The village of Piesport’s famous Goldtröpfchen rises steeply above the banks of the Mosel. june 2011

GUIDE

2 germany 34 south africa 13 france 38 California 16 greece 50 oregon 20 italy 54 spirits 27 Chile 56 beer Photo © Nigel Blythe 33 New zealand BUYING WineMag.com | 1 BUYING I GUIDE

Germany DOUBLE DOWN ON THE 2009 y all accounts, Germany’s 2010 was Elsewhere in this month’s Buying Guide, our one of the smallest in recent history. With reviewers report on the of Southern Italy, Bdemand for on the rise, prices for where almost anything goes, from the sturdy, age- the 2010s are sure to move up, making this a worthy Aglianico-based reds of Taurasi to deli- good time to stock up on the 2009s, which are cate vini dei pesci, perfect alongside springtime dishes of salmon or grouper. Many of the Greek currently on the market. The 2009 Germany vin- wines reviewed by Executive Editor Susan Venge 2008 Family Reserve Cabernet tage was a good one, with fine wines available in a Sauvignon (Oakville); $125. Kostrzewa fall into similar categories: rustic reds 99 An absolute and triumph. Just superb, showcasing the best of multitude of styles, ranging from light-bodied, to accompany lamb and crisp, lemony whites off-dry kabinetts to sweet, medium-bodied Oakville. Perfect tannins, as pure as velvet and sweet, meant to partner fish. and perfect , too, with beautifully applied char and spätleses and rich, sweet ausleses. Some of the California wines continue to dominate U.S. wood spice. That the oak is 100% new is in keeping dry wines are outstanding as well. consumption, and so we’ve also included a hefty with the ’s volumetrics. The wine’s flavors are a This issue’s coverage focuses on from section on wines from the Golden State. There profound, heady expression of blackberries, blueber- the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer regions, now mostly are names you know, but also some names you ries, cassis and dark, barely sweetened chocolate. Just referred to as the Mosel for marketing purposes. might not, as our intrepid reviewers continue to spectacular, a real achievement by any world class stan- dard. Production was a scant 275 cases. —S.H. The Mosel is best known of the three, home to unearth new producers. And don’t discount Ore- several of Germany’s most famous wine villages, gon, which continues to be the source for some of this country’s most balanced Pinot Noirs. such as Bernkastel, Erden, Graach, Piesport and South of the equator, this month’s coverage Wehlen. These villages’ top vineyard sites are looks at recent releases from New Zealand, South slightly warmer than those in the Saar and Ruwer, Africa and Chile, with top Cabernets from Maipo yielding wines that are just that little bit richer to accompany Contributing Editor Michael and riper in style. In contrast, wines from the Schachner’s regional feature (“Maipo: Chile’s Saar and Ruwer tend to have stronger backbones Cradle of ,” pages 56–62). of acidity and bright citrus notes. Cheers! —JOE CZERWINSKI

impression is one of richness without excessive weight Dolce 2006 Late Harvest Sémillon-Sauvi- RIESLING AUSLESE rather than sugary sweetness. Imported by Valckenberg 98 gnon Blanc (Napa Valley); $85. With this International, Inc. Cellar Selection. —J.C. wine, Dolce cements its status as California’s most con- Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) sistently great . This year’s blend is 80% 92 2009 Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Auslese Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2009 Sémillon and 20% , and the grapes (Mosel); $41. Despite this wine’s intense richness and 91 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese were infected with the botrytis, resulting in the fantastic ample residual sugar, it is so well balanced that it does- (Mosel); $29. So lush and rich, almost to the point of sweetness. Devastating in apricot, orange, pear, honey, n’t come across as being particularly sweet. Hints of being over the top, this is a hugely tropical Riesling, vanilla and créme brûlée flavors, in an unctuous, vis- flint or crushed stone amplify the purity of the fresh with waves of cascading fruit. Yet there’s also a sugges- cous texture, with wonderfully clean acidity, it’s cer- apple and peach fruit and linger elegantly on the finish tion of slaty minerality and even a tinge of citrus pith tainly one of the greatest sweet California wines in of this full-bodied auslese. Drink now–2025, possibly reining things in on the finish. Drink it now as a dessert memory. —S.H. beyond. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. unto itself, or age it for a decade or more before trying it with more savory dishes. Imported by Miller Squared Peter Nicolay 2009 Bernkasteler Badstube Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. 92 Riesling Auslese (Mosel); $35. Fairly priced for an auslese of this quality, Nicolay’s 2009 from the Johann Falkenburg 2009 Bernkasteler Bernkasteler Badstube is lean yet luscious, with a wiry 88 Schlossberg Riesling Auslese (Mosel); $13. frame of taut citrus upon which hang riper notes of ripe From one of Bernkastel’s least known , this is peaches and apricots. The finish is long and vibrant, a good buy in sweet Riesling, balancing sweet apple fla- echoing with pure fruity deliciousness. Imported by vors against crisp, lime-like notes. Sweet yet refresh- Miller Squared Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. ing, a good weeknight partner to Chinese or Thai carryout. Imported by Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. Hall 2007 Exzellenz Sacrashe Vineyard Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2009 —J.C. 96 (Rutherford); $165. Expensive, 91 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Auslese yes, but this is a very great Cabernet, and the Sacrashe (Mosel); $84. The Thanisch wines from the Doctor Vineyard repeatedly proves itself as one of the best in vineyard rarely stand out in our magazine’s blind tast- RIESLING SPÄTLESE Rutherford, if not Napa Valley itself. The 100% Caber- ings, making their value proposition questionable. That net, which is a limited production barrel selection of said, this is a finely elegant wine, with floral details on Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2009 Graacher only 420 cases, is so delicious in blackberry jam, choco- the nose and enduring stony notes on the finish that 92 Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); late, olive and cedar flavors, it’s hard to not drain the mark it as something special. At only 7.5% abv, you’d $25. The three Himmelreich ’09 spätleses tasted were bottle now. But it also shows fabulously rich tannins expect an intensely sweet wine, but the sugars are that suggest aging. May not be one for the long haul, amply buffered by acids and minerality, so the overall Continued on page 10 but certainly great over the next six years. —S.H.

2|WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 Donelan 2009 Kobler Family Vineyard Macauley 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Domaine Serene 2007 Evenstad Reserve 94 (Green Valley); $45. An amazing wine, 96 (Napa Valley); $72. A stunningly good Caber- 95 (Willamette Valley); $58. A very massively concentrated in fruit, yet beautifully bal- net. Just dazzling in sheer delicious fruit, yet wonder- elegant and refined Evenstad Reserve, with grace notes anced. Clearly one of the greatest California of fully structured. So smooth and velvety, flooding the of sandalwood and a lovely cherry core. The fruit is the vintage. Dry and complex, it shows intricate flavors mouth with layers of blackberries, black cherries, cassis, immaculate, the concentration focused and lengthy, and of blackberries, Canadian bacon, mushu pork sauce, chocolate, mint, spice and toast. The tannins are the flavors are so artfully blended that the wine is seam- black pepper and smoky cedar flavors. Gorgeous and thrilling, being firm and soft at the same time. The less and perfectly balanced. Although it is drinking like compelling, but far too young. Drink 2012–2018. Cel- vineyard sourcing was Star, in Rutherford, and Stage- a mature wine, there is every reason to cellar wines lar Selection. —S.H. coach, on Atlas Peak, with a few drops from Beckstoffer such as this—it can develop like a fine Burgundy, over To Kalon. Very great now, and should develop over the decades. Cellar Selection. —P.G. next 10 years. —S.H.

Kenefick Ranch 2006 Pickett Road Red Far Niente 2008 Estate Bottled Cabernet 94 (Napa Valley); $55. Young, intense and bri- 95 Sauvignon (Oakville); $120. Shows the ele- ary, with summer herb notes of anise framing ripe, spicy Macauley 2007 Special Selected Late Har- gance and pedigree that this estate vineyard, in the blackberries. Oak adds a rich, deft touch of sweet char. 96 vest Botrytis Sémillon (Alexander Valley); heart of the Oakville bench, always shows. The tannins The tannins are considerable and brooding, giving this $45. This is one of the best dessert wines available from are sweet and ripe, and the wine brims with luscious dry young wine an astringent tightness. Shows all the California. It’s dazzlingly rich and sweet in orange jam, blackberry, cassis and mocha flavors, accented with new hallmarks of ageability. 45% , 43% Petit Verdot apricot, honey, buttered cinnamon toast and créme oak that’s flashy, yet perfectly in keeping with the wine’s 7% , 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Cellar brûlée flavors. The intense sweetness is perfectly bal- volume. Should slowly mature over the years. —S.H Selection. —S.H. anced with crisp acidity, and the wine despite its sweet- ness accomplishes the miracle of finishing dry and clean. The grapes are 100% Sémillon. —S.H.

Domaine Carneros 2005 Le Rêve Venge 2008 Bone Ash Vineyard Cabernet 95 (Carneros); $90. With this brut-style wine, 95 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $76. A beautiful, Zahtila 2007 Barlow Vineyards Cabernet Domaine Carneros competes against California’s most brilliant but immature Cabernet. It’s massively rich in 94 Sauvignon (Calistoga); $50. Very dark, rich serious contenders. It is certainly the blackberry and cherry pie filling, cassis, dark chocolate and dramatic. Massively constructed, with vast reserves finest Le Rêve ever, glamorous and provocative, mas- and fine, smoky oak flavors, wrapped into thick but fine, of blackberry jam, blackstrap molasses, mocha, smoked sively flavored in lemon, lime and tangerine flavors, yet sweet tannins. Shows elegance and finesse despite the meat, mushu plum sauce and sweet, smoky oak. The balanced and elegant, with the doughy tartness of power, but needs time. Best after 2014. Cellar Selec- tannins are big, ripe and astringent. A great Cabernet . A great achievement. —S.H. tion. —S.H. that clearly needs plenty of time. Drink 2015 and beyond. Cellar Selection. —S.H.

WineMag.com | 3 BUYING I GUIDE

Baldacci 2007 Brenda’s Vineyard Cabernet Michael David 2008 6th Sense Syrah Syrah 93 Sauvignon (Stags Leap District); $105. 93 (Lodi); $16. A ridiculously hedonistic bottle of Baldacci 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Shows its youth in the assaultive tannins that hit the Syrah, this hits you first with its heady aromas of strong 92 Leap District); $65. Tough in tannins, with an palate with astringent toughness. But underneath are black olive, tobacco and bacon, then seduces you fur- astringent, lockdown quality. That’s the iron fist of this rich, pure and vibrant blackberry, cherry and cassis fla- ther with layers of rich berry fruit topped by Syrah- wine. The velvet glove is the rich, flamboyant core of vors. A very fine wine, as this bottling tends to be, but proper pepper. Blended with Petite Sirah and Petit blackberries and cassis. Give this young wine at least six one in serious need of cellaring. It’s already throwing Verdot and fairly high in alcohol (15.5%) this is one for years to come around. Cellar Selection. —S.H. some sediment, suggesting it’s impatient to evolve. Give those who love good Syrah. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. it another 6–8 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.

Feudi di San Gregorio 2007 Pàtrimo (Cam- 93 pania); $120. The legend behind Pàtrimo is that the folks at Feudi di San Gregorio had misidenti- Santa Rita 2007 Casa Real Cabernet Sauvi- fied the grape variety planted in their historic vineyard 93 gnon (Maipo Valley); $75. One of Chile’s Château Moulin de la Rose 2008 Saint- until it was finally confirmed to be Merlot. Very few benchmark wines is typically clean, pure and inviting. 92 Julien; $70. One of the few properties in Saint- vineyards with international varieties exist in this part of The nose is ripe and lusty, while the palate is vital, juicy, Julien that is not a cru classé, Moulin de la Rose does the world. This is a beautifully elegant but large expres- fresh and crisp, with fine Cabernet flavors of black cur- have all the elegant, structured character of the vin- sion with precise aromas of blackberry, spice, choco- rant, cherry, chocolate and more. Probably the closest tage. The tannins are firm, suggesting good long-term late and maraschino cherry. The gorgeous 2007 vintage thing in style to great Napa Valley Cab; deep, dense aging prospects. Imported by Serge Doré Selections. shows tannins that could still age in the cellar and a and long on the finish. A hearty but refined wine to Cellar Selection. —R.V. slightly sweet or chewy finish. Imported by Palm Bay drink now through 2017. Imported by Palm Bay Inter- International. Cellar Selection. —M.L. national. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.

Hall 2007 Segassia Vineyard Cabernet Archery Summit 2008 Arcus Estate Pinot Cinnabar 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa 93 Sauvignon (Mount Veeder); $145. Hall, 92 Noir (Dundee Hills); $100. Spicy and 92 Cruz Mountains); $45. Cinnabar produced which has gotten huge scores over the years, now has assertive, this young, cellar-worthy Pinot Noir just hints this wine and has held it back longer than most other this Mount Veeder bottling, but the warning is that at the complexity within. Give it plenty of air time and it . As a result, the 100% Cabernet has achieved a they’re playing with fire. It’s so massive in fruit, it risks opens aromatically with allspice, sandalwood, perhaps velvety softness, making it immediately drinkable. It being ridiculed as a bombastic pop wine. There’s no some cola and pine needle. The tart and tangy berry has pretty flavors of cherries, black raspberries, choco- denying the power of the blackberries, currants, choco- fruit is still compact and primary, but fully ripe and late and smoky oak.—S.H. late and oak, but there’s a case to be made for elegance nicely sculpted into a well-defined wine from start to and restraint. Easily earns its high score, but the hope is finish. Cellar Selection. —P.G. that the winemaker will be mindful with future releases. —S.H.

4|WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 Château Béhèré Courtin 2008 Pauillac; 91 $68. The small Pauillac vineyard close to some Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) Feudi di San Gregorio 2006 Taurasi; $40. of the first growths is able to bring out all the Cabernet- 91 2008 Le Dix de Los Vascos (Colchagua Val- 92 This is a gorgeous interpretation of Aglianico in dominated structure of the appellation. Look for black ley); $50. Rich and bold from the start, with cassis, which the tannic grape is softened and rounded out currant fruits, dark tannins and dense texture. Age for raspberry, coffee and tobacco aromas that yield to thanks to quality . Aromas of chocolate six years. Imported by Serge Doré Selections. Cellar creamy mocha upon airing. The palate is ripe, tannic fudge, exotic spice, rum cake and loads of black fruit Selection. —R.V. and structured, with blackfruit flavors, a touch of herbs appear on the bouquet. You will, however, feel that and espresso. Long and herbal on the finish, with a characteristic tightness on the long, drying finish. smooth fade. Drink now through 2015. Imported by Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.L. Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.S.

Chime 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County); 91 $19. What a great Pinot, and look at that price. The wine is translucent in ruby hue, dry, silky in texture Matanzas Creek 2008 and crisp in acids, showing the textural hallmarks of a 91 (Sonoma County); $29. A beautiful Chardon- Hall 2007 Darwin Red Wine (Napa Valley); fine coastal bottling. The raspberry, cherry, cola and nay that shows the fruit and oak most people want from 92 $40. A juicy wine, rich, ripe and sweet in jammy spice flavors are delicious and complex. A terrific value. their wine, but also the acidity and balance to make it fruit and caramelized oak flavors. Black raspberries, Production was 1,100 cases. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. vibrant. The pineapple and buttered toast flavors finish blackberries and mocha, spiced with cinnamon and in a scour of acidic stony minerals that cleanse and stim- pepper, flood the mouth, wrapped into beautifully ulate the palate. Drink now. —S.H. sculpted, sweet tannins. A lovely wine to drink now. The wine is mainly Syrah, with 5% Cabernet Sauvi- gnon. —S.H

Santa Rita 2008 Medalla Real Cabernet 91 Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $20. A profound Cabernet from Santa Rita’s home vineyard in Alto Stark-Condé 2007 Three Pines Unfined Clos du Val 2009 Ariadne Sémillon-Sauvi- Jahuel. The hue is dark and opaque, while the nose is 92 and Unfiltered Syrah (Jonkershoek Val- 91 gnon Blanc (Napa Valley); $25. This blend deep and earthy, but also intensely fruity. Shows fine ley); $35. An immediately attractive wine with intense of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc is bone dry and structure and a lot of black cherry and cassis. Grabby, aromas of black raspberry, cherry and plum laced with sophisticated, with a bite of acidity that makes it excep- tight and ageable through at least 2013. The real deal in toasted cedar and mocha accents. The texture is like tionally food friendly. Made with just a touch of oak, it’s affordable Chilean higher-end CS; offers a little of crushed velvet, and the rich mouth filled with firm but marked by brisk flavors of lemons, limes, green apples everything, from spice to herbs to olive to fine fruit. fine-grain tannins. A touch of cola spice unwinds on and Asian pears, with a hint of tart gooseberry. A Imported by Palm Bay International. Editors’ Choice. the long finish. Drink now–2014. Imported by Vine- mouthwateringly clean wine that’s great as a cocktail —M.S. yard Brands. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. sipper with little appetizers. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

WineMag.com | 5 BUYING I GUIDE

Domaine Carneros 2007 Brut (Carneros); 90 $26. This is a glamorous, fashionable wine that Château Tertre de Viaud 2009 Côtes de gives the pleasure you want in a bubbly. It’s dryish and 89 Bourg; $20. A ripe, smoky wine, full of very crisp, with doughy yeast, raspberry and lime flavors. A juicy fruit. Black plums and berries are complemented Wine Spots 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon good price for a California sparkling wine of this quality. by a core of firm tannins and bright acidity. Sweet, rich 91 (Napa Valley); $25. The upside of the reces- Editors’ Choice. —S.H. and attractive. Imported by Serge Doré Selections. — sion is that wines this good are being sold for lower R.V. prices, which is great news for consumers. This Caber- net, basically a négociant’s blend, is really delicious. It’s rich, dry, tannic and lush in blackberry and cherry tart, chocolate and smoky cedar flavors. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

Joel Gott 2008 Dillian Ranch 90 (Amador County); $28. Delicious. A drink- Francis Coppola 2009 Diamond Collection ably juicy, brambly version of Amador County Zin, con- 89 Gold Label Chardonnay (Monterey Cinnabar 2007 Chardonnay (Santa Cruz sistently one of Joel Gott’s best, with appetizing texture County); $16. Here’s a nice, bright Chardonnay that 90 Mountains); $29. Still acidic and steely in and mouthfeel and dry, dusty tannins, ready to go now can be described as Chablisian. It’s bone dry and very minerals at the age of nearly four years, this Chardon- with a range of meaty foods but also able to age. —V.B bright in tangy acidity, with a squirt of lime juice over nay has an elegance that will appeal to and Meyer lemons, pineapples and green apples. A touch of foodies. It’s a Chablis-style wine, bone dry and crisp, oak adds just the right of buttered toast. Easy to with tart lemon, lime and grapefruit flavors. Defines a find, with 73,000 cases produced. Editors’ Choice. — leaner California style that is classically Santa Cruz S.H. Mountains. —S.H.

S.A. Prüm 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Ries- 90 ling Kabinett (Mosel); $25. Makes an inter- Incognito 2009 Blend (Lodi); Cinnabar 2008 Mercury Rising (California); esting contrast with the J.J. Prüm bottling from the 89 $18. Michael David makes this white wine, a 90 $21. A blend of the five major Bordeaux vari- same site, weighing in at a full 1.5% less in finished blend of mostly Viognier and Chardonnay, with smaller eties, this is a deliciously soft wine. So easy to like for its alcohol, and showing mineral-inflected passion fruit fla- amounts of Malvasia Bianca, Roussanne, Sauvignon rich blackberry, cherry, raspberry and smoky oak fla- vors and a touch of vanilla. The sweetness is finely bal- Blanc and Symphony, steel-tank fermented and aged, a vors, courtesy of 40% new barrels. Shows lots of class anced by mouthwatering acidity on the finish. Imported deliciously bright and perfumed, light-drinking, golden for the price. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. by Palm Bay International. —J.C. wine with a tropical fruit nose and ripe peach and melon as it goes down. —V.B.

6|WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 Sobon Estate 2008 Fiddletown Zinfandel 89 (Fiddletown); $20. A ripe, rustic Zin, the Fid- Kenwood 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River Castel dell’Angelo 2006 Colli e Sole dletown being one of Sobon’s better bottlings every 88 Valley); $16. This Pinot combines power with 87 Aglianico (Campania); $NA. Here’s a year, grown high in elevation. Its serious tannins are elegance in a cost-effective way, making it a great buy. smokey, mineral-driven red wine from southern Italy balanced by burgeoning blackberry and blueberry fruit It will stand against many more expensive wines, with that offers a solid, silky ride just until the end, when interweaved with all the tobacco and leather one has its silky tannins and dry, interesting cherry, raspberry those jackhammer tannins hit. Pair this wine with a fatty come to expect from this neck of the woods. —V.B. and sandalwood flavors. Easy to find, with production or creamy meat dish to help balance the firmness of nearing 35,000 cases. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. the structure. Imported by Ital Pastaio Imports. —M.L

Terre du Lion 2008 Saint-Julien; $16. This 89 wine is finely structured with the red berry and black plum fruit flavors leading to a central core of tan- Sobon Estate 2008 Cougar Hill Zinfandel nins. There is good juiciness as well, the whole ensem- 88 (Amador County); $17. A nice dusty Zinfan- Indulge 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (North ble promising good medium-term aging. The second del from Sobon’s Cougar Hill, with spicy, pepper and 87 Coast); $20. Packaged in an unusual plastic- wine of Château du Glana. Imported by Serge Doré cedar elements rounding out the prominent blackberry. style recyclable bag, with a seal you have to figure out Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. A deeply concentrated wine that would be great with how to open, this is a fine Sauvignon Blanc. At the barbecue. —V.B. equivalent of ten bucks for a regular bottle, it’s dry, crisp and fruity, with lime and gooseberry flavors. Delivers lots of bang for the buck. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

Barista 2009 Pinotage (Western Cape); 87 $15. Mocha is the dominating characteristic of Valley of the Moon 2008 Syrah (Sonoma this wine, with notes of cherry pie filling, black rasp- 89 County); $16. A beautiful Syrah that stands up berry and sweet cigar tobacco playing against it. to bottlings costing far more. Dry and medium-bodied, Creamy and full in the mouth with fine tannins that Valley of the Moon 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- it’s marked by smooth tannins and deliciously complex linger through the long finish. Drink now. Imported by 87 gnon (Sonoma County); $18. Lots to like in flavors of black cherries, licorice, bacon, black pepper Indigo Wine Group. —L.B. this Cabernet, at a great price for the quality. It’s dry and sandalwood. Production was 3,600 cases. Editors’ and smooth, with classic Cabernet flavors of blackber- Choice. —S.H. ries, currants and smoky oak. A great house wine or a restaurant by-the-glass pour. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

WineMag.com | 7 BUYING I GUIDE BESTBUYS BESTBUYS

Sobon Estate 2009 Viognier (Amador 86 County); $15. A rich Amador County estate- grown Viognier with a touch of diesel on the nose bal- The White Knight 2008 Viognier (Clarks- anced out by honey and peach, this wine spent time Foris 2009 Pinot Gris (Rogue Valley); $14. 88 burg); $13. Full of minerality on the nose, this barrel fermenting in French and American oak and 90 Foris has Pinot Gris dialed in, showcasing the tropical Viognier from Clarksburg grapes is dry and would go well seafood or, as the suggests, pep- subtle, delicate flavors perhaps closer to Italian Pinot acidic, well balanced and not over the top in alcohol per steak. —V.B. Grigio than other, big, fruity domestic bottlings. The (13.5%), a spicy, citrus-laden California Viognier worth winery location,— in the cool Illinois Valley of south- trying. Best Buy. —V.B. west Oregon, puts an Alpine twist on the flavors— SPIRITS lemon peel, pineapple, lime, and just a touch of honey. Best Buy. —P.G.

Santa Rita 2008 Reserva Cabernet Sauvi- Pisco Capel Reservado (Chile; Shaw-Ross 88 gnon (Maipo Valley); $12. Nice and ripe, 93 International Importers, Miramar, FL); Boekenhoutskloof 2009 The Wolftrap with light whiffs of olive and herbs and strong berry 40% abv, $16. The scent reads as fruity and a touch 89 (Western Cape); $11. Ripe and juicy with fruit aromas. The palate is pure Maipo, meaning it smoky; on the tongue, it’s surprisingly sweet, finishing notes of black raspberry, cherry and mulberry accented blends herbal notes with black fruits, especially cassis. long and fruity, with some herbaceous and vanilla notes by hints of mocha and cigar spice. The mouth is silky Firm in structure, stout on the finish, and ends with a on the finish. A smooth and sophisticated pisco, and an and decadent with a wonderfully peppery finish that hint of chocolate. Imported by Palm Bay International. excellent value. —K.N. lingers nicely. Widely available with 15,000 cases Best Buy. —M.S. imported. Drink now. Imported by Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —L.B. BESTBUYS

Emiliana 2010 Natura Un-oaked Chardon- 87 nay (Casablanca Valley); $11. This unoaked Sebastiani 2009 Chardonnay (Sonoma Casas del Bosque 2010 Reserva Sauvignon Chard is light and peachy on the nose, with apple aro- 91 County); $13. Balance, elegance and varietal 89 Blanc (Casablanca Valley); $12. Oceanic and mas. It’s a fruity, driving, almost grating wine with purity mark this wine. It’s delicious and zesty, filled with mildly green on the nose, with grassy notes and appeal- apple, white grape and melony flavors. Super fruity and pineapple, pear, green apple, honey and oak, wrapped ing citrusy scents. The palate is juicy, crisp and zesty, zesty without the wood tempering, with a citric, lightly into a texture of buttercream and with a long, spicy fin- with flavors of fresh lettuce, lime and green herbs. Fin- bitter and pithy finish. Imported by Banfi Vintners. ish. What a great price. Best Buy. —S.H. ishes light and pretty. Imported by Vinocopia. Best Best Buy. —M.S. Buy. —M.S.

8|WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 BESTBUYS BESTBUYS BESTBUYS

Emiliana 2010 Eco Balance Sauvignon 87 Blanc (Bío Bío Valley); $9. A glassy, crisp style of SB from Bío Bío in Chile’s south. The nose is pun- Barton & Guestier 2010 Réserve Sauvi- gent and slick, while the palate has a smooth, tangy set 86 gnon Blanc (Cotes de Gascogne); $8. Clas- Redtree 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali- of green fruit flavors like lime and apple. Reserved on sic southwest France Sauvignon Blanc, bright, fresh 85 fornia); $8. This is one of the best deals, the finish, with chiseled acids and fresh simplicity. and citrus-flavored. Great for summer drinking, clean maybe the best, in a Cabernet Sauvignon available Imported by Banfi Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S. and delicious. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA. today at this price. It’s dry and rich in blackberry, Best Buy. —R.V. cherry, mint and smoky oak flavors, wrapped into finely ground tannins. A great wine to buy by the case for a house red. Production was nearly 30,000 cases. Best Buy. —S.H.

Morandé 2010 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc Vistamar 2009 Sepia Reserva Cabernet 87 (Casablanca Valley); $11. Piquant aromas mix 86 Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $10. Spicy and with dusty apple on the nose. The palate is tangy and dry on the nose, with red cherry, plum and candied Miguel Torres 2009 Santa Digna Reserve zingy, with green apple, pineapple and lemony flavors. sweetness. The palate has good body and feel, with 85 Carmenère (Central Valley); $10. Earthy and More simple and straightforward than complex, but medicinal plum and berry flavors along with an olive damp smelling, with chunky black cherry and olive aro- well made and spans the 3 Z’s: zest, zap and zing. accent. Juicy and forward, with a lightly herbal finish. mas. The palate has a slightly choppy feel and then Imported by Morande USA. Best Buy. —M.S. Imported by Morande USA. Best Buy. —M.S. spicy, sweet flavors of herbs and blackberry. Finishes a little burnt and bitter, but overall there’s enough sweet- ness and ripeness to offset any herbal qualities. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Best Buy. —M.S

Domaine de Ballade 2009 Sauvignon 86 Blanc- (Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne); $11. Dominated by herbaceous Sauvi- gnon Blanc, this cool wine is a great alternative New Redtree 2009 Chardonnay (California); $8. flipflop 2009 Pinot Noir (California); $7. Zealand Sauvignon. It has nettle and gooseberry flavors 85 For the price, you get a rich, sweet Chardonnay, 85 The best bargain Pinot Noir in the state. It’s with an attractive poise and fresh acidity. Screwcap. plush in pineapple, honey and oak flavors. Best Buy. ruby-clear in color, dry and light-bodied, with pleasant Imported by Bourgeois Family Selections. Best Buy. —S.H. flavors of cherries, cola, spices and cedar. Production —R.V. was 20,000 cases. Best Buy. —S.H.

WineMag.com | 9 BUYING I GUIDE

all terrific, with this example showing great intensity from one of the world’s marginal grapegrowing regions. BESTBUYS and power without excessive weight. Apple and lime Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C. notes are underscored by something akin to liquid slate, while citrus notes linger on the long, vibrant fin- Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2009 ish. Imported by Miller Squared Inc. Editors’ Choice. 90 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese —J.C. (Mosel); $39. For a spätlese, this is on the drier, racier side of things, with lime-like notes providing vibrance Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2009 to the wine’s stony, slate-like core. It’s light to medium 92 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese in body, with a crisp, refreshing finish. Try as an apéri- (Mosel); $23. If there is any criticism to be made of tif, or alongside certain Asian dishes. Imported by Val- this wine, it might be that it is just too fruity. Waves of ckenberg International, Inc and Slocum & Sons, honey and tropical fruit coat the mouth, wonderfully Inc.—J.C. balanced by zesty acidity, and while it is sweet and lush it never seems cloying or heavy. Delicious now–2015, Dr. Loosen 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr at least. Imported by Miller Squared Inc. Editors’ 90 Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); $30. Loosen’s flipflop 2010 Moscato (California); $7. This Choice. —J.C. 2009 spätlese from the Wehlener Sonnenuhr is a lush, 85 is a dessert wine because it’s frankly sweet in medium-bodied wine loaded with honey and peaches. honey, sugared pineapple tart and lemon pie filling fla- S.A. Prüm 2009 Graacher Himmelreich It’s superripe and succulent, with a long, fruity finish. vors. With crisp acidity, it’s a nice sipper, clean and deli- 92 Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); $31. A lovely Try it with Szechuan dishes, which will buffer the cious. It’s the best sweet Moscato at this price in effort from proprietor Raimund Prüm, this plump, sweetness of the wine while the wine tames some of California. Best Buy. —S.H. creamy-textured spätlese displays ample minerality— the heat. Imported by Loosen Bros. USA. —J.C. there’s a distinctly slate-driven note—allied to ripe apple, stone fruit and citrus. Sweet but not overwhelmingly so, Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2009 Wehlener Son- this would be terrific with slightly sweet or spicy dishes. 90 nenuhr Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); $31. Imported by Palm Bay International. —J.C. Lush, honeyed and tropically fruited, this epitomizes the Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler house style. It seems sweeter Dr. Loosen 2009 Erdener Treppchen Ries- than many other 2009 spätleses, with its considerable 91 ling Spätlese (Mosel); $30. The wines from sugar evident on the long finish. Drink it on its own, or Erden are almost always stars in the Loosen stable, and alongside spicy Asian cuisine. Imported by Winesellers this 2009 spätlese is no exception. It’s sweet and lush, Ltd. —J.C. with ripe cherry-berry notes balanced by fresh limes and a chaser of crushed stone. Long and balanced, suit- Joh. Jos. Prüm 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr able for contemplative sipping or partnering slightly 90 Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); $47. Light-bod- spicy or sweet dishes. Imported by Loosen Bros. USA. ied and lithe, this is not as fruity or flashy as many of its —J.C. brethren from this vintage. Instead, it offers mineral complexity only slightly buffered by notes of ripe flipflop 2010 Pinot Grigio (California); $7. Joh. Jos. Prüm 2009 Graacher Himmelre- apples and stone fruit, and a long, citrusy finish. Give it 85 Textbook Pinot Grigio, crisp in acidity and 91 ich Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); $42. This some time in the cellar, where it should blossom in slightly sweet, with brilliant lemongrass, pineapple, pear, wine shows terrific complexity at this young age, with another 5–7 years. Imported by Valckenberg Interna- green apple and honeysuckle flavors. So easy to drink, at spicy notes akin to musk, dusty notes akin to crushed tional, Inc. —J.C. a great price. With production at 15,000 cases, it’s easy stone and plenty of underlying fruit. It’s stony yet to find. Best Buy. —S.H. sweet, lush yet crisp. A trifle heavier than expected, it Studert-Prüm 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr finishes long, with savory-briny notes. Might this rating 90 Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); $24. Light in seem conservtive in 5–10 years? Imported by Valcken- body, with a fine backbone of taut acidity, this is a berg International, Inc. —J.C. throwback to a time when spätleses were slightly drier than today. Delicate scents of crushed stone and Peter Nicolay 2009 Bernkasteler Badstube pressed flowers are underscored by hints of green 91 Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); $29. Not far off apple and lime. This would make a fine apéritif on its the quality of Nicolay’s 2009 Badstube auslese, the own, or could perhaps partner subtle seafood dishes. spätlese still displays waves of fruit, just slightly less Imported by Winesellers Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. ripeness. The flavors shade toward pear and melon, with an intriguing spice note that shows through on Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2009 Bernkasteler the finish. Sweet, but food-friendly thanks to balanced 89 Badstube Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); $28. acids and modest alcohol of 8.5%. Imported by Miller Medium-bodied and lush, powered by ripe fruit fla- Squared Inc. —J.C. vors of apple, peach and pineapple. There’s a bit of a flinty note on the nose and a slight vinyl-like element Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2009 on the finish, which add either complexity or detract flipflop 2009 Chardonnay (California); $7. 91 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese from the fruit, depending on your perspective. 84 Not bad for a seven buck Chardonnay in a (Mosel); $41. The 2009 Scharzhofberger from von Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. screwtop. Shows plenty of varietal flavor in the butter- Kesslestatt evinces such crystalline purity of fruit that it cream, honey and pineapple flavors. Easy to find, with almost hurts—in a good way. It’s light to medium in Vereinigte Hospitien 2009 Scharzhof- 20,000 cases produced. Best Buy. —S.H. body, yet shows knife-edge intensity of strawberry and 89 berger Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); $32. lime flavors and manages to be creamy-textured on the Light almost to the point of etherealness, this is a deli- midpalate yet crisp on the finish. In short, it shows all cate yet expressive rendering of one of the Saar’s great- of the wonderful contradictions of supremely ripe fruit est vineyards, boasting subtle stone shadings, damp

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 mossy notes, green apple and lime. Clean and refresh- focus on fruit purity is reflected admirably in this pris- Maximin Grünhäuser 2009 Abtsberg Ries- ing on the finish. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. tine Riesling. The only quibble would be a slight lack of 85 ling Kabinett (Mosel); $35. A bit of an anom- complexity. Sweet berry fruit is balanced by racy lime- aly for this fine Ruwer estate, where being merely good like acidity, resulting in a wine that’s clean, refreshing is a disappointment. It starts off with attractive stone RIESLING KABINETT and nicely balanced at a low 7.5% abv. Imported by and ripe apple notes, but seems somewhat acetic on Loosen Bros. USA. —J.C. the palate—there’s an intrusive pickle-like note. Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C. 90 2009 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabi- S.A. Prüm 2009 Prüm Blue Riesling Kabi- nett (Mosel); $22. This kabinett possesses lovely bal- 89 nett (Mosel); $19. Intentionally skewed ance, marrying sweet pineapple aspects with zesty toward the drier side of kabinett, this is an impressive DRY RIESLING citrus notes. The fruit is lush to the point of slightly effort from proprietor Raimund Prüm. It’s light in body, covering the underlying minerality, but remains clean with fairly ripe fruit flavors of honeyed apple and a hint Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2009 Graach and racy on the finish. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. of apricot, yet intensely refreshing thanks to crisp acid- 91 Josephshöfer Riesling Trocken GG (Mosel); Editors’ Choice. —J.C. ity. Drink now. Imported by Palm Bay International. $54. In 2009, the Josephshöfer seems to offer the most —J.C. mineral presence of the various von Kesselstatt GG bot- Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2009 Wehlener Son- tlings, displaying an almost briny character at first, then 90 nenuhr Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); $23. In a Schmitges 2009 Red Slate Riesling Kabi- molten rock tinged with hints of peach, orange and flight of five 2009 kabinetts from the Sonnenuhr, this 89 nett (Mosel); $19. A light, refreshing style of apple. The alcohol is only 12.5%, yet it comes across as was the most alcoholic (at 9.5% abv), but the extra kabinett, with a floral, perfumed nose, ripe fruit flavors full bodied, rich and creamy in texture, with a long, weight didn’t stand out beyond a bit of extra creami- of apple and peach, plenty of citrus for balance and spice-driven finish. Imported by Valckenberg Interna- ness on the palate. Hints of lees and slate add complex- even a hint of crushed stone to add complexity. It’s easy- tional, Inc. —J.C. ity to the apple and citrus notes, then linger elegantly drinking, perfect for summer sipping. Imported by on the finish. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. Editors’ Magellan Wine Imports. —J.C. Maximin Grünhäuser 2009 Herrenberg Choice. —J.C. 90 Alte Reben Riesling Trocken (Mosel); $42. Bollig-Lehnert 2009 Piesporter Despite carrying 12% alcohol, this is a reasonably light- Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2009 Bernkasteler 88 Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); bodied wine, with intriguing passion fruit notes along- 90 alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling $19. Pale in color and light in body, this waif of a kabi- side apple, melon and pear. The midpalate is slightly Kabinett (Mosel); $25. Sweet and lush in the house nett is undeniably attractive, offering a delicate kaleido- creamy, the finish long, bringing with it hints of crushed style, but lighter on its feet than many of the other bot- scope of pear, apple, pineapple and lime fruit linked stone and spice. Imported by Valckenberg Interna- tlings from Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler, this kabinett shows together in gentle harmony. Drink it over the next year tional, Inc. —J.C. some intriguing fumé-like notes on the nose, then deliv- or two. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. ers ripe melon and pear fruit on the palate. Finishes Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2009 Piesporter long. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. Studert-Prüm 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr 90 Goldtröpfchen Riesling Trocken GG 88 Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); $21. Focused and (Mosel); $43. Like the Josephshöfer bottling, von Joh. Jos. Prüm 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr pure, with delicate lime and green apple shadings that Kesselstatt’s 2009 GG from the Piesporter 90 Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); $37. Manfred come together in a yin-yang of tart and sweet to repre- Goldtröpfchen boasts a salty minerality that under- Prüm’s 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett is a bit big- sent the essence of the Mosel kabinett style. Crisp and scores the ripe flavors of peach and orange zest. It’s ger than usual, and perhaps a bit drier as well at 9% refreshing, this is an easy-drinking wine that seems des- medium to full in body, and nearly bone dry, with a abv, but it still displays hallmark notes of slate, lime and tined to be consumed over the next few years. long, mouth-watering finish. Imported by Valckenberg apple. Fruit, mineral and gingery spice notes linger on Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. International, Inc. —J.C. the finish. Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C. Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2009 Würtz 2008 Geyerscheiss Riesling (Rhein- 87 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett 90 hessen); $40. A unique style of Riesling, natu- Peter Nicolay 2009 Bernkasteler Badstube (Mosel); $29. This is relatively light in body despite an rally fermented on the skins for 20 days prior to 90 Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); $20. Nicely bal- ample 9% abv. It’s slightly sweet, yet shows a taut, wiry . The result is intriguing: honey and baked anced and nicely priced, this is a medium-bodied kabi- frame and crisp green apple and citrus flavors accented apple notes tinged with peach-like ripeness and briny nett that would make delicious summertime drinking. by hints of crushed stone. Imported by Valckenberg minerality. It’s medium-bodied, crisp and dry yet with a It shows hints of wet stone, but also layers of sweet International, Inc and Slocum & Sons, Inc. —J.C. sense of honeyed richness. Imported by Domaine apple, pear and lemon fruit, which ease into a long, Select Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. harmoniously crisp and clean finish. Imported by Miller Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2009 Squared Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. 87 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett Dr. Heyden 2009 Diamant Dry Riesling (Mosel); $15. Enlivened by a touch of CO2, this is a 89 (Rheinhessen); $21. This wine, from the S.A. Prüm 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Ries- light, crisp kabinett that comes close to epitomizing the Oppenheimer Herrenberg, is a broad, medium-bodied 90 ling Kabinett (Mosel); $25. For full review style. Lime and green apple flavors, a good balance Riesling that comes across as just a bit off dry. Petrol- see page 6. Imported by Palm Bay International. between sugar and acid, with a hints of citrus pith on like notes impart minerality, while the fruit hints more the finish. Imported by Miller Squared Inc. —J.C. at citrus or lychee. Finishes long, with hints of gingery Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2009 spice. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. 89 Bernkasteler alte Badstube am Doctor- Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2009 Piesporter berg Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); $22. Comes across 86 Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); Maximin Grünhäuser 2009 Riesling as slightly rich, sweet and heavy for a kabinett, but this $30. Representing a bit of a chink in von Kesselstatt’s 89 Trocken (Mosel); $25. Nearly as good as the wine remains very enjoyable for its lush, sweet flavors impressive array of 2009s, this wine features slightly Herrenberg Alte Reben bottling, this dry Riesling fea- of ripe peaches, baked apple and honey. Imported by restrained notes of pineapple and green apple in a tures a lacy swirl of apple, vanilla and citrus embedded Miller Squared Inc. —J.C. slightly uneasy alliance of sweet and sour. Drink up. in a base of what can only be said to resemble rainwater Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C. collected in a stony hollow. The flavors linger on the fin- Dr. Loosen 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr ish while remaining light and fresh. Imported by Valck- 89 Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); $26. Loosen’s enberg International, Inc. —J.C.

WineMag.com | 11 BUYING I GUIDE

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2009 Maximin Grünhäuser 2009 Riesling Bergweiler is often quite sweet, and the 2009 Noble 89 Scharzhofberger Riesling Trocken GG 88 (Mosel); $25. This is the entry-level wine from House is soft and succulent, marked by ripe apple and (Mosel); $41. An interesting example of dry Riesling, the great Maximin Grünhäuser estate on the Ruwer. peach flavors. Pleasant, if slightly lacking in zip. one that displays a dense, honeyed bouquet and flavors It’s nearly dry in style, with hints of struck flint overlying Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. that resemble honey but without the sweetness. Hard concentrated passion fruit flavors. The slightly creamy to imagine, but that’s the closest approximation I can midpalate brings the flavors seamlessly onto the linger- Landshut 2009 Riesling (Mosel); $5. For come up with. It’s creamy on the midpalate and fairly ing finish. Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc. 84 only $5, this wine offers lemonade-style refresh- full bodied (12.5% abv) for a wine from this far north. —J.C. ment with a kick. It’s simple, fruity and direct, with Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C. apple and citrus notes that provide a sweet and sour Peter Nicolay 2009 Riesling (Mosel); $16. contrast to each other. Drink now. Imported by Prestige Christoph von Nell 2009 Kaseler 88 This crisp, easy-drinking entry-level Riesling Wine Group. Best Buy. —J.C. 88 Dominikanerberg Ruva Nova Riesling from the Peter Nicolay estate represents a good buy. It’s Trocken (Mosel); $43. From a little-known site in the plump, with a nice balance of sweet and tart ripe apples Ruwer, this wine starts off slowly, then builds to a fine and zesty limes that provide great refreshment value. GERMAN REDS crescendo. The aromas are barely present, but the fla- Imported by Miller Squared Inc. —J.C. vors of apple and citrus expand on the palate, adding SPÄTBURGUNDER/ mineral notes on the lengthy finish. Imported by Valck- Dr. Loosen 2009 Dr. L Riesling (Mosel); $12. enberg International, Inc. —J.C. 86 Dr. L has developed into the sort of consistent, PINOT NOIR large-production wine consumers can depend on when Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2009 Kaseler faced with an otherwise unknown array of wines. The Huber 2007 Wildenstein R Spätburgunder 88 Nies’chen Riesling Trocken GG (Mosel); 2009 is off dry, with crisp acidity, lime and pineapple 90 Trocken (Baden); $96. Huber’s three R (for $49. The von Kesselstatt estate released four GG bot- flavors and a mouthwatering finish. Drink it over the Reserve) bottlings are all borderline excellent in 2007, tlings in 2009, and this wine was perhaps the least of next year or so. Imported by Loosen Bros. USA. —J.C. but this one gets the nod for its harmonious complexity them. It’s very good nonetheless, with fresh, slightly flo- of herb, cherry, mushroom and coffee notes, and its blüfeld 2009 Medium Sweet Riesling ral aromas and bold flavors of baked apple and orange supple tannins, in fine balance with its medium body (Mosel); $11. zest. There’s a chunkiness in the mouth and a slight 85 Admirable quality from a large- and moderate acidity. Drink now–2020. Imported by volume producer, combining hints of honey, ripe apples Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C. coarseness of texture compared to the others, but that’s and crushed clover leaves. It’s on the weighty, sweet side, splitting hairs. Imported by Valckenberg International, but balanced by a fine vein of citrus on the finish. Drink Huber 2007 Malterdinger Bienenberg R Inc. —J.C. now. Imported by Constellation Brands, Inc. —J.C. 89 Spätburgunder Trocken (Baden); $50. It’s Melsheimer 2009 Riesling Trocken (Mosel); really splitting hairs when evaluating Huber’s 2007 R Clean Slate 2009 Riesling (Mosel); $11. bottlings. This one comes across as slighty reduced, $19. Although this is not particularly intense or 87 Plump, sweet and creamy in texture, with apple with some cabbage-like notes that require vigorous complex, there’s no denying its easy appeal. It’s nearly 85 and citrus flavors that offer simple, straightforward swirling to dissipate. Yet it remains complex, with black dry, with a creamy midpalate and medium body, and fea- pleasure. Good quality, impressive for the 50,000 cases cherries and a slightly more muscular, tannic style than tures easy-to-like notes of apple, melon and citrus. Fin- produced. Imported by Winebow. —J.C. Huber’s other ’07s. Drink 2013–2020. Imported by Val- ishes refreshingly clean. Drink it over the next year or ckenberg International, Inc. —J.C. two. Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2009 Riesling (Mosel); $10. A plump, juicy off-dry Riesling, Huber 2007 Bombacher Sommerhalde R Weingut Liebfrauenstift 2009 Dry Riesling 85 the 2009 from Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler represents Spätburgunder Trocken (Baden); $59. (Rheinhessen); $15. 89 87 A decent value in dry a solid value. Hints of diesel mark the nose, while the Toasty and dark-fruited, Huber’s 2007 Bombacher Riesling, this offering from the home estate of Valcken- peach and lime flavors play off one another nicely. Sommerhalde R falls somewhere between the Wilden- berg features scents of lime, clover blossom and petri- Nothing spectacular, just good everyday juice at an stein and Malterdinger Bienenberg in style. It’s less chor (wet stones), then delivers bright citrusy-apple excellent price. Imported by Miller Squared Inc. Best herbal and more powerful than the former, but not as flavors. It’s medium in body and broad in the mouth yet Buy. —J.C. muscular as the latter. The tannins are still silky, yet crisp at the same time, finishing with zesty acids. Drink there’s great intensity, ending on a long, slightly charred now. Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C. Louis Guntrum 2009 Riesling (Rhein- note. Drink 2012–2020. Imported by Valckenberg 85 hessen); $13. Round on the palate for a Ries- International, Inc. —J.C. Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2009 Dry Ries- ling, with plumpness and sweetness to the midpalate 86 ling (Mosel); $14. This is on the big side for a that’s balanced by hints of pink grapefruit and passion Grafen Neipperg 2006 Neipperger Schloss- Mosel Riesling, at 12% alcohol, and the warmth shows fruit and a fresh, clean finish. Patio wine. Imported by 88 berg Spätburgunder (Württemberg); $55. through just a little bit. Still, the scents of wet moss and Broadbent Selections, Inc. —J.C. This Pinot Noir from southern Germany balances stone and chunky flavors suggesting melon, peach and attractively between berry fruit and more savory notes citrus are undeniably attractive. Drink now. Imported Starling Castle 2009 Riesling (Mosel); $10. of cured meat, leather and wet stone. It’s medium bod- by Miller Squared Inc. —J.C. 85 Plump, creamy and off dry, this is Riesling that’s ied, with gentle, slightly dusty tannins and a mouthwa- easy and approachable, with bright lime sherbet and tering finish. Drink it over the next 2–3 years. Imported green apple notes. Drink now. Imported by Prestige by Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C. OTHER RIESLING Wine Group. Best Buy. —J.C. Weingut Burg Ravensburg 2007 Noir Dry Dr. Fischer 2009 Ockfener Bockstein Ries- Würtz 2009 Potate! Riesling (Rhein- 88 (Baden); $19. This is a blend of 85% Pinot 89 ling (Mosel); $13. A strong showing for this 85 hessen); $15. Fresh, zesty and on the dry side, Noir and 15% Lemberger—and yet the Lemberger is entry-level offering from the Dr. Fischer estate on the with notes of wet stone and citrus and a finish hinting at the dominant grape. The color is dark, the aromas and Saar, with some funky passion fruit notes adding charac- green apples. Shows some heft, weighing in at 13% abv. flavors are chunky and less nuanced than pure Pinot ter to this creamy-textured, amply concentrated wine. Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. Noir, and the tannins are ripe but lack the silky charac- Finishes off-dry, with lingering mineral notes. Hand- ter of Pinot. It’s a solid, robust red that would make a picked at kabinett-level ripeness, this is a great value. Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2009 Noble House nice match for burgers and the like. Imported by USA Imported by Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —J.C. 84 Riesling (Mosel); $12. The style at Dr. Pauly- Wine Imports. —J.C.

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 THE WINE ENTHUSIAST Huber 2007 Alte Reben Spätburgunder immensely attractive wine. It has black berry juice fla- BUYING GUIDE 87 Trocken (Baden); $80. The biggest difference vors while power comes from the dense tannins that between Huber’s R bottlings and this Alte Reben (old give shape to the fruit. Expect the wine to age well over The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new releases vine) Pinot Noir is the crispness of this wine’s acids. It 5–6 years. —R.V. and selected older wines evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Maga- still shows the complexity Huber builds in: an herbal zine’s editors and other qualified tasters. On a regular basis the Buying Guide includes reports on special tastings and the tinge to the cherry fruit, hints of mushroom and coffee, Château Fonréaud 2006 Listrac-Médoc; wines of specific producers. Regular contributors to our Buying it just comes across as a bit sharper and edgier. Drink 90 $NA. Firm tannins mark this as a wine for Guide include Senior Editor/ Tasting Director Joe Czerwinski, now–2015. Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc. aging. At the same time, the sweet and ripe fruit gives Assistant Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Tasting Coordinator —J.C. weight and richness. Wood flavors just creep in to Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa and Contributing Editor Michael Schachner in New York, Euro- round out the tannins at the end. Keep for 7–8 years. pean Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Monica Huber 2008 Malterdinger Pinot Noir Cellar Selection. —R.V. Larner in Rome, Contributing Editor Steve Heimoff in Oak- 87 Trocken (Baden); $50. Huber’s entry-level land, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and Con- bottling comes across as somewhat conflicted in 2008, Château de Villegeorge 2008 Haut-Médoc; tributing Reviewer Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa. If a wine with aromas of mushrooms and twigs, but flavors more $30. Wood and solid fruit give the character of was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear 89 following the note. When no initials appear, the wine was eval- reminiscent of ripe cherries; plump and round in the this wine. It has a dense, tannic and dusty fruit texture. uated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note mouth, but crisply acidic, almost zingy on the finish. Fruit flavors show a juicy black cherry character, under- reflect the input of all tasters. Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C. lined with licorice and tight acidity. —R.V. Each review contains a score, the full name of the wine, its suggested national retail price, and a tasting note. If price can- Grafen Neipperg 2008 Spätburgunder Terre du Lion 2008 Saint-Julien; $16. For not be confirmed, $NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. 86 Trocken (Württemberg); $28. A pretty, 89 full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice. vibrant Pinot Noir from southern Germany, featuring TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS strawberry and raspberry fruit, some slightly herbal Château Haut-Maurac 2007 Médoc; $NA. Tastings are conducted individually or in a group setting and performed blind or in accordance with accepted industry prac- nuances and a bright, lively finish. Drink now–2013. 89 An attractively fruity wine, its tannins softened tices. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C. with sweet black plum flavors. The acidity gives a lift wines considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. while the ripe feel of the wine gives it a broader base. ABOUT THE SCORES Castell 2007 Reitsteig Spätburgunder Touches of toast add further complexity. Imported by Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular wine. 82 (Franken); $76. A meaty, mushroomy Pinot North Berkeley Imports. —R.V. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompany- Noir, this rather expensive bottling from Franken offers ing tasting note to learn about a wine’s special characteristics. Château Fourcas Dupré 2007 Listrac- decent complexity but lacks vibrancy. Imported by Val- Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. ckenberg International, Inc. —J.C. 88 Médoc; $NA. A little rough around the edges, Superb 94–97: A great achievement. this wine still has some attractive black berry and dam- Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Castell 2008 Casteller Reitsteig Spätbur- son flavors and shows acidity and a texture of dry tan- Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. gunder Trocken (Franken); $76. Slightly nins. For medium-term aging. Imported by Château Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; 81 often good value. feral, with baked fruit notes alongside hints of coffee Fourcas-Dupré. —R.V. Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- grounds. Disappointing; lacks freshness. Imported by critical circumstances. Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C. Château Magnol 2008 Haut-Médoc; $20. Wines receiving a rating below 80 are not reviewed. 88 From Barton & Guestier’s own chateau, the wine is a well-balanced spice- and berry fruit-flavored SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS wine. Its tannins fit with the fresh 2008 acidity and Editors’ Choice wines are those that offer excellent quality BORDEAUX REDS at a price above our Best Buy range, or a wine at any price with lively, fruity character. Age for 2–3 years. Imported by unique qualities that merit special attention. MÉDOC Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. Cellar Selections are wines deemed highly collectible and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled Château Moulin de la Rose 2008 Saint- Château Ségur de Cabanac 2008 Saint- to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designa- Julien; $70. For full review see page 4. Cellar Estèphe; $65. Projecting firm tannins, this tion does not mean that a wine must be stored to be enjoyed, 92 88 but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bot- Selection. wine has a big, powerful structure: black plum skins, tle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. chewy currants and smoky wood flavors. It’s still young; Best Buys are wines that offer a high level of quality in rela- Château Béhèré Courtin 2008 Pauillac; keep it for six years. Imported by Serge Doré Selec- tion to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for $68. For full review see page 5. Cellar Selec- tions. —R.V. determining Best Buys, but they are generally priced at $15 or 91 less. tion. Château Fourcas-Hosten 2003 Listrac- SUBMITTING WINES FOR REVIEW Château Fourcas-Hosten 2005 Listrac- 87 Médoc; $25. The hot, overweight 2003 vintage Wines should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing loca- Médoc; $25. tion as detailed in our FAQ, available online via 91 Still young, with its dry tannins, has not been kind to this licorice- and dark chocolate- winemag.com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to Tast- this is a wine that has developed depth and concentra- flavored wine. It is dry, firm, while still garishly rich. If ing Coordinator Anna Lee C. Iijima at 914.345.9463 or email tion over the last 3-4 years. It has power, the berry fruits you have it, drink it now. Imported by Joanne Bordeaux [email protected]. There is no charge for sub- driving through the structure to give a layered, attrac- USA. —R.V. mitting wines. We make every effort to taste all wines submit- tive, serious finish. Imported by Wineberry America ted for review, but there is no guarantee that all wines Château Graves de Pez 2009 Saint- submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. magazine. All wines must be accompanied by a submission 87 Estèphe; $45. From a tiny, seven-acre prop- form, which may be downloaded from our Web site. Château la Tour de Bessan 2008 Margaux; erty in Saint-Estèphe, this is a Cabernet LABELS $40. 91 From one of the properties controlled by Sauvignon-dominated wine with black currant fruit and Labels are paid promotions. Wineries and winery Marie-Laure Lurton, this is a finely made wine. It rev- good, firm fruit tannins. There is a smoky wood ele- representatives are given the opportunity to submit labels, els in its structure, while around that there are ripe, ment to balance the lively, youthful acidity. Imported by which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and soft red berry fruits, spice and an intensely juicy acidity. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Full of charm, ready to age. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax 866.896.8786; or email [email protected]. Château Grand Tayac 2008 Margaux; $55. Château du Plessis 2008 Moulis-en-Médoc; 86 From the north of the Margaux appellation, this Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at 90 $NA. Dense, slick and smooth, this is an is a wine that has tense, acidic, black berry fruits, soft buyingguide.winemag.com

WineMag.com | 13 BUYING I GUIDE tannins and a light, juicy character. Not for long-term There is structure, obvious aging potential as well as rant along with a light, dry smoky and tannic character. aging. Imported by Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. ripe, sweet juicy Merlot fruit flavors. Age for 5–6 years. Imported by Saranty Imports. —R.V. Imported by Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. Barton & Guestier 2007 Thomas Barton Château de Laville 2006 Premieres Côtes 85 Réserve (Margaux); $30. A wine that offers Château 2006 Prima (Premieres 86 de Bordeaux; $NA. Black currant and stalky plenty of the charm of Margaux, with its soft tannins, 89 Côtes de Bordeaux); $NA. A dark-colored tannins, along with acidity, mark this attractive Bor- layers of chocolate, smooth texture and juicy fruit. The wine, smoky and toasty, perhaps too much. It has deaux. It is dry, with some mineral austerity, lightly wood at this stage is prominent, and needs to settle weight, with shafts of fruit coming through the wood woody. The fruit is now mature. —R.V. down. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. dryness. The main wine of the château is better bal- anced than this special cuvée. Imported by Bordeaux Château Bertinerie 2008 Merlot-Cabernet Barton & Guestier 2008 Les Charmes de Wine Locators. —R.V. 85 (Côtes de Bordeaux); $NA. A wine that is 85 Magnol (Médoc); $12. Confusingly, the wine firmly tannic, solid, chunky and dry with red fruits has no connection with Château Magnol, also owned by Château Grand Maison 2008 Cuvée Spé- buried behind the foursquare facade. Fruit flavors and Barton & Guestier. It’s a soft Médoc wine, light and 89 ciale (Côtes de Bourg); $NA. Smoky, rich acidity come through more strongly at the end. gentle in character, the tannins soft, merging with the wine, with the wood element present but not domi- Imported by Pierre Courdurie Selections. —R.V. red berry fruits. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA. nant. Black plum and sweet damson fruitiness sur- —R.V. rounds soft tannins and balanced acidity. Imported by Château Grand Maison 2008 Côtes de Pierre Courdurie Selections. —R.V. 85 Bourg; $NA. A dry, firm wine, with light fruits Barton & Guestier 2008 Médoc; $12. Tight and a perfumed smoky character. It is developing in a 85 wine, its black currant flavors layered with dry Château Haut Bertinerie 2008 Côtes de dry, black currant, stalky style. Imported by Pierre tannins. It’s finely structured, although the stalky ele- 89 Bordeaux; $NA. Haut-Bertinerie is part of the Courdurie Selections. —R.V. ment tends to dominate. Not for aging. Imported by Bertinerie estate in Blaye, producing wines that show Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. good depth of flavor. This 2008 adds richness, spice and Château Pimpine 2005 Bordeaux Côtes de dark tannins to the mix, giving powerful berry fruits, Francs; $NA. A curious, dirty nose doesn’t help Barton & Guestier 2008 Thomas Barton 85 an edge of wood and fine acidity. Imported by Pierre this wine. The palate is certainly better, its fruit now Réserve (Médoc); $12. 85 Smooth, open, fruity Courdurie Selections. —R.V. mature, smooth, the acidity blending with attractive wine, with good black berry flavors, rounded by wood. smoky flavors. Imported by USA Wine Imports. —R.V. The tannins offer a bite to go with the acidity. Age for a Château Hyot 2009 Côtes de Bordeaux; $19. year. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. 89 A wine that shows its wood aging strongly Château Bertinerie 2007 Cru Réserve at this young stage. However, there is plenty of ripe (Côtes de Bordeaux); $NA. Tight and dry, a blackberry flavor to boost the fruity side of the wine. 84 wine that is on the lean side. It has some black currant RIGHT BANK The core is dry, surrounded by ripe fruits and a touch of fruits, some smokiness, its tannins light. Drink now. sweetness. Imported by Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. Imported by Pierre Courdurie Selections. —R.V. Château Grand Corbin 2008 Saint-Emilion; $NA. A perfumed wine, balancing ripe fruit Château Tertre de Viaud 2009 Côtes de 91 Château de l’Orangerie 2007 Grand Clas- with some firm, young tannins. That makes this a very Bourg; $20. For full review see page 6. 89 sique (Premieres Côtes de Bordeaux); dry wine at this stage, needing time to develop. At pres- 83 $NA. Tobacco aromas and tight tannins set the scene ent, the black currant fruit fits with a powerful core of Château de Fontenay 2005 Côtes de for a wine that is light and fresh, with tangy berry fruits. dryness. Give it 4–6 years. Imported by Pierre Cour- Castillon; $NA. A ripe, smoky wine, full of 88 Imported by Global Wine Connections. —R.V. durie Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V. sweet black currant fruits and stalky tannins. The wine is juicy, fruity, cut with acidity and with a dry core of Château du Vallier 2004 (Premieres Côtes Château Jean-Faure 2006 Saint-Emilion; tight tannins. It shows the beginnings of maturity. de Bordeaux); $25. 91 $NA. A serious, complex wine, its tannins and Imported by Cutting Edge Selections. —R.V. 83 Definitely on a downward full fruit still young and headstrong. There is power slope, this wine is very dry, the fruit gone and replaced here, spice wood adding to the black cherry fruit and Barton & Guestier 2009 Saint-Emilion; $15. by tannins. Drink now. Imported by North American complex acidity. For aging. Imported by North Berke- 87 A rich, smoky wine, full of bitter chocolate fla- Beverage Group. —R.V. ley Imports. —R.V. vors as well as plum jam. The tannins give structure to this well-balanced wine, which will age over the next Château la Croix de St-Georges 2008 Château Tour de Lagarde 2008 Saint-Emil- 1–2 years. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. 82 Saint-Georges-Saint-Emilion; $NA. Tight, 91 ion; $32. Wood integrates well with firm tan- lean, severe, this wine only has a hint of fruit. It is firm, nins in this delicious, ripe and juicy-fruity wine that Barton & Guestier 2007 Thomas Barton on the thin side, not a pleasure. Imported by Saranty boasts attractive . There is density and con- 87 Réserve (Saint-Emilion); $15. With good Imports. —R.V. centration, a dry edge and ripe acidity. For aging. density, this is a success for the vintage. It has ripe, Imported by Serge Doré Selections. Cellar Selection. smooth fruit, flavors of black berry, the tannins well —R.V. integrated. Age for a year. Imported by Barton & OTHER RED BORDEAUX Guestier USA. —R.V. Château Carignan 2006 Premieres Côtes Château Brown 2007 Pessac-Léognan; 90 de Bordeaux; $24. Always one of the leaders Château Haut Ballet 2007 Fronsac; $NA. A 89 $NA. Tasted from magnum, the wine shows in the Premières Côtes, Château Carignan has pro- 87 full, spicy wine, with weight from wood and youthful vigor, layers of wood and dark berry flavors. It duced a ripely juicy 2006. It is a wine that brings con- attractive fruits. There is a touch of stalkiness here, a has the relative lightness of 2007, with a tight edge that siderable weight, the dark fruits melding into tannins. It sign of the vintage, but the wine is maturing well in a needs to smooth out. Give the wine in a 750ml bottle should age well over the next 5–6 years. Imported by food-friendly way. Imported by North Berkeley another 5–6 years, a magnum up to 10 years. —R.V. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. Imports. —R.V. Château Sainte Barbe 2008 Bordeaux; $17. Vieux Château des Templiers 2008 Château Tour Canon 2008 Canon-Fronsac; 87 With its strong wood aromas, this is a wine that 90 Pomerol; $56. This big, fruity black-colored 87 $NA. Merlot-dominated wine, structured while seems to have spent too much time in barrel. The wine has ripe stone fruit flavors and firm, ripe tannins. also ripe. The fruit flavors reveal prune and black cur- weight of black fruits does give it a chance to balance

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 out. Keep for 2–3 years. Imported by Pierre Courdurie edging on stalky, its black berry flavors mixed with acid- complexity of previous . Honey, peach and Selections. —R.V. ity and dry tannins. Imported by Pierre Courdurie pineapple flavors offer fruitiness. Imported by Barton Selections. —R.V. & Guestier USA. —R.V. Abbaye de Saint-Ferme 2006 Les Vignes 86 du Soir (Bordeaux Supérieur); $NA. Rich Bordeaux, with concentrated blackberry fruits and dry BORDEAUX WHITES REDS tannins. There is a dry core and intense acidity. The wine is ready to drink, but could mature for 1–2 years. DRY WHITES CHINON Imported by Acadia Imports. —R.V. Château Haut Bertinerie 2009 Côtes de Bernard Baudry 2008 La Croix Boisée (Chi- Château de Fontenille 2008 Bordeaux; 90 Bordeaux; $NA. Wood-aged wine that brings 94 non); $NA. With a touch of initial mineral aus- 86 $12. Attractively fruity, with plenty of red berry out layers of toast over the ripe peach and grapefruit terity, this still-young wine offers tannins and a solid and black cherry flavors. Along with the fruit, the tan- fruit flavors. It is rich, full-in-the-mouth, spice and fruit structure as well as black cherry and dark plum fruits. nins and spice round out the texture, giving a final vel- given a good lift from acidity. Imported by Pierre Cour- Beautifully balanced, it will develop slowly, leaving its vet feel. Imported by Pierre Courdurie Selections. durie Selections. —R.V. minerality and rounding out. Imported by Kermit —R.V. Lynch Wine Merchant. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Château Bertinerie 2008 Cru Réserve Château les Reuilles 2005 Bordeaux; $NA. 88 (Côtes de Bordeaux); $NA. Still very herba- Charles Joguet 2009 Clos de la Dioterie 85 An attractive, ripe wine with acidity and black ceous, this Sauvignon Blanc-dominated wine is ripe, 93 (Chinon); $NA. A beautiful wine, from a cool currant fruits. This is a medium-bodied Bordeaux, the full of melon and peach flavors, with an attractive zesty northeast-facing vineyard, this is rich, ripe and smoothly dry core ripened with a rounded, soft texture. Imported character. There’s enough structure for 2–3 years’ aging. concentrated. It has ripeness, power, while retaining by Regal Wine Imports Inc. —R.V. Imported by Pierre Courdurie Selections. —R.V. elegance. Expect to age this for six and more years. Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. Cellar Château Monroze 2008 Bordeaux Barton & Guestier 2010 Thomas Barton Selection. —R.V. 85 Supérieur; $NA. A soft, open wine, kept 87 Réserve (Graves); $15. With its layers of together by its dry tannins. Good black fruits, fresh wood, the wine has weight. Herbaceous characters are Bernard Baudry 2009 Les Grézeaux (Chi- acidity and an attractive smoky character. Imported by mixed with ripe pear flavors. There is a good, tight final 92 non); $NA. Old vines, at least 60 years old, are Saranty Imports. —R.V. texture. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. the basis for this soft, wood-aged wine. The texture is smooth, with rounded tannins and density. Flavors Château Roc de Minvielle 2009 Bordeaux; Château Bonnet 2008 Bordeaux Blanc; include licorice, bittersweet chocolate and black cher- 85 $NA. Ample Bordeaux, with the tannins soft- 87 $NA. A crisp, clean, fruity wine, tangy and ries. Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. ened and rounded. Flavors are of black plums, with lemony. This is a really attractive wine, a classic of its some stalkiness and light acidity. Drink soon —R.V. kind. Screwcap. Imported by W.J. Deutsch & Sons. Charles Joguet 2009 Clos du Chêne Vert —R.V. 92 (Chinon); $NA. This is firmly, tannic, the prod- Château Saint-Michel 2008 Bordeaux uct of oak cask fermentation as well as aging. The tan- 85 Supérieur; $18. Close to Fronsac, this is a Château Sainte Marie 2009 Vieilles Vignes nins promise long aging, while the ripe black jelly fruit Merlot-dominated wine that has soft, ripe fruit. It 87 (Entre-Deux-Mers); $NA. A lightly perfumed character brings out the richness of the vintage. shows sweetness and open berry flavors touched by white Bordeaux, with warm ripe fruit, soft acidity an Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. chocolate and licorice. To be opened over the next an herbaceous edge. Grapefruit and gooseberry flavors 2–3 years. Imported by Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. are laced with a more honeyed character. Imported by Charles Joguet 2009 Les Varennes du Vanguard Wines. —R.V. 91 Grand Clos (Chinon); $NA. This is a lovely, Barton & Guestier 2008 Bordeaux; $10. ripe wine, its plum character very evident. It has a cool 84 This wood-laden wine has light berry fruit and Château Bertinerie 2009 Sauvignon Blanc character as well, the acidity pushing through. Aged in burnt toast flavors. The acidity cuts through, offering a 86 (Côtes de Bordeaux); $NA. Lightly herba- wood (not new), the wine has a polished feel on the fin- glimpse of stalky black currant flavors. Imported by ceous, this is a soft, open, easy wine for summer drink- ish. Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. ing. Attractive grapefruit, green apple and orange zest mix easily together. Imported by Pierre Courdurie Bernard Baudry 2009 Le Clos Guillot (Chi- Château Bellevue 2009 Bordeaux; $NA. On Selections. —R.V. 90 non); $NA. A softly rounded wine, its red berry 84 the lean side for a 2009 Bordeaux, this brings fruits well integrated into the ripe tannins. It is fruity, out a dry, tannic character, just softened with sweet Barton & Guestier 2009 Bordeaux Blanc; very forward, reveling in its rich charms. Imported by black currant juice. There is stalky acidity on the finish. 84 $10. Fresh as well as ripe, with layers of toast, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. Imported by Saranty Imports. —R.V. creamy pear and red apple flavors. Attractively spicy, ready to drink. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA. Charles Joguet 2009 Les Charmes (Chi- Château Denisiane 2009 Bordeaux; $16. —R.V. 90 non); $NA. A new cuvée (this is the second 84 Soft, light fruit, packed with red cherries and vintage) from Domaine Charles Joguet, the wine has fresh berries, is the star. The tannins are a mere hint, so tannins as well as a strongly mineral character. The the wine should be enjoyed soon for its attractive juici- SWEET WHITES structure is tight, needing aging. Imported by Kermit ness. Imported by Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. Barton & Guestier 2008 Sauternes; $25. Château la Fontaine de Genin 2009 Bor- 85 Ripe botrytis, honey and peaches make for an Bernard Baudry 2009 Cuvée Domaine 84 deaux; $NA. Stalky, dry, with attractive black attractive, open, ready-to-drink sweet wine. The acidity 89 (Chinon); $NA. There are tight tannins to go currant fruits and a light tannin character. Showing little keeps the richness in check. Imported by Barton & with the fresh acidity in this very mineral wine. Rasp- sign of its potential richness. —R.V. Guestier USA. —R.V. berry and red cherry fruits combine with a smoky note. Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. Château Sainte Barbe 2008 Merlot (Bor- Barton & Guestier 2009 Thomas Barton 84 deaux); $13. Berry fruits and dense red jelly 84 Réserve (Sauternes); $25. The wine is still Charles Joguet 2009 Cuvée de la Cure flavors are the hallmark of this wine. It is full, although very young, revealing sweetness rather than the botrytis 89 (Chinon); $NA. Smooth fruit, the tannins soft-

WineMag.com | 15 BUYING I GUIDE ened by wood aging. That gives some richness as well Charles Joguet 2010 Rosé (Chinon); $NA. honey. Full in the mouth, intense and concentrated. as a chunky, ripe character of red plums, licorice and 86 Enticing acidity, with fresh raspberry fruit, bright Imported by Rare Wine Company. —R.V. final acidity. Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Mer- in style, just touched by dried sultanas. Drink now. chant. —R.V. Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. Domaine Huët 2010 Le Mont Sec (Vou- 94 vray); $30. Very pure in character, a wine that Bernard Baudry 2009 Les Granges (Chi- Fournier Père et Fils 2006 Les Belles expresses the chalk . Minerality and complexities 88 non); $NA. The wine has good acidity, with 86 Vignes (Sancerre); $26. An attractive, soft of bright acidity, flavors of pear juice and grapefruit fresh strawberry fruits and attractive, light tannins. For wine, with a chewy, juicy character. It shows red fruits, presage a final hint of honey. Imported by Rare Wine early drinking. Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Mer- a touch of licorice and acidity. The wine is now mature. Company. —R.V. chant. —R.V. Drink this year. Imported by David Milligan Selections. —R.V. Domaine Huët 2010 Clos du Bourg Demi- Charles Joguet 2009 Les Petites Roches Sec (Vouvray); $35. A tightly delineated wine, Barton & Guestier 2009 Rosé d’Anjou; $10. 93 87 (Chinon); $NA. Structured wine, made from ripe, but with a great swathe of tangy balancing acidity. Soft, sweet rosé, with a caramel and sugared young vines, with minerality as well as intense fruit fla- 82 The structure shows the immense possibility of aging in strawberry character. A light wine for those who want vors. Firm tannins underlie red plum fruitiness. a wine that is not yet getting into its stride. Imported by less alcohol than is found in a white Zinfandel. Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. Rare Wine Company. —R.V. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. Charles Joguet 2009 Cuvée Terroir (Chi- Domaine Huët 2010 Clos du Bourg Sec 85 non); $NA. Attractive, fruity wine, with good LOIRE VALLEY WHITES 93 (Vouvray); $30. A wine with a very mineral tannins as well as stalky black currant fruit flavors. Its character, some weight, very lively acidity, rounded out ripeness is a sign of the warm vintage. Imported by VOUVRAY with spice and pear. This is for long-term aging, over Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. five years and more. Imported by Rare Wine Company. Domaine Huët 2009 Cuvée Constance —R.V. 99 (Vouvray); $159/500 ml. Even more concen- SAUMUR-CHAMPIGNY trated than Huët’s superb 2009 Première Trie, this is Domaine Huët 2010 Le Haut-Lieu Sec outstanding. It has both great concentration and ele- 92 (Vouvray); $28. Classic. Beautiful acidity is Château du Hureau 2009 A Chaux gance. The wine is touched by botrytis, while retaining balanced by just a touch of sweetness. The wine is 90 (Saumur-Champigny); $NA. Ripeness, black freshness. Made from ripe, just shrivelling grapes, this bright with apple and lime flavors. Imported by Rare currant jelly flavors and spice mark this concentrated is sweet Vouvray at its magnificent best. Imported by Wine Company. —R.V. wine, which has a smoky character on the finish. Rare Wine Company. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Imported by Polaner Selections. —R.V. Domaine Huët 2005 Pétillant (Vouvray); Domaine Huët 2010 Le Mont Première Trie 88 $30. A fine, clean and intense sparkling wine, Domaine des Roches Neuves 2010 97 Moelleux (Vouvray); $69. This will be a won- with excellent acidity and bright lemon and apple notes 90 (Saumur-Champigny); $18. Obviously young, derful wine. Already, it is fine, with lovely acidity, bright Imported by Rare Wine Company. —R.V. but with good acidity as well as bright red fruit flavors. and richly sweet at the same time. Yellow fruits mingle The wine’s acidity balances the juicy fruits well. Its with honey, pear, almonds and the intense sweetness Barton & Guestier 2009 Vouvray; $10. structure suggests a good few years’ aging. Imported of botrytis. Imported by Rare Wine Company. Cellar 84 Medium-sweet wine, the acidity of the Chenin by VOS Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Selection. —R.V. Blanc balanced by a floral, aromatic character. Sweet nuts, ripe pear and a taste of orange zest supply the fruit Domaine Filliatreau 2008 Vieilles Vignes Domaine Huët 2009 Clos du Bourg Pre- interest. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. 89 (Saumur-Champigny); $NA. Shows smooth 97 mière Trie Moelleux (Vouvray); $69. A fruit, with the acidity finely molded into a structure of majestic, magisterial wine, powered by superripe fruit juicy black berry fruits. There is zesty, spicy acidity on the as well as honey and a gorgeous ripeness. With years SAVENNIÈRES finish. Imported by Louis Dressner Selections. —R.V. ahead of it, this will be superb. Imported by Rare Wine Company. —R.V. Domaine aux Moines 2009 Savennières- Château de Villeneuve 2009 Saumur- Roche-Aux-Moines; $NA. Nutty in style, this Domaine Huët 2006 Clos du Bourg Pre- 93 Champigny; $NA. Tight acidity layers a wine classic wine shows the true intensity of dry Chenin 87 mière Trie Moelleux (Vouvray); $75. Pre- that has freshness and a stalky character. Flavors of cur- 95 Blanc. It’s a wine with weight, concentration, toast, mière Trie means a wine from the first selection of rants and acidity highlight its light fruitiness. Imported spice and an overpowering lemon and honey charac- grapes during harvest. This wine, now firmly closed up, by Vintner Select. —R.V. ter. For long-term aging. Imported by - as is expected with , is headed towards an Lehmann. —R.V. OTHER LOIRE REDS/ROSÉS opulent future, even though the fruit is kept firmly in check by the long-term aging potential. Imported by Domaine des Baumard 2007 Clos du Papil- Rare Wine Company. —R.V. Fournier Père et Fils 2009 Les Belles 93 lon (Savennières); $NA. A very spicy wine, 88 Vignes Rosé (Sancerre); $26. The crispness Domaine Huët 2009 Clos du Bourg layering honey and lychees. Opulent, ripe, wearing its and acidity are very evident in this bright, fresh, straw- 95 Moelleux (Vouvray); $49. A wine that just richness on its sleeve. Probably for medium-term aging, berry-flavored wine. Drink soon for its delicious liveli- hints at its enormous future. It is opulent, rich, but it could well surprise. Screwcap. Imported by Vin- ness. Imported by David Milligan Selections. —R.V. rounded, full of quince, spice, layers of honey and apri- tus LLC. —R.V. cots. It is gorgeous without losing any freshness. Keep Xavier Flouret 2008 Rouge Noir (Menetou- for seven years. Imported by Rare Wine Company. Cel- Château d’Epire 2009 Cuvée Spéciale 88 Salon); $23. Domaine de Chatenoy, in the lar Selection. —R.V. 92 (Savennières); $NA. A wine that combines the same family for 15 generations, has produced this rich, richness of the vintage with the extreme flinty texture of full-flavored wine, packed with sweet strawberry and Domaine Huët 2008 Le Haut-Lieu Demi- young, dry Chenin Blanc. Packed with ripe acidity, it is smooth tannins. It could age, but is ready to drink now. 94 Sec (Vouvray); $35. Exuberant wine, almost pure, very crisp, yet for aging. Imported by Kermit Imported by Cognac One, LLC. —R.V. exotic in its flavors, with ripe currant and a lining of Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V.

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 Domaine des Baumard 2006 Clos de Saint- Henri Bourgeois 2008 Sancerre d’Antan delicious. Imported by David Milligan Selections. Edi- 92 Yves (Savennières); $NA. A wine of great 93 (Sancerre); $NA. Unfined, unfiltered, wood tors’ Choice. —R.V. style and elegance, delivering spice and creaminess as aged, this wine was created as a tribute to old-style well as ripe quince and pear fruit. Almond flavors signal Sancerre. With its intensity and definite wood aging that the wine is approaching maturity. Screwcap. character, it is certainly different. It retains the green MUSCADET Imported by Vintus LLC. —R.V. fruit character of pure Sauvignon Blanc while offering a more oxidative richness. Imported by Ideal Wine and Château du Coing de Saint-Fiacre 2005 Domaine des Baumard 2007 Clos de Saint- Spirits Co. Inc. —R.V. 91 Comte de Saint-Hubert Sur Lie (Muscadet 91 Yves (Savennières); $NA. A finely crafted Sèvre et Maine); $NA. With attractive maturity, wine, its tight acidity generating a very fresh profile. Henri Bourgeois 2008 La Bourgeoise touches of lemon, pear and pink grapefruit and a ripe There is an intensity of fruit as well as a mineral texture. 92 (Sancerre); $NA. Made from old vines and finish, this wine proves the aging potential of top Mus- For aging. Screwcap Imported by Vintus LLC. —R.V. partially fermented in wood, this is a complex wine, cadet. Imported by Williams Corner Wine. —R.V. offering plenty of pure white fruits. It is very precise in Château de Varennes 2007 Savennières; character, crisp, tangy, the edge of wood just a hint. Gadais Père et Fils 2009 Vieilles Vignes Sur 89 $NA. A concentrated wine, its pear and lemon Imported by Ideal Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. —R.V. 90 Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine); $NA. Con- character segueing into a tight, wound-up structure, centrated and very full in the mouth, the wine’s acidity very dry, very crisp. Imported by 57 Main Street Wine Henri Bourgeois 2009 Les Baronnes is tight, wrapped around lemon and grapefruit charac- Co. —R.V. 89 (Sancerre); $NA. A pure mineral wine, ters. Good depth of flavor in this intense wine. extremely fresh and bright with acidity, all the way to the Imported by Robert Chadderdon Selections. —R.V. finish. It’s packed with herbs and gooseberry fruit fla- OTHER LOIRE CHENINS vors. Imported by Ideal Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. —R.V. Château du Coing de Saint-Fiacre 2008 Sur 89 Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine); $NA. With Domaine des Baumard 2008 Quarts de Fournier Père et Fils 2009 Les Belles its fine concentration and light acidity, this scores with 95 Chaume; $NA. With so much intensity, botry- 88 Vignes (Sancerre); $26. Soft and ripe, the its lovely apple fruit, touched with grapefruit. Very tis and concentration, this is going to be impressive. It is normal herbaceous character rounded out with pear fresh, ready to drink. Imported by Williams Corner still very young, at a closed stage, but the ripe currant as and peach fruits. Sure, there is a tang, a kick to the Wine. —R.V. well as the honey dominate. Great wine. Imported by wine, with acidity. But it is the ripeness that dominates. Vintus LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Imported by David Milligan Selections. —R.V. Gadais Père et Fils 2009 La Grande 88 Réserve du Moulin Sur Lie (Muscadet Domaine des Baumard 2009 Carte d’Or Sèvre et Maine); $NA. This has some weight as well 92 (Coteaux du Layon); $NA. A wine that con- POUILLY-FUMÉ as acidity, showing just a touch of prickle on the tongue. trasts extreme sweetness with freshness. It has beautiful Zesty and tangy. Imported by Robert Chadderdon acidity as well as a great swathe of sweet peach and Guy Saget 2009 Le Domaine Saget Selections. —R.V. orange laced with honeyed cream. Imported by Vintus 92 (Pouilly-Fumé); $35. Perfumed, rounded LLC. —R.V. wine, packed with fruit, its ripe flavor given point with Château du Coing de Saint-Fiacre 2009 kiwi fruit acidity. There is a light spiciness that adds to 86 Coing de Sèvre Sur Lie (Muscadet Sèvre Domaine des Baumard 2008 Clos de the complexity. Age for 3-4 years. Imported by Paster- et Maine); $NA. An intensely fresh wine, touched 91 Sainte-Catherine (Coteaux du Layon); $NA. nak Wine Imports. —R.V. lightly by spritz that brings out the lemon character. So much freshness here to go with the sweetness, a wine The acidity lifts the whole wine deliciously Imported by of delicious intensity further enlivened by apple and Henri Bourgeois 2009 La Demoiselle de Williams Corner Wine. —R.V. cream acidity. Imported by Vintus LLC. —R.V. 92 Bourgeois (Pouilly-Fumé); $NA. Rich style of wine, its lime and mineral character enveloped by Gadais Père et Fils 2010 Emotions (Mus- Domaine des Baumard 2006 La Calèche the ripe peach flavors. It’s a beautiful wine, forward and 86 cadet); $NA. Bright young wine, with an 85 Chenin Blanc-Chardonnay (Vin de Pays du ready to drink over the next year. Imported by Ideal attractive lemon character, very fresh and crisp. Simple Jardin de la France); $NA. With its few years’ aging, Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. —R.V. Muscadet for the summer. Imported by Robert Chad- the wine exhibits a Chenin Blanc nutty quality backed derdon Selections. —R.V. by the greater weight of Chardonnay. Full-bodied, ready Fournier Père et Fils 2009 Les Deux Cail- to drink. Screwcap. Imported by Vintus LLC. —R.V. 90 loux (Pouilly-Fumé); $27. Cailloux means Guy Saget 2009 Les Clissages d’Or (Mus- flinty stone, and this wine certainly has a mineral char- 86 cadet Sèvre et Maine); $16. With an extra acter, its fruit tang still young. It has a tight structure, richness from the vintage, this is a ripe, if still crisp SANCERRE crisp, herbal and concentrated. Imported by David Mil- wine. Its grapefruit acidity is tempered by ripe apple ligan Selections. —R.V. and melon flavors. Imported by Pasternak Wine Henri Bourgeois 2008 Jadis (Sancerre); Imports. —R.V. 94 $NA. Very rich style of wine from 50-year-old Henri Bourgeois 2009 En Travertin vines. It is smooth, opulent almost, packed with pure 89 (Pouilly-Fumé); $NA. Very intense herbal pink grapefruit along with an herbal, grassy character. wine, full-bodied, with hints of mineral and a very for- LOIRE SPARKLING WINES Concentration is the hallmark of this fine wine. ward grapefruit and lime fruit character. Imported by Imported by Ideal Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. Cellar Ideal Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. —R.V. Domaine des Baumard 2006 Tirage (Cré- Selection. —R.V. 91 mant de Loire); $NA. A deliciously crisp wine, its fruit packed with citrus and lemon peel, a style that Henri Bourgeois 2009 Le M.D. de Bour- OTHER LOIRE is as fresh as possible. As well as its soft, creamy 93 geois (Sancerre); $NA. This is great Sancerre SAUVIGNON BLANC mousse, this wine has depth of flavor and potential from the Monts Damnés vineyard. It shows all the right aging ability. Imported by Vintus LLC. —R.V. varietal character, stylized by initial austerity, flint and a Fournier Père et Fils 2009 Côtes de dense texture. Gradually it opens up to show a balance 90 Morogues (Menetou-Salon); $22. Particu- Domaine des Baumard NV Brut Rosé (Cré- of acidity and richness. Imported by Ideal Wine and larly intense on the herbaceous front, the wine shows 89 mant de Loire); $NA. Made only from free- Spirits Co. Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. rich grapefruit and lemon zest flavors. Long, deep and run juice, this is a light, intensely fresh style of rosé. It

WineMag.com | 17 BUYING I GUIDE just hints at the raspberry, red berry and green apple Lionel Osmin & Cie 2009 Villa Beaurivage flavors. Imported by Vintus LLC. —R.V. ROSÉS 85 (Vin de France); $9. A blend of typical Gascon grapes gives a lemon and citrus wine, very fresh, tangy. Domaine des Baumard NV Carte Turquoise Domaine de Granajolo 2009 Rosé (Corse There is plenty of acidity and an attractive lightness. 86 (Crémant de Loire); $NA. This is Baumard’s 85 Porto Vecchio); $NA. Fresh and soft, with Screwcap. Imported by Pierre Courdurie Selections. entry-level sparkling wine, with ripe, soft fruit, a creamy bright strawberry flavors and a delicious texture of red Best Buy. —R.V. texture with some attractive weight and flavors of currants. Lively acidity gives the wine a great send-off. apples and pears. Imported by Vintus LLC. —R.V. Imported by Bourgeois Family Selections. —R.V. Pierre Boniface 2009 Les Rocailles (Apre- 85 mont); $NA. Just touched by honey and with a Barton & Guestier 2009 Rosé (Côtes de light spritz, this is a crisp, lemon and lime zest-flavored OTHER FRANCE 83 Provence); $10. With some richness, this is a wine. It has great acidity with a yeasty character. drink-now rosé. The initial fresh fruit has diminished, Imported by Hand Picked Selections. —R.V. REDS leaving a rounded, caramel-flavored wine without acid- ity. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. Barton & Guestier 2009 Chardonnay Producteurs Plaimont 2007 Château Saint- 84 (Mâcon-Villages); $10. Soft, lightly creamy 89 Go (Saint-Mont); $NA. Attractively powerful Chardonnay, pleasantly fruity, offering some apple and wine, its tannins buried within dense berry fruits. There WHITES pear flavors along with gentle acidity. Imported by Bar- is a positive rough edge to the wine, the stalky fruit ton & Guestier USA. —R.V. character smoothed by wood. Made in the cellars of Domaine des Baumard NV Vert de l’Or the château by the Producteurs Plaimont winemaking 93 Verdelho (Vin de France); $NA. A small par- team. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —R.V. cel of Verdelho, planted originally in the 19th century SPARKLING WINES and never officially recognized. The wine has a beauti- Barton & Guestier 2009 Beaujolais-Vil- Barton & Guestier NV Cuvée Réservée ful botrytis character, marked by pure acidity, lemon lages; $10. Brut Chardonnay (Vin Mousseux); $10. 86 With firm tannins, rich berry fruits and honey and great final freshness. Screwcap. 85 An and more typical red cherry flavors, this has weight and Imported by Vintus LLC. —R.V. attractive wine. The Chardonnay is fresh, lightly min- a ripe juicy core. It’s ready to drink, but could be kept eral, with flavors of red apples, lemon zest and crisp for another year. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA. Barton & Guestier 2009 Pouilly-Fuissé; acidity. A great party wine. Imported by Barton & Best Buy. —R.V. Guestier USA. —R.V. 86 $20. With a hint of minerality, this wine has structure to go with its soft, generous fruit. There are Lionel Osmin & Cie 2009 Cuvée la Réserve Barton & Guestier NV Cuvée Réservée almonds, toast, peaches and an attractive rounded tex- (Vin de France); $NA. Very fruity Rosé (Vin Mousseux); $10. Gentle, creamy, 85 ture. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. 83 aromas, powered by black berry fruits. The palate is raspberry-flavored wine, its fruit ripe and easy. There is soft, ripe and fruity with black fruits and sweet tannins. Barton & Guestier 2010 Réserve Sauvi- freshness as well as clean acidity, along with some sweet- The wine is supple, accessible. Screwcap. Imported by ness. Imported by Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. gnon Blanc (Cotes de Gascogne); $8. For Pierre Courdurie Selections. —R.V. 86 full review see page 9. Best Buy. Barton & Guestier 2009 Beaujolais; $10. Domaine de Ballade 2009 Sauvignon GREEK REDS Light red cherry-flavored wine from a fine year 84 Blanc-Colombard (Vin de Pays des Côtes for Beaujolais. The wine is all juicy fruit, rounded tan- 86 BLENDED REDS de Gascogne); $11. For full review see page 9. Best nins and light, smoky acidity. Imported by Barton & Buy. Guestier USA. —R.V. Alpha Estate 2007 Alpha One (Florina); $75. This Greek red blend has an appealing, Domaine de la Feuillarde 2008 Mâcon- 89 Cédric Vincent 2006 Beaujolais; $NA. Still pretty nose of plum, blackberry and cherry, followed Prissé; $NA. 84 fresh, with bitter cherry flavors, acidity and light 86 A ripe, buttery style of wine, with by deep, full-bodied black fruit and spice flavors. Good tannins. A lightweight, deliciously fresh wine. Imported yellow fruit, toast and a ripe, almost honeyed character. acidity and round tannins add to its poise. An elegant by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. The finish displays some light, zesty acidity. Imported wine that will appeal to most fans of bigger reds. by Vintner Select. —R.V. Imported by Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. Domaine de Pellehaut 2008 Harmonie de 84 Gascogne (Vin de Pays des Côtes de Domaine de Pajot 2009 Les Quatre Alpha Estate 2007 Red (Florina); $36. Black Gascogne); $NA. Lightweight red from Gascony, with 86 Cépages (Vin de Pays des Côtes de 88 cherry, vanilla and cedar on the nose of this con- a touch of tannin, red berry fruits and crisp acidity. A Gascogne); $NA. A very perfumed wine, with white fident blend are followed by refreshing, spicy flavors of red wine with an attractive bite. Imported by Heidel- flower aromas, flavors of herbs and spice. It has weight plum, blackberry, cinnamon and cedar. This wine has a berg Distribution. —R.V. as well as acidity, a tangy structured edge. Screwcap. kick to it but the fruit’s deep softness balances it out. A Imported by Vanguard Wines. —R.V. go-to red with true class. Imported by Diamond Marcel Lapierre 2009 Raisins Gaulois (Vin Importers Inc. —S.K. 84 de Table Francais); $NA. A -based Producteurs Plaimont 2010 Colombelle wine from one of the leading Morgon producers. Soft 86 (Cotes de Gascogne); $9. Fresh, crisp, herba- Evangelo 2006 Red (Epanomi); $79. Smoke, tannins, red cherry flavors and a touch of banana are ceous, and with an attractive perfumed character, this is 88 cinnamon, cherry and strawberry aromas start enlivened by fine acidity on the finish. Imported by a great value from southwest France. Acidity finishes this impressive blend with style. On the palate, cinna- Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. this fine apéritif wine. Screwcap. Imported by Wine- mon, tobacco and black cherry flavors are balanced sellers Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. with a clean acidity and a touch of sweet spice. Overall, Barton & Guestier 2009 Bistro Pinot Noir an integrated red with focus. Imported by 83 (Vin de Pays de l’Ile de Beaute); $8. Domaine de Granajolo 2009 Blanc (Corse Spiliadis. —S.K. Unoaked Pinot Noir from Corsica, showing ripe berry 85 Porto Vecchio); $NA. Spices, a hint of honey, flavors, fresh acidity and only light tannins. It’s what it a texture of pears and white plums—this is a rich, soft Skouras NV Labyrinth 9905 Megas Oenos says on the label: for casual drinking. Imported by Bar- wine with a good intensity of taste and ripeness 88 (Peloponnese); $150. Smoked sausage, red ton & Guestier USA. —R.V. Imported by Bourgeois Family Selections. —R.V. currant and spice on the nose are followed by a rustic

18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 beefy, allspice quality on the palate. Black pepper, cedar Skouras 2008 Saint George Agiorgitiko will benefit from decanting and could use some time in and smoke mingle in an overall elegant but assertive 85 (Nemea); $14. Black cherry and cinnamon on the cellar. Imported by Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. medium-bodied red. A dry finish tops it off. Imported the nose lead into spicy red berry and coca flavors. This by Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. is a clean, easy-drinking red that will pair well with Domaine Gerovassiliou 2006 Syrah lighter dishes like poultry and ham. Imported by Dia- 88 (Epanomi); $NA. This full-bodied red gives Alpha Estate 2007 Axia Syrah-Xinomavro mond Importers Inc. —S.K. sexy aromas of dark chocolate, cherry, vanilla and cedar, 87 (Florina); $20. Plum, blackberry and earthy followed by equally deep flavors of cocoa, black fruit, mushroom aromas lead here, followed by soft, balanced Skouras 2007 Grande Cuvée Agiorgitiko plum and black pepper. Smooth but sturdy, it will pair flavors of violet, plum and tobacco. Mellow and soulful, 85 (Nemea); $26. Black cherry, pepper and well with steaks, stews and earthier fare. Imported by this wine will pair well with almost any meat-based dish. smoked meat on the nose are followed by flavors of Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. Imported by Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. smoked cherry, vanilla and pepper on the palate. Focused, with a spin of minerality on the finish, this is a Estate Biblia Chora 2006 Merlot (Pan- Skouras 2007 Megas Oenos (Pelopon- versatile food wine. Imported by Diamond Importers 87 geon); $35. Chocolate-covered cherry and 87 nese); $NA. Anise, black cherry and allspice Inc. —S.K. vanilla aromas are an alluring start to this sultry Merlot. aromas give this Cabernet/Agiorgitiko blend a sultry On the palate, soft, integrated waves of black cherry, A. Parparoussis 2004 Réserve (Nemea); start. On the palate, flavors of smoke, cedar, cherry and vanilla and balsamic are followed by a clean berry fin- $50. This reserve Agiorgitiko starts with robust spice are integrated and smooth. A wine with panache 84 ish. A mellow sip with class. Imported by Cava Spiliadis. aromas of BBQ, spice and cigarbox, leading into and indigenous character. Imported by Diamond —S.K. equally masculine flavors of pipe smoke, red cherry and Importers Inc. —S.K. tea. The wine has a young quality to it, but will be tem- pered with dishes that have some weight, like lamb or Estate Biblia Chora 2005 Ovilos (Pangeon); ROSÉ WINE beef. Imported by Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. 86 $55. Rustic, with a spin of smoke, this red has a nose of green herbs, black cherry and smoke, and fla- Skouras 2010 Zoë Rosé (Peloponnese); vors of dried herb, red berry and tobacco. Masculine XINOMAVRO 84 $12. Bright strawberry and cherry aromas are and focused, it’s perfect for spicy meat dishes and stews. followed by a fruit cup of tropical fruit, cherry and strawberry. Easy-drinking but on the sweet side, this Imported by Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. Alpha Estate 2008 Hedgehog Vineyard will pair well with fruit or spicy dishes. Imported by Xinomavro (Amyndeon); $24. This cheerful 87 Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. Estate Biblia Chora 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- wine starts with a bright cherry and vanilla nose, fol- 85 gnon-Merlot (Pangeon); $35. This depend- lowed by flavors of raspberry, strawberry, vanilla and able blend offers vanilla, cedar and tobacco on the nose smoke. Integrated and easy-drinking, it’s a good go-to and sweet cigarbox, cherry and pepper flavors. Vibrant wine for everything from pizza to a more serious steak GREEK WHITES but balanced, it’s a great go-to red that will pair well with entrée. Imported by Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. BLENDED WHITES pastas, pizza, steak. Imported by Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. Alpha Estate 2007 Reserve Vieilles Vignes Estate Biblia Chora 2009 White (Pangeon); Alpha Estate 2008 Red (Florina); $36. This Xinomavro (Amyndeon); $38. A stately nose 87 $23. Zippy citrus, lemon and a touch of tropical red blend starts with aromas of cola, red berry of black cherry, cocoa powder, black pepper and vanilla 89 84 fruit on the nose and palate characterize this stylish and spice, followed by a refreshing blend of cherry, lead this impressive red from Amyndeon. On the white blend. A spin of sea salt minerality keeps the cedar and minerals. A spicy finish gives it a spirited end. palate, balanced elements of tobacco, cherry, black pep- whole package light on the tongue. A balanced, elegant Imported by Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. per and spice are both assertive and elegant. Integrated but with some power, this wine can age or be enjoyed white that will pair well with grilled fish, fruit, poultry. Imported by Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. Elios 2007 Mediterranean Red (Pelopon- now. Imported by Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. nese); $13. Tobacco, black pepper and allspice 84 Estate Biblia Chora 2009 Ovilos (Pangeon); lead this accessible red blend from Elios. On the palate, Alpha Estate 2008 Reserve Vieilles Vignes Xinomavro (Amyndeon); $38. $38. The exotic, slightly sweaty nose of this cheerful red berry and raspberry flavors are both 87 Hearty aro- 86 Sémillon-Assyrtiko blend mean it’s going to stand out, smooth and friendly, with a touch of tobacco spice to mas of tobacco, mint, strawberry and spice lead this ageable red from Alpha Estate. Slightly rustic overall and the rich, creamy tropical fruit flavors on the palate add kick. Pair with grilled lamb, pizza. Imported by but with appealing flavors of red berry, cherry, tobacco confirm it. A little heavy and slightly showy, the wine Terlato Wines International. —S.K. and cocoa, and a clean, spicy finish. Imported by Dia- still has a great texture and an appealing spicy wood mond Importers Inc. —S.K. finish. Imported by Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. Skouras 2006 Synoro (Peloponnese); $28. 84 Smoked sausage, raspberry and cherry spice Alpha Estate 2007 Hedgehog Vineyard A. Parparoussis 2007 Les Dons de Dionysos start this exuberant red blend. The wine has an overall 86 Xinomavro (Amyndeon); $36. The nose on 84 Barrel Fermented White (Achaia); $25. This spicy character and a bigger, open style. Easy drinking this red starts with a slightly medicinal cherry cola nose, barrel-fermented Athiri-Assyrtiko blend starts with a and fun, pair it with grilled ribs or duck. Imported by and a touch of smoked meat. On the palate, cherry, red wave of spice, mint and citrus aromas, leading into fla- Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. berry and cigarbox flavors are carried by a lively acidity. vors of sea salt, lemon and spice. Though not entirely Fresh and balanced, it will pair well with grilled meats, balanced, it’s versatile; pair with meat, fish or cheese. AGIORGITIKO stews. Imported by Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. Imported by Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. Skouras 2010 Roditis-Moscofilero (Pelo- Estate Biblia Chora 2007 Areti Agiorgitiko OTHER REDS 84 ponnese); $9. Peach, banana, citrus and white 86 (Pangeon); $29. This red has a native spin that flower aromas are followed by refreshing citrus and gives it extra, exotic appeal. Pepper, mint and cherry Alpha Estate 2007 Utopia Tannat (Florina); spice flavors in this assertive white. A racy minerality on the nose are followed by flavors of tobacco, spicebox 88 $21. Blackberry, cocoa, pepper and a touch of and spicy finish give the wine great food-pairing versa- and red berry flavors. Lively, with a cheerful berry fin- herbs on the nose give this hearty red some muscle. tility, but it’s a good summer sipper on its own. ish, it will pair well with lamb, pasta. Imported by Cava The flavors of cocoa powder, slate, spicebox and cherry Imported by Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. Spiliadis. —S.K. are clean and easy-drinking. Food-friendly, the wine

WineMag.com | 19 BUYING I GUIDE

nay starts with tropical fruit, citrus and floral aromas to evolve in the glass. It is a beautiful expression of INDIGENOUS VARIETIES leading into a great fruit and acid balance. The mineral- Taurasi that does a very faithful job of exploring the ity keeps the wine fresh and lifted, giving it a food- depths and horizons of aged Aglianico. It emits elegant Estate Biblia Chora 2009 Areti Assyrtico friendly edge. A great go-to white. Imported by aromas of resin, dried berries, cassis, tobacco, rum cake, 89 (Pangeon); $23. This is exactly what a good Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. cola and crushed stone. The tannins are firm but also Greek white should be…fresh, balanced, food-friendly. show a softer, silkier side which makes the wine On the nose, the wine offers citrus and tropical fruit. Skouras 2007 Dum Vinum Sperum approachable now. Imported by Winebow. Cellar Delicate, clean flavors of lemon, orange and slate dance 86 Chardonnay (Peloponnese); $40. Vanilla, Selection. —M.L. on the palate. Pair this with some freshly grilled fish or spice and citrus aromas start this dependable Greek a Mediterranean salad. Imported by Cava Spiliadis. Chardonnay. Spicy citrus, vanilla, fresh white fruit and Feudi di San Gregorio 2006 Taurasi; $40. Editors’ Choice. —S.K. flowers on the palate are balanced and easy to love. 92 For full review see page 5. Pair with richer seafood or salads. Imported by Dia- Skouras 2010 Georges Skouras mond Importers Inc. —S.K. Mastroberardino 2005 Naturalis Historia 89 Moscofilero (Peloponnese); $15. Lush trop- 92 (Taurasi); $NA. Packaged in a beautifully ical fruit and fragrant white flowers lead this balanced, Estate Biblia Chora 2009 Chardonnay unique glass bottle, this collector’s wine from southern pretty white from Skouras. On the palate, lemon, pear 85 (Pangeon); $35. Hallmark flavors of peach, Italy offers balance, intensity and cleanly etched aromas and peach are buoyed by a great acidic spin. The briny pear, citrus and spice lead this Chardonnay from Ktima. of black fruit, resin, cola, rum cake, dried violets and sea salt finish adds a delicious touch. Pair with grilled Balanced and subdued, its white fruit, floral and citrus tobacco. The finish is elegant, polished and lingers long octopus, fish. Imported by Diamond Importers Inc. flavors will pair well with dishes that need a lighter, on the palate thanks to the drying tannins. Imported Editors’ Choice. —S.K. easygoing touch. Imported by Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. by Winebow. —M.L.

Domaine Gerovassiliou 2009 Malagousia Terredora 2004 Pago dei Fusi (Taurasi); 88 (Epanomi); $23. This is a variety Gerovassiliou VIOGNIER 92 $NA. Pago dei Fusi is a distinctive wine that does very well, with its aromas of pear, peach and excels in terms of intensity and clarity. Elegant tones of lemon and its creamy but crisp flavors of pear, citrus Domaine Gerovassiliou 2009 Viognier tar, black fruit, tobacco, dark spice and rum cake appear and peach. The wine has weight without losing its deli- 89 (Epanomi); $39. Floral, fresh and fragrant on immediately and slowly change form as the wine spends cate touch, and balanced acidity gives it a food-friendly the nose, this white offers elegant flavors of honey, apri- more time in the glass. Drying tannins make for a dra- edge. A great summer white wine. Imported by Cava cot and tropical fruit. Good acidity and a crisp overall matic close. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. Spiliadis. —S.K. quality are balanced by the luscious fruit. A unique, pretty wine with diverse food pairing options…try it Villa Matilde 2005 Tenuta di Altavilla Alpha Estate 2010 Axia Malagauzia (Flo- with Asian or Indian cuisine. Imported by Cava 92 (Taurasi); $NA. What sets this Taurasi apart is a 86 rina); $20. An alluring nose of deep pear and Spiliadis. —S.K. distinct floral note of blue flower or pressed rose that peach lead this exciting variety from Axia. On the sits over a much broader and bolder base of dark spice, palate, the curvy, creamy waves of peach and citrus are Skouras 2009 Eclectique Spilitsa Viognier black fruit, prune, resin and cola. The little floral accent followed by a clean finish. A tasty white that will pair 88 (Peloponnese); $40. A nose of peach, nutmeg, adds a feminine touch to what is without a doubt one of well with fish, chicken salad. Imported by Diamond toasted nut and honey leads this Viognier from Splitsa. Italy’s most masculine wines. Imported by Empson Importers Inc. —S.K. On the palate, smooth waves of white fruit, orange blos- (USA) Ltd. —M.L. som and honey are expressive but refreshing, thanks to A. Parparoussis 2009 The Gift of Dionysos the balanced acidity. A fun wine with class. Imported by Donnachiara 2006 Taurasi; $34. This firm 85 Sideritis (Greece); $23. This rare Greek vari- Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. 90 and austere Taurasi opens with dark aromas of ety expresses itself here with aromas of lime and plum cake, chocolate, dried currant, cola and smoky quince, and fresh green flavors of citrus and cucumber. Skouras 2009 Cuvée Larsinos Viognier barbecue sauce. The tannins are firm and dense and Refreshing but also creamy. A unique wine that will 87 (Peloponnese); $20. This Viognier is a combi- the wine needs a few more years of cellar aging before pair well with grilled fish or octopus. Imported by Cava nation of peach and honeyed spice on the nose and it softens. Imported by Tita Italian Import & Export. — Spiliadis. —S.K. palate. Refreshing but with a round, fragrant curve, the M.L. wine has a velvety texture and finishes with a spin of peach and tropical fruit. Imported by Diamond Terredora 2004 Taurasi; $NA. A vein of pure CHARDONNAY Importers Inc. —S.K. 90 elegance runs straight through this austere Taurasi and holds it together until the firm, tannic end. Domaine Costa Lazaridi 2009 Château Along the way, it imparts tones of crushed black stone, 88 Julia Chardonnay (Drama); $15. Vibrant OTHER WHITES resin, dark fruit, prune, cola and dark spice. Pair this tropical fruit and citrus on the nose start this poised wine with meat or aged cheese. Imported by Vias white from Greece. Pineapple, lemon and banana fla- Domaine Gerovassiliou 2009 Sauvignon Imports. —M.L. vors are balanced by refreshing acidity and minerality. 87 Blanc (Epanomi); $35. This fumé has a zesty Overall, the wine is a delicious blend of fresh and fruity. character, with aromas of tropical fruit and flowers and Terredora 2003 CampoRe Riserva (Taurasi); A great find. Imported by Nestor Imports. —S.K. fresh, fun flavors of peach, citrus and pineapple. The 90 $NA. Well-aged and elegant, this proud Taurasi oak offers spice for added character, and clean acidity shows a very deep and sophisticated side. Aromas Domaine Gerovassiliou 2009 Chardonnay makes it a great find for fresh, summer meals. Imported include cured meat, licorice, rum cake, dried herbs, 87 (Epanomi); $44. This fuller-bodied Chardon- by Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. cola and root beer. The freshness of the fruit is fading nay offers aromas of pear and tropical fruit, followed by but the tannins are still firm, giving the wine a few more rich, round waves of apricot, pear and peach. Fresh but years of longevity. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. mouthfilling, it’s a great everyday wine for fish or poul- SOUTHERN ITALY REDS try dishes with a little more weight. Imported by Cava La Casa Dell’Orco 2005 Taurasi; $30. Spiliadis. —S.K. TAURASI 88 Behind those characteristic aromas of black stone, resin and tar, this hearty Taurasi delivers a touch Skouras 2009 Almyra Chardonnay (Pelo- Mastroberardino 2003 Radici Riserva of raw fruit or black cherry. Some muddled spice notes 86 ponnese); $15. This fresh but spicy Chardon- 93 (Taurasi); $NA. Give this wine a few minutes appear and the wine delivers more used leather and

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 dried tobacco on the close. Imported by Bedford Inter- delivers a long succession of spice, leather, tobacco and opens the nose of this hearty Aglianico. The wine offers national. —M.L. black fruit aromas. Very nice. Imported by U.S. Wine black concentration and rich aromas of sweet spice, Imports. —M.L. blackberry jam, crushed pepper, milky chocolate and Rocca del Principe 2007 Taurasi; $NA. This sour cherry. Imported by Tita Italian Import & Export. 88 is a ripe, jammy expression of Taurasi that shows Donnachiara 2007 Aglianico (Irpinia); $22. —M.L. aromas of dried prune, raisin, dark tar, resin, blackberry 88 Dark and concentrated in appearance, this preserves and moist tobacco. The tannins are firm and hearty Aglianico opens with tones of spice and smoked La Casa Dell’Orco 2008 Aglianico (Irpinia); solid, but they also show a chewy, ripe side. Imported bacon backed by black fruit, tobacco and dark leather. 86 $15. Here’s a food-friendly Aglianico that opens by Indigenous Selections. —M.L. The overall package is very enticing and that wine is with pungent aromas of green herb, talc powder, softer and smoother than most other expressions of this crushed stone and dried fruit. It’s a drying but not OTHER AGLIANICOS firmly tannic grape. Imported by Tita Italian Import & astringent wine that leaves a polished sensation on the Export. —M.L. finish. Imported by Bedford International. —M.L.

Paternoster 2005 Don Anselmo (Aglianico Feudi di San Gregorio 2008 Rubrato Ocone 2006 Aglianico del Taburno; $13. del Vulture); $90. Celebrating 20 years of Aglianico (Irpinia); $20. Rubrato is a clean 93 88 Available at an attractively low price, this oak- winemaking tradition, Don Anselmo is a landmark wine and polished expression of Aglianico (stored in stainless 86 aged Aglianico opens with dark, brooding tones of cas- that shows the best of the promising, but always over- steel instead of oak in order to preserve the freshness of sis, dark spice, resin, tar and black licorice. The looked, territory of Basilicata in southern Italy. Redo- the fruit) that would work with meatloaf or juicy cheese- mouthfeel is firm and tight, making this wine suitable lent of strong sunshine and volcanic soils, the wine is burgers. It shows a smooth but firm quality in the for a fatty meat dish such as a juicy cheeseburger. powerful and ripe with dark fruit, spice and mineral mouth. Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.L. aromas. It boasts firm, drying tannins that will age Imported by Polaner Selections. —M.L. gracefully with more time in the cellar. Imported by Mastroberardino 2008 Aglianico (Campa- Terra di Briganti 2007 Aglianico (Sannio); Quintessential Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.L. 88 nia); $NA. This is a very correct and straight- forward Aglianico that delivers all the basic promises of 86 $16. From the Sannio area of Campania, this is Feudi di San Gregorio 2007 Serpico the variety. There’s firmness and deep structure here, a thin and easy expression of Aglianico that offers a very 92 (Irpinia); $80. Serpico is a beautiful but also but the wine is also flush with chewy fruit, tobacco, frank and upfront interpretation of the grape variety. modern expression of Aglianico (the grapes come from leather and dusty mineral tones on the close. Imported Aromas include dark berry, tobacco and spice followed ancient vines in the Taurasi area) that opens with dark by Winebow. —M.L. by firm tannins at the rear. Imported by U.S. Wine notes of blackberry, crushed stone, chocolate, rum cake, Imports. —M.L. licorice and cola. The mouthfeel is smooth, firm and Castel dell’Angelo 2006 Colli e Sole very rich. Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.L. 87 Aglianico (Campania); $NA. For full review see page 7. PIEDIROSSO Ocone 2006 Anastasi (Aglianico del 92 Taburno); $50. From limestone and clay soils, Ocone 2006 Vigna Pezza La Corte (Aglian- Mastroberardino 2009 Lacryma Christi del this elegant Aglianico opens with a smooth and silky 87 ico del Taburno); $24. Made with organically 87 Vesuvio; $NA. Here’s a bright and fruit-for- feel backed by power. Aromas of dark fruit, licorice and farmed Aglianico grapes, this single-vineyard expres- ward red wine from Mt. Vesuvius that offers lively notes spice would match leg of lamb or pork roast. Imported sion spends nine months in oak to shape a dark, austere of cherry, mature raspberry, spice and almond paste. by Polaner Selections. —M.L. and smoky wine. It’s not terribly complex or layered, It’s a no-fuss wine that drinks easily and quickly. but it does offer upfront blackberry and spice aromas Imported by Winebow. —M.L. Mustilli 2006 Cesco di Nece (Sant’ Agata over firm texture. Imported by Polaner Selections. — 90 dei Goti); $27. Cesco di Nece is a dark, inky M.L. Mustilli 2008 Piedirosso (Sannio); $17. Sour Aglianico that opens with aromas of dried tobacco, 86 cherry, cranberry, licorice and cola open the licorice and bitter chocolate. It’s a bruiser wine with Ocone 2004 Vigna Pezza la Corte (Aglian- nose of Mustilli’s Piedirosso. This is an easy, fresh wine dark extraction and rock-solid structure. Imported by 87 ico del Taburno); $NA. This is a hearty, meaty that would pair with pizza or pasta topped with loads of Domenico Selections. —M.L. wine that opens with aromas of smoked bacon, cheese. Imported by Domenico Selections. —M.L. mesquite and A1 Steak Sauce. It feels smooth, rich and Ocone 2004 Diomede (Aglianico del ends with a touch of bitter cherry. Imported by Polaner Ocone 2009 Piedirosso (Taburno); $12. Taburno); $35. Diomede is a plusher, chewier Selections. —M.L. 89 Playful aromas of sweet fruit and watermelon expression of Aglianico with background notes of vanilla 86 candy open the nose of this bright Piedirosso wine. It’s and sweet spice that peek between dominant aromas of Terredora 2008 Aglianico (Campania); smooth and easygoing in the mouth and would pair blackberry and cassis. Like other expressions of this tan- $NA. Although those superfirm tannins do pop 87 with grilled sausage or lamb chops. Imported by nic grape, what distinguishes this wine is its firm struc- up on the end, this is a relatively smooth and fruit-for- Polaner Selections. —M.L. ture that should be paired to fatty meat or succulent ward expression of the austere Aglianico variety. Black- steak. Imported by Polaner Selections. —M.L. berry and maraschino cherry is surrounded by a drying Ocone 2008 Piedirosso (Taburno); $12. aromatic embroidery of mineral and powdered spice. Sorrentino 2008 Don Paolo (Pompeiano); Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. 85 Bright fruit aromas open the nose of this ruby- 89 $20. Don Paolo is a thick and richly layered colored Piedirosso. The wine is compact and firm with wine that offers tones of dark chocolate, mature fruit, Villa Matilde 2007 Tenuta Rocca dei Leoni enough tannins and acidity to pair with cheesy lasagna. prune, blackberry preserves and rum cake. The mouth- 87 Aglianico (Campania); $NA. This is a tight, Imported by Polaner Selections. —M.L. feel is characterized by gritty tannins and jammy fruit meaty Aglianico that offers a broad range of aromas power. Imported by Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L. that spans from black pepper to green olive to mature Sorrentino 2008 Vulcano Piedirosso (Pom- black cherry. The wine’s solid structure makes it a good 85 peiano); $18. Vulcano, in hommage to the Terra di Briganti 2008 Martummè Aglian- match to lamb or stewed game meat. Imported by might Mt. Vesuvius, opens with tight aromas of cola, 89 ico (Sannio); $24. Martummè is an austere Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. blackberry, licorice and root beer. The wine is compact Taurasi-style Aglianico (from the Sannio region, how- and linear with some sharp, brambly elements due to ever) that places emphasis on richness, elegance and Donnachiara 2007 Aglianico (Campania); high acidity and tannins. Imported by Supreme Wines sophistication. Deep and penetrating in the mouth, it 86 $16. A meaty note of bresaola or smoked bacon & Spirits. —M.L.

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Terredora 2007 Lacryma Christi del Vesu- Montevetrano 2008 Red Wine (Campa- to smooth out any wrinkles. Imported by Vias Imports. 85 vio; $NA. Slightly muddled at first, this wine 92 nia); $NA. This 60-30-10 Cabernet Sauvignon, —M.L. needs a few minutes to open in the glass. It slowly Merlot and Aglianico blend from southern Italy delivers reveals aromas of dark spice, prune and plum. In the beautiful purity and intensity. Aromas here include Fattoria Alois 2007 Settimo (Campania); mouth there are sour cherry flavors and tight tannins. blackberry, tobacco, leather, rum cake and polished 89 $NA. Drying aromas of crushed stone and Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. black stone. It tastes firm and full on the palate and licorice open the nose of this interesting Pallagrello and could use a few more years of cellar aging. Imported by Casavecchia blend. Those tones are soon followed by Winebow. —M.L. very rich layers of chocolate, plum cake, cola and pressed CASAVECCHIA rose petal and the mouthfeel is rich and penetrating. Ocone 2008 Calidonio (Taburno); $42. Cali- Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. Terre del Principe 2007 Centomoggia 92 donio is a fascinating and deeply layered wine Terre del Principe 2009 Castello delle Fem- Casavecchia (Terre del Volturno); $58. This that is remarkable off the bat thanks to its unique per- 90 mine (Terre del Volturno); $38. inky, thick and well- extracted wine (made from sonality and compelling aromatic profile. Piedirosso 89 Terre del Casavecchia grapes) offers very pretty aromas of dark (85%) is fermented in oak with 15% Aglianico to create Principe tends to produce very extracted and thickly tones of black fruit, spicy smoked meat, resin and black concentrated wines. Castello delle Femmine, on the chocolate, prune, exotic spice and black jammy fruit. licorice. It is smooth and very soft on the close. other hand, exhibits a lighter more delicate style with The tannins are soft and polished and the wine per- Imported by Polaner Selections. —M.L. aromas of dark fruit, spice, plum and cola. The power is forms even better after a few minutes in the glass. there, only it’s packaged in a silk lining. Imported by Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. Palari 2007 Faro (Sicilia); $NA. Vintner Salva- Vias Imports. —M.L. tore Geraci is the proud producer of Palari Fattoria Alois 2007 Trebulanum Casavec- 92 Faro, one of the great red wines to emerge from the Villa Matilde 2006 Cecubo (Roccamon- chia (Campania); $39. 88 Casavecchia (know as Mediterranean rim and the island of Sicily. The ele- 89 fina); $NA. Cecubo is a thick and well concen- Trebulanum in the ancient world) is one of Italy’s most gance and finesse is extraordinary and the wine opens trated wine that opens with meaty aromas of smoked historic varieties but Fattoria Alois presents a modern, with a complex bouquet that sees petite elements of bacon and blackberry followed by cola, barbecue sauce oak-aged expression with bold notes of chocolate, clove, cassis, licorice, tar and tobacco rolled into one. and sweet spice. It’s a unique and distinctive wine that black fruit and rum cake. It closes firm with a touch of Imported by Panebianco. —M.L. ends with a smooth, firm feel. Imported by Empson bright sourness. Very interesting. Imported by Soilair (USA) Ltd. —M.L. Selection. —M.L. Palari 2006 Faro (Sicilia); $NA. This is a del- 92 icate and beautiful wine that roughly translates Fattoria Alois 2008 Cunto Pallagrello into Sicily’s answer to a great Pinot Noir. Indigenous 88 (Campania); $NA. This solidly tannic expres- OTHER REDS grapes native to the Mediterranean island are used to sion of Pallagrello opens with aromas of chocolate, dark make an elegant, complex and anything-but-obvious spice and mature fruit. The harshness of the structure Feudi di San Gregorio 2007 Sirica (Campa- expression that boasts small berry fruit, cola and toasted needs to be offset by creamy or fatty foods that will 94 nia); $NA. This is a fascinating wine that repre- almond. Imported by Panebianco. —M.L. soften the variety’s natural astringency. Imported by sents the first bottling of a newly discovered grape Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. called Sirica (only 690 bottles have been produced). Villa Matilde 2004 Camarato (Falerno del Genetic research shows that the grape shares character- 91 Massico); $NA. Camarato is a beautiful wine Feudi di San Gregorio 2005 Pàtrimo Mer- istic with Syrah but that its lineage extends deep into and the 2004 vintage shows impressive harmony and 88 lot (Campania); $150. Pàtrimo, a pure expres- ancient times. The wine is simply delicious with soft elegance. The wine opens with aromas of chocolate, sion of Merlot from southern Italy, is always a crowd layers of chocolate, cherry and spice and balanced firm- black cherry and spice. In the mouth, it shows firm, pleaser, but this year’s edition is a tad more ripe and ness on the close. A great item for collectors. Imported enduring tannins. Pair it with a succulent steak. jammy than past vintages: 2005 was indeed a hot year. by Palm Bay International. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. Intense aromas of black cherry and blackberry pie emerge from the nose and the wine’s finish is accented Feudi di San Gregorio 2007 Pàtrimo (Cam- Galardi 2008 Terra di Lavoro (Roccamon- by a surprise signature of tart acidity. Imported by Palm fina); $NA. 93 pania); $120. For full review see page 4. Cel- 90 Terra di Lavoro (a blend of Aglian- Bay International. —M.L. lar Selection. ico and Piedirosso) is packaged in a handsome bottle and opens with inky, dark richness. The well concen- I Capitani 2007 Emè (Irpinia); $NA. This is a Tenute Rubino 2007 TorreTesta (Salento); trated wine is redolent of espresso bean, rum cake, 88 unique wine from an area of Italy that rarely chocolate, leather and moist pipe tobacco. The sweet does blended varieties. The grapes used here are $NA. TorreTesta is an amazing wine that points 93 tannins are very astringent still so give this wine time to Aglianico, Piedirosso and and the aromas to the full potential of winemaking in Puglia, the heel of soften. —M.L. include soy sauce, cola, root beer and barbecue sauce. the boot of Italy. Made from a rare indigenous grape A little strange and probably not for everyone. called Susumaniello, this is a ripe, soft, enduring and Nanni Copé 2008 Sabbie di Sopra il Bosco Imported by Premium Brands. —M.L. ever-so satisfying red wine that could pair with any 90 (Terre del Volturno); $49. Here’s a new pro- hearty meat dish. Aromas of blackberry, chocolate and ducer from southern Italy who presents a very interest- Trabucco 2007 Rapicano (Falerno del Mas- exotic spice are enhanced by a beautiful velvety tex- ing blend of Pallagrello (70%), Aglianico and 88 sico); $NA. Rapicano is a full and generous ture. Imported by Panebianco. —M.L. Casavecchia. The wine opens with warm aromas of wine that opens with a blast of chocolate fudge and cin- leather, smoked meat and black fruit and delivers a namon spice followed by dried prunes, raisins and Terre del Principe 2007 Vigna Piancastelli unique mouthfeel that is firm but rich at the same time. blackberry. That gorgeous initial intensity is taken down 93 (Terre del Volturno); $80. This inky blend of Imported by T. Elenteny Imports. —M.L. a notch in the mouth where the wine shows tight tan- Pallagrello Nero and Casavecchia (two of Italy’s oldest nins. —M.L. grape varieties) opens with opulent aromas of choco- Terre del Principe 2007 Ambruco Palla- late, exotic spice, dark fruit, cola and cinnamon. It is 90 grello (Terre del Volturno); $58. Ambruco is Villa Matilde 2006 Red Wine (Falerno del smooth and rich on the palate but the wine also imparts a softly layered and rich wine that imparts opulent aro- 88 Massico); $NA. A blend of Aglianico and a high dose of sweetness and succulence that would mas of chocolate, sweet spice, dark fruit, plum, prune Piedirosso, Falerno is one of civilization’s oldest wines work well next to rare beef. Imported by Vias Imports. and licorice. There’s a touch of bitterness in the mouth (its history spans back to ancient Rome). This expres- —M.L. but otherwise the mouthfeel is thick and dense enough sion delivers mature aromas of blackberry jam and

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 exotic spice. There’s a creamy fullness to the mouth- shows medium structure and endurance. Imported by Feudi di San Gregorio 2006 DUBL feel that is capped by tannic firmness. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. 88 Falanghina Brut Metodo Classico (Campa- Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. nia); $40. Made with Italy’s popular and historic Talamonti 2010 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo; Falanghina grape and aged on the lees for 14 months, Il Matané 2008 Primitivo di Manduria; 87 $NA. This pomegranate-pink Cerasuolo from this classic method sparkling wine represents a new 87 $NA. This is a meaty, chewy, succulent and central Italy opens with spicy aromas of chopped herb, turn for southern Italian winemaking that has tradition- slightly sweet rendition of Primitivo from sunny south- cassis and raspberry and ends with cooling acidity on ally shown little interest in bubbles. The results here ern Italy that is redolent of jammy fruit and blackberry the close. The mouthfeel shows balanced density and are promising, with fresh tones of field flower and stone pie. Those ripe tones continue to the mouth where the smoothness. Imported by Panebianco. —M.L. fruit that would pair perfectly with appetizers. wine feels soft, plush and smooth. Imported by Emp- Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.L. son (USA) Ltd. —M.L. Fattoria Alois 2009 Nadhir (Campania); 86 $NA. This dark, ruby-colored rosé made with Ocone 2009 Vigna del Monaco Falanghina Masseria del Fauno 2010 Primitivo the rare Casavecchia grape (which has existed since 88 (Taburno); $22. This single cru, oak-fermented 87 (Puglia); $NA. This darkly colored Primitivo ancient Rome, when Pliny the Elder referred to it as Falanghina opens with a saturated golden color and opens with sweet notes of Christmas spice, cinnamon, Trebulanum), opens with soapy aromas of rosewood, concentrated aromas of pineapple, exotic fruit, mango, nutmeg, blackberry jam and plum cake. The wine is raspberry, blueberry and almond paste. It shows a sur- toasted almond and yellow rose. It shows creamy rich- sticky and chewy on the close with sweet, succulent prising touch of tannic firmness on the close. Imported ness in the mouth and an elaborate style that is rare for tannins. —M.L. by Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. this easygoing white grape. Imported by Polaner Selec- tions. —M.L. Masseria del Fauno 2010 Sangiovese Librandi 2009 Rosato (Cirò); $NA. Here’s a 87 (Puglia); $NA. This darkly concentrated San- 85 well structured and creamy rosé from Calabria, Terra di Briganti 2008 Falanghina Passito giovese from Puglia opens with ripe aromas of rasp- southern Italy, that opens with a bright pink color and 88 (Beneventano); $25/375 ml. Air-dried berry jam, maraschino cherry and sun-soaked lavender enticing aromas of raspberry and cranberry jelly. Falanghina grapes are pressed to produce a golden-col- flower. There’s a sweetness you’ll identify on the finish Thanks to that extra density, you could pair this wine ored dessert wine with aromas of dried hay, honey, that is enhanced by the wine’s chewy texture. —M.L. with roast chicken or pork chops. Imported by almond, apricot and even a touch of fresh celery that Winebow. —M.L. lends a zesty, green accent. The finish is dominated by Mastroberardino 2009 Mastro (Campania); rich flavors of dried apple. Imported by U.S. Wine $NA. Made with a unique blend of Aglianico, Terredora 2009 Rosaenovae (Irpinia); $NA. 87 Imports. —M.L. Piedirosso and Sciascinoso grapes, Mastro is a plush 83 This is an interesting but not perfectly balanced and food-friendly red wine that would wash down with rosé from the celebrated Irpinia area of Campania in Donnachiara 2009 Falanghina (Beneven- easy meat dishes or lasagna. The wine ends with a hint southern Italy. The nose of this pretty, pale pink wine tano); $16. Donnachiara offers a bright and of chopped herb or smoked bacon. Imported by opens with sweet aromas of berries and roses. But the 87 cheerful expression of Falanghina that is packed tight Winebow. —M.L. mouthfeel shows sharp sourness. Imported by Vias with exotic fruit, citrus, stone fruit and jasmine flower. Imports. —M.L. Trabucco 2007 Érre (Falerno del Massico); It offers enough density in the mouth to pair with scal- lops or oysters. Imported by Tita Italian Import & $NA. Herbal notes are intermingled with dark Spadafora 2009 Vigna Fiego (Donnici); 87 Export. —M.L. chocolate and blackberry to produce the intense, 82 $NA. This rosé blend of Magliocco, Greco Nero extracted nose on this southern Italian red wine. and Malvasia from Calabria offers lean intensity and Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Falanghina There’s a touch of sourness on the close, backed by aromas of rose petal and small berry. There’s a touch of (Sannio); $18. This is a crisp and pure expres- super tight tannins, that should relax with two or three sour almond as well and the wine is slightly bitter and 87 more years of cellar aging. —M.L. muddled in the mouth. —M.L. sion of Falanghina with aromas of lemon zest and hon- eysuckle followed by crushed white stone and mature Sorrentino 2009 Versacrum Gragnano peach or melon. The wine would make a perfect com- 81 (Penisola Sorrentina); $16. Made with Grag- SOUTHERN ITALY panion to appetizers or sushi. Imported by Palm Bay nano grapes from sunny Sorrento, this sparkling red International. —M.L. wine opens with aromas of dark chocolate, blackberry, WHITES smoked ham and Band-Aid. It’s a strange combination Mastroberardino 2009 Falanghina (San- for a bubbly wine that sees firm tannins awkwardly FALANGHINA 87 nio); $NA. Crisp and citrusy with supporting placed within its creamy perlage. Imported by Supreme aromas of melon and peach, this is a very clean and Wines & Spirits. —M.L. Villa Matilde 2006 Eleusi Falanghina Pas- well put together Falanghina. This luminous white 94 sito (Roccamonfina); $NA/375 ml. Eleusi is would make a wonderful companion to light salad a gorgeous and opulent wine with natural intensity that lunches or smoked salmon carpaccio. Imported by ROSÉS sees no limits. The aromas are penetrating and rich and Winebow. —M.L. include dried apricot, chestnut honey, acacia flower and Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Ros’Aura candied fruit. The mouthfeel is silky smooth and the Villa Matilde 2009 Falanghina (Falerno del 87 (Irpinia); $16. Made with Aglianico grapes, this finish lasts forever. Beautiful. Imported by Empson 87 Massico); $NA. Made from a very old clone of elegantly pink rosé offers sweet berry aromas of rasp- (USA) Ltd. —M.L. Falanghina (a grape whose history spans back to the berry and blueberry followed by floral notes and a Roman Empire), this bright and tonic wine bursts open touch of almond marzipan. The mouthfeel is tonic and Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Serrocielo with green notes of kiwi, lime and freshly cut grass. clean and more berry flavors color the finish. Imported 90 Falanghina (Sannio); $33. This is a really fan- Those background citrus and white mineral aromas by Palm Bay International. —M.L. tastic wine and one of the best expression of Falanghina would make it perfect to pair with lightly fried cala- available today. (Perhaps the best.) What sets it apart is mari. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. Mastroberardino 2009 Lacrimarosa (Cam- the purity of its fruit aromas. Citrus, white mineral and 87 pania); $NA. This beautiful rosé opens with a tonic fruit aromas hint at the crisp and smooth palate. Ocone 2009 Falanghina (Taburno); $12. pretty pink color and offers direct aromas of cranberry, Would wash down well with fish, salad or spaghetti con 86 Here’s a very well priced Falanghina with overt raspberry, white cherry, almond skin and slight shadings vongole. Imported by Palm Bay International. Editors’ and very mature aromas of apricot, peach and sweet of cinnamon spice. The mouthfeel is crisp, clean and Choice. —M.L. honey. It feels smooth and silky and ends with a blast

WineMag.com | 23 BUYING I GUIDE of yellow fruit flavors. Imported by Polaner Selections. wine, in fact in the mouth, it leaves resiny aromas of dried almond. The wine tastes soft and slightly sweet —M.L. butterscotch, exotic fruit and candied banana. —M.L. with marzipan-like flavors on the close. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. Terra di Briganti 2009 Falanghina (Sannio); 86 $14. From a boutique producer that shows great FIANO Terredora 2009 Fiano di Avellino; $NA. promise for the future, this fresh Falanghina opens with 87 Terredora is a dynamic, family-run winery with bright notes of green grass, kiwi, lemon and white Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Pietracalda deep roots in Irpinia wine tradition. The Fiano di Avel- flower. It’s an easy, crisp wine that keeps the palate crys- 90 (Fiano di Avellino); $33. Pietracalda (which lino opens with mature yellow and exotic fruit aromas tal clean. Imported by US Wine Imports. —M.L. translates into “hot rock”) seems indeed to release aro- with background notes of dusty mineral and crushed mas of sunbaked granite or river stone over lush back- granite. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. Villa Matilde 2009 Tenuta Rocca dei Leoni ground tones of peach, pear and yellow lemon zest. 86 Falanghina (Campania); $NA. Residents of There’s a drying, polished feel in the mouth with a Villa Matilde 2009 Tenute di Altavilla Central-South Italy, and especially the Romans, enjoy a touch of bitter almond on the close. Imported by Palm 87 (Fiano di Avellino); $NA. Fiano is a versatile long and loving relationship with Falanghina thanks to Bay International. —M.L. grape that when executed in a fresh, easy style (as in the grape’s ability to pair with fresh foods and fish. Villa this expression) makes a perfect companion to shellfish Matilde presents a very clean, pristine and crisp expres- I Capitani 2009 Gaudium (Fiano di Avel- or seafood. Aromas include stone fruit, pink grapefruit sion with aromas of citrus, white rose and peach. 90 lino); $NA. Gaudium is a radically unique and melon and there’s a touch of heat or power on the Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. expression of Fiano that might not appeal to everyone close. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. but that definitely shows careful craftsmanship and exe- Mustilli 2008 Sant’Agata dei Goti cution. The nose is redolent of crushed clove and exotic La Casa Dell’Orco 2009 Fiano di Avellino; 85 Falanghina (Campania); $17. This is a heav- spice (aromas you’d almost expect to find in a red wine) 86 $22. La Casa dell’Orco offers an interesting ier and thicker expression of Falanghina that opens with closely followed by fresh melon, pear and peach. interpretation of Fiano that is slightly bigger and fatter aromas of pineapple, melon, stone fruit and lemon zest. Imported by Premium Brands. —M.L. than most. This golden wine opens with aromas of That density continues to the mouth and the wine mature fruit, melon, apricot and a spicy touch of freshly would pair with spicy Thai or Chinese food. Imported Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Fiano di Avel- cut grass at the very end. It moves smoothly over the by Domenico Selections. —M.L. 88 lino; $22. Here’s a confident and pristine mouth and shows medium intensity. Imported by Bed- expression of Fiano that bursts open with aromas of ford International. —M.L. Sorrentino 2009 Versacrum Falanghina pear, white melon, acacia flower and honeysuckle. 85 (Pompeiano); $15. You can’t beat the sense of Those fruit and flower flavors build cheerful accents Rocca del Principe 2009 Fiano di Avellino; history awarded by this tangy, crisp Falanghina. Fruit is over an otherwise dry and polished mouthfeel. 86 $24. This expression of Fiano comes forward farmed near the ancient city of Pompeii under the Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.L. with crisp, clean aromas of freshly cut lemon, orange menacing shadow of Mt. Vesuvius. The result is a sharp, blossom and almond paste. The mouthfeel is tonic and tonic wine with kiwi, lime and grapefruit aromas. Mastroberardino 2008 Fiano di Avellino; lean, but the real point here is the wine’s freshness. Imported by Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L. 88 $25. This is a beautiful expression of Fiano with Imported by Indigenous Selections. —M.L. delicate background tones of chopped herb and even a Terredora 2009 Falanghina (Irpinia); $NA. touch of basil that helps the wine gain in intensity and Masseria Altemura 2008 Fiano (Salento); 85 There’s a smoky, dusty element at first that complexity overall. At the back are characteristic tones of 85 $15. Here’s an easy Fiano-based wine from the quickly evolves into mature aromas of peach, melon pear, lemon and apricot. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. deep south of Italy. Puglia is not known for its white and pear. The nose is slightly muddled at first but it wines, but this expression does a good job of presenting shows well in the mouth thanks to its natural crispness Mastroberardino 2009 Fiano di Avellino; the sunshine and intensity of the region. It’s very thin, and directness. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. 88 $NA. This is a crisp, tonic and steely expression but also fresh in the mouth. Imported by Zonin USA. of Fiano that offers an incredibly focused and sharp —M.L. Vivi 2009 Falanghina (Campania); $NA. This bouquet of white rose, crushed mineral and stone fruit. 85 light and bright white wine from southern Italy The wine’s precise personality is what makes it so Terra dei Re 2009 Claris (Fiano di Avellino); offers clean mineral notes of crushed stone and slate appropriate to pair with summer pasta or seafood. 84 $NA. This Fiano is a bit flat in the mouth and backed by peach, honey and citrus. Pair this wine with Imported by Winebow. —M.L. offers aromas of pressed yellow rose, butterscotch and mussels steamed in white wine sauce and garlic. —M.L. sun-dried apricot. The wine is correct, albeit one Ocone 2009 Oca Bianca (Beneventano); dimensional. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. La Casa Dell’Orco 2009 Falanghina (Ben- 88 $22. Oca Bianca is a Fiano-based wine (with 84 eventano); $12. This is an easy, no-fuss 15% other varieties mixed into the blend) that offers a expression of Falanghina that opens with direct aromas beautiful bouquet of peach, white flower and Golden GRECO of citrus and stone fruit and follows through to the Delicious apple. Despite the aromatic abundance, the palate with a tonic, refreshing feel. It would work with wine is thinner and crisper on the finish. Imported by Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Cutizzi (Greco fried vegetable appetizers or light lunches. Imported Polaner Selections. —M.L. 90 di Tufo); $33. Cutizzi’s bottle has been restyled by Bedford International. —M.L. with a single yellow polka dot that will really catch your Donnachiara 2009 Fiano di Avellino; $19. eye. The wine is equally fetching to the senses thanks to Mustilli 2007 Vigna Segreta Falanghina 87 Pear, Golden Delicious apple and cantaloup its rich aromas of pear, peach and Golden Delicious 83 (Campania); $21. From the Sant’Agata dei melon open the nose of this bigger style of Fiano di apple. The soft creaminess to the mouthfeel begs for Goti area of southern Italy, this hay-colored Falanghina Avellino. The wine offers more density and girth in the shrimp or shellfish. Imported by Palm Bay Interna- offers mature aromas of melon, lemon drop and exotic mouth, and this translates into staying power and over- tional. —M.L. fruit. The mouthfeel carries heft and power. Imported all persistency. Imported by Tita Italian Import & by Domenico Selections. —M.L. Export. —M.L. Feudi di San Gregorio 2006 DUBL Greco 90 Brut Metodo Classico (Campania); $45. Cantine Astroni 2007 Strione Falanghina Terredora 2008 CampoRe (Fiano di Avel- This is a very special, one-of-a-kind sparkling wine. 81 (Campania); $NA. This strange wine opens 87 lino); $NA. CampoRe opens with slightly oxi- Made in the metodo classico with indigenous Greco with a bright gold, almost amber color and a surpris- dized (but not overwhelming) aromas of caramel and grapes (from the southern Italian region of Campania) ingly neutral nose. There’s nothing wrong with the butterscotch followed by mature melon, apricot and the wine rests on the lees for 24 months to achieve

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 extra richness and opulence on the nose and mouth. fresh and lemony on the close. Imported by Polaner terscotch and caramel follow mature fruit tones of Ripe aromas of peach, melon and almond rise to the Selections. —M.L. melon, apricot and yellow peach. The wine is silky and forefront. Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.L. fine on the close. Imported by Michael R. Downey Terredora 2009 Loggia della Serra (Greco Selections. —M.L. Donnachiara 2009 Greco di Tufo; $19. This 87 di Tufo); $NA. If you’re itching to spend an 88 is a full, generous and round expression of afternoon sipping a cool Italian white by the pool or on Sorrentino 2008 Natì Coda di Volpe (Pom- Greco that lingers long on the palate thanks to its yel- your back porch with friends, here is your wine. South- 82 peiano); $NA. This is an interesting, outright low fruit, rose, almond, melon and apricot characteris- ern Italy’s answer to quality Pinot Grigio, this luminous strange wine that opens with a full golden color and an tics. It shows good density, persistency and a touch of Greco offers aromas of pear and peach with a crisp, aromatic veil of smoke, dust or chalky mineral over piquant spice on the close. Imported by Tita Italian lemony finish. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. exotic fruit and peach. One item out of place is the alco- Import & Export. —M.L. hol, which emerges strong in the mouth. Imported by Ocone 2008 Greco (Taburno); $13. This is a Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L. Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Greco di Tufo; 84 deeply golden and saturated Greco that offers 88 $22. This is a really fantastic white wine from the structure and consistency to pair with white meat, southern Italy that expresses much of the complexity pasta or shellfish. It offers subtle flavors of butterscotch PALLAGRELLO BIANCO and beauty of the land that shaped it. It also promises a and dried apricot as well. Imported by Polaner Selec- perfect pairing match to any Mediterranean fish dish— tions. —M.L. Terre del Principe 2008 Le Sèrole (Terre del from mussels with coarse black pepper or steamed cala- 88 Volturno); $50. Executed in a big, elaborate mari in lemon juice and olive oil. Imported by Palm Taverna 2009 Greco (Basilicata); $NA. style, this wine won’t appeal to everyone. It takes on an Bay International. —M.L. 84 Here’s a simple and fresh expression of Greco almost intellectual approach, seeking to push the outer from southern Italy that shows chalky, drying character- limits of the precious Pallagrello grape though oak fer- I Capitani 2009 Serum (Greco di Tufo); istics as well as ample pear and Golden Delicious apple. mentation and extended bottle aging. If you are seeking 88 $NA. Serum opens with dusty mineral aromas This easy wine would make a perfect partner to finger a carefree, fish-friendly wine, this is not for you. White backed by stone fruit, white peach, tangerine skin and foods or appetizers. —M.L. meat or pasta would be a better choice. Imported by almond paste. The really nice thing about this wine is Vias Imports. —M.L. the polished, drying feel it imparts on the close. CODA DI VOLPE Fattoria Alois 2009 Caiatì Pallagrello (Cam- Imported by Premium Brands. —M.L. 87 pania); $NA. Caiatì is an interesting and Mastroberardino 2009 Lacryma Christi del La Casa Dell’Orco 2009 Greco di Tufo; $22. unique expression of Pallagrello that does an excellent Vesuvio; $NA. Forget Pinot Grigio. Next time job of offering both aromatics and structure. Notes of This rich expression of Greco opens with a very 87 88 you’re looking for a fresh Italian white to pair with your melon, peach and apricot are followed by smooth direct and immediate bouquet of exotic fruit, pineapple favorite foods, try the little-known Coda di Volpe (“tail creaminess and density. Imported by Domaine Select and dried banana chips. It shows dense smoothness and of the fox”) grape that makes its home under the Wine Estates. —M.L. texture that would stand up to roasted chicken or turkey shadow of Mt. Vesuvius. This expression offers citrus, and Atlantic fish. Imported by Bedford International. peach and pear aromas. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. Fattoria Selvanova 2009 Acquavigna —M.L. 87 (Terre del Volturno); $16. From the rare Pal- Terredora 2009 Lacryma Christi del Vesu- lagrello grape, this is a wine that will appeal to those Mastroberardino 2009 Greco di Tufo; $NA. vio; $NA. This luminous Lacryma Christi looking for new tastes from Italy. You can feel the alco- Mastroberardino offers a linear and crisp Greco 86 88 opens with bright aromas of citrus, pear, stone fruit and hol here but the heat is downplayed by the wine’s natu- that unveils a sure mineral vein of chalk and brimstone shows slight hints of vanilla and pine nut as well. It sits rally thick and rich texture. Pair this wine with creamy backed by citrus, pear, apple and fleshy white peach. tight on the palate thanks to its crispness and tonic firm- pasta dishes to match the intensity of the mouthfeel. The mouthfeel is thin and compact, yet the natural ness. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. Imported by David Vincent Selection. —M.L. freshness leaves a lasting impression. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. Terredora 2009 Coda di Volpe (Campania); Fattoria Selvanova 2007 Acquavigna $NA. Terredora offers a very successful expres- (Terre del Volturno); $16. If you want to taste Villa Matilde 2009 Tenute di Altavilla 86 87 sion of the rare Coda di Volpe grape that puts emphasis a new grape variety from southern Italy, Pallagrello is a 88 (Greco di Tufo); $NA. This is a fantastic on body and texture, and not only on aromatics. The very interesting choice. The wine is naturally high in expression of Greco that offers impressive richness, bouquet is redolent of stone fruit and melon, but the alcohol so take care to pair it with rich, creamy or roundness and aromatic intensity. The wine opens with wine also feels creamy and smooth on the close. cheesy dishes to dampen the heat. Aromas include a bright, golden color and segues to aromas of pear, Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. stone fruit, honey and bitter nut. Imported by David Golden Delicious apple and apricot. Behind those fruit Vincent Selection. —M.L. tones are drying mineral notes that add balance and a Ocone 2009 Coda di Volpe (Taburno); $12. touch of elegance. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. 85 Coda di Volpe is vinified in stainless steel to offer Fattoria Selvanova 2008 Acquavigna (Terre —M.L. a simple, clean and tonic white wine from southern Italy. 86 del Volturno); $16. This vintage of Acquavigna It shows tones of bitter almond and lemon zest on the (a white wine from southern Italy made with the unique Librandi 2009 Greco Bianco (Cirò); $NA. close. Imported by Polaner Selections. —M.L. Pallagrello grape) shows good integration of its high 87 The Greco Bianco grape (a native variety of Cal- alcohol component and the creamy richness of the tex- abria in southern Italy) offers compelling aromas of Sorrentino 2009 Versacrum (Lacryma ture. Aromas include stone fruit, citrus and a touch of pear, Golden Delicious apple and stone fruit. Librandi 85 Christi del Vesuvio); $18. This is a luminous, bitter almond. This is not a wine for everyone. Imported does a great job with this wine that shows density and creamy expression of Coda di Volpe that delivers aro- by David Vincent Selection. —M.L. creamy spice on the close. Pair it with white meat or mas of stone fruit, pineapple, apricot and yellow rose. fish. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. The mouthfeel is short and compact, but it does show nice density while it lasts. Imported by Supreme Wines OTHER WHITES Ocone 2009 Greco (Taburno); $13. Ocone & Spirits. —M.L. 87 farms organically and this newest vintage of Librandi 2007 Le Passule (Val di Neto); Greco shows interesting aromas of toasted almond and Grotta del Sole 2007 Lacryma Christi del 92 $NA/500 ml. Le Passule is a gorgeous passito stone fruit offset by citrus and white flower. The wine is 83 Vesuvio; $NA. Slightly oxidized aromas of but- dessert wine that offers sweet tones of honey, candied

WineMag.com | 25 BUYING I GUIDE apricot and almond paste backed by a zesty touch of Spadafora 2009 Vigna Fiego (Donnici); persistence in the mouth. Imported by Banville & Jones exotic spice. There’s enough heft and determination 85 $NA. This vineyard-designate blend of Mon- Wine Merchants. —M.L. here to pair with aged cheese. Imported by Winebow. tonico, Greco and Malvasia opens with bright freshness —M.L. and simple aromas of stone fruit and Golden Delicious La Vis 2009 Intaglio (Trentino); $NA. This apple. This easygoing wine feels soft and smooth on the 88 screwcap red blend from northern Italy offers a Sorrentino 2009 Fior di Ginestre Passito close. —M.L. fantastic little package at a very attractive low price. 90 (Pompeiano); $28/500 ml. Made with a Pristine aromas of red berry and white cherry are offset blend of Falanghina and Coda di Volpe grapes, this Colacino 2009 Quarto (Calabria); $NA. by subtle shadings of sweet spice and crushed mineral. amber-colored passito opens with aromas of white 84 Here’s a thin and lightweight expression from The wine drinks very well. Imported by F&F Fine raisin, maple syrup, honey, toasted almond and sweet Calabria (the “toe of the boot of Italy”) that offers deli- Wines International. Best Buy. —M.L. marzipan. It’s a creamy, rich wine that would pair with cate tones of white flower and peach blossom backed by aged cheese or sweet desserts alike. Imported by fresh crispness and zest. It’s a very easygoing and infor- La Vis 2007 Ritratti Pinot Nero (Trentino); Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L. mal wine overall. —M.L. 88 $NA. Ritratti Pinot Nero is a flush and pristine expression of this exceptional grape from northern Italy Villa Matilde 2007 Caracci (Falerno del Tenuta del Conte 2009 Bianco (Cirò); $NA. that opens with tight berry, raspberry and floral aro- 88 Massico); $NA. Only produced in the best vin- 84 Cirò Bianco is a fresh white wine from Calabria mas. The wine tastes crisp, tight and closes with a fine, tages, Caracci is a beautifully golden colored wine that (the “toe of the boot of Italy”) that offers aromas of polished feel. Imported by F&F Fine Wines Interna- opens with very immediate aromas of dried fruit or white flower and stone fruit. It shows medium intensity tional. —M.L. apricot, lemon zest, honeysuckle and almond paste. It and a thin, easy feel in the mouth. Imported by feels crisp, direct and fresh on the close. Imported by Domenico Selections. —M.L. CENTRAL ITALY Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. Grotta del Sole 2007 Asprinio di Aversa; Ca’ del Bosco 2006 Pinéro (Sebino); $NA. Librandi 2009 Critone (Val di Neto); $NA. 83 $NA. This is a unique wine that opens with aro- 92 From 29-year-old Pinot Nero vines, Pinéro is an 87 Chardonnay and Sauvignon grapes are blended mas of caramel and butterscotch but it also offers elegant and fine still red wine produced by one of Italy’s to produce this fragrant white wine from Calabria, mature apricot, melon and candied fruit. The mouth- most celebrated sparkling wine houses. Polished and southern Italy. The Chardonnay component adds struc- feel is short and compact but the acidity and bitter finessed down to the smallest detail (those tiny berry ture and creamy density, while the Sauvignon offers almond flavors do keep it lively. Imported by Michael aromas come forth so clearly), this wine shows the fresh floral aromas. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. R. Downey Selections. —M.L. potential of the Burgundian variety in Italy. Imported by Terlato Wines International. —M.L. Librandi 2009 Efeso Mantonico (Val di OTHER ITALIAN REDS 87 Neto); $NA. Mantonico is among the most Perticaia 2006 Sagrantino (Montefalco cherished native grape varieties of southern Italy, and NORTHEAST ITALY 91 Sagrantino); $50. Here’s a bold and beautiful this luminous expression by celebrated Calabria pro- expression from the tiny hamlet of Montefalco in ducer Librandi offers an interesting mix of elegance Alois Lageder 2004 MMIV Merlot (Alto Umbria that opens with dynamic cherry fruit and sweet and power. The wine boasts thick natural density and 93 Adige); $NA. From the extraordinary Punggl spice aromas. You’ll recognize immediate tones of clove there’s a bright note of zesty spice on the close. vineyard cru south of the town of Magrè at an altitude and cinnamon wrapped within chewy black fruit. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. of 790 feet above sea level, this rich, luscious and Imported by North Berkeley Imports. —M.L. refined Merlot is simply gorgeous. The mouthfeel is Mastroberardino 2009 Mastro (Campania); soft, silky and rich and the high altitude has helped to Castello di Luzzano 2006 Romeo Riserva 87 $NA. A super Campania blend of Coda di shape aromatic brightness and overall intensity. Beauti- 88 (Gutturnio Colli Piacentini); $38. This Ris- Volpe, Fiano, Greco and Falanghina (basically all of the ful. Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. erva blend of and Bonarda offers loads of region’s white indigenous grapes), Mastro is a fabu- bright fruit with layers of white cherry, cassis, crushed lously crisp, cheerful and enjoyable wine. It drinks like Alois Lageder 2006 Lindenburg Lagrein peppercorn and dried violets. There is a sour point on a charm with a no-fuss, direct approach. Imported by 89 (Alto Adige); $40. Lagrein is an indigenous the close that suggests a pairing with a cream or cheese- Winebow. —M.L. grape of the far north of Italy that remains deeply rooted based dish. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. in the hearts and history of the people who live there. Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Lacryma This expression by the super-fussy and meticulous Alois Rivera 2008 Rupicolo(Castel del Monte); 86 Christi del Vesuvio; $17. From vineyards Lageder shows beautiful harmony and bright fruit aro- 87 $12. Made with a 70-30 blend of near the dangerous Vesuvius volcano, this crisp white mas followed by spice and chewy ripeness in the mouth. and Nero di Troia grapes (the first adds softness and the wine is direct, clean, easy-going and food friendly. It Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. latter gives structure), Rupicolo is a bargain buy and a opens with citrus, tangerine and stone fruit aromas. great pairing partner to oven-roasted pasta or meatloaf. Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.L. Alois Lageder 2005 Lindenburg Lagrein It’s an easygoing wine but its natural density and sunny 88 (Alto Adige); $40. Lagrein is a unique indige- insides help give it a modern, New World feel. Imported Taverna 2009 Dry Muscat (Basilicata); nous grape from northern Italy that offers plump, fruit- by Bedford International. Best Buy. —M.L. 86 $NA. Handpicked Moscato Giallo grapes are forward aromas and smooth richness in the mouth. This vinified as a dry white wine that opens with intensely expression delivers all that within a very elegant and Drei Donà 2009 Rosenere (Forlì); $NA. This fragrant aromas of peach, honeysuckle, papaya and pristine context. Pair this wine with bean and barely 85 easy food wine (a blend of Sangiovese and mango. The nose is really beautiful and the mouthfeel soup or veal stew. Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Cabernet Sauvignon) offers aromas of wild berry and is indeed dry and simple with a touch of zest and sour Direct. —M.L. white almond. There’s a nice balance between crisp- spice on the close. —M.L. ness and a touch of sweetness on the close. —M.L. Cantina Terlano 2009 Pinot Nero (Alto Trabucco 2008 16 Marzo (Falerno del Mas- 88 Adige); $NA. Pinot Nero (or Blauburgunder Vino dei Fratelli 2008 Montepulciano 86 sico); $NA. This is an herbal, floral white wine as the Italian-German label reads) from the bicultural 84 d’Abruzzo; $12. This easy Montepulciano with aromas that span from dried hay to pungent lemon and bilingual Alto Adige region of northern Italy d’Abruzzo opens with ripe, jammy aromas of black blossom. It seems to give the best of itself on the bou- exhibits some of its finest and most elegant characteris- cherry, blackberry pie and moist pipe tobacco. The quet, because in the mouth, this wine is fresh, compact tics here. This bottle opens with delicate embroidery of wine is soft, slightly sweet and well structured on the and very easygoing. —M.L. tiny berry nuances followed by beautiful freshness and close. Imported by Quintessential Wines. —M.L.

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 La Canosa 2008 Servator Passerina exhibits some normal eucalyptus on the nose along with OTHER ITALIAN 85 (Marche); $NA. Passerina is a little-known spice and pointed, slightly piercing berry aromas. The grape from central Italy that offers good structure and palate is chewy, sweet, modern and ripe, with chunky WHITES density in the mouth. It’s not necessarily aromatic, but it berry, herb, olive and particularly graphite flavors. Set- does offer tones of almond skin, butterscotch and tles on big black fruit and depth. Outstanding Chilean NORTHEAST ITALY Golden Delicious apple. —M.L. Cabernet with individuality. Best from 2013-2016. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. Tiefenbrunner 2009 Feldmarschall von Umberto Cesari 2009 Moma (Rubicone); 88 Fenner Müller-Thurgau (Vigneti delle 84 $17. Here’s a cheerful, no-fuss white blend from Errazuriz 2008 Viñedo Chadwick (Maipo Dolomiti); $NA. Dedicated to local hero Feld- central Italy (with , Chardonnay and Sauvi- 92 Valley); $260. Round, dark and impressive, marschall von Fenner who fought against Napoleon, gnon Blanc grapes) that would pair with informal rice or with deep berry aromas, minerality, smokiness and a this golden Müller Thurgau opens with bold notes of pasta salad. Citrus, floral and peach flavors wash over hint of herbs and tomato. The palate is jammy and rich, Golden Delicious apple, pear, honey and mature the palate. Imported by Bedford International. —M.L. what you might call syrupy, but there’s still plenty of melon. The wine is smooth and rich with tangy sweet spine and structure. Tastes rich, jammy and masculine, Bigi 2009 Amabile (Orvieto Classico); $11. with blackberry, coffee and spice notes. Drink now notes on the finale. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. 83 Here’s a sweet white wine (the term Amabile through 2017. Imported by Vintus LLC. —M.S. Tenuta Luisa 2009 Friulano (Isonzo del refers to the high sugar content) that opens with com- pelling notes of honey, acacia flower, peach and yellow Concha y Toro 2009 Marques de Casa Con- Friuli); $22. Friulano is a wonderfully unique 87 candy. It’s hard to imagine what to pair it with: It could cha Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); indigenous grape from northern Italy that deserves more 91 either go with fruit salad or salty crackers with cheese. $22. A real beauty with graphite, minerality and rich, attention among those searching for a food-friendly Imported by Opici Wines. —M.L. clean, exciting berry fruit and controlled oak aromas. white wine with personality, persistency and staying Very pure and stylish Cabernet Sauvignon with fat but power. This expression offers a lighthearted interpreta- SPARKLING WINES balanced cassis and sweet berry flavors. Big tannins tion with aromas of yellow rose, almond skin, stone fruit lend structure and framework; young like a baby now; and melon. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. Cesarini Sforza NV Tridentum Brut Rosé will be better and more evolved come fall, winter and 90 Pinot Nero (Trento); $24. This luminous and over the next few years. Imported by Banfi Vintners. CENTRAL ITALY delicately pink sparkling wine from northern Italy deliv- Editors’ Choice. —M.S. ers elegant notes of stone fruit, pink grapefruit, Masciarelli 2007 Castello di Semivicoli chopped almond and freshly baked bread. Zesty acidity Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) 91 (Trebbiano d’Abruzzo); $50. Named for a is backed by creamy, persistent perlage. Imported by 91 2008 Le Dix de Los Vascos (Colchagua Val- beautifully restored castle and boutique hotel in F&F Fine Wines International. —M.L. ley); $50. For full review see page 5. Imported by Abruzzo, this beautiful Italian white (made with Treb- Pasternak Wine Imports. biano grapes) shows a delicious creamy texture with Banfi NV Brut (Italy); $NA. Guests of Castello abundant aromas of stone fruit, honey and toasted 88 Banfi in Tuscany on a hot summer day are some- Santa Rita 2008 Medalla Real Cabernet almond. The wine is thick and textured on the close. times greeted with a glass of this classic method sparkling 91 Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $20. For full Imported by Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.L. wine. If ever there was a perfect pairing of wine to place, review see page 5. Editors’ Choice. this lighthearted, fresh and smooth sparkler would be it. Cantina Novelli 2009 Pecorino (Umbria); Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.L. Apaltagua 2008 Signature Cabernet 88 $NA. Light and luminous with bright aromas 90 Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $30. Lively, fresh of yellow flower, peach and exotic fruit, this is a beauti- Vigne Regali NV Pinot Brut (Italy); $NA. and spicy, with deep cassis and berry aromas. The ful and powerful expression of Pecorino. This native 86 Here’s an easy sparkling blend of Pinot Nero palate is a bit angular and bumpy in feel, but there’s no grape of central Italy is coming up in the world of and Pinot from Lombardy’s Oltrepò Pavese area in issue with the wine’s berry, cassis and lightly herbal fla- indigenous wines and offers a new experience for those northern Italy that shows cheerful but informal aromas vors. Finishes long, with elegance and balance. Drink seeking the offbeat. Imported by Vinvino Wine. —M.L. of cut grass, field flower, honey and stone fruit. now through 2014. Imported by Global Vineyard Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.L. Importers. —M.S. Fazi Battaglia 2007 Massaccio (Verdicchio 88 dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore); Caliboro Estate 2006 Erasmo (Maule Val- ley); $30. A little lean and fiery from nose to $NA. Massaccio is a beautiful expression of Verdicchio CHILEAN REDS 90 tail, but amid all the heavyweights coming from Chile that focuses on ripe aromas of candied or exotic fruit, CABERNETS & BLENDS that might be a good thing. The palate is tight, acidic toasted almond and apricot. It’s engineered as a bigger, and fresh, with an Old World mouthfeel and flavors of smoother and softer wine to pair with creamy chicken Almaviva 2007 Red Wine (Puente Alto); dried berry, earth, tobacco and spice. Snappy and crisp dishes. Imported by Admiral Imports. —M.L. 93 $75. Dark, toasty and minerally to start with, on the finish, with a final wave of propelling acidity. then throw in some olive, herb and cassis and it’s pure Drink now through 2014. Imported by Palm Bay Inter- Casale del Giglio 2009 Satrico (Lazio); $16. Maipo Cabernet at its best. The palate is deep, layered national. —M.S. 87 This easy blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon and and lush, with a smooth, elegant yet lusty flow of cassis, Trebbiano gets its name from the ancient Roman city of berry, olive and herbal flavors. Fine on the finish, with Cousiño-Macul 2006 Lota Cabernet Sauvi- Satricum. The wine opens with a luminous golden color mild barrel-influenced chocolate. Ready to drink but 90 gnon (Maipo Valley); $85. Displays a lot of and bright aromas of stone fruit, melon and almond could be cellared for another 4–5 years. Imported by Macul-driven eucalyptus on the nose, but also leather, skin. Imported by Soilair Selection. —M.L. Diageo Chateau & Estates. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. licorice and herb aromas. The color is dark, and the structure and tannins are both firm. Tastes of powerful Cantina Tudernum 2009 Grechetto di Todi Santa Rita 2007 Casa Real Cabernet Sauvi- cassis and blackberry and shows concentration. Finishes 85 (Colli Martani); $NA. From the Todi area of 93 gnon (Maipo Valley); $75. For full review thick, smooth and a touch syrupy. Drink now through central Italy, this golden Grechetto opens with thick see page 4. Editors’ Choice. 2014. Imported by Winebow. —M.S. aromas of apricot, honey, butterscotch and mature melon. The wine sports a thick, creamy mouthfeel and Domus Aurea 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Haras 2007 Elegance (Maipo Valley); $62. would pair with pumpkin risotto. —M.L. 92 (Maipo Valley); $60. Hails from Macul, so it 90 Dark and earthy up front, with aromas of black-

WineMag.com | 27 BUYING I GUIDE berry, hard spices and fresh tomato. The palate is O. Fournier 2009 Urban Maule Cabernet Morandé 2009 Pionero Cabernet Sauvi- jammy and deep, with brimming tannins supporting 87 Sauvignon (Maule Valley); $13. A nice 85 gnon (Maipo Valley); $8. Dry and reedy earthy, woodsy flavors of blackberry, moss and licorice. Cabernet for everyday usage largely because it’s bal- smelling, with juicy berry-cherry aromas and flavors. Flattens out somewhat on the finish, turning heavier anced, mild and under total control. The nose is pure The wine is snappy, zesty and juicy, with accents of and more rich. Drink over the next two years. Imported red fruits with a touch of leather, while the palate is cocoa and pepper. Clean, simple Cabernet with ample by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.S. snappy, alert and full of tight, almost narrow cherry fla- pop and freshness. Imported by Morande USA. Best vors and fine tannins. Dry and light on the finish. Buy. —M.S. El Huique 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. 89 (Colchagua Valley); $13. Bright and zesty Odfjell 2009 Armador Cabernet Sauvi- raspberry aromas bring a hint of leather and cheese. Santa Alicia 2008 Gran Reserva de los 85 gnon (Maipo Valley); $12. A bit sharp and The palate is creamy and solid, with sweet, lightly can- 87 Andes Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Val- rubbery at first, with herbal, floral, berry aromas rising died flavors of red berry and cassis. Finishes with grav- ley); $15. Cassis, olive and a hint of nail polish make up in due time. The palate is a little rigid, with angular itas and balance as well as perky cherry and raspberry for a solid, Chilean-style nose. The palate has a firm, acidity and semitart raspberry and red currant flavors. flavors. Imported by Vidalco International, LLC. Best juicy feel and nice flavors of raspberry and plum fol- Lightly toasted on the finish even if there’s not much Buy. —M.S. lowed by secondary notes of woodspice and vanilla. oak on this regular, competent CS. Imported by Select Peppery and a little resiny on the finish. Imported by Fine Wine. —M.S. François Lurton 2008 Gran Araucano Halby Marketing. —M.S. 89 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley); Quasar 2007 Gran Reserva Cabernet $35. Warm, baked and dusty on the nose, with black Undurraga 2009 Aliwen Reserva Cabernet 85 Sauvignon (Central Valley); $10. A little cherry and cassis along with brick dust, olive and spice 87 Sauvignon-Syrah (Rapel Valley); $12. Nice minty, raisiny and flat on the nose, but still it’s appeal- aromas. The palate is healthy and full, with punchy, aromas of floral berry, creamy vanilla and smoky spice ing. The palate has a condensed, syrupy feel and soft, snappy flavors of cherry, raspberry and spiced mar- work well. The palate is zesty, tight and forward, with semisweet flavors of red berry mixed with herbs and malade. Creamy, sweet and rooty on the finish. Drink saucy red berry flavors and olive. Long, zingy, zesty and pepper. Spicy and a touch hollow on the finish, but still now through 2015. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. saucy on the finish, with herbs, spice and chocolaty fla- a good value Cab to drink now. Imported by Ace Dis- Best Buy. vors. A nice and eager blend of 60% CS and 40% Syrah. tributing. —M.S. Santa Carolina 2008 Reserva de Familia Imported by Vision Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —M.S. Odfjell 2009 Babor Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $20. 89 (Maipo Valley); $8. Light berry, cheese and Perfectly good and very much as expected. The nose is Undurraga 2006 Founder’s Collection 84 spice aromas are just clean enough; the palate is solid firm, crusty and a bit herbal in that patented Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $40. 87 and well built for an $8 Cab, with chunky, candied, way. The flavors are a mix of dark berry, cassis, herbs Fairly earthy on the nose, with some compost and leafi- herbal flavors of plum and berry. Finishes dry and and medicinality, while the mouthfeel is solid. Very nice ness to go with chunky berry fruit aromas. The palate is mostly clean. Delivers what you expect and probably a Cabernet for the money; the only quibble is that it’s full, simple, chunky and a touch choppy, with cherry, little more. Imported by Select Fine Wine. Best Buy. highly regular and not all that individual or unique. raspberry and vanilla flavors. Creamy if a bit sticky on —M.S. Imported by Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. the finish, but mature and ready to drink. Imported by Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. Tamaya 2009 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon Errazuriz 2009 Single Vineyard Don Max- (Limarí Valley); $17. A strange bird from the imiano Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Vistamar 2007 Gran Reserva Cabernet 84 88 northern Limarí Valley, which just might be too cool (Aconcagua Valley); $21. Big, herbal and rich on the Sauvignon-Syrah (Maipo Valley); $20. Berry, 87 and windy for fully ripe Cab. This is hard and a bit nose, with minerality and a lot of olive and black-fruit hickory and milk chocolate aromas yield smoky darkness chemical on the nose, and then scratchy and clipped in aromas. The palate is round, full-bodied and chewy, with candied sweetness. The palate is staunch, but those the mouth, with herbal cherry and black plum flavors with ample oak, herbal flavors and blackberry. Tasty, chocolate and berry flavors hinted at up front reappear along with a fair amount of minty green. Imported by robust and not short on oak and herbal notes. In a and finish in medicinal fashion. A sweet and creamy wine Ecovalley Quality Wine Group and National Refrescos word, it’s Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon. Imported by but also one that’s hard and tannic. 70% Cab with 30% Import Company, LLC.—M.S. Vintus LLC. —M.S. Syrah. Imported by Morande USA. —M.S.

Santa Rita 2008 Reserva Cabernet Sauvi- Misiones de Rengo 2009 Reserva Caber- CARMENÈRE 88 gnon (Maipo Valley); $12. For full review 86 net Sauvignon-Syrah (Rapel Valley); $13. see page 8. Best Buy. Meaty and roasted on the nose, with rubbery plum and De Martino 2009 Alto de Piedras Single blackberry aromas. This is a full-force wine with clacky, 90 Vineyard Carmenère (Maipo Valley); $45. A Botalcura 2006 La Porfia Grand Reserve firm tannins and herbal flavors of cassis and dark berry. big, earthy type of wine with a ton of ripeness and heft. 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rapel Valley); $21. Finishes roasted, with an herbal character. Lively but Smells like pure black olive, earth and smoked meat. Earthy and dry on the bouquet, but there’s an appealing coarse feeling. Imported by Total Beverage Solution. The palate is tight but friendly as it delivers big doses of subtlety to the nose that works. The palate is snappy —M.S. herb, tea, chocolate and black fruit flavors. About as and edgy, with juicy, lightly herbal raspberry flavors. deep and long in the mouth as this variety gets; proof Finishes on the tight and light side, with a touch of Morandé 2009 Reserva Cabernet Sauvi- that Maipo can produce the occasional excellent Car- green. Good wine but could use a boost of ripeness. 86 gnon (Maipo Valley); $11. After a murky, menère. Imported by Opici Wines. —M.S. Imported by Specialty Cellars. —M.S. rubbery opening, it finds its slot, which is standard-issue red-berry aromas and flavors. On the edges there are Santa Alicia 2008 Gran Reserva de los Caliterra 2009 Bio-Sur Cabernet Sauvi- notes of pepper, herbs, vanilla and cocoa. Fresh, 88 Andes Carmenère (Maipo Valley); $15. 87 gnon (Colchagua Valley); $14. A touch snappy, juicy wine. Seems complete and solid. Dark cherry, berry and a certain level of sweetness give syrupy and saucy on first blush, with a full, healthy, ripe Imported by Morande USA. Best Buy. —M.S. this wine a ripe opening. The palate is fruity and a palate that’s typically Chilean due to herb, berry and touch buttery due to full oak, while the flavors are also leather flavors. Sound, smooth and driven on the finish, Vistamar 2009 Sepia Reserva Cabernet oaky but fold in spice, carob and berry flavors. Dry and with overall good vibrations for an . 86 Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $10. For full peppery on the finish. Imported by Halby Marketing. Imported by Buena Cepa Wines. —M.S. review see page 9. Best Buy. —M.S.

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 Viña Bisquertt 2008 Ecos de Rulo Car- Chilensis 2009 Reserva Malbec (Maule Val- 87 menère (Colchagua Valley); $17. Opens CARIGNAN 85 ley); $12. Purple in color, with grapey aromas with ample black fruit and coconutty oak aromas, herbs that lack complexity. The palate is deep and dense but and black pepper dust. The palate has a fairly refined Oveja Negra 2008 Single Vineyard Carig- edgy, with sugary flavors of candied black plum and feel along with flavors of candied black fruits, coffee, 88 nan (Maule Valley); $18. Meaty and staunch black cherry. Finishes sweet like burnt brown sugar, coconut and pepper. Finishes with a creamy, lactic oak on the nose, with a slight soupy quality to go with straw- with some coffee and anisette. Syrupy but generous. influence. Imported by Prestige Wine Group. —M.S. berry and raspberry aromas. The palate is thick and Imported by Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. sturdy, with earthy, old-school flavors of berry fruits, De Martino 2008 Legado Reserva Car- mineral and dry earth. Finishes slightly baked and Calcu 2009 Malbec (Colchagua Valley); 86 menère (Maipo Valley); $16. Herb, toasty sweet. Another good old-vines (40 years) Carignan from 83 $12. A funky nose of wet dog and medicinal oak, mineral and berry aromas precede a snappy, crisp Maule. Imported by Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. cherry is no place you want to begin. The palate is high sort of palate that’s showing mostly herbal, toasty flavors in acidity and scratchy, with tart plum, berry and cheek- of red berry and plum. The wine is good but regular in Santa Carolina 2008 Dry Farming Special- starching tannins. Tastes reasonably good but fails in its approach, with a dry, peppery finish. Imported by ties Carignan (Cauquenes Valley); $15. the bouquet and mouthfeel departments. Imported by Opici Wines. —M.S. 88 Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. Black olive and lightly baked berry and cassis aromas honestly reflect the wine’s Cauquenes old-vines roots. El Huique 2008 Reserve Carmenère (Colch- The mouth is tight, granular and jammy, with bold fla- agua Valley); $18. Leafy and a bit sharp MERLOT 85 vors of raisin, plum and berry. This is pretty rich and smelling, with hints of turned earth and compost along red-fruited, with a sweet side and controlled medicinal with fuller berry notes. The palate is round and healthy, TerraNoble 2008 Gran Reserva Merlot with candied raspberry, plum and herbal flavors. Fin- touches. Imported by QW Wine Experts. —M.S. 87 (Maule Valley); $18. Like all Terranoble reds, ishes herbal and dry. Imported by Vidalco International, this begins with charred, lemony aromas of burnt toast, Undurraga 2008 T.H. Carignan (Maule Val- LLC. —M.S. black coffee and smoke. As the oak blows off, it reveals ley); $20. 88 Floral and smoky, with elegance and an underbelly of black fruit, floral notes and exotic spices. Miguel Torres 2009 Santa Digna Reserve mineral components to the nose. From 60-year-old dry- It’s deep and meaty, with blackberry and black cherry 85 Carmenère (Central Valley); $10. For full farmed vineyards in Maule, this is punchy and acidic, flavors. Finishes earthy and herbal, with black olive and review see page 9. Best Buy. but also full of bright cassis, red plum and cherry fla- chocolate flavors. Imported by Winebow. —M.S. vors. Creamy oak gives it a vanilla-like finish, and over- Misiones de Rengo 2009 Reserva Car- all it’s more than solid but a little astringent and tart. Emiliana 2008 Eco Balance Merlot (Rapel 85 menère (Central Valley); $13. A little sharp Imported by Undurraga USA. —M.S. 86 Valley); $9. Flowery and herbal, with standard smelling, with earth, leafiness and rubbery aromas. In redberry aromas. Healthy and juicy, with herbal blue- the mouth, it’s round and fairly balanced, with juicy Meli 2008 Carignan (Maule Valley); $15. berry, blackberry and chocolate flavors. Finishes with a acidity and herbal-olive flavors along with blackberry. 86 Olive, herbs and baked berry aromas vie with final dose of herbal character, earth and good layering Dark and herbal on the finish. Imported by Total Bev- slightly stemmy scents to create a good but compro- and feel. Imported by Banfi Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S. erage Solution. —M.S. mised bouquet. The palate has a full feel and juiciness along with medicinal cherry and berry flavors. Finishes Emiliana 2009 Natura Merlot (Rapel Val- Odfjell 2009 Armador Carmenère (Maipo toasty, baked and somewhat sharp and herbal. 85 ley); $11. Fairly hard on the nose, with a hint 85 Valley); $12. More herbal and plodding than Imported by Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. of plastic and then raspberry and plum aromas rising as prior vintages, with slightly pickled, briney flavors of it settles. The palate shows decent zest and body along blackberry, plum, olive and cough drop. Good in the with narrow flavors of berry and pepper. Finishes with mouth, with proper size and balance. Finishes a little MALBEC mild intensity and a note of saline. Imported by Banfi green and peppery, but that’s Carmenère, folks, like it Vintners. —M.S. or leave it. Imported by Select Fine Wine. —M.S. Santa Helena 2008 Vernus Malbec (Colch- 88 agua Valley); $17. A little oaky and leathery at Morandé 2008 Gran Reserva Merlot Caliterra 2009 Bio-Sur Carmenère (Colch- (Maipo Valley); $16. first, but as a whole this wine sings a nice song. The 85 Big, oaky and roasted up agua Valley); $14. 84 Sweaty and murky palate is firm and structured, with a lot of forward oak front, with charred aromas. The palate is full but clacky, smelling, with leather, horse and earthy berry aromas. as well as juicy wild blackberry flavors. Lightly roasted with piercing acidity leading to a saucy, sharp set of The palate is big and dense, with grabby tannins and tangy red berry and herb flavors. There’s a chocolaty and salinic on the finish, with length. Imported by Misa then herbal, roasted berry flavors with green notes. Fin- element to smooth things out on the finish, but it’s Imports. —M.S. ishes peppery and mildly green. An herbal, old-style always snappy and sheer. Imported by Morande USA. Carmenère. Imported by Buena Cepa Wines. —M.S. —M.S. Viña Pérez Cruz 2009 Cot Limited Edition Malbec (Maipo Valley); $20. El Huique 2008 Carmenère (Colchagua 88 Interesting Santa Alicia 2008 Gran Reserva de los largely because it’s Malbec (or Cot). Aromas of fine herbs 84 Valley); $13. Fairly rubbery and funky on the 85 Andes Merlot (Maipo Valley); $15. Warm, nose, with a juicy, edgy palate that sports tangy, herbal and purple flowers are light and elegant; the palate is earthy and baked smelling, with aromas of black olive cherry and raspberry flavors in front of a high-acid, weightless and smooth, with redfruit flavors and choco- and herbal raspberry fruit. The palate is tight, regular, tangy and mildly bitter finish. Choppy and herbal, but late notes. Finishes soft and creamy; drink now. acidic and snappy, with sweet, herbal cherry flavors. still a decent rendition of Carmenère. Imported by Imported by South American Wine Importers. —M.S. Finishes with hints of olive and green herbs. Imported Vidalco International, LLC. —M.S. by Halby Marketing. —M.S. Lomas del Valle 2010 Unfiltered Malbec Cantora 2009 Carmenère (Colchagua Val- 86 (Casablanca Valley); $16. Overall this is one Santa Rita 2008 Reserva Merlot (Maipo 83 ley); $10. The nose is herbal and drawn but concentrated, hefty, grapey youngster that’s unfiltered 85 Valley); $12. Leafy, dry and earthy on the nose, offers varietally correct cherry, berry and spice aromas. and untamed. The palate is lush, heavy and tannic, with a hint of flowery red fruit. The palate rings with The wine runs ultracrisp and sheering in the mouth, while the flavors are grapey and saturated. Finishes sharp acidity, which livens up blackberry, herb, black with tart redfruit and herbal flavors of olive and mint. with chunky dark berry flavors as elegance and timidity tea and carob flavors. Shows a lot of wayward, uninte- Seems more sharp and acidic than ideal. Imported by are nowhere to be found. Imported by GOS Wines and grated oak on the finish but stays bright due to juicy Matadorvino LLC. —M.S. BMC Imports.—M.S. acidity. Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.S.

WineMag.com | 29 BUYING I GUIDE

Odfjell 2009 Armador Merlot (Maipo Val- thick, with baked, herbal flavors of raspberry and straw- Tamaya 2009 Winemaker’s Selection Sin- 84 ley); $12. Sharp on the nose, with herbal, cab- berry. Falls off on the finish, where a bit of green enters 86 gle Vineyard Syrah (Limarí Valley); $18. bage-like aromas. The palate is better, albeit rubbery in the picture. Imported by Winebow. —M.S. Starts out mulchy and a little horsey before fine leather, feel and infiltrated by bitter notes. Along the way, floral and sweet berry aromas take over. The palate is there’s reasonably good berry fruit and then a piquant Undurraga 2009 T.H. Pinot Noir (Leyda jumpy and lively, with boysenberry, raspberry and bite to the finish. Improves with airing; has its merits. 85 Valley); $25. The first Pinot in Undurraga’s earthy flavors. Ripe and fruity, with snappy freshness Imported by Select Fine Wine. —M.S. Terroir Hunter series is lean, tart and zesty, but also and candied, sappy red-fruit length. Imported by Ecov- clean and pleasing in its own right. Tea and dried cherry alley Quality Wine Group and National Refrescos Miguel Torres 2009 Santa Digna Reserve aromas yield to a spunky, lean palate of sharp raspberry Import Company, LLC. Imported by Tamaya. —M.S. 83 Merlot (Central Valley); $10. Leafy cherry and orange peel flavors. Finishes light but clean, with aromas are herbal and a bit muddy. The palate is scratchy tartness. Imported by Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. Undurraga 2009 T.H. Syrah (Leyda Valley); and on the heavy side, with candied, woody berry fla- 86 $25. The essence of cool-climate Chilean Syrah vors. Feels a little syrupy and medicinal; basic on its best SYRAH/SHIRAZ is on display and arguably goes overboard with this day. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. sheer, tart, acid-dominated Leyda wine. It’s floral and Concha y Toro 2009 Marques de Casa Con- slightly medicinal smelling, with a sheer palate and tart, Viña el Aromo 2009 Private Reserve Mer- 89 cha Syrah (Maipo Valley); $22. This rich yet foxy flavors of red berry and pie cherry. Finishes with 81 lot (Maule Valley); $13. Opens with acrid, direct Syrah hails from CyT’s Buin vineyards. It’s a dark, oceanic saltiness and a dusting of cocoa. Imported by rubbery aromas. The mouth shows astringency and chewy, lush style of New World Syrah with chunky, Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. generic, rubbery berry fruit. Finishes with burnt fla- sweet blackberry and mocha flavors that result from vors and bitterness. Ultimately it’s bringing the mini- ripe Maipo fruit and generous oak. Very likable but sim- Caliterra 2009 Bio-Sur Shiraz (Colchagua mum in terms of what’s expected. Imported by Simone ple, without much of the leather, spice and animal that 85 Valley); $14. Dark, muscular and concen- International. —M.S. Old World Syrah is known for. Imported by Banfi Vint- trated, with char, rubber and blackberry aromas. Thick ners. —M.S. but not soupy, with big tannins and firm acids. Flavors Indomita 2009 Selected Varietal Merlot of blackberry, cassis and dark plum are drawn, leaving 80 (Maipo Valley); $12. Green and funky Errazuriz 2009 Single Vineyard Don Max- an oaky, minty finish. A good but arguably overex- smelling, with a grassy, tomato character. Sticky and 88 imiano Estate Syrah (Aconcagua Valley); tracted organic Shiraz. Imported by Buena Cepa unctuous on the palate, with a strange, weedy set of $21. A strong oak covering gives the wine a bouquet of Wines. —M.S. red fruit flavors. Finishes creamy and weak; barely milk chocolate, cream, vanilla and olive. It’s thick in the acceptable but still not fresh or well balanced. Caliterra 2009 Reserva Shiraz (Colchagua mouth, with a round, stout palate that’s full of dark Imported by David Milligan Selections. —M.S. Valley); $NA. Warm and rubbery on the nose, berry flavors and jamminess. Baked, toasty and ripe on 85 with earthy aromas of blackberry, black cherry and the finish, with chewy density and meaty, herbal lasting freshly laid blacktop. The palate is full, tannic and impressions. Imported by Vintus LLC. —M.S. PINOT NOIR grapey, with dark fruit flavors and an herbal element. Finishes short, herbal and salty, with lasting meatiness. Arboleda 2009 Syrah (Aconcagua Valley); Kingston Family 2009 Alazan Pinot Noir Imported by Buena Cepa Wines. —M.S. $19. Sweet, jammy and friendly on the nose, (Casablanca Valley); $30. Always at the top of 87 90 with a bit of herbs, olive and leather. The palate is firm the Chilean Pinot heap is this true, complex wine from Veo 2008 Ultima Reserve Syrah (Colch- and healthy, with some oaky residue along with jammy, Kingston Family. The nose features light raspberry, cit- agua Valley); $10. Standard value-priced grainy blackberry, baked plum and bitter chocolate fla- 85 rus, oceanic brine and toasty, creamy oak. The palate is Chilean Syrah in that it’s herbal and leafy on the nose, vors. Sweet and chewy in terms of feel, with a nicely lush and rolls across the tongue with ease; ripe fruit in with a mix of olive, earth, spice and dried red fruit aro- baked overall character. Imported by Frederick Wild- the cherry zone along with cocoa and spice make for mas. The palate is a bit stretched out and tannic, while fine flavors. Finishes with purity, smooth tannins and man & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. the flavor profile is pure olive, herbs and dried cherry. herbal twinges. Imported by Kingston Family Vine- Finishes solid but herbal. Imported by Prestige Wine Los Molles 2009 Reserva Syrah (Limarí Val- yards. —M.S. Group. Best Buy. —M.S. 87 ley); $16. Starts out a little sharp and heavy on Matetic 2009 Corralillo Pinot Noir (San the olive aromas, but it brings enough freshness to over- Corinto 2009 Selection Syrah (Central Val- 89 Antonio); $28. Bold, dark and rubbery on the ride any roasted, herbal qualities that come with the 80 ley); $16. Smells strange, as if juniper berries nose, with a hint of citrus to go with black cherry. This variety. The palate is big and chunky, with sweet, jammy were blended with tomato and weedy red fruits. is full, thorough and upstanding on the palate, with black fruit flavors. Long, chocolaty and slightly herbal on Scratchy and herbal in the mouth, with game and other black fruit, licorice and cocoa flavors. Comes across the finish. Imported by The Artisan Collection. —M.S. oddball flavors. Finishes gummy and confected, with a sweet and rich but balanced, with a layered, long finish. final blast of green herbs and weeds. Imported by Spe- Imported by Quintessential Wines. —M.S. Emiliana 2009 Natura Syrah (Rapel Valley); cialty Cellars. —M.S. 86 $11. Inky and tight smelling, with rubbery Kingston Family 2009 Alazan CJ’s Barrel black-fruit aromas. The palate is full, tannic and a little 88 Pinot Noir (Casablanca Valley); $32. This choppy, but the flavors of olive, blackberry, black cherry OTHER REDS wine carries the same citrus and tea aromas as the regu- and herbs are good. Finishes rustic and a touch salty, lar Alazan bottling, but in the mouth it’s heavier and leans with good bounce and verve. Imported by Banfi Vint- Undurraga 2007 Altazor (Maipo Valley); toward overripe. Chewy, dark raspberry and cassis flavors ners. Best Buy. —M.S. 91 $60. A big, syrupy five-grape blend that delivers lead to a sweet, chunky finish with licorice, pepper and a the full allotment of baked, ripe berry aromas followed bit of heat. Very nice but the Alazan is better balanced. Tamaya 2009 Reserva Syrah (Limarí Val- by a firm, tannic palate housing serious flavors of black- Imported by Kingston Family Vineyards. —M.S. 86 ley); $16. Floral aromas come with hints of berry, eucalyptus, olive and mineral. Very long and lay- leather and rubber. The palate is fleshy and nicely bal- ered on the finish, with acidic zest to keep it pulsing. Leyda 2009 Lot 21 Pinot Noir (Leyda Val- anced, while the flavors are a shy, miserly mix of saline, Drink now through 2015. Imported by Vision Wine & 86 ley); $35. Other than a slightly burnt and earth, berry and olive. Finishes with an herbal-olive Spirits. —M.S. stemmy nose, this is a nice Chilean Pinot. The bouquet note and overall modesty. Imported by Ecovalley Qual- deals tea, raspberry and crushed leaves, but as stated, ity Wine Group and National Refrescos Import Com- Errazuriz 2008 The Blend Limited Edition also some burned rhubarb. Feels slightly syrupy and pany, LLC. —M.S. 90 (Aconcagua Valley); $35. Alluring on the

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 nose, with a ton of dried spice, mocha and tobacco aro- gnon, Carmenère, Malbec and Syrah. Imported by Spe- lasts on the finish and mixes the best of leesy weight mas to go with beefy, berry fruit notes. Despite its dark- cialty Cellars. —M.S. and tropicality. Imported by Vintus LLC. —M.S. ness and size, this wine delivers bright, juicy acidity and then herbal cassis and berry flavors. Tobacco, herbs and Las Lomas 2007 Malbec-Syrah (Maule Val- Chilcas 2010 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc length define the finish. A blend of five red grapes, 84 ley); $13. This unusual combo of Malbec and 88 (Casablanca Valley); $13. Pure grapefruit and including Mourvèdre and Petit Verdot; drink now Syrah starts with hickory and campfire aromas and then other citrus fruits make for an inviting bouquet. The through 2013. Imported by Vintus LLC. —M.S. medicinality enters the picture. The palate is choppy palate is pure, round, fresh and full of green melon, and features many holes in the road, but there’s also citrus and passion fruit flavors. Overall this is ripe but Chilcas 2008 Red One (Maule Valley); $25. solid black fruit flavors along with cocoa and berry properly green, with a hint of pithy lime and mineral on 89 Meaty, dark and concentrated, with a smoky syrup on the finish. In addition, the acidity seems high. the finish. Imported by Vici Wine and Spirits. Best bouquet that shows spice and berry aromas. The palate Imported by AMG Organic Imports, LLC. —M.S. Buy. —M.S. is soft, lush and deep, with heavy flavors of blackberry, tea, spice and pepper. Finishes easy and chocolaty, with Montes 2010 Classic Series Sauvignon good length and drive. Drink now through 2012. CHILE WHITES 88 Blanc (Casablanca Valley); $12. Lime, min- Imported by Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. eral and green herbs combine to create a nice aromatic SAUVIGNON BLANC opening. The palate is juicy and healthy, with flavors of Cousiño-Macul 2008 Finis Terrae (Maipo jalapeño, lime and green apple. Finishes solid and quite 88 Valley); $25. A serious, fairly rich wine with Casas del Bosque 2010 Pequeñas Produc- long for a basic SB. Well made and tasty. Imported by grippy tannins and typical Maipo aromas of herbs, 91 ciones Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Val- T.G.I.C. Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. tobacco and olive that meet at eucalyptus. Hails from ley); $25. Rare is the Chilean SB that rises high low-production old vines in Macul and Buin; the wine is enough to be called gorgeous, but this wine is just that. Odfjell 2010 Armador Sauvignon Blanc round and full in the mouth, with lightly roasted berry New Zealand-born winemaker Grant Phelps has 88 (Casablanca Valley); $12. Odfjell previously flavors and touches of sweet caramel and chocolate on crafted a bright, bold, citric Sauvignon that’s crisp as a struggled a bit with SB but this one is quite good and the finish. Imported by Winebow. —M.S. mountain stream and endowed with tangy, lovely flavors correct. It features green aromas of lime and herbs with of tangerine, lime, pineapple and green apple. Long some minerality folded in. The palate is zesty and lively, Santa Alicia 2006 Millantu (Maipo Valley); and delicious; a cut above the rest. Imported by with lime and green apple flavors. Finishes in direct 88 $28. Earthy and herbal on the nose, with a nice Vinocopia. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. fashion. Drink soon. Imported by Select Fine Wine. blanket of leather to add rusticity to the wine’s core Best Buy. —M.S. cherry and raspberry aromas. The palate is full, chewy Montes 2010 Limited Selection Sauvignon and a touch candied, with roasted berry, herb and choco- 90 Blanc (Leyda Valley); $15. This SB has one of Peñalolen 2010 Sauvignon Blanc late flavors. Finishes lightly roasted as well; drink now. Chile’s best track records for high quality. The nose and 88 (Casablanca Valley); $12. Clear, breezey tan- Imported by Select Brands International, Inc. —M.S. flavors both exceed norms, with the former showing gerine and grapefruit aromas roll out the red carpet on bold citrus, lime and melon aromas and the latter this crisp, citrusy SB that pours on the green fruit and François Lurton 2008 Hacienda Araucano revolving around grapefruit, lime and gooseberry. It’s scallion flavors. The palate is both round and crisp, and 87 Clos de Lolol (Lolol Valley); $23. An earthy, ripe, healthy, pithy, acid-driven and piercing. Summer the finish is long and juicy. For fresh, citrusy, varietally dense four-grape blend that issues floral, cherry aro- sipping calls. Imported by T.G.I.C. Importers. Best correct Sauvignon Blanc, it’s hard to do better. Imported mas in front of a creamy, candied palate that sports Buy. —M.S. by Global Vineyard Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. generic but nice plum, berry and cherry flavors. A smooth wine but one without much complexity; seems Casas del Bosque 2010 Reserva Sauvignon Quintay 2010 Clava Coastal Reserve Sauvi- to have lost some of its identity in the blending process. 89 Blanc (Casablanca Valley); $12. For full 88 gnon Blanc (Casablanca Valley); $10. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. review see page 8. Best Buy. Although it’s standard in many ways, sometimes regular- ity done right works. In this case, the wine brings tropical Oveja Negra 2008 The Lost Barrel (Maule Casas del Bosque 2010 Gran Reserva aromas along with saline and green herbs. In the mouth, 87 Valley); $25. Wiry on the nose, with herbal, 89 Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley); $16. it’s fresh and briney, with tropical fruit, citrus and green punchy, slightly strained red fruit aromas that suggest Piercing and pungent up front, with sharp-edged aro- notes. Tangy and pure; nice for the price. Imported by rhubarb. The palate is amorphous and standard, with mas of nettle, lime, arugula and green bean. The palate Montecastelli Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. lightly baked, mildly stewy blackberry and herbal fla- is lithe and crisp, with green-leaning flavors of lettuce, vors. On the finish, it’s pure tobacco, chocolate and cof- lime and passion fruit. Lasting on the finish, with bell Chilensis 2010 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc fee. Syrah, Carignan, Carmenère and Petit Verdot. pepper and celery. A prime example of cool-climate 87 (Casablanca Valley); $12. Light green aromas Imported by Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. Chilean SB. Imported by Vinocopia. —M.S. of melon and lime are nice, while the palate is solid and full of lime and pithy grapefruit flavors. Like many Viña Requingua 2009 Toro de Piedra Chilcas 2010 Single Vineyard Sauvignon Chilean SBs, this is salinic, citrusy and pithy, but also 86 Reserva Syrah-Cabernet (Curicó Valley); 89 Blanc (Casablanca Valley); $18. Clean on the round as well as clean. Drink right away. Imported by $14. Blackberry and balsam wood are the key aromas, nose, with pure citrus and minerality. It’s full but not Vici Wine and Spirits. Best Buy. —M.S. but there’s a pinch of cumin in there too. The palate is heavy in the mouth, with developed, mature flavors of wide, broad and tannic, with leathery, roasted flavors of grapefruit and other citrus fruits. Mildly pithy, green Cono Sur 2010 Visión Sauvignon Blanc dark berry and black plum. Finishes savory and a bit and long on the finish. Not a prima ballerina; this has 87 (Casablanca Valley); $15. Tropical fruits and salty, with a clacky, hard, tannic residue. Imported by force and strength along with elegance. Imported by a mix of grass and green herbs make for a nice bouquet. Puerto Viejo Wines. —M.S. Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. The palate on this Casablanca wine is juicy and round, not pointy, with citrus and nectarine flavors. Finishes Botalcura 2006 Cayao (Central Valley); Errazuriz 2010 Single Vineyard Sauvignon with green apple tang; definitely gets the job done. 85 $60. Rather hard and baked on the nose, with a 89 Blanc (Casablanca Valley); $16. Bright, Imported by Vineyard Brands. —M.S. heavy helping of char and molasses. The palate is angu- bursting aromatics of green apple, white peach and lar and tannic, while the flavors revolve around lemony summer grass are pungent yet controlled. The palate Emiliana 2010 Eco Balance Sauvignon oak and spice more than fruit. Spiky on the finish and has a fresh, friendly feel that supports papaya, passion 87 Blanc (Bío Bío Valley); $9. For full review see sharp-edged as a whole. A blend of Cabernet Sauvi- fruit and lime flavors. This is full of pop and typicity; it page 9. Best Buy

WineMag.com | 31 BUYING I GUIDE

Errazuriz 2010 Estate Sauvignon Blanc sheer, with flavors of Meyer lemon, white peach and the nose, with mineral, lemon, green banana and melon 87 (Casablanca Valley); $12. Snappy, crisp and apple. Pointed on the finish but clean. Good but normal aromas to ponder. The palate is full but low in acidity, green on the nose, but well balanced and showing the in the scheme of things. Imported by Morande USA. thus it’s soft and starting to fade. In the meantime, good side of Chilean SB, which is oceanic, fresh, green Best Buy. —M.S. there are woody, toasty flavors mixed with sweet pear and citrusy. Flavors of lime, grapefruit and passion fruit and banana on the finish. Imported by Huneeus Vint- are true, while the finish is fruity at first before breaking Yali 2010 Wetland Winemaker’s Selection ners. Best Buy. —M.S. up. Imported by Vintus LLC. Best Buy. —M.S. 86 Sauvignon Blanc (Rapel Valley); $8. Salinic and also melony on the mostly clean and crisp nose. Viña el Aromo 2009 Private Reserve Morandé 2010 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc The palate is healthy, with round, lightly pithy flavors of 87 Chardonnay (Maule Valley); $13. Aromas of 87 (Casablanca Valley); $11. For full review see green melon, peach and kiwi. Citrusy on the finish and lemon, buttercup and mild oak support core baked page 9. Best Buy. a little green on the fade out. Good for summer apple and vanilla flavors. The wine offers good mouth- quaffing. Drink this year. Imported by Austral Wines. feel and overall balance, while the finish is lightly Veramonte 2010 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc Best Buy. —M.S. woody, long and honest. For Chile this is a tasty, well- 87 (Casablanca Valley); $12. For as long as Chile made and balanced Chardonnay. Imported by Simone has been taken seriously for its SBs, Veramonte has been Santa Ema 2010 Selected Terroir Sauvi- International. —M.S. a value leader. This wine is a bit softer and less pungent 85 gnon Blanc (Maipo Valley); $10. Clean yet than previous efforts, but it’s still tangy and shows good dilute on the bouquet, with touches of lime and grassi- Cono Sur 2009 Organically Grown Grapes green apple and melony flavors. Finishes more flat and ness. The palate, however, is kind of heavy and hon- 86 Chardonnay (San Antonio); $13. Apple and fleshy than in the past, so drink right away. Imported by eyed, a direct reflection of its warm Maipo roots. Tastes peach aromas are on the spot. The body here is round Huneeus Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S. sweet and creamy but without much zesty fruit. Maybe and healthy, while the flavors are tropical leaning, with a little too soft and candied, but still pretty good. melon and peach in the background. Smooth and fresh Cono Sur 2010 Organically Grown Grapes Imported by T.G.I.C. Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. on the finish, and good as a whole. Imported by Vine- 86 Sauvignon Blanc (San Antonio); $13. Light, yard Brands. —M.S. mellow aromas don’t go much beyond green fruits and La Playa 2010 Estate Bottled Sauvignon orange blossom. Round and easy in the mouth, with 84 Blanc (Colchagua Valley); $7. Kind of bland Santa Ema 2009 Reserve Chardonnay melony, reluctant flavors of honeydew and peach. Lean and regular, but on the plus side it’s fresh, feline and 86 (Casablanca Valley); $14. Peachy and solid on the finish, with some jalapeño heat. Pretty much green, with lightly pickled gooseberry flavors. Fleshy on the nose, with a pinch of oak and white pepper. The average for Chilean Sauvignon Blanc. Imported by and wan on the palate but with no glaring issues or off palate is generally smooth, with sweet spiced apple and Vineyard Brands. —M.S. flavors. Drink now. Imported by Cabernet Corporation. pithy flavors. Banana, pith, vanilla and melon flavors Best Buy. —M.S. work the finish, which starts out strong then breaks up Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) on the fade. Imported by T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. 86 2010 Los Vascos Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley); $14. Pungent and sweaty CHARDONNAY Ventisquero 2009 Reserva Chardonnay smelling, with nettle and other sharp aromas. Surpris- 86 (Casablanca Valley); $10. Pretty good, sturdy ingly, the palate is short on acidity so there’s a flat feel Cono Sur 2010 Visión Block: Tío Leo Single and clean. The nose shows good white fruits and miner- along with green, salinic flavors that border on vegetal. 88 Vineyard Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley); ally notes, with a bit of toast. In the mouth, it’s healthy For proof, there’s a clear wave of asparagus to the fin- $15. Melony and tropical on the nose, which is stan- and sweet, with tropical flavors of melon and papaya ish. Not as good as in past years. Imported by Pasternak dard for Chile. The palate is smooth and extended, with along with creamy pear. Finishes sweet, with some Wine Imports. —M.S. citrus and green melon flavors. Finishes juicy, citrusy vanilla. Imported by Austral Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. and melony, with no shortage of fruit and not too much Emiliana 2010 Natura Sauvignon Blanc oak. Solid and enjoyable; drink as soon as possible. Santa Rita 2009 Reserva Chardonnay 86 (Casablanca Valley); $11. Pithy and citrusy Imported by Vineyard Brands. —M.S. 85 (Casablanca Valley); $12. Fleshy, melony on the nose, but ultimately it’s rather neutral. The scents kick it off. That set of aromas is followed by an palate is citric and lean, with orange, lemon and sour Emiliana 2010 Eco Balance Chardonnay acidic, lively palate with generic, slightly mealy flavors apple flavors. Zesty to the point of tartness, with a cit- 87 (Casablanca Valley); $9. Fleshy, melony and of peach, citrus and light oak. Long but a little bitter on rusy, juicy finish. A pointed SB with zing. Imported by tropical smelling, with a bit of warm radiator dust. The the finish, but with good acid-driven zest. Imported by Banfi Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S. palate is plump but maintains a level of freshness, zest Palm Bay International. —M.S. and clarity. Tastes citrusy up front and then shows a Loma Larga 2010 Sauvignon Blanc softer, more melony side. Quite good for under $10. Haras 2009 Chardonnay (Maipo Valley); 86 (Casablanca Valley); $15. Minerally on the Imported by Banfi Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S. 84 $12. Neutral on the nose except for some nose but also slightly pickled, with a wet but basic tast- apple and cheesy oak. The palate is angular and tangy, ing palate that is a touch dilute as it deals grapefruit Emiliana 2010 Natura Un-oaked Chardon- with cidery flavors. Finishes similarly, with lasting and lime flavors. Finishes clean, fruity and a bit sweet. 87 nay (Casablanca Valley); $11. For full review acidic bite and zest. Imported by Ste. Michelle Wine Imported by GOS Wines and BMC Imports. —M.S. see page 8. Best Buy. Estates. —M.S.

Lomas del Valle 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Emiliana 2010 Novas Limited Selection Chilensis 2009 Reserva Chardonnay 86 (Casablanca Valley); $13. Opens with aro- 87 Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley); $15. It’s 83 (Maule Valley); $12. Tropical notes on the mas of lettuce, underripe peach and mineral water. not easy distinguishing one Emiliana Chardonnay from nose are as good as it gets; otherwise it smells like air The palate is healthy and crisp, with lemony acids and the other; they’re all more or less similar. Novas shows a freshener. In the mouth, it’s waxy and flat, with bland fresh flavors of green fruits and lettuce leaf. Clean but touch of match stick and aromatic harshness, which is apple and vanilla flavors. Finishes pithy. Imported by lightly bitter. Imported by GOS Wines and BMC offset by softer melon and peach aromas. The palate is Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. Imports. —M.S. full and pulpy, with melony, obtuse flavors. Good for Chile, and decidedly not bitter or pithy. Imported by Chilcas 2009 Single Vineyard Chardonnay Vistamar 2010 Sepia Reserva Sauvignon Banfi Vintners. —M.S. 82 (Casablanca Valley); $18. Generic and mono- 86 Blanc (Casablanca Valley); $10. Mildly trop- tone on the nose. The palate is nothing more than wet ical on the nose and pleasant overall, with a touch of Veramonte 2009 Reserva Chardonnay and chunky, while the flavors are soft, sweet and can- match stick to the bouquet. The palate is lemony and 87 (Casablanca Valley); $12. Toasty but nice on died, with vanilla and toffee overriding any fruit. A

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 creamy dullard with a lot of vanilla and hardly any ied Chardonnay with a slight lactic note to it, the 2008 pulse. Imported by Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. NEW ZEALAND Martinborough Vineyard Chardonnay is crisp and long on the finish, highlighting its flavors of vanilla and Ventisquero 2009 Queulat Gran Reserva WHITES pineapple. Might improve with another year or two in 81 Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley); $15. Tan the bottle. Imported by The Sorting Table. —J.C. in color and bland as a whole, with vanilla and pear aro- CHARDONNAY mas that do little to allure or entice. Strained and pick- Kumeu River 2008 Maté’s Vineyard PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO led tasting, with a heavy, overdone overall style. Pushes Chardonnay (Kumeu); $47. The 2008 Maté’s the definition of “acceptable.” Imported by Austral 92 shows more lushness than typical for the vineyard, but Mountford 2008 Estate Pinot Gris Wines. —M.S. retains its hallmark lime-like acidity. It’s almost full bod- 91 (Waipara); $24. The only trouble with this bar- ied, with a creamy, lush mouthfeel and plenty of gain-priced version of a vendange tardive Pinot Gris Root:1 2009 Chardonnay (Casablanca Val- roasted-nut complexity wrapped around melony fruit. will be finding some, as only 40 cases were imported. At 80 ley); $12. Oxidized and mute, with mushy, Finishes with lingering oak spice and citrus. Drink only 11.6% alcohol, there’s plenty of sugar left in the nutty flavors and a similar finish. An underperformer now–2016. Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C. wine (67 g/l), concentrated and enriched by the inclu- that lacks freshness, purity and character. Imported by sion of 50% botrytis-affected fruit. The impressions are Winebow. —M.S. Kumeu River 2008 Hunting Hill Chardon- of honeyed pineapple, ripe melon and peach preserves, 91 nay (Kumeu); $42. Full-bodied and lush, the finishing long and sweet. Delicious now, but should still Hickory Hill is the most ebullient of the 2008s from be good 5–6 years down the road. Imported by Infinity VIOGNIER Kumeu River, laced with oak and lees embellishments Imports. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. of toasted almonds, vanilla and hickory smoke yet bal- Los Molles 2010 Reserva Viognier (Limarí anced by rounded, melony fruit. It finishes long and Kumeu River 2009 Pinot Gris (Kumeu); 85 Valley); $14. Very aromatic, to the point of citrusy, suggesting it may evolve positively for at least a 88 $21. The Brajkovich family’s 2009 Pinot Gris being flowery. The palate is sweet and dense, with a few years. Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C. finds a fine balance between sweetness, acidity and alcohol, offering just enough of each. Melon flavors are heavy, round mouthfeel and candied mango, melon and Kumeu River 2008 Estate Chardonnay tinged with almondskin and a lingering touch of musky applesauce flavors. Finishes just pure enough, with (Kumeu); $35. A blend of several vineyard spice on the finish. Fine on its own, or pair it with weight and pith entering the fray. Don’t wait long to 91 parcels, Kumeu River’s Estate bottling is the best value dishes that are slightly sweet (shrimp) or spicy. drink. Imported by The Artisan Collection. —M.S. in the winery’s impressive lineup of 2008 Chardonnays. Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C. It shows all of the toasty, leesy notes of the single-vine- Viu Manent 2010 Secreto de Viu Manent yard wines, medium body and a bright core of zesty Roaring Meg 2010 Pinot Grigio (Central 82 Viognier (Colchagua Valley); $14. Barely pineapple fruit. Drink now–2014. Imported by Wilson 87 Otago); $16. A decent value in New Zealand noticeable lime and orange aromas sit mute on the Daniels Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Pinot Gris, Roaring Meg’s 2010 is eminently drinkable, nose, which is reduced and artificial smelling. The balancing bright, vibrant passion fruit and nectarine fla- palate has a hard feel and generic flavors of white fruits. Kumeu River 2008 Coddington Chardon- vors against hints of sugar and spice. It’s off dry in style at Amid sweetness there’s a chemical bitterness. Not one 90 nay (Kumeu); $42. Perhaps the biggest of 11 g/l residual sugar, giving it a little extra heft on the of this winery’s better products. Imported by Baystate Kumeu River’s 2008 Chardonnays, the Coddington palate. Imported by American Estates Wines, Inc. —J.C. Wine & Spirits. —M.S. offers waves of tropical fruit—pineapple and caram- bola—allied to mouthfilling richness and balanced by Mt. Difficulty 2009 Pinot Gris (Central Viña Bisquertt 2008 La Joya Reserve Viog- citrusy acids and hints of roasted nuts. Drink now. 86 Otago); $19. Nearly dry, this is a full-bodied, Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C. slightly creamy-textured Pinot Gris. It’s a bit shy on the 80 nier (Colchagua Valley); $12. Heavy and nose, offering only modest melon and citrus notes, then soupy in its current state. This is one chunked-out white Man O’ War 2008 Chardonnay (Waiheke closes with hints of nuts and spice. Drink now. wine that is barely hanging on with flavors of papaya 89 Island); $19. Full-bodied and richly textured, Imported by American Estates Wines, Inc. —J.C. and dried-out peach. Has lost whatever freshness it may this is a mouthful of Chardonnay for the price, boasting have had. Imported by Prestige Wine Group. —M.S. vibrant pineapple fruit and accents of toasty oak and Chasing Venus 2009 Pinot Gris (Marlbor- roasted nuts. Crisp, long and spicy on the finish. Drink 85 ough); $16. Pretty typical New Zealand Pinot Viña el Aromo 2010 Viognier (Maule Val- now. Imported by Gotham Wine Group. —J.C. Gris, featuring a fair bit of residual sweetness. There’s 80 ley); $9. Overly perfumed, with burnt notes, plenty of weight and density in the mouth, but less wayward sulfur and acridness at the wine’s core. The Felton Road 2007 Chardonnay (Central intensity of flavor and aroma, only hinting at almond, palate is fleshy and low in acidity, with bitterness to the 88 Otago); $42. This is a fine, easy-to-drink honey and melon. Imported by JL Giguiere. —J.C. white fruit flavors that are none too clean. Offers very Chardonnay. Subtle toast and cinnamon shadings little that’s redeeming. Imported by Simone Interna- accent melon and citrus fruit, and the wine is full bod- tional. —M.S. ied yet remains crisp through the slightly oaky finish. RIESLING Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C. Dry River 2009 Late Harvest Riesling (Mar- OTHER WHITES Kumeu River 2008 Village Chardonnay 90 tinborough); $55. Plump and slightly sweet, 88 (Kumeu); $20. Kumeu’s entry-level Chardon- this late-harvest Riesling comes in at 10% alcohol— Miguel Torres 2009 Cordillera Reserva Pri- nay shows less concentrated fruit and less oak influence something along the lines of a rich spätlese in terms of than its big siblings, but nonetheless displays ample its alcohol-acid-sugar balance. Notes of pineapple and vada Barrel Fermented Chardonnay-Viog- 82 pineapple and pear fruit in a full-bodied format. The crushed stone open up to melon fruit on the palate and nier (Chile); $17. Big and gold, with aromas of corn, oak is barely noticeable, making the wine straightfor- finish long, with a bit of cinnamon or ginger spice. sweat and vegetal white fruits. This is soft, dull and rich ward and easy to drink. Imported by Wilson Daniels Imported by RO Imports LLC. —J.C. stuff, with an oaky, dry palate of apricot and papaya. Ltd. —J.C. Seems over the hill already and it’s not yet two years Te Kairanga 2008 East Plain Riesling (Mar- old. 88% Chard and 12% Viognier. Imported by Drey- Martinborough Vineyard 2008 Chardon- 90 tinborough); $20. This wine appears to be at fus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. 87 nay (Martinborough); $40. A medium-bod- its peak, showing some developed notes of kerosene to

WineMag.com | 33 BUYING I GUIDE go with apple and citrus flavors. It’s medium-bodied Sea Breeze 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (East touches of mushrooms and parsnips alongside attractive (12% abv) and just barely off dry (7.8 g/l). Enticing 85 Coast); $11. A light, perfectly quaffable Marl- wisps of cherry fruit. Fades quickly on the finish; drink notes of Earl Grey grace the nose, while the finish is borough Sauvignon Blanc, the 2009 Sea Breeze dis- now. Imported by Winegrowers of Ara. —J.C. long, crisp and refreshing. Imported by Liquid Brands plays classic grapefruit and gooseberry notes, accented LLC. —J.C. by hints of tomato leaf. Finishes a bit short, but pro- Seifried 2007 Pinot Noir (Nelson); $28. vides decent value. Imported by Marzano Imports, 84 Starts off with appealing cherry and spice shad- Mohua 2008 Riesling (Central Otago); $15. LLC. —J.C. ings, but adds some rustic, adhesive bandage notes that 88 A solid effort from this value-oriented brand, build on the finish. Imported by Robert Whale Selec- offering a bit of sweetness and breadth to match apple Terroir 2009 by Ant Moore Sauvignon tions Inc. —J.C. and lime flavors. The mouthwatering finish shows just a 85 Blanc (Marlborough); $10. Crisp and brisk touch of bitterness, helping to balance out the residual on the palate, with hints of grapefruit, melon and fig sugar. Drink now. Imported by Vineyard Brands. —J.C. accented by herbal, leafy notes. The flavors fade quickly SOUTH AFRICAN REDS on the finish, but the wine makes for a pleasant apéritif. Nelson Bay 2009 Riesling (Nelson); $14. Imported by Infinity Imports. Best Buy. —J.C. BLENDED REDS 87 Even at a considerable 15 g/l of residual sugar, this wine comes across as almost dry, thanks to its crisp Winegrowers of Ara 2009 Composite Ernie Els 2006 Limited Release (Stellen- acidity. Scents of petrichor, green apple and lime start 85 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough); $17. Pep- 92 bosch); $95. With only 336 cases imported, things off, while those razor-sharp acids show up on the pery and sweaty upfront, backed up by white grape- this Limited Edition red should be snagged up when finish. Drink now. Imported by Testa Wines Of The fruit notes. This is a light- to medium-bodied Sauvignon seen. Herbal and fruity all at once with strong pepper World. —J.C. with a zesty finish of chalk and lime. Imported by Wine- and oregano aromas spicing up the black berry and cas- growers of Ara. —J.C. sis core. A touch of sweet cured meat, licorice, leather Mt. Beautiful 2009 Riesling (Canterbury); and roasted espresso appear on the finish, with assertive 86 $19. A simple, fresh and appealing Riesling, Tiki Sound 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- tannins filling the creamy mouth and lingering through light to medium in body and off dry in style. Apple and 84 borough); $13. Passion fruit, grapefruit and the close. Drink now–2014. Imported by Terlato Wines citrus notes dominate, with some slightly riper melon capsicum all speak to this wine’s Marlborough origins. International. —L.B. notes evident as well. Drink over the next few years. It’s medium bodied and features a hint of creaminess Imported by Mistarr Wine Importers. —J.C. on the midpalate, then adds a hint of canned pineapple Kanonkop 2007 Paul Sauer (Simonsberg- on the finish. Imported by A.W. Direct. —J.C. 91 Stellenbosch); $43. Balanced and forward with enticing notes of cedar and smoked meat among SAUVIGNON BLANC Kumeu River 2009 Sauvignon Blanc aromas of mulled blackberries and licorice. Lush dark 81 (Kumeu); $19. Sauvignon Blanc has never black fruit floods the velvety mouth, while tobacco and Palliser Estate 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Mar- been a focus at Kumeu River, and this is an overly lean, sweet spice linger through the lengthy close. Drink now 88 tinborough); $18. Pungent and nettle-y, but green and underripe rendering. Imported by Wilson through 2014. Imported by Cape Classics. —L.B. those elements are nicely counterbalanced by a Daniels Ltd. —J.C. medium-bodied core of pineapple and fig. Finishes Hartenberg 2006 The Mackenzie (Stellen- pleasantly soft; easy to drink. Imported by Negociants 90 bosch); $79. Dark berries, coffee and woody USA, Inc. —J.C. NEW ZEALAND REDS spice start off the nose of this wine, with more concen- trated but juicy plum and cherry flavors unfolding in Clifford Bay Estate 2009 Awatere Valley PINOT NOIR the mouth. Creamy and lush with medium acid and a 87 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough); $10. lively structure. Drink now–2013. Imported by Terry Fresh and appealing, but definitely on the green side of Neudorf 2007 Moutere Pinot Noir (Nel- Seitz. —L.B. the Sauvignon Blanc spectrum. This medium-bodied 91 son); $48. This wine’s beautifully complex aro- wine features pungent sweaty and grassy aromas, as mas include hints of brown sugar, cinnamon, dried Kanonkop 2005 Paul Sauer (Simonsberg- well as leafy, green-tomato flavors. Drink now. herbs and flowers, all swirling around a core of cherry 90 Stellenbosch); $43. This Cab-dominant blend Imported by Foley Family Wines. Best Buy. —J.C. fruit. It’s medium-bodied and supple in the mouth, yet with 15% each Merlot and Cabernet Franc is aged for it retains a sense of power and sinewy acids that should 25 months in medium-toast new French oak, and the Discovery 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (East make it drink well for 5–8 years. Imported by The result is a balanced and supple red with flavors of black 87 Coast); $15. A light- to medium-bodied Sauvi- Country Vintner. Cellar Selection. —J.C. plum, cassis, hickory bacon, bramble and a touch of gnon, the 2009 discovery is more delicate than many of milk chocolate on the finish. Ready to drink now. its counterparts, with hints of stuck flint, accenting Kim Crawford 2007 SP Rise-and-Shine Imported by Cape Classics. —L.B. stone fruit and citrus flavors. Turns chalky and crisp on 89 Creek Pinot Noir (Central Otago); $33. the finish. Drink now. Imported by American Estates Nicely executed New World Pinot Noir, with ripe black Post House 2008 Penny Black (Stellen- Wines, Inc. —J.C. cherry fruit forming the core of the wine, garnished 90 bosch); $23. Serious herbal notes of cedar with hints of rhubarb and brown sugar. The tannins are bark, black pepper and violet leaf mingle with a juicy Nelson Bay 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Nel- supple, the acids crisp, so the finish comes across as fruit backbone of black raspberry and cherry flavors. 87 son); $14. This medium-bodied Sauvignon tart, buffered by a velvety texture. Drink now–2013. Rich and satiny in the mouth with a firm structure and Blanc displays a range of flavors from nettles to citrus to Imported by Constellation Brands, Inc. —J.C. a coffee-infused finish. Drink now–2013. Imported by honey while remaining essentially dry. The leafy notes Terry Seitz. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. really emerge on the finish, along with a chalky note. Whitehaven 2007 Pinot Noir (Marlbor- Imported by Testa Wines Of The World. —J.C. 86 ough); $23. Round and generous in the mouth, Xavier Flouret 2007 uQamata (Stellen- despite lacking some fruity intensity. Hints of root veg- 90 bosch); $20. Made by Carmen Stevens, one of Winegrowers of Ara 2009 Resolute Sauvi- etables and herbal notes lend character, finishing crisp. South Africa’s first black female winemakers, this is a 86 gnon Blanc (Marlborough); $26. Riper in Imported by Whitehaven Wine Co. USA. —J.C. gorgeous blend with rich aromas and flavors of black cur- style than Ara’s Composite bottling, offering straightfor- rant leaf, licorice, cigar tobacco, boysenberry and black ward pineapple fruit and a clean, refreshing style. It’s Winegrowers of Ara 2007 Resolute Pinot cherry. Lush and creamy in the mouth, the finish offers a nicely balanced, with a mouthwatering finish. Drink 85 Noir (Marlborough); $32. Influenced by the hint of fresh mint sprig for a last minute lift. Imported by now. Imported by Winegrowers of Ara. —J.C. herbal, savory side of Marlborough Pinot Noir, with Cognac One, LLC. Editors’ Choice. —L.B.

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 Boekenhoutskloof 2008 The Chocolate Hartenberg 2008 Ecurie (Stellenbosch); Edgebaston 2009 The Pepper Pot (Stellen- 89 Block (Western Cape); $40. This Syrah-dom- 87 $20. Here’s a satiny, approachable red blend 85 bosch); $15. This red blend, made of 65% inant blend with 12% , 10% Cabernet Sauvi- with notes of black currant, brandy-soaked cherry and a Syrah, 28% Mourvèdre and 7% Tannat is a fresh and gnon, 7% Cinsault and 2% Viognier offers a delicious, touch of vanilla bean on the nose and mouth. A savory fruity wine that’s ready to drink now. Dark berries and a fruit-driven core matched with complex spice notes of peppery spice reveals itself on the end, with moderate touch of sweet oak flesh out the mouth, with a clean sweet smoke, cured meat and fresh tobacco leaf. The tannins lingering through the close. Imported by Terry and refreshing finish. Imported by Southern Starz, Inc. mouth is silky and smooth with fine-grain tannins and a Seitz. —L.B. —L.B. white pepper-flecked finish. Drink now–2012. Imported by Vineyard Brands. —L.B. Neil Ellis 2009 The Left Bank (Western Oak Valley 2005 The Oak Valley Blend 87 Cape); $15. A blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvi- 85 (Elgin); $30. Spiced meat, tomato leaf and Boekenhoutskloof 2009 The Wolftrap gnon, 35% Shiraz, 14% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc stemmy black fruit overwhelm this wine, which might 89 (Western Cape); $11. For full review see page and 1% Malbec, this clean, approachable red offers unfortunately be a bit past its prime. 69% Merlot, 27% 8. Best Buy. notes of black plum, cherry, cocoa and spice on the Cabernet Franc and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. Imported nose and mouth. A peppery heat on the tongue lingers by Confluence Wine Importers. —L.B. Giant Mistake 2008 Red Wine (Coastal through the medium finish, as do the dusty tannins. 88 Region); $20. Despite the name, purchasing Imported by Vineyard Brands. —L.B. Appollis 2009 Shiraz--Mourvèdre this wine is definitely not a giant mistake. For the price, 84 (Wellington); $12. Fruity and herbal all at this red blend offers loads of rich berry preserve flavors Releaf 2009 Made With Organically once with aromas of kirsch and black cherry competing matched assertively with coffee, chocolate and caramel 87 Grown Grapes Cabernet Sauvignon-Mer- with notes of wet forest floor and wild game. Light- accents. The palate is smooth but the tannins hang on lot-Shiraz (Western Cape); $10. A tasty, value- weight and drinkable with a clean, fruit-driven finish. firmly through the close. Imported by Cape Ardor priced organic red that’s perfect for grilled meat entrées Imported by MJM Imports. —L.B. LLC. —L.B. with notes of mulled spices and espresso among the black berry and plum fruit core. Black cherry skins flesh Stellenbosch Hills 2009 Polkadraai Pino- Glen Carlou 2006 Grand Classique (Paarl); out the medium-weight mouth, with firm tannins pro- 84 tage-Merlot (Polkadraai Hills); $10. This 88 $20. Despite the age, this Bordeaux-style blend viding a tight structure and lingering through the long blend of 70% Pinotage and 30% Merlot shows herbal is still a bit closed with muted aromas of waxy black finish. Drink now–2012. Imported by Prestige Wine notes of bramble and black plum skins alongside a Best Buy. rubbery accent. Medium weight with a soft, round fruit, tea leaves and cigar box spice. The crushed velvet- Group. —L.B. mouth and a clean finish. Imported by Cape Wine textured mouth offers a tightly structured backbone to Cederberg 2009 Merlot-Shiraz (Ceder- Match. —L.B. the black berry and plum flavors. 2,700 cases imported. berg); $18. Sweet and floral with assertive aro- Imported by Hess Collection. —L.B. 86 mas of crushed violets, dark berries and a touch of milk CABERNET SAUVIGNON Kanonkop 2009 Kadette (Stellenbosch); chocolate. Easy in the mouth with a medium weight, round texture and soft tannins. The finish is loaded with $15. Also known as a Cape Blend, this mix of 88 juicy black fruit flavors. Drink now. Imported by Stark-Condé 2007 Unfined and Unfiltered 46% Pinotage, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot Worthwhile Wine Company. —L.B. Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellenbosch); $27. and 6% Cabernet Franc is an easy-drinking, youthful 90 Cigar box and mulberry spice aromas lead the nose of wine with fresh but rich fruit flavors of red plum and Remhoogte 2008 Aigle Noir (Simonsberg- this Cab, with fruity notes of black berry and cassis pro- cherry backed by rose hip and hibiscus floral accents. Stellenbosch); $20. Though the nose is a bit viding the backdrop. Full and lush in the mouth, the Structured tannins remain through the close, with a 86 muted, assertive juicy black plum and muddled mul- ripe black fruit carries through to the finish alongside subtle smokiness unfolding on the end. Imported by berry unfold in the round mouth. Firm tannins follow accents of roasted coffee grounds. 550 cases imported. Cape Classics. —L.B. through to the dry, waxy finish. Try in another year or Imported by Vineyard Brands. —L.B. two, or give it a good long decant before drinking now. Mulderbosch 2007 Faithful Hound (Stel- Imported by Terry Seitz. —L.B. Bosman Family Vineyards 2007 Cabernet lenbosch); $22. 88 Here’s a concentrated blend of 89 Sauvignon (Wellington); $28. A hint of 62% Cab Sauv, 10% Malbec, 10% Petit Verdot, 10% Appollis 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon-Mer- spiced cured meat mixes with the assertive notes of cas- Merlot and 8% Cab Franc with assertive notes of cassis, 85 lot-Malbec-Petit Verdot (Wellington); $12. sis and black plum in the bouquet. The mouth shows black plum, sweet smoke and spice on the nose and Straightforward and easy to drink with a red fruit core more of an herbal character with flavors of licorice, mouth. Firmly structured and a bit chewy with a long of plum and cherry flavors accented by notes of black cigar tobacco and pepper that linger through the close. finish. Imported by Cape Classics. —L.B. currant leaf and tea leaves. Low tannins assist in the Firmly structured but with a creamy feel and dissipat- approachable structure, and the finish is clean and juicy. ing tannins. Imported by MJM Imports. —L.B. Neethlingshof 2005 The Short Story Col- Imported by MJM Imports. —L.B. 88 lection The Caracal (Stellenbosch); $25. Kanonkop 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon The Caracal (an African lynx breeding on the estate) is Beau Joubert 2009 Oak Lane Shiraz-Caber- 89 (Stellenbosch); $35. Rich and complex, this a spicy, dried-fruit driven wine that’s ready to drink 85 net Sauvignon (Stellenbosch); $9. A soft, Cab shows deep black fruit flavors of blackberry and now. Notes of black berry dust, animal hide, cigar drinkable red with hints of sweet smoke and cured cassis framed by decadent notes of espresso, leather tobacco and licorice root fill the nose and velvety meat adding character to the mulberry and blackberry and peppery spice. Like crushed satin in the mouth mouth, while a good amount of woody spice lingers on fruit flavors. Medium weight with low tannins and an with ample tannins and a lush fleshy fruit backbone. the close. Imported by Cape Legends . —L.B. easy finish. Drink now. Imported by Metrowine Distri- Accents of menthol appear on the lengthy finish. Drink bution. Best Buy. —L.B. now. Imported by Cape Classics. —L.B. Doolhof 2007 Renaissance Cabernet 87 Sauvignon-Merlot (Wellington); $30. Dried D’Aria 2009 Music by D’Aria (Durbanville); Rooiberg 2007 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- fruit aromas of red plum mix with spicy notes of licorice 85 $11. There are a lot of different elements going 89 gnon (Robertson); $15. Balanced and root and woody spice, while the mouth shows more on here, with aromas of black fruit mixing with nuances refined, this is a great value Cab that shows nice round- high-toned red fruit flavors. The tannins are soft and of sweet smoke and a touch of leather. Balanced and ness to the spicy tobacco, bramble and cassis flavors. approachable with a dusty finish. Drink now. Imported full in the mouth with moderate tannins and a solid fin- Dusty tannins linger softly through the finish, where a by Worthwhile Wine Company. —L.B. ish. Drink now. Imported by Cape Wine Match. —L.B. faint leathery accent adds intrigue. Readily available

WineMag.com | 35 BUYING I GUIDE with 14,000 cases imported. Imported by Worthwhile plum flesh. Lively and juicy but elegant in the mouth weight with soft tannins and a short finish. Imported by Wine Company. —L.B. with medium tannins and a white pepper-dusted finish. Cape Wine Match. —L.B. Imported by World Premiere Wines LLC. —L.B. Hartenberg 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Graham Beck 2009 Pinotage (Western 87 (Stellenbosch); $32. Blackberry and cassis Avontuur 2008 Minelli Pinot Noir (Stellen- 84 Cape); $15. Red berries and blueberry mix dominate the bouquet, with notes of coffee, sweet spice 87 bosch); $26. Lightweight but flavorful with with stewed rhubarb and a hint of sweet spice. The ripe and savory herb adding complexity. Balanced and well sweet vanilla accents supporting the red fruit character. berry flavors carry through to the mouth, but the finish structured with a medium-weight mouth and solid tan- A touch of popcorn toast appears in the bouquet, while reveals a hint of Band-Aid. Imported by Maritime Wine nins. Grilled black plum flavors carry though on the the finish exhibits sweet cola spice. Imported by Terry Trading Collective. —L.B. finish. Drink now. Imported by Terry Seitz. —L.B. Seitz. —L.B. Painted Wolf 2009 The Den Pinotage Kanonkop 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Oak Valley 2008 Pinot Noir (Elgin); $40. 84 (Coastal Region); $12. A bit closed on the 87 (Simonsberg-Stellenbosch); $35. There’s not 87 Sweet mocha and coffee notes overwhelm the nose, it takes a while for notes of black cherry skins and a ton of assertive character to this wine aside from its bouquet of this Pinot, with red raspberry and cherry rubber to appear in the bouquet. The mouth offers a bit gripping tannins and firm structure. The fruit is faint skin notes providing support. Lively acidity and a satiny more flavor, with a nice chocolate-covered cherry finish. and shy, with notes of dark berries, black tea and texture fill the mouth, while white pepper spice lingers Drink now. Imported by Southern Starz, Inc. —L.B. licorice spice hiding in the background. Open well in on the finish. Imported by Confluence Wine Importers. advance, give it a good decant, or try cellaring for —L.B. another couple of years before drinking. Imported by SYRAH/SHIRAZ Cape Classics. —L.B. Elgin Vintners 2008 Pinot Noir (Elgin); $21. Soft animal notes are countered by ripe red fruit Stark-Condé 2007 Three Pines Unfined Neil Ellis 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stel- 86 aromas on the nose, while more stemmy red berry and and Unfiltered Syrah (Jonkershoek Val- lenbosch); $23. 92 87 Here’s a medium-bodied red cola spice flavors appear in the mouth. Medium weight ley); $35. For full review see page 5. Editors’ Choice. with approachable tannins and a spicy edge throughout. with a clean, refreshing finish. Drink now. Imported by Ripe black plum and cassis aromas flood the bouquet, Cape Wine Match. —L.B. Thelema 2007 Shiraz (Stellenbosch); $36. while flavors of cigar box and licorice spice unfold in 91 Balanced and complex with herbal aromas of the mouth and linger through the finish. Drink now. forest floor and sweet smoke married to the dense Imported by Vineyard Brands. —L.B. PINOTAGE fruity core of black cherry, blueberry and juicy black plum. The organic dark fruit flavors continue on to Eventide Cellar 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Doolhof 2009 Dark Lady of the Labyrinth dominate the satiny mouth, while a black pepper and (Wellington); $17. Ripe and fruit forward. 86 Pinotage (Wellington); $19. Here’s a lively espresso flavor unfolds on the finish. Imported by Cape Strong notes of berry preserves and juicy black plum 88 and juicy Pinotage that’s laced with bramble and savory Classics. —L.B. are laced with notes of purple flowers and sweet herbs thoughout the dark fruit core. A coffee caramel smoked meat. Medium weight with soft tannins and a drizzle sweetens up the long finish, and the structure is Hartenberg 2007 The Stork Shiraz (Stel- clean finish. Drink now. Imported by Southern Starz, firm but approachable now. Imported by Worthwhile lenbosch); $79. Medium weight with a satiny Inc. —L.B. 90 Wine Company. —L.B. smooth texture and great balance, this is a stellar Syrah Post House 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon with great complexity between the rich dark fruit fla- Barista 2009 Pinotage (Western Cape); vors and forest spice. Aromatic accents of cured meat (Stellenbosch); $26. The nose is a bit soapy 85 $15. For full review see page 7. Imported by and crème brûlée linger in the back of the bouquet, and medicinal with aromas of violets candies, mushy 87 while a strong coffee flavor stays strong through the black cherry and a touch of acetone. The mouth offers Indigo Wine Group. more high toned fruit flavors with a sharp, skinny finish. finish. Imported by Terry Seitz. —L.B. Café Culture 2009 Pinotage (Western Drink now. Imported by Terry Seitz. —L.B. 86 Cape); $15. The name shouldn’t fool you; Stark-Condé 2007 Unfined and Unfiltered there’s a definite assertive coffee character to this wine. 90 Syrah (Stellenbosch); $27. A bit more rustic PINOT NOIR The black fruit flavors of spiced mulberry and black than its Three Pines Syrah. Notes of bramble, wild for- plum mix with a hickory smoke accent that lingers est berries, game and white pepper flood the nose and Hamilton Russell 2008 Pinot Noir (Hemel through the finish. Imported by Opici Wines. —L.B. mouth. The mouthfeel is creamy and lush, with rich 89 en Aarde); $44. Well known for their Pinot cherry flavors developing on the palate and playing into Noir, Hamilton Russell produces one of the finest MAN Vintners 2009 Pinotage (Coastal the cocoa-dusted finish. Imported by Vineyard Brands. South African offerings from the variety. Lively and 86 Region); $11. Dark fruit drives this wine, as —L.B. complex notes of fresh mint and black pepper spice up aromas and flavors of rich black berry, plum and cherry the red berry and cherry flavors. Soft tannins provide a laced with licorice root flood the senses. Round and Graham Beck 2005 The Ridge Syrah delicate framework, with a medium-length finish seal- full in the mouth but balanced with medium acidity 86 (Robertson); $15. The dark and moody bou- ing the deal. Imported by Vineyard Brands. —L.B. that leads through the clean, lively finish. Drink now. quet is loaded with heady black fruit, coffee, smoky Imported by Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —L.B. leather and cigar box aromas. Unfortunately, the soft Bouchard Finlayson 2008 Galpin Peak mouth offers far less of that intensity, with fading notes 88 Pinot Noir (Walker Bay); $40. Ripe and Painted Wolf 2009 Guillermo Pinotage of cherry and plum skins. Drink now. Imported by Mar- attractive with notes of sous bois and savory herbs 86 (Swartland); $18. There’s a nice spicy charac- itime Wine Trading Collective. —L.B. adding complexity to the forest berry and ripe stewed ter that appears throughout the nose and mouth of this rhubarb fruit flavors. Silky in the mouth with dusty tan- wine, lifted by juicy black berry and plum fruit flavors. Partnership Vineyards 2008 Shiraz (West- nins and a long, coffee-infused finish. Imported by Medium weight with solid acidity and balanced alcohol. 86 ern Cape); $12. Sweet mocha is the heart of Terry Seitz. —L.B. Drink now. Imported by Southern Starz, Inc. —L.B. this wine, with stemmy fruit flavors of black cherry and mashed raspberry providing the supporting frame. A Paul Cluver 2008 Seven Flags Pinot Noir Beyerskloof 2009 Pinotage (Stellenbosch); glimmer of hickory smoke accents the long finish. 88 (Elgin); $60. Spicy forest and used coffee grind 84 $11. Red plum and cherry aromas struggle to Drink now. Imported by Worthwhile Wine Company. aromas mingle with notes of small red berries and red overcome notes of rubber and wet forest floor. Light —L.B.

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 Rooiberg 2008 Reserve Shiraz (Robert- De Wetshof 2009 Bon Vallon Chardonnay and Key lime flavors accented by crushed white flow- 86 son); $15. There’s a nice brambly character to 88 (Robertson); $19. Bold and round, this Chard ers. Drink now. Imported by Kysela Père et Fils. Best this wine, with assertive savory herbs and fresh mint offers rich fruit flavors of ripe apple, white peach and Buy. —L.B. sprigs jazzing up the ripe berry-fruit core. Medium soft melon propped against a yellow floral and honey- weight with a softly creamy texture and a vanilla-infused suckle backbone. Sensual but balanced with lively acid- Graham Beck 2009 The Game Reserve finish. Imported by Worthwhile Wine Company. —L.B. ity and a clean close. Drink now. Imported by 84 Chenin Blanc (Coastal Region); $16. Tropi- Worthwhile Wine Company. —L.B. cal fruit notes of pineapple and guava backed by Eventide Cellar 2008 Shiraz (Wellington); accents of sweet grass and clementine citrus flesh out 85 $17. Slightly sweet and confected with rasp- Glen Carlou 2009 Chardonnay (Paarl); $16. this white. Lively and slightly prickly on the palate. berry fruit roll-up and berry preserve aromas. A glim- 88 Apple, pear and nectarine fruit scents lead the Imported by Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —L.B. mer of crushed carnation flavors switch things up in nose of this wine, with a touch of raw almond contribut- the lightweight but round and soft mouth. Imported by ing a gentle nutty accent. Medium weight with great Releaf 2009 Made With Organically Grown Southern Starz, Inc. —L.B. vibrancy and freshness, a lively sweet citrus core lifts 83 Grapes Chenin Blanc (Western Cape); $10. the palate and remains through the close. Imported by Medium intense aromas of tangerine citrus and crushed Rooiberg 2008 Shiraz (Robertson); $10. Hess Collection. —L.B. yellow flowers transition to flavors of dried grass, red 84 Straightforward and approachable with notes of apple and a touch of mushroom powder. Drink now. tart cherry and red plum dusted with cocoa powder on Muratie 2009 Chardonnay (Stel- Imported by Prestige Wine Group. —L.B. the nose and mouth. Drink now. Imported by Worth- 88 lenbosch); $25. So fresh and balanced, there’s while Wine Company. —L.B. structured mineral-driven support to the red apple, juicy lemon and sweet spice flavors. Medium weight, SAUVIGNON BLANC Makulu 2008 Shiraz (Western Cape); $6. A the ripe mouth is coupled with great acidity to cut 83 real value wine that’s perfect for large-group through any flab. A soft toastiness kicks up the finish. Cederberg 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Ceder- entertaining. Blueberry and cherry flavors lead here, Imported by Worthwhile Wine Company. —L.B. 88 berg); $22. Attractive aromas of ripe guava and with glimmers of raspberry leaf adding character. Juicy, mango mix masterfully with earthy notes of fresh grass Morgenhof 2009 Chardonnay (Simons- light and simple, but good. Imported by Prestige Wine and sweet pea florals in the bouquet. Lime flavors drive berg-Stellenbosch); $19. Ripe pineapple, Group. Best Buy. —L.B. 86 the palate, with a great cut to the mouthfeel and a juicy juicy peach and Key lime flavors fill the medium-weight finish. Drink now. Imported by Worthwhile Wine Com- mouth, while a soft accent of peach pit develops on the pany. —L.B. SOUTH AFRICAN finish. Balanced and straightforward; drink now. Imported by Terry Seitz. —L.B. Neil Ellis 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Groenek- loof); $18. The prickly mouth and forward WHITES DeMorgenzon 2009 Chardonnay (Western 88 acidity makes this a live-wire choice that would be a Cape); $15. Lean and tart with green plum and CHARDONNAY 84 great companion to a rich chicken dish or cream of Granny Smith apple aromas. Lemony acidity drives the asparagus soup. Fresh- cut grass, soft chive and water- brisk mouth, leading into the short but crisp finish. Bouchard Finlayson 2009 Kaaimansgat melon rind all occasionally shine through the citrus- Imported by Cape Classics. —L.B. 91 Chardonnay (Overberg); $29. Wood-grilled dominant nose and mouth. Drink now. Imported by peach aromas mingle with notes of orange blossom and Vineyard Brands. —L.B. almond skins on the nose. Juicy and well balanced, the CHENIN BLANC/STEEN rich toasty red apple and orange creamsicle flavors lead Shannon 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Elgin); $30. into the long wood-spiced close. Drink now. Imported Painted Wolf 2009 The Den Chenin Blanc 88 Fresh but full with ripe flavors of kiwi and Editors’ Choice. by Terry Seitz. —L.B. 87 (Coastal Region); $12. This Chenin immedi- Key lime citrus accented by savory herbs on the palate. ately draws you in with notes of baked apple, beeswax Balanced, with bracing acidity and a lingering finish Hartenberg 2007 The Eleanor Chardonnay and softly toasted brioche. The rich, medium-weight accented by notes of white peach. A nice choice for (Stellenbosch); $53. 90 There’s a definite oaky mouth carries similar notes of spicy toast and ripe pear poached halibut. 300 cases imported. Imported by backdrop to this wine, adding spice and toast to the flavors. Full-flavored and easy to drink; enjoy now. Southern Starz, Inc. —L.B. rich baked red apple, peach bit and brioche flavors. An Imported by Southern Starz, Inc. Best Buy. —L.B. orange blossom accent freshens up the rich flavors and D’Aria 2009 Terra D’Aria Sauvignon Blanc the full but balanced mouth. The long finish is loaded Ken Forrester 2009 Chenin Blanc (Stellen- 87 (Durbanville); $12. Green plum skins, bitter with toasty hazelnut character. Imported by Terry Seitz. 85 bosch); $15. Soft red apple, hard peach, green lime pith, hay and pepper all dominate the nose with —L.B. fig and underripe banana peel all marry with an under- barely a hint of ripe fruit to be found. The mouth, how- lying yellow floral note. Light and easy in the mouth ever, offers a bit more ripeness to the lime and plum Paul Cluver 2009 Chardonnay (Elgin); $30. with a short but clean finish. Imported by Cape Clas- flavors, fleshing out the medium-weight mouth and 90 Medium-intense aromas of ripe pear and soft sics. —L.B. adding depth to the wine. Imported by Cape Wine herbs transition into the mouth alongside developing Match. Best Buy. —L.B. flavors of apricot and clementine citrus. Medium Rooiberg 2009 Chenin Blanc (Robertson); weight with a good crispness and a clean but lingering 85 $9. Waxy orange peel and green apple aromas Oak Valley 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Elgin); finish. 5,400 cases imported. Imported by Worthwhile take the lead on this white, with riper stone fruit and 87 $18. This wine is tart and mouthwatering with Wine Company. —L.B. sweet citrus flavors developing in the mouth. Light strong notes of green gooseberry, lemon supremes, hay weight with a clean and refreshing finish. Imported by and a touch of green banana rind throughout. Balanced Danie de Wet 2009 Limestone Hill Worthwhile Wine Company. Best Buy. —L.B. but bracing with a lively citrus finish. Drink now. 89 Chardonnay (Robertson); $16. There’s great Imported by Confluence Wine Importers. —L.B. minerality to this wine, as aromas of chalky soil mix with The Royal Valley Vineyards Wine Com- notes of brisk red apple skin, hard pear and a drizzle of 85 pany 2009 Old Vines Steen Chenin Blanc Paul Cluver 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Elgin); honey. Fresh apple slices and orange citrus flavors liven (Swartland); $10. With 11,000 cases imported, this 87 $18. Bright and drinkable with easygoing green up the mouth, ending with a lively and mouthwatering crisp, clean Steen should be easy to find and well worth fig, underripe melon, herbs and sweet lemon drop fla- finish. Imported by Worthwhile Wine Company. —L.B. the price. Light weight but filled with ripe pineapple vors. Approachable and balanced with medium acidity

WineMag.com | 37 BUYING I GUIDE and a crisp finish. Drink now. Imported by Worthwhile and apricot spiced with hints of white florals and lime Hall 2007 Exzellenz Sacrashe Vineyard Wine Company. —L.B. zest. The medium- weight mouth is juicy and clean, the 96 Red Wine (Rutherford); $165. For full ripe stone fruit flavors carrying through to the close. review see page 2. Sutherland 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Elgin); Drink now. Imported by Cape Wine Match. —L.B. 87 $15. Clean and to the point, the fresh grass Macauley 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon notes ground the lively tart gooseberry and underripe Eventide Cellar 2009 Viognier (Welling- 96 (Napa Valley); $72. For full review see page 3. mango flavors, keeping the mouth from feeling too 86 ton); $17. Ripe and fruit forward with lush crisp and lean. Refreshing and easy to drink; try with notes of melon, banana and sweet tropical fruit citrus Reynolds Family Winery 2007 Reserve grilled spiced softshell crab. Imported by Cape Classics. throughout. Medium weight, the finish is loaded with 96 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District); —L.B. juicy fresh peach flavors. Drink now. Imported by $89. A big, vital and important Cabernet that deserves Southern Starz, Inc. —L.B. a place in the cellar. It hits the mouth with huge tannins Warwick 2010 Professor Black Sauvignon that are tight and locked down, yet sweetly ripe. That 87 Blanc (Stellenbosch); $19. The mouthfeel of contradiction persists throughout the fantastically com- this wine is full and round despite lean flavors of tart OTHER WHITES plex blackberry, cherry, currant and mocha flavors. A tropical fruit and melon rind. The nose offers aromas very fine, superior wine that exemplifies the Stags Leap of fresh herbs and green fruit that reappear on the fin- Solms-Delta 2009 Amalie Viognier- iron fist in a velvet glove. As delicious as it is, you ish. Drink now. Imported by Broadbent Selections, 87 Grenache Blanc (Western Cape); $35. An should hold this Cabernet for a good six years, and it Inc. —L.B. interesting wine, this blend offers a complex nose of could easily develop for an additional decade. Cellar ripe whole lychee and fresh pressed apple aromas coun- Selection. —S.H. Bouchard Finlayson 2010 Sauvignon Blanc tered by glimmers of beeswax and rose florals. More 86 (Walker Bay); $18. Ripe fruit flavors are coun- red apple unfolds in the round mouth, with a touch of Staglin 2007 INEO (Napa Valley); $250. tered by a fresh citrus zing in the mouth, with notes of sweet lime oil freshening up the finish. Imported by 96 Here’s a young, strong, vigorous wine that needs underripe melon and hard banana sprinkling the bou- Worthwhile Wine Company. —L.B. cellar time. It’s absolutely dry, and hits the palate with quet. Drink now. Imported by Terry Seitz. —L.B. numbing tannins. But the blackberry, cassis and cedar Lammershoek 2008 Roulette Blanc (Swart- flavors are intense and concentrated. Earns its high score KWV 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Western land); $25. A blend of 48% Chenin Blanc, 41% by the wonderful combination of elegance and potency. Cape); $11. Soft grass, green gooseberry and a 86 86 Chardonnay and 11% Viognier, this is an interesting Hold until after 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H. hint of fig unfold on the nose, while ripe green plum white with slightly oxidized but rich notes of honey- and lime rind fill the medium-weight mouth. Clean and comb, toasted hazelnut and baked apple thoughout. Far Niente 2008 Estate Bottled Cabernet easy to drink; pair with crab salad canapés. Imported by Medium weight with a touch of heat coming through Sauvignon (Oakville); $120. For full review Opici Wines. Best Buy. —L.B. 95 on the long finish. Imported by Worthwhile Wine Com- see page 3. pany. —L.B. MAN Vintners 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Salvestrin 2007 3D Cabernet Sauvignon (Western Cape); $11. Light and easy-drinking 86 Boekenhoutskloof 2009 The Wolftrap (St. Helena); $125. Sweet new oak stands out, with fresh notes of lemon citrus, watercress and a touch 95 (Franschhoek); $10. Composed of 40% Viog- giving this Cabernet caramel aromas and flavors. But of wild field grass. Clean acidity and herbal flavors carry 85 nier, 39% Chenin Blanc and 21% Grenache Blanc, the oak is perfectly in keeping with the wine’s massive through the palate to the crisp finish. Drink now. there’s an attractive round richness to this wine. A power. Underneath the wood char is a dry, tannic wine Imported by Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —L.B. toasty character spices up the fresh pear, melon and with rich blackberry and currant flavors. It’s a bit dis- Simonsig 2010 Sunbird Sauvignon Blanc orange rind flavors, with a nutty accent lingering on the jointed now, needing time for everything to mesh Cel- 86 (Stellenbosch); $14. Herbal and fruity all at finish. Imported by Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —L.B. together. Could be really something around 2015. once with clean aromas of gooseberry, hard mango and lar Selection. —S.H. Post House 2008 Blueish White Chenin green grass. Ctirus flavors dominate the lightweight Blanc-Sauvignon Blanc (Stellenbosch); Terra Valentine 2007 Wurtele Vineyard mouth with crisp lime acidity charging through on the 84 $11. Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain); close. Imported by Quintessential Wines. —L.B. This 65% Chenin Blanc - 35% Sauvignon Blanc 95 blend is clean and fresh with flavors of green grass, hard $65. A well-made wine, showing lots of terroir in the Rooiberg 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Robert- nectarine and a touch of orange rind in the round mineral-infused blackberry, black currant, chocolate 85 son); $9. Here’s a well balanced and easy to mouth. Drink now. Imported by Terry Seitz. —L.B. and anise flavors. The tannins are structurally superb, drink value priced Sauv Blanc, offering notes of sweet while the finish is dry and complex. A very fine wine grass, barely ripe peach and melon on the nose and that should gather momentum for at least a decade. mouth. Perfect for summer entertaining; pair with sushi CALIFORNIA REDS Cellar Selection. —S.H. or cocktail shrimp. Imported by Worthwhile Wine Company. Best Buy. —L.B. CABERNETS & BLENDS Venge 2008 Bone Ash Vineyard Cabernet 95 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $76. For full Venge 2008 Family Reserve Cabernet review see page 3. Cellar Selection. VIOGNIER 99 Sauvignon (Oakville); $125. For full review see page 2. Bennett Lane 2008 Lynch Family Vineyard Ridgeback 2008 Viognier (Paarl); $20. 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Calistoga); $125. A 90 Here’s a gorgeous Viognier that is showing very Araujo 2007 Eisele Cabernet Sauvignon very rich, dry Cabernet, marked by dusty tannins, and well. Soft toasted brioche topped with baked red apple, 98 (Napa Valley); $275. Profoundly beautiful with flavors of blackberries, dark chocolate, sweet herbs ginger and orange clove spice aromas transition into aroma on this Cab, a perfect union of oaky char and and green olives. Very fine in the mouth, clearly a wine flavors of spiced peach and orange oil in the full mouth. vanilla with ripe blackberries and cassis. Hard to exag- with pedigree, but it needs time. Hold until 2014. Cel- Well balanced with a long, spicy finish. Imported by gerate the beauty. Powerful, yet never pushy, with clas- lar Selection. —S.H. Cape Ardor LLC. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. sic Napa balance. Rich, sweet, almost meaty, with massive tannins that are refined and smooth. Very great Zahtila 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Calis- Elgin Vintners 2009 Viognier (Elgin); $20. density and weight. Really defines the vineyard, and 94 toga); $50. For full review see page 3. Cellar 86 Fresh and light with ripe fruit notes of red apple should age effortlessly for 20 years. —S.H. Selection.

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 Baldacci 2007 Brenda’s Vineyard Cabernet have to have a great deal of faith to buy this wine, Luna 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- 93 Sauvignon (Stags Leap District); $105. For because right now it’s almost undrinkable due to the 92 ley); $50. Dry as dust and very tannic, this full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. tannins. They’re as hard and firm as a brick wall, and Cabernet simply isn’t ready for prime time yet. It’s whatever fruit there is, and there’s plenty, is effectively tightly wound and tough, and resists breaking down. Bartalotti 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- hidden from the palate’s pleasure. Discerning tasters But there are plenty of blackberries tucked deep inside. 93 gnon (Rutherford); $60. There’s something will detect massive blackberries and black currants, Hold this elegant wine until after 2015. Cellar Selec- so smoothly sweet about this Cabernet, it’s like an old buried deep down like pirate’s treasure. It should tion. —S.H. Cognac. The sweetly toasted oak is merging its caramel develop quite well over the next ten or fifteen years. and vanilla with the ripe black and red cherries, lead- Cellar Selection. —S.H. Mi Sueño 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa ing to an unctuous, long, spicy finish. Really quite a 92 Valley); $65. Here’s a fine, young Cabernet, compelling wine that’s beautiful now. Editors’ Choice. Tuck Beckstoffer 2007 Mockingbird Green rich in pastry-filling blackberries, cherries, black rasp- —S.H. 93 Label Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley); berries, cassis and sweet toasted oak notes. Already $170. Very rich, concentrated and intense, almost throwing some sediment, it should glide effortlessly Clos du Val 2007 Three Graces Blend jammy, showing the essence of ripe blackberry and through the next eight years, gaining bottle interest. 93 (Napa Valley); $65. Clos du Val has always cherry fruit nectar. Oak shows up as rich, smoky char. Cellar Selection. —S.H. made wines with long-term cellaring in mind. This With firm tannins and a long, sweet, fruity finish, this blend, based on Cabernet Sauvignon, is dry and tannic, Cabernet should age well. Too young and tight now, so Ramian 2006 J. Garrett Cabernet Sauvi- with spicy, toasty oak dominating. Beneath that are rich, give it until at least 2014. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 92 gnon (Calistoga); $85. Big, sturdy and compelling notes of cassis and dark chocolate. The alco- extracted in blackberries, black currants and molasses, hol is refeshingly low, below 14%. This dramatic wine Armanino Family Cellars 2008 Reserve with a meaty edge, almost like a Syrah. The tannins are needs a minimum of six years, and should develop for at 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $95. A thick and furry and astringent, but the wine is flashy least ten. Cellar Selection. —S.H. rich, sleek Cabernet, made in a controlled manner and complex. Hard now, but give it 5–6 years, and it emphasizing dry elegance rather than massive fruit. could age well beyond that. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Hall 2007 Segassia Vineyard Cabernet You’ll find complex blackberry, tobacco and mocha fla- Sauvignon (Mount Veeder); $145. Robert Mondavi 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- 93 For full vors, wrapped into firm tannins. Now–2014. —S.H. review see page 4. 92 gnon (Oakville); $45. A big, dense, brooding Baldacci 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags wine, concentrated and powerful in blackberries, cher- Laird 2007 Mast Ranch Cabernet Sauvi- ries and cassis. The tannins are sandpapery, giving the Leap District); $65. For full review see page 4. gnon (Yountville); $70. Very concentrated 92 mouth a scoury feeling added to by the acids. An inter- 93 Cellar Selection. and compact in fruit, with a molten core of blackberries esting, complex young wine that’s well made and needs and cassis. A dramatic, flashy wine, but the tannins are Bardessono 2007 Maxine’s Cabernet time to come around. Drink it over the next 6–8 years. impossibly tight and astringent. There’s beautiful, clas- —S.H. Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $35. Very good sic, almost old-fashioned structure here, but don’t even 92 price for a Cabernet this complex and smooth from think of opening it until at least 2015. Cellar Selec- Round Pond 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvi- Napa Valley. Offers lots of pleasure in the velvety tex- tion. —S.H. gnon (Rutherford); $50. Quite a good Caber- ture and rich flavors of blackberries, cassis and mocha. 92 net, virgorous and dry, with an earthy edge of sweet, A big improvement over the ’06 bottling. Give it a few Luna 2006 North Fork Cabernet Sauvi- dried herbs alongside the blackberries and cedar. More hours of decanting. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 93 gnon (Napa Valley); $110. Very dry and tan- elegant and food-friendly than many of the fruitier, high nic, an austere young Cabernet that offering much alcohol, oaky Cabs out there. —S.H. Cinnabar 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa relief now. You’ll find a very rich, concentrated core of Cruz Mountains); $45. For full review see blackberries and minerals, brightened by a scour of 92 Tudal 2008 Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvi- fine, clean acidity. The odds are heavily in favor of this page 4. 92 gnon (Napa Valley); $55. A distinguished wine aging well for a decade. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Cabernet whose superb tannins, which are firm and Dyer 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond ripe and refined, testify to its Napa origins. So does the Mountain); $75. Promise 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon 92 Showing those infamous Dia- blackberry and currant fruit, which finishes in a swirl of 93 (Rutherford); $225. There’s a very good wine mond Mountain tannins, this Cab is hard as nails. sweet, smoky cedar wood. Good as it is, it’s way too here that’s yearning to express itself, but it’s locked Makes the mouth pucker with astringency. The under- young. Should be best around 2015 and afterward. Cel- inside a straitjacket of tannins. Feels hard, astringent lying wine is bone dry, and has vital, concentrated lar Selection. —S.H. and resistant in the mouth. But it’s huge in concen- blackberry and cassis flavors, with a kiss of tangy miner- trated blackberries, cherries, anise and cedar, and gives als that must come from the dirt. Give this young wine Zahtila 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa the impression of drama and importance. Give it at at least six years, and it should live for many more. Cel- 92 Valley); $40. Made in a very ripe, intensely least five years, and it could develop well beyond that. lar Selection. —S.H. concentrated style, this tannic young Cabernet is mas- Cellar Selection. —S.H. sive in blackberries, currants and cedar. It’s a huge, Guarachi Family 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon impressive wine that needs at least 6–8 years in the cel- Reverie 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 92 (Napa Valley); $65. A very rich, dramatic, indis- lar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 93 (Diamond Mountain); $65. Impressive for putably Napa Cabernet. The fruit is ripe in blackberries the volume of its flavor, which is all intensely concen- and cassis, the tannin structure is vibrant and living, and Laird 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon trated mountain blackberries and cassis, with an inter- the oak application is superb. A fashionable Cab that 91 (Yountville); $48. Richly tannic and dry, this esting and savory salty earthiness of green olives. should develop over the next eight years. —S.H. Cabernet has the hallmarks of a wine that needs time to Beautifully oaked, too, so sweet and refined in toast. develop. It’s chunky and astringent now, with fresh, tart But those notorious Diamond Mountain tannins are Kapscandy Family Winery 2008 Grand Vin flavors of blackberries, cherries and currants, and an gigantic, and the wine needs serious cellar time. Stash 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yountville); $325. overlay of smoky oak. Should be fine in 6–7 years. Cel- until 2014, and the drinkabiity window could last for Dense, dry and ripe, this is a Cabernet to lay down. It’s lar Selection. —S.H. an additional ten years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. really tough and gritty in tannins, but solid in wild blackberry, cherry and herb flavors. A powerful young Shypoke 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Calis- Reverie 2008 Special Reserve Cabernet Cabernet that needs 6–8 years to come around. Cellar 91 toga); $34. There’s something almost old-fash- 93 Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain); $85. You Selection. —S.H. ioned about this Cabernet. It’s in the tannic structure,

WineMag.com | 39 BUYING I GUIDE which actually is firm and angular, not the melted vari- rich edge of milk chocolate to the black cherry and flavors alongside riper notes of cherries and blackber- ety that keeps too many wines from aging. Bone dry cedar flavors. Feels vital and delicious and alive. Edi- ries. Nicely dry, and shows a certain pedigree, but does- and efficiently oaked, it shows lovely blackberry, cur- tors’ Choice. —S.H. n’t seem quite ripe enough for the long haul. —S.H. rant, dark chocolate and herb flavors that need a good five years to show their best. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Volker Eisele 2007 Terzetto (Napa Valley); Terra Valentine 2007 Marriage (Spring 90 $75. Rough-hewn and tannic in youth, this 88 Mountain); $75. Fruity and jammy, showing Sleeper Cellars 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon blend of one-third each Cabernet Sauvignon, Caber- intensely ripe, crushed wild blackberry and foxy mul- 91 (Napa Valley); $44. Fans of sweet, ripe Cabs net Franc and Merlot isn’t showing much accessibility. berry flavors. A little rustic in tannins, with a bristling will love this charming beauty. It’s forward and drink- It’s astringently closed, but very ripe and sweet in black- texture, but the finish is long, dry and spicy. Could sur- able now in blackberries, plums and cherries, but it’s berries, cherries and cedar. Give it five years in the cel- prise after 5–7 years in the cellar. —S.H. not simple. The tannins are rich and complex, and the lar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. finish is dry and spicy. Decant before serving. —S.H. Tudal 2008 Clift Vineyard Cabernet Sauvi- Geyser Peak 2006 Reserve Alexandre Mer- 88 gnon (Oak Knoll); $50. Shows some pretty Steltzner 2007 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 89 itage (Alexander Valley); $50. Lots of flashy good acids and tannins, which makes the wine feel juicy 91 (Stags Leap District); $40. A young, tannic black and red currant and cedar flavors in this dry and brisk in candied blackberry and cherry fruit. Fin- wine that needs some time in the bottle to come Cabernet. It finishes with an intense taste of blackberry ishes almost sweet, but not quite, with the tannins clos- around. Beneath the firm tannins are fleshy, olivaceous essence and spice. The tannins are intricate and ing in and drying things out. The impression is of an notes of blackberries, black cherries, mocha and oak. refined. Experienced tasters will recognize them as immature wine, not showing well now. Give it 5–6 years Seems balanced enough for development over the next uniquely Alexander Valley. Drink now–2014. —S.H. in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. six years. —S.H. Kenefick Ranch 2007 Chris’ Cuvée Caber- Barlow 2006 Unfiltered Cabernet Sauvi- Tayson Pierce Estate Wines 2006 Cabernet 89 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $60. Quite a 87 gnon (Napa Valley); $50. A strong, bold 91 Sauvignon (St. Helena); $80. Sweetly good wine, rich and ripe, with plump blackberry, young wine, with good varietal flavors of blackberries charred oak presently dominates the blackberry and cherry, anise and cedar flavors, wrapped into firm tan- and black currants. It’s hard in tannins now, and the cherry flavors that finish so long and strong in fruity nins. Feels a bit rugged and astringent, but could blos- oak hasn’t been integrated even though the wine is power. The tannins are big and hard, making the wine som over the next 5–6 years. —S.H. nearing the five year mark. Somehow, it doesn’t seem clumsy and rude in youth. Yet it has the overall balance like a longterm ager, but it will benefit from a couple to age well. Give it up to a decade in a cool cellar. Cel- Vine Cliff 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa years in the bottle. —S.H. lar Selection. —S.H. 89 Valley); $55. Aging may make this Cabernet more harmonious than it is now. It’s a dramatic wine, Charles Krug 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Turnbull 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa ripe in blackberries and cassis, rich in oak, and with 87 (Napa Valley); $27. Made in a heavy, dense 91 Valley); $40. A fine Cabernet from this veteran smooth, intricate tannins. Yet it’s klutzy now, almost style, with extracted fruit flavors and lots of oak, this producer, elegant and stylish. Not one of your fruit rude, like a gawky teenager who’s growing too fast. Give Cab is immediately flashy in chocolate, blackberry jam bombs, it shows modulated blackberry, currant and herb it 4–5 years to mellow. —S.H. and toast. It delivers in richness, yet lacks a certain vital- flavors, leading to a long, spicy finish. Really distin- ity. Drink now. —S.H. guished, although it’s not an ager. Contains a splash of Buehler 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Syrah and Petite Sirah for complexity and color. —S.H. 88 Valley); $25. Pretty good price for a Napa Clos du Val 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet as elegant as this. It’s a polished wine for 87 (Carneros); $35. Very dry and tannic. Treads Wine Spots 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon drinking now. Shows smooth, refined tannins, with the line between elegant and boring. Some good cherry 91 (Napa Valley); $25. For full review see page 6. interesting flavors of blackberries, red plums, red cur- and blackberry flavors erupt midpalate, but it’s really a Editors’ Choice. rants, tobacco and dusty spices. Easy to find, with fairly lean, earthy Cabernet. The score reflects where it 15,000 cases produced. —S.H. could end up in, say, eight years. —S.H. Cinnabar 2008 Mercury Rising (California); $21. For full review see page 6. Editors’ Joseph Family 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Cobblestone 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon 90 1 Choice. 88 (Alexander Valley); $36. A very rich, ripe 87 (Atlas Peak); $44. At the age of 5 ⁄2 years, this Cabernet, expressive in black cherry, mocha, cola, sweet Cabernet is still very forward and sweet in blackberry, La Jota Vineyard 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- herb and cedar flavors. It’s a little young, so give it 3–4 cherry, anise and cedar flavors. The tannins are rich 90 gnon (Howell Mountain); $65. A strong years in the bottle, but this is not a wine to age for a and thick, in the way of mountain grapes. The wine Cabernet that’s so tightly wound in tannins, it’s hard to long time. —S.H. tastes a bit one-dimensional, although it could be going appreciate, despite plenty of fruit. There’s also a green through an awkward phase. —S.H. olive earthiness to the sweet blackberries and cedar. Salvestrin 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Showing its immaturity now, so give it a good six years 88 Helena); $55. Immature now, with sweet, Geyser Peak 2007 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. jammy blackberry, cassis and charred oak flavors, 87 gnon (Alexander Valley); $45. Nice and dry, wrapped into firm, hard tannins. Tastes almost rustic, a full-bodied red wine whose dusty tannins and dried Ramian 2007 Chapter VII Cabernet Sauvi- but there’s pedigree in there. Give it a few years and see herb notes testify to its Alexander Valley terroir. Not a 90 gnon (Mount Veeder); $59. Smells great and what happens. —S.H. blockbuster, but rich enough in cherries and blackber- flashy, with inviting notes of blackberries, black cur- ries to satisfy. Now–2013. —S.H. rants, green olives and spicy sandalwood. Candied and Somerston 2007 Priest Ranch Cabernet sweet in the mouth, with blackberry and black cherry 88 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $38. Young, strong Lake Sonoma 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon fruit. Tasted in March, 2011, the wine could well have and vigorous. Despite a plethora of ripe blackberries, 87 (Alexander Valley); $20. Lots of smooth tan- been going through an awkward period. Should re- plums and dark chocolate, this Cab seems to lack some nins and succulent raspberry, cherry, cocoa and cedar emerge by Fall and age well. —S.H. breeding and elegance. Could surprise down the road. flavors in this dry Cabernet. It’s a bit sharp, but will Try after 2014. —S.H. pair nicely with steaks and chops, and the price isn’t Sanctuary 2008 Usibelli Vineyard Caber- bad. —S.H. 90 net Sauvignon (Rutherford); $30. A beauti- Spottswoode 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon ful Cabernet, at a price that makes it a bargain. It’s 88 (St. Helena); $130. Feels a bit common and Mockingbird 2007 Red Label Cabernet drinking really well now, with soft, dusty tannins and a rustic now, with uneven tannins and some green, minty 87 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $170. A contro-

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 versial wine, tasted twice. It’s soft and tannic, with can- BonAnno 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Magness 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa died cherry-berry, mocha and sweet oak flavors. Seems 85 Valley); $20. Soft in the mouth and sweet in 82 Valley); $20. Give this soft, simple Cab a little at once dull and powerful. Hard to know where it’s extracted fruit, with blackberry and cherry jam flavors. time to blow off some unpleasant odors. After a while, it going, but the benefit of the doubt suggests 4–5 years in No problem getting ripe, but it could be drier and bet- clears, and the wine turns acceptable in berry-cherry the cellar. —S.H. ter structured. —S.H. flavor. —S.H.

Pezzi King 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry Bota Box 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali- flipflop 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Califor- 87 Creek Valley); $20. This is a good, dry, spicy 85 fornia); $20. If more Americans are drinking 81 nia); $7. Just barely acceptable for its medicinal Cabernet. It shows the briary character of Dry Creek wine from a box, it’s because of values like this 3L, the taste and harsh texture. Shows some sweet blackber- Valley, with flavors of wild berries and tobacco, and equivalent of four regular bottles. The wine is dry, ries on the finish. —S.H. sandpapery tannins. Good price for a wine that gets smooth and flavorful, and the blackberries, herbs and better as it breathes in the glass. —S.H. spices are pleasant. Best Buy. —S.H. MERLOT Steltzner 2007 Pool Block Cabernet Sauvi- Janzen 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa 87 gnon (Stags Leap District); $55. Dry, but 85 Valley); $50. Soft, overripe and simple, with Clos du Val 2008 Merlot (Napa Valley); with some overripe notes, this Cabernet has aromas chocolate-covered raisin, cassis and caramelized oak fla- 90 $30. A dry, smooth Merlot that hews to the Clos and flavors of raisins, blackberries, cassis, dark choco- vors. It’s delicious, in the modern style of ripe extrac- du Val style of lean fruit. The cherry, mocha and cedar late and oak. The tannins are rich and smooth. Seems tion, but lacks structure and dryness. —S.H. flavors have an edge of dried herbs and tobacco. Drink best now, after a decant. —S.H. this elegant wine now and through 2014. —S.H. Pennywise 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cal- Thirteen Appellations 2007 Meritage ifornia); $12. A lusty wine, soft and filled with Reynolds Family Winery 2007 Merlot 85 (Stags Leap District); $40. 87 (Napa Valley); $80. Very dark in color, dense jammy blackberry, cherry and raspberry flavors. Easy to 90 A nice Merlot and thick in the mouth, and tight in astringent tannins. drink, a great wine for big parties. —S.H. whose rich tannins and elegance mark its Napa origins. Clearly an immature wine not showing well. The black- Although it finishes dry, it fills the mouth with ripe, berry and cherry flavors are impressive, but the wine Redtree 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali- sweet cherry, red currant, toast and caramel flavors. Needs lots of breathing to let it mellow. —S.H. seems disjointed. Cellaring is a gamble. —S.H. 85 fornia); $8. For full review see page 9. Best Buy. Matanzas Creek 2007 Merlot (Bennett Val- Valley of the Moon 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- ley); $35. Quite a good wine, dry and firm in gnon (Sonoma County); $18. For full review Rock Wall 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 87 87 tannins, with a certain distinguished elegance. It has see page 7. Editors’ Choice. (Napa Valley); $38. Lots of juicy cherry and 85 pleasant black and red cherry fruit, cola and sandal- raspberry flavors in this Cabernet, with a caramelized wood flavors, but would benefit from greater complex- Black Stallion 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon brown sugar sweetness, like it was baked into a pie. ity and interest. Drink now. —S.H. 86 (Napa Valley); $23. A little sharp and one- Drink this easy, soft wine now. —S.H. dimensional, but it shows ripe flavors of blackberries Steltzner 2007 Estate Merlot (Stags Leap and black currants, enhanced with toasty oak. At its best Geyser Peak 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon District); $34. An easy Merlot for drinking now now. —S.H. (Alexander Valley); $18. Soft and herbal, 87 84 despite the firm tannins. Shows cherry, raisin, red with modest cherry and oak flavors. A simple, dry wine licorice, cola and bacon flavors that finish just a bit De Sante 2007 Oakville Terraces Cabernet to wash down everyday fare. —S.H. sweet. Let it breathe for an hour or two before serving. Sauvignon (Oakville); $70. An average, 86 —S.H. everyday Cab, dense and soft, made in the style of ripe Little Stone Vineyard 2007 Adrian’s fruit and lots of oak. Tasted twice, with considerable 84 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- Pennywise 2009 Merlot (California); $12. ley); $19. bottle variation. —S.H. Soft, thin and simple. Other than that, it’s 84 Good cherry, cocoa and sweet oak flavors in this not bad, with proper blackberry and spice flavors and dry wine. It’s too soft, lacking structure, but is a pretty Geyser Peak 2007 Block Collection Walk- smooth tannins. Give it greater concentration, and the good buy for the price. —S.H. 86 ing Tree Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander score would rise. —S.H. Valley); $25. Shows strong, extracted blackberry and flipflop 2009 Merlot (California); $7. Can- black cherry flavors, with a pie-filling spicy intensity. Roth 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexan- 83 died and simple, with raspberry and cherry Almost too much of a good thing. Might improve a little 84 der Valley); $28. Sweet, soft and candied, with Lifesaver flavors. Okay for big parties. —S.H. in the bottle with a year or two. —S.H. black cherry and raspberry jam, Dr. Pepper cola and cedar flavors. Seems pricey for what you get. —S.H. San Antonio 2007 Cask 520 (Paso Robles); PETITE SIRAH 86 $30. Soft and creamy, like a chocolate and black Terra Valentine 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon raspberry drink, sprinkled with pepper and cinnamon. 84 (Spring Mountain); $40. There’s a vegetable Sean Thackrey 2008 Sirius Eaglepoint Almost like a Port in its sweetness. —S.H. aroma in this wine, not exactly herbs, more like aspara- 93 Ranch Petite Sirah (Mendocino County); gus. In the mouth, the Cab tastes soft, sweet and can- $45. Eaglepoint Ranch has been source to powerful Steltzner 2008 Claret (Napa Valley); $18. died. Average at best, and not an ager. —S.H. red wines for many years, and here’s another one. It 86 Dry and brittle, with some sharp tannic edges. impressives for the volume of tannins and fruity Yet it’s good and ripe in blackberries, cherries, currants Oberon 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa ripeness. Swamps the mouth with blackberry and and cedar. Decent price for a Napa Cab. —S.H. 83 Valley); $22. Soft, simple and a little vegetal, cherry marmalade, bacon, pepper spice and smoky oak with modest blackberry and oak flavors. The tannins flavors that are huge, yet balanced in tannins, oak and Terra Valentine 2007 Yverdon Vineyard are well-sculpted. —S.H. acidity. The alcohol is 15.2%. —S.H. 86 Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain); $65. Sharp, simple and candied, with blackberry jam Pianetta 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mon- Shypoke 2008 Amelia’s Block Petite Sirah and cola flavors. The tannins are rugged, and the wine 83 terey); $30. Way too sweet for a 90 (Calistoga); $34. This is a dark, inky Petite finishes with a scour of acidity. Seems at its best now. — that’s supposed to be dry. Almost like a dessert wine, Sirah, dense in tannins and full-bodied. It basically S.H. with sugary cherry and raspberry flavors. —S.H. takes command of the palate and puts up a wall of

WineMag.com | 41 BUYING I GUIDE astringency. That’s young Petite Sirah for you. Behind Thomas Fogarty 2008 Rapley Trail Vine- Thomas Fogarty 2008 Windy Hill Vineyard that wall are rich flavors of blackberries and currants, 94 yard Block M Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz 92 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains); $50. with a generous sweetness from toasty oak, and finished Mountains); $70. A beautiful Pinot Noir that shows This Pinot Noir needs a few years in the cellar to mel- with a hit of acidity. You should cellar this wine for at how well the variety does in these mountains, and it’s low, although you can decant it now to let it breathe. It’s least six years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. sad that vineyard acreage is so low due to housing very rich in cherries, raspberries, licorice and sweet, development. The wine is dry, silky and vastly interest- smoky oak, with a soft, silky texture. Shows a real sense Esoterica by Kent Rasmussen 2008 Chavez- ing in cherries, raspberries, Dr. Pepper cola, red of sophistication. —S.H. 86 Leeds Vineyard Petite Sirah (Rutherford); licorice, white pepper and sandalwood flavors. Com- $40. Rich in blackberry tart, dark chocolate, grilled pelling and complex now, it should age over the next six Chime 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County); meat, pepper spice and smoky flavors, wrapped into years. —S.H. 91 $19. For full review see page 5. Editors’ firm tannins. The acidity is strong and a little unnerving. Choice. Drink over the next 2–3 years. —S.H. Zotovich Cellars 2007 Estate Pinot Noir 94 (Sta. Rita Hills); $40. This is a dark, big, dense Churchill Cellars 2008 Bella Sonoma Vine- Bardessono 2008 Petite Sirah (Napa Val- Pinot Noir, and while some wines of this style are heavy 91 yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); $39. This 85 ley); $30. Shows Petite Sirah’s rustic, tannic and dull, this one isn’t. It’s alive with zesty acidity, and has Pinot is made in a lighter style, but it’s complex and nature, with a robust body housing flavors of berries, the deepest cherry-berry flavors you can imagine. Lovely interesting. It’s marked by dryness and acidic crispness. currants, carob powder, crisp bacon and sandalwood. spices, too, all tingly and mouthwatering. An important The raspberry, cola and persimmon flavors are enriched With its sweet finish, it doesn’t seem like a longterm addition to the Santa Rita pantheon, and it should with a touch of sweet, smoky oak. Seems best now, but ager, but will mellow over the next several years. —S.H. change interestingly over the next six years. —S.H. it could surprise over the next six years. —S.H.

Pedroncelli 2008 Family Vineyards Petite Failla 2009 Pearlessence Vineyard Pinot Churchill Cellars 2008 Bella Luna Vineyard Sirah (Dry Creek Valley); $15. Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); $45. 85 Good price 93 Noir (Sonoma Coast); $42. Made in an exotic 91 Give for a Petite Sirah that is perfect for drinking now with style that will divide purists into opposing camps. It’s this polished Pinot an hour or two of decanting and roasts, barbecue, Mexican food. It’s dry and rustic in dark, rich and almost heavy, with the weight of a serve it now with a good steak, or try prosciutto- tannins, with strong blackberry, coffee and red currant Grenache. Yet it’s utterly delicious, dazzling in wild wrapped dates for an exotic appetizer. It’s dry, rich and spicy, with ripe cherry, red currant, cola and bacon fla- flavors. —S.H. raspberry and cherry essence, thyme, cola, pie spice vors, edged with sweet, smoky sandalwood. —S.H. and sandalwood flavors. A fascinating wine that should Pennywise 2009 Petite Sirah (California); do interesting things in the cellar. —S.H. 83 $12. A sound everyday wine. For a decent Thomas Fogarty 2008 Rapley Trail Vine- yard Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains); price, you get a full-bodied, dry Petite Sirah, with Siduri 2009 Van der Kamp Vineyard Pinot 91 plenty of berry jam and spice flavors. Easy to find, with $50. This is a very nice Pinot Noir for drinking soon. Noir (Sonoma Mountain); $48. Firm in tan- 10,000 cases produced. —S.H. 93 It’s dry, silky and somewhat earthy and herbal, but turns nins, mouthwatering in acids, and bone dry, this is a rich in cherries toward the finish. Feels elegant and wine to hold for a while. The vineyard consistently Ramsay 2009 Petite Sirah (North Coast); complex all the way through. —S.H. yields rich, complex Pinots from various wineries, and $19. Too sharp in acids, giving the cherry and 82 Siduri again captures its essence as they have for many raspberry flavors a real bite. Almost sour on the finish. Calera 2008 Ryan Pinot Noir (Mt. Harlan); years. The wine, which is one of Siduri’s ripest, shows Drink now. —S.H. $40. This bottling is always silky and accessible wild forest cherry, raspberry, cola and spice flavors, with 90 on release, and so it is with the 2008. It’s lighter in color a feral quality suggesting grilled wild mushrooms and Redtree 2009 Petite Sirah (California); $8. than most of the top Pinots, but very complex, with wild 82 Soft and simple, with candied fruit, cola and balsam. Give it 2–3 years. —S.H. berry, mushroom, cola and spice flavors, brightened with spice flavors. —S.H. crisp acidity. Call it Burgundian. Lovely now as it warms Failla 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); in the glass, but will develop in the bottle. —S.H. Victor Hugo 2007 Petite Sirah (Paso Rob- 92 $34. With its spicy, wild berry and pine notes, 81 les); $22. So acidic, it’s like a flame thrower this Pinot bears Failla’s distinctive mark. It’s a dry, com- Sean Thackrey 2008 Andromeda Devil’s down the tongue, like somebody spilled too much acid plex and exotic young wine, brisk in acidity and wonder- 90 Gulch Ranch Pinot Noir (Marin County); into the vat. With raspberry and cherry flavors, it has fully silky and elegant in the mouth. If you’re into flavor $45. An eccentric wine. Rather heavy for a classic coastal the taste of a sweet and sour throat lozange. —S.H. identifiers, they’re wild raspberries and cherries. Good Pinot Noir, yet not without charismatic charm. Shows price for a fine Failla wine. Best now and for the next rich, deep flavors of wild raspberries, toffee, vanilla bean Estrella Creek 2005 Petite Sirah (Paso Rob- six years. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. and smoky wood. Gathers momentum and interest as it 80 les); $29. Tastes old, tired and vegetal, with breathes in the glass. Could substitute for everything modest berry flavors. It’s also too soft and sweet. The Siduri 2009 Cargasacchi Vineyard Pinot from Zinfandel to Grenache. Drink now. —S.H. alcohol seems higher and hotter than the official read- 92 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $50. Give this wine at ing of 14.3%. —S.H. least two years in the cellar. Tasted in February, it’s way Siduri 2009 Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir too young to appreciate, being dominated by oak, tan- 90 (Green Valley); $50. A good Pinot Noir, lusty, nins and primary cherry and pomegranate fruit. But it’s dry and fruity, although it’s a bit raw in youth. Shows PINOT NOIR clearly well grown and made, and shows its pedigree in rich cherry marmalade, cola, spice and sandalwood fla- the superb structure and dryness. —S.H. vors, brightened with crisp acidity. The vineyard is not Failla 2009 Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir (Russ- among the valley’s best, but Siduri interprets it as well 95 ian River Valley); $45. Failla has been work- Thomas Fogarty 2008 Rapley Trail Vine- as anyone. —S.H. ing with the fruit from this coveted vineyard for a long 92 yard Block B Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Moun- time, and has figured it out better than anyone. How tains); $70. A huge Pinot Noir, rich and delicious. V. Sattui 2009 Doctor’s Vineyard Pinot they take basic Russian River Valley cherry, raspberry Shows great terroir, like it really comes from some- 90 Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands); $40. The win- and cola flavors and uplift the wine into the extraordi- where. A little soft in acids, but enormously lush in ery used to make an indifferent Pinot Noir from narily exotic is inexplicable. But they do. An amazingly cherries and raspberries, with a firm minerality that Carneros, but now they have some good fruit, and the complex, compelling young Pinot Noir. Drink must come from the ground. Aging could be a problem improvement shows. The wine is delightful, with crisp now–2019, at least. —S.H. given the softness, but it’s lovely now. —S.H. acidity brightening very ripe flavors of raspberries, cola

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 and black cherries, with lots of smoky oak. Drink this Tudal 2008 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot Noir and a little heavy. It has cherry, cola, licorice, white pep- complex wine now and for the next few years. —S.H. 88 (Russian River Valley); $50. The vineyard is per and smoky oak flavors, and the tannins are thick. in a warmer part of the valley, and the wine is a bit rus- Lacks the vibrancy normally associated with this winery. Windstream 2009 Sarmento Vineyard tic, lacking some delicacy. But it has deeply delicious —S.H. 90 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands); $40. raspberry and cherry pie filling flavors, with earth and With zesty acidity and plenty of upfront fruit flavor, this licorice notes elaborated by smoky oak. Give it a good, flipflop 2009 Pinot Noir (California); $7. Pinot is ready to drink now and over the next two years. long decant. —S.H. 85 For full review see page 9. Best Buy. It’s rich and vibrant in cherry pie filling, red currant, red licorice, bacon, cola, pepper and sandalwood flavors. Zotovich Cellars 2008 Estate Pinot Noir Indulge 2009 Pinot Noir (Central Coast); —S.H. 88 (Sta. Rita Hills); $38. Deliciously ripe, jammy 85 $20. A pretty good Pinot that, at the equivalent cherry, raspberry and cola fruit star on this dry wine, of ten bucks a bottle, is a nice buy. It’s an easy wine, dry, Calera 2008 de Villiers Pinot Noir (Mt. Har- with a sweet edge of smoky oak. The all-important tan- light-bodied and silky, with modest cherry and spice 89 lan); $35. Here’s a good, dry and fairly complex nins are smooth and refined. But there’s a hit of heat flavors. —S.H. from high alcohol that makes the finish hot. The official Pinot Noir from the same estate as Calera’s better and alcohol on this ’08 is far higher than it was on the fabu- more expensive block bottings. It’s light bodied and Scott Cellars 2009 First Mesa Pinot Noir lous 2007 bottling. —S.H. spicy, with earthy notes of tobacco, herbs, cherries and 85 (Santa Maria Valley); $38. Sharp and minty, sandalwood. Drink now, after a good decanting. —S.H. with a wintergreen tartness to the fruitier cherries and Calera 2009 Pinot Noir (Central Coast); herb tea. The wine is supple and dry, with a lovely silky $24. Calera’s basic Central Coast Pinot is a Pali 2009 Riviera Pinot Noir (Sonoma 87 texture, but the acidity is strong. —S.H. good, drily crisp wine, showing some real elegance. A 89 Coast); $19. Shows lots of class and finesse for little heavy, it shows cherry, red currant, herb, tobacco, Armanino Family Cellars 2009 The a Sonoma Coast Pinot that’s under $20. It’s fully dry teriaki beef and sandalwood flavors. Drink now. More Whitewing Amber Ridge Vineyard Pinot and zesty in acidity, with rich tannins framing cherry, 84 than 12,000 cases were produced. —S.H. Noir (Russian River Valley); $50. pomegranate, cola, spice and sandalwood flavors. A There’s a burnt, ashy smell and taste to this wine that makes it tough to great starter Pinot if you’re just getting into the variety. Castle Rock 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir (Russ- like. If you can get past that, the wine is dry, crisp and Production was 3,576 cases. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. ian River Valley); $18. 87 A good, rich, everyday tannic, with wild cherry, cola and cedar flavors. A huge Pinot Noir. Doesn’t seem all that much better than the disappointment. Tasted twice. —S.H. Thomas Fogarty 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa winery’s less inexpensive, non-reserve bottlings, but pol- Cruz Mountains); $30. Fogarty’s basic Pinot 89 ished enough, with raspberry, cherry, cola and oak fla- Byron 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara Noir is very good, although it’s not a wine for aging. vors. —S.H. County); $17. A raw, dry Pinot, marked by thin With its soft dryness and rich tannins, it shows polished 84 cherry and tobacco flavors, and a scour of acidity and flavors of cherries, cola, herbs, cinnamon spice and sub- Clos du Val 2007 Reserve Pinot Noir alcohol. The texture is nice and silky, and the finish is tle oak. —S.H. (Carneros); $55. Somewhat lean and dry, a 87 clean. Drink up. —S.H. wine whose tobacco, pepper and herb flavors over- Wedell Cellars 2008 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita shadow its cherries and red currants. Call it elegant, Picket Fence 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River Hills); $70. This is a big, rich, heavy Pinot Noir, and drink now and over the next few years. —S.H. 89 Valley); $18. Tough and acidic in the mouth, lacking vital structure. It feels flat. But the flavors are 84 but with a nice silky texture, and the finish is dry. Shows enormously beautiful, rich in baked cherry pie filling, Guarachi Family 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma cherry and raspberry flavors, alongside less ripe ones of Dr. Pepper cola, ginger cookie, sautéed mushroom and Coast); $65. Dark and heavy for a Pinot Noir, 87 green mint, with a touch of the veggies. —S.H. smoky vanilla oak. Gains extra points for the sheer although it’s certainly well made and delicious. Floods the mouth with cherry and raspberry pie-filling fruit, drama of the flavors. —S.H. Red Pony Ranch 2008 Pinot Noir (Central and the smoky, caramelized oak has a granola sweet- Coast); $15. A light Pinot Noir, dry and acidic, Churchill Cellars 2008 Two Vineyard Blend ness. Drink now. —S.H. 84 with cherry, red licorice and sandalwood flavors. Pretty Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); $45. Churchill 88 Pali 2009 Bluffs Pinot Noir (Russian River good for the price. —S.H. makes Pinots in a lighter-bodied style, but they’re still Valley); $19. elegant and complex. This translucent wine is silky in 87 Dry, tart and dependable, if not especially complex, a nice Pinot for drinking now. Dusty Red Pony Ranch 2008 Pinot Noir (Santa the mouth, and the raspberry, cherry, and cola flavors tannins frame fine flavors of sour cherry candy, rasp- 84 Maria Valley); $25. Give this young Pinot a are enhanced with brisk acidity. Best Now–2014. —S.H. berry jam, cola and sweet oak. —S.H. few hours in a to let it air. Right out of the bot- tle, it’s tough and tight, with polished cherry and oak Kenwood 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River Wedell Cellars 2007 Hillside Vineyard flavors. Drink now. —S.H. Valley); $16. For full review see page 7. Edi- 88 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley); $125. A dark, rich, tors’ Choice. 87 concentrated wine that’s not particularly Pinot-like in Red Pony Ranch 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa body. It’s more like a Rhône wine. But it’s good and 83 Barbara County); $20. Light bodied and sim- Roth 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); $27. savory, with cherry and blackberry jam, baked pie crust ple, with dry, thin flavors of Lifesaver cherry candy. In 88 Some Sonoma Coast Pinots are dark, heavy and and spicy sandalwood flavors that turn overripe and Pinot Noir, you generally get what you pay for. —S.H. dense, and this is one of them. It’s so rich and full-bodied raisiny as you swallow. —S.H. in black cherry, raspberry and currant fruit, it’s almost like a Rhône wine. Defines a certain style, and delicious Armanino Family Cellars 2009 The Pintail SANGIOVESE at that, but not likely to age, so drink now. —S.H. 86 Doctor’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands); $50. Here’s a dark, big, tannic and rather Shypoke 2008 Olivia’s Block Sangiovese Siduri 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High- ponderous Pinot Noir. It could almost be Grenache, it’s 88 (Calistoga); $29. Lots of toasty oak on this dry 88 lands); $29. Young, fresh and vibrant, Just so heavy. Shows good cherry fruit, with a sweet cover of Sangiovese. It avoids the problems that often plague what you’d want a generic Santa Lucia Pinot to be, with smoky oak. Seems best now. —S.H. this variety, coming down on the lighter-bodied side, full-bodied tannins and potent cherry, currant, mushu dry and crisp in acidity, with pleasant cherry, tobacco plum sauce and dusty spice flavors. Drink this dry wine Gainey 2008 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); and spice flavors. Try as an interesting alternative to now. —S.H. 86 $30. Gainey’s basic Pinot is dry, dark in color Zinfandel. —S.H.

WineMag.com | 43 BUYING I GUIDE

Scott Cellars 2008 Reserve White Hawk vineyard in Napa Valley, this wine is usually referred to ity of Novy’s single-vineyard Syrahs, it’s drily elegant, 84 Vineyard Sangiovese (Santa Barbara as Syrah, but its exact components are difficult to with complex blackberry, cola, herb and pepper flavors County); $42. Simple and sweet, a hot, acidic wine define, except to call the wine Rhône-like. It’s luxuri- that shift in the glass as the wine airs. Drink now. Edi- with cherry, red currant and cola flavors. Lacks balance ously soft in the mouth, with complex flavors of black tors’ Choice. —S.H. and complexity, especially at this price. —S.H. raspberries, cocoa, cola, herbs, peppery spices and san- dalwood. Extraordinarily rich, the wine develops bottle Cinnabar 2008 Sextant Vineyard Syrah Pianetta 2008 Sangiovese (Monterey); nuances as it warms in the glass. —S.H. 87 (Paso Robles); $36. Rich, dry and tannic, this 83 $26. Dry and very acidic, with a cutting edge of Syrah has elaborate flavors of dried plums, blackber- tartness alongside the cherry and tobacco flavors. Rich Donelan 2009 Walker Vine Hill Syrah ries, coffee, dark bitter chocolate and black pepper. It’s meats and cheeses will help soften it. —S.H. 92 (Russian River Valley); $45. Very young, a complex wine, compromised only by the heat of needs plenty of time. Still showing fermentation notes, 15.4% alcohol. —S.H. Scott Cellars 2008 Sand Dune Sangiovese with brisk, grapey acidity and primary cherry and rasp- 81 (Santa Barbara County); $28. Hot in alco- berry fruit flavors. Seems brilliantly constructed and Krow Shore 2008 Syrah (Santa Barbara); hol, acidic and sweet in raspberries and cherries, this capable of aging, though. Hold until after 2012. Cellar 87 $16. Good price for a rich, textured Syrah. bizarre wine does not advance the argument for San- Selection. —S.H. Shows delicious cherry, black raspberry, chocolate, anise, giovese in California. —S.H. pepper and sandalwood flavors, wrapped into smooth Hall 2007 Darwin Red Wine (Napa Valley); tannins. Drink this soft, fruity Syrah now. —S.H. 92 $40. For full review see page 5. SYRAH Pianetta 2007 Estate Bottled Syrah (Mon- Rusack 2008 Syrah (Santa Barbara 87 terey); $25. Lots of acidity and black pepper in Donelan 2008 Richards Family Vineyard 92 County); $25. A huge wine, explosive in ripe this bone-dry wine, giving it a scoury mouthfeel. But Syrah (Sonoma Valley); $90. 97 This is not only fruit, elaborated with rich oak and wrapped into you’ll find very rich, elaborate blackberry and cherry one of the best Syrahs of the vintage, it’s easily the smooth, sweet tannins. Made from vineyards through- jam, chocolate and bacon flavors. Drink now. —S.H. greatest Syrah ever produced from Sonoma Valley. out the county, it dazzles with a complex of blackberry Stuns with its soft, complex, black and blue berry, teri- jam, mocha, date, bacon and smoky sandalwood flavors. Taj 2007 Syrah (Los Carneros); $24. A aki beef, black pepper and sandalwood flavors. The Really impressive, especially at this price. Drink smooth, ripe Syrah, easy and soft in the mouth, depth is unbelievable, the length impressive. Clearly a Now–2015. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 87 with richly extracted berry, mocha, white pepper and first growth Syrah, and should develop bottle complex- sandalwood flavors. It’s a dry, balanced wine showing ity for the next six years, if not longer. —S.H. Zotovich Cellars 2008 Estate Syrah (Sta. some real elegance.—S.H. 91 Rita Hills); $42. A rich, robust Syrah, impressive Donelan 2008 Cuvée Keltie Syrah for sheer volume and intensity. Floods the mouth with Baldassari Family Wines 2007 Jemrose (Sonoma County); $75. 94 A beautiful young ripe flavors of blackberries, cassis, chocolate, smoked Vineyard Syrah (Bennett Valley); $30. wine, notable for two things, its balance and generosity. meats, black pepper and cedar. High in alcohol, which 86 Fruity enough, with powerfully ripe blackberry, cherry, Feels wonderfully structured, with superb tannins and a will alarm purists, and there’s some burn on the finish. raspberry, currant, chocolate and licorice flavors that fine dose of acidity framing massive blackberry, cur- The wine calls for richly slathered barbecue. —S.H. go on and on through the long, spicy finish. Could show rant, bacon, black pepper, mineral and sandalwood fla- greater structure, though, as it’s somewhat soft, sweet vors. Bone dry, it’s a superior Syrah that should develop Beckmen 2008 Purisima Mountain Vine- and unidimensional. —S.H. over the next 4–6 years. —S.H. 90 yard Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley); $48. On par with the ’07 vintage, if not quite so captivating. It’s a Taj 2007 Syrah (Sonoma Valley); $24. Nice Donelan 2009 Kobler Family Vineyard soft, luxuriously velvety wine, rich in blackberry jam, 94 Syrah (Green Valley); $45. For full review chocolate, violet, smoked meat and sandalwood flavors, 86 blackberry, mocha, teriyaki beef and pepper fla- see page 3. Cellar Selection. generously spiced. The official alcohol is 14.7%, but it vors in this dry, smoothly tannic wine. It’s too soft to seems higher and hotter than that. —S.H. show development in the bottle, but is pretty good for Michael David 2008 6th Sense Syrah Syrah drinking now. —S.H. (Lodi); $16. For full review see page 4. Edi- Donelan 2008 Cuvée Christine Syrah 93 Baldassari Family Wines 2007 Nolan Vine- tors’ Choice. 90 (North Coast); $45. This elegantly fruity wine is made for drinking now with spicy meats, like sausages 85 yards Syrah (Bennett Valley); $27. Soft, Novy 2008 Syrah (Santa Lucia Highlands); and lamb chops. It’s dry and velvety in the mouth, with sweet in jammy raspberry and cherry fruit and 93 $27. A very fine Syrah, dry, peppery and distin- appealing flavors of raspberries and cherries, Dr. Pep- caramelized oak, this Syrah is somewhat simple. It’s guished. Really defines the cool-climate style of the per cola and peppery spices, accented with sweet, good, but would benefit from greater structure. —S.H. variety, a full-bodied wine with blackberry, grilled meat smoky oak. —S.H. and sweetly smoked, sandalwood flavors. The tannins Borra 2008 47.5 Degree Limited Release are very refined. The quality of this wine far exceeds Donelan 2008 Kobler Family Vineyard 85 Syrah (Clements Hills); $35. Jammy and yet the price. A great restaurant Syrah, but production was 90 Syrah (Green Valley); $45. A tough, tannic still savory, a fairly straightforward Syrah from the only 398 cases. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. young wine that will benefit from two or three years in Clements Hills area of Lodi, small production (240 the bottle, but probably no more. It’s bone dry and cases), 100% varietal and made using native fermenta- Rusack 2008 Ballard Canyon Estate Syrah astringent now, with an intense core of blackberries, tion, the wine has solid tannin structure and a heady 93 (Santa Barbara County); $36. From Rusack’s grilled meat and black pepper. Give it a few hours in a texture, but could use more oomph on the finish. —V.B. estate vineyard, this is a very fine, young Syrah. It shows decanter before pouring. —S.H. rich blackberry, red currant, licorice, cocoa, smoked D.H. Gustafson 2010 Heritage Tree Vine- meat and sandalwood flavors, but is also quite tannic, Valley of the Moon 2008 Syrah (Sonoma 85 yard Rosé of Syrah (Dry Creek Valley); and some of those tannins come from new oak. If you 89 County); $16. For full review see page 7. Edi- $20. A pretty good rosé, full-bodied and robust in black drink it now, give it a good decant. Should hold in the tors’ Choice. cherry, strawberry, Dr. Pepper cola, rosehip tea and bottle for at least six years. —S.H. spice flavors. It finishes a little sweet. —S.H. Novy 2009 Syrah (Sonoma County); $19. Sean Thackrey 2008 Orion Rossi Vineyard 88 Great price for a Syrah this good, from this San Simeon 2007 Syrah (Paso Robles); 93 (St. Helena); $90. Made from a 106-year-old esteemed producer. While it doesn’t have the complex- 83 $25. You’ll find smooth, polished tannins on this

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 full-bodied wine, but it’s all downhill from there. It’s berries, mocha and roasted hazelnuts. Editors’ Choice. soft and gentle and slightly sweet. The raspberry, licorice, excessively soft, and the finish is sugary sweet. —S.H. —S.H. raisin and cocoa flavors are rich and spicy. —S.H.

Sobon Estate 2008 Cougar Hill Zinfandel Rock Wall 2009 Stagecoach Vineyard Zin- ZINFANDEL 88 (Amador County); $17. For full review see 84 fandel (Napa Valley); $40. A bizarre inter- page 7. pretation of this vineyard, which usually produces V. Sattui 2008 Black-Sears Vineyard Zin- magnificent wines. This Zin is soft and melted, lacking fandel (Howell Mountain); $40. Greenwood Ridge 2008 Scherrer Vineyard 93 The vine- supportive structure, and it’s as sweet as a raspberry Zinfandel (Sonoma County); $27. yard has been source of good Zinfandel for V. Sattui, 87 Tastes and sugar confection. —S.H. and this is their best yet. The wine is enormously rich jammy and sharp, like a barrel sample, with acidic flavors and ripe in berry, cherry, currant, mocha and pepper of raspberries, black cherries and spices. The tannins are Taj 2008 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley); $24. flavors, but its structure really warrants attention. Per- rich and smooth. A very good wine, but bristly and tough Tough and gritty, with uneven tannins and fectly firm tannins, fine acidity, and a touch of mineral- in youth. Give it a few years to mellow. —S.H. 84 some minty green flavors alongside the cherries, mul- ity gives the wine grounding. The alcohol is high, but in keeping with the wine’s expression. —S.H. Pezzi King 2008 Old Vines Zinfandel (Dry berries and red currants. Not going anywhere, so drink 87 Creek Valley); $24. This lusty Zinfandel was up. —S.H. Dark Matter 2006 Zinfandel (Howell built to drink with barbecue. It’s rich, thick and heady, 92 Mountain); $100. Made in a ripe, soft style with over 16% of alcohol. Superripe flavors of cherries, Tortoise Creek 2009 The Chelonian Zinfan- that’s unusual for Howell Mountain, this Zin could blackberries and raspberries, sprinkled with pepper, 84 del (Lodi); $11. Tortoise Creek makes bargain almost be Grenache, or even a big Pinot Noir. The cinnamon and cocoa are almost like Port. A distinctive wines from the Languedoc region of France as well as cherry pie filling, raspberry cream and Dr. Pepper fla- Zin for those who like this style. —S.H. from Lodi. “The Chelonian” is a new label a portion of vors are wrapped into soft, gentle tannins. It’s a luxuri- the proceeds of which will go to the Chelonian ous, exotic Zinfandel whose heat from high alcohol adds Zahtila 2007 Oat Hill Estate Zinfandel (Cal- Research Foundation to help benefit the conservation a spicy element. —S.H. 87 istoga); $45. Rich and jammy in blackberry, of turtles and tortoises. The wine itself is a decent rep- black cherry and blueberry fruit, with a smoky overlay resentation of Lodi’s bigger, more raisiny style. —V.B. Elyse 2007 Zinfandel (Howell Mountain); from oak. Some overripe notes show up in the finish. 91 $37. A real bruiser of a Zinfandel, dark in color, Drink this polished, spicy Zin now. —S.H. Zahtila 2006 Oat Hill Estate Zinfandel (Cal- dry and tannic, brimming with massive flavors of wild 84 istoga); $45. Smells a little unripe, with some blackberries, blueberries, dark chocolate and pie spices. Terra d’Oro 2007 Zinfandel (Amador green notes and a sweet funkiness. Tastes curiously County); $18. The tannins are hard, in the way of this mountain. 86 A dry, tannic Zinfandel from sweet and soft, like melted raspberry and cherry candy. Drink Now–2013 before it loses fresh fruit. —S.H. Amador, fairly large production at 14,000 cases a year, Not likely to age. —S.H. with enough blueberry, sweet black olive and spice on Elyse 2007 Morisoli Vineyard Zinfandel the finish to make the whole package a nicely made Gravity Hills 2009 The Sherpa Zinfandel (Napa Valley); $37. Immature now, with bottling from a Sierra Foothills Zin specialist. —V.B. 90 (Central Coast); $12. This is a simple wine, sweet, jammy berry fruit, currants and hard tannins, 83 sharp in acidity and dry, with spicy Zin flavors of and the oak overlay hasn’t been integrated yet. But Carol Shelton 2008 Monga Zin, Lopez there’s a lot going on in this spicy, bold Zin. Give it 3–4 85 Vineyard Zinfandel (Cucamonga Valley); berries. Okay with pizza, burgers, barbecue. —S.H. years. —S.H. $21. Not a ton of fruit on the nose but a respectable single-vineyard from Zin master Carol Shelton made Mazzocco 2008 Pony Zinfandel (Dry Creek Joel Gott 2008 Dillian Ranch Zinfandel from organically grown, dry-farmed 92-year-old vines, 83 Valley); $32. Soft, melted and sweet, like a 90 (Amador County); $28. For full review see coaxed into a spicy, brambly wine from a very unusual cherry, blueberry and chocolate dessert in liquid form. page 6. appellation. —V.B. Overripe, too. The official alcohol is 15.5%. —S.H.

Pezzi King 2008 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Val- Novy 2009 Zinfandel (Russian River Val- Midnight Cellars 2006 Crescent Zinfandel 90 ley); $18. Classic Dry Creek Zin, dry, spicy and 85 ley); $19. A good, everyday Zinfandel, spicy 83 (Paso Robles); $19. With high alcohol making briary. Has those rustic tannins that just love cheese, and fruity. It has lots of raspberry and cherry jam, for a hot mouthfeel, this Zinfandel also is deficient in tomato sauce, spice-rubbed barbecue or a great beef chocolate and pepper flavors that finish a little sweet. acidity, and tastes sweet in berry jam flavors. It’s an old- taco. Perfect ripeness, too, brimming with raspberries, —S.H. fashioned wine that hasn’t kept pace with the modern blackberries and blueberries. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Paso Robles style. —S.H. Haraszthy 2008 Zinfandel (Amador Carol Shelton 2007 Wild Thing, Cox Vine- 84 County); $15. Val Haraszthy, the great-great- Mazzocco 2008 West Dry Creek Zinfandel yard Zinfandel (Mendocino County); $24. 89 grandson of California viticultural pioneer Agoston 82 (Dry Creek Valley); $32. Shows overripe fla- A very fruity, juicy Zin from Shelton, this time from Haraszthy, has made California Zins his focus, with vors in the raisins that gives a Port-like taste, and with one of her consistent sources of organically grown offerings from Sonoma, Howell Mountain and here, alcohol well over 16%, it’s hot. An inelegant, heavy Zin. grapes in Mendocino, just north of Ukiah. The “wild” Amador County. The result here is a tad rough, an —S.H. name comes from the wild yeast fermentation the wine unbelievably big (15.6% alcohol) wine that doesn’t goes through, helping to coax raspberry, cassis, black deliver much yet in terms of aroma or taste. Maybe in Mazzocco 2008 Stone Zinfandel (Alexan- pepper and spice out of the wine. —V.B. time? —V.B. 82 der Valley); $29. Tastes overly soft, too sweet Sobon Estate 2008 Fiddletown Zinfandel Headbanger 2009 Zinfandel (Sonoma and hot, with berry, chocolate-covered raisin and Port 89 (Fiddletown); $20. For full review see page 7. 84 County); $20. Here’s a simple, easy Zin for flavors. Not for everyone. —S.H. downing with barbecue, mac and cheese, that sort of Ottimino Vineyards 2007 Zinfinity Zinfan- thing. It’s light in body and silky, with candied rasp- Redtree 2009 Zinfandel (California); $8. 88 del (Sonoma County); $16. Great price from berry and spice flavors. —S.H. 82 Soft, simple and a little vegetal, with a green, a winery that’s consistently been producing top Zins. asparagus taste alongside the blackberries. A decent This one’s actually blended with 11% Petite Sirah. The Maddalena 2008 Zinfandel (Paso Robles); party wine where no one really cares, as long as the wine is rich and lusty, with spicy flavors of ripe summer 84 $15. This is a simple, easy- drinking Zinfandel, wine is red. —S.H.

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Somerston 2007 Highflyer Centerline Kenefick Ranch 2007 Caitlin’s Select OTHER REDS 89 (Napa Valley); $28. Lots of ripe cherries, 86 Cabernet Franc (Calistoga); $52. Almost too blackberries and dried herbs in this young, vigorous ripe and fruity, with jammy, pie-filling blackberry and Kenefick Ranch 2006 Pickett Road Red wine. Shows considerable power and authority, at the cherry flavors. Lots of oak, too, giving the wine a 94 (Napa Valley); $55. For full review see page 3. loss perhaps of some charm and elegance. Drink it over caramelized sweetness. A bit heavy-handed, but tasty. Cellar Selection. the next 6–8 years. —S.H. Drink now. —S.H.

Sean Thackrey NV Pleiades XIX Old Vines Clos Pegase 2007 Dunaweal Vineyard Mojon’s Bench 2007 Syncopation (Alexan- 93 (California); $24. With a translucent ruby color 88 Pegaso (Napa Valley); $28. A flavorful, 86 der Valley); $36. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet and silky texture, this could be a Pinot Noir. But it’s a robust wine, made from Petite Sirah, Zinfandel and Franc and Syrah, this wine is very rich and extracted in blend of Sangiovese, Voignier, Mourvèdre and several Syrah grown in the winery’s estate vineyard in Calis- pie-filling fruit flavors. The grapes certainly had no other varieties, and shows its own unique profile. Dry toga. With wildly exuberant wild blackberry, red cur- trouble getting ripe. It’s a little heavy and soft in the and crisp, the flavors are fruity, floral, herbal and spicy. rant, tobacco, exotic Indian spice and sandalwood mouth, and not likely to age, so drink now. —S.H. Raspberries, cherries, thyme, white pepper, bacon, flavors, its tannins are brisk and firm. Calls for umami oregano and smoky sandalwood only begin to describe rich fare, such as beef stews, hard cheeses and upscale Stave 28 2008 Echo (California); $19. A the complexities. They change by the second in the Mexican fare. Drink this interesting, fun wine now. — 86 simple but likeable red blend, dry and supple in glass, but always finish dry. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. S.H. tannins, with earthy, sweet flavors of berries, cherries, tobacco and cedar. —S.H. Reverie 2008 Estate Petit Verdot (Dia- Reverie 2008 Estate Cabernet Franc (Dia- 92 mond Mountain); $75. Petite Verdot is a dif- 88 mond Mountain); $60. Not clear that Cab A.S. Kiken 2008 Red Wine (Diamond Mountain); $40. ficult wine to make interesting in its own right, but Franc deserves a bottling on its own, as it’s better as a 85 Some awkward flavors and Reverie has pulled it off. It’s very much like a Diamond blending wine. That said, this is a pretty, polished red textures in this dry, tannic wine. Polished blackberries Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, dry, tannic and filled wine, full-bodied and dry in cherry, spice and oak fla- and cherries co-exist beside less ripe mint, and the tan- with blackberry, cherry and cassis flavors. Not exactly vors. Drink now and over the next five years. —S.H. nins and acids are sharp and green. Seems like prob- clear why you’d want a Petite Verdot instead of a lems at the sorting table. —S.H. Cabernet, except for the interest value, but it’s certainly Arrowood 2007 Malbec (Sonoma Valley); Donelan 2008 Cuvée Moriah Grenache- an achievement. —S.H. $42. A bit rustic and rowdy, in the way of Mal- 87 Syrah (Sonoma County); $40. Not in the bec, with big, edgy tannins and a scour of acidity. What- 85 same league as Donelan’s Syrahs. The Grenache seems Viader 2008 Estate Limited Edition (Napa ever elegance it lacks, it makes up for in the sheer to drag it down. It’s paler in color, there’s a vegetal 92 Valley); $50. This interesting wine is an power of its blackberry and coffee fruit flavors. Will smell, and it’s simple in berry, cola and spice flavors. unusual blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bor- probably age forever, gradually mellowing and sweeten- Drink now. —S.H. deaux varieties with nearly half Syrah. It does what ing, without ever showing much complexity. —S.H. Napa does so well, offering a plethora of ripe, delicious San Antonio 2007 Heritage (Paso Robles); cherry, black raspberry, dark chocolate, sweetly smoked Cinnabar 2008 Sorcerer’s Stone (Califor- $30. This Rhône-style blend smells and tastes a oak and peppery spice flavors that are deep and long on nia); $45. This unusual blend of Petite Sirah 85 87 little hot. The official alcohol is 14.5%, yet there’s a the finish. A lovely, accessible wine to drink over the and Teroldego is very rich and ripe, brimming with white pepper, prickly heat to the raspberry jam and next few years. —S.H. blackberry, grilled mushrooms splashed with balsamic, mocha flavors. Drink now. —S.H. cassis, pepper and cedar. It has lovely tannins, soft and Beckmen 2008 Purisima Mountain Vine- refined. The only problem is excessive heat from high Loomis 2008 Ember (Napa Valley); $32. yard Grenache (Santa Ynez Valley); $48. 91 alcohol. —S.H. Dry and simple, with pleasant herb, raspberry The combination of very high alcohol and what tastes 84 tea and spice flavors. A little soft and sweet, but okay like residual sugar gives this Grenache an excessively Elyse 2006 Hudson Vineyard Le Corbeau for everyday fare. —S.H. sweet, glyceriney taste. It’s fabulously rich in raspberry 87 (Los Carneros); $28. A blend of Grenache and cream, blackberry jam, mocha, vanilla and cinnamon Syrah, this is a soft, gentle wine. It’s made for drinking Scott Cellars 2008 Cuvée F Sangiovese- spice flavors. Very flamboyant and delicious, but really now, and has delicious, forward flavors of cherry jam, 84 Syrah (Santa Barbara County); $34. A sim- more of a dessert wine than a dry table wine. —S.H. red currants, milk chocolate and pie spices. —S.H. ple wine, extracted and jammy in raspberries, cherries and blackberries. Very high alcohol and black pepper Shypoke 2008 Charbono (Calistoga); $40. Koehler 2008 Les 3 Cépages (Santa Ynez flavors combine to create a hot mouthfeel. The wine is 91 Charbono is an old-fashioned grape that almost 87 Valley); $40. A rich, elegant and accessible also sweet in glycerine. —S.H. nobody makes anymore, but Shypoke is giving it some blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre with well- love, and good for them. This is a really nice wine. It’s ripened cherry, berry, currant, spice and cedar flavors. Pianetta 2008 Barbera (Paso Robles); $27. as full-bodied, dry and tannic as a Merlot, but with dif- Showing its best now, so drink up. —S.H. 82 Heavy, sweet and dull. Shows soft, sugary fla- ferent flavors, of black cherries, grilled meats and vors of cherries and mocha, with thick tannins. Not mushu plum sauce, with dusty exotic spices and a touch Arrowood 2007 Coté de Lune Rouge Las- likely to develop in the bottle. —S.H. of funky smoke. It’s soft enough to drink now. —S.H. 86 seter Vineyards (Sonoma Valley); $30. A simple but likeable wine, dry, earthy and hot in alcohol, Pianetta 2008 Bilancio Estate Bottled Stonehedge 2007 Terroir Select Grenache with raspberry jam, Provençal herb, tobacco, toast and 82 Syrah-Cabernet (Monterey); $36. Soft and 90 (Mendocino County); $26. A delicious spicy flavors. Drink now with Mediterranean-style fare. sugary sweet, this blend has dessert wine flavors of Grenache sourced from Mendocino’s Eaglepoint Vine- —S.H. raspberries and milk chocolate. There’s a tug of vegetal yards, a high-elevation, cool-climate site with a peppery unripeness. —S.H. opening note that extends itself through dense chewy Bacio Divino 2008 Red Wine (Napa Valley); tannins and the bright fruitiness and inviting aromatics 86 $80. Heavy and sweet, almost sugary in black- Reverie 2008 Estate Barbera (Diamond we all love about Grenache. A very nice bottle of wine berry, currant and chocolate flavors, with a smoky, hot 82 Mountain); $50. There’s a reason few wineries with great backbone and depth that should age another finish. A good wine that will appeal to those who like its nowadays produce Barbera. It’s a boring wine, and just 5–10 years. —V.B. candied taste. —S.H. because it comes from as fine a producer as Reverie

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 can’t change that fact. The wine is dry, tannic and dull, bombs, but restrained and controlled, showing a min- Gary Farrell 2008 Russian River Selection with unevenly ripened flavors. —S.H. eral profile framing Meyer lemon, lime and pineapple 87 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley); $32. fruit. An elegant, sophisticated Chardonnay for drinking Shows the Farrell mark of elegance, with balanced now, but not too cold. Tasted twice. —S.H. ripeness and acidity. Bigtime flavors of pineapples and CALIFORNIA WHITES tangerines mingle with caramelized oak, with addi- Cinnabar 2007 Chardonnay (Santa Cruz tional buttered toast and vanilla richness. A crowd- CHARDONNAY 90 Mountains); $29. For full review see page 6. pleasing Chardonnay that shouldn’t be consumed too cold. —S.H. Failla 2009 Estate Vineyard Chardonnay Falcone 2009 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara 92 (Sonoma Coast); $44. A very good Chardon- 90 County); $25. Falcone wisely reins in the fruity Koehler 2009 Reserve Chardonnay (Santa nay whose dryness, acidity, minerality and cleanliness richness and oak on this wine, allowing acidity and cit- 87 Ynez Valley); $30. Strong in fruit and power- are characteristic of the vineyard. It’s a Chablis-style rus flavors to star. That is a nod to Santa Barbara’s cool- ful in oak, made in the popular California style. wine, lean and lemony, with an oaky coat. Doesn’t seem climate terroir, not winemaker interference. The wine Impresses with pineapple jam, buttered popcorn and quite up there with previous vintages, but a very fine, is dry, crisp and minerally, with subtle lime, Meyer vanilla flavors, in a creamy texture. Needs greater com- complex wine made for early drinking. —S.H. lemon and Asian pear flavors, with a hint of oak. A plexity and nuance. —S.H. lovely restaurant wine at a fair price. Editors’ Choice. Guarachi Family 2009 Chardonnay —S.H. Novy 2009 Keefer Ranch Chardonnay 92 (Sonoma Coast); $30. A big improvement 87 (Green Valley); $22. Made in the popular over the winery’s last release, this ’09 Chardonnay is Laird 2008 Red Hen Ranch Chardonnay style, with loads of sweet, smoky oak that dominate rich and oaky and crisp in acidity. It’s just delicious, 90 (Oak Knoll); $35. Soft and rich, this Chardon- everything. Shows buttered toast and vanilla flavors with ripe pineapple jam, buttered toast, créme brûlée nay shows intricately layered flavors of buttered toast, plastered over the perfectly pleasant pineapples, and vanilla flavors. Made in a big, powerful style, but grilled peaches, orange jam, honeysuckle flowers and lemons and minerals. —S.H. balanced. Drink now. —S.H. cinnamon. An opulent wine to drink now. —S.H. Robert Mondavi 2008 Chardonnay (Napa J Vineyards & Winery 2009 Barrel 16 Cambria 2008 Katherine’s Vineyard 87 Valley); $20. Soft and creamy, with flavors of 92 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley); $40. 89 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley); $22. buttered toast, pineapple marmalade and candy corn. This small-production Chard is a real success for J. It’s Shows lots of flamboyant pineapple, pear and green Made in the ripe, oaky, drink-me-now modern style. comprised of their best fruit from warmer and cooler apple flavors, with a deft touch of smoky oak. But the —S.H. parts of the valley. The flavors are complex, ranging wine is uplifted by a firm, steely minerality, as well as from apricots and tangerines to lemons and golden fine acids. It finishes a little sweet. Drink now. —S.H. Roth 2009 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast); mangoes, while oak adds lovely notes of buttered toast 87 $20. Lots of crunchy acidity in this Chardonnay, and créme brûlée. Drink now. —S.H. Francis Coppola 2009 Diamond Collection and smoky oak too, with buttered toast and pineapple 89 Gold Label Chardonnay (Monterey jam flavors. Tastes rich, clean, fine and opulent, in the Zahtila 2009 Chardonnay (Napa Valley); County); $16. For full review see page 6. Editors’ California style. —S.H. 92 $22. Starts with a burst of fresh, clean lemon Choice. aroma, and turns zesty and bright in the mouth, offer- Venge 2009 Maldonado Vineyard Dijon ing waves of Meyer lemon and golden mango. A supe- Laird 2008 Cold Creek Ranch Chardonnay 87 Clones Chardonnay (Napa Valley); $39. rior Chardonnay at a good price. Editors’ Choice. 89 (Los Carneros); $30. A rich, buttery Chardon- Loads of pineapple jam and roasted peach flavors in this —S.H. nay, brimming with well-oaked pineapple, honey, créme rich, oaky Chardonnay. Nothing shy about its fruity brûlée and spice flavors, brightened with acidity. A real power, with rich vanilla and caramel oak barrel influ- Matanzas Creek 2008 Chardonnay crowd pleaser. —S.H. ences. Could use greater complexity and nuance. —S.H. 91 (Sonoma County); $29. For full review see page 5. Staglin 2008 Chardonnay (Rutherford); Wrath 2008 San Saba Vineyard Chardon- 88 $75. Exotic, with tropical fruit, orange, peach, 87 nay (Monterey); $49. Made in the modern Robert Mondavi 2008 Reserve Chardon- white flower, roasted marshmallow and spice flavors. way of very ripe fruit and lots of oak, this Chardonnay 91 nay (Napa Valley); $40. Lots of oaky richness Doesn’t really taste like Chardonnay, more like Rous- certainly delivers plenty of pineapple jam, tangerine, in this detailed, highly enjoyable Chardonnay. It’s tart sanne. The structure is a bit soft, but it’s an interesting Meyer lemon tart, vanilla and buttered toast flavors. It’s and savory in acid-tinged lemondrop candy, tangerine wine. —S.H. fortunately balanced with crisp acidity. Designed for and Asian pear flavors, elaborated with sweet buttered the Chard crowd that likes this popular style. —S.H. toast. Elegant and upscale, a wine to drink now. —S.H. Tayson Pierce Estate Wines 2008 Alder 88 Springs Vineyard Chardonnay (Mendo- Buena Vista 2008 Chardonnay (Carneros); Rusack 2009 Reserve Chardonnay (Santa cino); $49. A pleasantly rich Chardonnay, brimming 86 $18. Will satisfy Chard fans who like ripe fruit 91 Maria Valley); $32. Made the same way as the with white peach, pineapple, lemon tart and buttered and plenty of oak. Shows pineapple marmalade, orange winery’s previous reserves, with ripe, lush fruit that was toast flavors. Gets better as it breathes in the glass. fruit cake, vanilla, buttered popcorn and smoky oak fla- barrel fermented in half-new oak and aged sur lies. It’s Drink now. —S.H. vors, finished with brisk acidity. —S.H. a very rich wine, elaborate in pineapple jam, lemon tart, crême brulée and buttered toast flavors. Opulently Black Stallion 2009 Chardonnay (Napa Val- Byron 2009 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara powerful, but could use greater elegance and finesse. 87 ley); $18. This is a dry, earthy Chardonnay, 86 County); $15. Made in the modern style, with —S.H. with an herbal taste behind the orange, kiwi and cream plenty of sweet oak and modest lime, green apple, per- flavors. Crisp acidity makes it clean and zesty. —S.H. simmon and buttered toast flavors, brightened with acid- Sebastiani 2009 Chardonnay (Sonoma ity. Shows good varietal character for the price. —S.H. 91 County); $13. For full review see page 8. Best Clos du Val 2008 Reserve Chardonnay Buy. 87 (Carneros); $45. Hard to say just why this De Sante 2008 Old Vine Chardonnay Chard isn’t better. It’s nicely dry, with decent acidity, 86 (Napa Valley); $35. This is a richly sweet Zotovich Cellars 2008 Estate Chardonnay good oak and a mineral background to the citrus and Chardonnay, made in the popular style, for drinking 91 (Sta. Rita Hills); $40. Lots of acidity in this peach flavors. There’s just a heaviness that keeps the now. The orange, pineapple and apricot flavors are dry, Chablis-style wine. It’s not one of your opulent from getting airborne. —S.H. savory, and the oak gives caramel notes. —S.H.

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Mi Sueño 2008 Chardonnay (Los flipflop 2009 Chardonnay (California); $7. Luna 2008 Pinot Grigio (Napa Valley); $18. 86 Carneros); $38. Flamboyantly rich and manip- 84 For full review see page 10. Best Buy. 85 Soft, dry and simple, with modest peach, ulated Chardonnay, with buttered popcorn, tropical pineapple, lemon and vanilla flavors. Drink now. —S.H. fruit and caramaelized toast flavors. Feels a little heavy- Hawkstone 2009 Barney’s Heritage Cuvee handed, but lots of Chard lovers will like it. —S.H. 84 Chardonnay (Napa Valley); $29. A decent Chardonnay, but it’s pretty sweet and simple, with the RIESLING V. Sattui 2008 Chardonnay (Napa Valley); taste of sugared pineapple and orange tea. Oak and 86 $22. Simple in buttered popcorn and toast fla- alcohol of course make it more wine-like. —S.H. D.H. Gustafson 2010 Heritage Tree Vine- vors, this Chard has underlying flavors of pineapples. 89 yard Riesling (Dry Creek Valley); $20. An It’s a dry wine, crisp in acidity. Made in the popular Picket Fence 2009 Chardonnay (Russian interesting step toward persuading Americans to like style for drinking now. —S.H. 84 River Valley); $15. Sweet and simple, with Riesling. That’s because it takes the variety’s citrus, buttered popcorn, orange and pineapple juice and flower and petrol notes and finishes them slightly Fleming Jenkins 2009 Jenkins Vineyard caramel flavors. —S.H. sweet, like an orange and apricot fruit drink. Connois- 85 Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains); $40. seurs might wish it were drier, but it’s a really good Simple and concocted, with layers of sweet, Rock Wall 2009 Chardonnay (Santa Lucia example of the off-dry style. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. caramelized oak, pineapple jam and buttered popcorn. Highlands); $25. Sugary sweet and simple, 84 Carmel Road 2009 Riesling (Monterey Good acidity makes it bracing. Lots of people will like with dessert pastry flavors of pineapples, lemons and County); $14. Made in an off-dry, almost sweet it, but it needs to be drier and more interesting at this baked pie crust. —S.H. 87 price. —S.H. style, this polished Riesling is marked first and fore- most by ripe fruit. Green apples, tangerines, Key lime Rock Wall 2009 Reserve Chardonnay pie and golden mangoes flood the mouth, made bright Hanna 2009 Chardonnay (Russian River 84 (Russian River Valley); $30. A sugary 85 Valley); $26. Made in the popular style, this and clean with citrusy acidity. The alcohol is a refresh- Chardonnay whose main attraction is its honey flavor. ingly low 13%. —S.H. Chardonnay offers ripe pineapple, orange jam, but- That gives a dessert wine sweetness to the pineapple tered popcorn and spice flavors. It’s soft and a little and lemon fruit. Ready now. —S.H. Terra Valentine 2009 Riesling (Spring sweet. —S.H. 84 Mountain); $34. Starts with strong, assaultive Taj 2009 Cold Creek Ranch Chardonnay Novy 2009 Rosella’s Vineyard Chardonnay wildflower, dried apricot, butterscotch and sautéed 84 (Los Carneros); $24. Strong and awkward in banana aromas, then turns dry and acidic in the mouth. (Santa Lucia Highlands); $28. Too oaky, with 85 winemaker interventions, this Chardonnay is domi- A difficult wine to like. —S.H. toothpicky vanilla and caramel flavors swamping the nated by buttered toast and popcorn flavors. Pineapple underlying fruit. Too bad, because the basic wine is nice jam shows up, accented with crisp acidity. —S.H. and crisp in pineapples. —S.H. SAUVIGNON BLANC Red Pony Ranch 2009 Chardonnay (Santa Redtree 2009 Chardonnay (California); $8. Barbara County); $20. With loads of oak, Navarro 2009 Cuvee 128 Sauvignon Blanc For full review see page 9. Best Buy. 82 85 pineapple and orange honey flavors, this sweet 93 (Mendocino); $18. Mendocino’s Navarro Vineyards hits it out of the ballpark with this truly stel- Rusack 2009 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara Chardonnay will appeal to those who like this heavy, over-the-top style. —S.H. lar Sauvignon Blanc, its 20th year making SB. Partially County); $23. Sweet in pineapple jam and 85 barrel-fermented, this is an inviting wine of subtle jas- pear flavors and very oaky in caramel and vanilla toast, mine aromas and touching minerality. An incredibly this Chard is a little heavy handed. It would score PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO well-balanced version of the varietal full of lemon higher if it finished drier and crisper. —S.H. thyme and passion fruit. The acidity would cut nicely Carmel Road 2009 Pinot Gris (Monterey through a potatoes gratin. —V.B. Bargetto 2008 Regan Vineyards Reserve 87 County); $18. A lovely wine for those who like 84 Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains); $30. Robert Mondavi 2008 I Block Fumé Blanc a touch of sweetness. It’s rich and vibrant in honey, There’s a good Chardonnay in here, crisply acidic and 93 (Oakville); $75. A brightly acidic, savory Sauvi- dry, with rich pineapple, pear and green apple flavors. green apple, golden apricot, peach and vanilla cream flavors, accented with fine acidity. The blend contains gnon Blanc, rich and zesty in lemongrass, lime, goose- But oak unfortunately swamps everything in a tsunami berry and white peach flavors, with a touch of white Chardonnay, Riesling,Gewürztraminer Marsanne, of buttered toast and caramel. —S.H. pepper. The firm spine of minerals comes from the Roussanne, Chenin Blanc and Viognier. —S.H. vineyard. Very rich and appealingly dry, this wonderful Bargetto 2008 Chardonnay (Central wine will gather momentum in the bottle over the next Laird 2009 Cold Creek Pinot Grigio (Los 84 Coast); $15. Heavy handed in ripe fruit and decade. —S.H. oak, with a soft, sweet mouthfeel. Will appeal to fans of 87 Carneros); $18. This Pinot Grigio is crisply the tropical fruit and buttered toast style of Chardon- acidic and dry, with exotic flavors of yellow apricots, Clos Pegase 2009 Mitsuko’s Vineyard nay. —S.H. tangerines and spicy golden mangoes. It shows toasty, 91 Sauvignon Blanc (Carneros); $20. The best caramelized notes. Refreshing now as a cocktail sipper. Clos Pegase Sauvignon Blanc in years. Made with a lit- Cinnabar 2009 Chardonnay (Monterey); —S.H. tle oak, just enough for creaminess, it’s marked by 84 $20. With Chardonnays this thin and one- vibrant acidity and complex, lovely flavors of lemon- dimensional, price is all important. This bottle is okay in Red Pony Ranch 2009 Pinot Gris (Santa grass, Meyer lemon candy, vanilla, white pepper and pineapple and buttered toast flavors, but it’s pretty sim- 87 Barbara County); $12. Good price for a white the distinct minerality that Carneros white wines often ple. —S.H. wine this classy. At first it tastes a little sweet, with display. Great price for a wine this sophisticated. Edi- jammy apricot and pineapple fruit flavors, but the acid- tors’ Choice. —S.H. Clos du Val 2009 Chardonnay (Carneros); ity is so good, it leaves behind a clean, dry aftertaste. 84 $25. Heavy and sweet, with apricot jam, tan- Best Buy. —S.H. Laird 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley); gerine, buttercream and caramel flavors. A sound 90 $16. Dry and tart in acids, with lemon Lifesaver everyday Chardonnay for drinking now. Production was flipflop 2010 Pinot Grigio (California); $7. candy, lemongrass, hay, white pepper and vanilla aro- 10,000 cases. —S.H. 85 For full review see page 10. Best Buy. mas and flavors. A clean, brisk Sauvignon Blanc to drink

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 as an appetizer. Good with Asian fare. Editors’ Choice. Priest Ranch 2009 Somerston Sauvignon Donelan 2009 Venus Roussanne-Viognier —S.H. 83 Blanc (Napa Valley); $24. A simple, sound, 87 (Sonoma County); $45. Lots of crisp, jammy quaffing Sauvignon Blanc, with citrus and lemongrass Meyer lemon, lime, vanilla, honey and creamy flavors in Greenwood Ridge 2009 Sauvignon Blanc flavors. Finishes a little sweet. —S.H. this Rhône-style blend. It’s a little too sweet and for- 88 (Anderson Valley); $18. A pretty, polished ward, especially for the price. —S.H. and food-friendly Sauvignon Blanc, dry and crisp in Somerston 2009 Priest Ranch Sauvignon acidity. Shows rich, savory flavors of citrus fruits, vanilla 83 Blanc (Napa Valley); $24. Dull and thin, with Scott Cellars 2009 Cuvée Blanc Pinot bean, toast and cinnamon spice. Good price for a fancy watered-down peach and citrus flavors. No much going 86 Blanc-Chardonnay (Santa Barbara wine like this. —S.H. on in this Sauvignon Blanc. —S.H. County); $21. This blend of Pinot Blanc and Chardon- nay brims with spicy tangerine, orange cream and Indulge 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (North Tuck Beckstoffer 2007 Vinifera Sauvignon vanilla flavors. It’s very rich, yet dry, while brisk acidity 87 Coast); $20. For full review see page 7. Edi- 82 Blanc (Napa Valley); $35. Smells a little vege- makes the finish clean. Not terribly complex, but an tors’ Choice. tal, and tastes simple and sweet, like sugared water, agreeable wine. —S.H. with a squirt of citrus juice. —S.H. Sleeper Cellars 2009 Sleeper Sauvignon Bargetto 2008 Gewürztraminer (Monterey 87 Blanc (Napa Valley); $17. Here’s a pleasant, 85 County); $15. A clean everyday Gewürz- easy-to-drink Sauvignon Blanc. It shows lemon, lime VIOGNIER traminer, showing the variety’s spicy flavors, with hints and tart green apple flavors, finished with plenty of of pineapples and candied ginger. Tastes off-dry and crisp in acidity. —S.H. zesty acidity. —S.H. Zotovich Cellars 2010 Estate Viognier (Sta. 92 Rita Hills); $28. A great Viognier, rich and V. Sattui 2009 Vittorio’s Vineyard Sauvi- flipflop 2010 Moscato (California); $7. For exotic, showing the powerful fruit you want from this gnon Blanc (Napa Valley); $24. full review see page 10. Best Buy 87 A fine Sauvi- variety, in a balanced, elegant way. With a sweet, butter- 85 gnon Blanc, ripe, dry and pure in pineapple, lime green cream mouthfeel, it’s brisk in acidity, with powerful fla- Somerston 2009 Highflyer Grenache Blanc apple and oak flavors. Feels a little sweet and simple in vors of tangerines, pineapples, golden mango and exotic the finish, but a fancy, crisp wine. —S.H. 85 (Napa Valley); $18. A good, everyday sipper, spices, finished with smoky, sweet oak. —S.H. soft and gentle, with appealing flavors of pineapples, Wrath 2008 Noble Wrath Late Harvest oranges, pears, cream and buttered toast. Could show The White Knight 2008 Viognier (Clarks- Sauvignon Blanc (Monterey); $33. A fan- greater structure and acidity. —S.H. 87 burg); $13. For full review see page 8. Best tastically sweet wine, with very high residual sugar. 88 Buy. Dazzles with honey, tangerine, apricot and vanilla fla- SPARKLING WINES vors, but could use extra concentration to earn a higher Sobon Estate 2009 Viognier (Amador score. —S.H. 86 County); $15. For full review see page 8. Domaine Carneros 2005 Le Rêve Geyser Peak 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Cali- 95 (Carneros); $90. For full review see page 3. Robert Hall 2009 Viognier (Paso Robles); fornia); $12. Dry and crisp in acidity, this 86 $20. This sweet Viognier tastes like a pineapple, Domaine Carneros 2007 Brut (Carneros); Sauvignon Blanc shows pineapple and lime flavors, with 84 orange, apricot and peach fruit juice blend. The acidity $26. For full review see page 6. Editors’ a strong hit of gooseberry. May be too green for some, 90 is balancing, but feels added. —S.H. Choice. but it gets those tastebuds whistling. —S.H. Domaine Carneros NV Cuvee de la Pom- Lava Cap 2009 Estate Sauvignon Blanc (El OTHER WHITES padour (Carneros); $36. A vibrant, useful Dorado); $14. A dark-golden SB from the 88 86 rosé sparkling wine, full-bodied and rich. Crisp acidity Sierra Foothills with a nose full of honeysuckle and Dolce 2006 Late Harvest Sémillon-Sauvi- brightens flamboyant flavors of raspberries, cherries, mango, this wine’s got significant depth and concen- gnon Blanc (Napa Valley); $85. yeast and vanilla. Drink this dry bubbly now. —S.H. tration but also a healthy dose of alcohol (14.7%) and 98 For full is a tad sweet on the finish. A small amount of Sémil- review see page 2. lon is blended in for body and texture. Pair with Macauley 2007 Special Selected Late Har- ROSÉ WINES seafood. —V.B. 96 vest Botrytis Sémillon (Alexander Valley); Midsummer Cellars 2010 Button and Terra Valentine 2009 Sauvignon Blanc $45. For full review see page 3. Turkovich Vineyard Rosé (Yolo County); (Napa Valley); $28. Creamy, oaky and buttery, 86 86 $18. A gorgeously salmon-colored rosé made predom- with a scour of acidity that feels out of place. The Clos du Val 2009 Ariadne Sémillon-Sauvi- inantly from Grenache (62%) co-fermented dry with underlying flavors are of apricots and oranges. Pretty 91 gnon Blanc (Napa Valley); $25. For full review see page 5. Editors’ Choice. Viognier (58%) out of Yolo County. The wine has a del- good, in a country style. —S.H. icately pretty nose of peach and a light-medium body despite its 14.8% alcohol, though the finish falls off fast. Chatom Vineyards 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Imagery 2009 White Burgundy (North —V.B. 84 (Calaveras County); $16. A light golden SB 90 Coast); $29. A delightfully intriguing “White Burgundy” blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot from Calaveras County with tons of tropical aromas, Loomis 2009 Air Rosé (Napa Valley); $18. Meunier, the last an unexpected surprise, the fruit predominantly pineapple, that follow into the taste, Bone dry and very acidic, almost sour, with sourced from both the Sangiacomo and Yountmill vine- 84 which veers disproportionately sweet, with not enough watery flavors of orange and lemon cough drop candy. acidity to balance it out. —V.B. yards. The wine is light and yet lush, with an inviting Gains a few points for elegance and cleanliness. —S.H. nose of sweet apricot and apple pie, and a roundness to Little Stone Vineyard 2009 Sauvignon the mouthfeel. This would pair nicely with a buttery hal- Headbanger 2010 Rock N Rosé Zinfandel 83 Blanc (Sonoma County); $11. Watery and a ibut but also stand well on its own as an apéritif. —V.B. 81 (Sonoma Valley); $20. Sugary sweet and cloy- little fizzy, with sugary flavors of oranges, lemons, limes ing in raspberry jelly flavor. More of a simple dessert and honey. Will appeal to those who like a slightly sweet Incognito 2009 White Wine Blend (Lodi); wine than a rosé. —S.H. wine. —S.H. 89 $18. For full review see page 6.

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feel. This is the one to drink now, while you cellar the $52. A strong core of pretty cranberry/cherry fruit OREGON REDS Cuvée Giselle. —P.G. anchors this solidly made Pinot Noir. Balanced on a cushion of fine-grained tannins, the wine persists in the PINOT NOIR Archery Summit 2008 Red Hills Estate mouth with a clean, bracing finish. —P.G. 90 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $85. This is a full- Domaine Serene 2007 Evenstad Reserve on strawberry extravaganza, loaded with fresh fruit fla- Kings Ridge 2009 Pinot Noir (Oregon); 95 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); $58. For full vors, flecks of peppery spice and tannins just hinting at 88 $17. A widely available, screwcapped wine, review see page 3. Cellar Selection. bitterness. Aromas rush from the glass, a mélange of totally fruit-driven, with forward and immediately pepper and sassafras, cherry cola and moist earth. The accessible bright cherry candy flavors. Though it settles Archery Summit 2008 Archery Summit mouthfeel is substantial, almost gritty—it has a rough into a one-dimensional structure, the fruit carries it 93 Estate Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $150. and tumble feeling to the finish. —P.G. along nicely, and it has much the same appeal as a good Archery Summit’s top cuvée is young and brash, a jan- Beaujolais-Villages. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. gle of brambly berries, threads of incense and choco- Archery Summit 2008 Premier Cuvée Pinot late, assertive acids and not quite integrated tannins. It 90 Noir (Willamette Valley); $48. A fine, ele- Ponzi 2009 Tavola Pinot Noir (Willamette will require some patience, either in the cellar, or in gant Pinot Noir, still in its infancy, with bright cran- 88 Valley); $25. Luisa Ponzi does such an excel- the decanter (hours!) but has an underlying plush tex- berry and raspberry fruit taking center stage. A lent job with her top of the line Pinots that it is no sur- ture and an exotic mix of spices that elevate the pretty shimmering, vivid, youthful vitality elevates the fruit prise that this entry-level bottle really shines. fruit to the next level. Cellar Selection. —P.G. flavors, with juicy acidity and restrained oak influence. Immaculate fruit, polished tannins, a vivacious, fruit- Though this is the least expensive wine in the Archery laden mouthfeel, all combine into a wine that has both Lachini Vineyards 2007 Cuvée Giselle Summit portfolio, it may surprise those who cellar it. suppleness and varietal power. It does not have the 93 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); $65. Ron Some extra years in the bottle could bring out unsus- density of the pricier siblings, but it makes up for it Lachini cleverly assigns his wines to a carefully assem- pected depth and power. —P.G. with food-friendly acidity. —P.G. bled team of winemakers; this one belongs to Laurent Domaine Serene 2008 Yamhill Cuvée Pinot Torii Mor 2008 Deux Verres Reserve Pinot Montalieu. It is the estate reserve, from low-yielding Noir (Willamette Valley); $42. Noir (Willamette Valley); $45. vines. It is a particular success in this much-maligned 90 Drinkable 88 Immediately vintage. Intense and focused, it opens with pungent now, but certainly cellar-worthy, the most widely avail- juicy, with a rough mix of flavors that run from pome- aromas of forest and clove, tastes of concentrated cran- able cuvée from Domaine Serene shows the strength of granate and sour wild berry to sweet tomato and herb. berry and pomegranate fruit, and powers through into a the 2008 vintage. Fully ripe, assertive and full-bodied, it But the nose is more complex and integrated, showing brings scents of berry and herb into play, leading into a some dusty barrel notes, and suggesting that with time full-bodied, hefty, assertive finish. The tannins are sub- thick and tannic wine with coiled power. Decant it, or this will settle into a polished bottle. —P.G. stantial and the winemaking perfect. Cellar Selection. give it a few years in the cellar. —P.G. —P.G. Torii Mor 2008 Eola-Amity Hills Select Pinot Lange 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir Noir (Eola-Amity Hills); $52. Archery Summit 2008 Arcus Estate Pinot 88 An elegant wine, (Willamette Valley); $32. Young and loaded with moderate 13.6% alcohol, brambly berry fruit, and a Noir (Dundee Hills); $100. For full review see 90 92 with primary fruit flavors—fresh-picked cherries right wash of finishing acidity. The restrained (30%) new page 4. Cellar Selection. off the tree, red delicious apples, just-made cranberry French oak can be sensed in the lightly chocolaty finish. sauce—this is lovely now but built for the long term. It’s nice to be able to call an Oregon Pinot charming, as Archery Summit 2008 Looney Vineyard The 13.6% alcohol listed is verified by the juicy acidity this one is, rather than volcanic. —P.G. Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge); $85. The Looney 92 and just a touch of herb in the back of the finish. Cellar Vineyard bottling is the outlier in the Archery Summit Selection. —P.G. White Rose 2008 White Rose Vineyard lineup—a different AVA and a non-estate vineyard. The Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $78. The very lim- Ribbon Ridge AVA is a subset of a subset within the 88 Thistle 2008 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); ited bottling from the estate vineyard blends the fla- Willamette Valley, and it may be the hidden gem for 90 $28. A firm, full, distinctive Pinot Noir, from vors of the regular estate and Appellation Series producing great Pinot Noir. This wine is sensual, spir- an organic vineyard in the Dundee Hills. Light fruit Pinots—but with more grip and presence. Strawberry ited, spicy and smooth. The cherry and raspberry fruit flavors of berry play second fiddle to notes of earth and and cranberry fruit, a mineral underpinning, and dried is highlighted with bright acidity and whiffs of baking clay, and drying tannins. The wine surprises with its herb complete the picture. Good balance. —P.G. spices. The new oak is gently applied and the use of length; it extends into a finish that continues to hold wild yeasts may have added some textural nuances also. your attention and its focus, for a minute or more. — Brandborg 2008 Ferris Wheel Pinot Noir Editors’ Choice. —P.G. P.G. 87 (Umpqua Valley); $NA. This is Pinot on the edge of ripeness, with layers of herb and tomato leaf Lachini Vineyards 2008 ‘S’ Pinot Noir Archery Summit 2008 Renegade Ridge threaded in with tart wild berry fruit. The tannins are a 92 (Chehalem Mountains); $45. Sineann’s Peter 89 Estate Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $85. Front little rough, but overall the balance is right and the wine Rosback is the winemaker for this particular Lachini loaded, this wine hits the palate with cola and herb, does not overreach. —P.G. bottling, and has been through seven vintages. This is black cherry and a suggestion of fresh truffles. The aro- the best yet, perhaps a function of a maturing vineyard mas lead, the flavors follow. Still quite young; it needs a Del Rio Vineyards 2009 Pinot Noir (Rogue and a great year. Lush and textural, it dances among few more years in bottle to smooth out all the way 87 Valley); $28. With alcohol at just 12.7%, this is flavors of pretty cherry/berry fruit, lightly whipped through the finish. —P.G. one of several under-13% Pinots tasted recently that chocolate and accents of sandalwood and spice. It gains seem to be setting a new trend in Oregon. The ele- strength through the finish, lingering gracefully. —P.G. Foris 2008 Maple Ranch Pinot Noir (Rogue gance is welcome, and gives the flighty grape some 89 Valley); $30. One of the most remote and room for nuance and even terroir. Light berry, water- Lachini Vineyards 2008 Lachini Family unusual vineyard sites in Oregon, the Maple Ranch melon, hints of earth and a fine balance make this an 91 Estate Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains); provides ripe grapes at lower alcohol levels. The reward excellent quaffer. —P.G. $45. Smooth as silk, all estate-grown, this classy Pinot can be found in the delicate but real accents—subtle lists five Dijon clones, Pommard, Wadenswil and “Suit- spices and surprising length. —P.G. Foris 2008 Pinot Noir (Oregon); $18. Light case clone La Tache” on its tech sheet. Vibrant and 87 and balanced, this Pinot Noir is from Illinois spicy, with cherries galore (sounds like a James Bond Torii Mor 2008 Chehalem Mountains Valley vineyards in southwest Oregon—quite different heroine) and a round, full, lush and satisfying mouth- 89 Select Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains); from the Willamette Valley sites that are most often

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 associated with Oregon wines. It’s a delicate wine, with and thin acids. That sounds worse than it is; taste this Purple Hands 2009 Red (Oregon); $19. This 13% alcohol, and a mouthfeel much like a simple Bour- alongside a Bourgogne from a big shipper in a cool vin- 84 is essentially a southern Oregon blend of Caber- gogne. A fine choice for everyday drinking with poultry tage and you wouldn’t see much difference. The alcohol net, Merlot and Syrah, with the unusual addition of dishes. —P.G. here is listed at just 12.5%. It’s a serviceable everyday 15% Dundee Hills Pinot Noir. It is difficult not to think wine, but not priced accordingly. —P.G. that the winery just had an extra few barrels of Pinot White Rose 2008 Appellation Series Pinot around and decided to blend it in; the wine is a diffuse 87 Noir (Dundee Hills); $44. Juicy and acidic, 3Fools 2008 Fools Gold Pinot Noir mix of generic red fruits and sharp acids, that thins out the Appellation Series Pinot Noir offers more than just 84 (Willamette Valley); $22. Very light, this is quickly in the finish. —P.G. a hint of tomato leaf and pungent herb. Orange peel, scented with fresh bread dough and shows a cherry citrus and tangy berry fruit flavors highlight a wine of soda pop flavor. Pretty, light and simple on entry, it feels medium concentration and length. —P.G. stripped of depth and disappears quickly in the mouth. OTHER REDS —P.G. Brandborg 2008 Bench Lands Pinot Noir Night & Day 2008 Red (Rogue Valley); $14. 86 (Oregon); $22. Scents of smoke and ash dom- 89 A kitchen sink sort of blend, this nonetheless inate and obscure the fruit when first you open the bot- SYRAH retains its focus and brings bright and spicy red fruits to tle. Swirl it around and the light cherry and cranberry the front and center. It’s a yummy style, fresh and simply fruit emerges, along with a lick of milk chocolate. But Riverhaven 2007 Riverrock Vineyards delicious, in the manner of a good country wine. But it the scent and flavor of smoke lingers, presumably from 90 Syrah (Walla Walla (OR)); $28. Excellent goes farther than you expect, lingering and layering up barrel aging, and ultimately your opinion of the wine varietal character, along with the lightly funky aromas through a medium deep finish. Best Buy. —P.G. may hinge on your personal preferences in that regard. associated with the vineyard’s location in the Rocks (a —P.G. sub-section of the Walla Walla Valley AVA), elevate this Velocity 2007 Red Wine (Rogue Valley); first release from Riverhaven Cellars. Along with black- $24. With each successive vintage, winemaker MacMurray Ranch 2008 Pinot Noir 89 berry fruit come cinnamon, mocha, coffee grounds and Gus Janeway has slowly but surely moved this wine to (Willamette Valley); $NA. 86 Vinified in Cali- clean earth, well integrated into a rich and textural wine 100% Malbec. It’s a bold step, because pure varietal fornia with grapes purchased from Willamette Valley with good length and body. —P.G. wines do not have the advantage of filling in holes with sources, this is a pleasant, quaffable wine, with simple blending. But for those who want to glimpse the future red fruit and grippy acids. The flavors seem to get stuck Amalie Robert 2008 Satisfaction Syrah of Malbec in southern Oregon, this is a touch point. in the back of the throat, a bottleneck of acid and red (Willamette Valley); $35. Impressively dark Delicate, balanced, herbal, mixing a wash of light fruits berry. Don’t look for the breadth or sweetness of Cali- 88 and showing the meaty andpeppery character of the with nuances of herb, this very drinkable wine has fornia Pinot Noir here, but you will find texture and grape, this Willamette Valley Syrah makes a good appealing delicacy and verve. —P.G. nuance. —P.G. argument for the viability of the grape up north. It emphasizes the flavors that are lost in a hotter cli- Amalie Robert 2009 Pinot Meunier Torii Mor 2008 Temperance Hill Vineyard mate—pepper, herb, tart berry, and juicy acidity. With (Willamette Valley); $26. This grape is most Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills); $60. This bot- 88 86 alcohol at 12.3%, this sets a new standard for domestic, commonly associated with Champagne, though David tling is still a bit disjointed, the acids stick out and the Euro-style Syrah. —P.G. Lett established it as a varietal wine at Eyrie decades fruit seems confined to a tight corner. The raw materi- ago. From a young vineyard, this is deceptively light in als are good enough—berries and watermelon, a whiff the glass, yet the wine has grip and the flavors have fol- of tomato, moderate tannins and more than a hint of CABERNET & BLENDS low-through. Spice, pomegranate, wild berry—all in a new oak. Give this one another year or two to smooth surprisingly lengthy wine whose flavors linger gener- out the wrinkles. —P.G. Riverhaven 2007 Riverrock Vineyards ously. —P.G. Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla (OR)); Torii Mor 2008 Hawks View Vineyard 91 Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains); $60. $34. This 100% estate-grown Cabernet carries some Del Rio Vineyards 2008 Estate Reserve 86 Petite Syrah (Rogue Valley); $48. Well made in a lighter style, this offers strawberry and of the identifying aromas of the Rocks, a part of Walla 87 Petite raspberry fruit, tart acids, and a tight, somewhat tannic Walla where vineyards are planted on a dry river bed. Syrah (as it is spelled here) is no longer an approved exit. This winery has dramatically reduced the alcohol Hints of earth, clay and chocolate make a lively intro- label—Petite Sirah is correct—but this wine takes a good levels of their wines over the past few years—by what duction to a wine loaded with cherry and currant fruit run a capturing the power and pleasure of the grape. means we do not know—but the 13.1% listed here feels flavors. The wine spent 20 months in French oak, but Dark and tannic, it brings in plum and a hint of prune, a little thin. —P.G. the barrel scents and flavors are handled lightly; the also chocolate and earth, with good balance. —P.G. fruit is the star of this show. A fine debut. —P.G. White Rose 2008 Estate Pinot Noir Del Rio Vineyards 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- ROSÉ WINES 86 (Willamette Valley); $32. Soft, almost silky, this pale and pretty wine shows light cherry and choco- 87 gnon (Rogue Valley); $28. As is often the late flavors. Hints of ash and cola seep into the finish, case with Rogue Valley wines, the tannins are domi- Lachini Vineyards 2009 Rosé of Pinot Noir along with herb and dried leaf. —P.G. nant and abrasive. But flavors are good, with a mix of 89 (Willamette Valley); $14. A pretty pale graphite, olive, iron filings and coffee grounds—more salmon color introduces a wine that looks and smells Amalie Robert 2008 Vintage Debut Pinot than pure fruit. The tannins, acids and darker flavors like a Sancerre rosé. Delicate and yet fruity, it offers a 85 Noir (Willamette Valley); $30. Light and del- rule, creating a wine with rigid structure and a tight, cavalcade of fresh flavors, strawberries and cherries, icate, this “Vintage Debut” Pinot Noir skates along a firm finish. —P.G. almost frothy and tasting like the creamy center of a pretty thin edge. Light hints of strawberry and cherry bon bon. Best Buy. —P.G. blossom lead into a pale wine with plenty of acidity. But Del Rio Vineyards 2008 Claret (Rogue Val- despite the acclaimed vintage, this is pretty thin stuff. 86 ley); $35. The Claret blend is 44% Merlot, Velocity 2009 Malbec Rosé (Rogue Valley); —P.G. 40% Cabernet and 16% Malbec—tannic and herbal, 88 $16. Still quite fresh and loaded with spicy almost like a Chilean red. A good wine to go with a strawberry and melon fruit, this is finished at just 12.5% Purple Hands 2009 PH Pinot Noir (Dundee grilled steak, which can cut through the tannins with alcohol. Easy to take a sip and imagine you are in a café 85 Hills); $40. Light and murky, with a flavor mix some fat. Flavors are balanced, fruit is light and leafy, on the Côte Azur, scarfing down some fresh calamari. of tomato, vegetable juice, celery, barely ripe berries and there is little or no new oak influence. —P.G. —P.G.

WineMag.com | 51 BUYING I GUIDE

peach fruit, plenty of natural acidity masking the resid- were dried to concentrate sugars, then pressed and fer- OREGON WHITES ual sugar, and alcohol just over 12%. —P.G. mented. The result is a terrific and unusual dessert wine, with candied fruits mixing papaya, guava, banana, PINOT GRIS Meyer lemon and more. The center is simply lush and GEWÜRZTRAMINER fruity; the finish tails off gently with a honeyed kiss. Lachini Vineyards 2009 Pinot Gris (Ore- Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 91 gon); $22. Lovely scents suggest citrus rind, Brandborg 2009 Gewürztraminer lemon cake, honeycomb, candied orange and more. 90 (Umpqua Valley); $16. Do you like lemon Foris 2009 Pinot Blanc (Rogue Valley); $14. Substantial fruit flavors run from lime on through ripe drop cocktails? This is a lemon drop wine —so ripe and 88 A pleasant white wine whose style falls some- pineapple, and the supporting structure offers a firm round and sweetly lemony it could almost pass for where between a crisp Chardonnay and a fruity Pinot foundation of acid and extract, with a pleasingly long Limoncello. Despite the almost 14% alcohol, there is Gris. Pears and apples come to mind, with suggestions of finish. —P.G. some sweetness, as you might find in a late harvest toast and caramel, perhaps from five months on the lees. wine, albeit concealed by the acidity. Rose petals and Approachable and perfect for a spring picnic. —P.G. Foris 2009 Pinot Gris (Rogue Valley); $14. talcum powder flavors coalesce into a firm, full, fruity, 90 For full review see page 8. Best Buy. —P.G. slightly sweet and also quite fragrant finish. Editors’ Wiliam Augustus 2009 Viognier-Marsanne Choice. —P.G. 86 (Rogue Valley); $16. Barrel fermented and Brandborg 2009 Pinot Gris (Umpqua Val- left on the lees for 10 months, this fruity, fleshy, creamy 89 ley); $16. Ripe and fruity, the 2009 echoes the Foris 2008 Gewürztraminer (Rogue Valley); wine tastes of citrus (oranges) and tropical (banana) flavors of the previous vintage, bringing in suggestions 88 $12. Almost searingly tart, with a mix of orange fruits, and still shows the unresolved tannins from the of pear, pineapple, green banana and papaya. It’s all and lemon juice flavors. Some rose water and lychee barrels. It’s slightly bitter as a result, and will profit from wrapped in a bit of alcoholic heat, but not so much as notes come in, but this is the rare Gewürztraminer that additional bottle age or decanting. —P.G. to detract from the rich fruit flavors. A solid base of could be a good fit for fresh oysters. Good length and acid and skin tannins gives the wine the support it persistent, clean fruit flavors. Best Buy. —P.G. needs. —P.G.

Melrose 2009 Pinot Gris (Umpqua Valley); CHARDONNAY 88 $16. Estate-grown and fruit-driven, this lush, pear-flavored Pinot Gris is dotted with pretty cinna- Foris 2009 Chardonnay (Oregon); $12. Bar- mon and allspice highlights. Forward and nicely bal- 89 rel fermented in neutral oak, and not put anced, it has the texture and weight to handle rich through malolactic, this offers in place of more obvious sauces, much like a big Chardonnay, but without all barrel flavors some subtle notes of cinnamon and the new oak. —P.G. brioche, custard and citrus rind. A fine effort. Best Buy. —P.G. Del Rio Vineyards 2009 Pinot Gris (Rogue 87 Valley); $16. Crisp and palate-cleansing, this Thistle 2009 Chardonnay (Dundee Hills); southern Oregon Pinot Gris shows a nice mix of green 88 $18. Organically grown and certified grapes berries, tree fruit and even some unripe banana. Good from the estate vineyard craft this tart and spicy concentration and length, with a finish that invites the Chardonnay. A strong spice note—clove—sings out next sip immediately. —P.G. around bright, crisp, green apple fruit flavors. Tangy RIESLING and tasty juice. —P.G.

Viento 2009 Old Vines Dry Riesling 92 (Columbia Gorge (OR)); $20. From the old- est (28 years) Riesling planting in the Columbia Gorge, Viento 2009 Celilo Vineyard Gewürz- this dense, dry, 12.2% alcohol wine has marvelous grip 94 traminer Ice Wine (Columbia Gorge (OR)); and body. Bright fruit mixes apples, pears, white $45. Wow. This challenges the best of Canada for a peaches and citrus, the flavors beautifully melded. The great Gewürztraminer ice wine. A thrilling mix of acidity brightens but does not turn sour, and the depth flower, fruit, caramel, coffee (!) and honey, it is impec- is remarkable for a dry wine harvested at such low brix. cably balanced and outrageously delicious. Just goes The more it breathes, the better it gets. Editors’ and goes. —P.G. Choice. —P.G. Viento 2009 Underwood Mountain Vine- Viento 2009 Pine Grove Vineyard Vintage 91 yards Riesling-Gewürztraminer Ice Wine 91 Select Riesling (Columbia Gorge (OR)); (Columbia Gorge (OR)); $60. A field blend ice $20. This is declassified ice wine, picked frozen. It does wine—don’t see that very often—it’s full-bodied, almost not have the depth of the other dessert wines from lush, and packed with mixed slightly candied fruits— Viento, but it is a remarkable effort, textural and deli- tropical, stone fruits and citrus. Concentrated and cate, with threads of straw, honey, cracker, candied poised, it balances on fresh acidity. Just a hint of plastic tropical fruits and more, but all in a light and delicate in the back of the finish. —P.G. style. This could easily become a wine that will amaze people in a blind tasting given the price. —P.G. OTHER WHITES Foris 2009 Riesling (Rogue Valley); $14. 87 This is a fruity, spicy style of Riesling. It rests Francis Tannahill 2008 Passito (Oregon); solidly in the midpalate, with apple, pear and white 91 $28. A blend of Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier, this was made in the passito style—grapes

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 BUYING I GUIDE Spirits PISCO

SOUTH AMERICAN SPIRITS Tacama Pisco Puro Quebranta (Peru; hey’re both from South America. They’re tails, such as in the Mojito. 96 Vidalco International, Dunbar, WV); 44% both usually clear spirits. And both cachaça Pisco, meanwhile, hails from Peru or Chile. It’s abv, $45 for 500 ml. An aromatic pisco, with a lus- T and pisco are enjoying increased attention distilled from grapes, and then aged for a brief cious cherry-almond fragrance. At first, the spirit is sweet and lightly fruity, then clove, ginger and black at high-end bars. But the comparisons end there, time in vessels made of copper, glass, stainless steel pepper notes spark up in the middle, and it finishes as both spirits have unique characteristics. or clay. It often has a delicate, perfumy quality; lightly floral and spicy. Expect a touch of alcohol burn, Cachaça is made in Brazil, is distilled from but like wine or grappa, the character changes since this is distilled to 88 proof, but overall a beautiful, sugar cane juice. A rough-and-tumble cousin to vastly depending on the grapes from which it is balanced and complex spirit. rum, cachaça has the same intrinsic sweetness and made. Tacama Pisco Albilla (Peru; Vidalco Inter- often a good whiff of sugar in the scent. Brazil’s Although the delightfully frothy Pisco Sour or a 95 national, Dunbar, WV); 44% abv, $22. national drink, the sweet-and-tart caipirinha, fruity Pisco Punch are the traditional ways to con- Look for floral, vanilla, and ripe apple notes in the fra- topped with soda water, showcases cachaça’s best sume the spirit, some say the best way to enjoy grance. The flavor is reminiscent of banana cream pie, qualities, yielding a refreshing, flavorful drink per- pisco is straight up in a wineglass, which enhances with some coconut and faint floral notes on the finish. fect for a summer afternoon. Cachaça also can be its considerable aromatic qualities. Very smooth and warm. subbed for white Tequila or white rum in cock- —KARA NEWMAN Pisco Capel Reservado (Chile; Shaw-Ross 93 International Importers, Miramar, FL); 40% abv, $16. For full review please see page 8. This is a luscious aged cachaça, sweet and smooth, with CACHAÇA a lingering interplay of smoky and burnt toffee notes on Tacama Pisco Quebranta (Peru; Vidalco the finish. 93 International, Dunbar, WV); 44% abv, $22 Sagatiba Pura (Brazil; Sagatiba USA, Man- for 750 ml. Another aromatic pisco from Vina Tacama, 94 hasset, NY); 40% abv, $25. Though it smells Leblon Cachaça (Brazil; Leblon USA, Man- with a pretty fragrance reminiscent of pears, bananas, like vanilla-mint Lifesavers, the flavor of this cachaça is 90 hasset, NY); 40% abv; $30. Inside the tall, and lily-of-the-valley. This is a full-flavored pisco with bright and lightly sweet, with some spicy notes on the distinctive lime-green bottle, look for a faintly yellow- banana and creamy vanilla notes. Recommended for finish. Soft feel. Good value. tinged liquid with pungent, ripe tropical fruit aromas. straight-up sipping. Though it’s a little intense straight up, with brown sugar Cabana Cachaça (Brazil; ABB Partners, sweetness fading into a long fruity finish, it stands up Vinas de Oro Mosto Verde Quebranta 92 New York, NY); 40% abv, $35. Distinctive well in a long drink with soda, like a mojito. 91 (Peru; ClearGrape LLC, San Francisco, CA); vanilla scent with a light floral note. This cachaça has 40% abv, $46. This brazen hussy comes off as sweet strong, sweet flavor, a thick mouth-coating texture and a Novo Fogo Organic Silver Cachaça (Brazil; and delicate at first, with its fresh apple and sweet, oaky custardy finish. Adding ice and soda lightens this spirit, 90 Bom Dia Imports, Bellevue, WA); 40% aroma. But at heart, this spirit is earthy, fruity and bold, so it almost reads like gin & tonic. Excellent for caipir- abv; $30. The heavily fruity aroma is deceptive. finishing relatively dry, with teasing Sherry-like notes. inhas. Instead, this unaged, certified organic cachaça is light, Try this one in a pisco sour. tingly and spicy, with cinnamon, ginger and clove notes. Sagatiba Velha (Brazil; Sagatiba USA, Try adding this spirit to a fruity cocktail. Gran Sierpe Pisco (Peru; Artisan Brands, 92 Costa Mesa, CA); 40% abv, $30. Two years 91 Miami, FL); 42% abv, $20. “Gran sierpe” of barrel aging create a soft amber color and an oaky, Cachaça 21 (Brazil; Preiss Imports, San means “great snake.” Though some might expect a raw, light caramel scent. This spirit benefits from a little 88 Diego, CA); 40% abv, $18/1 liter. Clear. pungent spirit inside to match the punchy serpent- time in the glass to open up, but results in a rich, Sweet scent, with a slight vegetal twang. Sweet flavor, design bottle, instead the liquid inside is delicate, with brown-sugar flavor with a nutty, oaky finish. zesty, lightly smoky finish, well balanced with just the subtle rosewater and violet notes in the aroma and fla- right amount of alcohol bite. vor. A faint black pepper and anise tingle on the finish Ypioca Cachaça Prata (Brazil; Preiss provides some backbone. Good value. 92 Imports, San Diego, CA); 40% abv, $27/1 Ypioca Cachaça Crystal (Brazil; Preiss liter. This estate-produced cachaça has a candied-fruit 87 Imports, San Diego, CA); 40% abv, $27/1 Pisco Portón Mosto Verde Pisco (Peru; scent and a mellow, earthy flavor with a lingering sweet liter. Judging by the other expressions from this estate- 90 Pisco Portón, Manhasset, NY); 43% abv, vanilla note. Soft, smooth feel. Although it’s aged two produced brand, it improves the longer it’s aged. In this $45. Earthy, resiny scent with a hint of fruit in the years, it’s still crystal clear. case, the spirit is aged for one year, yielding a barely background. At first, the flavor is a little raw, but given perceptible straw color and an earthy, slightly vegetal, some time to aerate, it mellows to an earthy, tropical Novo Fogo Gold Organic Cachaça ((Brazil; slightly sweet scent. The flavor leads with a sweet sugar fruit sweetness. Soft feel. A fine addition to a Pisco 91 Bom Dia Imports, Bellevue, WA); 40% cane note, but it also has a brisk smokiness, like mescal, Punch. abv, $35. Certified organic and matured in repurposed on the finish. Bourbon casks for at least two years, this aged cachaça Tacama Pisco Acholado (Peru; Vidalco has a tawny color and thick butterscotch aroma. Crème Boca Loca Cachaça (Brazil; Boca Loca 90 International, Dunbar, WV); 44% abv, $22. brûlée and coconut flavors are chased by a lingering 86 Cachaça Company, Denver, CO); 40% abv, The sugary scent is reminiscent of grape soda, but the caramel and oak finish. $20. Warm scent of vanilla sugar and light fruit. Of all flavor is bold and grappa-like, with sweet notes up front the cachaças tasted, this one has the sweetest, most pro- and a pleasingly astringent finish. Ypioca Cachaça Ouro (Brazil; Preiss nounced vanilla flavor, which lingers on and on. Save 91 Imports, San Diego, CA); 40% abv, $29/1 this one for cocktails with a sweeter profile, such as a Don Cesar Pisco Puro (Peru; Preiss liter. Golden color from two years of barrel aging. The creamy Pina Colada variation. 89 Imports, San Diego, CA); 40%, $30. A mild, mildly smoky scent opens up to deeper caramel notes. light, dry pisco, and a good candidate for pisco sours.

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 Vanilla sugar and herbaceous notes in the aroma. At THE WINE ENTHUSIAST first, the flavor is sweet and light, but it also has some peppery notes and a clean finish. SPIRITS BUYING GUIDE

Campo de Encanto Acholado (Peru; Fool’s The Spirits Buying Guide is a summary of recent detailed 88 Gold Terroir, San Francisco, CA); 42.5% evaluations and product ratings of a single reviewer, Spirits abv, $35. The label has a fabulous turn-of-the-century Reviewer Kara Newman. Every tasting note is accompa- feel. The spirit clocks in at 85 proof, which is immedi- nied by a rating. Also noted are the full name of the product, ately apparent on the nose and the tongue. Given some its alcoholic strength expressed as percent alcohol by vol- aeration and time, fruity/floral aromas and an elegant ume, the producer’s name, and the suggested U.S. retail price. If the price cannot be confirmed, an $NA (not avail- floral finish emerge from beneath the booziness. able) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottle unless oth- erwise indicated. Pisco Capel Alto del Carmen (Chile; Shaw- 88 Ross International, Miramar, FL); 40% abv, $18. An unusual golden pisco, made from 100% Mus- TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS cat grapes and aged six to eight months in oak casks. Tastings are conducted individually in a controlled tasting environment. Spirits are tasted alone; no formal reviews are The result is a deep butterscotch scent and sweet fla- ever conducted in the presence of any producer or industry vors reminiscent of bananas drizzled with maple syrup. representative. Samples are tasted blind in flights of no more than six to eight products. Price is not a factor in the evalua- Don Cesar Pisco Especial (Peru; Preiss tion. 87 Imports, San Diego, CA); 40% abv, $27. clear. Grassy, sweet bell pepper scent, with a mild ABOUT THE SCORES vanilla note. This pisco has a sweet, round flavor with a Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompa- licorice finish, and a more pronounced alcohol bite nying tasting note to learn about each spirit’s special charac- compared to the Pisco Puro. teristics. The numerical ratings correspond to quality in the following manner: Macchu Pisco (Peru; Macchu Pisco LLC, 87 Bethesda, MD); 40% abv, $27. A zesty pisco Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. with an unusual Tequila-like character, from the vege- Superb 94–97: A great achievement. tal, citrusy scent to the sweet, peppery punch on the Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. palate. Light-bodied. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. Vinas de Oro Mosto Verde Italia (Peru; Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- 87 ClearGrape LLC, San Francisco, CA); 40% critical circumstances. abv, $46. This pisco is for those who love a floral pro- file. The scent is a virtual bouquet of candied violets, Spirits receiving a rating below 80 are not reviewed. with hints of fruit and spice. The flavor is warm and fruity, but has a lingering floral finish that reads a bit Certain spirits are designated as Best Buys. Spirits earning soapy. this designation offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for deter- Piscologia (Peru; Topa Spirits, San Diego, mining Best Buys. 86 CA); 40% abv, $30. For those who enjoy floral SUBMITTING SPIRITS FOR REVIEW piscos. The aroma features violet, rosewater and banana Spirits should be submitted to the following reviewing loca- notes. Inside the lovely art nouveau bottle, the spirit is tion: Kara Newman c/o 36 West 20th St, 3rd sweet and floral to the point of soapy, straight through Floor, New York, NY, 10011. Inquiries should to the lingering finish. be addressed to Spirits Reviewer Kara Newman at [email protected]. There is no charge for sub- mitting spirits, and Wine Enthusiast will make every effort to sample all spirits submitted for review. There is, however, no guarantee that all submissions will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All submissions must be accompanied by a submission form, which may be down- loaded from our website. Please be sure to check the spirits tasting schedule prior to submitting samples. LABELS Labels are paid promotions. Producers and their representatives are given the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza by phone at 813.571.1122; by fax at 866.896.8786; or email [email protected].

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WineMag.com | 55 BUYING I GUIDE

Beer THE WINE ENTHUSIAST BEER BUYING GUIDE

GET YOUR FRUIT ON The Beer Buying Guide is a summary of recent detailed ’s all too easy to steer clear of fruit beers once ence, though there are some exceptions, and alco- evaluations and product ratings of a single reviewer, Assis- you’ve had one you didn’t fully enjoy. hol is usually low to moderate, averaging 5–7%. tant Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo. Every tasting note is accompanied by a rating. Also noted are the full name of Whether is was too fruity, too light, too tart or Some of the best examples come from Bel- I the product, beer style, alcoholic strength expressed as too sweet, it can be somewhat tricky to find your gium, where traditional Lambics are the kings of percent alcohol by volume, producer’s name, and the sug- personal Goldilocks…the fruit beer that’s just fruit beers. Spontaneously fermented using wild gested/average U.S. retail price. If price cannot be con- right for you. yeasts in the air and blended with fresh fruits firmed, an $NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for the bottle size or packaging indicated. But in these amazing times of quality, intrigu- during secondary fermentation, these are some ing (read craft and high-end import) beers, seriously fruit-driven beers than exhibit the best TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS there are more fantastic options than ever for of the ingredient alongside tart wild yeast flavors. Formal evaluation sessions occur in a professional tasting the fruit beer lover of every type. Today, you can The current trend is the use of fresh berries in room. Beers are tasted alone; no formal reviews are ever select from a wide array of styles made with addition to barrel aging, the introduction of wild conducted in the presence of any producer or industry representative. Samples are tasted blind in flights of no many different kinds of fruit and using assorted yeasts further characteristics imparted by oak.. more than six products; the category being reviewed may techniques. The complexity and food-pairing profiles of these or may not be divulged. Price is not a factor in the evalua- The overall style is loosely defined; fruit beers brews make them highly sought-after selections, tion. can be brewed using a variety of bases (though and perfect for converting fruit beer skeptics. typically an ale) with the addition of fruit or veg- Many of these high-end, oak-aged selections ABOUT THE SCORES The numerical ratings correspond to quality in the gies. Fresh fruit may be used, and often provides also come in 750-ml cork-and-crown closure bot- following manner: some of the best examples, though many brew- tles, making for a fantastic presentation at a spe- eries do use an extract, syrup or processed flavor cial dinner or a stunning gift for beer-loving Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. instead. Typically there is little to low hop pres- friends. Prost! —LAUREN BUZZEO Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recom- mended. Odell Friek (Fruit Lambic; Odell Brewing Lindemans Pêche Lambic (Fruit Lambic; Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; 94 Company, CO); 6.5% abv, $18/750 ml. A 91 Brouwerij Lindemans, Belgium); 3.0% abv, often good value. brilliant red mahogany color in the glass with a gor- $11/750 ml. Spontaneously fermented with peaches Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- geous garnet glimmer throughout. The nose is intense added during the secondary fermentation, this is a gor- critical circumstances. and complex with notes of dried red cherries, cocoa geous traditional Belgian fruit lambic that’s sure to powder and a touch of tart bretty wildness. Medium tickle the tongues of fruit beer lovers. It’s everything Certain beers are designated as Best Buys. Beers full in the mouth but with a lively twang of great acidity; you think it will be: a crisp but somewhat sour wild lam- earning this designation offer a high level of quality in a perfect match for a fatty steak like a ribeye. Tart cher- bic base loaded with fresh, pressed peach juice aromas relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or for- ries, wild raspberries and a touch of peach dance on and flavors. Vibrant and brisk in the mouth with a fruity mulae for determining Best Buys. Cellar Selections are the palate alongside accents of soft, spiced vanilla that sweetness that doesn’t come off as cloying, finishing beers that would be good candidates for cellaring. linger through the long finish. 630 cases produced. dry. SUBMITTING BEERS FOR REVIEW The Lost Abbey Red Poppy Ale (Flanders Odell Avant Peche Imperial Porter (Amer- Beers should be submitted to Wine Enthusiast’s head- Red Ale; Port Brewing Company, CA); ican Porter; Odell Brewing Co., CO); 9.5% quarters at 333 North Bedford Road, Mt. Kisco, NY 93 91 10549. Inquiries and submissions should be addressed to 5.0% abv, $15/ 375 ml. Dark mahogany brown with abv, $16/750 ml. The blend here is crazy: 45% ale Lauren Buzzeo at [email protected]. There is a thick, cloudy appearance; you can see the carbonation with peaches added, 19% ale aged in oak barrels and no charge for submitting beers, and Wine Enthusiast practically suspended in the glass. There’s also a good 36% ale aged in oak barrels with peaches. Pours an will make every effort to sample all beers submitted for amount of sediment. Deep and concentrated sour opaque black color with a nice tan head. Aromas of review. There is, however, no guarantee that all submis- cherry aromas dominate the bouquet, with accents of chocolate, sweet wood, vanilla, roasted malt and fresh sions will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the mag- bittersweet cocoa powder, sweet oak and a vinegary Colorado peaches fill the nose, while the mouth is full azine. All submissions must be accompanied by a acidic note. Medium carbonation and assertive acidity with prominent hop notes that dance with the rich submission form, which may be downloaded from our make this a real mouth-puckerer, with strong vanilla- peach purée flavors. A touch tart on the finish with the website. infused tart cherry flavors. 800 cases produced. wild yeasts making their appearance on the finish. LABELS Goose Island Fleur Belgian Style Ale (Bel- Samuel Adams Barrel Room Collection Labels are paid promotions. Producers and their repre- 92 gian-style Pale Ale; Goose Island Beer Co., 91 American Kriek (American Wild Ale; The sentatives are given the opportunity to submit labels, IL); 7.0% abv, $8/22 oz. Though not a fruit beer, this Boston Beer Company, MA); 7.0% abv, $10/750 which are reproduced and printed along herbed pale ale was blended with hibiscus and hom- ml. Light amber in color with an apparent haze and a with tasting notes and scores. For information on label bucha tea. Flowery phenols start you off, supported by slightly pink foamy head. The initial aromas of soft spicy purchases, contact Denise Valenza by phone notes of peach, tea leaves, soft sweet spice and bready oak, sour cherry and earthy forest draw you in immedi- at 813.571.1122; by fax at 866.896.8786; or e-mail malt. The taste is more of the same but with a bit more ately, and transition through to the creamy mouth [email protected]. of an acidic kick, finishing with an oily citrus flavor. Red alongside the vinous profile and cocoa powder flavors. Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at fruit, caramel and a soft wild funk round out this com- Superbly balanced with a delicately sour finish. buyingguide.winemag.com plex but drinkable and well-balanced brew. Samuel Smith’s Organic Raspberry Ale 90 (Fruit Beer; Samuel Smith’s Old Brewery

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2011 (Tadcaster), England); 5.1% abv, $6/550 ml. Bril- ter to it, giving the mouthfeel a thicker, more viscous liant bright red in color with a pink head and outra- feel with less briskness than the other offerings in their geously assertive raspberry sweet-tart aromas flooding lineup. the nose. Rich and flavorful with more intense rasp- berry flavor, but there’s a malt backbone supporting the fruit and a good deal of carbonation alongside the inherent tartness to keep things vibrant in the mouth.

Unibroue Éphémère Pomme (Fruit Beer; 90 Unibroue, Canada); 5.5% abv, $8/750 ml. This white ale brewed with apple must is a beautiful pale golden color with a slightly hazy appearance. Vibrant notes of green apple burst forth on the pour, with a second nosing offering notes of pineapple, cereal with peaches, juicy orange and subtle sweet spice. Ripe apple and Curaçao orange shine in the creamy mouth, while the finish is more the essence of lightly baked apples with sweet spice and coriander.

Harpoon UFO Raspberry Hefeweizen 89 (Fruit Beer; Harpoon Brewing, MA & VT); 5.1% abv, $9/12 oz 6 pack. Pours a cloudy soft pinky-peach hue. Aromas of yeast, sweet citrus and fresh raspberry juice appear in the bouquet. The round, medium-weight mouth shows a nice bready note lifted by accents of tart citrus. Crisp but doughy and not over- powered by the fruit flavor; easy to drink and a great pairing for summer salads (or a base for a dressing).

Samuel Adams Brewmaster’s Collection 89 Blackberry Witbier (Fruit Beer; The Boston Beer Company, MA); 5.5% abv, $8/12 oz 6 pack. Crisp and lively with moderate carbonation and a light mouthfeel. The blackberry aromas and flavors are there, but they’re not overwhelming or artificial. Fresh- pressed blackberry flavors mix with soft notes of wheat and sweet malt. Clean, refreshing and very easy to drink.

Unibroue Éphémère Cassis (Fruit Beer; 89 Unibroue, Canada); 5.5% abv, $8/750 ml. An orangey-amber hue in the glass with a soft pink frothy head. Smells fresh and inviting with aromas of crushed blackberries mixed with wheat beer yeast and soft spice. Strong carbonation and juicy cassis flavors keep things lively in the mouth, which is overall light- weight but somewhat creamy. The fruit flavors dissi- pate slowly through the finish.

Samuel Adams Cherry Wheat (Fruit Beer; 88 The Boston Beer Company, MA); 5.3% abv, $8/12 oz 6 pack. Though fruit beers are a polar- izing style, this is a definite love it or hate it beer. If you like assertive cherry candy flavors, then you’ll be all good. If you’re not a huge fan of the fruit, especially candies with this flavor, then take a pass. It’s cherry- driven for sure, but more of the candied Jolly Rancher and fruit-roll up type of flavor than fresh. Otherwise, it’s clean, light and easy to drink.

Samuel Smith’s Organic Strawberry Ale 88 (Fruit Beer; Samuel Smith’s Old Brewery (Tadcaster), England); 5.1% abv, $6/550 ml. Unlike the raspberry organic ale, this brew is light golden in color with a soft pink hue and moderate aro- mas of sweet strawberry jam. The mouth shows more syrupy strawberry flavor with a bit of medicinal charac-

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