New Clue Pegleg's Gold Desert Mystery Erle Stanley Gardner

THE MAGAZINE OF THE WEST

APRIL 1965

NEW CLUE PEGLEG'S GOLD READER BONUS: DESERT MYSTERY by ERLE STANLEY 1 GARDNER t,

>\ APRIL

PHOTO

CONTEST

WINNERS

CHRISTIAN SYMBOL Mel Lewis Second Prize Salt Lake City, Utah No one knows who or why this cross was placed in the hills north of the Escalante River in WINTER IN FISH SLOUGH Southern Utah. DATA: Rollieflex, Kodak Super Adele Reed XX, light green filter, 1/100 at £22. Bishop, California Author Adele Reed while searching for bottles in Inyo County, Califor- nia, caught this unusual scene showing yet another aspect of the desert. DATA: Rolliemagic No. 2, Agfapan.

First Prize

PHOTO CONTEST RULES 1—Prints for monthly contests must be black and white. 5x7 or larger, printed on glossy paper. 2—Each photograph submitted should be fully labeled as to subject, time and place. Also technical data: camera, shut- ter speed, hour of day, etc. 3—PRINTS WILL BE RETURNED ONLY WHEN RETURN POSTAGE IS ENCLOSED. 4—All entries must be in the Desert Magazine office by the 20th of the contest month. 5—Contests are open to both amateur and professional photographers. 6—FIRST PRIZE will be $15; SECOND PRIZE, 8. For non-winning pictures accepted for publication S3 each will be paid. Although not part of the contest. Desert is also interest in viewing 4x5 color trans- parencies for possible front cover use. We pay $25 per transparency. Vet&tl

LATE MARCH. Palomar Gem and Mineral Annual Show, Escondido, Calif., March 27-28. Baldwin Park Mineral ai.d Lapidary Club's 5th Annual Show, March 27-28, Baldwin Park, Calif. Swiss Schwingfest, March 28, Holtville, Calif. Southwest Indian Pow Wow, March 27-28, CONTENTS Winterhaven, Calif.

APRIL. Salton Sea Corvina Derby, April through August, Salton Sea, Volume 28 Number 4 Calif. Ute Indian Tribal Bear Dance, Early April, check with Roosevelt, Utah Chamber of Commerce for exact four-day dates. Santa Monica, April, 1965 Calif. Gemological Society Annual Show, April 3-4, Santa Monica Boys Club Bldg. Scottsdale, Ariz. Arts and Crafts Festival, April 12-16. This Month's Cover Southern California Jumping Frog Contest, April 17-18, Del Mar Fair- Boy with Poppies grounds. 33rd Annual Spring Wildflower Festival, April 24-25, Hi By DON VALENTINE Vista-Lancaster, Calif. Annual Riverside Community Flower Show, 4 Books for Desert Readers April 24-25, Riverside, Calif. Armory. 5 Dichos By RICARDO CASTILLO JACK PEPPER, Publisher CHORAL PEPPER, Editor 6 Ruins of Providence Elta Shively Al Merryman Rose Holly Marvel Barrett Executive Secretary Staff Artist Circulation Manager Business Manager By BARBARA PETERSON Desert Magazine, Palm Desert. Calif. 92260 Telephone 346-8144 8 Sovereign of the California Skies By BOB and JAN YOUNG National Advertising Representative 10 Desert Secret for Healthy Heart GEORGE R. JOSEPH CO. 3959 W. Sixth Street, Los Angeles, Calif. 90005 Telephone 387-7181 By I. AIZIC SECHTER DESERT is published monthly by Desert Magazine, Palm Desert, Calif. Second Class Postage paid at 11 Gold Nuggets Made to Order Palm Desert, Calif., and at additional mailing offices under Act of March 3, 1879. Title registered No. 358865 in U.S. Patent Office, and contents copyrighted 1965 by Desert Magazine. Unsolicited By SAM HICKS manuscripts and photographs cannot be returned or acknowledged unless full return postage is enclosed. Permission to reproduce contents must be secured from the editor in writing. SUBSCRIPTION PRICE: 13 Gypsum Cave of Las Vegas $4.50 per year (12 issues) in the U.S.; $5.00 elsewhere. Allow five weeks for change of address, and be sure to send the old as well as new address. By RAY WARNER 14 What Is Schnapps? By ADELE REED 15 New Clue to Pegleg Gold DariL SUBSCRIPTION SERVICE By JOHN SOUTHWORTH 18 PaiPaiLand • ENTER A NEW SUBSCRIPTION RENEW MY PRESENT SUBSCRIPTION By BETTY and BILL MACKINTOSH •

20 The Impossible Mountain NAMF By PETER ODENS

22 Hovering Over Nummel's Gold ADDRESS 7IP CODE By CHORAL PEPPER

25 Photo Sign Gift Card: "From Gardner's Camp in Clip Wash D SEND GIFT SUBSCRIPTION TO: By JACK PEPPER 28 Come Join the Dig NAME_ By JULIA CRAW ADDRESS. 30 Indian Frontier Village By MARGARET ROMER NAME 32 Desert Justice (Part 1) By ERLE STANLEY GARDNER ADDRESS- 39 La Paz Ferry NAME. By CLIFF CROSS

41 Ghost Town ADDRESS. By LAMBERT FLORIN • 12 Issues $4.50 • 24 Issues $8.50 • 36 Issues $12.50 42 DESERT Cookery (lYr. Subscription) (Or 2 Subscriptions) (Or 3 Subscriptions) By LUCILLE I. CARLESON • PAYMENT ENCLOSED THUS GIVING ME TWO EXTRA ISSUES FREE. • BILL ME LATER.

43 Desert Dispensary • Also send DESERT'S 12-lssue Vinyl Binder for $3.50 Date Binder with Year By SAM HICKS • Undated 46 Letters from our Readers (Foreign subscribers add 75 cents a year to any amount.)

April, 1965 / Desert Mcraazine / "GEM CUTTING SHOP HELPS" Contains All the Best Experience and Ideas G(eaneJFrom !7 Years o/the LAP.DARY JOURNAL This is the fastest

Contains Everything LOG OF A TWENTIETH JACK MITCHELL, CAVEMAN Any Rockhound CENTURY COWBOY By Jack Mitchell [yet Wanted To Know ... All In By Daniel G. Moore Dedicated to "Life, To those who One Book! This cowboy's world is rich with are living It and loving It, to those who are seeking, and those who have 240 PAGES history of the West's last stand. Since 10 CHAPTERS 1913 he has worked cattle ranches in found their purpose for being a part 160 TITLES ON $395 New Mexico, Texas, South Dakota, of It," this book, edited after his EVERY PHASE OF POSTPAID GEM CUTTING IS4.11 IN CALIF.) Montana, and, since 1921, hired out death by his wife and two daughters,

This book has been a sensational seller... over 16,500 copies sold in the to the "Wagon Rods" on the San is one of the truly fine autobio- first three months after publication. Now in third printing. Contains com- graphies to come out of the desert. plete gem cutting instruction for everyone from the beginner to the more Pedro River in southern Arizona. advanced ... ten chapters on GEM CUTTING INSTRUCTION FOR THE BEGIN- Here he tells about the great work- NER; SAWING; GRINDING: SANDING; POLISHING; DIAMOND TOOLS- DRILLING- Driven by financial mis-adventures LAPPING; CABOCHON CUTTING; MAKING NOVELTIES; TREATMENT OF INDI- ing ranches of the Southwest, what into a state of depression bordering VIDUAL GEMSTONES and GEMOLOGY FOR THE AMATEUR. HUNDREDS OF ILLUS- has become of them, and where the TRATIONS AND DRAWINGS ... HOW-TO-MAKE YOUR OWN EQUIPMENT. on suicide, Jack Mitchell's wife, Ida, people are now who worked on them. ribbed him back to reality by point- FREE: 48-PAGE BOOK LIST He writes about cattle brands, In- The LAPIDARY JOURNAL BOOK DEPARTMENT carries ing out that he couldn't very well in stock over 170 gem and mineral, fossil, silvercraft dians, hard times and good times, and trail guide books for all ages. Send for our BOOK "blow out" what wasn't there to be- LIST ... It's FREE! range wars, water holes, and trails of gin with. With humor, love, and for 12 ISSUES the past. He lived in log cabins, hard work, they moved to a tent on VIhv not subscribe now "•" tents, bunk houses, wagons, and un- nrny nvt mt/jiiii/K nvw ... in u s ond POSSESSIONS the desert and launched a new life. INCLUDING BIG APRIL ROCKHOUND BUYERS GUIDE der the stars. His language is vivid The famous caverns on their pro- WORLD'S when he tells of bronc stompers, big LARGEST perty provided a source of income, grullos, waddies—words that have once Jack explored them, cleared GEM meaning for cowboys. CUTTING trails to them, and himself constructed a road from Essex. Ida helped with MAGAZINE Here is a smooth, easy-reading book for the house they built of rock, with the ZIP CODE t. O. BOX 2369D full of excitement and color. If you 92112 SAN DIEGO, CALIF. AMATEURS additional guest cottages that came <~are about Western Americana and later, and cooked the meals that at- want a book that's different and fresh, Give an interesting gift tracted a steady stream of tourists to this is it. 217 pages, illustrated with their isolated holdings. drawings, hardcover. $6.00. Here they pioneered for 20 years through cloudbursts, sandstorms, only |4.50 a year Books reviewed may be ordered World War II, and poverty that from the DESERT Magazine Book makes you want to cry with admira- Order Department, Palm Desert, tion for their ingenuity and indepen- Just Published . . . California 92260. Please include dence. The story relates Mitchell's Golden Checkerboard 25c for handling. California resi- excitement in discovering and ex- dents must add 4% sales tax. ploring his famous caverns, one con- by Ed Ainsworth Enclose payment with order. sidered the deepest in the world. Amazing but true story of how the In- A book to be enjoyed by all adven- dians of Palm Springs, once the nation's poorest tribe, recently became America's turers, cavers and desert dwellers, richest Indians after almost a century GEM CUTTING SHOP HELPS Jack Mitchell tells his story with of struggle to cut through the red tape Selected from the best of Lapidary simplicity and sincerity. Paperback, of bureaucracy and the mountain of in- 164 pages, illustrated with photo- difference that denied them their heri- Journal tage. Though many persons tried and graphs. $2.50. failed over the years, one man's stubborn Here is the finest collection of ma- efforts finally made it possible for Palm terial ever assembled relative to gem Springs' Cahuilla Indians to put their cutting. Edited by gem expert Hugh HOME IS THE DESERT tribal lands to work for the benefit of the tribe and the City of Palm Springs. Leiper, this 230-page paperback book By Ann Woodin GOLDEN CHECKERBOARD is a his- is packed with practical information torically accurate report of the unique that starts with gem cutting for the Described on the cover as "a wo- solution to the problems that kept the beginner and progresses through man's life with four sons, a hundred local Indians from their rights guaran- sawing, grinding, sanding, polishing, animals and the brilliant desert of teed them by a treaty signed by Presi- the American Southwest," Ann Woo- dent U. S. Grant in 1876. This is the diamond drilling, cabachon cutting, first time the full story has been pub- novelties, treatment of individual din's first book is much more than lished. gemstones, and gemology. The book this resume. Married to the director is explanatory enough to guide serious of the famous Arizona-Sonora Desert $6, plus 20c postage and packing Museum near Tucson, Arizona, the (California addresses add 24c tax) amateurs, but chapters it contains were prepared by professionals and author leads a fascinating—or terri- Desert-Southwest, Inc., Publishers has something to enlighten anyone fying, depending upon your own P. O. Box 757 interested in working with gems. way of life—existence. Palm Desert, California 92260 $3.95. On the physical side she lives with

4 / Desert Magazine / April, .1965 her collecting husband, four collec- ing sons, snakes, coyotes, bobcats, lizards, peccaries, tarantulas and an SPICE YDUR occasional alligator, all of whom SPANISH WITH recommends these books about seem to think they are part of the DICHDS family and thus have a perfect right to make themselves comfortable in By Ricardo Castillo lost mines and treasure any room in the house. "Dichos" are the pungent Spanish THE DESERT IS YOURS by Erie Stanley Gardner. With great wit and humor, which proverbs which add so much color In his latest book on the desert areas of the could only be developed through the and logic to the conversation and West, the author again takes his reader with years of coping with her unusual thinking of our Mexican neighbors. him as he uses every means of transportation to explore the wilderness areas and sift the facts husband, Mrs. Woodin's anecdotes and rumors about such famous legends as the are hilarious, especially the one about "Cuanda joven de ilusiones, cuan- Lost Arch, Lost Dutchman and Lost Dutch Oven Sammy, the pet coyote that Bill do viejo de recuerdos" mines. 256 pages, illustrated. Hard cover. $7.50. Woodin had to teach how to yap When young, a man is full of LOST MINES AND HIDDEN TREASURES by Le- properly so the wild coyotes wouldn't land Lovelace. Authoritative and exact accounts ridicule him. The anecdotes are tied dreams; when old, they are mem- give locations and fascinating data about a lost ories. lake of gold in California, buried Aztec ingot together with informative comments in Arizona, kegs of coins, and all sorts of excit- and facts on desert life. "Cuando Dios da, da a manos ing booty for treasure seekers. Hardcover, $4.00. But Mrs. Woodin has done more llenas." TREASURE OF THE SANGRE DE CRISTOS by Ar- than present the physical side. She thur L. Campa. Illustrated by Joe Beeler. Tales When God gives. He gives a hand- cf lost mines stacked with golden bars, mule has captured the spirit of the desert ful. loads of silver cached away in outlaw hordes in beautiful prose. and Jesuit buried treasures are recounted with Profusely illustrated with excellent "Cuchillito de palo, no corta pero maps, legend, lore and fact. A new challenge incomoda." for lost mine hunters of the Southwest. Hard- photographs and with an introduc- ccver. 223 pages, $5.95. A wooden knife doesn't cut, but tion by Joseph Wood Krutch, the TRAILS OF THE ROCKIES by Perry Eberhart. 247-page hardcover book is $5.95. it bothers. Fascinating and thorough, with more than 120 stories of lost mines and treasures. Maps and "No se puede chiflar y beber< photos. $5.00. agua." SHEEPHERDER'S GOLD by Temple H. Cornelius. NATURAL HISTORY OF THE You can't whistle and drink water Lest gold in Colorado. One of the best. $4.50. SOUTHWEST at the same time. SOME WESTERN TREASURE TRAILS by Jesse E. Rasco. Paperback limited to 1000 copies. Lost Edited by William Burns "Caras vemos, corazones no sa- mines, meteorites, and treasures of six South- western states and Sonora. $2.00. Here is a book issued several years bemos." ago that is now available in paper- Faces we can judge, but hearts LOST DESERT BONANZAS by Eugene Conrotto, we cannot. Brief resumes of lost mine articles printed in back. Large format, 141 pages, and back issues of DESERT Magazine, by a former containing a number of superb full- editor. Hardcover, 278 pages. $6.75. color photographs, as well as excel- GHOST GOLD by Oren Arnold. The complete lent black and whites, it is such a story of Superstition Mountain and the famous fine desert reference book, and such AUTHORS! Lost Dutchman mine. Hardcover, $1.95. a bargain, that we wish to bring it LOST MINES OF DEATH VALLEY by Harold O. If you have completed a book-length manu- to the attention of DESERT readers. script, you may be interested in our special Weight. The first authentic history of Brey- publishing plan. Under this program, many fogle's gold in addition to other legendary lost With material assembled and super- lawyers, executives, teachers, scholars and even housewives have seen their work pub- mines in Death Valley by one of DESERT'S best vised by the famous Arizona-Sonora lished, promoted and marketed on a digni- lost mine writers. Paperback. $2.00. Museum, it covers the geology and fied, professional basis. All subjects considered — non-fiction, fiction, poetry, etc. LOST MINES OF OLD ARIZONA by Harold scenic splendor of the Southwest, its Send for our free 40-page illustrated bro- Weight. Covers the Lost Jabonero, lost mines chure today. Ask for Booklet, D. trees, flowers, shrubs, reptiles, birds of the Trigos, Buried Gold of Bicuner and others and mammals. Printed on the same VANTAGE PRESS, INC. of southwestern Arizona. Paperback, $2.00. heavy paper as the more expensive 120 W. 31st St., New York 1, N.Y. original, the only change is in the In Calif.: 6233 Hollywood Blvd., L.A. Order from: In Wash., D.C.: 1010 Vermont Ave., N.W. cover and price. This is a book you DESERT Magazine Book Department will refer to again and again and Palm Desert, California 92260 that will be of interest to schoolage children as well as adults. §1.95. ... A PERFECT GIFT Include 25c for postage and handling. California residents add 4% sales tax. CALIFORNIA GHOST TOWNS DESERT BINDERS GHOST TOWN GUIDE Keep your Desert Magazines for New guide to over 100 California ghost towns AND GOLD years as a reference and guide to Unique and authentic guide to over 100 future trips. Special 12-issue bind- ghost towns in California's deserts and moun- LEARN ABOUT THE COLORFUL GHOST tains with complete directions on how to TOWNS OF THE WEST - DIRECTORY CON- ers only $3.50 (inc. tax & postage) reach them. Shows you the way to little- TAINS INFORMATION ON OVER 340 GHOST known and intrigue-filled towns that provide DESERT MAGAZINE hours of interest for those seeking buried TOWNS FEATURING PICTURES, MAPS, PLUS treasures, old guns, western relics, purple INSTRUCTIONS ON PANNING GOLD. Palm Desert, Calif. 92260 bottles aged by the sun, and antique objects. PRICE: $1.00 Satisfaction guaranteed or money back. WRITE TO: Give an interesting gift Order Now! Only $1.95 PIERCE PUBLISHING COMPANY A. L. ABBOTT DEPARTMENT R Give DESERT Dept. D-14 BOX 5221 1513 West Romneya Drive — Anaheim, Calif. ABILENE, TEXAS only $4.50 a year

April, 1965 / Desert Magazine / 5 SCENIC TOURS HISTORIC MINING AND GHOST TOWNS OF OWENS VALLEY LONE PINE, CALIF.

TRIP ONE 11 Hours Monday, Wednesday, Friday $22.50 person, minimum 3 fares TRIP TWO 5 Hours Providence, U.S.A. Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday, Sunday $12.50 person, minimum 3 fares. IN THE YEAR 1929 Jack Mitchell was the table-topped Wild Horse TRIP THREE 5 Hours wandered into the Providence Moun- Mesa, covered with its lovely cloth of Tuesday, Thursday, tains of Southern California in search red rhyolite. Directly below lay the Saturday, Sunday of gold. He found no gold, only bats. mysterious Clipper and Fenner val- $8.50 person, minimum 3 fares. But the bats flew out of caverns in leys where many prospectors perished the twilight and it was these caverns, in the days of a gold stampede. Special Rates to groups of 15 or explored and brought to public at- Park Headquarters now occupy the more on all trips. tention by Mitchell, that acquired the Charter Service Available old home of Jack Mitchell and his status of a State Park in 1959. wife. As a ranger led us along the Write for detailed information on Intriguing stories of weird sights trail to the caverns, we passed several these and other trips and adventure have been told of the cave entrances closed to the public. Providence Mountains. We set out Not all of these join on the inside, CHUCK AND EVA WHITNEY one recent weekend to discover for we were told. Chemehuevi Indians Owners ourselves if they had any basis in once used them for storing pine nuts, Phone: TRipoly 6-345T or TRipoly 6-2281 P. O. Box 327 fact. but superstition prevented them from LONE PINE, CALIFORNIA Following U.S. Highway 66, we exploring the depths. That had to turned off onto the Mitchell Cavern wait for the white man. road at Essex and continued up the These caverns are not wired for side of one of the highest peaks in electricity, so visitors are provided the range. At a paved picnic and with flashlights—which adds to the Grand Canyon camping ground we stopped for excitement. As the air grew cool and lunch and to enjoy the vast pano- our voices sounded strangely subter- ramic view. Looking east, it was pos- ranean, our torches highlighted River Trips sible to see the Black Mountains of stalactites and stalagmites. It was a Arizona, a range approximately 85 air weird world, alright — just as we'd **** miles from where we stood. North heard. Squeezing through narrow rrrfT •& : m Operators of ALL

Wild Rivers in the West

30 Years Experience

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6 / Desert Magazine / April, 1965 by Barbara Peterson

ore car. Broken pottery and china pave the grounds of rickety resi- Explore the West dences—some originally shipped from England to provide refinement to the at its best in an rough camp. AVION Travel Trailer Above the townsite is the main ind new fun at unspoiled spots in a shaft of the Bonanza King. Approxi- go-anywhere Avion. This travel trailer mately 20 feet from the entrance the ikes to tame back trails. Its riveted dirt had fallen away to reveal an aluminum construction is tough, unbelievable sight. At first glance eatherlight and Lifetime Guaranteed. it resembles a gigantic plumbing sys- highest rated by test reports. tem. But this one was installed by Nature, not man. Its "pipes" appear nside, enjoy deluxe accommodations: to be of solid granite, but when we lot and cold running water, heat, dropped stones through their net- ights, complete kitchen, modern bath. work, ricochets continued almost in- Vlany self-contained conveniences terminably. Could this be an exten- available. sion of some still unexplored cavern hoose from 5 in the Providences? models — family- Exploring a gorge west of town, we engineered bj> America's travel were rewarded with geodes and Write for travel apache tears and desert flora pre- vehicle specialists. trailer catalog "D" sented treasures for the senses. Yes, everything we'd heard about the NEW A vion Camper Coach Providences was true — adventure, mystery, treasure and beauty. The only thing wrong with our trip was the time. It wasn't enough! /// passages amid sculpture erected by Nature some 225 million years ago, we marveled at the courage displayed by Jack Mitchell in blazing this spooky trail. In addition to the World's lightweight champion camper for cavern open to easier hauling, better gas mileage. Same Avion the public, there is another called quality construction and superior features. Cave of the Winding Stairs which ex- Completely self-contained. For those who perienced spelunkers may explore if appreciate the finest. proper preparations are made and; permission obtained from park offi-' Send for camper cials. coach catalog "D 2" From the caverns, the rangers directed us to the ex-town of Providence, TRAVEL Askaboutourexclusive Travelcade frequented today only by bottle hun- Club program. Fun, fellowship and ters and ghost town chasers. At its BONUS adventure for Avion owners. peak, this community boasted of 3000 citizens, all supported by the great Bonanza King Mine. In its center stands the shambles of a large mercantile building, but the only dis- Mitchell's Caverns are now in a SAN JACIIMTO, CALIFORNIA play these days is an empty, well-used State Park. BENTON HARBOR, MICHIGAN

April, 1965 / Desert Magazine / 7 YOUR OWN ARCTIC EXPEDITION ! No one, who has not experienced it, can really appreciate the wondrous Arctic mid- summer days and nights. For 1025 miles down the magnificent Mac- kenzie River—plus 310 water miles across the Arctic Circle—in JUL.-AUG. 1964—we generally wore the same type clothing one uses in the mild So. Cal. winter climate. We were shooting Kodachromes in the Eskimo village of Tuk-to-yak-tuk, and while flying over miles and miles of ice floes, in shirt sleeve weather at 68 F. Bring your own boat. Bring your own family. Bring your own everything. We will guide you for 32 days, 1025 miles, per family boat, for $100. This is a private venture—our first flotilla run in 27 years—but, with special encour- agement and assistance from the Canadian Government. Come, join one of the boating trips of your lifetime. You may also join as an "All- expense" guest for $850, no U.S. tax. Larabee and Aleson Western River Tours TEASDALE, UTAH

MOVING? SO YOU WILL NOT MISS AN ISSUE NOTIFY US AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. There is a change of address form in your current

LUDICROUS COMIC when American continent. Measured by earthbound, an unsurpassed monarch wingspread, rather than body weight, in the skies, this is but one of the they outclass their cousins, the heav- paradoxes of the California Condor, ier-bodied South American condors, that aloof, lonely, seldom-seen bird, as the largest flying birds in the fighting the most desperate battle for world. survival of any of America's vanish- Despite its gigantic wingspread, the ing species of wildlife. California Condor is not actually a A recent sighting of a flight of 11 flying bird. Rather, it relies upon an This year discover young condors by fire-guard person- ability to shift the air currents which nel has given hope that these gigantic carry it aloft. A mature condor has THE DIFFERENT WORLD OF birds, relics of a prehistoric past, may been observed to soar for almost an be winning their battle. How far the hour, twisting and turning, raising victory may go remains a question, and lowering, with only once or twice depending largely upon how far man, flapping its wings. If you like variety, you'll love the condor's sole natural enemy, is Observed at close hand, the con- Utah, where you'll find majestic able to assist in the struggle. dor takes no beauty crown. A close mountains, trout-loaded streams relative of the vulture, the adult and lakes, rainbows of color in Best estimates indicated that not the Red Rock Country and land- more than 60 of these giant birds re- bird possesses a naked, orangish-red marks of history in every city. main within their two remote, care- head and neck, baleful red-rimmed fully guarded sanctuaries in Santa eyes, dusty black plumage with white Plan your Utah trip with the aid of Barbara and Ventura Counties in wing underlinings, and grotesque a FREE Utah Vacation Guide and road map. Write today! Send your Southern California. Rarity is not turkey-like feet. After gorging him- name and address to: the condor's sole claim to fame. Their self on a meal, his crop becomes so size: weight up to 25 pounds, and a Department 103 distended that a pouch of scarlet pro- Utah Tourist Council wingspread of 10 feet makes them tudes from the breast feathers. Council Hall, State Capitol , Salt Lake City, Utah the largest land bird on the North When running in awkward, pigeon-

8 /Desert Magazine / April, 1965 toed strides, his wings flapping clum- borne maturity. Even ihcn, the sily, he makes a ludicrous sight, but young bird's flying ability remains once airborne, soaring in the currents clumsy for some time. Wildeirness Expeditions that are his birthright, he is unsurpassed for grace. Young condors, whose first wing BOA1 "INS quills are acquired three months • CATARACT CANYON His ancestors existed in prehistoric after hatching, have a dark gray head » DESOLATION CANYON times, as proven by the recovery of and neck and lack the white wing » SALMON RIVER t YUKON RIVER fossil remains from the La Brea Tar linings of the adult. Gradually, over i > MISSOURI RIVER Pits in Los Angeles—fossils aptly and a five-year period, they take on the picturesquely labeled "tera tornis in- adult plumage and not until then HIKIh\G credibilis." But, after surviving the do they reach mating age. » ESCALANTE CANYON tests of centuries, man and civiliza- 1 KANAB CANYON tion proved his nemesis. By 1849 and Within the last decade, realizing i > DIRTY DEVIL RIVER mere protection was not enough, <» ZION NARROWS the California Gold Rush, the gargan- 1 tuan birds still existed in numerous wildlife and forestry officials and PAO CING quantity, but it was discovered that members of the Audubon Society » ESCALANTE CANYON their huge, hollow quills made fine worked together in securing the pre- » KAIPAROWITS PLATEAU receptacles for gold dust. For this, sent sanctuary of some 35,000 rugged Send for our thousands were slaughtered, plus acres in the Los Padres National pedition Literature thousands more by trigger - happy Forest of Santa Barbara and Ventura miners. Compounding the slaughter, Counties for the last stand of this UI.III erland Expeditions cowboys made a sport of roping the vanishing bird. KEN SLEIGHT, GUIDE birds when they were so heavy from Here in isolated crags they have ESCALANTE, UTAH gorging themselves that they couldn't their nesting and roosting area. get into the air. Then, cattle and Waterfalls and rain-fed potholes fur- flock be able to find food? sheep men, ignorant of the fact con- nish their drinking water. Here they Meanwhile, roosting at night on dors were scavengers rather than pre- dip their curved beaks to take a sip, his high perch, bare neck shrunk into dators, waged further war on them lift their heads to swallow, red eyes a protective ruff of feathers, waiting in the mistaken belief that they car- in constant, wary appraisal of their lor dawn with its warming sunlight ried off young livestock. Extinction surroundings. Here they bathe, and awakening breezes to carry him was almost complete by the turn of some content with merely wading aloft, the condor lives much as he the century when collectors went into the deeper pools, others more has lor thousands of years. Since the forth to secure mounted specimens energetic, shoveling water over their day of the saber-toothed tiger and and eggs for museums. Finally, in back with great dipping motions of giant sloth, he has survived. Now 1913, laws were passed protecting the their wings. his fate is up to man! /// condor against hunter and collector alike. As ugly as the infant condor may be to human eyes, he must be un- APACHE LAND These laws of protection were believably beautiful to his parents scant aid. Nature herself seems to in view of the slavish hours devoted BEAUTIFUL have ill-equipped the condor for sur- to his upbringing. In the adults SCENERY vival. Their normal diet is game there is no notable difference in the FISHING HUNTING which has died of natural causes. plumage of the male and female. In FREE Gradually the condor was forced into the mating season, the male performs CAMP GROUNDS remote, inaccessible regions where a clumsy courtship dance, waddling MODERN CABINS game, dying in overgrown chaparral, and weaving from side to side, wings was inaccessible for them. Like our partially spread and head and neck a Vacation Land modern jets, condors require a long arched coyly toward his breast. runway for take-off. Forty feet is to Remember often needed for their clumsy, flap- Though the sanctuary provides ping struggle to lift into the air. For adequate nesting, drinking and court- this reason, they require a rocky, ship areas, its 35,000 acres does not craggy habitat where food lies in the provide the necesary food. As a result, open; when they can step from high much of the condor's feeding is done perches into the air currents that within their 200-mile soaring range carry them aloft. outside the sanctuary. Cattlemen, once their foe, have In addition, the condor's own mon- become their staunchest friends and ogamous mating habits have not help- leave the carcasses of cattle lying in ed. It is believed the birds do not open areas adjacent to the sanctuary mate until at least five years of age, mmm unmolested for the condors. These and then usually for life. An adult The White Mountain Apache Indians welcome you. cattle carcasses comprise their prin- Come and enjoy the wonderful mountain climate, pair produces but a single greenish- cipal source of food. white egg every other year. This is the beautiful primitive scenery, clear, cold streams and the best trout fishing in the Southwest. laid in a dusty pothole, small cave The recent sighting of the eleven or other natural declevity high in the young condors gives hope that the FOR INFORMATION AND MAPS, WRITE rocks. The parents alternate in sit- flock is increasing. It had generally ting on the egg for the 42-day incu- been believed that only some five or WHITE MOUNTAIN bation period and share in the feed- six young were being produced a year, RECREATION ENTERPRISE ing of the fledgling, which requires a about equal to the number of adult P.O. BOX218 minimum of at least seven months birds that die. But if the condors WHITERIVER, ARIZONA of parental attention to reach air- are on the increase, will a larger

April, 1965 / Desert Magazine / 9 Desert HOLDS SECRET OF HEALTHY HEART by I. Aizic Sechter

IF YOU WANT a good heart, go There wasn't even a significant in- It is milk which has been obtained to the desert!" That's a conclusion crease in the blood cholesterol of from sheep, goats, camels and occa- reached by several Israeli doctors. men over the age of 30. It seems, sionally asses. The milk of camels "And if you can't go to the desert," therefore, that blood cholesterol is considered most nutritious of all. they advise, "at least heed the diet of doesn't increase automatically with By allowing the milk to sour, they desert dwellers." aging, but is probably related to di- are doing a good thing biologically, etary habits. as typhoid and other harmful bacilli A group of Israeli scientists have cannot survive in sour milk. Fat is been studying the life and diets of These semi-nomadic tribes rely on removed to make "samneh," a kind a tribe of semi-nomadic desert dwel- good rain years to provide them with of sour butter which is either drunk lers, the Bedouins. Only one case of their main staple of grains, mostly or boiled with salt to make hard coronary thrombosis was found barley, which they store in anticipa- cheese. among 510 Bedouin men 30 years tion of drought; they also graze and older. This finding confirms the sheep, goats, camels and some cows This diet may not sound attrac- clinical impression of doctors who on sparse desert plants. They num- tive to the average American, espe- practice among the Bedouins, that ber about 18,000 and live in Israel's cially when accompanied by the fol- coronary heart disease is conspicu- southern Negev desert. lowing "don'ts" which the Bedouins ously rare among Israeli Bedouins. observe. They don't drink alcohol, The Bedouins don't know what except for an occasional beer. They cooking means. Like those of Ameri- The examination of the nutrition eat meat only when entertaining can Indians, their kitchen utensils of the Bedouins was conducted by guests. Then they display a pro- Professor Joannes Juda Groen and are simple, primitive, and easily transported when camps are moved. digious hospitality by slaughtering Professor Fritz Drey fuss of the Had- a sheep or lamb and consuming the assah-Hebrew University Medical Their food is monotonous; even holiday dishes rarely vary. A type of entire animal at one meal. On an Center, with the cooperation of bio- average, meat is eaten about once a chemist, Dr. E. Yaron and Dieticians unleavened bread that looks and tastes like crackers is called "rarif" month. Most families eat chicken Mr. Miriam Balough and Mina Levy. more often. They hardly touch vege- Results revealed that the blood cho- and is the main food of Bedouin tribes, no matter how rich or poor. tables, fruit and eggs and many have lesterol of the Bedouins falls con- never seen a fish. siderably below that considered nor- The second portion of their diet is mal in modern Western populations. liquid—a sour milk they call "afik." All this adds up to the fact that the Bedouins of both sexes have low body weights and thin layers of ART GREENE subcutaneous fat. This is a great advantage in bearing the heat of sez — the desert, as heat is dissipated more / easily by thin people. Howdy, partner! So, if you really want to "live" in the desert, you'd better learn to eat Come try our like a nomad. You won't have to vary the menu or worry about wash- ing dishes. Your only problem will be in finding a camel to milk! /// // Boati COOL COMFORT

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10 / Desert Magazine / April, 1965 GOLD NUGGETS MADE TO ORDER 8Y SAM HICKS

1 HROUGHOUT THE Sierra still a medium of exchange in these Madre of Mexico gold is used daily parts and, although it is by no means in business transactions. Chinipas, plentiful, the widespread knowledge Trigo Moreno, Moris, Santa Maria, of its existence tends to attract un- Pilar and La Cienega are names of educated buyers. So, with these but a few of the active hard rock thoughts in mind, some prospectors mines scattered along the eroded have elected to use deception in western slope of the Mother Moun- order to increase the pitiful volume tains. In Pilar and La Cienega there of gold dust for which they have is still more gold used in trade today worked so hard. than there is money. When the sand and gravel has Prospectors are still panning and been separated from the values and sluicing gold in the main Mulatos expertly sluiced over the edge of the River, and they are slowly extracting bowl, the placer miner cuts tiny slices tiny quantities of it from tributaries of lead from the nose of a bullet into of the Rios Yaqui and Mayo. Jobs I he wisp of gold remaining in the Above: David Hurtado examines nug- are as scarce in this mountain region get purchased from novelty store. pan. He next removes the gold and as gold is precious, and when beans lead from the pan with quicksilver, Below: He's surprised to find it and tortillas are few, versatile Mexi- plated with real gold. and after several similar operations, can workers head for the hills and squeezes the mineral-laden mercury streams with picks and shovels and through a tough cotton rag. The their gold pans—usually large, mis- quicksilver retrieved in the wringing- shapen wooden bowls called bateas. out process is returned to the miner's An offshoot of the prevalent up- flask, but the twisting, squeezing and surge in Mexico's general economy tapping of the amalgam continues is the desire of tourists, chiefly Mexi- long after the last shiny bead of can but some are American, to pur- quicksilver has emerged from the chase raw gold from prospectors fresh taut fabric. Finally, when the amal- in from the mountains and display gam cannot be further concentrated evidence of their success in the through pressure alone, the rag is form of shiny nuggets. The tourists, tied off to prevent it from untwisting upon their return to the cities, then and the bundle is placed in the hot have their gold fashioned into spe- coals of an open fire. As the rag cialty items such as charms for brace- burns from the button, the amalgam lets. can be seen to glow a cherry red. By this time the lead and gold are fused The increasing demand and local sufficiently well that the lead cannot bartering for gold in Mexico has be detected by sight. raised the price of it considerably and has resulted in the practice, by Hardrock miners who separate certain prospectors and gold dealers, their gold through primitive milling of making a little gold go a long way. processes such as arrastras, are also None of the methods presently used now inclined to spread the net value in Mexico for selling gold-plated of their product over as large an rocks or coated chunks of bronze and area as they deem expedient before lead are either new or different. They marketing it. These men rarely have are noticed mostly because gold is the necessary facilities needed for

A button of real placer gold panned from Imitation, gold plated coarse rocks may also the Mulatas River of Sonora. be purchased.

April, 1965 / Desert Magazine / 11 go}d-pfoting at their mines. So, after for many years in moving heavy min- times nervously, while the buyer ob- collecting a few pure gold buttons, ing and milling equipment with a serves signs of corrosive action, if they set out for the nearest friendly string a pack mules into rough coun- any, on the gold. If the gold is good, goldsmith who would just as soon do try. the few impurities exposed by cutting custom work for miners as he would On one of the Hurtado's contracts, it are rapidly consumed and the for tourists. David and his father carried 16 tons strings of tiny bubbles stop rising The miner shows the craftsman of mining cars, rails, heavy flywheels to the surface. If it has been tam- his gold, then places an order for and axles and journals a distance of pered with, or loaded, the buyer in- the number of nuggets he wishes. 90 miles to the La Moneda mine. vites the seller to either stick around The customer specifies whether the On each of their return trips from until the acid stops bubbling or come base should be rock, bronze or lead the mountains to the railroad, each back the following day when a deal and also determines whether his mule in their string carried 300 for the remaining gold can be made. nuggets should be "solid gold" or pounds of ore. As a result of David In the gold trade of the Sierra decorated artistically with a few growing up and working with min- Madre the thin shells of plating fragments of white quartz. In the ing men most of his life, he developed which remain, after nitric acid has goldsmith's shop there is a variety an uncanny ability to accurately eaten away the worthless center cores, of choices open to the miner with judge the value of most ore at a occur so regularly that they are dub- regard to the shape and size of the glance. At one time David lived with bed by dealers as "peanut shells." nuggets he desires. Expediency must the Pima Indians who placer mine the No one becomes angry when a col- be used in determining the thickness Yecora and Mulatos Rivers for the lection of beautiful nuggets are trans- of the pure gold plating to be applied only income they ever know other formed into "peanut shells" during to the rocks or base metals used for than receiving a few staple foods in a business deal. Instead, the parties the cores. exchange for the hats they weave involved shrug their shoulders, drink Rough rocks, when properly plated, during certain seasons of the year. In a cerveza and laughingly remark that make the prettiest nuggets of all short, David knows mining in Mex- selling gold is a lot like being in love, but the problem of insufficient ico and all the tricks that have yet or at being at war. weight is always present and they are been devised to sell gold for more sometimes hard to sell. Lead and than it is worth. Beautiful nuggets of all sizes, pit- ted and rough with white quartz bronze therefore are more popular According to him, the village store- with nugget makers. deeply imbedded in them can now keepers who daily exchange goods be bought in probably several places A prior knowledge of the prospec- for gold, and the professional dealers, throughout California. Woodworth's tive buyer is an important factor now follow a strict set of rules in Rock Shop of 975 Buschmann Road, when ordering custom made nug- buying chunk gold. Paradise, California, or, Goldene gets. On the scratch test will the Whenever nuggets or amalgam Products, Drawers "O", Sun City, tourist cut deep enough to expose buttons are spread before them, they California, are two places where I the rock? Or will he be happy with quickly cut every one in half with a personally know they can be obtain- a perfunctory acid test which cannot heavy belt knife. Frequently it's ed. I'm sure there are more. penetrate an expert job of plating. necessary to use a hammer to tap the These nuggets are excitingly heavy, David Hurtado of Yecora, Sonora, blade through the pieces of gold, but rich in color — and completely Mexico, has been closely associated in every instance the nuggets, or but- with mining people in the Sierra phoney. The people who sell them tons, are split in two. The gold is to you in a business establishment are Madre all his life. He and his father then placed in a glass container of were ranchers, but they specialized the first to tell you so. 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14 / Desert Magazine / April, 1965 According to this mining engineer, black gold nuggets hide among desert varnished rocks beside ancient springs in a number of locations across the Colorado desert. Here is a novel and interesting solution to the mystery of Pegleg's widespread black gold, submitted before last month's Pegleg discovery was released.

NEW CLUE TO PEGLEG'S GOLD

These Indian ceremonial rock rings are not from the Chocolate Mountains, but may mark another area where Pegleg's black gold could be found. by John Southworth gold nuggets heavily stained with support his coffee pot for a midday desert varnish, and left us a legacy break, he spotted an area of small A MINING engineer, I had that has been hard to collect. In black pebbles. These interested him always held a cavalier attitude to- fact, with so many Pegleg Smiths at because of their extreme weight so, ward the Lost Pegleg gold saga, in large in the Southwest prior to 1900, before continuing his journey, hq all its variations and locales. But the general location of the Lost Peg- gathered a bandana full. Later, in that was before! Now, having tracked leg is subject to severe argument. San Bernardino, he left the rocks down the story, I'm a believer. Some lave claimed its true location with an assayer who eventually pur- We're going to have to hurry, though, as far away as Alaska! But there was chased them all for SHOO, which the if we want to track down any of that gold, and it was black, and wherever railroad man considered adequate elusive black gold. It's disappearing it came from, it was Pegleg Gold. compensation for his trouble. Later rapidly, and I will tell you why. For thus it is written in the legends he was transferred to Arizona, where of the West. he died. But first, a bit of background. Old Pegleg Smith was a desert char- I wasn't much interested in all this A well-organized party of searchers, acter well-known throughout the controversy until an unpublished including a nephew of the railroad West for the fantastic tales he told story came to my attention. It was man, spent three months in Mam- and the life he led. With his ob- so fresh, simple, and direct that I moth Wash in a fruitless search for vious physical hallmark, he was rec- could no longer ignore the Black the black pebbles. Later a Mr. Earl ognized from Salt Lake City to Yuma Gold of the Colorado Desert. Newcomb heard the story from the and San Diego. Even before he died, nephew and personally checked on Shortly after the completion of the and for many years afterward, indi- the $1400 gold sale to the San Ber- railroad through Yuma to Los An- viduals with a missing leg cashed in nardino assayer. Finding it true, he geles, a Southern Pacific man was on his notoriety by calling them- took up the search in the company directed by his office in San Bernar- selves Smith, whether they were or of a Mr. Don Gierens of Glendale, dino to visit the railroad holdings to not. And so the deeds of his imita- California. Several jeep trips netted the east of the main line. His course tions, of which there were a surpris- them nothing but experience. The led him from Glamis north into the ing number, have become so confused story came to me from Mr. Gierens, Chocolate Mountains via Mammoth with those of the original that it's whom I met through the Lockheed Wash and back into the Salton Sink difficult to separate myth from fact. Employees Mining and Prospecting via what is now called Salvation Pass. Club. The real Thomas L. Smith was When Mammoth Wash narrowed born in Kentucky in 1801 and died down, he climbed out on a game At this point, I entered the story in California in 1866. Somewhere trail to the left and as he traveled myself. Realizing that in interven- in between he lost a foot, found along this trail looking for rocks to ing years, especially during the De-

April, 1965 / Desert Magazine / 15 pression '30s, War Training '40s, and tried to "blossom" some of the rocks Pegleg gold, The main ingredients the Jackrabbit Homestead '50s, thou- in the manner of Cripple Creek pros- are, besides the black gold itself, a sands of people must have covered pectors on the trail of gold tellurides. tiriaja filled with good water and two the area by every means of transpor- A few feet to the side of the trail, volcanic cones. Now this takes us back, tation, I didn't expect to find enough standing 10 feet above the fan and full circle, to Hayden Well, where I black pebbles to bring big money, exposed all the way to the bottom of found good water, evidence of vol- but I did want to find out how they the bluff, was a pipe, or "blowout," canic activity, and someone else had got there in the first place. To ac- of dark igneous rock, perhaps olivene found black gold. However, gold had complish this, I entered the area ahd hornblende—a complete stranger absolutely no business being on top from the south, leaving the railroad in the brown varnished rocks. But of an alluvial deposit near Hayden in early morning, walking, and men- the pits were not near this, as would Well. Gold was not native to that tally putting myself in the shoes of be logical. Instead, they were out on deposit nor to the dark hornblende the railroad investigator. the flat amid a series of ancient In- of the intrusive igneous plug. No, Now that investigator, like myself, dian prayer rings—large rocks placed that gold had been brought in by had probably never been there be- in circles. Jeep tracks were every- someone. The deposit had been fore and was probably as surprised where, especially around Hayden "salted," if you will! as I to find that, for all its magnifi- Well, the modern location of an an- But here at Hayden Well I had a cent name, Mammoth Wash soon cient water source. third, more important Pegleg ingre- necked into a narrow arroyo between After returning home, I dug up dient. One unreported in stories a butte and the main Chocolate every issue of DESERT Magazine where such details seem irrelevant, or Mountains, with no indication of back to its very beginning. Most of pass unnoticed. I had overwhelming continuity to the north or east. What the Pegleg gold stories suggested a evidence of Indian occupancy; not would a stranger do if he were ex- fabulous deposit with rich float'show- for habitation, but for ceremonial pected to cross these formidable ing on the surface. This seems to purpose. mountains. have developed from the fact that So far, no one had put two and Ahead I noticed a distinct lower- each "authentic" story included one two together. All accepted the coming of the butte to the left and, ex- or more black buttes or volcanic mon belief that the Indians had no pecting that my long-gone guide of cones. And, didn't gold and volcan- interest in gold until after the white some 65 years before had had the ic activity go hand in hand? So here man came. But is that really true? same problem, I determined to climb grew up a popular false clue! Only Bailey in his Golden Mirages, ex- out at the first opporunity, the bet- occasionally did I read that a Pegleg plained the entire mystery when, dis- ter to see what troubles lay beyond. search was being abandoned or shifted cussing another desert gold occur- After a short climb, a view to the to another area "because gold just ence, he said "The Indians said they east assured me that the wash con- didn't occur on the surface in such had always known it was there, and tinued and was large and easy to terrain." So near the truth, but not they got some of it once when they traverse—but it also revealed some- near enough! made an offering to the God of thing else. In an adjacent gully, a Let's look at a typical story about Water." Bailey should have paid trail climbed like a painted streak up an eroded wrinkle and onto a smooth alluvial fan which the main EDITOR'S NOTE: The weakness in this theory—that American In- wash had abandoned for a lower dians did not value gold before they learned of its worth from the channel. white man—must be considered in light of the fact that geologists have still not determined the length of time it takes desert varnish to form. Now this was more like it! Pegleg's It is probable that gold nuggets coated with desert varnish have been story matched the terrain so I wasted exposed in desert areas for many hundreds of years, as the climate no time in getting to the top of that in the region concerned has not varied appreciably for at least 600 mesa. The trail, which had been de- years . . . long before the arrival of white man. If they were deposited scribed as one made by animals, was there by Indians, the tribes who left them would have been prehistoric actually a well-defined Indian trail tribes about which we know nothing today. Ancient petroglyphs worn into desert-varnished paving. beside certain desert waterholes indicate some sort of water worship. With my eyes to the ground, I walk- These also are heavily coated with desert varnish. ed for nearly a mile, paralleling the main channel of Mammoth Wash Called "dunkel Rinden" by the Germans, patination by scien- which was on my right, until the tists, and desert varnish by most of us, these coated stones occur in trail disappeared up a long ridge go- desert regions all over the world. French scientist G. Flamand attri- ing north, while Mammoth Wash butes it to rain water which has soaked into the rock and then been went east. brought back to the surface by capillary action and there evaporated, leaving a deposit of chemicals with which it has become charged, This was the place, all right, but according to the composition of the rock itself. The process requires there were no heavy black pebbles. neither too much, nor too little moisture. With too much, moisture This area, as is probably true of leaves the rock in a liquid form; with too little, salts are not dissolved. other Pegleg gold locations, had been In addition, he states that close grained rocks darken slowly due to cleaned out by persons who had no the action of sunlight. reason to report their find officially. I found no gold, but saw many things Another theory described by the late Jerry Laudermilk in significant to a mining engineer. DESERT (July '41) introduces the idea that it's a lichen that attacks Most important, the trail crossed an rocks which contain iron and manganese. In a rainy season the alluvial fan of impressive propor- lichen decays and the iron and manganese pass into solution and tions where it would be physically reprecipitate on surrounding rocks of any kind. This sort of thing con- impossible for surface gold to occur tinues century after century, toasting under the hot desert sun. naturally. But the gold had been Today's scientists remain uncommitted to any definite theory, there. Someone had spent a lot of agreeing only that desert varnish takes a long and undetermined time digging little pits, and had even time to form. C.P.

16 / Desert Magazine / April, 1965 more attention to his own words! Indians were true sons of the bar- ren lands for unknown thousands of years. Water, of the utmost im- portance in the desert, figured heavily in their religious rites. They stayed close the their Father of Waters, the snow-born Colorado River, whenever possible. And wasn't gold important to this life-sustaining source? Surely gold must be important to the God of Water, for does not Father River hoard these bright yellow pellets for him in favored spots? Such favored spots would later carry the names of La Paz, Picacho, and Mission San Pedro y San Pablo de Bicuner, the latter, near modern Yuma, the place THE FAMILY VEHICLE FOR YEAR-ROUND FUN! where Indians martyred Padre Fran- Exclusive Sliding Canopy Top cisco Garces and gave the mission gold Only Pullman Camper features this exclusive and patented Canopy Top which adds 36 square back to their God of Water, the feet of area and can be completely enclosed with special fitted curtains. It takes only a river. minute to unsnap the tension latches and roll out on rugged nylon rollers. Guaranteed not to rattle. IN THE TREELESS DESERT AREAS WHERE SHADE MEANS LIFE YOU ARE SAFE So, said the natives in serious AND COMFORTABLE WITH THE PATENTED PULLMAN CANOPY. council, we will gather these powerful gifts where they are many and Other Pullman Features where there is much water and take STRONG LIGHTWEIGHT CONSTRUCTION. Tubular aluminum framework provides greater them to places where the God of strength yet reduces over-all weight and gas costs. Safety glass in all stationary windows. Water has trouble keeping the tinajas LOADING MADE EASY. Extra-wide four-foot rear door. full. Thus, we will gain favor and SPACE SAVING. Door table cabinet provides storage space and doubles as table or work area. have precious water when we need it CLEAN, DRY INTERIOR. Water-tight and dust proof Neoprene gaskets around all windows, most. But we can't just put the shin- doors and underside. ing particles out on the ground in Prices Start at Only $375.00 the same fashion we offer rocks to VISIT OUR MODERN PLANT AND SEE FOR YOURSELF, OR WRITE FOR FREE BROCHURE TO the Mountain Gods. No, we must PULLMAN CAMPERS, DEPT. DM, 8211 PHLOX ST., DOWNEY, CALIFORNIA go to the home of the God of Earth, TELEPHONE TOpaz 2-7968 or SPruce 3-5686. who throws up fiery fingers in the hot desert, and close the entrance to his home with heavy rocks. And so the golden nuggets began to move from the Colorado River to new locations across the hot desert lands, transported bit by bit by count- less native hands from a place where there was much water, to places where water was scarce and needed encour- agement. This was done, time and time again, until desert locations with precarious water supplies had collected a store of unnatural gold around the nearest volcanic plug or cone and been marked with ceremonial rock rings. As for the gold particles lying in the sun, they collected a coat of desert varnish along with other rocks • 97" WHEELBASE > exposed to the elements. But there f 132" WHEELBASE- was one great difference. The golden pebbles had been worn smooth by There's nothing on the market like water action before Indians moved the DATSUN Pickup. Compact in size, DATSUN them to these sites of springs, many yet its big 6 foot bed holds up to now extinct. 2,000*payload. Powerful 4 cylinder PICKUP engine and new full command 4- So I say to you, the supply of Peg- speed stick shift gives rugged per- leg Gold distributed across the face formance — but still delivers up to Send me literature and name of nearest dealer. of the Colorado Desert was always 31 miles per gallon. DATSUN's low Mail to: NISSAN MOTOR CORP. IN U.S.A., DEPT. limited. Much, if not all, has been maintenance saves up to 50% on 137 E. Alondra Blvd., Gardena, Calif. operating costs. send information on • DATSUN Pickup collected and lost, but in Pegleg's DELIVERS with WSW Tires, Heater, time there was still enough to en- Vinyl Interior, Torsion-Bar Suspension Name courage all of the "Smiths" to en- for only $1,596 plus lie, tax, D & H, Address thuse over their finds. Old Pegleg and local freight. City State may have been guilty of exaggeration, ATTENTION CAR DEALERS—Add DATSUN to your but not of lying. /// present line, inquire on a DATSUN Dealer Franchise!

April, 1965 / Desert Magazine / 17 PAI PAI LAND

J.N THE VALLEY of Santa Cata- rina, 100 miles south of the U.S. border in Baja California's high desert, there lives one of the few remaining communities of the descendants of the original inhabitants. They are of the Pai Pai Indians. Because their ancestors resisted subordination by zealous Spanish missionaries, they were saved from the annihilation that befell other native tribes who contacted the white foreigner's di- seases. cate to a sign "Rancho el Compadre," the Mision Santa Catarina de los where we turned south from the high- Yumas was "surrounded by the fierc- We recently visited a family of way onto a good rotten-granite road est Indians on the Peninsula." It was Santa Catarina Pai Pais. The trip which carried us through high mesa the last Baja mission founded by the was instituted by Florence Shipek, an land painted pink with filaree blos- Dominicans (1797), established for anthropologist who realized that valu- soms. Towns are marked on the map ihe purpose of linking Baja Califor- able knowledge regarding the cus- but they aften consist of little more nia missions with those of Sonora toms and language of this dwindling than a rancho, such as El Compadre, and the Colorado Basin. Repeated tribe must be recorded soon—or be or a cemetery, such as Neji, although revolts finally culminated in a whop- lost forever. My husband and I ac- larger communities do lie off on side per of one in 1840, after which the companied the expedition as photo- roads. last of the padres was driven away graphers, but afterward left the party and the mission burned. Indians liv- to follow a route described by Ran- ing there now, however, consider dall Henderson 13 years ago when he the mission's melted adobe walls sa- photographed some of these same cred ground. These mounds, out- tribesmen for DESERT (July '52). lining rooms, exterior walls and, on Crossing the border at Tecate, we a lower level, an oven and retaining picked up Ambrosio Thing, a half- wall of an old dam are all that re- Diegueno and half-American who is main today. related by marriage to a member of A new dam constructed of rein- the Santa Catarina Pai Pais and who forced concrete, rock and dirt-filled, was to act as our guide. Then we catches summer rains and holds water proceeded some 16 miles east of Te- from a year-round spring named Ojo de Agua (Eye of Water) . American Sheep graze in the high desert country between La Herta and Santa Catarina. Vegetation is juni- per, yucca, opuntia, ribbonwood and ephedra—the latter spreading a wild blanket of orange blossoms over the land. Pino Solo is indicated on the map, but the "lone pine" is now a fallen giant and the natives have erected a barbed wire enclosure and, hopefully, planted a sapling pinon pine in the spot where the road curved around the former tree. After all, es la costumbre! Santa Catarina is a small cultivated valley (elevation 3600) surrounded by hills over which large granite boulders exceed the brush. It's people are healthy, happy, proud of their valley, their children, their school, and their dam. To us they were friendly and hospitable, but it was evident they appreciated our proper introduction via Senor Thing. Historian A. W. North wrote that

18 / Desert Magazine / April, 1965 BY BETTY MACKINTOSH photos by Bill Mackintosh

friends of the Pai Pais helped with its design and construction and provided cement for walling and lining an open-ditch canal which carries water from the dam to the village. This is a source of community pride . . . and well it might be, consider- ing the number of years predecessors of the tribe failed to think of it. With the coming of darkness, Jefe Juan Albanes welcomed our party

Pino 5olo CALIFORNIA

want to repeat—especially in the springtime when wild lilacs are in bloom or, later, when low desert temperatures are too high for comfort and this country remains pleas- antly cool. Like much of Baja, there are no accommodations below Tecate. You formally in Pai Pai, after which must be sell-sufficient as to gasoline, Eugenio Albanes, the aged chief bed, food and water, but peace, quiet singer, rattled his gourds for atten- and beauty lie in abundance all tion and announced the Wildcat along the way. /// Song. This tribal chant tells the story of a man who turned into a wildcat. The dance that accompanies it is performed by young and old together, who link arms in a long line and sway back and forth with the singers, stepping in time to the changing rhythms of the song. Leaving Santa Catarina in the morning, we followed close along the ridge of the Sierra Juarez, soon coming into pine and pinon country where extensive logging operations struck a fine note of progress. Here and there shallow lake beds reflec- ted the blue sky and rocky peaks of the sierra punctured the scenery. Our trail consisted of two tracts, faint at that, but it was a solid one and gave us no trouble. Even without a professional incentive to visit Santa Catarina, the trip is one we

April, 1965 / Desert Magazine / 19 THE IMPOSSIBLE MOUNTAIN

kS YOU SPEED along California where the treasure was hidden, but Route 98 through Imperial Valley while taking possession of it, they and approach Signal Mountain west were surprised by the Yumans. A of Calexico you wonder why Juan battle ensued in which the Cocopah Bautista de Anza called the moun- chief was killed. tain "El Cerro del Imposible," — With the Yumans in hot pursuit, "impossible" mountain. But if you the Cocopahs retreated toward Mount drive a mile or two toward the Mexi- Signal, carrying their fallen leader, can border and divest yourself of as well as the gold. On a cliff high modern trappings by stepping from up on the mountain, the chief was your car, you'll soon understand. buried and with him, the treasure. Jutting some 2000 feet into the sky So much for the legend, but gold and situated one third in the U.S. hunters who crossed the Yuha desert and two thirds in Mexico, Signal later found inspiration in it. Mountain combines beauty, power Today, many still seek treasures and romance. For years, for centuries, around Signal Mountain, but only a it has served as a beacon to travelers few are looking for gold. Rockhounds crossing the Yuha desert and, accord- find sandstone flowers and spikes in ing to an old Indian legend, it once the foothills. Photographers photo- provided a platform for Indian smoke graph desert wild flowers and strange signals. But this, the legend says, was patterns of dried-out clay. Indian pot- in ancient times when the desert was sherds, petrified wood and shells are submerged in water and the moun- found in Signal Wash, the latter evi- tain peak was an island in a gigantic dence of its seaside location long ago. sea. In their canoes, the Indians paddled to this mountain island to The silence in this great mountain make smoke-talk. What they said, no is one you can almost hear. Juan Bau- one knows. tista de Anza with his 34 men, 65 cattle and 140 saddle animals must Another Indian legend deals with have heard it when he lost the first the more recent past. Those were the round of his battle with Signal Moun- days when the Cocopah and Yuma tain back in 1774. tribes were mortal enemies. A rene- On Friday, February 13th, Anza gade Yuman, it is said, came to the and his party set out across the des- the Cocopah village and told of a ert. Led by one Yuma and four Ca- vast amount of gold which the Yu- juenche guides, they left the fertile mans had hidden near their home on maize, calabash and muskmelon fields the Colorado river. of the river area and followed a trail "I'll show you how you can get at along what is today called the Pare- the Yuma treasure," he told the dones river in Mexico. After camping young chief of the Cocopahs, and a at Arroyo del Carrizal where there raid was carefully planned. The Co- was fair pasture and water for the copahs, led by the renegade Yuman, animals, they continued the following reached the cache on the Colorado morning toward Signal Mountain. Then trouble developed, The Indians Sandstone spikes and flowers told Anza they were approaching the land of their enemies and all but two Cajuenche guides returned to the Colorado. Another few miles west and these two stopped at an arroyo and, pointing across, told Anza that "bad people" lived on the other side. "It's a long march," they said, "but if you follow the trail to the mountain, you can do it." Then they turned back. Anza rested for a while at the arroyo before continuing on toward >;• Signal Mountain. For a while he could see Signal Mountain through the blowing sand and then it ap- peared to recede. Miles passed under the soldiers' heavy heels, but the ter- rible mountain remained as elusive as ever. Anza suggested that half the men return to Yuma where the friendly Chief Palma would take care of them, but the padres objected, saying it was safer to travel in a large group. Anza, however, ordered half the pack loads left with a few soldiers at a well they stumbled onto. "As soon as we arrive at that mountain over yonder," he said, "we'll send for you and for the loads. It is there, at the foot of that cerro, that there is Amiel W. Whipple who passed by longitude between San Diego and the water in abundance. It is there that Mount Signal and, in 1849, reported mouth of the Gila." we can rest." that it "must serve as a beacon to His report, true as it may have travelers from the Colorado and may been, did not even begin to por- Once again the column advanced probably be found a convenient point tray Mount Signal as it really is, with on Signal Mountain. The sand grew from which to flash gunpowder for its adventure, strength and romance. deeper. First one, then another, and the determination of the difference in again another of the animals fell in /// its tracks and died. On February 17 Anza shook his fists at the mountain which he called Cerro del Imposible and admitted that he was beaten—at least this time. He began his retreat to Yuma, but even as more animals died on the trail, he had words of defiance and courage for his men. "We must not, and cannot, fail," Anza said. "£/ Cerro del Imposible can be beaten. In a few days, we'll try again." Ten days after leaving the Colorado camp, Anza and his men returned to Santa Olaya, but soon he assembled a smaller group and tried again. Circ- ling the sand dunes this trip, Anza advanced once more toward Mount Signal. This time, it provided a friendly beacon and before they reached its base, they spotted a gap- today known as Lower PassWhrough which they crossed in safety. On March 22, they arrived at the Mission San Gabriel near present-day Los An- geles. El Cerro del Imposible had been defeated! In the 1850s, several expeditions were sent out by the federal government to locate a railroad route to the Pacific. Among them was that of Lt. Remnants of old mines are in wash north of Signal Mountain.

April, 1965 / Desert Magazine / 21 Every Gardner expedition has one objective — adventure — with each member of the camp seeking his own. Here's a report on a recent trip to Arizona where one team of adventurers turned up clues to Num- mel's lost gold. Hovering Over Nummel's Gold

EDITOR, DESERT MAGAZINE

oN A TINY mesa 400 feet above the canyon floor, Jean Bethel and I forced our weight against the ground under the whirling blades of a helicopter. The faster the engine revved for take-off, the greater the wind pressure grew. At last Doug Allen shouted, "Don't forget to come back!" Fred Bowen laughed, waved, and piloted his plas- tic bubble out of sight. Doug Allen, cinematographer for Heller Fairchild Corporation, set up a tripod on the edge of the pre- cipice. "It'll take about half-an- hour," he speculated. The helicopter had deposited us above this spectac- ular view so Doug could take photos of an experimental Heller Fairchild aircraft on its test run while the helicopter flew back to camp to refuel. Almost immediately the Turbo- Porter swooped through the canyon, its 50-foot wing-spread casting out- si/ed shadows against the craggy mountains. Reversing its prop, it hovered at various levels around our mesa, sometimes so slowly we could

22 / Desert Magazine / April, 1965 see Erie Stanley Gardner inside taking photos of us through the window. Planes aren't supposed to hover, nor fly at 40 miles an hour barely 30 feet above ground. But the new Tur- bo-Porter does both. A cross between a helicopter and an airplane, it rep- resents a new generation of aircraft called STOL, meaning "short take-off and landing." It lands on a 30-foot runway and flies slower than any other plane in the sky, both feats ac- complished by the technique of reversing the prop. However, even though it flies low and slowly enough to favor recon- naisance, it doesn't replace the helicopter for missions such as ours. It will carry heavier loads and more The Turbo-Porter, an experimental aircraft that's a cross between a heli- passengers, and burns less fuel be- copter and a plane, hovers over camp.. Erie Stanley Gardner is about to cause it is able to cruise, but its wing- take-off in the helicopter parked on the ground. spread prohibits landing on tiny mesas barely 12-feet wide, or drop- ping into narrow washes where clues tago, hiked up the hill sheltering our look for, she let out an excited yelp to certain lost mines are found. And campsite and discovered a rich vein when our helicopter floated over a that was the object of our reconnai- of chalcedony roses. conspicuous quartz outcropping beside a palo verde tree. "Now we look sance in this great, ragged back- We of the helicopter contingent country of Arizona's Trigos—a lost for a pothole that would hold water," smiled patronizingly while the others she instructed, consulting her notes. gold-bearing ledge. made their reports, and then smug- ly announced our discovery. We'd "There otta be something here," At last Doug dismissed the Turbo- the pilot muttered, hovering the SL Porter and it disappeared into a found the clues to John Nummel's lost gold! 4 over an area about as empty as any scape of serrated peaks. Many pros- Easterner from Pennsylvania could pectors have struck bonanza while Jean Bethel, Erie Stanley Gard- ever hope to see. But he got into the awaiting the return of a stray burro. ner's executive secretary and his spirit of the thing fast when he was Tumbling rocks through my hands, model for Perry Mason's Delia Street, first to spy a shaft in a wash near a I wondered if tomorrow's prospectors is a pretty hot detective herself. shallow tinaja—or pothole, as Trigo would strike it rich awaiting the re- Having efficiently listed clues in her miners referred to these natural stone turn of a helicopter. One thing for notebook while Gardner (Uncle basins that held water after a storm. sure, none of the miners who had Erie to DESERT readers) gave us honeycombed the Trigo range below an advance briefing about what to Fred settled the helicopter onto a us had ever scaled the slick sides of the truncated cone upon which we sat. Soon the 'copter returned and we drifted toward camp, peering into volcanic caves which pocked the range and debating the nature of three mysterious circles in the desert-varnished mosaic below. These last aroused all sorts of speculation until a later ground examination proved them nothing more fantastic than maneuver marks left by gyrating burros who had scratched their backs in the rough sand. Back at camp, a multitude of ideas converged into a typical Gard- ner-camp wind tunnel. Uncle Erie, flying in the experimental Tur- bo-Porter with Sam Hicks, his ranch foreman, and Jack Pepper, had observed an interesting slash in the earth above the Clip Mine that de- served investigation. J. W. Black and Ricardo Castillo, traveling by land in Black's newly invented land-crawler, came upon a freak shaft sunk into a high canyon wall which they hoped to explore later. Camp cook Harry Deposited by a helicopter atop a 400-foot peak, Jean and Doug examine Murphy and his helper, David Hur- amber-colored calcite crystals cropping through the rocky terrain.

April, 1965 / Desert Magazine / 23 Massive ruins of Clip Mine lie below 80-foot shaft where Our camp (photo on opposite page) was along the jeep over $1 million in silver was mined from 1883 to 1887. trail in Clip Wash between the mine and the mill site.

Clip Mill Site to Cibolo 13.7 M.I.;,

flat spot and we jumped out to ex- The only thing to do was get back Erie had chartered the helicopter for amine outcrops of glistening quartz. to camp, make our announcement, two days—the Turbo-Porter came One thing that puzzled us was the and return with some of the men in along as a bonus because the manu- shaft. According to legend, John camp who knew what gold-bearing facturer, Heller Fairchild Co., want- Nummel, drinking from his canteen quartz looked like when they were ed to test it in rough country while in the shade of a palo verde tree, looking at it. But were we smug! At one of their helicopters was present chipped off a hunk of quartz that was least Jean, Fred and I were. Doug to provide photographic coverage. loaded with free gold, but he didn't Allen pretended skepticisim, since he So, with refueling and photograph- mine it. On the contrary, he couldn't hadn't attended the Gardner briefing ing cutting into our time, aerial re- even find the ledge again. So had to learn what we were looking for. connaisance had to be discerningly someone else located the ledge and As we expected, our news trigger- budgeted. It was decided that Erie, taken away the gold? ed a bomb under the entire camp. Sam and Ricardo would fly over be-

Erie Stanley Gardner and J. W. Black try out new rig we christened the Red Cloud. Built with a VW engine and individual wheel suspension, its passengers float over rough terrain while it climbs, crawls, and races over everything. It's the best desert "crawler" Black has invented to date. Gardner had ordered three before we broke camp.

24 / Desert Magazine / April, 1965 *••>• fore dark to appraise the promising Black collected ore specimens and following day. There was the morse! site and then, if it looked good, the found silver, but no gold. about an enterprising lady in 1888 helicopter would relay the others to who wrote an article for the Atlantic it on the following day. Monthly about the love life of pre- Sometime during the afternoon historic Indians . . . not much we Sam had hung a loin of beef on a could do with that. And then there spit over the fire and now we who was a remarkable observation found remained in camp drew up our chairs in the diary of Lt. Thomas Sweeney, to watch succulent juices drizzle down stationed at Fort Yuma in 1850, that its crisp sides. Smoke carried the concerned a Yuma Indian maiden fragrance straight to our stomachs with a ring in her nose who turned and when Harry sliced a smidgen whiter and whiter as Lt. Sweeney for tasting, we all got in the act. stayed longer and longer. He called There's nothing like the smell and her Colorado Rose. But the great crackle of smoldering coals in a quiet romance of the Trigos isn't to be setting of sand, mesquite and jagged found in frivolous courtships. No, mountains. this was a world of men . . . hard Soon the whir of the helicopter men with ambitious dreams. A announced its return to camp. Then world of thirsty cattle trampling came a practical appraisal of our rough trails from Cibola to Yuma. short-lived bonanza. A land of millworkers, freighters,

Ricardo explored old mine shafts Uncle Erie soaks up sunshine while and found hand-forged square nails lie tells the story of Nummel's lost and soldered cans circa 1800. gold. After dinner Sam threw a great log on the lire and each member of the camp sank into his own private revelry. I remember Erie saying he used to think chairs in camp were sissy, until he camped with some hunters in Wyoming and learned that fireside conversations were both more relaxed and more revealing when the body was comfortable enough to forget itself. For my part, I stretched on a (liaise in the firelight and let my sub- conscious put together bits of information I'd collected prior to the trip, hoping something irrelevant might contribute to our exploration on the

"In the first place, it's in the stagedrivers, stablekeepers, store- wrong place," Erie said, pointing out keepers, bartenders. A land of miners. that John \ummel was following an That was the big thing—the raison old Indian trail along the most dir- d 'etre for the big dream. ect route between Red Cloud Mine Miners came from everywhere. north of Yuma to La Fortuna Mine They called them ten-day men be- southeast of Yuma. When he found cause most of them drifted from one his gold ledge, he had already crossed district to another, staying that many Yuma Wash. The site Jean and I days. They mined silver, lead, zinc were so excited about was in Arras- . . . over a million dollars of silver ire Wash, several miles short of the from the Clip Mine alone. And many direct route Nummel would have of them were adventure-seeking chosen and, also, several miles on the Europeans lured by German transla- wrong side of Yuma Wash. tions of Bret Harte novels. During In the meantime, Doug Allen was its heyday, the colorful author pros- becoming increasingly interested in pected Silver district himself. John Xummel's ledge. Uncle Erie Towns and postoffices sprung up had a March '56 DESERT which everywhere, so shortlived no one has contained the original story, so Doug heard of them since. There was Pa- borrowed it, along with a topo map, Jack and Sam used a metal detector cific: City, a stage stop on the Yuma- and quietly escaped into a huddle to locate buried remains of a town- Ehrenberg run with a postoffice es- with himself. We didn't know until site named Clip about a mile above lablished in 1880. And there was Later that he had graduated from the old mill site. Nothing remains of Silent with its post office, a few miles Stanford University as a geographer the town, but a cemetery with 18 north. And Norton Landing on the and was an expert in tracing ancient graves indicates a fairly large popu- Colorado where ore wagons from the Indian paths. lation for the short-lived town. Red Cloud Mine, freighters and

26 / Desert Magazine / April, 1965 steamboats stopped on their travels. X marks the spot what dues to ATummci's gold are euioteiit. Its postmaster was one of the Ger- mans who came to this fantastic land —Mr. Jacob Dettlebach. Harder than silver to come by, though, was water. As late as 1925 a pipe-line was laid from a shallow well near Norton's Landing to carry water 20 rugged miles to a new 100- ton cyanide mill erected at Clip Mine. Supplies were hauled from Yuma via Picacho, California, and ferried across the river to Norton's Landing. But the operation wasn't successful. Even the ferry capsized once with 200 pounds of cased cyanide. More lucrative was the earlier 1883 operation with a 10-stamp mill at the mouth of Clip Wash where ore, hauled eight miles by wagon from natural rock tank on the trail; a tank tance between the two points Num- the Clip Mine, was milled and trans- so large it would hold water for six mel traversed—from Red Cloud Mine ported by boat down to the Gulf of months after a storm. While taking to La Fortuna Mine some 40 miles California and thence to the Selby this brief rest he chipped off a hunk southeast. Smelter in San Francisco. of dirty yellow quartz from a ledge By this time, Nummel had left "There must be some remnant of in the side of the wash where he sat the Trigo range and was advancing the old town down there," Erie re- —and the dirty yellow quartz con- into the Chocolate Mountains, a low marked, although from the plane he'd tained pure yellow gold. Then, after 25-mile long range that lies between only been able to locate foundations walking about another mile, he the Trigo and Castle Dome Moun- of the mill. So the forgotten site of a strayed from the trail some 200 yards tains. Fred Bowen landed the heli- town named Clip was added to our to fill his canteen from the pothole. copter on a level spot and we contin- agenda of things to find. Floating low over the terrain, as ued our search afoot. This region is Then the smoke curled higher and we were, old trails were easy to de- more level than that we'd left and the fire burned lower. One by one we tect. Doug suggested we look closely there are no roads into it. However a disappeared into the night. My tepee somewhat short of three miles up 4-wheel drive vehicle could probably was pitched beside rocky Clip Wash Yuma Wash, as hikers usually over- come close to where we were by where wagons had rumbled and feet estimate mileage. He was right. A leaving the Yuma Wash road at the stumbled over a century ago. Now clear, firm trail led us as directly as turn of Section 16 of the USGS topo the road was barely passable with a possible over the rough terrain in the map No. N33OO-W11430/15 of Pica- 4-wheel drive. very direction Doug had chartered acho, Ariz.-Calif, and then driving A coyote yipped. An owl hooted. on the topo map as the shortest dis- (Continued on Page 40) A gray fox darted beyond my light. But no more did miners curse, pray, nor rub their calloused hands in the silvery bowels of the Trigos. No, no more.

Doug Allen indicated a spot he'd circled on the topo map and the men crowded around to pass judgment. "That's your project," Erie said. "Go to it!" Jean, Doug and I hesitated long enough to pay our respects to Harry Murphy's bronze-tinted sour dough pancakes and then took off, determined to compensate for our fiasco of the preceding day. This time we had plotted a definite route. According to John Num- mel's story, he crossed Yuma Wash about three miles above the Colorado River on a foot trail shorter than, but roughly parallel to, the wagon trail from the Red Cloud Mine. Then, after a few more miles of walking he sat in the shade of a palo verde and took a drink from his nearly empty gallon canteen, knowing To cover as much country as possible in the shortest time, Gardner checks full well he could refill it from a out each team of explorers on a topo map.

April, 1965 / Desert Magazine / 27 COME TOTHE DIG BY JULIA CRAW

YOU ENJOY getting dirty Dfor

28 / Desert Magazine / April, 1965 paper that one was being sponsored by a local museum. Because we have long been interested in Indian artifacts, history and lore, we signed up immediately, even though we were not given a location map until a few days prior to leaving. This pre- caution is taken by all archaeological expeditions to protect sites from pre- mature vandalism . . . when we learned that the site was to be a lime- stone cave on a lakeshore in the heart of the eastern Sierras, we felt extraordinarily fortunate. What better place is there for a summer vacation! Upon arriving at the dig a few days later, we found preliminary sur- vey work had been done and the first pits were being opened. The camp- ground was a sagebrush flat above the lake, and we were told to choose our own site among other tents, • campers, trailers and bedrolls. After we had done this, we were intro- duced to the "dig" and made welcome by friendly jibes at our clean 'Wo thanks, I gave it up!" clothing. Soon we learned that dirt and dig are synonymous—dirt is both fished, visited local points of inter- it was also a serious contribution to the priceless potential and the occu- est, or hunted rocks and arrowheads historical research and this realiza- pational hazard of the dig. for our own collections. At dark a tion was always a part of our light- community campfire united us in a hearted banter. It's a good feeling to A professional archaeologist, direct- never-to-be-forgotten bond while we know you are doing something sig- ed the pattern, placement, and depth joined in scientific discussions or nificant to increase mankind's know- of pits and instructed us in the use just plain tall tales. ledge of man and involved in a sti- of tools and working methods. Every- If it sounds like fun—it was! But mulating, active vacation as well. /// thing else was done by volunteers, some of whom had studied or parti- cipated in enough digs to qualify as Uncover the secrets of the experts. West's romantic history... Our fellow vacation-laborers came gem-minerals and cultural from everywhere and from every artifacts of past ages lie walk of life. Mothers, teachers, doctors, ranchers, salesmen, artists, re- hidden in these legendary tired couples, students—they all dug areas of lost mines and in the dirt, joked and talked with a camaraderie that made each hot, buried treasure... tedious, dirty job a joy. They came and went as their schedules permit- Follow the old trails of the Spaniards, Padres, Indians and Prospectors with ted; some only for a day or an afternoon, others for a week or a week end, a few for the full three weeks GOLDAK METAL/MINERAL LOCATORS term of the dig. model 520- B It was a happy crew. As one member remarked, "Our faces may be The "CHAMPION" black, but our hearts are light." The The lightest and most sensitive H metal/mineral locator of its digger who let a point get past him type ever developed, the "Champion" instantly detects to the sorters (points are supposed to buried metal objects, gold, silver be spied and recorded in situ) was and minerals to a depth of due for some good-natured bantering. eight feetl Fully transistorized, yet of simple, Practical jokes, pranks and gossip en- easy-to-operate design, the "Champion" is equipped with a livened each day. Coffee breaks could tunable detection head for maximum be called for anything from an edu- sensitivity over mineralized ground, as well as a special, curved, folding cational demonstration on charcoal aluminum handle for lighter weight, ease of storage and balanced, preservation to a watermelon. And one-hand operation. - a wild jubilee echoed through the $127.50 hills in the wake of each worker's Write or phone today "find." for FREE Literature! In early afternoon the dig closed THE GOLDAK COMPANY, INC. for the day and, after clean-up, we Dept. DD-3, 1544 Glenoaks Blvd., Glendale, Calif. CH

April, 1965 / Desert Magazine / 29 Kent Frost's New Indian-Frontier Village Canyonland Tours See the superb wilderness scenery in the nation's newest CANYONLANDS NATIONAL PARK For additional information write: KENT OR FERN FROST 295 Blue Mt. Drive Monticello, Utah Phone 587-2787

"Introducing Sand Guard"

Protects windshields and like surfaces against sand, dirt, and grit. A must for every Dssert traveler. Send for a free descriptive by Margaret Romer how good were "the good old days"— brochure showing the many uses of sand especially in freezing winter weather! guard to: Scattered here and there everywhere 'REAMS DO COME true! Such General Mail Order are brightly colored totem poles. Mr. a materialization is the Indian-Fron- Callahan is 1/16 Mohawk Indian, Company tier Village 40 miles north of Holly- which contributes to his intense in- P. O. 65946 wood. It has recently been brought terest in Indians and their tribal LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA 90065 forth, not for profit, but to fulfill customs. He is also a descendant of the life-long dream of its creator, John C. Calhoun, the renowned Robert E. Callahan. It is a work of statesman and vice-president under DESERT BIRDS love to be shared with all who wish Andrew Jackson. On hand-decorated tiles to walk into the past, to see, to en- It must not be imagined that Mr. of native clay. Standing (B2) and Running (B3) joy, and to learn. Everybody loves Callahan has been a dreamer all his Roadrunners, Quail Cocks the place. Children love it, and (B4) and pairs (B5), life. Recently retired from the busi- Great-Horned Owls (B6), learn. Old folks love it, and remi- ness world, he has been variously a Elf Owls (B7), Cactus Wrens (B8), and Doves nisce. run-away boy, a hobo, a dare-devil (B9). Corked for trivets, also fixed to be hung. Located in Mint Canyon, near Vas- stunt man, an author, an actor, a Approximately 6" square. quez Rocks where the notorius ban- business man and the producer of 52 54 EACH includes tax shipping and insurance dit, Tiburcio Vasquez, harassed documentary educational films on the stagecoaches for 20 years (DESERT life and customs of as many Indian GLOBAL GIFTS Dec. '64) , visitors can now rest secure- tribes. Box 96 ly in a verdant ravine where Vas- Claypool, Arizona For many years, Mr. Callahan quez watered and hid his horses. operated a five-acre Los Angeles mo- Another short walk leads to a spring tel and trailer park, where he accu- TRIANGLE TOUR that supplies an old green water tank mulated a collection of Indian and MONUMENT VALLEY built by the Indians and is still fre- pioneer relics and worked constantly RAINBOW NATURAL BRIDGE quented by deer and bobcats that toward the materialization of his NAVAJO MOUNTAIN MULEY POINT come down the mountain slope in THE GREAT GOOSENECKS LAKE POWELL the early morn. FLY IT — JEEP IT — BOAT IT The Village doesn't stop with local ALL 3 WAYS IN 3 DAYS ON THIS history; it features that of our en- COMFORTABLE COMBINED TOUR tire West. Near the creepy blackness CHOICE OF STARTING DATES of an abandoned gold mine, there's AND PLACES Write for Brochure a replica of an old miner's hut, an early jail, and an outlaw's hideout. Glen Canyon Boating Then there's a white country church WHITE CANYON, UTAH such as dotted our country from Bos- ton to Los Angeles a century ago. Inside is a conventional altar and Order a genuine old pews cut down from ones FREE that came around the Horn in a sail- Desert-Southwest Book Catalog ing vessel and were used in an early More than 75 Southwestern titles. His- Los Angeles church. tory, lost mines, Indian lore, adventure, Not far from the church is a little gunmen, nature subjects, art of the area, guide books, travel, ghost towns, desert red school house with blackboard and legends. scarred desks. The only things miss- For your free Desert-Southwest Book ing here are blonde pigtails to be Catalog, send your name and address to: dipped into inkwells by freckle-faced boys. Other reminders of the past in- Desert-Southwest Book Store clude a "Chic' Sayles" outhouse, P.O. Box 757 Palm Desert, California which makes you skeptical about

30 / Desert Magazine / April, 1965 dream—the present Indian-Frontier Village. After a long search, he loca- Comes with ted a 12-acre tract of land in Mint natural gold nugget NOW! THE NEW Canyon and started his Village, using that it will detect. his famed collection of relics as a GOLD-MASTER nucleus. 5% discount for cash MODEL S63 An outstanding exhibit is his Hopi The new GOLD-MASTER Mineral, kiva—one of the only two kivas in Metal and Treasure finder can detect small Gold and Silver nuggets, Rings, Coins, existence outside of Indian reserva- Mineral float, Veins and Treasures. NO EAR- tions. Both are here in the Village. PHONES. A powerful speaker is used. Comes with two loops, one for small nuRgets and one Kivas are Indian Prayer Houses, but for treasures and veins. SIMPLE TO OPERATE. only men are permitted inside. Comes with samples, instructions and fresh batteries. There they go to hold religious cere- COMPLETE, ONLY $169.50 monies and commune with the Holy $29.50 down, Balance at $10.57 per month Spirit. There they pray for rain, or - FREE LITERATURE - WHITE'S for the healing of a sick child, or Detects: Gold, Silver, Copper, Coins, ELECTRONICS Rings, Treasure, Metals and other 1011 Pleasant Valley Rd., Dept. DM, for whatever is their immediate need. Mineral Deposits. GUARANTEED! Sweet Home, Oregon Ceremonies are said to be truly beautiful and deeply impressive. Here in the Village, women may enter the kiva as well as men. But all who M D C CAS IN 5 COWBOY BOOTS enter remember it as a sacred place— the church of the Pueblo village. jfanci/ Wesiefm Other tribes are also represented. Located in"The Center", long a Palm Springs landmark (across from the Desert Inn), the Grone's There's a Mohawk wigwam of 1670, MOCCASIN SHOP offers over 100 choices for foot comfort. Moccasins with beautiful bead work, a Sioux tepee of the turn of the cen- velvety-soft imported deerskin, rugged rawhide, durable full-grain cowhide—Some for riding, tury; a Seminole chichee of the same some for flying, all for just plain walking comfort. Look for us on your next desert trip. period; a Cherokee lodge; a Laguna WRITE FOR FREE CATALOG pueblo; a Navajo hogan, and many others. MOCCASIN SHOP Another unique exhibit is Good 174 NORTH PALM CANYON DRIVE Luck Hall, decorated with over PALM SPRINGS, CALIFORNIA PHONE 325-6425 10,000 horse shoes collected from Western ranches. Each shoe was ac- Be sure to mention DESERT when you patronize our advertisers. tually worn by a faithful horse or mule that contributed his humble bit to the development of our great land. Here are 140 wagon and buggy wheels that actually rolled westward, MIGHTY MIDAS each wheel bearing a descriptive tag. Visitors delight in finding ones from «*• * (Pat. applied for) "*> KJ their own home states. Among them FABULOUS NEW GOLD CONCENTRATOR is one from the buggy which carried Helen Hunt Jackson across Southern • HIGH EFFICIENCY—Recover ALL the colors California when she gathered mater- from any dry sand ial for her immortal novel Ramona. • HIGH CAPACITY—Up to three tons per hour In the main building's museum hall is a wooden cradle that rocked • TRULY PORTABLE—Weighs only 42 lbs. Buffalo Bill (William Cody) when • ONE MINUTE SET-UP—Easy operation he was babe; and another slept in by notorious Jesse James. And there • EVERYTHING stands the old pedal organ on which MINIATURIZED Carrie Jacobs Bond composed "I Love You Truly" and "The End of INCLUDING THE PRICE a Perfect Day." Mrs. Bond was a $349.50 personal friend of Mr. Callahan. MONEY-BACK GUARANTEE! It has been necessary to charge a Mix the included sample of placer gold with dry sand and run thru nominal admission fee to cover main- machine. ALL colors must be recovered or return the machine, undam- tenance costs, but once inside you may stay as long as you like and wander aged, within 10 days, for refund. KEEP THE GOLD! at will. In sharing his knowledge SEND THIS COUPON TODAY! and treasures with the public, Mr. A. Enclosed is $349.50 + tax*. Please ship MIGHTY MIDAS freight Prepaid. • Callahan has made a major contri- OR bution to American history and to Please ship MIGHTY MIDAS C.O.D. I will pay $349.50 + tax * and freight. • the culture of Southern California. B. Please send complete literature, without obligation. Q Everyone who leaves the Village does *ln California 4% Sales tax so with a deeper appreciation for NAME:_ modern advantages, comforts and conveniences, and a hearty respect for ADDRESS:- those who preceded us here. /// AQUAPPLIANCES, INC. 16242 PINEVIEW RD. SAUGUS, CALIF.

April, 1965 / Desert Magazine / 31 Desert Justice

I OW THAT the sun had set, Eve Sharon appreciated for the first time the immensity of the desert and the loneliness of her own position. Far in the west, there was still a streak of light which illuminated the rim of the mountains. The base of that mountain range was ominously black. The tent in which Eve Sharon was to spend the night was perched on the side of another mountain slope. Between the mountains in the west and the place where the tent was pitched, there was now only a great black pool of mysterious darkness. Overhead the stars began to peer down on the lonely girl. The tent itself was perched at a crazy angle. Any desert person seeing the tent would have wondered why it had been placed there on such slanting ground. The answer was simple. In the center of the ground covered by that tent, that very afternoon, Dudley Sharon—Eve's uncle—had uncovered a vein

>y ERLE STANLEY GARDNER Although our usual editorial policy precludes fiction, we are adding extra pages to the next few issues to introduce a desert character newly created by famous mystery writer Erie Stanley Gardner. This new character, a desert wanderer known as The Roadrunner, is destined to become as popular with desert dwellers as another Gardner character. Perry Mason, is to mystery lovers all over the world. Reflecting Gardner's love and knowledge of desert country, we believe the fictional Roadrunner's adventures belong on our pages and we are proud to have been able to acquire first publication rights to bring this two-part serial to DESERT readers. of quartz in which the gold was so thick that it was In the distance, she was positive she could hear impossible to break off even a sample of the rock a man's voice calling faintly. without the gold enmeshed in the quartz forming wires Eve put on her outer garments, her desert boots, of solid yellow metal as the two pieces of rock were and went back to the front of the tent to listen. separated. There were no sounds now. No need to have an assay of any such ore as Then, suddenly and quite distinctly, Eve heard that. It was fabulously rich and the vein certainly a man calling for help. seemed to be wide enough. The voice was down in the pool of darkness But this quartz outcropping, which had some- below the tent. how escaped being uncovered over the centuries, was Eve called out, "What's the trouble?"—and her in a district where there had been a lot of mining around voice, quavering with nervousness, seemed to be the turn of the century when wages were such that it swallowed up by the vast silence. was profitable to mine gold ore which would be impossible to process today. There were a half dozen There was no direct answer but, after a moment, old mines in the vicinity. the cry for help was repeated again—this time, nearer. Eve listened. Eve's uncle hadn't known what to do. Quite apparently, some man was coming closer He didn't dare to locate the outcropping as a to her and calling for help. And then, suddenly, the claim for fear that he would find that he was in the voice screamed, "I'm falling!" Then all was silent. middle of some claim which had already been located With a start of fear, Eve recollected the open and on which assessment work had been done. shaft in the vicinity, relics of bygone mining activities— In such a case, Dudley Sharon would, of course, shafts which dropped perpendicularly into the earth be making a gratuitous present of his discovery to for unknown distances. some person who had simply kept a location alive on That afternoon, she had dropped little pebbles the old claims which had apparently been worked down one of these shafts, listening for several seconds out many years before. until the stones struck the bottom. So, above all, Dudley Sharon needed to know Had someone been stumbling toward her tent, the status of the land on which his rich strike had calling for help and then fallen down one of these been located. shafts? Eve grabbed up a small flashlight which she He could think of only one way to do that. kept in her purse (her uncle had taken the big flash- He had carefully covered up the outcropping light) and hurried down the steep slope toward the which was about two feet below the surface of the nearest of the open shafts. ground, had pitched the tent over the place, left his The flashlight was a pocket type which was re- niece in charge; and then Dudley, armed with a sketch chargeable by plugging it into an electric socket, but map : ho wing ths location of the various landmarks it had been some time since she had recharged the and old mining claims, had taken the car and started battery and now the light was ominously faint—serv- for the county seat. ing only to show the ground a few feet ahead, just He had left his only weapon, a .22-revolver, with far enough to keep her from falling into one of these Eve Sharon—and Eve had been instructed not to leave open shafts. the site of the gold discovery under any circumstances, And then, Eve heard in the distance a peculiar but to remain in physical possession until his return, moaning. which would be some tims the next day. Using the flashlight, she groped her way toward the sound. At times, it was faint; at times, stronger. Night settled over the silent desert. Stars blazed. T As she moved toward the noise, she suddenly recoiled n th3 distance, a coyote tuned up a mournful dirge. as an open shaft yawned in front of her. Eve lit the gasoline lantern in the tent, but after From the depths of this shaft, a human voice was half an hour the light seemed to make the tent too groaning and muttering incoherent words — words conspicuous so Eve turned it out. As it hissed into which sounded as though there was bubbling blood silence, the desert seemed to move in. on the lips of the man who had uttered them. She couldn't sleep at first. Then she did fall "Who are you? Are you hurt? Can I help?" Eve asleep, only to waken after a restless hour. asked. After another hour, there was a peculiar sound. There was no answer save a continuation of the At first, she thought this sound might be a distant incoherent words, the groaning and, then, a dead radio. silence. Eve lay flat on the ground, called down into Eve came bolt upright out of her sleeping bag, the dark well of silence. There was no answer. went to the front of the tent, opened the flap, and Then suddenly, behind Eve, the whole side of listened. the mountain was lit with a burst of flame.

April, 1965 / Desert Magazine / 33 Eve's horrified eyes looked back to see that the "If he's fallon in thoTo, there ain't no us© trying place where her tent had been was now an inferno to get him out with any equipment we've got," the cf flame. man said. "But if you're sure somebody fell in there, She turned and ran blindly up the side of the you can telephone the sheriff when you get to where slope, only to suddenly find herself brought to a halt you're going. as she heard the throaty growl of a dog and a man's "I'll take my flashlight and escort you as far as voice saying, "That's far enough. What do you want?" the first mining road so you won't be falling down any "My tent," Eve said, "my sleeping bag, my purse, shafts yourself. It's dangerous walking around here in everything." the dark. You'll fall to your death." "Was that your tent?" the man asked. "But that's what happened to this man I'm tell- "Yes." ing you about," Eve said. "I heard him scream and then I heard sounds of moaning and then silence." "What do you mean trying to jump our claim?" "Know what shaft it was?" the man asked. "I'm not claim jumping," Eve said. "I was . . . I was camped here. Who are you?" "Not now. When I saw my tent burning, I came running toward it ... and now, I've lost the shaft. I "We own this claim," the man said. "And we can find it if you'll use your flashlight. Mine's burnt don't aim to have any trespassers on it. You must have out." left a fire in the stove and your tent burned up." "Nothing doing," the man said. "If anyone fell "The fire was down to embers," Eve said, "so it down any of these shafts, it's too late to do anything for was perfectly safe. You burned up my tent." him. I'll take you to the road if you want to start now. "Your tent just caught fire from carelessness," That's all I'll do. Make up your mind." the man's voice said. "Now, you keep your distance. There was an air of finality about the man's This dog gets pretty vicious. If I turn him loose, he'd manner, and, sick at heart, Eve turned away from the chase you plumb out of the country." mountain and the vicious teeth of the snarling dog. "But what am I going to do?" Eve asked. "I have "All right," she surrendered. no sleeping bag, no place to stay. I ... I don't believe The man called George used his flashlight to you have a claim located here anyway." take her back to the rutted road which in some past "Show you the location monument and the loca- generation had serviced these mines. It was rough tion notice, if you want," the man said, coming out and washed-out in places by desert cloudbursts, but from behind a rock which had sheltered him so that at least there were no yawning mine shafts along Eve could see him silhouetted against the glowing this road. embers of all that remained of her worldly posses- "All right," the man said. "You're on your own sions. "You stay right there. I'm going to get my now. Follow this road a couple of miles and you'll partner down here and we'll talk it over. We don't come to the main road to town. Be careful not to get aim to be rough, but we sure ain't going to have some off the road. Goodbye." slick dame use a lot of sex appeal to jump our claim." He turned and left her in darkness. The man turned, raised his voice, yelled, "Hello, George!" It took Eve's eyes a few minutes to get accus- tomed to the starlight. Then she started a cautious pro- Another masculine voice answered from farther gress, straining her eyes to see the very faint outline up the hillside. of the rutted road. "Come on down here a minute," the first man Suddenly a man's voice, drawling and friendly, said, and himself started climbing to meet his partner came out of the darkness. "You trying to go some- halfway. place, Miss?" The two men held a low-voiced conference, then Eve's taut nerves caused her to jump as though the man with the dog came back and said to Eve she had trod on a rattlesnake. She gave a half-scream Sharon, "We don't aim to be unneighborly like, but before getting enough self-control to ask, "Who . . . we're not going to have you on our claim." who are you?" "But I can't just sit out here all night," Eve said. "Name's LeClaire," the man said, with a chuckle. "Well, we're not going to abandon our claim "Don't ask my nationality. I'm a composite. And there to drive you anywhere. ain't no call for you to be afraid. "We went into town for supplies this afternoon "First name is Jon, spelled J-O-N. Some folks and, evidently, you must have jumped our claim while call me the Roadrunner." we were getting bacon and frijoles. Again the man chuckled. "I know it seems rough to you, but the road that "What—what are you doing out here? And what you'll find just around the side of that mountain runs do you want?" Eve asked. down here two or three miles to a road that will take you to town. It's about fifteen to twenty miles to town, "Been sort of keeping an eye on you," the voice but there's a cabin on that road about six miles down, explained. "I like your spunk. If you want to walk and a fellow lives there. He'll take you into town if down the road a piece with me, I've got some trans- you pay him. portation parked a half mile away and I can take you in to where you can phone the sheriff." "That's the best we can offer." Eve said, "There's a man in that shaft down "But what are you doing here? How did you hap- the hill. I heard him scream and fall in, and—and pen to know anything about me?" then I heard him moaning." "I get around on the desert," the man said. "I

34 / Desert Magazine / April, 1965 ]&e ii. Soil oi soak it up, I guess. I was lying in for rabbit or quail.— And it's silent. You can use it my sleeping bag when I saw your tent go up in smoke. without letting everybody in the country know that I says to myself, 'Jon, that fire is sort of gasoliney-like!' you're out getting your breakfast. So I decided to investigate. "If those folks had turned that dog loose on you, "I wasn't too far behind you when the two men Ma'am, it would have been just too bad for the dog, with the dog warned you off.—I didn't know just how and might have been too bad for the folks. I had a far you were going, but I've been following along broadhead arrow on the string, and the minute that a ways behind ever since, just keeping an eye on you." dog made a lunge at you he'd have had an arrow "I didn't hear you." through his chest.—Now, you want to go where you can telephone the sheriff. If you'll just walk about a "I wear heavy moccasins," Le Claire said. "Feet half mile farther, we'll come to my desert-going con- get toughened up after a while and you can just glide traption — there ain't any headlights on it and, to be along over the desert. I didn't aim to let that guy safe, we're going to have to wait for the moon to come get his flashlight on me. I sort of kept off to one side." up; but the moon will be up in an hour—not much of "Well, I'd ... I'd like to have a look at you." a moon because she's pretty much on the wane, but it'll be enough moon to show us the road." "Sure thing," the man said. "Stoop down and you can see me silhouetted against the stars." "Why don't you have headlights on your—what you call your contraption?" She stooped, heard a faint stir of motion, then a man's figure was silhouetted against the light of the "I don't believe in them. I settle down after dark star-studded sky—a tall man who moved with easy and stay put. —Of course, we could feel our way over grace. the desert without the moon, but it'd be dangerous." At first, Eve didn't realize what was over his Eve found herself liking this man. There was a sh'oulder, then she recognized it as a quiver of feath- genuine, raw-hided sincerity about him, a drawling ered arrows ,and the man was holding a long bow good nature in his voice which made her accept him; in his left hand. and there was, of course, the knowledge that, really, she had no choice. "What in the world . . .?" Eve asked. "Let's go," she said. LeClaire chuckled. "Bow and arrow. Probably seems sort of inadequate to you, if you've been accus- The man took her arm. "I've got so I see in the tomed to pistols and rifles; but believe you me, the dark like a cat.—Well, perhaps not that good, but bow and arrow is about the best weapon a man can pretty good. You just let me take your arm, and we'll get if he wants to defend himself after dark, and it's be where we're going in no time at all." a mighty good weapon to get game, if he's looking Strong, muscular fingers touched Eve's arm at