Marking out Tools
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Hand woodworking PHOTOGRAPHS BY PETER SEFTON MARKING OUT TOOLS Expert hand woodworking tutor Peter Sefton moves on to the next stage in exploring the essentials of hand technique by discussing marking out methods n issue 2, I wrote about measuring reasoning behind this is that the saw tools, which leads me now on to a will not follow a knife line any more Idiscussion about marking tools and than it will a pencil line, but a chisel how most of them can be improved will sit comfortably in a knife line. Top: I sharpen Staedtler Traditional with a little extra work from you, or pencils to a two-sided chisel point tested using some tips and methods Marking knives with a chisel to ensure they are performing. When it comes to marking knives, Bottom: A range of marking knives you generally have three grinding Pencils shapes to choose from: the double- When I mark out, I either use an H2 ground Swann Morton, the left- and Peter Sefton pencil or a marking knife, and I only right-handed Ashley Iles style or the Peter Sefton is a well- use a softer HB for indicating face side/ spear point found on Veritas. My known furniture maker face edge marks, etc. My favourite preference is the Swann Morton as who runs courses in fine pencils are the Staedtler Traditional – the blade is so quick to either woodworking, teaching the black-and-red ones – and I sharpen resharpen or replace and it’s very and mentoring students at the Peter them to a two-sided chisel point with thin and sharp. The single sided Sefton Furniture School. He also a chisel, then improve the edge with types may be required in both a left- owns Wood Workers Workshop and a 240 grit abrasive paper on the two and right-handed version for scribing he is a Liveryman of the Worshipful opposing edges. As a general rule, I around dovetails. The spear point Company of Furniture Makers. will use a pencil line if marking out can be used to mark either the left- Web: www.peterseftonfurniture sawing work and I will use a knife or right-hand of a dovetail, but they school.com if marking out chisel work. The can sometimes be a pain to sharpen! ➤ Woodworking Crafts issue 05 65 Hand woodworking Hand woodworking Sliding bevels These are very traditional tools used for marking the slopes of dovetails and angles found around the workshop, but I always feel they are possibly more essential to site carpenters, particularly when roofing. If buying a sliding bevel, I suggest getting one with either a knurled thumb screw or end clamp rather than a wing nut fastener as these can interfere with the stock referencing on the timber. Removing the wing nut and turning the bolt around by 1 ⁄6th of a turn and replacing it in the stock can usually overcome this. Many workshops have now moved over to One of my beautiful rosewood (Dalbergia spp.) and brass try Checking for accuracy using a piece of MDF. Simply lay the digital protractors for workshop use, squares – they look great but aren’t very accurate square on it with the stock to the left-hand side and scribe a line although the use of my trusty Angle Cube can bring the old sliding bevel Squares into the 21st century! The humble square; within my collection of woodworking tools I have Right: Sliding bevels come in a variety of some beautiful rosewood (Dalbergia different types, as shown opposite spp.) and brass try squares but these have sadly been put into my display cabinet, rather than my everyday Marking gauges when pushing away from my body. working tool kit. This is because they I was trained using ‘Marples’ style pin The setting procedure involves using have lost their accuracy – if they ever gauges for either marking or mortise a ruler to set the point of the pin at a had it – and have long since been work for going with the grain, and desired distance from the gauge’s stock replaced with engineer’s squares that cutting gauges when making any or fence. To make any fine adjustment have proved to be far more reliable lines across the grain. For me these tap the end of the gauge stem on the over the years. Although the old work very well but I make some small bench to increase or decrease the rosewood squares are very attractive, adaptations to them before using them setting, depending on which end if a square’s not square or true with the to improve their performance. you tap. This is fine to be done on a blade being at 90° to the stock, then it Marking gauges can either be pulled marking gauge but should be avoided is useless. towards the user or pushed away on a screw thread mortise gauge, as it The woodworking way to check a from the body. I find more control will strip the moving pin’s fine thread. square for accuracy can be done using The pins on these gauges come as a piece of MDF or solid timber with a Above: Very accurate squares a compass point shape but can be An ‘improved’ chisel-shaped tip for perfectly straight edge. Lay the square Right: Removing roughness improved by being filed into a more precise marking on it with the stock to the left-hand chisel-like edge. This should be filed side and scribe a line with a very sharp converging, you need a new square. at an approximate 5° angle to the When using the gauge, my tip is to H2 pencil or a sharp marking knife. If you cannot mark or check your gauge’s stock and keeps the gauge have your thumb and index finger Flip the square over with the stock timber accurately you will fall at the pulling into the timber rather than on the stock and your other three to the right-hand side and check it first hurdle before even starting any going with the grain. The newly fingers on the stem. Use more against the line. If the lines are parallel, real making. The quality of engineering tested rather than it ‘rocking’ on shaped pin acts like a rudder steering sideways pressure than downward then the square is true; if the lines are squares varies; I recommend accuracy any burr or dust that might otherwise the gauge for improved control. This pressure, which will help you to resist to at least BS939 Grade B or above distort your measurement. Squares can only be done once you establish the temptation of the pin to follow the to my students. I have seen various should always be well looked after For setting, a ruler is used to set the point whether you are a pusher or puller of grain – it is best to use several light brands come through the School and – they are fairly robust but can get of the pin at a desired distance from the the gauge, as filing needs to be done to and short passes rather than one long have found Fisher to be the best quality knocked about and this can lead to gauge’s stock or fence suit your individual working practice. heavy one. at less than £20 but you can spend a small dinks on the stock that might couple of hundred pounds for a very need to be carefully removed with a expensive one. A slightly different style diamond lap file, which will remove Mortise gauges end of the threaded tightening thumb of square is the Incra or Woodpecker the high spot. Mortise gauges traditionally come with screw. Beware as this is very easily versions, which have a lip on the inside In my experience, 45° squares are the pins set at 6mm, which is too wide lost if the woodworker doesn’t know of the stock; this allows the square to also prone to inaccuracy if they are the for smaller tenon work. Personally, I it should be in there! But while these sit on the edge of the timber without rosewood type. Personally, I prefer strip the gauge down and file the ends gauges will work well with the grain, twisting and falling off. the solid plate Japanese or American of the brass slider bars and shorten they will tear the fibres if used across All good quality squares have a style over our old English variety as the the stem until the pins come closer the grain, so for best results, a cutting machined slot in the internal corner rosewood type, although very attractive, together. Be careful when removing gauge should be used. ➤ between the stock and blade. This rarely stays accurate over the years. 45° the stock from any wooden gauge, as Using my Angle Cube to check 45° is to ensure that the square can sit squares are tricky to check and I tend there should be a small metal or plastic Right: Modifying a mortise gauge by squares, which makes it much easier comfortably on the material being to use my Angle Cube for this. washer protecting the stem from the filing the ends and shortening the stem 66 www.woodworkersinstitute.com Woodworking Crafts issue 05 67 Hand woodworking Cutting gauge with a point A screw in the end of the stem makes for accurate repositioning Cutting gauges blade. These will hold a very good blades around can be tricky as they A cutting gauge has a knife-style cutter edge but need care when grinding are usually held in place with a brass that severs the fibres and cuts a clean and sharpening, as they are small.