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Best of Belize BEST OF BELIZE: CROOKED TREE & CHAN CHICH LODGE MARCH 15–20, 2020 Gray-throated Chat, Chan Chich Lodge, Belize, March 19, 2020 © Barry Zimmer LEADER: BARRY ZIMMER LIST COMPILED BY: BARRY ZIMMER VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM By Barry Zimmer Simply put, our Best of Belize tour never fails to deliver a superb nature adventure. Even in a year when we had to end our trip two days early due to the Coronavirus pandemic and the implementation of Stage Four restrictions, we had a wildly successful tour. Water conditions at Crooked Tree were nearly perfect (low), and Chan Chich Lodge is a place where you just about can’t go wrong. We started our tour at the village of Crooked Tree. Crossing the causeway to reach the village, we were stopped in our tracks by multiple Jabirus, a Russet-naped Wood-Rail scampering across the road, and a host of waterbirds carpeted across the lagoon. Jabiru, Crooked Tree Lagoon, Belize, March 16, 2020 © Barry Zimmer An uncommon Rose-throated Becard and some close perched Red-lored Parrots also demanded our attention as we tried to reach Bird’s Eye View Lodge for breakfast. We were scheduled for a morning boat trip into the lagoon, so we were trying to get through breakfast and out on the water as soon as possible. The birds had other ideas. Stepping out of the van, we realized that there were many distractions. A brilliant male Vermilion Flycatcher posed on a wire. Four species of orioles (including Black-cowled) and multiple Rufous-tailed Hummingbirds buzzed about a tree with feeders. Mangrove Swallows and Gray-breasted Martins perched atop a TV aerial. A stunning Yellow- Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Best of Belize, 2020 throated Warbler and a male American Redstart foraged in full view. A Ringed Kingfisher rattled overhead. Sixteen (!) Jabirus fed at once among the thousands of egrets, ibis, Wood Storks, and herons in the lagoon in front of us. Yes, it was going to be hard to get to the dining room! We gulped down breakfast as quickly as possible and loaded up into our boat to head out in Crooked Tree Lagoon. Over the course of the next four hours, great birds appeared at a dizzying pace. We drifted right up on several Jabirus. A Russet-naped Wood-Rail allowed great studies. Snail Kites posed in the morning sun, as did a couple of Black-collared Hawks. A male American Pygmy Kingfisher (among four species of kingfishers seen) let us float up to within eight feet of it, and then watch and photograph it at our leisure. Eventually we left with the bird still perched in the same spot. American Pygmy Kingfisher, Crooked Tree, Belize, March 16, 2020 © Barry Zimmer A Sungrebe appeared quickly along one of the banks, and everyone got decent views before it scurried into the brush. Lesser Yellow-headed Vultures fought over some unseen carrion, giving us great looks at perched birds. A pair of Fork-tailed Flycatchers elegantly sallied out from low branches over the water. Comical Boat-billed Herons clambered about the trees along the riverbanks. Roseate Spoonbills, Barred Antshrike, Limpkins by the dozens, over 100 Northern Jacanas—it was truly an embarrassment of riches! Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 Best of Belize, 2020 In the afternoon, we headed back to Belize City, making stops en route. An Aplomado Falcon hunting shorebirds at the shrimp farm was a real surprise, while a stunning pair of “Mangrove” Warblers in Belize City was more expected but no less spectacular. A King Vulture sailing in with a flock of Black Vultures just north of Belize City was totally unexpected. A short walk around our hotel grounds rounded out the day. Highlights included Cinnamon Hummingbird, Grayish Saltator, and Yellow-winged Tanagers. For our first day, we would tally a staggering 118 species of birds! “Mangrove” Yellow Warbler, Belize City, Belize, March 16, 2020 © Barry Zimmer Day Two found us back in Crooked Tree, but this time to bird the nearby pine-oak savanna. Topping the previous day’s success was going to be a challenge, but we were up for it. Myriad new species greeted us, including fabulous Yellow-headed Parrots, White-fronted Parrot, comical Acorn Woodpeckers, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Rufous- browed Peppershrike, Plain Chachalacas, the regionally endemic Yucatan Woodpecker, multiple Green-breasted Mangos and more. The highlight of the morning (and perhaps the entire trip), however, was the discovery of an ant swarm attended by eight Yucatan Jays. We were able to watch these special birds busily feeding at the leading edge of the swarm for over twenty minutes from about fifteen feet away! A male Hooded Warbler joined the jays and added a splash of color. It was truly a once in a lifetime experience! Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Best of Belize, 2020 Yucatan Jay, Crooked Tree, Belize, March 17, 2020 © Barry Zimmer By midmorning, we were back at Bird’s Eye View Lodge (after pausing to watch a Bat Falcon feasting on a Ruddy Ground-Dove) walking the trails through the nearby thorn scrub. Spot-breasted Wren, an unexpected Gray-throated Chat, and a pair of Rufous- breasted Spinetails were among the highlights. In the midafternoon, we caught our charter flight from Belize City to Gallon Jug (where the airstrip for Chan Chich is located). Appropriately, an Ocellated Turkey greeted our arrival along the runway. Somewhat surprisingly, we also had a male Great Curassow in the road before we could even get to the lodge. With just enough time for a quick walk around the grounds (after checking in and settling into our luxurious rooms), we added a stunning Slaty- tailed Trogon, allo-preening Mealy Parrots, White-necked Jacobin, and Long-billed Hermit among others. Ocellated Turkeys were everywhere! Another day, another 116 species seen—nearly 40 of them new from yesterday’s list! On our first full day at Chan Chich, we started out right around the cabanas, moved onto the east staff area, and finished the morning down by the suspension bridge and Trish’s Hill. Highlights were almost too numerous to mention, but topping the list were prolonged scope studies of a rare Strong-billed Woodcreeper, a stunning male Gartered Trogon, a male Slaty-tailed Trogon that continually darted right through our group to reach some berries on the other side of the road, the always spectacular Rufous-tailed Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 Best of Belize, 2020 Jacamar, Golden-hooded Tanager, Green and Red-legged honeycreepers, White- throated Thrush, and Squirrel Cuckoo among others. Even our lunch was interrupted by birds, as a wonderful pair of Crested Guans posed right off the veranda! Crested Guan, Chan Chich Lodge, Belize, March 18, 2020 © Barry Zimmer In the afternoon, we headed out to the Hill Bank Road. A pair of Tody Motmots from ten feet stole the show, but we also added seven more Great Curassows, a bathing Purple- crowned Fairy, Keel-billed Toucans, and stunning Red-capped Manakins to our ever- growing list. The next day we walked the short forest along the Sylvester Village Road. We saw a ton of new species and, incredibly, found another army ant swarm. Gray-headed Tanagers, Red-throated Ant-Tanagers, a Bright-rumped Attila, Tawny-winged Woodcreeper, Hooded Warbler, and a brilliant Gray-throated Chat (epic views) were all at the swarm. Other birds on the walk included a rarely seen Ruddy Quail-Dove, Crane Hawk, Chestnut-colored Woodpecker, White-collared Manakin, an eye level pair of Long-billed Gnatwrens, Northern Schiffornis, Black-faced Grosbeak, and a Bare- throated Tiger-Heron among the more notables. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 6 Best of Belize, 2020 Gray-headed Tanager (with Hooded Warbler) at ant swarm, Chan Chich Lodge, Belize, March 19, 2020 © Barry Zimmer We arrived back at the lodge in time for lunch, only to receive the unfortunate news that Americans abroad were being asked to return home immediately due to the Coronavirus situation. Arrangements were made to change our charter flight back to Belize City, as well as our return flights home. Fortunately, we still had one afternoon and evening left. Our afternoon ride was to Laguna Verde. Incredibly, we saw six more Great Curassows (this species is usually tough to find), a very close Great Black-Hawk, Lineated Woodpecker, White-whiskered Puffbird, and a troop of 20 or so Central American Spider Monkeys right over our heads. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 7 Best of Belize, 2020 White-whiskered Puffbird, Laguna Verde, Belize, March 19, 2020 © Barry Zimmer After dinner, we went on our much-anticipated night drive. An Ocelot crossed the road almost immediately, although it was generally seen poorly. Night birds put on a great show, however. We had spectacular views of Middle American Screech-Owl, Mottled Owl, Northern Potoo, and Common Pauraque. We had a little time the next morning before we had to leave and managed to add a locally rare Northern Emerald-Toucanet to the list. In all, we tallied 234 species of birds and had a wonderful Belizean adventure. We wished we could have had our final two days, but we were happy to not get stranded outside the United States. I can hardly wait for next year’s trip! ITINERARY March 15 - arrival in Belize City March 16 – Crooked Tree Village & causeway, Bird’s Eye View Lodge four-hour boat trip into Crooked Tree South Lagoon & Black Creek; Sand Creek Road, Caribbean Shrimp Farms, mangroves near St. Johns School, hotel grounds and nearby coast (118 species; 118 total) Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 8 Best of Belize, 2020 March 17 – Bird’s Eye View Lodge, pine/ oak savanna
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