Memory Dishes Women and African Diasporic Cooking the Cooking Universe of the African Diaspora Letter from the Director
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Memory Dishes Women and African Diasporic Cooking The Cooking Universe of the African Diaspora Letter from the Director ..................................................................................................1 Anthony Bogues Anthony Bogues Curatorial Note .................................................................................................................3 Black eyed peas; collard greens; the fish fry; rice and Enslaved Africans carried their ideas, cultures, labor Johanna Obenda pigeon peas; callaloo; cachupa; these dishes populate skills, and cosmologies across the Middle Passage of the the cooking universe of the African diaspora. Food is Atlantic. As they landed in the Americas, these things Exhibition Gallery ............................................................................................................5 an essential element of human life and existence. Over would become workable memories. Today, in similar time, what was once basic to our life became laden with ways, as groups of the Black diaspora move about the Dominican Cooking in America: A Migration Story ...............................................16 symbolic value. Thus food, its preparation, and ways Americas, migrating from one space to another, they of eating became meaningful rituals and practices. carry with them cultures, skills, and various unique Cachupa: A Dish to be Earned ....................................................................................22 Africans enslaved in the Americas, not only brought Black symbolic orders. Those orders constructed first Margarida da Graça food and ways of cooking from continental Africa, they under slavery and colonialism are now by necessity also had to rework what they knew into something else being reworked. This latter story in the words of Stuart The Flesh of Freedom: Black Bajans, Food, and Claims to Citizenship ......................26 while adapting to a strange land, creating new forms Hall is about being diasporized twice. In this process, there are two memories carried, and in the new home Heather Sanford and rituals. If on plantations enslaved people were directly subjugated through the toil of picking cotton, there is a fierce attachment to what can be recalled and harvesting coffee, and cutting sugar cane stalks, then practiced. However, adaptation has to occur, the cod Provision Grounds: Okra, Survival, and Resistance ...................................................30 on provisioning grounds across the plantation Americas, fish is not the same; the oxtail has a different flavoring Geri Augusto enslaved Africans used small plots as gardens to grow no matter how many broad beans are put in the pot. vegetables, yams, and greens on different terms that Yet, there has to be rice and peas/beans on a Sunday or Aural Traditions .............................................................................................................32 marked a distinct space. Plantation records overflow cachupa, and if there is no callaloo, then collard greens Johanna Obenda with complaints from slave masters that the enslaved becomes an acceptable replacement. And even if there is were spending too much time on these plots. The no catfish, there still is a fish fry. records and archives of this period abound with the Coda: A Final Definition ................................................................................................35 And who are the bearers, the carriers of these memories demands of the enslaved for the time to work on their and practices? There is a cultural and political economy Jessica B. Harris “garden” plot. In some instances the enslaved engaged in of food and gender which is at work. It is not so much strategies of refusal if the agreed time allocated to them a question of who does the cooking, but rather who Suggested Reading .........................................................................................................37 for working on their own plot was troubled in any way carries memories of practices which have been created by the planter elite. Plot, crops, food, the rituals of cook- over time and which in many instances sustain Black Acknowledgements ........................................................................................................38 ing, and growing foodstuff all became a space, a small Life. The women who carry these memories and one, but nevertheless a space in which the enslaved practices have carved out a quotidian space where Black made attempts to mark their being human in contrast Life in the face of daily assaults might be renewed. to the brutal violence of the system of racial slavery. 2 Memory Dishes 1 Curatorial Note This exhibition, Memory Dishes: Women and African Johanna Obenda Diasporic Cooking foregrounds the ways in which food When we began curating Memory Dishes, we wanted to and the culinary arts have acted as a terrain of memory work collaboratively with the Providence community and renewal for the African diaspora in the state of to share stories of African diasporic cooking. That goal Rhode Island. It is an untold story which is usually led to incredible relationships forged with six generous, considered banal and of no significance. Yet, any ritual open, and dynamic families. Human connections are or practice which sustains human life cannot be banal. central to the exhibit in both its content and form. In Caribbean, and Central and South America. This is why It is everyday, and in its everydayness it creates commu- this exhibition it is important that the families high- the exhibition centers contemporary Rhode Islanders of nity and marks identity. If the enslaved African created lighted in Memory Dishes tell their cooking histories different diasporic backgrounds. In the food stories of a culinary universe as a significant material cultural in their own voices. Thus, the exhibit centers their oral these Rhode Islanders of African descent, past histories contribution to the Americas (along with all their other histories and is multifaceted—textual, digital, and are carried into the present through memory. contributions to music, art, religion, and thought), then object-based—to match the complexities of the families’ in our contemporary America, Black migrants whether Women are at the heart of African diasporic cook- stories and the world of African diasporic cooking. from the Southern USA, or the Caribbean, or Cape Verde ing—this is the theme that became the most evident Thank you to the Jones, Powell, da Graça, Alcantara, continue a tradition which challenges the conventional as we collected oral histories from the families. Not Aubourg, and Malabre families for allowing us to meanings of what it means to be an American. They do only were all of the interviewees women, most cited amplify your voices in this space. And thank you to this because cuisine and the culinary arts are expres- women cooks (grandmothers, mothers, aunts, domestic the CSSJ for allowing me the opportunity to explore sions of who we are. This exhibition, curated by Johanna workers) as the most prominent cooking influences a non-traditional mode of curating, straddling the lines Obenda and the Center’s curatorial team, tells us an in their lives. It became clear that it was not the of history, culture, and art. untold story that we often take for granted. specific food items that should be highlighted in the Why African diasporic cooking? The culinary presence exhibition but the interpersonal relationships between Anthony Bogues is the Asa Messer Professor of Human- of enslaved Africans and their descendants are evident the women who prepared said food. The importance of ities and Critical Theory, Professor of Africana Studies, in many of the foods we enjoy today, from gumbo to these relationships informed our decision to film the and Director of Center for the Study of Slavery and Justice barbeque. Rhode Island is a dynamic part of the African women of Memory Dishes cooking meals central to their at Brown University. diaspora, a constant site of migration which has been personal and cultural identities, so that these essential shaped by the Transatlantic Slave Trade, the Great interactions could be highlighted in the exhibit. While Migration from the South in the twentieth century, many interviewees highlight the ways cooking is and contemporary immigration. The people of African shared intergenerationally amongst women, they also descent who have made Rhode Island home through point to a shift in the traditional gendering of African these waves of migration have left a specific mark on diasporic cooking as mothers and grandmothers pass the culinary scene. I was particularly drawn to the culinary traditions to sons and grandsons. This is one of area’s contemporary moment, where Black American the many reminders that African diasporic cooking is food comes from the Southern United States, Africa, the not a static practice simply passed down unaltered, but 2 Memory Dishes 3 Exhibition Gallery one that is reimagined and reconfigured through each living within ourselves and our own communities, generation to fit the needs and reality of the moment. and—through our memories—in our ancestors. I hope the exhibit inspires people to reflect on their This exhibition makes it clear that cooking, while own memory dishes and think about the significance a seemingly quotidian process, is a complex practice that of the everyday. can highlight social relationships, individual histories, and collective memories. Memory Dishes