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WWDSwim July 2008/Cruise/A Supplement to WWD

Good Vibrations Itsy-bitsy make way for more modest, retro shapes that are every bit as fun.

Managing Editor, /Special Reports Dianne M. Pogoda

Special Sections Editor Michael Agosta

Senior , Kim Friday

West Coast Market Editor Leila Baboi

Group Art Director Andrew Flynn

Associate Art Directors Sharon Ber, Amy LoMacchio

Designer Courtney Mitchell

Junior Designer Eric Perry

Art Assistant Tyler Resty

Copy Chief Peter Sadera

Deputy Copy Chief Maureen Morrison

Senior Copy Editor Lisa Kelly

Copy Editors Deborah Boylan Adam Perkowsky Kim Romagnuolo

•••

Publisher Christine Guilfoyle

Associate Publisher Tracey Rivera-Price

Associate Publisher, Innerwear/Legwear/ Joel Fertel

Account Director Janine Marks

Senior Account Manager, West Coast Ron Troxell

Associate Production Manager Jill Breiner

Production Coordinator Ahmed Pruitt Zimmermann’s polyamide and elastane . Alexis President, Fairchild Fashion Group Bittar cameo . Daniel Lagani

16 the right fi t: The secret to swim trends around the globe as the cover: a great lies in the fabric. the cruise 2009 season approaches. VPL’s nylon and Lycra bikini inside and Keep Me’s model and spandex 18 silver linings: Economic 22 meet me in montauk: . . 8 nice: A look at a few of the clouds may hang over the swim Retro-infused styles reappear city’s newest and trendiest destinations. market, but a handful of factors this season. This page and cover: have industry insiders hopeful. Photographed by Talaya Centeno; 12 ’tis the season: The swim 28 tribal run: Bold colors and model: Karina T./New York Model industry gears up for the Miami shows. 20 on the horizon: A look at patterns make their presence felt. Management; styled by Kim Friday

6 WWD SWIM

A look at a few of the city’s newest and miamimiami nicenice trendiest destinations. By Rebecca Kleinman

NEW WAVE The Delano Hotel’s Agua Spa has changed its tune, literally. Dumping -dippy sounds such as flowing water and chirping birds, the speakers now pipe the softer songs of edgy artists like Feist. And that’s just one tweak within the major overhaul of this spot atop the hotel. Its original concept with sheer white curtains as makeshift walls — though falling in line with the property’s theme — didn’t allow privacy or simultaneous hetero treatments. Curved and linear walls of white, rustic wood or glass mosaic tiles have solved both issues. “This way you don’t hear girls gabbing, and men and women can be in the spa the same time,” said Christina Agua Spa at the Delano. Russillo, corporate director of spas for Delano parent Morgans Hotel Group. Eight treatment rooms offer mix-and-match services for facials, couples massages or the signature milk and honey massage ($140), given in the wet room, which houses a Vichy shower. Based on India’s ayurvedic system of natural healing, honey mixed with sesame oil hydrates skin, followed by a milk sponge bath to lock in moisture. “We’re very supportive of East-meets-West therapies,” said Russillo, who also has a passion for innovative technology like the state-of-the-art oxygen machine used during the radiance facial ($180). After the face is cleansed and exfoliated with Luzern products, drops of vitamins A, C and E are rubbed into the cheeks, chin and forehead. Pure oxygen is applied for more than five minutes to seal pores. “It’s great for acne, since it’s hypoallergenic, and great for aging because it holds in moisture,” she said. A green paint-drenched solarium also is new. Decorated like a garden tea party, its daybeds, floral pillows and potted plants call for Champagne, lunch or a good book. “People stay all day, and I don’t blame them,” said Russillo. Agua Spa at the Delano Hotel, 1685 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach; 305-674-6100; delano-hotel.com.

MORE PACIFIC South Beach’s loss is the Design District’s gain in Pacific Time. Chef and owner Jonathan Eismann’s popular restaurant fell prey to Lincoln Road’s rising rents. So he closed shop, took a hiatus and resurfaced bigger and better across the bay. His Miami Beach roots aren’t totally forgotten though, witnessed in the striking, backlit alabaster bar as an ode to Morris Lapidus’ prototype in the Eden Roc hotel. “I wanted to send a clean, simple message across the board — tall banquettes, soft lighting and a small, open kitchen, and food that combines our classics and fresh additions,” Eismann said. The menu features what Eismann calls Pacific Rim cuisine, with such dishes as local snapper steamed in lemongrass, sake and lime leaves and served with shitake mushrooms and broth. Small plates, a new twist, can be doubled or tripled for entrées or large parties, and lean toward the light side. “I’ve always been into fitness and health, so rich foods aren’t my niche,” said Eismann. Desserts range from fresh apricots and peaches in lavender syrup to a warm bittersweet chocolate bomb, the popularity of which has spread like wildfire since appearing on his menu in the Nineties. “So many restaurants have it now, but I still think ours is one of the best because the key to chocolate is temperature, something a pastry genius taught me,” said Eismann. Small plates cost $8 to $14, entrées $21 to $32 and desserts $5 to $8. Pacific Time, 35 Northeast 40th Street, Miami; 305-722-7369; pacifictimemiami.com.

Pacifi c Time PHOTOS BY ROBERT SADLER CLARK ROBERT PHOTOS BY

8 WWD SWIM

miami nice

IN THE SWIM Gansevoort South is upping the ante on all-inclusive resorts here. And unlike Las Vegas’ show ponies full of casinos and spectacles, this one is geared toward the pool and beach lover. The refurbished Sixties compound boasts a beach club designed by Stephane Dupoux of Nikki Beach fame, along with and three pool decks, all overlooking the Atlantic — a surprisingly rare occurrence in South Florida. “Unfortunately, other hotel pools were installed at ground level, thus dunes obstruct water views,” said Elon Kenchington, chief operating officer of Gansevoort Hotel Group. Since each offers distinct qualities, it’s all about pool- hopping. With its proximity to the hotel’s David Barton Gym + Spa, the South pool is relegated to children’s and fitness activities like water aerobics. The center, the largest layout, feels more like a grand, plein air hall with homey accents like teak chaises and elephant side tables and dining service by New York’s The One Group, which plans to open STK in the hotel’s northwest niche by year’s end. The rooftop pool at the Gansevoort South. “Most important though is our brand’s signature rooftop pool and lounge, called Plunge,” said Kenchington of the not-so-easy design feat. “We had to completely restructure the building to support a 22,000-square-foot deck with 110-foot pool.” Its 360-degree views and wood slats give the illusion of being on a cruise ship. No amenity was spared — cabanas feature flat screens and music components, a DJ booth instantly fosters a club vibe, which slowly escalates beginning at sunset, and the bar’s sushi menu includes a decadent chocolate roll for dessert. Back on the beach at the largest private club of its kind in Miami, according to Kenchington, daybeds, tiki torches and a lit, glass wall with cascading water sets the scene. “This is the premier VIP playground,” he said. Gansevoort South, 2377 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach; 305-604-1000; gansevoortsouth.com.

INDO-MITABLE Indomania’s secret is out. A little more than a year ago, the Indonesian eatery began as an underground haven for foodies, the city’s chefs and homesick Southeast Asian hotel workers, but great food and reviews couldn’t stop its coming-out party. Lines now form outside the denlike locale in Miami Beach, but owner Pieter Both said the food makes up for any stomach growling or sore feelings. “Somehow my wife’s [Ineke, a professional chef] cooking washes away all memories of long waits, since patrons can tell it’s made with love,” said Both, a former photography agent and producer from . “I have so much respect for her working in this industry all her life, because it’s the hardest I’ve ever worked,” said Both, who mans the front while his wife concocts her complex, fragrant cuisine. “People ask for recipes, but each dish has about 17 ingredients.” Soto Ayam, chicken soup with bean sprouts and egg ($6), and entrées like duck ($20) or red snapper ($18) steamed in banana leaves are popular, but most diners order a rijsttafel (rice table), a traditional Indonesian feast of more than a dozen small plates such as beef coconut stew, lemongrass rice, spicy green beans and shrimp crackers ($16 to $26 per person). Indomania, 131 Northeast 26th Street, Miami Beach; 305-535-6332; indomaniarestaurant.com. Dishes at Indomania.

10 WWD SWIM

’tis the season The swim industry gears up for the Miami shows. By Georgia Lee

MIAMI BEACH IN JULY HAS BECOME and Brazil’s Poko Pano, local the Swimwear City that never sleeps. favorites such as Miami’s Red By day, SwimShow 2009 runs July 19 to 22 at Carter, and Pistol , a line the Miami Convention Center, while Mercedes- that has a celebrity following,” said Benz Swim, which runs July 18 IMG’s Mallis. to 21, has nightly shows poolside at the Raleigh Red Carter, the Mercedes-Benz Hotel and after parties in the penthouse. In Presents featured designer, said now is all, buyers will get a first look at 2009 cruise not the time to play it safe. swimwear from more than 400 exhibitors. “Recession calls for more creativity,” If the number of new lines and launches he said. “It’s the time for fashion to and projected attendance are any indication, throw more bells and whistles on Shoshanna swimwear is among everybody’s favorite and see what sticks. categories, even during difficult times. There’s no need for basic, $20 , senior vice president of IMG , because consumers can Custo is Fashion, sponsor of the Mercedes-Benz event, find that at Target and the expanding swimwear this expected 10,000 attendees, the same as last year, discounters.” year to a complete collection. including 500 registered media. Red Carter’s show and From a few pieces last year tested Several big sportswear and ready-to-wear party will have a speakeasy in selected stores including Saks Fifth lines that have dipped toes into the swimwear theme and a vintage Avenue, cruise 2009 will feature 45 category will launch full collections, while small Twenties vibe. The swimsuits and 19 tunics and , designers are launching swimwear lines as lifestyle swimwear line includes ikat priced $35 to $45 wholesale. brand extensions. Ignoring basics, designers are prints, textured patterns, Red Carter “Swimwear has the same distinguishing themselves from discount channels ruffles and asymmetrical lines, language as the ready-to-wear,” with enhanced print, color and embellishment, to and a sportswear group double said Custo Dalmau, of design, give cautious retailers more bang for their buck. the size of last season’s. who described the collection as Rather than any one trend direction, variety Carter will also launch Red “Seventies-inspired, with graphic prints and individual expression is the order of the day. Carter Glam, a 30-piece collection embellished with patchwork and Lurex Bright citrus and jewel tones replace the earth of high-end, aspirational suits aimed details. For the U.S. market, the fit will palettes of past seasons. Innovation in fabric, at top doors of specialty retailers including have more coverage and construction than texture and prints shows up in ikat, graphic, Barneys and Everything But Water. that aimed at European customers. With first-year digital and 3-D effects. High-end, over-the-top glitz is the purview sales projected at $2.4 million, distribution will Patterns — from stripes and polkadots to of OYE — an acronym for Open Your Eyes — include Custo Barcelona’s own 20 freestanding animal prints — mix but don’t match. The same swimwear, an line now in its third season. U.S. stores along with specialty stores and goes for ethnic and retro influences that play With crystal and semiprecious stones, the department stores such as Nordstrom and Saks. together with no one theme. Not brightly colored line retails around $300 in SwimShow will hold a multiline matching, embraced by juniors specialty stores. This season will include a bikini Sunday, July 20, in a tent on the sand at Ocean for years, is starting to catch embellished with a total of 12 carat’s worth Drive and 11th Street. SwimShow will add new on in contemporary and even of diamonds, priced at $60,000. For more European resources this year, including Lotus misses’ markets, designers said. conservative, less showy types, there is also a and the Spanish line Jocomomola. Responding to demand, $20,000 version. Also exhibiting at SwimShow this year is lines are expanding the range will kick off IMG’s Mercedes-Benz Badgley Mischka. After introducing swimwear of sizes and cups, adding Fashion Week Swim with an opening-night last season, the line is expanding distribution this more construction and figure fashion show and after party July 17 at the Raleigh year, with U.S. stores such as Neiman Marcus and control and adding more Hotel in South Beach. Nordstrom’s online channels and international one-piece suits for a misses’ The brand will preview markets in , Canada and the Middle East, customer who has been spring-summer 2009 swimwear, and show select where the rtw line is sold. ignored. fall-winter apparel and accessories from its South “Swimwear has been an extremely successful Mercedes-Benz Fashion Beach store on Washington Avenue. category,” said James Mischka, who said the new Week Swim’s lineup of 16 Diesel is showing at IMG’s event for the first collection contains the same inspiration in the designers illustrates the time. “Miami is one of my favorite cities in the draping, and embellishment as the influence of fashion, media, world,” said Diesel president and founder Renzo eveningwear. “It gives our customers exposure celebrity and globalization in Rosso. “I’ve always been drawn to South Beach’s to our brand at a reasonable price, rather than swimwear. vibrant energy and cultural richness.” spending $5,000 to $10,000 on a .” “We have a good cross Along with Diesel, other rtw and sportswear Swimwear was a logical step for the section of the big brands, lines have launched swimwear collections as line Tibi, after several recent brand extensions, international lines, like extensions of their brands, including Custo including , wallpaper and . For the Australia’s Zimmermann Barcelona, Tommy Bahama, Ed Hardy and Tibi. Continued on page 14 PHOTOS BY TYLER BOYE PHOTOS BY

12 WWD SWIM

the “wow” factor, especially as prices increase. Speedo will feature Fresh Air its Lzr Racer swimsuit, A look at a few of the lines making their launched in February for fi rst appearance at the Miami shows. Olympic , which will retail for $550 at sporting Vivia by Vivia Ferragamo Tyler goods chains and specialty Having already established a presence in ready-to-wear stores. Speedo will also launch and accessories, Vivia Ferragamo — granddaughter the fashion line Bondi Beach, a of Salvatore — is trying her hand at swimwear. The 20-piece collection of mostly one- designer focuses on five groups this season, all designed piece suits in bright colors with figure- with a sense of timelessness and sophistication. shaping features for the misses’ customer. Ranging from sexy Brazilian to chic French, each group Alex Bhathal, co-president of offers a bikini and, in some cases, a one-piece as well. Raj Manufacturing, a Tustin, Calif., Styles are adorned with a signature fuchsia V detail, manufacturer of swimwear brands Guess, while fabrics ensure a comfortable fit. Prices run Athena Pick Your Fit, St. John, O’Neill, Tommy $75 to $150 wholesale. Hilfiger and Hurley, said swimwear, though not as strong as in previous years, had been helped Dosed by good weather this year. Favoring color blocks over Continued from page 12 “The economy’s bad and traffic in stores is down prints and clean lines over fussy Dosed 20-piece all-separates overall, but swimwear retail sales held up better than silhouettes, -based Dosed collection, Amy Smilovik, other categories,” he said. “Weather is more of an comes to Miami with a spring- creative director, drew on print archives from her important factor than the economy on swimwear.” summer swim collection of one- dress collection. Total company sales for the year ended June piece suits, bikinis, tunics, pareos “We went back to our roots, using enlarged, 30 are flat with last year, though June was strong, and accessories, blending the Italian and recolored prints from my travels in Indonesia,” she and international business helped compensate for Brazilian upbringings of the company’s said. “It was important to present the line with a sluggish sales in the U.S. market. Misses’ brands co-owners Luca Balella and Marcele Ribeiro. consistent point of view that was recognizable, the have outperformed juniors, where competition is Cuts, while sexy, are still generous enough to cover. way Missoni or Pucci is, rather than just following fierce. Rich colors and subtle details, such as a wooden toggle what’s in or trendy.” Like the dress line, the Bhathal said rising costs, from petroleum and delicate side ties accentuate the elegance of the swimwear targets the 25- to 45-year-old customer, to production in China, would result in higher- styles without overpowering them. Prices for the but will wholesale at $40 to $45. priced suits, putting more pressure on polyamide and elastane suits start at $90 and go up to Jantzen had success last year by brands to create value that justifies $116 wholesale. relaunching its own updated version prices to consumers. of the signature Vamp , a red To generate excitement, Raj is Elizabeth Kosich maillot originally launched in 1954. Becca adding more color and new prints This New York-based line debuts with three key This year it will add new colors and across all brands. Mismatched bikini styles and two caftans, all done in viscose, prints. patterns, paired with prints, skins metallic polyester or silk charmeuse. Every delivery includes a suit and florals in separates, have started The Olenska style features string-tie inspired by Jantzen’s archives, to catch on with the misses’ market, bottoms and a triangle top with a many with retro details, from high allowing customers individual metal ring at the center; the Lily waistlines to tiny patent leather belts expression, according to Lisa Vogel, Bart has two metal rings on or hardware that have become co-president. low-rise bottoms and one metal current fashion trends. Retailers planning their ring on the triangle top, and the Jantzen is the fashion swim Miami trips are looking forward Gertrude is a classic string bikini. brand of parent company Perry to fresh color, prints and new Caftans come in a full-length Ellis, which also owns Jag and Nike fabrics, but expressed concerns over ombré style as well as a shorter Swim. Sales for the swimwear division rising prices at a time when consumers length in a soft rose print. The increased 15 percent for the year are strained by gas prices and other costs. Elizabeth suits are sold as separates and run ended 2007, to a total of $90 million, Janet Wong, buyer for Atrium, with Kosich $55 to $70 wholesale. according to Lori Medici, vice president stores in New York and Miami, will buy more of marketing. swimwear this year, especially for year-round Hotel Bondi For the year ended June 30, sales were also swimwear business in Miami, where international Named for a landmark on Australia’s most famous up in double digits for Lunada Bay, an Anaheim, tourists, taking advantage of the weak dollar, now beach, Hotel Bondi swimwear reflects the unique Calif., manufacturer of Becca, Betsey Johnson and account for 70 percent of sales. and active lifestyle of the area with one-pieces and Lucky Brand. For that customer, who likes color, print and bikinis printed with eclectic original artwork. Bright “Retail is difficult and the season has been a skimpier suits, she will preview European lines prints are the main focus of the line and include bold roller coaster,” said Susan Crank, president and including Vanda Catucci and bestsellers Vix, Shay patterns in blue, yellow, green and red. Showing 30 chief executive officer. “There have been more Todd and Lenny and Delfina. styles each for cruise and summer, all Hotel Bondi peaks and valleys this year.” “I’m being careful about price, looking for the offerings are accented with glass, metal, wood or Crank pointed to opportunities with many $195 to $295 retail range, and insisting on good fit Lucite trims, depending on the print story. The nylon stores that are expanding online businesses, and from resources I know I can count on, rather than and Lycra spandex suits run from $160 to $180 retail. noted that retailers are demanding product with Continued on page 30 — Elizabeth Thurman

14 WWD SWIM

the right fit The secret to a great swimsuit lies in the fabric. By Khanh T.L. Tran

FOR COVERING SO LITTLE OF THE BODY, SWIM FABRICS MUST At Blue Water Design Group, Apparel deliver quite a bit. Ventures Inc.’s division that produces In addition to withstanding hours of exposure to chlorine, ultraviolet rays, swimwear under license for fashion sunscreen and oils added to spa baths, the used to make swimsuits brands such as Trina Turk, Rampage must also look good by keeping their shape and fit after hours of wear. and A.B.S. by Allen Schwartz, designers Insight tries to “Durability is the bottom line,” said LeAnn Schwartz, commercial manager scrutinize the sportswear market for new ensure its suits for Dow XLA, Dow Chemical Co.’s first stretch fiber, which made its debut in fabrics, colors and details that they can can stand up to the surf. the U.S. this past spring in ’ Infinitex+ line and Nike’s Evr-X brand. integrate into swimsuits. Equally important in swimwear is the ability to endure a variety of printing, “We are constantly upgrading our dyeing and other techniques that help designers adapt trends to the swim fabrics to make the feel better, and appeal category that pop up first on the runways and streets. to our customer and differentiate ourselves, as well,” said Howie Greller, “We are constantly on the lookout for fabrics that will reflect changes in president of Blue Water Design Group in Gardena, Calif. fashion and the innovations of our mills,” said Kim Farrugia, swim designer Aware of the predominance of textured textiles in recent rtw collections, for action brand Insight. Blue Water Design Group knitted a Seventies-style white jacquard that is offset One of the new materials that Australia-based Insight by a bold background in hot pink, black or mint green for will offer next spring is a gold metallic trim that appears Trina Turk next spring. For Rampage, the company created wet even when out of the water. Yet no matter how the a leatherlike fabric that Greller described as “almost biker.” styling walks the tightrope between surf and street, Insight With A.B.S., designers took a walk on the wild side with a understands that its swimwear belongs in the waves. crocodilelike synthetic cloth that mimics the pricy reptile “Our fabrics need to stand up to the surf,” skin with shiny bumps affixed on a stretchy brown base. “It Farrugia said. “So even though our prints and styling feels like the real deal,” Greller said. are fashion-forward, the Insight girl knows that her On the other hand, environmentalists who can’t bear swimwear will last.” to don any kind of animal skin can turn to Lunada Bay, Indeed, “swimwear is unforgiving,” said Nicky which plans to introduce soy fabric as early as next year Zimmermann, designer of an Australia-based in the form of tankinis, triangle and halter tops and swim contemporary fashion and swim brand bearing her . Costing 20 percent more than nylon-based textiles, surname. “If it doesn’t flatter the body, then there is no the soy swimsuits follow the introduction of bamboo, point in referencing sportswear ideas in swim.” which was knit into velour and jersey cover-ups. Looking Still, she said her swimwear always reflects the brand’s ahead to 2010, Anaheim, Calif.-based Lunada Bay also is fashion perspective in ready-to-wear. “We translate that experimenting with fibers derived from corn. across each swim grouping, thus incorporating some “We’re all trying to be better people to the planet,” said interesting fabrications,” said Zimmermann, who started Pat Osmanson, senior vice president at Lunada Bay. the company in 1991 with her sister, Simone. Besides the eco angle, the soy swimsuits also yield a soft One such material is a chiffon mesh that hand that Osmanson said reminds her of cotton. Still, the Zimmermann used to convey the transparency biggest challenge of working with soy is that, unlike nylon trend that first appeared in designers’ collections and bamboo, the fabric can’t achieve a bright color palette. in the spring. In a one-piece being offered as part As such, Lunada Bay is sticking with a muted array in of Zimmermann’s spring 2009 lineup, the designer black, brown, rust, olive and aquamarine, Osmanson said. strategically covered parts of the body with strips of a “What I really love about it is it takes you back to the quirky floral print while keeping the abdomen, hips cottony feel,” she said. “It seems to be what the consumer and décolletage subtly visible under the sheer chiffon. is going back to.” “Even though [our swimwear is] always moving in Chiffon mesh A soft touch was also the goal for a lower-priced subbrand fabrication and direction, we always work to ensure helps Zimmermann from Natalie Golonka, whose year-old that it has our unique stamp, which is different to a lot translate the company, called Junglegurl, recycles vintage garments into transparency trend of swim lines,” Zimmermann said. from the street to teeny bikinis. Because the vintage garments are expensive Raj Manufacturing is moving toward the high end the beach. and difficult to find, Golonka worked with Los Angeles- with the launch of a new brand, Luxe, that showcases based Jiann & Co. to twist nylon and spandex yarns on a a slinky micronylon jersey spruced up by a slight sheen. vintage knitting machine in an updated technique that Jiann A spin-off of Raj’s flagship Athena brand, Luxe makes its debut in July for said will reduce pilling while improving durability and the feel of the fabric. the coming spring season with retail prices ranging from $130 to $195. In While Golonka will continue to create one-of-a-kind bikinis from vintage comparison, Athena’s prices run from $100 to $120. fabric for Junglegurl Green Label, the secondary line, called Junglegurl, While some companies might opt to lower prices in an uncertain economy, will use mass-produced textiles and cost half as much, with wholesale prices Raj advocates aiming higher with more innovative — and thus costly — from $50 to $60. fabrics. “We’re leaning more on these specialized products to separate us [from “The lower price point will come in handy for the street, edgy, surf girl the competition],” said Lisa Vogel, co-president of Tustin, Calif.-based Raj. who’s still into fashion,” Golonka said.

16 WWD SWIM www.freyaswimwear.com

Swimwear up to a HH cup

New York Showoom 180 Madison Avenue #1407 New York New York 10016 Tel: 212 696 4763 silver linings Economic clouds may hang over the swim market, but a handful of factors have industry insiders hopeful. By Rachel Brown

BRIGHTLY COLORED SWIMSUITS MAY BE THE LIPSTICKS OF the swimwear market. Like with the beauty mainstays, suits splashed with oranges, turquoises and yellows reappear in stores with a vengeance when economic times are tough, 41-year-old Raj Manufacturing LLC detected. “We have more brights than ever in our [2009] collection,” said Lisa Vogel, co-president of Tustin, Calif.-based Raj, which makes swimwear under the , Athena, Guess, O’Neill, Luxe and St. John labels. “The last Despite a slow economy, the swim segment continues to grow. time we saw these bright colors was in the early Nineties, the last time we were in a recession.” Perhaps swimwear consumers—as well as retailers and vendors—are in The NPD figures show that mass merchandisers and off-price retailers, need of a little cheering up. While the niche swimwear industry hasn’t fared purveyors of low-cost suits, have seen women’s swimwear year-over-year as poorly as others, sales over the past year have been largely flat and buyers increase 7.2 percent and 24.7 percent, respectively, perhaps partially due to are cautiously approaching the upcoming season. consumers seeking affordable options. However, specialty stores with pricier Research firm The NPD Group reports that total women’s swimwear sales goods have had their share of success, with annual sales rocketing 19.6 percent. in the U.S. amounted to nearly $2.7 billion from May 2007 to April 2008, Specialty stores credit designer and misses’ swimwear with keeping climbing roughly 1.2 percent from $2.66 billion in the same period a year shoppers buying. “People are looking into designer swimwear more than before. That increase was substantially off the prior year’s, when sales spiked ever before,” said Melanie Michaud, director of marketing for 17-unit chain almost 10 percent from $2.4 billion. Diane’s Beachwear. Certainly, the swim picture could be a lot gloomier. Ron Russell, president Howard Greller, president of Blue Water Design Co., a division of Apparel of L.A. swimwear stalwart AVI Design Group, which handles La Blanca, Ventures Inc. that he said has recorded a 25 percent revenue leap over last Sessa, 2Bamboo, Citrus, Lauren by and Ralph Lauren Blue year, said designer sales have flourished. “We have seen explosive growth at Label, said that the swim sector’s small size compared with other parts of the the designer tier level, which indicates that people are willing to spend at the fashion industry limits its exposure to economic swings. The luxury price level if the suit is right.” Blue Water makes Trina Turk, majority of women shell out for a swimsuit fewer than once Swim makers say that Rampage and Local Motion swimwear, among other brands. a year, according to a 2007 survey by NPD. as long as the weather’s hot, Nichole Carroll, creator of Tyler Rose Swimwear, “We continue as an industry to do well in spite people will still buy swimsuits. a high-end brand available in roughly 50 specialty of all the things that take place because it is boutiques, concurs that the premium labels somewhat recession-proof,” said Russell, who continue to perform strongly because their reported that AVI experienced a year-over- customers are not extremely price-sensitive. “The year revenue jump of 18 percent. “If we were girls who buy my stuff are willing to pay that in a business that we had to sell a woman price point,” she said. a swimsuit every year, then we would be Swimwear shoppers’ price sensitivity will affected by recessions.” be put to the test in the upcoming season. The weather probably has more to do Material expenses, transportation costs and the with swim’s fortunes than gas prices, interest Euro-dollar discrepancy have been blamed for rates or foreclosure statistics —and it is often boosting swimsuit prices. Swim ’n ’s Sidle mentioned first when swimwear retailers has come across increases as high as 10 percent, and vendors discuss sales. In most parts of the but he doesn’t seem too worried. “I don’t believe country, retailers noted that warm temperatures that the majority of the consumers that are shopping have spurred business this summer. in better stores today are going to not buy because of the Mark Sidle, president of Swim ’n Sport, a Miami-based 10 percent increase,” he said. chain with 36 stores, puts the climate-business equation simply. Nonetheless, Sidle and other retailers aren’t proceeding into “The hotter it is, the more you can sell,” he said. the 2009 buying season depending upon shoppers shelling out for just any Even with the mercury rising, swimwear hasn’t escaped the cold economic suit. The drive to smartly merchandise the stores is even greater given the winds totally unruffled. While the industry as a whole has been relatively economic uncertainties. nonplussed, there are areas of concern. The junior market is one such area, “We went into the market last year being very selective in the prints and especially for manufacturers and shops in the upper tier of the swimwear field. colors that we wanted to offer to our consumer, and we are not going to settle Contrary to conventional wisdom that teens’ and kids’ shopping tabs don’t this year either,” said Sidle. Going into next season, Kassidy Babcock, a buyer decline during downturns because parents splurge on their tots no matter for online store Shopbop, said, “I am bringing in a couple of new brands, but what, several vendors and retailers have noticed that junior spending has taken we are focusing on the ones that have been strong performers.” a dive in swim. “For the last five years, juniors has been a very strong summer And California Sunshine’s Buda said, “We are definitely going to have business for us, but now we have seen that has fallen,” said Renee Buda, buyer a more conservative buy than last season.” Still, she offered some hope to for 18-unit chain California Sunshine, based in Ocean Township, N.J. standout vendors. “We are always looking for fresh fashion,” she added. PHOTOS BY TYLER BOYE PHOTOS BY

18 WWD SWIM Be Sensitive Sensitive to quality, Sensitive to the environment

Fabric Certificate of Authenticity

REPRESENTATIVE FOR US MARKET Roberta Bonifacio Tel: +1 562 439 8447 Mobile: +1 562 244 4890 e-mail: rbonifacioeurojersey.com

www.sensitivecosystem.it Fabric made in Each day we work to improve the most innovative fabric in the only by world by striving for excellence in full respect of the environment A look at swim trends from around the globe as the cruise on the horizon 2009 season approaches. LOS ANGELES B. Swim Ed Hardy This is Hollywood, baby, where the garments that sell are celebrity approved. Swimwear is no exception. When tattoo art- covered Ed Hardy suits showed up on the likes of , Los Angeles shoppers had to have them. “Ed Hardy swimwear is going crazy,” said Melanie Michaud, director of marketing for 17-unit swimwear chain Diane’s Beachwear. “Overall, if you look at the brands that have been the most successful, they have had great marketing campaigns and understand fit.” MIAMI Besides Ed Hardy, she predicts HOLLYWOOD fashion-forward labels such as B. Swim and Betsey Johnson LOS ANGELES will continue to score with Los Angeles beach bunnies. — Rachel Brown

MIAMI Diesel From south Miami’s Mermaids Boutique to Miami Beach’s Intermix stores and MPL ’ swimwear showroom, cruise 2009 is about showing some skin and styles that can go from the beach to the street. and triangle- top bikinis with Brazilian bottoms and revealing one-pieces come in a variety of prints and fabrics, such as metallics; animal, tribal and tropical prints, Luli Fama and jewel tones. Add-ons include cleaned-up embellishments, ruffles and ruching, strap detail and reversible styles. “The Miami girl vacations in glam places including her own home,” said Sari Sloane, vice president of buying and merchandising for Intermix. — Rebecca Kleinman

Bianca Coletti

WE L COME LASTO FABULOUSVEGAS

LAS VEGAS Sin City might as well be called Skin City. “In Vegas, it is all about your body,” said Cynthia Owens-Thompson, swimwear buyer for MGM Mirage’s hotel stores, where Sauvage, Luli Fama and Gottex are leading brands. Bikinis rule the market, “The skimpier, the better,” she said. If one-pieces do enter the picture, they’re with ample cutouts. Metallic hues and animal MIAMI prints never go out of style. And prices soar into the hundreds — suits average around $150 at MGM Mirage properties — with little resistance from Las Vegas sunbathers. “If it is a suit that they like, price is definitely not an issue,” said Owens-Thompson. — R.B. Luxe Sauvage

20 WWD SWIM Cia Maritima Rosa Chá

BRAZIL Brazil is known for its sandy beaches and hot bodies. Not surprisingly, popular cuts for cruise 2009 will feature lots of slim string bikinis and cutout one-pieces. According to a spokeswoman at Brazil-based Cia Maritima Zimmermann swimwear, suits will feature prints galore, with geometric and contrasting BRAZIL animal prints such as zebra, cheetah, leopard and tiger. The color palette ranges from shades of lavender, lilac and eggplant to burnt orange and royal blue. — Michael Agosta

AUSTRALIA AUSTRALIAA UNITED KINGDOM WithW styles named Britain may not be famed for afteraf iconic beach balmyb weather, but bathers bbbabes such h as BBo DDerek k and Bond girl Honey sporting bikinis in blinding brights Rider, Zimmermann’s cruise 2009 collection 12 has a retro modern feel. Bodycon balconettes, 9 3 UK and festooned with bling will raise ITALY 6 temperatures at Brighton Beach underwired construction and padding are next summer. Structured styles featured in Fifties looking bikini tops and withw Seventies and Pop Art details cutout maillots, while soft, self-tie triangle will be key looks at High mecca Topshop, while Elizabeth Hurley and string bikinis, in both geometric prints PPQ will take a sport-luxe bent with contrasting trimmings and plain chambray, boast an Eighties vibe. and prints. Lovers of bold colors will have the option of Frills abound, bikini pants are smaller than TY saffron-hued embellished bikinis at Tara Matthews, while ever — by request from customers — and the Elizabeth Hurley’s spring-summer collection will feature collection revolves around seven signature coral shades with gold chains. For shrinking violets, Luella prints, including an abstract dot print and a Bartley’s collection with O’Neill, dubbed Luella for O’Neill, folkloric Russian “babushka” design. Cute will offer pretty floral prints. silver horse or gold feather metal hardware — Louise Bartlett trims dangle off and ties. — Patty Huntington

ITALY Looking good on the beach is as fundamental for Italian women as a glass of Barolo. And this season, there’s something for all with bikinis, tankinis and even one-piece swimsuits high on the list for seagoers. At Argentovivo, the hottest looks are Seventies-inspired swimwear ITALY à la Bianca Jagger, with dramatic one-pieces in fluorescent colors and sexier monochromatic black or white tones. A more romantic undercurrent rules at Pin Up Stars with a sea of fairy tale iconography in multicolored flashes and even a naïve version of the Ugly Duckling. African and Indian tribal effects set the mood at Parah, while the elegance of Capri and the exclusivity of Saint-Tropez influenced the Poisson D’Amour collection via pastel hues such as baby pink, sky blue and lilac. Flowers, butterflies, stars and some retro polkadots and stripes also continue to get the green light. Argentovivo Pin Up Stars

BRAZIL, LAS VEGAS, MIAMI AND LOS ANGELES PHOTOS BY RAQUEL OLIVO; LAS VEGAS STILL LIFE BY TYLER BOYE; ILLUSTRATIONS BY TYLER RES BY ILLUSTRATIONS TYLER BOYE; OLIVO; LAS VEGAS STILL LIFE BY RAQUEL ANGELES PHOTOS BY LAS VEGAS, MIAMI AND LOS BRAZIL, — Chiara Hughes

WWD SWIM 21 Meet Me in

Look back to simpler times and retro-infused styles at The Surf Lodge. DNAxy’s nylon and spandex swim dress and Nautica’s polyester and spandex bikini. OPPOSITE: Betsey Johnson’s micronylon and spandex triangle top and Bulga’s cotton . Vans espadrilles. A.B.S. by Allen Schwartz’s Tactel and spandex bandeau. Moscot aviators; Amrita Singh bangle. OPPOSITE: Loeffl er Randall nylon and spandex bikini. Ben-Amun by Isaac Manevitz bangle.

Syla by Sylvie Cachay’s Meryl microfi ber nylon and Lycra spandex boyshorts and APC’s cotton top. Goorin Bros. ; Alexis Bittar ; Vans espadrilles. OPPOSITE: ’ polyamide and Lycra high- bikini. Photographed by Talaya Centeno at The Surf Lodge in Montauk, N.Y.; model: Karina T./New York Model Management; hair and makeup by Souhi Lee at De Facto for ; styled by Kim Friday Pattern play looks fresh 1 in a pumped-up palette.

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1. Rosa Chá polyamide and spandex one-shoulder top. 2. Vix polyamide and elastane swimsuit. 3. Tibi nylon and elastane one-piece. 4. Sauvage Luxe nylon and Lycra bottom. 5. La Blanca nylon and spandex swimsuit. 6. Trina Turk nylon and spandex . 7. Erickson Beamon .

28 WWD SWIM MAGICSWIM at WWD

August 25, 26, 27 2008 Mon. Tues & Wed: 8:00 AM – 6:00 PM The Hilton Adjacent to The Las Vegas Convention Center www.magiconline.com

C’mon in, the water’s perfect. ’tis the season Continued from page 14 ones that may be just starting out,” she said. Pat Schaefer, buyer for Atlanta Beach, a swim specialty store with two locations, said that concerns about fit and shipping have led her to narrow her vendor structure to proven resources. Topping her list are Tommy Bahama, Eres, Robin Piccone and Sauvage. Though business this year has been strong, Schaefer is cautious about the coming year. “Everyone is concerned about gas and food prices, and it seems frivolous to spend lots of money on a swimsuit,” she said. “I’m making sure I’m on the sales floor, and staying alert, because nobody knows what’s going to happen.” Holiday Road Mara Hoffman launches swim. WHILE PAST SEA- sons have included a sampling of bikinis and maillots, designer Mara Hoffman hasn’t had the time to develop a full swimwear collection. But this year, instead of designing her usual holiday line Hoffman

turned her focus toward ANTONOV PASHA PHOTOS BY things she could wear on holiday. “I think it’s more of a passion to do swim than satin dresses, for sure,” said Hoffman, Looks from Mara who launched a Hoffman. full collection of swim, cover-ups and beach bags for resort. “That kind of exotic tropical feeling is much stronger for me.” Hoffman hopes to capture a “traveled, Seventies Africa moment” with her eight bikinis and three five-piece styles, many of them done in exotic prints designed by Hoffman and Klee Van Schoonhoven. Chiffon dashikis and vibrant cover-ups round out the theme. As for the suits, there’s definitely a sexy tribal vibe, but Hoffman hopes she’s provided enough structure and coverage via strong spandex and exacting fit to appeal to a broad customer base. “We kept in mind everything from the young skimpy bikini girl to the woman who just had a baby and needs a little more support,” she said, naming her one-pieces as a prime example of something “sexy and cute, but doesn’t leave you hanging out all over the place.” — Jessica Iredale

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