ON THE WILD SIDE ’s incredible WESTERN WILDERNESS

itinerary No. 5: A SEVEN-DAY INSIDER’S GUIDE TO the pioneering towns, spectacular walking trails and winding waterways of the WILD WESTERN REGION. extra $85* for travel 1 – 20 Apr, 23 – 30 Apr, 21 – 28 Dec 2012, 4 Jan – 31 Mar 2013. Savings and price are subject to change based on the time of purchase. Offer is subject to availability at time of booking. Amounts payable to third parties not included. Please check all prices, availability availability Rewards prices, all Membership to check Please available ^Only included. not booking. parties before third to payable consultant Amounts travel your with booking. of time at information other availability to and is subject Offer purchase. of time the on based change to subject are price and 21 1 2012,– 23 Apr, – 30 – 20 Apr, – 4 28 Dec 31 Jan 2013. travel Mar apply. Savings for $85* extra Conditions vary. which payments card credit for fees and/or fees service charge may *Agents Express International Inc., (ABN 15000 618 208), Incorporated with Limited Liability in Delaware, USA. ®Registered trademark of American Express Company. Stella Travel Services () Pty Limited (ABN 84 003 237 296) trading as Travelscene, Travel Agents Licence Nos NSW 2TA 2TA NSW Nos Licence Agents Travel Travelscene, as trading 296) 237 003 84 (ABN Limited 18800658. ACT TTA108, Pty SA WA 9TA284, Nos (Australia) Licence Services Agents Travel Travel Stella 296), Company. 237 003 84 Express (ABN Limited American of Pty trademark (Australia) ®Registered Services USA. Travel Stella TAG252. Delaware, in QLD 30204, VIC Liability 002558, Limited with Incorporated 618 208), 15000 (ABN Inc., International Express comforts of a lakeside cabin, a Ta a cabin, lakeside a the to of (Mountain) comfortsCradle of peaks the From life. of lows and highs the celebrate, and out, seek we where island an to Come nature. The air is cleaner, the light is sharper and your thoughts are thoughts your and sharper is light the cleaner, is air The nature. and choose your own adventure. THERE ARE PLACES IN IN PLACES ARE THERE Tasmania created for you for created heaven heaven Visit discovertasmania.com smanian wilderness experience is as much about self about much as is experience wilderness smanian Ascent Premium, Ascent, Choices Ascent, Premium, Ascent Prices & information are correct as at 07 Mar 2012 but may fl uctuate if surcharges, fees, taxes or currency change. Price is per person twin share. Airfares not included. Add an Add included. not Airfares share. twin is person per Price change. or currency taxes as at 07 2012fees, Mar fl may but correct are if surcharges, & information uctuate Prices or or Blue Sky Blue rental with GPS Valid for travel 1 May – 20 Dec 12. Valid for sale to 20 Dec 12, unless sold out prior. INCLUDES rail travel on the West Coast Wilderness Railway (return by coach) enrolled Cardmembers (an annual fee may apply). Subject to the Terms and Conditions of the Membership Rewards program. American American program. Rewards Membership the of Conditions and Terms the to Subject apply). may fee annual (an Cardmembers enrolled IS REFLECTED IS Wilderness Experience 3 nights accommodation at Strahan Village 3 nights T asmania Tasmania clearer. So, start a journey in the Western Wilderness.. Western the in journey a start So, clearer. Independently owned Independently & operated by Travelscene Ltd. Pty Sunlover Western ƒ Gordon River Cruise FROM …AND THEY’RE JUST OVER THE HORIZON. THE OVER JUST THEY’RE …AND $ 575 -discovery as it is about discovering about is it as -discovery ƒ One way premier class * TWIN SHARE TWIN PERSON PER ƒ on earth on 4 days car TSL02825_TWA4 WHERE . Hurry, availability limited! is visit visit facebook.com/travelsceneaustralia Call Call travelscene.net.au 13 TRAVEL 13 or connect to connect or 1 8) 2 7 8 (13 .

MITC7159rj Gate; up close with a with up Gate; baby close Island Lighthouse at Hells at Hells Lighthouse Island Cover: Cradle Mountain- Cradle Cover: Park. From top, Entrance From top, Entrance Park. Tasmanian Devil; rafting rafting Devil; Tasmanian the Lake St Clair National St Lake National Clair the River the Franklin

Editor’s note

oldest clonal tree in the world – a Huon pine which has been living continuously on the site for 10,500 years. Tasmania, particularly the rugged West Coast, is filled with natural and historic riches. Drive a little further

south to the fishing village of Strahan, and you’re at the gateway of World Heritage wilderness and Sarah Island, Australia’s oldest penal colony. If you’re in the area, the West Coast Wilderness Railway, stretching from wee Queenstown to Strahan, is certainly not to be missed. Give yourself plenty of time to drive around this region. The views are so spectacular that you’ll want to stop again and again to photograph them.

n one of the most lush parts of Tasmania, often hidden by mist or snow, exists a very special place. This sub-alpine pocket near the West Coast mining town of Rosebery contains the k

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Clockwise from left: sculptor Greg Duncan and his Wall in the DAY 3: west coast railway Wilderness; the West Coast Wilderness Railway; Hear the whistle blow? That’s the West trekkers pause en route to Donaghys Lookout Coast Wilderness Railway, established in 1896 but still running the 35 WEST kilometres from Queenstown to the fishing town of Strahan. The train – which climbs 200 metres, lumbers over 40 bridges and clings to the sides of AND gorges – was once the only connection with the outside world for isolated farming families. Restored to gleaming splendour, it now offers tourists a WILD glimpse of another era, albeit with a few bells and whistles – such as To experience TASMANIAN nature sparkling wine, pastries and cheeses. at its BEAUTIFUL best, YOU NEED TO In Strahan, pubs, cafes and shops DELVE DEEP into THE ISLAND’S WILD, fill leisure time. For something different, drop into Tasmanian Special western heart. WELCOME TO THE Timbers on the Esplanade, redolent APPLE ISLE, untamed. Day 1 with Huon pine, sassafras, myrtle and leatherwood. For dinner, try DERWENT BRIdGE & LAKE ST ClAIR Its moniker, the Apple Isle, may sound civilised, but beyond one of the local restaurants and enjoy Tasmania’s urbane comforts and gentle rural landscape is a Catch a morning flight into Hobart, world-class Atlantic salmon fresh wilderness that remains largely untamed. About 20 per cent then summon the willpower to leave from the waters. of the state is World Heritage listed, and away from the city this welcoming city; Tasmania’s wild Stay overnight in Strahan. lights, orchards, vineyards and lavender farms, the island side is whispering in your ear. provides a haven for native animals, plants and even tourists. Take the to Derwent For the weary there can be few more rejuvenating escapes Bridge, where the whisper is replaced – here visitors discover sparkling air, untrammelled trails, by the buzz of insects and calls of birds. Day 2: Queenstown craggy mountain vistas and soaring forests. They also find This tiny town in the heart of Tasmania Leave Derwent Bridge and take the Lyell Highway to that some parts of the world look fresh even when very is set at the southern end of Cradle Queenstown, 85 kilometres away. There’s much to enjoy ancient indeed. No one suffers deprivation on this adventure: Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park. en route. Within minutes you enter the rugged Franklin- good accommodation, fresh food and a glass of wine are all At Lake St Clair, encircled by towering Gordon Wild Rivers National Park. Stop where the part of the Tasmanian landscape. The roads are excellent peaks, a ferry ride from Cynthia Bay Franklin River crosses the highway and take the Franklin too. Out here the nearest thing to a traffic jam is the to Narcissus Bay provides an River Nature Trail, an easy one-kilometre walk through occasional lumbering echidna slowing things down. awe-inspiring introduction to the wild. striking temperate rainforest. Further along is Donaghys Our foray into the western wilderness takes you from The 26-kilometre round trip also gives Lookout, a stunning point overlooking the Franklin and Hobart through the centre of the state – and towns such you a relaxing break from driving. Collingwood Rivers junction that’s accessed via a 40- as Queenstown, with its rugged mining history – before Back in Derwent Bridge, drop into minute return walk. Notice , with its emerging at the coast in the scenic fishing settlement of The Wall in the Wilderness, where artist 1443-metre white quartzite peak dominating the view. Strahan. From here the route turns back inland, towards Greg Duncan has given himself the Queenstown has a moonscape quality that’s easily legendary Cradle Mountain, before following a foodie trail mission of sculpting 100 metres of seen from Lookout, set above an old open- that finishes, appropriately enough, in Launceston. Offering wood into carvings that serve as a cut mine off the Lyell Highway. Steel your nerves for excellent cafes and restaurants, it’s the perfect place to narrative of Tasmanian history. the Mine Tour, on which visitors head nine celebrate the end of your journey with a long, lazy lunch. Stay overnight in Derwent Bridge. kilometres underground in a four-wheel drive vehicle. Enjoy a pub dinner before bedding down for the night.

with Strahan Village & Cruise from $210* Tasmania ESCAPE REALITY AND LIVE YOUR dreams. ��� WCTOURING � NIGHT SELF DRIVE HOLIDAYS FROM PP TWIN SHARE Stay two nights at Strahan Village, your gateway to explore the World $799* Join us in the wild west... Heritage Area, and take a journey through ancient rainforest on the Gordon River Cruise. Take advantage of our bonus offer – buy one ticket and get one free on the fully restored West Coast Wilderness Railway. Enjoy a full buffet breakfast each day. ... AND IT’S ONLY A HEARTBEAT AWAY. Want to explore Tasmania? Call 1800 238 720 to speak with one of Pure Tasmania’s experts to plan and How far do you have to travel to be surrounded by ancient wilderness? When you visit Tasmania’s western wilderness, nature’s best is right outside your door. This very special off er includes 7 nights accommodation book your holiday, or visit puretasmania.com.au at Innkeeper Hotels, 7 days car rental, National Parks Pass plus BONUS of $75 Free Petrol. *Off er valid from 1 May – 19 September 2012. Price shown is per person twin share, accommodation is room only. Terms and conditions apply. * Per person, twin share. Valid to 20/12/12. Subject to availability, conditions apply. GS095. Call 1300 innkeeper or visit www.innkeeper.com.au 20508 the weekend australian magazine advertorial From top: cruising the Gordon River; the Gaiety Theatre at . Opposite page, from Clockwise, from top left: left: a spa suite at Cradle “The sublime Gordon River provides a highlight Breathing Rock, just one Mountain Lodge; one of Bruny Island’s natural of Cradle Mountain’s of the region’s picturesque landscape” wonders; built into the many scenic walks — Jennine Wesson, Discover Tasmania blog banks of the Derwent, MONA was designed to be talked about; the city’s shimmering docks; Mine of information Want to learn more about the region’s rough-and-tumble past? Drop into the West Coast Pioneers Memorial Museum at Zeehan, open 9am to 5pm daily, where you’ll find absorbing photo galleries chronicling the history of all the Day 4 West Coast towns. MAcQUARIE HARbOUR, sTRAHAN Strahan is a lovely place to wake up, especially if you have a view of Macquarie Harbour. Have breakfast early and start the day with a cruise DAY 7: to launceston of the Gordon River. Tours depart daily at If you find it hard to leave Cradle 8.30am and take in the narrow entrance to the Mountain, you’re not alone. After Southern Ocean called Hells Gate as well as breakfast, why not take a short walk the convict settlement of Sarah Island. that will at least leave you with fond The Gordon River, with its tannin-stained memories? The King Billy Track starts dark water and surrounding rainforest, at Cradle Mountain Lodge and takes provides a glimpse into prehistory, and an about 40 minutes, passing through elevated walkway on shore allows passengers sassafras, myrtle and 1500-year-old an intimate wilderness experience. Lunch is King Billy pines. Pademelons and served on board and you’ll be back in Strahan Day 6: Cradle Mountain wombats are often seen here. by 2.15pm. Relax in town or take the three- Drive towards Deloraine, passing kilometre walk to pretty Hogarth Falls in Leave the Tarkine and head to Waratah, a good For more wild experiences, head first to through Mole Creek – where you can People’s Park. Another way to wile away the Day 5: place to stop en route to Cradle Mountain and Devils@Cradle, where you’ll find Tasmanian Devils visit richly hued limestone caves and afternoon is to take a taxi to dramatic Ocean Say goodbye to unspoiled Strahan. Return to Queenstown by bus to collect your car, then turn north where, oddly, you’ll find a waterfall in the centre that are both disease-free and adorably photogenic. the Trowunna Wildlife Park, containing Beach, six kilometres away, and walk back to Zeehan, 45 kilometres away. You may not have heard of this unassuming town, but in 1882 it had of town. While here, visit the Waratah Museum, Then push on to The Wilderness Gallery at Cradle five habitats that are home to native into town. Pounded by huge Southern Ocean the third-largest population in Tasmania, thanks to the discovery of silver. Who knows – perhaps celebrating the days when this was the wealthiest Mountain Chateau. Surrounded by native bush, it animals. By now food will be a priority, waves, this 33-kilometre stretch of coast is 10,000 people actually needed 27 pubs. Mining has again put Zeehan on the map, but zinc and lead tin mining town in the southern hemisphere. features the work of Australia’s top photographers, so head towards the foodie haven of too wild for swimming but from October to haven’t sparked the same party-town atmosphere. No matter. The 19th-century ambience has its own Drive south-east for about 60 kilometres to the its beautiful and thought-provoking exhibitions Launceston. Stop at The Honey Farm, April makes a perfect home for the migratory appeal. Check out the Gaiety Theatre, which once hosted Dame Nellie Melba and Enrico Caruso. iconic Cradle Mountain. Stretch your legs with a concentrating on threatened landscapes. Chudleigh, where you’ll find a variety shearwaters known as Mutton Birds. And don’t miss the West Coast Pioneers Memorial Museum, which contains an eclectic mix of photos, walk around Dove Lake, possibly the most beautiful One of the great things about Cradle Mountain of products including excellent ice Be back at the West Coast Visitor mining machinery and a world-class mineral collection. Mourn the pubs, which have mostly disappeared. sight in Tasmania on a sunny day. This track is level, is its blend of wilderness and city-style luxury, so cream, then continue east, pausing Information Centre by 5.30pm for Tasmania’s Drive on up to Corinna, 50 kilometres away on the Pieman River. Once a gold-rush town with 2500 only six kilometres long and supremely satisfying finish a crowded day with a visit to Waldheim for lunch at 41°South, a salmon and longest-running play, The Ship That Never people, it’s now just a nod to civilisation on the edge of the Tarkine wilderness. More precious than gold with its views to sigh for (the renowned Overland Alpine Spa at Cradle Mountain Lodge, where ginseng farm with a cafe. Fly home Was, a light-hearted account of a convict are the natural treasures on offer here. Stroll the boardwalk by the Pieman River and see rare, huge Huon Track represents the opposite end of the spectrum, your weary muscles will be soothed and revived. with enough goodies to remind you escape from Sarah Island. pine trees that have somehow escaped being reduced to salad bowls. Kayaking is an energetic option here. taking five days in more remote terrain). Stay overnight on Cradle Mountain. that a walk on Tasmania’s wild side Stay overnight in beautiful Strahan. Stay overnight in Corinna, where blissful silence ensures peaceful repose. also offers some delicious treats. •

* ��� WCSTAY with a quick Cradle Escape from $178 Tasmania’s WILDERNESS Enjoy the comfort of Cradle Mountain Chateau, with its roaring � NIGHTS ACCOMMODATION IN STRAHAN log fi res and cosy atmosphere. Your package includes one night’s AND CRUISE FROM PP accommodation, full breakfast and a two-course dinner featuring $269* Explore our Cradle Mountain... Tasmania’s fi nest produce at Grey Gum restaurant. Also included ... AND IT’S JUST ACROSS THE WATER. is free entry to see some of the world’s fi nest photography at the Wilderness Gallery and a Night with the Animals guided tour.

How far do you have to travel to be surrounded by ancient wilderness? When you visit Tasmania’s western wilderness, nature’s best is right outside your door. This very special off er includes 2 nights accommodation on the Want to explore Tasmania? Call 1800 238 720 to waterfront at Innkeepers Risby Cove with cooked breakfast, welcome port and chocolates, and a full day cruise onboard World Heritage Cruises with a complimentary upgrade to Premium Class window seating and buff et speak with one of Pure Tasmania’s experts to plan and lunch. *Off er valid from 1 May – 30 September 2012. Price shown is per person twin share, accommodation is room only. NB Cruise does not operate 15 June – 15 August 2012. Accommodation only package can be provided. Terms and conditions apply. book your holiday, or visit puretasmania.com.au * Per person, twin share. Valid to 20/12/12. Subject to availability, Call 1300 innkeeper or visit www.innkeeper.com.au conditions apply. GS095. 20508