   Contents / Inhoudsopgawe

1. Dear Friends 2 2. : Long Forgotten? 4 3. Graaff-Reinetse Sprokie 10 4. The Early Years of Aberdeen 11 5. Huis van Storms, Stryd en Smarte 19 6. Words to Ponder.... 20

ARTIKELS / ARTICLES: ANZISKE KAYSTER, JOHANNES HAARHOFF & HERMI BAARTMAN

REDIGERING / EDITING: PETER WHITLOCK DRUKWERK EN PRODUKSIE / PRINTING & PRODUCTION: DENISE VAN WYK, KATRIENA BOOYSEN & VALERINE UITHALER VERSPREIDING/ DISTRIBUTION: JAMES VAN RHYNERS & ZENEVIN ISAKS

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going out onto the bakkies just because we could. My father’s long time pals in Summer Holiday is not in my list of words Lamberts Bay, Uncle Willem and associated with the end of the year and Uncle Joubert, would see to it that the festive season. snoek, harders and crayfish were We rarely went where the sun was aplenty, and although we were never shining and the sea was blue. Not allowed the luxury of crayfish tails, everybody went on a summer holiday, we extracted that white succulent not everybody discarded their troubles meat from spindly crayfish legs as if for a week or two. No, we did not go on born to it. My Titte presided over the a summer holiday nor did we do the cooking of these creatures and would things that we always wanted to do. Yes, often call us to listen to their wailing we rarely went on the summer holiday whilst cooking in a church bazaar pot. that made our dreams come true. And just like that, our camping Instead, most of the families in our street experience magnified into the most (and all our friends from high school) wonderful time of the year, never mind packed in tents and gas stoves for a the Gollywog hair brought on by temporary move to Kogel Bay (just spending so much time in the sea. I around the corner). We also commuted later discovered that the Gollywog was between Wellington and Kraaifontein a black doll with frizzy hair and clown visiting our extended family on days lips, but instead of being offended, I when my mom had a short respite from applauded my Dad’s ingenuity as even Karl Bremer Hospital. She was a nurse, our dog Toby barked at me upon our of course, and devoted long hours to ease return home. Our family regarded it as the pain and suffering of others. sacrilege to spend Christmas or New When I was very little, about four or Year’s Day at a camping site and we five, we also embarked on the rare always departed in time for the massive exodus to sun, sea and sand. Christmas morning church service in In our case it was Lamberts Bay, Wellington. I suppose the extravagant Mossel Bay or Waenhuiskrans where Christmas lunch to follow was also we joined the ablution block crowd taken into consideration. and sacrificed our privacy for two The tent with the hole in it, and the weeks of swimming furiously, eating smell of gas, was later replaced with periwinkles cooked in seawater and 2 short pre-Christmas trips to Soverby, Sometimes my grandmother was blessed the farm of my grandmother’s roots. with a live chicken in a small coop. No, her family were never farm Chicken and I would eye each other owners, but the family home with a warily on the return trip home. The kraal out on the koppies and a dam, had boot was normally filled with goat and been in our family for generations and sheep. Back home, the plums would be said to have belong to the first Swart blushing, ready for picking as soon as we (as in the surname) girl who defied her returned. family to marry a person of colour. Some days the whole family: aunts, Notwithstanding the visits to Soverby, uncles, cousins, nephews, nieces and the constant longing for family, and a grandparents, would pack picnic home rarely seen, became too much for lunches and travel to Strandfontein or my grandmother to endure and the St. James’ Beach. My grandmother yearning eventually culminated in a would don her crimplene bathing nine-hour long trip to Keimoes in my costume and swimming cap, a la Grace grandparents’ Volkswagen Variant. Kelly, and my grandfather and his Jack My grandfather had a small herd of goats Russel would enthusiastically run along and a little flock of sheep on Soverby. the beach; they were so alike – he and his They flourished and thrived during the dog. At the end of the day we were year under the watchful eye of Oom exhausted, especially my little brother Demas, blissfully unaware of their fate at who acted as chaperone for my sister the Wellington Christmas dinner table. and I, standing at attention with the On the farm, we would help ourselves to beach towel as soon as we exited the mounds of lentils and raisins, on the water. As teenage girls, our behaviour bordered on the bizarre! stalk, as we as the Gekomdes were treated like royalty. Sometimes a wedding, and Christmas Eve and New Years Day were sadly, a funeral, was thrown in the mix. the the highlight of our summer holiday. It was during such occasions that Aunt I delighted in the kinship and affinity of Christine convinced my grandmother family. Unconsciously my love for the that only motorcar oil would cure my past, shaped by earlier Albertus and de dry scalp. Needless to say Psoriasis was Vries generations, was nurtured there an unknown ailment then and their and then as ritual and tradition good intentions and efforts ruined my reassured the younger me. The evolution entire holiday. 3 of our summer holiday pleased me Wellwood and lush lucerne lands at greatly by then. Voetpad, advertising the plots for sale at I hope you too find, just as I still do, joy, Kendrew. These brochures were peace and blessings in your summer distributed in Great Britain in the 1920s holiday. where ex-servicemen of the 1914- 1918 war were finding it difficult to settle down or find employment. Thus with ex- servicemen gratuities available, many came to buy a plot at Kendrew – to seek a fortune in a colony. KENDREW They came from all walks of life. Some came from , where they had disembarked, by train to Graaff- Long Forgotten? Reinet and en route saw Kendrew on a hot, windy August day- saw the tumble In the early 1920s a Mr. Schlesenger, a weed (rolbosse) careering past and thick land developer and film magnate, clouds of dust, and promptly took the bought farmland (veldt) from Mr. Reg return train back to Port Elizabeth. Holmes and other adjoining farmland, and The African Irrigated Land Company was formed with Mr. Schlesenger as chairman.

The Van Ryneveld Pass Dam, with built- canals, was constructed and irrigation water became available at Kendrew. The portion (with the best water supply) Kendrew 1895/6 taken by E H Short (North) was administrated by The African ( a CGR Photograph) Irrigated Land Company - known as the Many came and stayed a while but “Company”. The remaining ground was because of the dry seasons and divided into plots for sale. depression, left and settled elsewhere in A brochure was compiled (somewhat . A few stayed and remained misleading) depicting orange groves at 4 many years at Kendrew and some died flowers admired by them have become there. a curse beyond measure. Mr Schlesenger had a hotel built (really While the houses were being build and as hostel, for accommodation of the the fruit trees were not in production as settlers, as they were called) while their yet, there was a time of boredom. houses were being built on the plots Bridge and card games became the which they had bought. antidote. Bridge drives were held and went on from 10am - 2am. The ground was cultivated and crops and fruit trees planted. The “company” Some of the settlers had been stationed also planted fruit trees and in the 1930s in India and “tiffin time “was introduced. there was a dried fruit factory at The passenger train between Port Kendrew and truck loads of fruit- Elizabeth and Graaff-Reinet stopped at peaches and apricots were sent by train Kendrew about midday. to Port Elizabeth to the Jam and It was said that Kendrew station was Canning Factories. crowded on a Monday and the dinning A seven-teacher Primary school was saloon was packed as the Bar was open. established for the children of the A few times the dinning saloon was settlers and the personnel of the secretly unhitched to cause a delay and “company”. They included the Manager, a longer “tiffin time”. and Accountant, a Secretary, a Horticulturist and Managers of the fruit, Mr Schlesenger had the Kendrew country clubhouse built in the late sheep and Agricultural Sections. Mr Clem Cawood, Mr Oswald Cawood and 1920s. The clubhouse was built of zinc- as were most of the company buildings Mr David Stern were the most well – even the walls. There was a bar, fully known. There was also a Piggery. licensed, a library; a lounge, a dance It was in the pig food imported from hall and caretaker/ barmans cottage. New Mexico, that the very noxious weed “Satansbos” was introduced to Tennis courts and a dam for swimming Kendrew. Unbeknown to the people of were constructed and later also a golf Kendrew in the 1930s the pretty blue course. For a short while there was even

5 a cricket field. Tennis, cricket and golf who, when he left Kendrew, went to teams played for Kendrew. Port Elizabeth and started Anderson’s Nurseries. Mr and Mrs Wright, Mr and

Mrs Twigg who suffered a great tragedy when their small daughter was crushed to death by a garage door. Also Mr and

Mrs Galloway and Capt. and Mrs Day and many others.

Mr and Mrs McArthur went to Port

Elizabeth where Mr Mc Arthur became a Another photograph taken by H S Short 1895/96 of Kendrew Station (South) mayor of Port Elizabeth. McArthur (a CGR Photograph) swimming pool at Humewood is named The Kendrew club dances were well after him. Mrs McArthur gave dancing attended. Kendrew became quite a lessons to the children at Kendrew “Place” and Kendrew club became out during the depression. Hazel Short and of bounds for many Graaff-Reinet girls. her brother Arthur, Robert van den Berg and his sister Wendy, Allan Ramsay, Jock Somehow those on the surrounding Olivier and myself were some of the farms seemed on the outside looking in pupils. We did not learn much but the during the early days of Kendrew. Then, McArthur’s needed the money. Mr and as the fruit trees became productive and Mrs Greig who had a tea plantation in the 1933 depression was being felt, the Ceylon (Sri Lanka now) had the most parties became less. Those settlers who impressive house built at Kendrew. Their were also not able to accept the youngest daughter married Victor Van conditions of the Karoo and the hard den Berg. work, left to settle elsewhere. Mr and Mrs Jack Coutts put Kendrew on To name some of the settlers - Mr and the map with their succulent plant Mrs White - Mackey, Major and Mrs nursery and became one of the McQueen and Mr and Mrs McQueen favourite families at Kendrew. Senior. Mr and Mrs Williams, Mr and Mrs Oldham, Olphert, Commander and Mr and Mrs Ramsay came from Scotland Mrs Rae, Mr and Mrs Jeff Anderson - and had four sons (all clever) that 6 attended the Union High School. Bill, the Mr and Mrs Billy Wartze, maybe had the eldest went to Edinburgh University and most original reason for coming to became professor of Chemistry there. Kendrew. Mr Wartze was a Prussian and James studied Forestry in Scotland and a graduate in Geology from University. He and his brother became went to Ghana (the then Gold Coast) steel magnates in Moscow before the Andrew, studied Engineering at Edinburgh University, joined the Royal Revolution. Mrs Wartze was the daughter of a British Diplomat in Engineers in the 1939 - 45 war and was Moscow where they met and were killed in North Africa. Allan, the married. youngest studied Aeronautical Engineering. Bill is the only one still During the Communist Revolution Mr alive, living in Scotland. Wartze and his brother were arrested and sent to Siberia Where Mr Wartze Mrs Ramsay, surely the most hard working woman Kendrew has ever became very ill. Because they were influential and also Prussians, they were known, had apricot and peach orchards that produced prize fruit. Their home is sent back to Moscow, where the Commissioner of police who was a now called Koningrus. friend of theirs, helped them to escape Vice- Admiral Sir Charles Pollard was the to Berlin, Where they had relatives. epitome of a gentleman. It was said that Meanwhile Mrs Wartze’s parents on he was asked to marry Lady Pollard and to take her out of England to prevent a their return to Great Britain came across the brochure advertising plots for sale at scandal involving one of the Royal princes of that time. Lady Pollard left Kendrew. This brochure was given to Reinet House but was unfortunately Kendrew during the time of depression destroyed in the fire at the Reinet and was last seen driving a taxi in . Sir Charles Pollard remained at House. Mrs Wartze’s parents suggested to the Wartzes that they join them and Kendrew and during the War became very ill and lived for several months with come to Kendrew. All the plans were made, but Mrs Wartze died at Kendrew, my parents until his death, a gentleman as did Mr Wartze several years later, the to the very end. last of the settlers at Kendrew.

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I can remember the day Princess Alice loved one, so that the post could be and her husband, the Duke of called for. Miss van Eck died as Connaught came to Kendrew to a postmistress. One day, having worked garden party on the Club House Lawn. until 5pm and being taken to hospital, Even the children (I was one) were died at 11pm the same day, from presented to them. Mrs Wartze taught pneumonia. us how to address them and the girls Mr and Mrs Parker started the General were taught how to curtsy. Dealer Store, where one could buy In 1946 the then reigning King George from a pin to a suitcase, etc. The van and Queen Elizabeth (queen mother) on Vuuren family took over from Mr their visit to South Africa, traveling on Parker, and the van Vuuren family, are the Royal Train, stayed overnight on a still owners of the same shop where specially constructed side line, named we are still able to purchase a large Koningsrus at 7am on a hot February variety of goods. Sad to say Kendrew morning, drought stricken too. Many was built on sand and no provision was Kendrew people gathered at the side made for a church to be built. It was line and met the King and Queen and only in the latter years of the company, the Princesses, Elizabeth (now the they persuaded the company to Queen) and Princess Margaret. The only provide an unused building to be used available flowers at short notice at as a church by all denominations. Rev Kendrew were cockscomb and a bunch Lovely came to hold services for the of these was presented to the Queen. Church of the Province, on his The Royal Family were as always motorbike, once a month and gracious and interested. sometimes there would be only one person at church- but he always came. Miss Anna van Bok was the postmistress at Kendrew for many years. During the In 1950 the African Irrigated Land 1939 - 1945 war, with petrol rationing Company was sold to the Big Four: Mr making it difficult to collect one’s post Harold Charles, Mr Bob Murray, Mr daily, Miss van Eck always telephoned Max Kroon and Mr Johnny van the families, with menfolk serving Rensburg, and Kendrew Estates came overseas, if there was a letter from a into being.

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A few years later the roof of the farmers at Kendrew with splendid and building used as a church, blew away in capable young wives. a storm. Rev Archie Byrne and Mr  From the Archives of The Graaff-Reinet Museum: Harold Charles were instrumental in Author unknown  Further reading: Karoospace.co.za providing another building to be used as a church. Mr and Mrs Eddie Willows were the stalwarts of the church at Organised Kendrew. Community Farming: Meanwhile the company had been sold The Kendrew Estates are about 120,000 and only a few settlers remained and acres in area, of which approximately slowly but surely Kendrew was one-sixth is rated as irrrigable under the becoming farm property again. Due to Van Rhynveld’s Pass Dam scheme. The estates extend for thirty-five miles accross droughts, the depression, the war the Karoo from the boundary of years and above all lack of water, only Graaff-Reinet and represent one of the the farmers remained. largest projects in South Africa for converting semi-arid land into fertile territory In the early 1980s the school building under intensive cultivation. The nucleus of a farming community has been established. was obtained and converted into a church by Mr Brian Charles and other Extensive lucern fileds have been planted as well farmers. The club house has been as hundreds of acres of orchards. Pig breeding demolished and the club is no more. The for the bacon factory, poultry keeping and Railway Station is again a siding, the dairying are other promising avenues, and a considerable range of minor crops are being Post Office is a shop, but the church is tried, several of them with good prospects of cared for and the Kendrew people meet success for the settler. there at least once a month for church One of the principal objectives of the estates service and a cup of tea or coffee. The is the mass production and preparation of fruit, especially for drying and canning. fruit trees have died and the Dried Fruit Factory is only a memory. The Company Given good average seasons this should present little difficulty as the natural and the settlers came and went. The resources, soil, and climate, are suitable; ground is still there and the farmers are and the organisation available also adds to still there, and above all there are young the probable success of the plan.

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GRAAFF-REINETSE SPROKIE

(Hoër Volkskool, Klas van 1965. Al reeds tot Hoër Diens geroep)

Lank lank gelde voor kerk of rede Het die Sondagsrivier ’n silwerhoef oor sy skouer gegooi En gelowig gewens vir jou

Toe het jy gekom Iewers tussen Bruintjieshoogte Ouberg en Spandau En die ongeluksgroef Met die sonskyn en jare beproef

Jy’t jou gerug teen Sneeuberg En geflank teen Tandjiesberg En in die suide hou Kei skuil Agter die swart Ruggens, Kamdeboo En Kiewietstkuil

Met Klipkerk en Markplein Tuintjies en museumdeur Gelapte wingerd En weerspannige kleure Sketches by Don Adair: 1978 Het jy soos Graaff The Drostdy and Reinet House Gepronk en gepou En beenderegetrou, Ook Stockenström en Scheepers onthou

Die Sondagsrivier wou jou jou salige soom Maar het omdat jy van gelate en verlore skatte Bly droom - Jou met valleie van verlatenheid verloën

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the age of 78 years. 2 Most of what The Early Years follows, is excerpted in italics from the original, with very minor spelling of Aberdeen corrections.3 Submitted by Johannes Haarhoff From Graaff-Reinet to Aberdeen in

1857 Search the internet for “history of Aberdeen South Africa” and you will About 65 years ago [in 1857], Mr Jan mostly find only a few sparse scraps of Vorster, of Brakfontein, in the information. You will learn that the Camdeboo, distant about 36 miles town was established on the farm from Graaff-Reinet, decided to have a Brakkefontein of Jan Vorster; township laid out on the said farm. The following a decision by the Dutch farm was so named owing to the taste Reformed Church on 10 September of its water. The idea was well received 1855 to establish a new congregation; by the surrounding farmers. Mr Vorster that there was sufficient development had a portion of the farm surveyed for to warrant a village management a dorp, and then announced in the board in 1858; that it was named after Graaff-Reinet Herald and the Midland the birthplace in Scotland of Graaff- Province Banner (the papers of Essex Reinet’s Reverend Andrew Murray; and Forsyth respectively), that erven and little more.1 It is therefore would be sold by public auction at refreshing to find a more vivid, Brakfontein, the site of the proposed colourful account in the London-based township, at a certain date; and that magazine South Africa which brings the name of the town would be more of Aberdeen’s early days and Aberdeen. inhabitants to life. That article, written The announcement drew a and published around 1922, came considerable crowd of people to the from the pen of Jan Carel Staal (JCS) sale. Everyone possessed money in Haarhoff (1844-1925), a colourful those days, while land was cheap. character in his own right and well- known resident of Graaff-Reinet, who 2 See Stoepstories at http://www.graaffreinet.co.za/article/stoep_stories_no_5/8 for recorded his memories of Aberdeen at a brief resume of his life. 3 A brief summary of the same piece was published in the Graaff- 1 For example http://www.sahistory.org.za/places/aberdeen Reinet Advertiser of 19 November 1953. 11

Politics and racial strife were unknown, health at the time, so my dear old dad nor was the land then overrun with asked Mr Edward Nathan, my boss, to foreigners and stock and land let me accompany the party to the speculators – English and Dutch were sale, and to remain away about a one happy and contented family – week or so.5 As he thought the outing quite contented to quietly pursue the would do me good. “By all means, Mr even tenor of their respective ways. Mr Haarhoff; take John along with you” SJ Meintjes (Fanie) of Graaff-Reinet, said my employer, who was a very fine was the appointed “knight of the man. We set off with a rare splash – it hammer” and the late Mr CA Neser was quite a sight to see the way was his clerk. At that period I was a Damon handled the reins, from North little over 13 years old. My father DJ Street down Church Square and Church Haarhoff, Org Waldeck, Charles Street through the first drift on the Crawford, Ernst Steinhöbel, George F main road leading to .6 Enslin, and Frikkie Botha formed a Salomon flourished the whip and made party to proceed to the sale, which was it emit pistol-shot cracks, when the to be a red letter day in the annals of whole of the Voor Straat denizens with the famous Cambeboo. My father and mouths agape and eye-brows raised in the others named were all wonderment are looking on. We “voordorpers” and inseparable passed Middel Erf (now Adendorp) in a comrades.4 flash, and in due season passed through Moordenaar’s River and A springless or “stamptent” perdewa afterwards Zwart River. The latter and a team of six horses were farm at that time belonged to the well- chartered to convey the party of jolly known Blom family. Subsequently it boys to Brakfontein. A well-known passed into the hands of the late Mr JS coloured driver named Damon was Parkes, who disposed of it to Mr John secured to handle the ribbons, and a Biggs, the present owner. It is said Mr boy named Salomon to crack the whip Biggs named it Brooklyn after Brooklyn over the heads of the plunging, near New York, which city he visited spanking team. I was not in very robust 5 JCS signed up as salesman at the age of 13 at the store of 4 JCS’s father was Daniël Johannes Haarhoff (born in 1818), a Nathan & Roselt on Market Square, Graaff-Reinet. carpenter and wagon maker with his residence facing Market 6 The Berrangé Bridge over the Sundays River had not yet been Square in Graaff-Reinet. built at the time. 12 about 30 years ago [which would be outspanned, and after having about 1892]. Anyhow, he has made a refreshed the inner man, proceeded to very fine farm of his cherished Brakfontein. Brooklyn-on-the-Zwart; all honour to Auctioning off the First Erven him! We next got to Kootje Pienaar’s farm Watervlei. In front of Mr Vorster’s house at Brakfontein was a wide furrow. Nearby We required water and knowing of a was an old church building with a well at the homestead, Damon was thatched roof, built in the form of a ordered to drive to the hospitable oom cross, and with four gables. It was Kootje’s house. Of course, he was there for the convenience of the rejoiced to see his old dorp maters; the farmers in the neighbourhood. Service inevitable koffie and lekker beschuit was frequently held, and quarterly a were served out by his spouse, pipes minister came across from Graaff- were lighted, and the news of the day Reinet or Beaufort West (Reverend related to the kindly farm-folk. “Vatje Andrew Murray, or Reverend Fraser) to water?” “Of course, as much as you hold Nachtmaal. Today the Public can carry away”, replied oom Kootje. Offices cover the spot where the old Windlass and bucket soon gave us church stood. plenty of water. After we said goodbye, I was placed at the back of The auctioneer’s rostrum - a the wagon to hold on to the anker 7 or “veerwagen” - was drawn to one of casket, to prevent it from rolling off on the four corners of the kerk, and to the road, but as ill luck would have quickly the large and jovial crowd it, as Damon, just to show off a bit, foregathered at the spot; the men and made one of his famous “kaapse women of those days were quaintly draaie”, I was neatly projected out of garbed, greatly in contrast with the the wagon on to the dusty road, and dress of nowadays. Many of the men the cask followed me; luckily, I wasn’t wore wide klapbroeken, Dormehl top- much hurt. We continued to Poortje, hats, black cravats, mutton-chop about halfway to Aberdeen. Here we whiskers or fringe beards, smoked boer tobacco in fine soap-stone pipes with

7 Probably refers to a casket holding 1 anchor, equivalent to 8 silver caps, many took roossnuif from gallons or about 36 litres. 13 old-time, much cherished snuff boxes, clothing, etc. The tent or shop all the way from Holland or France, belonged to Mr SE Wimble, of Graaff- and all, save the predikant, the Reinet, who obtained permission from magistraat, the afslager,, and the Vorster to start the “show”. The tent “Engelsen”, wore veldskoene, neatly was on Church Square, and was in made and comfortable – the men vying charge of Mr Christian van Coller, who with each other in making veldshoes. did a roaring business there. There At that fine period there were five or were numbers of tents, tent wagons, six tanneries in Graaff-Reinet, six and carts to be seen all over the werf bootmakers, a hat factory, a dozen and farther afield. The appetizing wagon-makers and smithys, painters odour of griddling boerwors, sasaatjes, and wagon-trimmers galore. and karbonaatjes and that of freshly brewed coffee was delicious to inhale After mounting the impromptu when breakfast and supper were being rostrum, pointing out the locality prepared in the camp. We all had keen where the surveyed erven lay, and appetites, so did full justice to the tasty reading out the stereotyped conditions food. of sale, couched in Hoog Hollandsch, the bidding started; it was not overly The auctioneer applied and got brisk, not that money was scarce, but permission every evening to have the few cared to buy erven in a new dorp. use of the church-building for an hour In those days almost everybody or two for dancing! The young fellow possessed land – a farm could be soon collected a number of the visiting bought for a few hundred pounds, girls and danced to their heart’s while there were heaps of Crowns content to the wailing strains of fiddle Lands to be had almost merely for the and concertina. The auctioneer, asking. The sale lasted four days – all noticing how the young folk were the erven were sold. My father bought enjoying themselves, would shout out four erven, which he sold again at from one of the doors, “Drink up, julle considerable profit in after years. kêrels!” There was a quantity of liquor, who had it I did not know, and soon In the evening, after every day’s sale, some of the young sparks got very all foregathered at a long tent stocked squiffy, and a few hopelessly drunk; with sweets, sardines, salmon, cheese, 14 one chap especially was always “jolly” over management of the store. as the condition was termed. Wimble next had a produce store built The First few Years… on the opposite corner. The building was subsequently converted into a Some time afterward, as I was dwelling-house by Mr E Steinhöbel, suffering from St Vitus dance, Dr who is still in Aberdeen. Maasdorp ordered me away, to have a change in the country.8 Father sent me Next a fine store was built by Mr Joel to Mr Boshoff, a friend of his at Myers, who came from England to be a Aberdeen, who had just completed a clerk to Mr DC Schultz, who had a premise next to my residence in cottage – it was about the first one 9 finished in the new township. In the Graaff-Reinet. Mr Myers started centre of the dorp was a long dam, business in Aberdeen; his store was on always full, and I had to go to it every the lower right hand corner of Market morning early and lie down in the Square, in the direction of the river. He water until my body was blue with was a successful business man; cold. Buildings were going up all married old Mr M Adendorff’s only round. The first shop was erected by SA daughter; she had 12 brothers! Her Wimble, and is now known as Logie’s father used to farm at De Rust, close to store. Jan du Toit, one of his senior Aberdeen; the farm subsequently clerks, came over from Graaff-Reinet became the property of Mr Jac L to manage the business when it was Meintjes, who renamed it Corndale, it opened. His cottage was next door. is a very fine farm. Myers settled in Later Mr Wimble had a fine shop built Kimberley in the early seventies, where on the corner of Market Square, he opened a store, did very well; got Aberdeen; Mr George Eynon was his brother out from England, and set appointed manager. After some years’ him up in business at Klipdrift, now faithful service, Eynon died. Mr Ben known as Barkly West. Some time Solomon, Wimble’s brother-in-law, afterward, Joel Myers disposed of his then came over from Bedford to take Aberdeen business to Fasie & Fettig, and settled in London, where he

8 St Vitus Dance is an old term for Sydenham’s chorea, a disorder characterized by rapid, uncoordinated jerking movements 9 JCS lived at Brighton Keep in Somerset Street, Graaff-Reinet. He primarily affecting the face, hands and feet. had the house built after his retirement at the youthful age of 39. 15 became engaged in the bentwood A Thriving Town furniture trade.10 It was to many marvelous to see how I may state that a gang of Malays quickly Aberdeen grew within its first arrived in Aberdeen from Cape Town; seven years. Among other well-known they were skilled mechanics. Buildings mechanics were: Abel and Shepman, now went up rapidly. The first builder John Cadle, Daniels, John Fleetwood, F to arrive was Robert de Rock, he was Blossman and others. MJ Adendorff what was known as a white Malay, junior was Town Clerk and market and was well to do. He bought ground master, P Heugh was Justice of the and at once started building a big hotel Peace, Mr A Berrange held periodical for himself; soon a second hotel was court monthly in the Library, and built next to de Rock’s, which, after stayed with Mr JD Mare, opposite the some time, changed hands with old Mr big dam when in town, with whom I John Spence, Tom’s father, becoming also boarded. There were three law the owner. He got Mr Edmonds, his agents – Brown, JD Mare and Jan de brother-in-law, from Wales to take Villiers, but no attorneys. control of the hotel. Mr Spence went to There was one tailor, who on Sundays , where he started business. cut hair for the gents of the dorp. The The Dutch Reformed Church and first medico who settled there was a Dr Parsonage was built in 1860, the Dieperink, then Dr Arnold cast his lines church was inaugurated by Reverend in the village. He was attached to the Andrew Murray of Graaff-Reinet. It German Legion. Some years was built by the Malays and a number afterwards he removed to Graaff- of the dwelling-houses as well. The Reinet, where he died. He was a clever town went ahead quickly, but during man. the last few years it has suffered Gert van Rensburg was poundmaster, severely from the effect of recurrent Jan Auret and M Heugh were Justices droughts and slump in trade generally. of the Peace. They performed excellent work. There was no bank; a court-

10 Myers is today known primarily for introducing more scientific house and schools were established in methods regarding ostrich farming. See https://archive.org/stream/jewinsouthafrica00hert/jewinsouthaf due course; HC Blundell started an rica00hert_djvu.txt 16

English school. We had an old soldier Mr Schalk van der Merwe of Uitkyk, about the dorp, he had money, and Aberdeen; he was studying at used to liquor a lot. The old boy Stellenbosch to become a minister of generally attended auction sales. the Dutch Reformed Church. He, When an article was knocked down to however, changed his mind, for instead him, and his name demanded, he of following up the profession of would reply “Malcolm Sellers is my minister after becoming ordained, he name, England is my home, became Minister of Mines under the Grahamstown is my dwelling place, Kruger Government! On his arrival at and brandy my damnation”. The Aberdeen, he preached only one leading farmers were the Rabies, sermon, and that ended his career as Aurets, Du Plessis, Van den Bergs, cleric. He died a few years ago. Vorsters, Pienaars, Jouberts, There resided a missionary and Oberholzers, Fouchés and Terblanches. chemist, Mr JH Schumann, a Hollander; Angora and ostriches were at that time he married a Miss Bisschoff, and quite unknown. subsequently settled down in Cradock. Religious Matters Then Mr Auke Compaan took up his Reverend Thos Menzies Gray, a residence in the rising dorp. He was a Scotchman, was the first Dutch friend of Schumann, to whom he Reformed minister of the village. He expressed a wish to study for ministry. came straight from Melrose, about 20 It is said Schumann coached him, and miles from Edinburgh, where I visited after a year of so, Mr Compaan him at his family home.11 The old proceeded to to pass his gentleman was in Scotland on a visit, exam. In due season he become a full- fledged missionary. He married Mrs and were to return to the Cape in a 12 month’s time. Mr Gray introduced me Schuman’s sister , took up his abode to his friends as an “opregte in Graaff-Reinet, and was appointed Afrikander”. I met a young fellow- missionary to the Dutch Reformed countryman here, named Frans van Mission Church for coloured people, der Merwe, he was a grandson of old worked strenuously for his

12 Other sources refer to his wife as Louisa Barendina Boshoff 11 JCS made an extensive tour of Europe of six months during rather than Bischoff. See 1880. https://www.wikitree.com/wiki/Compaan-9 . 17 congregation for over 50 years, and Agricultural Show in Johannesburg was then retired. The old gentleman is still opened by President Paul Kruger in hale and hearty, and often helps the March 1895 and, in 1922, stated he missionaries, locally and elsewhere, could not remember missing a single when asked to; is bright and nimble as one since! He was distinguished in his of yore, despite his 85 years. He is a later years as always riding through good narrator, well read, a rare town on his bicycle and wearing a pith humorist, a logical debater, and of helmet. kindly disposition. He has had considerable journalistic experience.

Later Years Here ended JCS’s account of his Aberdeen memories. He also left us with some other accounts dealing with a year-long overland trading trip to Walvis Bay in 1866 at a youthful 22 years old, a trip to Johannesburg in 1886 shortly after the discovery of gold, and general descriptions of his own life. He lived in Graaff-Reinet all his life, except for seven years between 1868 and 1875, when he ran his own general dealership in Richmond. On his return to Graaff- Jan Carel Staal Haarhoff, probably around 1900, Reinet, he bought the drapery business pith helmet in hand. of Mr Luscombe, selling it five years later to retire at the youthful age of 38 years.

He travelled extensively and stated later: “I can with confidence say that I do not know of anyone who has travelled more in South Africa than I have.” He was Brighton Keep in Somerset Street opposite Edenhof, probably present when the second Rand taken in the late 1800’s. JCS Haarhoff poses in the center on the ground floor, close to his beloved bicycle 18

When JCS recorded his memories in HUIS VAN STORMS, 1922, he observed that Aberdeen, “… during the last few years, has suffered STRYD EN SMARTE severely from the effect of recurrent droughts and slump in trade generally.” ’n Verhaal deur Hermi Baartman This may be partly true, but at the same Die nuwe pastorie met sy nuwe- time Aberdeen still hosted a vibrant Victoriaanse boustyl, is C. 1902 reg langs community. This is evidenced by a visit die Oude Pastorie, (nou Reinethuis) paid to the town by General Jan Smuts opgerig. Graaff-Reinet se NG Kerk was on 4 February 1920 in Market Hall, only geseënd met ‘n bloeiende Sondagskool, five months after he became Prime ACVV, Afrikaanse Sendingbond wat die armes versorg en na almal se Minister. The visit was concluded with a geesteswelstand omgesien het. Tot 800 banquet – the toast list and menu are mense het ’n erediens bygewoon in die reproduced below.13 Grootkerk, totdat politiek sy vuil kop uitgesteek en vrugbare grond gevind het om op te gedy. Die stryd om Afrikaans

as taal te vestig, het in alle erns begin.

In 1921 het die gemeente ds. J F Naudé, ds. Beyers Naudé se vader, beroep, om die

gemeente saam te bind. Sy intreepreek in

Afrikaans was egter die vonk in die

kruitvat. Een van die Murray kinders het uit die kerk gestap en later verklaar:

“To think he is going to use Kitchen Dutch in my father’s church. I’d rather send my children to a Roman Catholic Church than to let them listen to his Kitchen Dutch.”

Met die rou emosie en ontbering van die

Anglo-Boereoorlog nog pas in die geheue,

die gemeenskap verdeeld tussen dié wat gesimpatiseer het met die Boere- 13 The toast list and menu was made available by the Graaff- Reinet Museum. Republieke en dié met Imperialistiese 19 sentimente, was daar geen wenners in die twee NG kerke ’n klipgooi van mekaar in verbete kerkstryd in Graaff-Reinet nie. Caledonstraat. Volgens geskrifte was die hele breekspul te danke aan Selfs die orreliste het tot die stryd onversoenbare en onwrikbare toegetree. Mej Amy Murray is summier persoonlikhede. afgedank. Toe die nuwe orrelis noodgedwonge haar suster, Catherine Die NG Grootkerk en Nuwe Kerk het intussen aangedui dat daar na uitgebreide samesprekings op eenwording besluit is, moes vra om waar te neem, het sy, na ’n wat in Januarie 2018 in werking sal tree. Sterkte! Afrikaanse diens, al die stoppers uitgetrek en met uitbundige, moedswillige oorgawe, God save the Queen gespeel. Aan die wonde toegedien in die kerkstryd WORDS TO PONDER..... in Graaff-Reinet was daar geen salf te smeer nie. Na die Naudé familie se vakansie by die Strand, met elf mense in die motor het eers ’n kind siek geword, toe Mev Naudé en moes die gesin die nag almal in een kamer in deurbring en die Nagmaal misloop. Toe hulle eers laat die Sondagmiddag in Graaff-Reinet opdaag, was die vet in die vuur. Onthou, werk en reis op Sondag was onaanvaarbaar. Die arm-blanke dogters van die “Poor- house” (nou die kantore van die Provinsiale Verkeersdepartement) het as huishulpe in die pastorie gewerk. Klagtes dat hulle mishandel word, is gelê en Mev Naudé is deur die hof skuldig bevind van aanranding. Die einde van hierdie taal- en kerkstryd was dat ’n wegbreekgroep in 1927 die Nuwekerk gestig het. Vandag pryk daar

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