde, eco- occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. (www.eataly. compatible facilities in the world, in addition to J-Museum (Juventus Museum) net). Lingotto: Via Nizza, 294. being one of the two architectural symbols of Located in the Allianz Stadium complex, in the Off Map modern-day Turin, the Stadium is one of the city’s northwestern area of Turin, the J-Museum is Mole Antonelliana major hubs of tourist attraction. The complex dedicated to the history and triumphs of the The Mole has been an architectural landmark of the also houses Area 12, a shopping mall featuring a Juventus Football Club. Opened in 2012, it is one city since 1889. Named after its creator, architect hypermarket, shops and several restaurants. The of the world’s best and most innovative sports Alessandro Antonelli, the Mole was purchased by J-Museum, the first official football museum of the museums. State-of the-art technology, memorabilia the Municipality of Turin and made into a monument ‘bianconera’ team is hosted inside the east area. and an adrenalin-filled atmosphere offer fans a of national unity. At the time of its construction it www.juventus.com/it/stadium-e-museum. Corso unique, memorable experience. By purchasing a was the highest brick building in Europe, standing Gaetano Scirea, 50. T: 899 999897. combined Museum and Stadium Tour ticket you can at a height of 167 metres. Built according to eclectic Off Map also visit several areas of the Allianz Stadium that 19th century architectural techniques, the Mole are generally off-limits to the public. Open from 16 Basilica di Superga rises through layers of windows and pseudo- September to 15 March, Mon-Fri 10.30am-6pm; Sat- Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II as a Greek columns to a huge ribbed cupola and a Sun and Holydays 10.30am-7.30pm. Closed on 25 thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s needlelike spire. On the top, a twelve-pointed December and every Tuesday (unless matchday). deliverance from the French siege of 1706, star is silhouetted against the Turinese skyline. The ticket office closes one hours before the the Basilica is one of the many masterpieces Inside, a panoramic, glass elevator takes visitors museum. Matchday opening hours: see official site. by architect Filippo Juvarra, who designed it on a ride through the roof of the museum’s vast Full ticket price: €15. www.juventus.com/it/stadium- according to the style of the era with a colonnaded atrium and up 85 metres inside the tower to the e-museum. Via Druento 153. T: 011 4530486. portico, cloisters (the building still houses a friars’ 360-degree observation platform at the top of Off Map convent) and a dome. Situated on one of the the cupola. The view of Turin and its surrounding hills surrounding Turin and framed by the Alpine Lingotto Alpine range is absolutely spectacular. Visitors mountain range, the Basilica dominates the city This complex of cream coloured concrete and glass can also access the panoramic deck on foot by and offers visitors a breathtaking view that is even buildings, built in 1916, based on a project by Matté climbing the 573 steps located inside the cavity of more stunning when viewed from the top of the Trucco to house the FIAT factory (now FCA), still the cupola (by reservation from Monday to Friday, dome (131 steps). After visiting the tombs of the symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by and without reservation on Saturdays, Sundays and Savoy family, the Popes’ chamber and the royal Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it now hosts the pavilions public holidays). Since 2000, the Mole Antonelliana apartments, you can walk around the building to of Lingotto Fiere, the headquarters of major events has hosted the National Museum of Cinema. Via see the memorial that pays tribute to the ‘Grande including Automotoretrò (www.automotoretro. Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138563. Torino’. In 1949, a plane carrying the entire Turin it) and the International Book Fair; the ‘8 Gallery’ Map H4 football team on their return from an away match crashed into the side of the church, killing all on board. Although the Basilica can be reached by car © ARTOFPHOTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM or public transport, one of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, an original 1934 tram which rattles the 3km up the hillside. Strada Basilica di Superga, 73. T: 011 8997456. Tramway: Piazza Modena, 6. Off Map Regal settings Castello di Rivoli - Museo d’Arte Contemporanea A Savoy royal residence for centuries, Villa della Regina is a baroque gem that you shouldn’t miss when visiting Turin. The headquarters of Turin’s Museum of Its spaces, hosting exquisite works of art and lavish ornamentations, are an absolute ‘must’. By Giulia Minero Contemporary Art since 1984, the Castello di Rivoli, a masterpiece of Baroque art designed by Filippo Juvarra in 1718, is located outside the erched on a hill behind the church of Seiter, Corrado Giaquinto and Giovanni Battista >> Villa della Regina city, at the entrance to Val di Susa. The museum offers a rich collection of works documenting the the Gran Madre di Dio, Turin’s Villa della Crostato, and its royal apartments, still decorated Strada Comunale Santa Margherita, 79. latest artistic trends. Highlights include works by PRegina dominates the surrounding with most of their original furnishings. The Sala T: 011 8194484. Off map. Sol Lewitt, Richard Long, Michelangelo Pistoletto, landscape with sumptuous elegance. The Villa is della Libreria, featuring exquisite boiserie, www.residenzereali.it - Transavanguardia, Maurizio Cattelan, Vanessa accessed via a long avenue dotted with vineyards, gilded wood sculptures, oriental majolica polomusealepiemonte.beniculturali.it Beecroft, as well as new generation artists. Open Tues-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. Closed on an Italianate garden and an elliptical terrace with vases and striking Chinese Cabinets in gold, Monday, 1 January, 1 May, 24-25 and 31 December. a staircase. Fashioned in typical Baroque style, this lacquered wood is particularly noteworthy. Full ticket price: €8.50. www.castellodirivoli.org. 17th century country residence, built by Prince After touring its interiors, make sure to take a Piazza Mafalda di Savoia, Rivoli. T: 011 9565280. Cardinal Maurizio di Savoia for his wife Ludovica leisurely stroll through its gardens. Built on three Off Map di Savoia, is revealed in all its splendour. Credit levels, they are enhanced with vineyards, woods, GAM - Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e for its name, majestic spaces, décor, furnishings pavilions, niches housing statues and fountains. Contemporanea and lush gardens is owed first and foremost to The Belvedere Superiore, a monumental GAM boasts an extraordinary collection of MUSEO DELLA FRUTTA Ludovica, who chose it as her favourite residence, amphitheatre embellished by the playful waters 45,000 works by renowned 19th and 20th-century Italian and European artists, including Balla, and later to Anne of Orleans. Listed as UNESCO of the Fontana del Mascherone, one of the The showpiece of the museum in the San Salvario district is a unique collection of 1,000 Severini Boccioni, De Chirico, Dix, Ernst and Klee. pieces of plastic fruit: apples, pears, peaches, apricots, plums and grapes. Real works of art World Heritage Site, the Villa’s main attractions numerous architectural features reflecting Highlights include paintings, sculptures, drawings, created in the 19th century by Francesco Garnier Valletti, a brilliant, eccentric artisan, artist are its imposing rooms embellished with works the tastes and prestige of the Savoy court, installations, videos and photos, plus one of the and scientist. www.museodellafrutta.it of art by 17th century artists including Daniel completes the whole. most important collections of video art. In addition

40 WHERE TURIN I JUNE 2019 © ILLPAXPHOTOMATIC/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM www.wheretraveler.com 41 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

Musei Reali and famous advertising campaigns and to explore the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and In 2014, in-depth restorations allowed all the everything related to Lavazza’s history and coffee Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site (www. EDITOR’S buildings in the complex, the Royal Palace, the production. In order to access the museum’s residenzereali.it). The park sometimes hosts events Museo Egizio TIP Musei Reali Armoury, the Royal Library, the Archaeological numerous interactive sections, visitors are provided such as ‘Terra Madre-Salone del Gusto’ (Mother Museum, the Savoy Gallery, Palazzo Chiablese A Savoy residence until 1865, Turin’s Royal with a Lavazza espresso cup at the entrance. This Earth Tasting Festival www.salonedelgusto.com and, lastly, the Royal Gardens to be connected. Museums are one of the largest and most iconic object is designed to activate the installations or the ‘Salone dell’Automobile’ (Turin Car Show) Visitors are now able enjoy a unique museum tour, diverse museum complexes in Europe. and unlock multimedia content across the museum. www.parcovalentino.com. Park: Corso Massimo comprising a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. of The sheer size of the complex and collections Open Wed-Sun 10am-6pm (last admission 5.30pm). D’Azeglio / Valentino Castle: Viale Mattioli, 39 / exhibition space and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. housed therein easily rival those of other Closed on 15 August. Full ticket price: 10 €. museo. Town and Medieval Castle: Viale Virgilio, 107 / The origins of the Royal Museums date back to 1563, major European royal residences. A unique lavazza.com. Via Bologna, 32A. T: 011 2179621. Botanical Gardens: Viale Mattioli, 25. Map G7 when Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved tour devoted to history, art and nature, Map H1 the capital from Chambéry to Turin. This marked Piazza San Carlo comprising a 3km route of exhibition spaces the beginning of a major urban transformation and Museo Nazionale del Cinema Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, and seven hectares of gardens. the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which The National Museum of Cinema, housed in the piazza San Carlo was commissioned by Marie now include artifacts dating from the prehistoric Mole Antonelliana, is one of the world’s most Christine of France in true Parisian style. It is ARMERIA REALE - More than 5,000 era to the present time. Between the 17th and 18th important film museums. Featuring a unique, a rectangle of perfect proportions with an equestrian statue – the so-called ‘Caval’d Brons’ - objects dating from the Prehistoric era to the centuries, the appearance of the residence, with the vertical layout, this ‘temple of cinema’ spirals upwards through several exhibition levels, of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre 20th century, one of whose most important imposing Royal Palace at its centre, was expanded creating a spectacular display of its extraordinary and on its southern side, facing the Porta Nuova sections comprises an impressive collection and changed, thanks to the work of several of the era’s most illustrious architects. A Savoy Residence collections through an evocative, interactive Station, a twin pair of Baroque churches, San of 16th century arms and amour. until 1865, the Royal Museums are now owned by the itinerary. In addition to a vast film library Carlo and Santa Christina. The former was built in BIBLIOTECA REALE – One of the city’s Italian government. On-site amenities include a food containing more than 7,000 titles, the museum 1639 based on a project by architect Amedeo di most important cultural institutions, court in the former Regia Frutteria. offers collections dedicated to the archaeology of Castellamonte, while building on the latter began it houses over 200,000 books, antique www.museireali.beniculturali.it. Piazzetta Reale, 1. cinema, the ‘Aula del Tempio’ (Temple Room), the in 1619 (its façade was designed by Juvarra and maps, engravings and drawings, including Map F3 focal heart of the museum, with areas dedicated to dates back to 1715). Piazza San Carlo is flanked Leonardo da Vinci’s famous ‘Self Portrait’. the great genres of cinematic history. Don’t miss by seemingly endless elegant porticoes housing Museo della Sindone big-name fashion boutiques. The square is located CAPPELLA DELLA SINDONE – Recently the ‘Rampa’ (the Ramp) which, like a movie, unfolds Housed in the crypt of the church of SS. Sudario, this to reveal the dome, offering a breathtaking view in the middle of the partly pedestrianized arterial re-opened after a long and complex fascinating museum documents one of the most over the museum from above, the ‘Macchina del road of via Roma which, with its arcaded shops restoration, until the 1990s, the chapel, a studied objects in human history: the Sindone, the Cinema’ (the Movie Machine), an area dedicated and cafés, connects the Station of Porta Nuova Baroque masterpiece, housed the Sindone, famous ‘Holy Shroud’ a linen cloth which according to the film industry and the ‘Galleria dei Manifesti’ to piazza Castello. Piazza San Carlo is home to now preserved in the Cathedral of Turin. to tradition Christ was wrapped in when deposed (the Poster Gallery). Open 9am-8pm, Sat 9am- several of the city’s best-known cafés and pastry GALLERIA SABAUDA - Spread over from the cross. The museum provides visitors with 11pm. Closed on Tues shops. Make sure to try the blends on offer at Have you heard of Jean-François headquarters – the imposing Palazzo four levels of exhibition space, the gallery information about its provenance and history (from www.museocinema.it. Mole Antonelliana. Via Caffè San Carlo, the pastries of Caffè Torino or the Champollion? A French archaeologist delle Accademia delle Scienze, dating showcases approximately 500 masterpieces the second half of the 5th century when it became Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138560-011 8138561. chocolates and candies of Stratta. Map F4 and Egyptologist and the director of the back to the 17th century – the museum is the property of the House of Savoy), as well as by Italian, Dutch, Flemish and European Map H4 Egyptian sector of the Louvre in Paris, extremely modern in terms of both its layout the various theories and mysteries surrounding it. Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli artists displayed in chronological order from Other highlights include the objects and paintings OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni Archistar Renzo Piano designed what he referred he is the man who deciphered and immersive visitor experience. the 14th to 20th centuries. displayed during Public Ostensions (cyclical From a former rail repair workshop to a new hub to as a ‘treasure trove’, a captivating space located the mystery of hieroglyphics Remodelled by Oscar-winning set on the rooftop of Turin’s Lingotto building, formerly GIARDINI REALI - Extending over showings of the Shroud). Open daily 9am-Noon, of contemporary culture and innovation. Opened through the Rosetta Stone designer Dante Ferretti in 2015, approximately seven hectares of land, 3pm-7pm. Full ticket price: €6. www.sindone.it/ in 2017, following a major renovation, this majestic, the headquarters of the first Fiat (now FCA) in 1822. It is also thanks to the exhibition space was doubled, and located in the centre of the city, these museo. Chiesa del SS. Sudario, via San Domenico, late 19th century industrial complex in the heart of automotive factory. This intimate gallery hosts a Champollion’s expertise following massive renovations, beautiful gardens testify to the city’s history 28. T: 011 4365832. Map E2 Turin has become a meeting place for contemporary permanent exhibition showcasing the personal collection of late Fiat head Giovanni Agnelli and and former opulent splendour. Due to culture. The venue hosts a rich program of that we owe the defining and is now spread over four Museo Egizio exhibitions, performances, concerts – both classical his wife Marella. Here you can admire a unique ongoing renovations, today only a portion of statement: “The road to levels, three above ground and Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian and electronic – as well as events dedicated to collection of seven paintings by Matisse, a 1913 Memphis and Thebes one below ground, organized the garden are open for public viewing. museum in the world and the second in terms of theatre, dance and the performing arts. Other painting by Balla dedicated to the theme of speed, MUSEO DI ANTICHITÀ - The most the value and quality of its treasures outside of initiatives include workshops, start-ups and as well as masterpieces by Severini, Modigliani passes through Turin.” in chronological order. important archaeological finds unearthed Cairo. It was founded in 1824, when king Carlo presentations. Open Thurs-Sun 11am-7pm; Fri 11am- and Tiepolo. The collection also includes works When mentioning Here you’ll find mummies, in the city and throughout Piedmont are Felice of Savoy purchased the collection from art 8pm. www.ogrtorino.it. Corso Castelfidardo, 22. by Canaletto, Bellotto, Picasso, Renoir, Manet and Turin, he was referring tombs, papyrus sheets and expert Bernardino Drovetti. It is housed inside the Cano. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm (last entrance housed in the new underground space lying T: 011 4365832. Map G4 to its unique and everything related to ancient adjacent to the ruins of the Roman Theatre. historic Palazzo dell’Accademia delle Scienze, built 6.15pm). Closed on Monday and on 24 and 25 in the 17th century by architect Guarino Guarini. In Parco del Valentino extraordinary Egypt (included embalmed PALAZZO REALE - Majestic staircases, December. Open 10am-3pm on 31 December and 2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum Located on the banks of the River Po, this is the 3pm-7pm on 1 January. Full ticket price (Permanent Egyptian Museum, animals) from the Paleolithic lavishly decorated rooms, carved ceilings, was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer city’s largest and most popular park. Spread over Collection + Temporary Exhibition): €10. www. the world’s first to the Coptic era. If you’re so stuccoes, delicately gilded furniture and Dante Ferretti. The exhibition space is spread over a surface area of 550,000 sq.m, the park’s interior pinacoteca-agnelli.it. Entrance: Lingotto ‘8 Gallery’. Egyptian museum overwhelmed that you don’t frescoes. An impressive feat of significant five floors and houses more than 37,000 artifacts houses numerous treasures including the Castello Via Nizza, 230/103. T: 011 0062713. artistic and architectural value, and the ranging from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. The del Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site, Off Map founded in 1824, the know where to begin your official residence of the Savoy family until archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean-François now home to the Politecnico di Torino’s faculty second in terms of the tour, get an audio guide. It’s free Teatro Regio 1865, the Royal Palace was expanded and Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and of architecture; the Medieval Village and Castle, value and number of and allows you to choose and faithful 19th century reconstructions based on Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II and changed thanks to the work of several of Thebes passes through Turin’. Make sure to arm artifacts (around 40,000) personalize your itinerary to suit the model of Piedmont and Valdostano castles, designed by Filippo Juvarra, the Teatro Regio was Turin’s most illustrious architects and artists yourself with an audio guide: it’s free and enables you to tailor the itinerary of your visit according to and the Botanical Gardens, established in 1729 inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, outside of Cairo, and individual requirements. A tip? between the 18th and 19th centuries. your requirements. Open Tues-Sun 9am-6.30pm, for educational purposes and open to the public and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo the eighth most widely The Restoration Area on the first PALAZZO CHIABLESE - The rooms Mon 9am-2pm. Full ticket price: €15. since 1995. Tactile tours of the facility for blind Mollino, the only part of the original building visited museum in Italy. floor that allows visitors to watch on the ground floor of Palazzo Chiablese, that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO www.museoegizio.it. Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6. or partially sighted visitors are also available. The British newspaper animal mummies being restored. an 18th century building that, over the T: 011 4406903. Map F4 Starting from Ponte Umberto I, you can walk or world heritage site. Its unusual gated access from “The Times” listed it as one centuries, was used as a residence for cycle along the river, or stroll along the park’s Piazza Castello, a ‘bronze gate’ named Odissea Museo Lavazza members of the Savoy family, house paths. The park is always open, but the Castello Musicale (Musical Odyssey) is a work by famous of the 50 best museums >> Museo Egizio Lavazza is one of the most famous and oldest brands the temporary exhibitions of the Royal del Valentino is not open to the public. The artist-sculptor Umberto Mastroianni. The Regio on the planet. Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6. of Italian coffee. During its 120 years in the industry, is one of the most important Italian theatres on Museums. Botanical Gardens can be visited from mid-April Despite its longstanding T: 011 4406903. Map F4 it has marked the history of Italy’s coffee culture with to mid-October. Together with the Reggia di the European scene, and offers an action-packed history and historic www.museoegizio.it advertisements and celebrities that have become an Venaria, Villa della Regina, Castello di Moncalieri, program of opera, ballet, symphony concerts and integral part of its public image. The museum uses a Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi and Castello other cultural activities. www.teatroregio.torino.it. circular route to focus on its creative collaborations di Rivoli, the Castello del Valentino is a part of Piazza Castello, 215. T: 011 88151. Map F3/G3

42 WHERE TURIN I JUNE 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 43 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN Emergency EUROPEAN EMERGENCY NUMBER: 112 112 is the unique European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance, Firefighters, Police. Caselle If the caller does not know where he or she Airport is, the operator will identify where the person Malpensa making the call is physically located and will pass Airport

LUCA MACELLARI this information to the emergency services. © OPEN PHARMACIES Farmacia Nizza (Via Nizza, 65. MM Nizza. T: 011 66992599). Open Mon-Sat 3pm-1pm, Sun 7:30pm-9am Farmacia Piazza Massaua (Piazza Massaua, 1/D. MM Massaua. T: 011 7793308). Open daily 24/24 Farmacia Comunale 42 (Via XX Settembre, 5. T: 011 543287). Open daily 24/24 Farmacia Comunale 25 (Porta Nuova Station. T: 011 542825). Open daily 7am-7.30pm. www.farmaciediturno.org

PASSPORTS Questura Centrale di Torino. Corso Vinzaglio, 10. T: 011 55881. www.questure.poliziadistato.it/ torino Taxi In Italy taxis cannot be flagged down as they pass you along the street; they are stationed at special taxi parking stands in most of the major squares in any city or town and at the airport and can be requested by phone. Main taxi parking Via Nizza (Porta Nuova Station), Corso Bolzano (Porta Susa Station), Piazza Castello, Piazza CLN TAXI TORINO T: 011 5737 or 5730 - www.taxitorino.it www.wetaxi.it: app available for iOS and Android, it has more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers. Taxi fares Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of €34 on the Turin Caselle Airport section starting Turin, the city of the Alps from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra The first capital of Italy, is a ‘drawing room city’ of elegant porticoes surrounded by green hills and, further fee for night or holiday travel). If the amount on the taximeter is less than €34 afield, by majestic mountains. This is Turin, a city renowned for its history, culture and natural beauties. or €39 you’ll pay the amount of the taximeter. To calculate the approximate fare of your taxi ride: urin was a Roman colony, the first and its elegant squares have given Turin the system, extends for 13.2km and only includes www.wetaxi.it/taxitorino capital of Italy and an industrial city. nickname of a ‘drawing room’ city. one line that connects the commune of Fast train network from Turin ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. Tickets can be purchased on board (only cash www.italotreno.it. payments allowed) or at several stores (a list is From its origins to the present time, With the exception of a few streets in the Collegno to the Torino Porta Nuova railway T PORTA NUOVA & PORTA SUSA STATIONS available on the website). Turin has had several different incarnations, centre, which are off-limits to traffic (including station (the city’s main railway hub) and the Turin offers fast-track access to major cities across Airports One-way ticket: €6,50 - round trip ticket: €12. each of which has left profound traces in its the Quadrilatero Romano and its shopping Torino Porta Susa station, before reaching Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Milan: TORINO CASELLE “SANDRO PERTINI” (TRN) - Sadem also provides a shuttle service from Turin architecture and urban layout. streets), the remainder of the city is open the Lingotto Fiere terminus. 1 hour • Bologna: 2 hours 20 min • Florence: (16 km from the centre of Turin). The airport, to Milan Malpensa airport. 2 hours 55 min • Venice: 3 hours 35 min • Rome: Extending over a surface area of less than to traffic and most landmark attractions are Turin boasts an enviable geographic position. at the North of Turin, is easily reachable in 25 4 hours 30 min • Naples: 5 hours 30 min. minutes by car thanks to the Turin-Caselle 150 square kilometers, crossed by the Po, the easily accessible by car. However, beware of It is surrounded by green hills that stand WHERE TIP With a Torino+Piemonte Card, you’ll The most important railway station in Turin is motorway junction. The junction is connected only pay €5 for your ticket. longest river in Italy, Turin is characterized by access regulation ‘ZTL Centrale’, which is active 715 metres above sea level, and which, in Torino Porta Nuova, in the central Corso Vittorio directly to the Tangenziale Nord and to the Taxi Torino (more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers) a checkerboard-like grid of streets that makes Mon-Fri, 7.30am-10.30am and prohibits the addition to their natural beauty, also offer Emanuele II, 58; regional, interregional, high- Turin-Milan, Turin-Aosta and Turin-Bardonecchia T: 011 5737 or 5730 - www.taxitorino.it - speed and international trains arrive at and motorways. Information desk T: 011 5676361-2. getting your bearings easy. circulation of private vehicles and parking numerous cultural and historical attractions. www.wetaxi. depart from there. www.aeroportoditorino.it One of the city’s most distinctive architectural in the centre of the city. This restriction does They can be reached in just a few minutes Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the features is its 18km of porticoes – mostly not, however, apply to taxis or chauffer driven by public transport, the Sassi-Superga tram Trains between Torino Porta Nuova and Milan • Connections to the airport Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of stop at the Torino Porta Susa station, including Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta located in the city centre – which house shops hired cars. As an alternative, you can use public or car. Turin is also an ideal base to reach €34 on the Turin-Caselle Airport section starting TGV services between Paris and Milan and other Nuova Station (on the corner between Corso from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino and cafes. Its porticoes, originally designed to transport to get around the city. These include several of Europe’s most renowned ski resorts. services using the Turin–Milan high-speed line. Vittorio Emanuele II and Via Sacchi). Every 15-30 Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra offer shade in the summer and shelter from the buses, trams and the subway (metropolitana). It is therefore not surprising that the city is TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. min, travel time approx. 45’ (4.45am-11.30pm fee for night or holiday travel). rain, snow, and sometimes the wind in winter, The ‘metropolitana’, a fully automated subway described as the ‘Capital of the Alps’. www.trenitalia.com. Mon-Sat; 5.30am-11pm Sun and holidays).

44 WHERE TURIN I JUNE 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 45 BRENTATORE CORSO VERCELLI

CORSO ALESSANDRIA CORSO

TANGENZIALE NORD TORINO

VI A PAGANELLI

Parrocchia

Santa Gianna CORSO GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI CORSO GIULIO CESARE

ANZ OL A I V S T R A D A D I D R U E N D O

S T R A D A D I D R U E N D O STRADA DI DRUENDO 500 m V I A V E R O N E S E

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VIAGIOVANNI BAT TISTAGANDINO STRAD A DE Allianz Stadium LLA CO VI NT INE V I A R E I S S R O M O L I SS A A AL CORSO VERCELLI

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VIA CARAGLIO VIA ASIETTA VIA DANTE DI NANNI PIAZZETTA VIA UMBERTO COSMO C O R S O S T A T I U N IT I I U VIA C O R S O Q U I V I A S . MANLIO VIA MASSENA Porta Nuova S E P P V IA C A V O U R IH C S E L L E N U R B O S R O C B E VIA ALFONSO BONAFOUS V I A V I N C E N Z O L A N C I A VIA ISSIGLIO R N A R D I N O PIAZZALE CORSO TRIESTE V IA D Chiesa Gran Madre Di Dio V I A S . VIA GABRIELE D'ANNUNZIO BROSIO E M B E R N A R D I N O VIA SAN PAOLO VIA CARLO ALBERTO E I VIA MARTIRI Fondazione Mario Merz DUCA D’AOSTA VIA LEGNANO Chiesa di San Massimo VIA VILLA DELLA REGINA VIA E. D'OVIDIO A Z Z IN M I PIAZZALE Stazione di Torino L L E S. Francesco di Sales Parrocchia GIAN MARIA 6 I 6 PIAZZA PIAZZA San Bernardino V I A T R I N I T À VOLONTÈ see pages 4-5 Porta Nuova C O R S O V IT T O R IO E M A N U E L E I FILIPPO Top in Town CORSO TRENTO CARLO ALBERTO VIA RODOLFO MONTEVECCHIO V I A V I N C E N Z O L A N C I A GALVAGNO DALLA CHIESA V I A C H A L L A N T VIA ALFONSO LAMARMORA VIA S. FRANCESCO DA PAOLA V I A O S A S C O VIA SEGRE CORSO DUCA D’AOSTA Chiesa CCA VIA VITTORIO AMEDEO GIOANET V I A C O G N A S S O 1 VIA LEGNANO11 V IA S . P IO V Cristiana Evangelica MOLE ANTONELLIANA 6 VILLA DELLA REGINA MUSEO NAZIONALE DELL’AUTOMOBILE VIA PAOLO SACCHI PIAZZA C O R S O L U IG I E IN A U D I VIA SALUZZO CORSO MONTE CUCCO Giardino San Paolo Giardino Caduti di L A R O BORGO PO SAN MASSIMO GENERALE GIOVANNI CAMERANA S T R A D A A N T I C A D I G R U G L I A S C O VIA GABRIELE D'ANNUNZIO Cefalonia e Corfù VIA SAN SECONDO VIA VIA VILLA DELLA RE V I A I S O N Z O VIA G.ARIMONDI CORSO GALILEO FERRARIS ROBILANT 2 VIA MARCO POLO 7 VIA VAL VIA 12 V I A ANT'ANSELMO Tempio Valdese V I A P A O L O B R A C C I N I EGYPTIAN MUSEUM TEATRO REGIO PAS ALLIANZ JUVENTUS STADIUM di Torino V I A D E L EGGIO TRENGO VIA FRATELLI CALANDRA PAOLO VIA SPALATO V IA B .G A L L IA R I VIAComunità S ISTINA BORGO V I A G O I T O CORSO TRENTO VIA LEGNANO G Stadio Primo Nebiolo Ebraica Chiesa di INA V I A S A N V I A P A O L O B R A C C I N I

San Giovanni CORSO CAIROLI V 13 VIA NIZZA 3 8 CORSO GENERALE G. GOVONE di Torino Evangelista I ROYAL MUSEUMS VIA PO PROMENADE BASILICA DI SUPERGA A TI S T R A D A A N T I C A D I G R U G L I A S C O STRADA ANTICA DI GRUGLIASCO V IA S . P IO V G A Santa Maria del 6 V I A M A LT A VIA MADAMA CR E SAN PAOLO VIA CRISTOFORO COLOMBO T Monte dei Cappuccini VIA MARCO POLO A

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VIA GIUSEPPE DI VITTORIO VIA ALFONSO LAMARMORA N A L I V I A T I R R E N O VIA FRATELLI CARLE N A N PIAZZA O V PIAZZA VIA EVANGELISTA TORRICELLI VIA ANTONIO GENOVESI Parrocchia CORSO MASSIMO D’AZEGLIO I Sacro Cuore TOMMASO G V I A A R B E VIA TOLMINO O MARMOLADA VIA NIZZA di Maria S LESNA DON FRANCO CORSO MEDITERRANEO VIA SALUZZO R C O Istituto VIA FEDERICO CAMPANA VIA MENTANA DELPIANO Suore Sacramentine Di Bergamo VIA BELFIORE VIA TOMMASO VALPERGA CALUSO Castello del Valentino CORSO ALCIDE DE GASPERI VIA O. MORGARI

VIA PRINCIPE V IA M O N F A L C O N E C O R S O C A R L O E N E L L O R O S S E L L I VIA AMERIGO VESPUCCIVIA SAN SECONDO Chiesa Luterana VIA MADAMA CRISTINA CORSO FILIPPO TURATI V I A T I R R E N O

V IA M A T E R A VIA VIA MASSENA CA VIA FERDINANDO MAGELLANO VIA GIUSEPPE PIAZZI RLE V I A V E G L I A VIA GIORGIO BIDONE V IA A D A N E G R I LARGO VIA GIAN DOMENICO CASSINI SAN SALVARIO TIRRENO CORSO RE UMBERTO CORSO RAFFAELL V IA M O N F A L C O N E VIA OSOPPOGiardino VIA ALFONSO LAMARMORA Walter V I A T I R R E N O C O R S O C A N O N I C O G I U S E P P E A L L A M A N O Ferrarotti Giardino Francesca PIAZZA O Laura Morvillo Ospedale Umberto I di Torino NIZZA V I A O R M E A

URATI V PA I O M A R O C STINA Parco del Valentino VIA MICHELANGELO BUONARROTI O VIA BELFIORE R Nizza CRI CORSO RAFFAELL S CORSO GALILEO FERRARIS C O R S O C A N O N I C O G I U S E P P E A L L A M A N O CORSO SIRACUSA O VIA PIETRO GIURIA V I A T I R R E N O M A E VIA SALUZZO N R CORSO FILIPPO T S T R D. E L G E R B ID O I DA C O O D VIA Istituto Maria Consolatrice E N GAETAN I C O O DONIZET VIA GUIDO RENI VIA GORIZIA L A TI V I A M A V IA B A R L E T T A VIA ROVERETO V IA M O N F A L C O N E VIA RICCIONE VIA FRANCESCO PETR Museo di

Giardino Cesare Parrocchia Antropologia Criminale C O R S O D A N T E Santuario ARCA CORSO MONTE LUNGO Sacro Cuore di Gesù

A E R C A I V VIA TRIPOLI Valperga di Masino VIA LAZZARO SPALLANZANI VIA FRAN Borgo Medievale V I A B A LT I M O R A CESCO PETRA CORSO ORBASSANO V IA A R Q U A T A del Valentino RC Teatro Nuovo VIA ERNESTO LUGARO VIA NIZZA VIA VINCENZO MONTI A PIAZZALE

COSTANTINO VIA SALUZZO VIA SANTA RITA FRAN Parrocchia San Giorgio Martire VIA UGO FOSCOLO IL GRANDE CESCO PETRA C O R S O S E B A S T O P O L I V IA B A R L E T T A C O R S O D A N T E A L I G H I E R I CORSO LEPANTO VIA UGO FOSCOLO R O G I U R I A T RC A IE CORSO MASSIMO D’AZEGLIO CORSO FILIPPO TURATI O R M E A V AR I A P A L O VIA VINCENZO MONTI PIAZZA A V I A P DE AMICIS VI

PIAZZA VIA ILARIONE PETITTI SANTA RITA Giardino Dante Giorgio Anglesio C O R S O D A N T E A L I G H I E R I S T R . D E L G E R B I D O V I A B A LT I M O R A DA CASCIA VIA MARIO PAGANO V IA B A R L E T T A CORSO IV NOVEMBRE VIA TIZIANO VECELLIO VIA ILARIONE PETITTI Chiesa Parrocchiale Parco Cavalieri CORSO MONCALIERI 500 m CORSO BRAMANTE STINA S. Rita da Cascia di Vittorio Veneto V IA R O B E R T O A R D IG O CRI VIA CORREGGIO Ponte Isabella M A VIA TIZIANO VECELLIO C O R S O S E B A S T O P O L I DA GERBIDO V I A F I L A D E L F I A Parco VIA ANTONIO CANOVA VIA SALUZZO Muratori I VIA GORIZIA E V I A M A L ABRERA CCHETTI I I VIA CARLO MARENCO L VIA LUDOVICO ANTONIO MURATORI A RO G VIA TOMMASO GROSSI VIA NIZZA VIA ANTONIO CANOVA O VIA LEONARDO DA VINCI M A E V I A G I O T T O L VIA BENVENUTO CELLINI VIA G. CH L I RLO A V I A B A LT I M O R A VIA VINCENZO STEFFENONE CORSO BRAMANTE A G Parco Rignon O S R V I A C

CORSO SIRACUSA O I A O R M E A C VIA LUIGI FEDERICO MENABREA V 500 m V I A C R E A PO

CORSO UNIONEVIA TUNISI SOVIETICA V IA P A O L O G A ID A N O CORSO MASSIMO D’AZEGLIO Carducci C O R S O B R A M A N T E VIA ARDUINO Molinette V I A F I L A D E L F I A

VIA TRIPOLI

CORSO GALILEO FERRARIS VIA GIORDANO BRUNO Stadio Olimpico Grande Torino di Torino Ponte Balbis

MIRAFIORI NORD A V I A C R E A M

VIA AL

E PILONETTO AZZIO S T R . D E L P O R T O N E V I A G E N O V A A S U C A R I S O S R O C VIA CHERASCO

V I A T U N I S I VIA NIZZA L L

VIA GORIZIA I VIA ST ELLONE H

VIA THONON C A V I A F I L A D E L F I A

CORSO SPEZIA O

C O R S O C O S E N Z A VIA TRIPOLI VIA VARAZZE S C O R S O E . T A Z Z O L I R

V I A B U E N O S A I R E S Spezia O C CORSO SPEZIA V IA S A N M A R IN O

VIA BRONI

CORSO GIOVANNI AGNELLI VIA C.MARTINOTTI CORSO SPEZIA VIA VARAITA

CORSO ORBASSANO CORSO MONCALIERI CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICAV I A M O N T E V I D E O PIAZZA

VIA GIULIO BIGLIERI V I A G E N O V A

CORSO COSENZA V I A TA G G I A V I A A S U N C I O N S T R . D E L P O R T O N E VIA SAN REMO VIA VENTIMIGLIA V I A T U N I S I VIA GIULIO BIGLIERI VIA LAVAGNA VIA ZINO ZINI Pinacoteca Giovanni C O R S O E N R IC O T A Z Z O L I VIA PROSPERO RICHELMY e Marella Agnelli VIA NIZZA VIA GIORDANO BRUNO

CORSO ORBASSANO CORSO EUSEBIO GIAMBONE Lingotto CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA CAVORETTO LINGOTTO Passerella Olimpica Museo dell'Automobile di Torino

VIA SPOTORNO VIA GARESSIO Lingotto PO SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO VIA VADO

CORSO ORBASSANO

VIA MILLEFONTI V I A G E N O V A SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO Lingotto Fiere CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIAVIA VENTIMIGLIA MILLEFONTI

MILLEFONTI CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA Parco Giuseppe Di Vittorio

VIA PASSO BUOLE Torre Regione Piemonte

VIA SOMMARIVA Palavela

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIA NIZZA VIA PASSO BUOLE I R E I L A C N O M O S R O C

Parrocchia Assunzione VIA O. VIGLIANI di Maria Vergine Giardino Corpo VIA VINOVO Italiano di Liberazione

C O R S O T R A IA N O V I A G E N O V A

VIA O. VIGLIANI

VIA VENTIMIGLIA

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T MIRAFIORI SUD CORSO BENEDETTO CROCE Palazzo del Lavoro VIA PIO VII CORSO PIERO MARONCELLI

VIA O. VIGLIANI CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA

V I A O N O R A T O V I G L I A N I PIAZZA CORSO FRAT. ROSSELLI

BENGASI

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

M O T R A E L E U N A M E A I V P O

Parco Colonnetti S TRA D TONA OR I

E T S E I R T O S R O C

VIA SESTRIERE S A N G O N E

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

S A N G O N E BORGARETTO

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T

VIALE TORINO NICHELINO VIA TORINO

C O R S O T R EI S T E PO

VIA BOGINO MONCALIERI

VIA TORINO

VIALE TORINO STUPINIGI

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi Parrocchia di Stupinigi

500 m

Parco Naturale di Stupinigi Where Milan Magazine

ESSENTIALS

MILANO MALPENSA (MXP) -. ZTL informations – Visitors traveling with their Your personal travel assistant now in the The airport, at the East of Turin (135 km from the own car and staying in a hotel in the central city centre), is reachable in 1 hour 30 minutes by area can enter the ZTL for the day of arrival Where Turin Magazine best hotels in Turin! car from Turin thanks to the A4 motorway. and departure only, filling out a form at the [ ONLY AT PREMIERE HOTELS ] Information desk T: 02 232323. hotel reception (ask your concierge for more www.milanomalpensa-airport.com information). • Connections to the airport In the same way it is possible to reach paid Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta public parking areas within the ZTL by filling in Nuova Station provides a shuttle service also the same parking lot with the request for transit from Turin to Milano Malpensa airport. authorization no later than 11am. FREE FREE HOTSPOT www.aeroportoditorino.it Tourist Information CALLS INTERNET WIFI CUNEO LEVALDIGI (CUF) - (65 km from the centre TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Piazza Carlo of Turin). Information T: 0172 741500 – 558. www. Felice, in front of the Porta Nuova Station. T: 011 aeroporto.cuneo.it 535181 Open daily 9am-1pm and 2pm-6pm. • Connections to the airport TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Piazza BMC Bus Shuttle service (www.bmcbus.it) available in Castello corner of Via Garibaldi. T: 011 535181. connection from Turin with departure and arrival Open daily 9am-6pm. of flights. €8 each way, we recommend buy HOTEL INFO CITY TICKETS & ticket online. www.aeroportocuneo.it Special Tours & SERVICES GUIDE by EVENTS Getting around Turin CITYSIGHTSEEING TORINO HOP ON-HOP OFF GTT – Gruppo Torinese Trasporti/Local Public Hallmark red double-decker bus offering 3 routes: Transport Company - www.gtt.to.it Line A to explore the city center and the hill; Infoline Mon-Sat 6.30am-7.30pm. Green Line T: overlooking the Po with the Valentino Park, the 800 019152; from mobile (Toll Number): T: 011 village and the medieval fortress; Bike Sharing 0672000. Line B to access various sites including the GTT Info Point and ticket - Railway Station Torino Automobile Museum, the Lingotto, the [TO]BIKE - the bike sharing [TO]Bike service offers Porta Nuova, in front of the track 20. Mon-Fri more than 140 stations scattered around the Pinacoteca Agnelli, Eataly, the Olympic sites and 5 STARS 7.15am-7pm. Sat, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. the OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni; city from which to pick up and deposit rental Allegroitalia Golden Palace – Via dell’Arcivescovado, 18 • Lost and Found on GTT vehicles: The driver Line C for the Allianz Stadium, the Reggia di bikes. Various subscription options are available: Map E4-5 and GTT personnel are not allowed to return Venaria and the La Mandria Castle. Meeting annual €25, weekly €8 or daily €5. The use is free objects found on the vehicles directly. Lost point: at any bus stop. Grandfor rides Hotel of Sitea less – than Via Carlo 30 Alberto, minutes, 35 • Mapeven F5 several articles found on GTT vehicles are taken to the Assistance at Ticket Point City Sightseeing Torino 4times STARS a day, after which the rate provided for by Lost and Found of the City of Turin, where they (Piazza Castello corner of Via Po). 8 language Acyour Hotel subscription Torino by Marriott formula – Via Bisalta,is applied 11 • Off by scalingMap can be collected after 48 hours from the time of commentary. Artthe Hotel amount Boston from Torino the – Via credit A. Massena, on the 70 •card. Off MapTo loss. The lost and found office is in Via Meucci 4. Ticket valid 24h (48h if you combine 3 lines). Artaccess Hotel theOlympic service – Via Verolengo,you need 19 to• Off be aMap credit card Mon, Wed, Thurs, 9am-12am. T: 011 4430753. Combo tickets for top Turin attractions are also Bestholder. Western For Crystal more Palaceinformation Hotel – Viaand Nizza, other 11 • typesMap E6 Purchase your ticket before you get on the bus available. Bestof subscription Western Hotel visitLuxor the – Corso website Stati Uniti, www.tobike.it 7 • Map D6 . or the tram. Ordinary ticket (€1.70) valid for 100 www.city-sightseeing.it/en/turin BestGreen Western Line Plus 800 Executive 548040. Hotel Store and [TO]Bike Suites – Via Nizza,Santa 28 minutes on buses, trams or metro. • Chiara,Off Map 26/f. Open Mon-Fri 10am-7pm. Best Western Plus Hotel Genova – Via P. Sacchi, 14/B • Map E6 MOBIKE – this ‘free floating’ system allows you Concord – Via G.L. Lagrange, 47 • Map F6 to book a bike via a smartphone App, identify Dinasty Suites – Piazza Carlo Felice, 7 • Map E5 the position of the bike nearest to you and then TORINO + PIEMONTE CARD Diplomaticleave it in – anyVia Cernaia, authorized 42 • Map parking C3 area in the city. DoubleCost: Tree1 euro by Hiltondeposit, Turin and Lingotto 0.30 –euros Via Nizza, every 230 30• Offminutes. Map For more informations visit Duparcwww.mobike.com. Contemporary Suites – Corso Massimo d’Azeglio, 21 • Off Map OFOHoliday – Ofo, Inn Turinthe worldCity Centre largest – Via station-free Assietta, 3 • Map bike D6 Hotelsharing dei Pittori company, – Corso has Regina launched Margherita, in 57 Turin. • Map I3 HotelOperating Principe across di Torino 180 – Corso cities Moncalieri, worldwide, 85 • Off Ofo’s Map Lancastermission Torinois to provide – Corso Filippo a convenient, Turati, 8 • Off affordableMap Nhand Collection low carbon Torino methodPiazza Carlina of travel. – Piazza Users Carlo Emanuele can II, 15download • Map G5 an App on their smartphone to find Nhnearby Torino bikesCentro and– Corso scan Vittorio the Emanuele QR code II, 104 located • Map B4on Nheither Torino the Lingotto frame Congress or smart – Via lock Nizza, to 262 unlock • Off them.Map NhThe Torino company’s Santo Stefano yellow – Via bikes Porta havePalatina, airless 19 • Map tyres F2-3 Novotel(to prevent Torino punctures)Corso Giulio Cesare and a – 3-speed Corso Giulio gear Cesare, shift. Costs: 0.20 euros for the first half hour; 0.30 euros 338/34 • Off Map for the second half hour; 0.50 euros for every 30 Pacific Hotel Fortino – Strada del Fortino, 36 • Off Map minutes thereafter and 5 euros per day. RUSSKYMAVERICK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Principi di Piemonte | UNA Esperienze – Via P. Gobetti, 15 • © For more informations visit www.ita.ofo.com Map F5 This card can be purchased online or at Turin’s Tourist Offices. With this pass you get OBIKEStarhotels - oBike Majestic is a –global Corso Vittorio leader Emanuele in bike-sharing II, 54 • Map E6 free entry to Turin’s most important museums and exhibitions, castles, fortresses and Thewithout Originals stations Hotel Turin offering Royal – an Corso innovative Regina Margherita, service the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont for 1*, 2, 3 or 5 consecutive days. It also 249for • Offshort Map distance transport. The platform is offers reduced-price tickets to several other cultural sites in Piedmont, discounts on TownHousecurrently 70present – Via XX on Settembre, 3 different 70 • Map continents F3 for a Turin’s main tourist services, plus other benefits. Turintotal Palace of 26 Hotel states – Via and P. Sacchi, over 840 • Map cities E6 worldwide. Victoria Torino – Via N. Costa, 4 • Map F5 For more information www.turismotorino.org The app, which can be downloaded comfortably Villaon Savoiayour smartphone, – Corso Sicilia, 1, allows angolo Corso users Moncalieri to locate • Off and Map *The one-day pass is valid for a maximum of three entries to the Turin museum circuit. rent bicycles using a completely innovative www.manetmobile.com [email protected] 48 WHERE TURIN I JUNE 2019