==-=s-.-IS5N 0317 ·7076 Vol. 16 No .3 May • June 1987 $2 .50 Th e W eb ster's dream house took 26,000 board-feet of lumb er, 13,146 hours and th eir entire savings to build. It took one match to destroy. Rem ember, only you can prevent forest fires .

Something to think about from the Newfoundland Forest Protection Association DECKS AWASH -

Vol. 16, No. 3, Ma y-Jun e 1987 from the editor In the process of putting Decks Awashtogether, nowretired, had been a professional photographer, wedepend on many people. Not the least of whom starting in 1933. His father, Edward I. Bishop, a are those private citizens who provide us with in­ photographer at Grand Falls (1908-49 ), won a prize formation , contacts and photographs. Wehave a for photo s of Charles Lindberg taken at Botwood strict policy of acknowledging and giving credit August 1933. The photos were carried by the New to those who help us. Without such help we would York Times, the London Daily Mail and the 7bnm­ find it impossible touncover needed sources of in­ to St1Jr . When we contacted Mr. Bishop, he gra ­ formation . ciously accepted our apology and even offered to Sometimes , no matter how careful we are, we let us use any of his photographs in the future Also, make mistakes . In the last issue featuring a spe­ on page 44 of the same issue, the photograph on cial section on Carbonear, weattributed photos in­ Marni Cryderman 's business card is Mr.Bishop's. correctly. The photos are: Old Roman Catholic Had we known about his photos in advance we like­ convent at Carbonear Ip. 5>,Old United Church, ly could have had even more interesting shots. Carbonear c. 1950and Westend of Water Street c. If any of you have photos, letters, or information 1940(p, 6), Water Street looking west past the post 00 areas of Newfoundland and would lend them to office c. 1945and Fire on Crowdy St., 1945 (p, 7), us, we would appreciate your getting in touch with and W.G. Garland Ltd ., fish and berry box us. manufacturers c. 1950 Ip. 8). The photos are the property of Cyril Bishop of Carbonear. Mr; Bishop,

Table of Contents

Special Section 2 81. Joseph 's 48 O'Donnells 52 history 3 Admira l's Beach 54 the area today 17 editorial 62 Peter's River 17 St. Stephens 19 St. Vincent's 19 Features .. "" ",."""",63 Gaskiers .._ 25 lIome gar dening 63 Point La Haye 29 The Humber Valley Strawberry Festival .. 64 St. :\tar)"s 31 FPl Ireezer tra wler christened 65 Path End 40 The Fogo Process-Stage Two 66 Rh..erhead 4% PuCCin is King 10 :\lall Bay 45 Letters 11

Edll or , SIoUyLou LotMessurier, wneere : Cliffor d Grinling. Roger Burr ows. P hoto&raphen : Clirford Grinl ina. Roger Burrows. Sally Lou LeMelIIIIIrieor. Production .nd Advertill ing MillIIIgt'l'": Hazei lla nia, Circulation : Shir ley Mereer. Photographic Pr'ocalI ing: Universi ty f'hoto&raphy , MernorW University 01 Newfoundla nd, Layoul and prlnllng: Roblllaon .Blackmw:e Printing a nd Pubh ahllli Limited , Cover Pboto : Malt Y«m.n by Clifford Grinling. For Adnrtlillna contact: NellIe Ludlow. 737"-, Iwks A.alh 15publiabed ail timel a nnua lly by tbe Division 01Ell tellllion Servi ce . School01Continuina Studl N and Elllellll1011. Mem ona l Urnven lty 01 Nnrloundland. Call1ldia n HCOIld-e1aa pa».tal Pf'rm il No. sm. Posta l Station A. No nalerial contained ~in nay 1M! reproduced without Pf'rm iuion from thl' edit or , Unsolic ited nanuaeripta will be ret urned only when accOnt pi nled by a l ta mped aeU­ a ~ en velope . Sut.en pI.IOfIlI an! availa.ble a l fl Oper yea r by writing to IlKkI A...., Memorial Unive-s ity 01 Newfoundland, St . Joha 'a, NF. AIC 557. Of' telephoae737.a484, ChequN or ~ order nade ply." to Memorial Univeraity Illual acc'Omplny.w.cnJllklr- 2 - DECKS AWASH special vsecl io n

() jJV;M'-Uttle CoIlnet

G".tCollnet "U:Jl"'oI /tf RI..rtood 1.I.nd /

• St. Mary'. ~Mm'M' /i- ","_.,.' ~ • St. Stephen's 5 km ~/ ~ '----l. Peter's Hfver / ~ to 'rrepassey

- - PETER'S RIVER TO A DMIRAL'S BEACH DeCKS AWASH - 3 history

Peter's River

Th is small community at the western end of Holyrood Bay is little more than a kilometre long and nestles snug­ ly bet ween the mouth of a river and the footof high cliffs. 1lle origins of the name Peter's River areambiguous for it a ppears to come from the French Pierre. which does indeed mea n Peter but also means rock. So while Peter's River is an acceptable translation, so is Rocky River. Which is the correct interpretation is not known. Peter 's River appears in the 1836 census, lumped together with St. Shotts and Holyrood. But given there were only 42 peopl e in 7 houses for a ll three pla ces, it see ms unlik el y that more tha n one or two fam ilies were living at Peter's River then. By 1857 the com bined popu lation of St. Shotts and Peter's River was 45, 840barrels of cod were land ed and over 100 a nima ls were kept including 40 shee p. Pe ter 's River is not listed separately unt il 1874when eight families totaling 32 inhabitants were recordedwith three flsh ing rooms and 14boats. TIle population seems to have peaked in 1901at 70, dropped to 43 in 1945, and mos t recently in 1981was 83. The economy at Peter's River was built upon the fish­ ery with the added advantage that swnmer salmon also One Molloy of Peter'. River with grandson Doug Molloy entered the river and could sometimes be caught in rocky around 1950. (Photo: Zita Moll oy) pools. However, there is only limited arable land close to the ocean which may have prevented the communi­ fishery for these three communities (which are under ty's expansion. Still , it seems to have supported a church one common local council) is now conducted from out fro m early on, possibly from 1884,for in 1924fres hly ar­ of Peter's River. A nwnber of inhabitants workat the fish ri ved Father Battcock built a new church to re place the plant in Trepassey which is now made more accessible original that had "gone to pieces". The church is still si nce the 25-km. road across the barrens was paved in in use . 1986.The community has two small general stores, the Despi te its small size, Peter's River has one great ad­ area's largest hardware store. and a variety of animals vantage over nearby and larger S1.Stephens and S1.Vin­ incl uding goats, ducks, chickens and horses kept in cent's: it ha s a community wharf. In fact, the en tire fenc ed gardens close to people's homes. "

Traditional two- storey house at Peter 's River orig inally the home 01 Annie Molloy. 4 - DECKS AWASH

SI. Stephens

St. Stephens stre tches along several kilometres of un­ dulating road from Peter's River in the west to the mouth of Holyrood Pond in the east. However, the latter part of the commu nity by the pond consists of only a half dozen homes and is sepa rated by a kilometre of road from the rest of St. Stephens. This fishing and farming comm unity was origin ally settled by famili es of the Southe rn Shore and the Capes around 1911. In tha t year the 24 families of Middle Gut (named for its location in Holyrood Bay) produced $3,800 worth of fish products including 750 ga llons of cod oil. With only three traps and eight sma ll boats, 14 men land­ ed 470quintals of fish which they dri ed for market. The population grew to 78 by 1921but little has been record­ ed a bout the community other than it produced 740 gal­ lons of cod oil during the 1920season. St. Stephen's. To 1945 it was known as Middle Gut but The Depression brought hardship to most communi­ was renam ed in honor of Father Stephen O'Driscol1. ties throughout the island but encouraged kitchen all fish ing from nine dories a nd two motor boats which were operated from four rooms. In 1945,the Commission of Government changed the nam e of Middle Gut to S1. Stephens in honor of Fa ther Stephen O'Dri scoll who had served the area for ma ny years before it becam e a parish. S1.Stephens incorpora ted as a munic ipality 1 August 1971.The 1981 census showed a populati on of 172. There are a couple of convenience stores and a service station. New homes continue to be built al though many oCthem are farther inland tha n formerly, indicating less depen­ dency on the near by ocean as most fisherm en use near­ by Peter's River. II ... _~ A two-roomed school served St. Stephen 's and Peter's River. (Photo courte sy Zita Molloy c. 1960) gardens . In 1935, 19barrels of turnips, 480bushels of pota­ toes,and 10,150 heads of cabbage were raised on just eight acres of land . Middle Gut had 13houses with 14 families, LEOREW UMBERCO.LlO. A COMPLETE LINE OF BUILDING MATERIALS LUMBER , ROOFING, WINDOWS ELECTRIC & PLUMBING SUPPLIES , ETC. FREE DELIVERY & FREE ESTIMATES RENEWALREMINDERl subscription expiry

51. Vincent's

St. Vincent's extends from the barachois at the mouth of Holyrood Pond northwards for six kms . along the road to Gaskiers. Most of the community is concen trated at the southern end of the road in the first kilom etre with closely packed hous es hugging the sleep hillside. the R0­ man Catholic church and parish hall forming a focal centre to the community. While most homes overl ook the pond-which is still fished for hake and cod-the main fishery was originally (rom the grey pebbled, steep ly shelving beach of the barachois, a difficult and some­ times dangerous landing. A Portuguese map of 1519nam es this plac e "Porta da Cruz" (Harbour of the Cross ), and by 1527cartographer Majolla repeated the reference in the vicinity of Cape Race, naming 51.Mary's Bay "Bai de Cruz" ad. Father Battcock began at St. Vincent's by building a Overa ll, the population changedlittle between1911 and 1921 rising from 291 to 301people although by 1935it had rise n to 384. Writing in the Newfoundland Quarterly in 1936, W.J . Browne noted that many St. Vincent's men worked in the mines in ca pe Breton and added, "They a re very hardy fishermen, and so they must be for they have no harbour and in rough weather it is highly da n­ gerous to launch a boat from the beach." Browne also noted that a number of looms had recently been in­ troduced and predicted that St. Vincent's tweed might one day become as popular as that of Donegal in Ireland. In the 19305there were a round 25 crewsof six or seven men fishing from St. Vincent's, but the numbers dwin­ died after thisas construction jobs in other parts of New­ foundland opened up during and after the war. 1ben the Holyrood Pond has a nwri,.. at St. Vincent'., scene 01 a fIShing industry's transition from saltfish to fresh Iish winter wol1l;s pro}ect last winter. in the 1950s meant St. Vincent's fishermen had to find a more hospitable place to land their catches. May be-­ school and community hall in 1924, a presbytery in 1926, gan to fish from other places like nearby Peter's River. and a newchurch started in November 1926and fmished By the late 19605there were a dozen trap crewsliving shortly beforetheDepressionof 1929. During theDepres ­ at St. Vincent's. sion , Father Batlcock journeyed toSt. John 's to badger A sawmill was reported in operation in Urnand the merchants and convince them to advance gear and sup­ community boasted five radios . A convent was built in plies to his parishioners. The redoubtable Father Bat­ 1962and by 1966the JXlPU1atioo had swelled to almost 600. tcock becamea legend, staying with his parish until 1970, SL Stephens incoepoeated with SL StqJhensand Peter's one of his last acts being to convince the government to River in 1971 as a local improvement district and had build a bridge across the mouth of Holyrood Pond. a population of 534 in 1981. II

Gaskiers-Point La Haye

Originally twocommunities, Point La Haye in the north and Gaskiers to the south share Gaskiers Bay and are separatedonly by Vales Brook. Point La Haye terminates at the end of a long pict uresque barachois; Gaskiers is characterized by low rolling grassy hills and grazing shee p. It has been suggested tha t the name Gaskiers derives from the French casse-coeur or broken heart­ figura tively a " lady- killer." But E.R. Seary says the name is more likely derived from the French family name Gasq uie or its variants Gascoyne and Gascoigne, the latter being the spelling in census records between 1884and 1901. Simi larly, La Haye is a common family name in France. While the date of earliest setUement is unknown, Fenced gardens and roiling co untrys ide are typ ical 01the " Point Le Hayes " appears on a map of James Cook's landscape at Point La Haye. dated 1762which suggests its settleme nt is contemporary Gaskiers appears in no census before 1857by which with St. Mary's, although in the first census of 1836Point time it had a relatively large population of 100with 19 La Haye appears with a population of only 25. acres under cultivation. At that time Point La Haye had a population of 84. The population in both places was solidly Roman Catholic. Early names were Baldwin, Bishop, Cahill , Dobbin, Hayward, Meehan, Mooney, Francis and Mandeville, later arrivals are sai d to have been Reilly, Kielly, Thbin and St. Croix. The major oc­ cupation was ftshtng. probably carried out from boats 0(( Gaskier Shoal. The 1869 census combined the two communities as "Gaskin Point, La Hare" with a totalof 198people.There is a steady increase in thenwnber of ftsbennen and fJSb.. ing rooms reported but the tota.I catch declined from 3,370 quintals in 1857, to 2,415quintals in 1874,and 98 quintals in 1884. Times must have been hard. 1ben the Iishery turned around with 4,457quintals of cod landed in 1891; but the resurgence wasshort-lived. The catch wasdown to 1,256quintals in 1901 and 1.240in 1911. Like their neigh­ The gras extenda almost to the water's edge at Gaskters. bors in St. Mary 's, therewere years when theinhabitants DECKS AWASH - 7 were forced to eat even their seedpotatoes to survive the winter. It is rea dily apparent to any traveller passing through Gaslders-Point La Haye that agriculture has played an importantrole. Not just by the undulating grasslands but by the way homes arescattered in clumps and often sur­ roundedby ma ny acres 01cleared land. Probably the cul­ tiva tion of crops and animals was the only thing that stood betwee n families and starvation during the disas­ trous fisheries of the 19th century. Agricult ure received fresh impetus from governme nt a fter 1910a nd with the form ation of ag ricultural socie­ ties Gaskiers -Point La Haye benefited. Altho ug h produce-bee ts , carrots, potatoes, turnips, and cabbage-ewes grown only for bome consumption, some lives tock wasse nt to ma rket and butchers were report­ ed to visit the area for sheep, lambs, cows, and pigs. The point It Point 1I Hlye . From the lack of merchants and even a church. it woo1d see m that Gask iers -Point La Haye inha bitants de­ tia and in S1. John's so that flShing declined. There has pended hea vily on St. Mary's for supplies and spiri tua l been a res urg ence in the fishery since 1970, which was lea ders hip. Gas kiers did have a sc hool in 1857 a nd also the year the two communities incorpo ra ted . anothe r was erected in 1921to accommodate 60children, Gask iers-Point La Haye has a joint town council, a but it see ms tha t attendan ce was perennially I()O,I,·, par­ community pasture, a community stage, and a commu­ ticularly during the sum mer when every pair of hands nity hall, also a few small stores, and a carpentry and was pressed into the fishery. cabinet-maki ng busi ness. Aside from the fishery, work In 1935Gaski ers had 16dories, Point La Haye 12, gener ­ is found at the fish plants at Trepassey and at Sl Mary's. ally with crews of four to six. The wa r years, however, In 1981the comb ined population of the two communities offered empl oyment a t military bases in nearby Arg en- was 505. II

51. Mary's

S1.Ma ry 's is situated at the southern end of a Jong in­ draft giving it good access to St. Ma ry 's Bay but lea v­ ing it re la ti ve ly unprotec te d from the st rong southwes terl y winds preval ent there. The harbor a ffords a n eas y landing with a broad pebbled beac h from whic h the land rises gently in grassy slopes with few trees. The community exte nds in an arc of well-spaced homes, both eastward an d southward, many with fenced vegeta ble gardens. TIle most compre hensive and inform a tive history of S1.Mary's writ ten is a priz e-winning essay entitled His­ tory 01St. Ma ry's Bay, 1597·1949 by Micha el McCarthy. The following account is largely drawn fro m Mr. McCar · thy's work. The first visitors to St. Ma ry 's were probabl y l6thcen­ Wry Basq ue, Fre nch, and Port uguese ftsbe rm en. In 1597, St . Mary'. has many fenced garde.... although like this one English sea captain, Charl es Leigh. found ships from La many now have only grass . Rochell e, France, flShing at S1. Mary 's, but reported no permanent inhabitants. In 1662. a John Matthews was reported se ttled at S1. Mary's even though the French cla imed a uthority over the lands west of Trepassey. In 1702, Capta in Leake and his English warship destroyed French fishin g sta tions in S1. Mary 's Bay including sta ges and boa ts at S1. Mary's but reported no perma­ nent inhabitants . Then. in In3, the French abandoned cla ims to the southern shore and by 1720a Captain Ge­ orge Purvis bad issueda planter's deedtDJoIlnRll6egiv­ ing him title to land in Sl Mary's. The community's Iirst permanent set tler was legally established. The community seems to have grown during the suc­ ceeding decades although documentary evidence is sca nt Sl Mary's wasimportant enough to bave a justice St. "ery'., aitueted at the end 01a long Indra h face. Into of the peace, William Spurrier (to 1792) but no magis­ St . "ery'. Say. trate, the closest being at 'Irepassey. Fish merchants Pin- 8 - DECKS AWASH

Elson , pompous and overbearing, an interesting obse r­ vation in light of later developments. In 1832, Newfoundland under Governor Sir Thomas Cochrane was granted representative government and in the first election John Martin waselected to the House of Assembly asoneof two members for the electoral dis­ trict of Placentia-St. Mary's. But 2.000people signed a petition objecting to Martin's election on the grounds he was not a householder. Martin. however, managed to negate a motion for enquiry with his own voteand sokept his seat. Then , in 1834, St. Mary 's received its first resi­ dent parish priest, Father James Duffy, who was to be­ come John Martin's enemy . Prior to Father Duffy's arri val, the congregation had built two churches on a high mound overlooking the beach. Both had blown down. Father Duffy decided to Church and Presbytery at SI. Mary's. build a new church on the beach which had previo usly ney and Frampton of Poole, England, established been trea ted as common property. However, in 1834John themselves at St. Mary's for in 1782one of Pinney and Marti n claimed his firm had title tothe bea ch and erec t­ Frampton's sloops was outfitted with borrowed cannons ed a fish-fla ke its entire length denying fisher me n ac­ to pursue and subdue the American privateer Hazard cess to their drying places and also access to the 1000ai which had been attacking ships in St. Mary's Bay. The cemetery. Father Duffy requested permission to build volunteer crew of 22 captured the privateer and sent the a new church on the beach but Martin refused, offeri ng crew to St. John 's, offering the ship to the governor. He him an alte rnate site which was 100 boggy to be prac ti­ was delighted but made a present of the ship to the pee­ cal. Ignoring Martin, Father Duffy built his churc h on ple of S1.Mary's saying, ";.1very much approve of their the beach. conduct and cheerfully resign all right of title to the The Encyclopedia of ,l\,'f?",4'foundJand suggests that prize. .." Father Duffy built his church while Martin wasaway on 'Thefirst census in 1819showedSt. Mary 's with a popu­ business and that Martin buill his fish-flake only then. lation of 431 Roman Catholics and 23 Protestants with blocking the door of the church. whatever the sequence 63 private houses and three public houses . The commu­ nity was fairly prosperous with fish bringing 12shillings a quintal. 'Thechief merchant \l ..as William Phippard who was also the justice of the peace. Fortunately. crime seems to have been rare with most cases being civiJ dis­ putes. By 1837,there had been only one criminal case in 25 years, the offender having been sentenced to twohours in the public stocks. Thus the inhabitants of St. Mary's were desc ribed as, "q uiet an d God fearing." In 1828, Phili p Gosse, a young E nglishman who was later toachieve fame as a nat uralist, came toSt. Mary's from Carbonear as cler k to the mercha nt firm of Slade a nd Elson. He was unhap py with his posting and described St. Mary's as, "an obsc ure, semi-barbarous settlement". His dislike may have been rooted.in religion and race for the fishermen he dealt with ....'ere all Irish This hom e bu ilt aro und 1810 Is still occupie-d . Catholics, the merchants all English Protestants. Gosse of events, Father Duffy asked. Martin to take down his made few friends save from Emma Phippard, daughter fish-flake and Martin refused, so Father Duffy instruct­ of merchant and magistrate William Phippard whom he ed his congregation to teardownand burn the fish-flake. considered a jovial, good-natured man . On the othe r The congregation happily complied. hand, he found John Wills Martin. manager of Sladeand Martin was furious but played a waiting game. He ig­ nored the opportunity to bring Father Duffy before the Southern Court circuit that met in 51. Mary's, waiting for it to passbefore he began proceedings in the Supre me Court at St. John's. In May 1835,two constables arrived to arrest Father Duffy and take him to Ferryla nd where he posted bail. Charges against eight other fishermen involved in the incident were notlaid until November. Martin wasa mer ­ chant an d perhaps saw no point in depriving himself of the summer catch of these men. A brig with two consta­ bles aboard arrived in mid-December to ca rry the ac­ cused me n to St. J ohn's but were una ble to ap pre he nd the men. The townspeople turned out in force to confront the constables so they left em pty-handed. Governor Sir Henry Prescott at St. John's wrote tothe Colonial Office in London which tooka very serious view DECKS AWASH - 9

of the affair. A naval vessel and troops were dispatched from England in May 1836 to put down the "rebellion" at St. Mary's. Roman Catholic Bishop Fleming, wishing to avoid the military occupation of St. Mary's issued a Pastorall..etter instructing the eight to surrender. Duti­ fully they walked the 100 miles to St. John 's and gave themselves up. The men ...... ere given bail , a date was set for the trial, but legal wrangling and the failure of witnesses for the prosecution to appear caused delays. It was May 1837be­ fore the case was heard and then a jury found the men not guilty . By this time Father Duffy had walked 1500 miles back and forth between St. Mary 's and St. John's. Atter this, the business of Slade Elson at St.Mary's declined and John Martin was relieved of his commis­ sion of the peace. Further, at the general election of 1836 Univerul Fisheries ~anl et 51. Mary's. the two Protestant members for Placentia-St. Mary 's were ousted by John Nugent and Patrick Doyle, both R0­ better paid earning 56 pounds a year and presumably man Catholics. should have been better qualified. Yet in 1860the teacher, By 1836,St. Mary 's had 32Sresidents and 52 ftshing ves­ a 1\lr.Walsh. when tested by a government inspector, did sels, 14of them over 30 tons. Agriculture was well deve­ poorly in arithmetic, grammar. and geography. When the loped with 63 acres of land cleared. 53 acres being under inspector again visited the school in 1862he reported that cultivation. A non-denominational educational school it was not up to the standards of many elementary was also established in 1836with an entrance fee of five schools he had visited. shillings and quarterly duesof two shillings and sixpence. St. Mary's seems to have operated two types of fish­ In 1845, the teacher was a Mr. Devine described as a ery: a shore fishery conducted from small punts and a tradesman and competent teacher. He was paid 23 more distant fishery conducted off Cape St. Mary's in pounds a year and held school in his own house,but when jack-boats of 15to 30 tons. But the fishery bet .....een 1834 visited by the government inspector in October only 44 and 1858was poor,indeed Roger S....eetman. !\fHA for the of a possible 100children were in school, the remainder area, petitioned the House for relief for his district when being absent to help with the fishery. the fishery failed in 1834. He was unsuccessful but the In 1851,a commercial school was established at St. people survived. partly through credit advanced by lo­ Mary's to impart useful knowledge such as grammar, cal merchants. geography, navigation and needlework. The teacher was Conditions .....ere even worse by 1858 with poverty widespread. especially in winter because the merchants no longer lived year round at St. Mary's. In addition, fish catches were small, fish prices were low,supplies expen­ sive and potato blight rampant. A visiting magistrate suggested the unemployed be given road construction work and that peop le should be supplied with seed pota­ toes. The government to some exte nt complied. In 1858.St. Mary's had 692 inhabitants in 93 houses, 14 fishing rooms and 72 stages. Then, in 1860. the fishery and the potato crop failed. Government responded with a road works program including the levelling of nearby hills some of which were toosteep for carriage traffic. a lighthouse was built at Cape St. Mary's and the court­ house was repaired. But undernourished people aresus­ ceptible to disease and St. Mary's was struck by epidemics of scarlet fever. measles and whooping cough resulting in many deaths. The low catches were blamed by some on the use of bulltows,long-buoyed fIShinglinessometimes with sever­ al thousand well baited hooksthat some said over-fished by taking the spawning or mother flsh. Fishermen from Placentia and Bonavista Bays petitioned government to outlaw bulltowa but the fishermen of St. Mary's Bay counterpetitioned for their continuance. The five prin­ cipal inhabitants of St. Mary's-James Murphy, John Walsh, John Whelan, James Kennedy. and Patrick Walsh-successfully presented the petition in 1864,so bulltcws remained although the average catch also re­ mained down. In June 1867H.M.s. Fawn visited St. Mary 's and her captain. Commander Heysham, noted 25 large boats of around 30 tons, 15smaller four-men boats, and 150two­ men punts. He said the previous year's catch in larger A shplant wha rf (l0f'e9round) and public wharf, 51. Mary's. boats had been 25quintalsa man, only haU of what they 10 - DECKS AWASH

thought it ought to be.On his departure on June 9, Com­ In 1868a Captain Parish visited St. Mary 's and was mander Heysham observed 104large boats that had an­ impressed by the people whom he described as "poorly chored overnight in 51. Mary's ha rbor having come to clad but a fine se t of men". He spoke with the magis­ buy bait. trate a nd pries t who told him many fishermen had had only a little oatmeal and water toeat the previous winter. Fortunately, the fishery turned around after 1868so that when Captain Malcom aboard the HM.S. Dana visit­ ed 51. Mary's in 1871 he was able to report, "This is a well-to-do se ttlement." He went on to describe the healthy state of agriculture, the 700or so inhabitants and the schooners so numerous that they were difficult to count, noting that as many as 400vessels sometimes col­ lected there. Captain Malcom did not seem to realize that man y were visitors, 51. Mary 's by this time being one of the most importa nt bait cent res (herring a nd ca plim on the south coast. The fishery continued to be good for the next decade. Despite this, the se ttlement attracted no doctor with the inha bita nts hav ing to rely on the surgeons aboard visit­ ing government vessel s. In 1874,Alex McBride, surgeon on board H.M .S. Spartan, noted that residents suffered from chronic complaints including rheumatism, neural­ gia, amaurosis, bronchitis, asthma. sprain, diarrhea, and haemorrhoids. ROadbuilding a t s t. Mary's had begun in 1836when Jos iah Blackburn was appointed magistrate, and in­ stru cted to mak e a survey for a connecting road to Placentia. In 1841, he becam e chairman of the 51.Mary's Road Board joining William Lush, William Fever, and Fa ther Duffy, a board destined to do nothing because Fa ther Duffy refused to attend meetings with Fewer and """.... Lush because of their part in the fish-flake incident of s t. Mary'. showing th e ch urc h 01 Our Lady 01 the As­ 1835. orthe comm issioners, Father Duffy considered one sumption. an informer, anoth er a perjurer and the third a swindler.

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ATOTA LLY INTEGRATED TRANSPORTATION SYSTEM St. John 's 737-5948 737-7896 Grand Falls 489-2292 Corner Brook 634-8246 634-4381

ONE OF THE CN GROUP OF COMPANIES DECKS AWASH _ 11

Nothing could be done and bridges and roads deteriora t­ ed until Father Duffy was transferred to another parish in 1844. H was not until the late 18605 that St. Mary's was connected by road to Salmonier (which was already con­ nected toSt. John's) while in 1870the road was being ex­ tended southwards to Holyrood (now St. Vincent's). In 1873,Judge Proc..se was ordered toSt. Mary's to in­ vestigate the wrecking of the Florence. a Charlottetow n brig . During a February storm the vessel had ta ken shelter in nearby Mall Bay, anchoring in seven fathoms of water. The storm continued for two days during which the vessel dragged her anchors so that she began to go aground on a falling tide. While thus immobilized, three boatloads of men rewed from the shore and armed with sticks and hatchets forced their way on board to re move 369 barrels of flour. 92 barrels of meal, 34 barrels of pork and one of kerosene. The captainsent a boat to raise the magistrate at St. Mary's, but he arrived toolate to ap­ prehend the plunderers. The captain floated his shi p off on the next tide, went toSt. John's tolay a com plaintand Judge Prowse and some constables were sen t to St. tions as in 1900when William Hogan, M.D., was acting Mary's. But the culprits hid in the woods and the police as doctor, magistrate, druggist and relieving office r, a were unable to apprehend them. concentration of responsibilities that was questioned by Auditor General F.e. Berteau when Dr. Hogan su bmit­ tedsomebilJs.Berteau complainedto the Colonial Secre­ tary about Hogan : As local practitioner he is calJed upon to a t­ tend in cases of illness, and if in doubt of pay­ ment of his fee by the patient, he (as magistrate) directs himself (as relieving officer) to employ himself (as doctor) to at­ tend the case on Government Account , a nd also to give suc h groceries and drugs as may be required, which goods he (as druggist and grocer) supplies. Then (as magistrate) he cer­ tifies all the bills as being "a uthorized by me" a nd that the pr ices of the goods are "fa ir a nd just" . Shovelling manure Berteau wanted the offices of magistrate and reli eving This eve nt underlines the lim ited reso urces of local officer separated but this proved impracti cal. The government at the time. St. Ma ry's was the chief town government paid a fter a rranging a reduction in the bill. for the area but had few public officia ls. At best , these St. Mary's popula tion see ms to have fallen in the lat ­ would be a constable, magistrate, doctor, relieving officer ter part of the 19th century from 665in 1874, to 489in 1884, and priest. Sometimes one perso n would fill seve ra l func- to 483 in 1901.This may have been through changes in the enumeration districts for in 1869 the populations of Riverhead and St. Ma ry 's had been combined. The Newfoundland Government began promoting agriculture in the ear ly 1900sdistributing breeding bulls, stallions, and rams, and newvarieties of seeds through local agricultural societies. St. Mary's Agricultural S0­ ciety benefited,averaging 16barrels of potatoes from one barrel ofa new typeof seedpotato. Land cultivation was up 25%in 1912and only one case of potato disease record­ ed. Six breeding rams were distributed and the sheep population increased rapidly, aided by a total absence 01dogs. They had aU been destroyed by popular vote 20 years before. Early experiments were made in peat cutting with two sets 01toolssupplied by governmenllt 00rnedquite ~"U , even when damp, and augmented the local wood supply which was scarce. The Agricultural Society seems to have foundered during the First World War when with rising fish prices interest in agriculture waned. By 1935, the population 01 St. Mary's had dropped 10 375and the Depression must have been taking a toll for when the newparish priest, Father McGettigan, arrived lrom Marystown in December 1936be lound all the build- 12 - DECKS AWASH

fore the school was completed in January 1969,so it was named the Dunne Memoria l School in his memory. By 1944, Father McGe ttiga n had replaced every build­ ing except the church and this he started to do in August by first dem olish ing the existing l08-yea r-old structure. The newchurch of our Lady of the Assumption was dedi­ ca ted 23 Sept ember 1951 by Archbishop Skinne r. The populati on of St. Mary 's was 604 in 1981 and re­ mains the civic centre for the area with the regional high school. courthouse, and fish processing plant located there. HOYt'e'Ver, the rlShery on which St. Mary's was origi. nall y foonded now supports only one full-time crew

New home s being built at the northern end of St. Mary '• • tngs in a n adva nced sta te of disrepair. In April 1937he started the foundations for a newparish haDfinished that Augus t, and in Novem ber 1937he saw electric lights in­ stalled in the church for the Iirst time. 'Thenin April 1940 he bega n the exca vations for a new presbytery,the old one being about 100 years old. May 1943saw the constroction of a new three-room schoolunder Edwa rd Bonia and William Corcoran.When opened in September it was named for Father McGetti· gan's patron, St. John the Baptist. 'The school \l"3S ex­ tend ed by one class room in 1952and lasted until 1967 when pa rish priest FatherJ.A. Dunne began excavations for a newschool. But FatherDunne died in June 1968be-

Riverhead

River hea d was listed as part of St. Mary's until 1891, when there were already:l23 residents in 58 families . 1be Breens.Hearns, Lees, and Squires arrived from Placen­ tia some time after 1794.and the Fagans from St. Mary 's a fter 1844. Other families living in Riverhead before 1871 include the Corcora ns and Whelans. There was no school in 1845 whe n the inspector visited, but by the 1860's the Roma n Catholic school did not always open. as happened when the inspector returned in 1862. The teacher said he had 30 pupil s, but that they had all gone berrypicking. A new school was built in 1875, and ferry transportation to St. Mary's was added the following year. Most res idents were engaged in the ftshery, and River­ head had a lobster factory with 13employees in 1891and 180 ca ses were packed the previous year. Farming ap­ peared to be important by 1891 when over 125 acres were being cultivated, Most families had several CO'oIt'S. sheep. pigs and fowl. Surprisingly, no church was listed for Riverhead in 1891, but the school had 59 pupils. Thirty yea rs latera church was listedand the popcla­ tion had fallen just below 300. Fishing was still the main occu pation, with 24 boats landing cod to the value of SH,220-by far the highest in the region. Fanning was sufficient tosupply products to the sUl'T'OUDding commu­ nities., and the re were a lso three merchants and four government em ployees listed. Neighboring Cout 's (Coot's) Pond added another 57 residents in 10 ftshing and fanning families. Riverhead's 1981population was 431in 90 families. L0­ cal unemployment was very high at M per cent for young people and 4S per cent for thoseover 25. The opening of the local sa lt£lSh plant helped to reduce this subotantially, and there noware more people working in local plants than in cons truction and the fIShery, which had ~ ­ The War Memori al, Riverhead ously provid ed most local employment. 11 DECKS AWASH - 13

Mall Bay

Jo hn O'Ro urke, an older Mall Bay resi dent. provided a n account of the early history of the community in the 19'705; however, noone knowswhy and when the commu­ oity was named Mal Bay. The addi ng ?f an 'I' may ,have been in response to the bad luck or disea se associated with the origina l nam e. Mr. O'Rour ke reported that the south side of the bay was settled by John Welsh from County Kerry in the ea r ly 17805. His nephew married the daug hte r of J ohn Christopher, who like many other ea r­ ly settlers spent his time between Mall Bay and St. Mary 's. The Christophers were from County Tipperary and sold fish to the Spanish. John Welsh Sr. died in the 18205,by which time Harry Whil e the owners are aw ay, the chickens do play . Fuher (?) had established a farm. Nicholas Christopher at nearly $10,000 were landed at Mall Bay, and the 54cul­ bought that land in 1828. and in the 18305 a John O'Rourke tivated acres also provided good returns on hay and wasthe first settleron the north side of the bay.Pat Daley smalJ fru its such as strawberries. The community also arri ved in the 18405and settled close to the Fagans who had two sawmills, which cu t the only sawlogs in the had moved from 51. Mary's. region, a nd the school had 22 pupils. In 1929,a tida l wave The first school opened in 1870 with Li z Daley as the des troyed property but did not.take any lives here. teacher. At that tim e, there were a bout a dozen The commun ity has remained fair ly small and is con­ families-the only new names being Meehan, Nolan and nec ted to Riverhea d by a gravel road. The school closed Comerford. James and Richard Dobbin , Thom as Doo­ in 1968when children went to school in Riverhead for the dy, who had a plantation in Man Bay but lived with other first time. Most residents work in the fishery, but sheep Doody families on CoJinet Island, and William Meehan and chickens are a visib le reminder of past lifesty les. all Jived in Mall Bay in 1871. As Leo Comerford, who reme mbers those days very well, The population rose from 53 in 1874 to 74 in 1891, but says, "everyone had animals and vegetables which the the number of boats almost doubled from 12 to 23. One wom en looked after until the me n came home in the fall cod.trap was listed in 1891and landings by the 18 fishing and helped with the harvest. While it was not easy to grow families were sm all. A second school opened in the 18808. food, you had everything you needed." By 1900the Gorman family arrived from Harbour Main, ra a nd the Synyards came from Rushoon , Placentia Bay, in 1903.Other new famili es were the Ryans and Bonia s from Riverhead . The first Roman Catholic church was built in 1904and consecratedby Father O'Dnscoll in 1009. The first burial in the local cem etery was that of Tho­ mas Comerford at the age of 'i17 in 1905. Fishing rea ched its peak in the early 19005. Michael and Phillip Ryan both had schooners-most other fisher ­ men had small boatsand traps. In 1915two boatsowned by the Daleys-the Herald and the Senator-ran aground in Mall Bay. The first motorboats appeared in the 19205, when Patrick Bonia, William Meehan and Michael Ryan all had schooners. James Daley a nd Brothers built their O'Nn schooners in Mall Bay. By 1921 the community had a population of noin 22 families mostly listed as fishermen-farmers owning 17 boats and twolarger vessels totalling 62 tons. Fish valued

Roman catholic Church, Mall Bay 14 - DECKS AWASH

St. Joseph's

51. Joseph's is one of the older settlements on St. Mary 's Bay. First known as Black Duck Gullies, it was probably settled by Irish immigrants in the early 1800s. A local history of the community refers to a salmon fish­ ery established by John Masters and Phillip Watson somewhere along the Salmonier Arm , and many of the early residents may have come from Trepassey where court records of April , 1794, refer to a bid on a piece of land placed by Edward Daly, which would refer tosome­ one from 51. Mar y's Bay. The early settlers included the Goff(nov.r Gough ), Power, Ryan , Daly (nowDaley) , Cor­ mack (nowMcCormack), White and Norris families still resident in 51.Joseph's, and others like the Cooper, Welch and Whelan families found in other parts of S1. Mary's Bay. The Irish origin of some of the families is known : the Goff,Daly and Curtis families came from Waterford, the Cormacks from Tipperary, and the Norris family from Kilkenny . By 1836, there were seven families and a population of 24, and the earliest gravestone was that of Anastasia Goff who died in 1836 at the age of 36. Denis Daly and his wife Mary had a son registered as born in Salrnonier the sameyear. There may have been residents before this date, but the St. Mary 's church register dates from 1842-32 years before a register for 51. Joseph's own church. A chapel may have existed before 1840. Father 51. John started a church which was completed in 1917 when Father John Rawlins was the priest. By 1845,the population had grown to 78, when 34of the res idents were listed as fishermen and one as a farmer. The first school was held in an old shed in 1845, but a schoolhouse had been built by 1857when there were zr pupils. 51. Mary's Educational District was separated New Roman Catholic Church, St. Joseph'• . from Placentia District around 1845. Included were Holyrood (St. Vincent's), 1'repassey, Point La Haye, before 1900and to Nova Scotian vessels in the 19IXRSome River head, Coot's Pond, Admiral's Beach, Mall Bay, lobster product ion occurred but it was never im porta nt North Haroour, John 's Pond , Salmonier North (Mount in 51. Joseph's, and a few.men had ba nking schooners Carmel) and Salmonier South (51.Joseph's). In 1845the in 1891or went on sea ling vess els from Brigus and St. school inspector suggested St. Joseph's would get 14 John's. pounds sterling for school maintenance-a little less than Shipb uilding was a major activi ty in the mid-ISOOs. the sc hools in St. Mary 's and Riverhead. Most boats built in 51. J oseph's were sma ll boats, Larger boats were in use by 1857, and in 1874there were a lthough Ga rrett Curtis returned home to 51. Joseph's 45 fishing rooms between 51. Joseph's and Mount Car­ fro m Brigus to build la rger vessels simila r to those at mel. An individual community breakdown is not possi­ Norris Arm and Renews. In 1842, he launc hed the 280-ton ble because S1.Joseph's was listed with other Salmonier square-rigger Michael Anthony named after the Roman se ttlements until 1901.Cod and salmon were equally im ­ Catholic bishop a t that time. Garrett, a nd his two sons, portant, and herring was sold as bait to American ships Steveand Bernard, were still building ships in um, when Jo hn Daley, Jo hn Gough, the McCormacks and Michael Peddle were a ll planters. The first board of roa d commissioners listed Pat Cor­ mack, Willia m Curtis an d Danie l Daley as members. A ferry had previously provided the only link to MOWlt Car­ melon the other side of the Salmonier Arm . Father St. Jo hn played a major role in the building of the first road an d in ag ricultural development while he was in St. Joseph's from 1874to 1895. By 1901,when the communi­ ty was again listed separately, there were 373res idents. Most of the nC'Narrivals were from Irel and , but a fC'N came from England. Several families left in the last two decades of the 18OOi, but those of George Gushue, Richard Carrol, Thomas Bennett, Mart in and Thom as Duggan aU arrived at that time. In 1921, the three teachers at Mount Carmel were all Old Roman Catholic Church, St. Josep h's. from St. Joseph's-two sisters, Kit and Olive Ryan , a nd DECKS AWASH - 15

Felix Chris tophe r. The population had dropped sligh tly to 338 with the departure of several Dal ey, Furey a nd Ryan families. This trend continued in the 19ni and 19405 when more Daley, Ryan, Dinn, McCormack, Power; Sin­ gleton and Gough fam ilies leflthe area. The onty new arri vals were the Tremblell and Barrell families, but the 1945population remained at 302 becausefamilies were large Many of the Barretta left to be replaced by the Han­ lon, Lake and Picco families in the 19605. Quite a few fa­ milies found work in the United States, Canada and Labrador, but the U.S. naval base at Argenlia provided jobs for many who sta yed. Father John Enright, who served as Roman Catholic priest from 1920to 1966,was a nother major influence on comm unity development. This explains why the local school became Enright Memorial Academ y just after his Daley Brothers fish plant dea th. In 1m St. Joseph's had two stores, a churc h, a reg iona l school and a doctor 's clinic. The flrst doctor was St. J oseph 's had a population of 262 in 75 families in not resident until 1940, and only one doctor, Dr. Seide, who 1981. Aboot a third of its younger people were unem­ was present in 1m , stayed any length of time. The clin ­ ployed, but everyone over 2Syears wasworking -mainly ic was buill in the late 19505and electricity reached St. in construction, transportation and clerical occupations. J oseph 's in 1960.

O' Donnelis

This small community was first known as Mussel Pend and wassettled some time before urn when ThomasBut­ land and Patrick Mahoney were listed. There may have bee n members of the Hickey famiJ y from St. Mary's be­ fore this date Other early Irish families were the Comer­ fords , Graces and Han lons. Only three families were listed in 1874when none of the 22 residents was listed as fishing, but in 189130 residents of five families landed sma ll amounts of cod and raised shee p and goats. The community was still known as Mussel Pond in 1921 when there were 148 residents in 'n families, and it was large enough to have a school with 'l'l pupils . Three pee­ ple worked in the lobster factory at 51.Joseph's, and 10-- /.- cal residents also travelled to 51.Joseph's to worship. Three farmers a nd a teacher lived in the community, along with 'n fishermen-farmers and a government em ­ ployee. The Daily News reported in 1970that Mrs. Margaret Hickey had the only phone in the community of 75 fami ­ lies in the 196(5. wbeeever a call came in, she would pass on the message or get the person required-this some-­ times meant a walk of two or three mil es. After dark when everyoneturnedon their ligh ts. the voltage dropped to a point where you couldn 't hear a voice on the phone. Mrs. Hickey still lives in O'Donnells but everyone has a phone now. m

EAS\' 8,\1.\10N DINNER 2 Ibs. salmon fillets or steaks 6 strips bacon, cbopped 4 tomatoes, peeled - and sliced 1 onion. sliced ll 'z cups potato. sliced I I>:cups green beans, Irenehed or cut Sail and pepper to taste . Cut the fish into six portions. Tear off six IS·inch square pieces of aluminum fotl and on the shiny Side put an equal quantity of salmon, bacon, tomatoes, onion, potato and green beans in the centre of each sheet. Add salt and pepper. Wrap and seal the foil welt Bake at 4;,0degrees F. {or lli·20 min'. Serves 6. Can also be cooked on the barbecue. ,... 16 - DECKS AWASH

Coline! Island

The name was first written as CoUinet and Colonet a s early as 1669and may have come from a French family na me or from a settleme nt in the Channel Islands. Howley thought it migh t be a derivative of the word colonel, and a nother writer sugges ted the source was Andre Colonet -master of 1.£Montaran which fished in Newfoundland waters in the 17605. Local tradition attrib­ utes it to the French "curnette" meaning " a place of little hills ". whic hever deri va tion is correc t, both Great and Lit­ tle Colinet Islan ds were used as fishing stations in the 1700sand lBOOs. The firs t perma nent settlement was al ­ re ady in pla ce by 1836,whe n 53 people-mostly fishing serva nts-were listed. Mother lXX 's was originally Re­ gina , which it becameonce more by proclamation in 1913 before bec omi ng Reginaville in 1951until resettlement a few years la ter. The na me may have been a corrup­ ating in Mosquitoby 1881, and a schoolhouse was built be­ tion of Mother Hicks Cove, as shown on an Admiralty tween the two communities which lay 4 kms apart. They map of 1869, or Mothe r Rex , by which it was known to both had churches, but services were ofte n held a t 81. Howley. Both Mother Rex and Regin a would ref er to Joseph's. Mother lXX 's beca me Mother Rex aga in for a Quee n Victoria. time from 1891, and there was a lobs ter factory with 18 By 1845, Little Colinet had seven residents, while employees. This was the largest factory in the area, pack­ Mosqu ito and Mother lX X's on Great Colinet Island had ing a total of 304 cas es in 1890. five fa milies and a total of 38 residents. The 1857census By 1921Regina had increased its popu la tion to 69 in listed Litt le Colinet with to residents, Mosquito with 43 18 families and was larger than Mosquito whic h listed and Mother lXX 's with 30, but only the Great Coltnet set­ 45 in 11 families. While Regina had only fishermen­ t1em ents were listed a fter this. farmers, Mosquito had a churc h, school, three teachers, A fish ery survey in 1871referred to the neatness and a government employee and a farmer. Regina's lobster productivity of Mosquito Cove's six Roman Catholic fa­ factory had seven employees and its production had mili es a nd 'K1 res idents , a nd the same comment was ap­ dropped to only 15 ca ses. plied to Mother lXX 's Cove where there were 41 resi ­ The logging industry reached a peak from 1920 to 1940, dents . Early families included theRyans, McEvoys, Han­ and fishplants were set up at Mosquito by Warehams of Ions, Linehans, Dood ys, Daltons and Powers. Mosquito 's Carbonear and at Reginaville by Ea st Coast Fisheries. popul a tion increased from 38 in seven families in 1874 A total of 264 res idents of 51 famili es, mostl y from to 61 in II families in 1891. Fishing and farming were the Reginaville, resettled at Admiral's Beac h in the late 1950s only ac tivities listed . A Roman Catholic school was oper- and early 1960S. II

Admiral's Beach

As the nearest point of land to Great Colinet Island, afterwards. Th e Daley , Dood y and Linehan families ar­ Admiral's Beach was an obvious place for island resi­ rived some tim e before 1871, and the Powers somewhat dents to resettle in 1956.Legend has it that it was first later. Settled by a Frenc h ad m iral a round 1805, and that the By 1874there were 20residents of five famiJies engaged first Ir ish se ttlers were members of the Gregory, Hearn in the fishery, a nd this increased to 28 in seven families and Come rford families with the Barrons arriving soon by 1891.As late as 1921there were still just 33 residen.ts,

Entrance to community playground. DECKS AWASH - 17

but fish to a value of over $3,000 were landed, which provided a good return for the three large families then listed. . The arrival of families from Great Colinet Island in the 1950s and 1960ssaw an expansion of the communi­ ty's boundarie s up the hill where land was available­ the older families occupied land around the beach. By 1971Admiral's Beach had a community council and was becoming an important place for landing fish from 81. Mar y's Bay. The 1981population was 362in 70 families with 65 men employed in the fishery, and others in processing, health , constru ction and transportation. About half the working women found work in process­ ing, with the remainder in clerical , service and sales oc­ cupations. II

tUBI.l(K ;R.-\PII'· St. Mary's Bay, from 1800 to 1930". MUN Education paper. Daley, Gera ld. " A historical stud)' of St. Joseph's, Salmonier, 51. Mary's Pree se, D. W. Hislor y of Newfoundland , 1896 Bay". Mar itime History Group, 1973 Seary , E,R. Family Names of the island of Newfoundl and. Memoria l Dl"cks AII'8Sh, Vol. 10, ~ o . 3, June 1981 University of Newfoundla nd, St.John's. 1m . Encyc/opt!dJa of .....t'>l"!oondland and Ldbrwlor. Vol. I. ed. J oseph R. Small­ Stamp, Virginia. " HisllrY of our community (St. Vincent'S1" . 1964. wood. Newfoundland Book Pu blishers (1967 ) Limited , 1981 Whela n, Elizabe th, History of 5 1, .'l-fary's MUN, 1972 Ency cl opedia of Nt'>l"!oondJand and Lab rador. VoL 2. ed. Joseph R. Small· wood. ~ew found l a nd Book Publishers (1967>Limited. 1984 ACK~OWI .F.IK;E ,\IE ,·..-rs G-'foundlandand Labrador. CeRSusRelurTISls:J6.1935.1"IJl" "Ian y thanks for their help to Len Bungay, Ben and Betty Power, "Iichael Dominion Bureau of Statist ics. McCarth y of the ~eI" found l a nd Historical Society; the staff of the Q>ntre McCarthy, Michael. Hislory of 51. Mar,Y's Bay, 1597·1949, SI. John 's, 1971 for Newfoundland Studies; the staff of the Reference Section of the A.C. ~r, Fred. " A history of educatio nal adm inistration in Mount Carmel, Hunter Library ; a nd the staff of the Mar itime History Group Library the area today

Peter's River Changing-times

Thm Molloy lives at Peter's River as do his mother and father, Ron and Zita Molloy, two genera­ tions, similar yet different. Tom. 30, drives a low, white, Honda seda n. He lives with his young wife in a modern bungalow his father built for him and works at the fishplant in Trepassey. " I've always lived and worked here," says 'Ium. "I got as far as Harbour Main one year, but that was far enough. I'd like togo fish­ ing because it is somet hing I like todo, hut I'm at the plant because I have to be. You have to ma ke money. If I quit the plant to go fishing I mightn't get back when the fishing is over. Right now I Times were different for 'Ibm's Ibeen building a home since he have seven years ' seniority at the father. When Ron was 30 he was 16, a slow business without plant and if I quit I'd lose that. " wasn't yet married although he'd cash. He cut trees and took them 18 - DECKS AWASH lo a fellow with a sawmill and paid him with a stick for every stick he sawed . By the time he had enough lumber for a house he'd cut enough trees for two houses. Ron and Zila still live in the house. "We were married in 1952," recalls Zila, a jolly woman who talks a mile a minute. "He was old, 34, and I was 32," Ron is almost 70now,a lean whipsaw of a man with large hands from years of hard work . He built bridges and boats and fished from Peter's River, a hard busi­ ness dragging the fish up over the steep rocky beach tosplit and salt St. Anne 's church at Peter's River was refurbished by the congregation and them. It's easier today. Is used by Boston resident Father Tom Halleran to hold masa when he vlaits "My father would be all day on his sister Zlta Molloy. the water, " Tom remembers. people smiling from the pages. a brother, Father Tom HaUeran, "But now you go out and hauJ mementos from a time when tak­ now a resident of Boston but for your trap may be 7 or 8 in the ing a photograph was still an 25 years a missionary priest in morning and you might be sitting event. In one shot a younger Ron Africa . He still visits Peter's down in the house again at 10.All wields a splitting knife on the old River each year and holds serv­ you have todo is bring it up at the wooden wharf. ices in the little church there wharf, drop it in the truck and it's Zita is an import. Ron brought which the people of Peter's River off to the plant. Maybe you haul her from Trepa ssey. Zila also has refurbished in his honor. 11 them again at 3 in the evening and be home again at 5. Out of a 1...---..:..------.::;,1 day you're probably working only LABOURILE TRAVAIL five hours and you've got no one JOURNAL OF CANADIAN RE\'UE I) 'ETUDES looking down your neck. Youcan LABOUR STUDIES OU\'RIERES CANADIENNES make $8,ClOO-$10,OOO in five to six SPECIAL INTRODUCTORY OFFER/OFFRE SPECIALE weeks." While the supply lasts. new subscribers may purchase sets cf the JOurn.a! .It 'Ibday Peter's River has about d special ba rgain rare 01 $150 ,00 25 homes and a concrete wharf Avec tout nouvel abonnement . l'a bcnne peut .lu s..~ i acquenr la :ic!rit' complete that it shares with nearby St. de la revue pour Ie pnx rnodrque de Sl50,OO ,lu ssi longtemps que nos reserves Stephens and St. Vincent's fisher ­ de numero s anciens ne scm poilS epuisees. men. Last year around a dozen Subscribers for 1987 will receive/Lea abonnes pour 1987 recevrcnn trap-boat crews operated from L.Jl",urL..·rr.1,,,.uI19jJytI") Peter's River. None of the trap "",U mclude arnc les by David ~l ontgomcry , Betti n..a Br.ldbury, Bruno boats is owned by Peter's River Rarmrer . jacques Ferland . and Glen ~{.lk.ih onuk men although some crew the boats operating there. wb..,ur u Tr.rl\lll :'0/19871 "Let me see how many men "",U mcfude amc tes by Andree Levesque . Jost E Ig.lrtUod. Bryan 0 there were from here," says Tom P...Imer . DougLis Cru1kstu.nk and Gregory S, Kulcy. james Stauord. i nd counting them off on his fingers. KC1th Archer "Six'" yells Zita. FUfClh'n/[tr J.nger "No Mother, you don't know InJi vl.!u.lUindi \·ld ud 0 $15.00 o )20.00 ' US, I what you're talking about," says lnsm cnom l/msunmon o S20.00 o S25 .00 (U,S,1 'Ibm and continues to count. StuJent/ttuJIJ.nt lel "Six!" yells Zila. Retlred,'retrJ.ltc! [j SI2 .011 u $17 .00 IU .S.) "Be quiet, Mother." He goes on Un~plu)·cd/SJ.ns- tr J.v.il counting. Finally he looks up. " Six," he says quietly. Cc mple re SC't 01 bolck ISSUes419"61861 Back in the t960sZila operated Sene compl ete de wt>l.·ur u Tr.n'.l:lII'J76 861 ~ 5150.00 a branch post office from her home for five years, but then the \1.\,';;lUlCARD ..«'l"f'd oX (~"r M!\~TEaC\1lD ,PO...... MM.< 'hcqw p"olW 10 \.-...Iin...... rdo<'.j t)<>n\or4ou advent of rural post boxes made e.-m", ~...n l-ob...., I~....,... lc.:...... "r"l'It>o_r..,tlr"'.· c.r~ her redundant. She has a photo- Il ... " ...·t:q , M.--.n.oll'n"rntty Dq>..nrmrn'JI'IbtOo'I,n. r-. '''''n~W!'' unW" .\Ie \.~~ ... J..M.NIl,! c..""d" .\K)$7 ...J DECKS AWASH - 19

St. Stephens Mike St. Croix MikeSt. Croix and his wife Syl­ via have run the 81. Croix Su­ perette in St. Stephen's for about 15 years . They sell paint, a few household items, sporting goods and groceries. Sylvia was on va­ cation in New Brunswick when we dropped by. The business makes it difficult for them to lake vacations together. Mikesays he's holding his own but the competi­ tion is increasing. "There's more stores being built every year," he says . here." Inie Flemingalso of 81.Stephen's. "Around five since we started Mike'syoungcustomer is Ber- II

St. Vincent' s

Trap boats and hard times

out of the trap like you dri ve Cyril Gibbons, 58, of St. Vin­ sheep from a big garden into a cent's is a fisherman. He has a small garden . You tow the cod weathered face that's seen a lot hag with your boat to the wharf, of summersandhandsthathave only a mile an hour, but you can hauled a lot of traps. Wediscover tow 50,000 lbs. of fish as eas ily as him in his basement putting the you can tow 5,000 lbs.' first coat of paint on a new 18-fl. This is because the fish is still boat he's just built. The "flat", as alive. In fact, one of the reasons it's called, is used for going be­ it's such good quality fish is it tween a larger trap boat an­ never goes inside the boat to be chored offshore and the wharf , knocked or bruised. It's hoisted "It's a wild area," says Cyril straight ashore, someti mes the who has seen waves remove hardest part of the operation. chunks of highway and dump Peter's River wharf is a concrete them in Holyrood Pond. It's so ledge in the side of a cliff 50feet rough people no longer fish from above the deep swellsand hissing St. Vincent's. Cyril has one of four sea . A 4O-ft. boom is swung out remaining trap crews but they over the boat to haul up the fish. nOW" fish from Peter's River. While one man steadies the boat "Yearsago therewere25crews Cyril Gibbons with a line another sends the fish fishing from here with six and up to Cyril who operates the seven men each . It was all salt­ as much as 50,000Ibs.at one time. winch. It's a critical moment fish then. But when fresh fish They empty their trap once or when a catc h may be lost. came in, you had tohave a facili­ twice a day, six days a week. Get­ "The boat has to he quite a dis ­ ty for landing it without toomuch ting the fish ashore can be a lance off," says Cyril. " U you handling so we had to move to lengthy and difficult process. make a mistake she'll bang into other places." "To bring the fish ashore weput the rocks and bust up." These days Cyril fishes with a cod bag on the end of the trap, The other crew members ice two or three sons and a couple of something like the cod end used the fish supplied by the commu­ neighbors. Their cod trap moored on a dragger," explains Cyril. nity's ice-maker. From there it's a mile or so offshore has caught "Then a fellow will drive the fish Iaken by truck to Universa l Fish- 20 - DECKS AWASH

eries plant at St. Mary's. Cyril and his crew caught 370,000Ills. 01 cod last year, but it's much smaller fish than it used to be. Cyril says today only a quarter 01 his catch is large lish . As a boy he recalls his father's selling fish to the merchant when it was three parts large and extra-large, and one part small. " The small wasn 't tom cods either. They were 17and 18inches . The big ones were three feet with the head oil ," he says. " Before I went trapping in 1969 I was gill netting. We were us ing 7-and s-inch mesh and I often had a fish I could hardly lilt. Now they 're down to 5-inch mes h. The Cyril Gibbon s co mplete d t his 18-loot s kiff In about lour weeks . It 's used to big fish is not there any more, it's help emp ty t he cod trap into th e cod bag. not coming in." Cyril does n't hold with scientif­ then . Now they've got three or have been a hard one. He smiles ic explanations for the reduction four of their own and Metropoli­ as he recounts his boyhood . in size. He thinks the stock has tan France is over here scooping " I was 14when I first went out simply been over-fished. up our supply 01 fish . I'm talking in the boat. We'd go out at 5 in the " I remember back in 1962, about the area 3PS and I don't morning. My father would wake there was just a couple of side want scientists telling me 3PS me . You might get a drink of draggers at Trepassey: Birdseye, isn't our stock . They say that ours water. If you had time you might an English company, had a cou ­ is the northern cod , so why was it put some mola sses on a slice of ple, then National Sea came in the last two years the fish was a bread and take it with you to the with a few. The Portuguese were lailure right lrom labrador down boat. You wouldn 't see any more over with hook and line but it to Trepassey and we had all the food until whatever time you got wasn't economical for the fish we could catch? Because in that night. My father a lways Spa niards, the West Germans, or most of our fish is from 3PS not got a lot of fish in a big trap, way the Russians to come over until nort hern cod, that's why. If the out. We'd betowing it in for a cou­ they got factory ships. Now every French keep fishing 3PS I'm not ple of hours and people would nat ion in the world is over her e." sure how many mo re good years come out in motor boats to see us He's equally concerned abo ut fishi ng we'll have in St. Mary's for fish and my father wouldn 't the French. Bay." turn them away. He was that kind "I worked over on St. Pierre Cyril explains the lacts as he of ma n. He had a great heart for and Miquelon for nine months in sees them. He doesn 't sound bit­ the next man even though they 1969. There were no draggers ter although his life appears to delayed us lrom splitting the fish. You'd probably have dinner around 9 before you went to bed, and if you split fish until 1 or 2, then you might have a cup of tea ." In those days the fishermen worked Cor the merchant. Cyril admits he's not sure what kind of language to use to describe. the re lationship between fisherman and merchant. ." Let' s say he 'll never get a prayer from me ," he says. "They had the fisherman in a bind. He had no money but he needed oil clothes, rubbers, rope-everything to get fish. There was no other way to feed The wharf at Peter 's River Is bullt out l rom the side 01 the cliff and fis h is your family, and besides that the hoisted 50 teet lrom the boa ts below . fisherman had no food. So he had OECKS AWASH - 21 togo out to the merchant and beg. ther e were two or three grades; you got from him in the spring Finally you got some supplies, large and small Madeira, and you might have enough to buy like coils of mani la rope and West Indies. West Indies was sup­ foodfor a couple of months in the twine for the traps. Youhad to tan posed to be raggedy, hroken fish. winter. That was it." it first, boil it in a mixtu re of tar I don't know how they ate it. But Cyril flexes his fingers. He has and paint then you'd jump on it any small flaw in your fish and a touch of arthri tis in his hands wearing oil clothes from the year the merchant's fellow would these days. before and finally shake salt on it. throw it out for West Indies. You " The queeres t thing about it "Now the merchant was also were there looking at him but was we worked so hard, we were the fellow that bought the fish. there wasn 't much you could do. always soaking wet with wa ter He'd give you wha tever he Youwouldn't have split the fish if going right down in your oil thought was all right to give you- you thought you'd only get West clothes, and only making nothing. never mind what it was worth . He Indies for it, it was that Jow in And everybody was happy," he had a fellow culling the fish and price. When you'd paid off what concludes, almost with surprise.

A need to read

Schoolteacher Bett y Stamp of difficult ," she recalls. " There S1. Vincent's is a vorac ious were no big boys. When they got reade r who likes to get her stu­ to a certain size they were consi­ dents hooked on books. It's not dered just too big to go to school surpr ising that when Decks and went fishing." Awash once made a n error a bout Declining enrolme nts led St. Peter's River she was quick to Vincent' s school to be ama lga­ spot it. mated with Dunne Memorial " You wrote the first church school at 51. Mary 's in 1981where built at Peter's River was Church Betty still teaches. of England ," she says." 1doubt it, " 1 teach English and a typing I very much doubt it, but come in class, a usefuJskiIl nQIN that com­ anyway." puters are coming in. I have more Betty, 47, was born at nearby students now. I encounter close to SI. Stephens close by Holyrood 200eac h day and I'm finding 1get Pond in a small area called the more non-readers than before. It Cove. She had responsibility thrust on her early in life Cor at 18 she was made principal of the ·CRAFTS CHARACTeR" four-room school where she had • 06 been a student just two years previous. lL~ ) NEW~NDLAND "I'm a product of a one-room r~ LABRADOR school to grad e 9-that was in St. Stephens . When 1got to Grade 10 I cameover to 51. Vincent's. Then through Father Battcock and my atch for tags with ~ mother, a former teacher, I this logo. It helps Widentify the many managed to get a bursary to go to SI. Bride's College, Littledale. 1 fine "Crafts of Character" ~ ~ prod ucts from Cit.,; "Is did grade 11 and one year ~:e,cr4- teacher's training. With that I Newfoundland ..... was supposed to be ready to take and Labrador. ~ ~~ on principal oCa school. An awe­ f~'.,~~ some responsibility. I wasn't even "'1.'11; told you could do a second year v....~ teacher training." '"',fl..f""''-Ii.f.t:. 1"'_- Betty was the youngest of four teachers at 51. Vincent 's school, a solid brick building that boast ­ Depart ment of Rural, Agricultural & Northern Development ed a furna ce and flushing toilets. Raben Aylward. Minister " Discipline wasn't too 22 - DECKS AWASH

may be becau se I'm dealing with larger numbers. In St. Vincent's 1 could push them more and I think I sent out a lot more readers than I'm sending out now. When I encounter myoId students, even as adults, I find they still have a kee n interest in reading." The closest public library is at Trepassey. Some years ago Bet­ ty approached government in an attempt to have a permanent col­ lec tion set up locally, but without success. She thinks that most peo­ ple who have the interest and money go to S1. John's to buy books. Betty finds students more worldly today. TV has given them The old tour-room sc hoo l at St . Vincent's where Betty fi rst tau ght is bu ilt a more global perspective. But fro m br ick and sti ll very so lid. Tod ay it is used as a community hall . she finds it sometimes difficult to motivate students to take advan­ tage of modern instit utions such sc hool today many would have foundland. as the University and Marine In­ been labelled special education " The you nger generation stitute. students. But they went on to doesn 't subscribe to the idea of " I think students are aware the build homes and ra ise children ghosts but this area is supposed more they prepare themselves an d are an asset to the commu­ to have a lot of them . My father the better their chances are for a nity and pa rish, passing on a believed in them because there job. but I think they have to pre­ lifest yle to their children that' s was no other way of accounting pare themselves to go into work commendable. I don't worry so for some thing s he heard, like that's not traditional. They can't much now." rustling oil clothes . And of course all stay here. The economic base Betty has ta ug ht at othe r there was a thing caUed a bibe, a isn' t able to support them ." places: Petty Harbour for three woman who was supposed to ap­ Which means that the best aca­ years and also at Marystow n. She pear before a death in a family as dem ic performers could weU be also took time off to return to an omen . I've never seen one but lost to the community, but this Memorial University to further the phrase is pretty common. If does n't worry Betty . her education. Teaching Cassie you've gone to bed, then you're up "I used to agonize terribly over Brown's DeathontheIce tosome wandering around you'd be told, the fact that many boys had students rece ntly reminded her of 'Will you go to bed . you're wan ­ difficu lt ies in the academic the superstitions and beliefs that dering around like a bibe! ' It's stream. If they were in high were once common in New- used as a comparison. You ca n imagine the bibe being dressed in 1,.------,1a long gown," Betty adds. Betty is a generous person. She fed us before we left and even 81 ELIZABETH AVE. P.O. Box 9458 gave us some historical infnrma­ ST. JOHN'S. NFLO. tion on Peter's River to make up for the loss of its mythical Church of England church. " I believe a Michael Walsh was the first settler at Peter's River. He's supposed to have had 50 hea d of cattle and would take his wife and family to the Crossing Place at the head of the pond for the winter. There were wolves TELEPHONE around in those times-and this is A.W. GILL STORE (709) n2-5550 where a bit of hyperbole gets in M.E . PENNEY OFACE (70ll) 753-'744 the way-the story goes that his wife held a wolf while he shot it in such a way as not to spo il the 1L JI skin ," she concludes. I'll DECKS AWASH - 23

A taste for independence

One of the signs of spring in Newfoundland occurs when men go outside to look at the family pickup after a long winter, poke speculatively at rust patches un­ til they successfully push a finger through a panel, then look glum and wonder if she'll last another year. By the second week of sun­ shine you' re lucky to find a hard­ ware store with a boxof rivets or a roll of lin . At Ed SI. Croix's home in Sl. Vincent 's they've gone the whole hog. Ed 's fath er Clifford is planning to paint the entire truck-with a paint roller. " Get a hot day a nd you ca n roll it on just as goodas you can spray it." says Clifford who besides sav­ 51, Vincent'. mayor Ed 51. Croix (se8t~ with his parents Ciifford and Alice ing money points out he 'll get a St. Croix. bell er job because he thinks Vincent's are fiercely indepen- Vincent' s, St. Stephens, and ga ra ges thin the paint too mu ch. dent, as Ed rela tes. . Peter's River. "There's no sense buying a "We had a grant of $375,000 " We've got aho ut 900people all qua rt of pa int if the fellow only around 1!I74 for water and sewage, spra ys half of it on then paints together and we have the lowest council fees that you have ever, but there was some people had somebody else's pickup with the their ownwater and they weren't other half," he rea sons. ever heard tell of in Newfound­ land : $20a year," says Ed proud ­ going to hook onto a line so they Clifford a nd Alice SI. Croix took a petition, got people to sig n have 12children ranging in ages ly. Despi te this, some people ca n't or won't pay. The council is owed it and sent it to the government. from 15 to 41. A num ber have So the money had to be sent back. moved away although it's difficult around $300. Perhaps the problem Nowpeople have their own water to say how many because of the with a $20fee is it's close to the price of a case of beer. and sewage and if it goes wrong traffic of family, relatives and they have to call a plumber in­ friends that seem to be passing "Yes, but if I want a case of beer, and my ga rbage took out, stead of having council fix it. through. Oneperson whois a resi­ About 1976, government offered dent for sure is Ed , 34, who sits a nd street lights, wha t do I pay for?" he asks. $775,000 and they turned that through it all . He 's mayor of the down too. Wouldn't lake it. Very amalgamated communities of St. It see ms the inhabilants of St. independent, but I'm not sure it's very clever." Allbough St. Vincent's was originally founded on the local trap fishery, only three crews of six still fish, and that is conduct­ ed from Peter's River which has a wharf. Ed remembers as many as 20crews once fishing from St. Vincent's beach. Most people work in fish plants such as Trepassey which offers almos t year-round plant work. "There's no jobs in St. v tn­ cent's. None. If you want work you have to go out of St. Vincent's-almost out of New­ foundland," says Ed. Clifford SI. Croix lakes a break St, Vincent'.run. tor about 7 kma along Holyrood Pond . It Include. t~ com­ from repairi ng the truck. Hesug­ munltle. of Peter '. Rive,. dn St. Stephen'. In It. community council. gests the St. Croix name is pro b- 24 - DeCKS AWASH ably French, perhaps from before they die, give them every­ anointed him and heard his con­ Placentia. but the famil y has thing. keep them drunk and when fession. When he fmished he sa id, been Jiving at St. Vincent' s since they go they won't even send you 'Now Joe, you're aU stra ight­ at least 1857. a card." ened up for the othe r world now. " My father and grandfather Clifford's observation is met by What abou t you, do you like to are buried up in the graveyard. roars of laughter. He continues. go? ' They've been up there a long " There was an old fellow died 'Oh Lord! Wheth er I likes it or spell. It's funny but you can do here in 1946, J oey Stamp. He was not I sup pose I'll have to go now";' what you like for them on this side sick and the priest went down, he says." QJ

Trying newfangled ideas

Dan Martin, 32, of St. Vincent 's is a cheerful man with a round smiling face, a shed full of fishing gear and an energetic curiosity. His latest thing is newfangled lob­ ster pots. Green , rectangular, plastic-coated wire mesh boxes with rubber rings and poly strings. " I got the idea from the Atlsn­ tic Fisherman paper," says Dan proudly. '" couldn 't get the wire locally so I freighted it in, two big coils of wire, and there was a plan with it. The reason I went to wire One of Dan Martin·. new lobster pot•. is wooden pots rot and beat up. It's a rough shore here. These Dan got his lobster licence a but didn' t catch much . He got a pots are expensive, though. I paid few years back. It entitles him to couple a round seven pounds, but $700 and you get 32 pots. There 100 traps which he finds too few. admits they were exceptional. they all are, " he says waving to " There 's not enough in it for This year with his newpots he has the small stack of shiny pots. two fellows togo at it. You'd want a new idea . He' s going to nearby " I don't know whether they are about 300 pots for that, to go out cape Engli sh wher e the sea is a ny da mn good at all, but I and spend a day at it. So I get a generally too rough for most thought I'd give it a try. I bought few fellows to go along with me, fishermen to bother. 50 wooden pots for $300," he ex­ a different one eac h day and I "The lobsters heave up there so plains showing how the entrance give them a lobster or two. But I'm going to put some of these to the new pot slopes downward some days I end up only getting pots on a tr awl-they do that in which should beenough to outwit one so I give him it." Newfoundla nd. I'll use the others even your seasoned escape-artist The last two years Dan went individually." lobster. lobster fishing on Gaskiers Shoal Dan 's ma in fishery is gill net­ ting for cod at St. Shotts. He has a 2G-fl. boat and fishes with St. Shotts na tive George Hewitt. "There's about 25 boats down there. fl's a fairly good spot to catch fish. We'll start the first of May and if we're lucky we may get to the middle of August out of gill nets . Then it's trawling and jigging-if you can get the weather. We landed 100,000Ibs. of fish last year for an average of around 23 ce nts a pound , but I don't know about the fishery...." Dan lilts his ca p, inspects it for boles then puts it back on his head . He continues. " Ifyou could be at it aU year it Dan Martin with daughter Pame" and her frktnd Suun Smith . would be all right. But it's jus t a DECKS AWASH - 25 few fast dollars to get you out of went one better and married a St. December before you get any thehole, up on deck, then it's over Shotts girl so lives righl on the money. And the fishery is all again . U youcould slay fishing or fishing grounds . there is here, there isn't a nything the fish would hang around lon­ Dan has three children and his else.But I'm always trying some­ ger, you'd be all right. " wife, Madonna , is expecting a thing different, something new. Dan started fishing in 1978 on fourth. He has two late model "The other day I saw a queer his brother Cyril's 350ft. lnngliner ca rs in his driveway. He laughs at kind of a hook in the Atlantic There was nowhere closer than th ese symbols of apparent Fisherman, so I phoned buddy Riverhead to moor her, so the two wealth. a nd asked him to send me a few would be up at 3 a.m . to drive to " Looks all right for a poor samples...." Riverh ead where they would fisherman, doesn't it? But it's the If you're passing , you might spend another three hours stea m­ wife, she's a subs titute teac her. as k Dan how his new lobster pots ing south to the fishing grounds . "It's a pity the fishing season worked out. He may have some By the time they got home it was isn't longer. September is the last news about the queer kind of 11p.m. Then in 1979 the industry lime you make a bit of money out hook, too. If it looks remotely was bedeviled with strikes, so of fishing and you don't get any feasible, Dan will proha bly try it. Dan and Cyril gave up big boats. pogey until you apply the 15thof Dan took up gill nett ing but Cyril November, SO you are looking to

Jerome 51. Croix

Je rome St. Croix, 21, of St. Vin­ cent's, took time out from fence building to show us race horse Susie Ray Exp ress. "She's 7or 8and likes her free-­ dom. Weuse her for hauling fire­ wood a nd manure-not much more. She loves to run and I ride her on the lake in winter when it's frozen over. She's got a buddy. They run on the ba rrens together." Susie Ray Exp ress belongs to Jerome's father Valentine St. Croix, so named beca use he was born 12th Februar y considered close enough to St. Valentine's Day.

Gaskiers A million pounds of fish

The whar f at Gaskiers is at the Pat, 53, has been fishing 20 Icrews at Gaskiers. foot of a steep, narrow, curved, summers, the longest of the three "We got a million pounds of fish and rocky road . Just three trap boatcrews operate from it. Still, it's short of winches. Beaton Sheppard " I had to go yesterday and buy A..oclate. Limited an old Chevy car to use as a Architect. winch." says fisherman Pa t Dob­ BEATON SHEPPARD, MRAIC bin when we meet him in Dob­ bin's Convenience store. " You are P.O. Box 6023 only hoisting 500Ibs. at a time so 325 Duckworth St. you want something fast for a St. John's, Newfoundland winch." Canada A1C 5X8 (709) 753-7132 fishing is going to change too "Last two years we've got the much. It might be one or two Portuguese up there in St. Mary's crew is added , but then again , all (Universal Fisheries) and you there is room for is three crews. couldn't ask for anything better Our wharf is only a little narrow than that. They take all the small place. Right now there 's a fellow fish as wen. If it wasn't for those asking to go, so they might guys I don't say I'd befishing. Be­ squeeze him in somehow- rather fore that I sent fish to O'Brie n's than see a man lose a few down the shore there and he'd hundred dollars ." give me 60per cent small, about Pat says fishing now is easy 2 cents on the pound. I couldn't compared to years ago when they handle tha t." I! had to head , gut and split it.

Pat Dobbin and hi. crew c.ught ~ 510,000 Ibs. ot tlsh last year . And he managed to sell It aii , thanks to Univer­ sal Fisheries at St. Mary '• . here last year. I got 510.000 lbs, tha t is our crew made half of it. Alot of fish for a small boat. Two of the other guys were just start­ ing off, first time last year. They done very good for new fishermen.' , Pat doesn 't predict much cha nge in the fishery for Gaskiers. " This is only a small ccmmu­ nity. Most of the people work in the fishplant. I fish and my wife G.sklera wharf, "only a little narrow place." but big enough fo r three cr ews runs this store. I wouldn't say the although It could use another winch.

Town clerk

The communities of Gaskiers and Point La Haye have a joint • council under mayor Joe KieUy, but unfortunately he was away when we visited. So we asked af­ ter the town clerk who usually has a community's facts and figures at his finger tips. Wewer­ en't disappointed. As is often the case in Newfoundland, the clerk turns out to be a woman­ proba bly because women tend to have more legible writing than me n which means council's minutes will at least bereadable. Gertie Kielly is behind the coun­ ter of her convenience store dis­ pensing pop, bars, and cigarettes on a sunny Easter Monday. ~ Gertie Klelly 01 Gaskiers Is town clerk and runs her own conve nience store . " There's 505people here in to­ She'. seen here wtlh husband Donald , a loreman at the l ishplant In 51.Mary·s. tal, that's the 1981 census. Weha­ ven't had anything from the 1986 ery. There 's four crews who oper- I processing. Everyone depends on one yet," says Gertie. " The main ate from here, three last summer. the fishery. There's nothing industry is the inshore trap fish- The fish goes to St. Mary 's for else-unless you have a job in St. DECKS AWASH - 27

J ohn' s and commute back and her husband Donald from Gaski­ creased taxes have little effect on forth . A few do, but it's an hour­ ers. Around 1970, Gerti e went to people's beer drinking and only a and-a-half run each way. If you work for the telephone compa ny marginal effect on smoking. had to be at work 7:300r8 in the in St. John's as an operator,then " There' s a good sale for morning you'd have to be up at 4 as a servi ce rep in the business cigarettes but more people are or 5." office. Then eight yea rs late r she rolling their own. There's a big­ Gaskiers has four stores, a gas got married. ger sale of tub tobacco." stati on, a community wharf and "My man lived here so [ ba d to At least property taxes are far a pasture. This year should see come back," says Gerti e who lower than in St. John's. There's around nine students employed traded long distance calls for long a poll tax of $40 a house and an under a CEIC program seedi ng hours and admits she occasional­ a dditional water and sewage tax and fencing the pasture. The sum­ ly looks back on the old days. of $72a year. There's also a busi­ mer should also see the commu­ " With the phone compan y you ness tax for the community's half nity ball extended under a federa l could leave all your worri es and dozen businesses. local Initiative Program gra nt troubles behind you when you Nobody can accuse Gertie of that will provide $35,000and give walked out the door." abusing her position with council. employment to six peop le. Toil and taxes are always with She even taxes herself. Gertie is from Poin t La Haye, us, a lthough Gertie says in-

Madonna Tobin

Madonna Tobin of Gaskiers is • landscaping her front yard. Neighbors are not sure where she gets the energy. She works the night shift at the fishplant in Trepassey. Her husband works the day shift although at present he's doing carpentry work there. " He' s a good worker, he does n't get laid off," she remarks. With Madonna is Doris, one of her five children (Madonna is one of 17)while the young ma n in sty l­ ish white gloves is Sea n J oseph who Doris describes as a " ha rd worker". "

Logs for the Winter

Stacking logs on a bright but cold spring day are Gaskiers resi­ dents (I. to r.) Joe Critch, who is ....." ., ho_ I tak ing welding at trades school ; his brother Barry who works at the fishplant ; and Basil St. Croix who has worked five years as a ca rpenters in the Nortwest Terri ­ tori es. ." 28 - DECKS AWASH FPI ~~ Newfoundlanders harvesting and producing top quality Seafood for the markets of the world.

~~ - People - Pride - Commitment

~~ - Quality Seafood Products

~.; - International Marketing Expertise Newfoundlanders working together to make the Newfoundland Fishery the No.1 success story at home and around the world. FISHERY PRODUCTS INTERNATIONAL From the icy, cold, Newfoundland waters. DECKS AWASH - 29

Point La Haye

Communitypasture

You know you 're driving through an agricultural commu­ nity when the traffic in front has four legs. In this case it's two cOWS chasing a calf downthe mid­ dle of the winding highway, ex­ cept this calf is riding in the back of a pickup. The wily owner has found a way of coaxing his cows to the next pasture. A cow and a calf equal seven sheep, at least that's the way government views animals tha t graze on comm unity pastures. "They call them animal units," saysMike Cahill of Point La Haye who is caretaker of the pasture at neighboring Gask iers. Pat Cahill : " After borning a lot of calves and lambs." "The money we get from dren his wife one of 15.He has a the pasture, it gives him 1itt~e ad­ governm ent each year depends broad friendly face and a perso- vantage with his own.sheep In the on the number of animal units nality that an ima ls like. His long winter and spring months. you have. Last year I had 600 neighbor, Pa t st.Croix, says Mike "The pastu,re's no ~ood befo r,~ sheep and lambs here, and 85 is "almost as good as a vet J une. There s nothing there. cows and calves. We got about himself". • Now if only somebody could get $10,000 whic h sounds a lot but it "I've pretty well worked with a grant to work on the weat her. doesn't go very far. Fertilizer animals all my life," Mike ad- " costs are $6,000to $7,000and then mits. "I'm afte r borning a lot of you have to get limestone and calves an d lambs. Someti mes a fencing materials." fellow might call you 12o'clock in The 200-acre pasture was start­ the night to go over to their cow Do you wa nt to ed in 1970 by the provincial or calf that's in a bit of trouble. department of forestry and Probably if they sent for a vet report , agriculture, but since 1980 it's from 51.John's hy the time he got been run as a private enterprise there it would be too late, so I go -an oil spill? with government financial as­ over and help out." sistance. It attracts livestock The pasture doesn't just give -a fish kill? from as far away as Bell Island people somewhere to graze their and Harbou r Main, and even animals. Last year the St. Mary 's -chemical dumping? some goats from Bay Roberts Center Development Associatio n which spent most of their time received a $35,000 grant to starta - pollution? ripping off bark and ruining hay-growing project, fencing and trees. As pastures go, it's fair ly seed ing about 12acres of past~. well used. Since most people are too busy In CAll "Some pastures only get $2,000 summer with the fishery to grow or $3,000," says Mike. "We didn't hay themselves, it will provide do toowell last year with 85cat­ welcome winter benefit to shee p tle. The year before that we had 112-2083 190." and cattle owners. Nobody gets rich on these Mike has 40 sheep of his own schemes but together they add up and, as he puts it, "only five chil­ to a living for Mike and help - rall collect dren". The younger ones are sit­ many others. So far the pasture ting in the corner grinning at has been awarded two federally­ - 24 hour service their father being tortured by the funded winter work projects. But Interviewer. He's one of 9 chil- even though Mike is caretaker of IL --' 30 - DECKS AWASH

Nowhere for sheep before June

The grass around Pat si . stuff. There was none of that feed, Croix's home in Point La Haye is what they call dairy ration. You neally cropped , thanks to the con­ couldn't get that the n." tinuous nibbling of 21new lambs, lbday Pa t usua lly sells his 16sheep, and one ram. It makes lambs at the end of the summer us wonder how long it can last. an d may get as much as $90each , "Nottoolong," says owner Pat but the money goes to feeding his 81. Croix, a lean man who looks sheep through the coming winter. tough like spring steel. "We have Most of Pat's customers slaugh­ this garden for culling hay and we ter their lambs. There is almost have nowhere else to put the no market for the wool although sheep until the community a firm in Prince Edward Island pasture opens in June. " will take it and turn it into knit­ There was a time when sheep ting wool. But any profit in that formed part of the rural economy is lost in mailing the wool to PEl of Newfoundland providing meat and back. for the table and wool that was Pat fished for around 12years, spun and woven into socks and he's also built houses , a nd at one mitts. Today sheep are less com ­ Pat St . Croix of Point La Haye . He'd time he owned a few cows. But mon, meat and woollen goods be­ have more sheep If th ere were some­ then he got heart tro uble and the ing readily available from stores. where to graze them. doctor sa id he shou ldn' t cut hay People also have Jess tolerance "But in the spring before the so he gave up the cows.Nowwhen for animals left to roam through pasture opens you haven't got the he needs hay for his sheep he gets communities foraging for food, feed to give them after rearing somebody else to cut it. He has a especially when they devour prize them all winter, and hay is hard neighbor with 30 or 40 sheep, too. pansies or petunias. Years ago to get:' "1 wouldn't want to keep more sheep wore wooden yokes that Pat buys winter feed in 8O-1b. sheep without someplace to keep prevented them passing through bags . It costs aro und $40 for one them in the spring of the year. It's fences into people's gardens, At bag which las ts his 17 sheep four a pity. There 'd bea good dollar in that lime Pat kept sheep on the days . The SI. Mary's Bay Center them if you could." grassy hillocks by the ocean but Developm ent Association does today there's too much motor have plans for producing hay on 1.------, traffic to let sheep roam safely , its pastu rela nd, which may im­ which is why Pat has them in his prove things. " EVERYTHING garden. "Thirt y years ago you could get FOR "There was more sheep on this $3 or $4 a sheep and you wanted THE INSHORE shore 30 years ago than there are a good lamb to get $5, but then in SI. Mary's Bay altogether with $5 you could buy enough to FISHERY" now," recalls Pat. rear them for the winter, oats and We co ntinue to import and distrib ute the best " inshore" fishing eq uipme nt from all over the world. .__\

BAY BULLS TRADII& CO. LTD. 51 Old Pennyw ell Road Coll"l1Oll)5_"'lo8 (Sl. .IoIwI"1 (709) X)O.-:!929 IS.~ 8....1 Or_.,...01_"'_~

""oug/'IOYlNA.D---.,..'"'*"'~L.A8R.o.DOA DECKS AWASH - 31

Peter 81. Croix

Peter 51.Croix of Point La Haye with his son Billy. Peter works on deep-sea trawlers. Awhile hack while dragging around 170miles offshore, he brought up a small plate from the ocean bottom . It's crescent shaped, about seven inches long with blue flowers and bears a red nag with a white star. It could possibly have belonged to a White Star Line ship such as the Titanic. The back of the plate has the words, "Stonier and Co., Liverpool." II

St. Mary's

Father Joseph Barbour

The Roman Catholic parish of 51.Mary's extends from Mall Bay to Gaskiers comprising around 400families. The inhabitants are 98 per cent Catholic and with scarcely any competing faiths one might imagine Father Joseph Barbour, parish priest at St. Mary 's, to bein an enviable posi­ tion. Father Barbour just smiles and shakes his head . "No. sometimes being in con ­ tact with other faiths can be a very enriching experience," he says . " It can be very helpful to see haw other people are address­ ing problems similar to what I'm faced with ." Not that Father Barbour's par­ htMr Joseph Barbour ish seems beset with economic in the past to find work will now in Newfoundland. There's about problems. In recent years it has be abl e to stay ," he says ." I came 11 crews between Gaskiers and been doing fairly well with a good here in 1984and a number of peo­ Mall Bay. There were more, of inshore fishery and a local fish­ ple had discontinued the fishery course, but it's extremely expen­ plant that lakes all the fish men because they had nowhere to di­ sive for someone to get back in can catch as wen as supplying spose of their catch, As much as the fishery now." almost year-round plant work. 40000 lbs. was dumped. But now Father Barbour aJso sees hope "I think the plant will have an the plant is under new ownership for future employment in the enrichening effect in time be­ and last year we had one of the salmon farm experiments at cause men who had to moveaway most prosperous inshore fisberies nearby Path End. 32 - DECKS AWASH

"Of course, salmon grow s low­ are shown that if things go wrong Very few people who marry don't ly," he notes . "You can 't get in a marriage, divorce is a way have a home that isn't already salmon ready for the platter in out. That can beinsidious. It may built. This isn't just economic, it's three months. But I'm hoping the be that people are not going to sensible and indicates planning salmon experiment will be the work so hard to hold a marriage has been done." tiny acorn from which the great together when they see divorce as But perhaps his greatest praise oak tree grows. " a solution." is for the local childre n. Father Barbour is from New­ Despite Father Barbour's "I never cease to be amazed by town, Bonavista Bay, and prior to fears, there still seems much to the behavior of the children in St. his present appointment was at be admired in the people of 51. Mary's. The ma nnerly way they the Basilica in St. John's. He's Mary's, as he explains. ta ke refreshme nts at the parish part English and a somewhat "Love is the highest fonn of hu­ hall and the way in which they smaller part French, (a grand­ man activity and a wedding is a greet you when you visit their mother hailed from St. Pierre) joyful day. You do see a much homes. It must be the parents and he says he has saltwater in more mature view of marriage who pour the ir val ues into these his hlood but confesses that if he here than you do in the city and children. I hope they never lose wakes early on a summer morn­ there's great preparation for it. them ." ing he's more likely to make tea and go hack to bed with a good book than go fishing. But perhaps FOR AU his greatest interest is in people. Somebody once suggested to Father Barbour that it would be RENOVATIONS, nice if the Church didn't have to MAJOR resort to bingo and garden parties to raise money . He disagreed. PROJECTS, "For many hardworking wom­ ANI NEW HOMES en, bingo is their only relaxation. I wouldo't take that away from them even if the Church didn 't BULDING. need money . There's a lot of so­ cial energy involved when people gather together. There's also an J~~~~~~~~~~~~~ unfortunatenature for peoplepropensity to beincriticalhuman IL J abo ut others, but in social gather­ ings they tend to overlook each other's faults. When people don't I r------....., turn up at these gatherings, or at Church, I feel deprived of their pres ence." Unfortunately, socializing has ~.. in recent years taken second place to watching television An kteal glftl which does more than destroy hu­ Bound copies * of DECKS AWASH containing the J986 issues of the man contact. It offers examples magazine are available for $20. If you would like to buy B copy, please of lifestyles that Father Barbour fill in the form below, enclose a cheque or money order payable to feels are at times questionable. Memorial University and send to: "For young people there's a DECKS AWASH peer pressure put on them by TV Extension Service Memorl.1University of Newfoundl.nd to emulate the behavior they see St. John's , NF A rc SS7 there. They go out into the world , NAME _ perhaps to the university thinking they have learned nothing here, ADDRESS _ shedding everything like a lobster shedding its shell, copying a style POSTAL COD"E, _ they've seen on TV. 1 would sug­ AMOUNT ENCLOSED $ -,-,- _ gest they take more with them • Li mited number ayallable than they realize. A notification of your gift will be sen t recipients . "There's little divorce here, but A limited number of J985 bound copies are available at a reduced pric6 it's creeping in like a mist or fog. of $J5, first-eome, first-served. People are watcbing TV and they IL._--' --' ~ I OECKS AWASH - 33

A marvel at mechanics

The sun is shining brightl y and Matt took a crash course in navi gation and sailed the the wind blowing strongly ­ schooner for a year. He might unlimited fresh air one resident have sailed her longer if he hadn't called it-as we hammer on Matt been diverted to a lumber camp Yetman's door at St. Mary 's. on Salmonier Line while walking Straining our ears to hear beyond from the railway to his home. He the blustering wind howling past fell in with some St. John's men chimneys and humming through I - ...... _~ who suggested he should try for phone wires we hear a faint voice. a job cutting pit props. Deciding "Come in! " he would, he walked to the camp Matt Yetman, 76, is inside sea t­ the next day but found his way to ed an front of an old Singer sew­ blocked by a pond. The others had ing machine, his polished black crossed by canoe, so he impro­ shoe driving the tr eadle at vised a raft from branc hes and breakneck speed, his eyes alight punted across. At the camp he and his face a ma sk of pleasur a­ met manager Joseph Curran ble preoccupation as he lays Ma" Yetman, poet and repalnnan .IlIt'. from Gamba. stitches on a piece of cloth. mechanical and moves . he can proba­ " I'm a shut-in . I'm fixing this " How did you get here?" asked bly fix It. Joe. for a fellow on the South Shore," keel, launching the as-ton vessel " I walked most of it," replied he explains , peering over his the following6th ofJ une and took Matt. glasses . "She was mak ing a mess her fishing the 6th of J uly. She " Yes, but how did you come when she come, and now I'm get­ was called the Maryand RUa Yel­ across the pond? I hope you didn't ting a fine stitch on her." man and sailed until 1951. take the men 's boat." Ma tt has a way with "We cut everything with the ex­ "Oh , no sir. I've got my own machiner y. He's been mechan ic, ception of the spars .We had Com­ millwright, and mining engineer, boat. " mission of Governme nt at the Joe wouldn't make a decision installed turbines and repaired time and they helped us get the immediately about hiring Matt gravel crushers. He can give an iron work and gave us sails and but tookhis name then decided to account of every year of his long rigging-we didn't ha ve any accompany him back to his life-probably every month too. money to buy sails ." " boat". They reached the pond " I never had any education. tha t's why I had lots of room up here to put my own stuff in," he says pointing a finger to his head . When he was 10. Matt went fish­ ing with his father, William Joseph, and received a half share But it seemed he was doing the .....:..:.l work of three men so in 1926. aged 15, he left to go road building. The Carnell M emorial Chapel ClaSSIC dignity Home-like atmosphere Fishing was good in 1928 and 1929 Every lacility has been designed lor the so he stayed home during the convenience of those we serve summer but went rail roading in the fall, laying heavy rail from Within reach of everyo ne Millertown Junction to South We take pride in providing a Brook. When the fishery failed in range 01 services that any family can afford . the early 19305 he and his four brothers bum a schooner. Serving all faith s "[ learned how to draft and Our funeral service is thoughtful and meticulous in each detail made a model. It was one inch to the footand it was 60inches long. We'd sail her across the pond and my youngest brother used to go CARNELL'S over on her. [ have her yet." The brothers cut and stockpiled FUNERAL HOME lumber for a few years then on Freshwater Road, St. Joh n's, Nfld .Phon e 722·2730 Decemher8th,1934, they laid the I L------'I 34 - DECKS AWASH

and Joe looked around for the boat. "I pointed at a few little slicks lied together and he said , 'You didn 't come across on that.' " I sai d I'm not wet and I'm not St. Peter. He looked at me. 'What lime do you want to go to work ?' .. Matt cut wood for two weeks, gra duated to building sleds and fina lly the next summer was given the job of building a mill. " I put in the turbine and most of the machinery single-handed. I was strong then ." With his new skills he worked at Gra nd Falls in 1937help ing build 51. Mary 's. Well spaced houses In 8 picturesque setting. the penstock for the mill. In 1938 he went home and set up a sma ll mec ha nic work at St. John's in 1b go and visit friends, they live pushbench sawmill at Path End. 1952. He went to Goose Bay but on PEL The price of success was ulcers found it dominated by French­ I land ed at Wood Island and which he got in 1939,the year war speaking people although he did then proceeded west, broke out. learn to operate a cra ne and pull And I ca n never say...." "We were all going in the navy, 6O-ft.tree s out of the ground. In We sit back and enjoy. It's not all the boys here being boat men, 1954he was in Gree nland scrap­ every day we get a poem and a but the navy never came to sign ping a bea ched oil tanker when story delivered to us at the same us up. The first that came was the heavy anchor chain locker he time. this man Joseph Curran I'd was cutting colla pse d and worked for at Salmonier line. He crushed his leg. An excellent tri ed to get me to go to Scotland. American surgeon was on hand He said there was 72 sawmills to but could not repa ir Matt 's leg. build. I told him I was going in the " They had the pins but not the nav y and he said he'd do what he plate to fix my leg, so they set me could to stop me. So I said OK, I'd down in St. Jo hn's and put a bit go. He said: of a cast on it. It was two yea rs 'Good. With you coming along before I could walk." v Sales the job's half done now." Tha t was 33 years ago. This Matt leit with the first drait, year Matt finally had his leg fixed worked zc-hour days building and properly with a 15 mm wedge of v Service m a intaining m ills. He'd be bone rem oved. He's still recover­ re pairing a mill one night and be ing which is why he's a shut -in v Installation 100miles away fixing another the now, but he expects to beback at next morning. work. After all, with his un­ CALL " I slept more nights on the repaired leg he worked until 1971, moors of Scotland...like a gypsy. buildi ng road s and dam s. PARDY'S TIRE & 1 were wore out after four years." "My leg gave out in 1971 so I INDUSTRIAL LTO. Matt was sent back to New­ came back and fished and did foundland, ostensibly to recuper­ bette r in two months than I did in ate but also to recruit more men eight months at construction. I 722-6644 for Scottish mills. But he ran into used togo way out in a sma ll open a wall of benign bureaucracy. He boat where the longliners go. I AREAS OUTSIDE OF couldn't get official help to still fish ." recruit volunteers and nobody A lack of schooling doesn 't ST. JOHN'S seemed keen to send him back to see m to have held Matt back. NO CHARGE war-time Europe. When an He's filled with useful knowledge, DIAL , ·800·563·7676 honorable discharge arrived has an exce llent memory and from Britain he gave up fighting even writes poetry. Matt begins to FIRESTONE STORE Hitler and went fishing. recite in a clea r res onant voice : 77 KENMOUNT RD. There followed a period of lead "I received an invitation on the mining in Placentia and auto last day of July, DECKS AWASH - 35

Universal Fisheries

The trap fishery in 81. Mary 's Bay has been good the last two years, but fishermen are also quick to credit Universal Fisher ­ ies plant in St. Mary 's for their part in buying the fish. Where many plants are interested only in larger fish, 18 inches and up (resulting sometimes in fisher­ men's dumping a quarter or more of their catch) Universal has been buying everything the fishermen catch. " I think insomeplants smaller fish aren't wanted because they can 't get the overall volume they want. Small fish slow things down . But with the new machinery we have (or small fish "Yleld is everything." Wayne Waterman, plant rn8tWtgerlit Universal FIsheries, we can get better yields," ex­ ties. So far the plant has been closed for repairs and alterations . plains plant manager Wayne operating on one and a half shifts But even in that short time, he Waterman. with 100to 120people a shift, but made improvements. Universal Fisheries is a joint Wayne hopes to improve that. " I pinpointedsome bottlenecks, Portu guese-Newfoundland "We have one or two bottle- got a new machine in and we put operation- the company also has necks . Like the wharf needs ex- through 15,000to 20,000Ibs. more plants at nearby Riverhead and tending , we need another hoist fish per day with the same num­ at Fenneuse. The St. Mary's and more ice," he says." Right ber of workers ." plant , originally built for crab nowfishermen have to wait hours Daily throughput at the plant processing, was previously oper­ to unload. That wastes the fisher- varies with the species . For cod ated by Quinlan Brothers before man 's time and it's not good for bought in the round, it's around being taken over by Universal in us to have the fish waiting." 200,000Ibs., but the real empha- 1985. The company hopes to oper­ Wayne is keenly interested in sis is on quality and in particu lar, ate year round, processing cod, plant efficiency and is from Fogo yield-the amount of final caplin, flounder, herring, had ­ where he was in charge of product obtained. At the 16hand­ dock, mackerel, and squid. This productionsupervision and incen- filleting stations, electronic should produce full-time jobs for tive. He came to St. Mary's in scales weigh in the fish and weigh people in an area desperately March and saw the plant in oper- out the fillets. short of employment opportuni- ation only two weeks before it "Quality and yield can make or break a company," says Wayne. " Say you had tOO Ibs. of turbot. You'd probably get 36 Ibs from that for market. But if you were down to 35lbs . that could mean a loss and the higher the market price of fish the bigger the Joss." A Joss of one per cent may not sound like much, but in a plant capable of processing a million pounds of fish a week, one per cent represents 10,000 Ibs. of lost product and tens of thousands of lost dollars. " Operating a fish plant is like playing chess or checkers. If you make a wrong move you can Jose the game. If you buy too much fish, you can't process it. You might bring in too few people on 36 - DECKS AWASH a given day, or people's perfor­ practice and there is a tendency ably Wayne's single biggest mance varies-up one day and for people to do plant work one headache. This spring the plant down the next-whichcould be fa­ year and try something else was fortunate, it got Russian­ tigue or the quality of the fish. I another, which involves training caught frozen haddock 10process, want to set up an incentive sys­ a replacement. Wayne points to as part of the resource short plant tem where a quality factor is built the Japanese example. program allocation . in. That is, when the fish isn't so "The rea son they are so ern ­ Wayne is single. He's not sure good the people wouldn't be ex­ cient is because peoplestay in the when he'll ever have time to get pected 10process so much." same job year in and year out. married. Even when he sleeps he From what Wayne says, Ilsh Our problem is the work force dreams of fish. As we Ialk the process ing is more than just cut­ turns over so fast. People move in walls ring with the pounding of ting up fish, and he agrees. and out all the time." jack hammers. Wayne waves a "Fishplant work has always Still, there may be signs of this hand. been thought ofas a low-classjob. changing for despite a good fish­ "Every plant needs some kind It shouldn't be. It requires a ery at St. Mary's in recent years of renovation every year. But we skilled person, more so because not everybody is returning to his could be doing herring in a few you are working with a perisha­ boat. One reaso n is fear of Joss of weeks. Pickling and freezing the ble product. " seniority. In fact, there seem tobe herring and freezing the roe.The This leads to the question of more people working in the plant main thing is to keep open as long training . Most plants train new than fishing. St. Mary's itself has as we can ." workers on the job which means onJyone full-timecrew, Gaskiers­ This should be good news for a loss of yield until the person Point La Haye has around three, people in St. Mary's Bay. gets up to speed . Also short sea­ as does St. Vincent's. Getting sons allow people to get out of suf£icient £ishyear round is prob-

Japanese cod traps help the Bowens

Robert, John, Eugene, and Ig­ natius Bowen are four weather­ beaten brothers whofish from St. Mary 's in a 35-fl. fiberglass trap boat. They are the only crew operating from St. Mary's, which seems surprising as it has a good har bor and the area fish plant. But as John and Robert explain, S1. Mary's was never exactly a fishing community. Most people couldn't make enough from fish 10 stay at it all year. But that hasn't slopped other people from coming to fish from St. Mary 's. "Last year there were 90 seiners here from all over New­ foundland for the cap lin,' says J John. Robert and John Bowen. Japan ese cod traps at $10,000 apiece , but twic e Which might lead you 10think a. effective, 100. it's a good place 10fish. "We must have the biggest and 60 feet deep which can hold "Lord, no! " says Robe rt. place forseas on the Island," says captive up 1050,000Ibs. of fish. " You've got togo miles and miles John . ' Unlike traditional cod traps out in the Bay. The Gaskiers This didn't stop the Bowen where the fish sometimes escape, Shoals, St. Vincent's, St. Shotts. brothers from landing close to these traps hold fish and keep It's quite a distance. " half a million pounds of fish last them alive. With St. Sholls around 40 year. But they had 10 resort 10 "The regular traps are cheaper kilometres away it is a great dis­ some expensive technology to do and easier 10handle and all right tance. Adddense fog,high winds, it. They use four Japanese style if you go 10them twice a day. but and tumult uous seas-which cod traps which at $10,000apiece you've got 10be handy 10them. someti mes occur all at the same are twice the cost of a regular Withthese Japanese type youcan time-and you have an idea of the trap . The main partof the trap is leave them for days if the weather difficulties. a box-shaped net 72 feet square is bad-that's the main reason for DECKS AWASH - 37

~ving them ." 'eometimes the traps catch larger species, like whales. "They go right in through the trap and out the other side, " re­ marks Robert. "That's why a lot of people gave up traps." The men recall there were talks of a compensation program and that government officials even performed surveys of damaged gear, but the fishermen say they didn 't get a cent. Making and repairing traps that use 70 fathoms of net apiece can take months. It's a lot of work to prosecute a relatively short fishing season that leaves little free time even to cut firewood. Community wharl at St. Mary·s. Little wonder that high on most fishermen's wish list is a longer cents a pound for round fish , the ably pay $5," says Robert. fishing season to extend the time same price they received in 1980. Yet the Bowens have read in the that money is coming into the Fortunately, unlike before, there 's Atlantic Fisherman about Nova household. no limit to the size of fish. Previ­ Scotia fishermen getting as high " When you get the fish you for­ ously the Bowens dumped as 72 cents a pound. get about the hard work" says smaller fish, sometimes 5,000lbs. "That's discrimination. Some­ John. " You' re always hoping for a day. one is making a profit but it's not a good summer and a good price. "Not what you'd call small fish the fishermen," says John. "You The price is the thing." either. You'd pick up the same can put that in your article... " Last year the men_ got 141-2 size at the supermarket and prob- So we did. 11

The way to stay: start your own business

Neville 's Restaurant and Take­ Out is in the centre of St. Mary's on the main highway opposite Don Gibbons Service station. Its midday when we drop in, but the restaurant isn't operating and neither is the take-out. Asales rep with an amazed look is listening to owner Don Neville ten him meals are available at Trepassey, 60 kms away, or at Holyrood which is even farther. Don turns to us. He's 28 with black hair probably inherited from a French ancestor although the Nevilles originally came from England. He looks like an easy­ going fellow with a ready smile and a disposition that would be Don Neville. Long hours and a sense of humor. hard to rile. Passing restaurant with plastic pipes , three-prong "That looks like Cree syllab­ trade is thin so Don has decided plugs , a pajama bag shaped like ics," he says. to concentrate on selling grocer­ an Australian koala bear and half "It's shorthand," we reply. ies, electrical and plumbing sup­ a dozen Star Wars light sabres. " You read Cree?" plies. On the shelf are 8-lb. cans We take in the surroundings and "Used to," says Don. HI once of marmalade (only $2.99, ideal start making notes. Don leans taught English to Cree Indians in for large families) sharingspace over the counter to look. Manitoba. It's a simple tanguage, 38 - DECKS AWASH few tenses, guttural to speak ." This sounds interesting and Don explains . "I went through a stage when I just travelled . It started when I was 16,I finished school and took off, went down to Mexico for a look and learned some Spanish. Then 1 went to the States but I didn't like that. Tho rough. So [ came home, went to university and got a teaching degree until a job opportunity came along teaching Grade 9 math in Manito­ ba. Pay your own way, place to stay, job waiting for you. But when I got to Winnipeg the job was already taken. The only job available was at Split Lake, actu­ ally a fork in the Nelson River. There were five white people and say a dark side, to Don Neville's but not quite. There 's something 2,000Cree indians. I lasted nine business. In another room, be­ of the pony express rider about months." yondthe counter where the tooth­ Don although he may not have Donreturned to Newfoundland, destroying candy bars and the qualified for the job in the 1860s. worked for the Diabetic Associa­ soul-destroying videos are kept, The Pony Express advertisement tion as a camp director then lurk two pool tables and a dozen ran , "Wanted, small, light men, served two years with the Heart pinball machines . But Don keeps preferabl y orphans , whocan ride Foundation visiting schools and them under close rein. Whilehe'll fast." Donhas pare nts. Still, each teaching children to jump rope as sell candy any time of the day or night around 11, Don drives to exercise for their hearts before night the amusements are open Whitbourne to pick up the mail deciding to go into business for only from 7 to 9 p.m . on for five local post offices. He sel­ himself. Todayselling pop,chips , schooldays . dom sees his bed before 4 a.m. and candy bars he speculates that "Gives the kids time to do their "I used tobe at the fish too, part in 10years time he may have to homework first and gets them time, but two hours sleep a night start teaching his customers to home before their parents are be­ wasn't enough." jump rope again to keep them ginning to get worried," he ex­ For most people a 12-hour alive. plains. workday would be more than "If you want to get a good job One might think that would be enough, but as Don says, he's in you've got to leave the province or the extent of the Nevillebusiness, business for himself. " start your own. That's the choice I,:.:.:..:::.:..::..:...... :.:..::..:..:..:..--:..:....:...------..::;I and I'd prefer to stay home, so I started this three years ago. It's a kind of a partnership. Some­ body else owns the building and I own the stock. " While he speaks. a young man ~ comes into the store, selects some Wilding limited groceries and nods to Don as he leaves without paying. Specializing in Fish Processing Equipment "My brother," explains Don. A young woman comes in, col­ Box 51, Bay Bulls, Newfoundland AOA reo lects an armful of provisions and Telephone (709) 334·3303 • Telex 016-3204 leaves with scarcely a word. "Fiancee," says Don. MACHINE WORK Other people come and go, ap­ parently all relatives for the bus­ ALUMINUM AND STEEL FABRICA TlON iness seems entirely self-operating. All Don has to do AND is open the door. "Youcould say it's a family af­ WELDING REPAIR SERVICES fair," he quips. There's another side, one could IL --'I DECKS AWASH _ 39

Nurturing nature

The growth of communities, won't get very much done." like the growth of trees, goes on He's been mayor of St. Mary's largely unseen. From small be­ since 1983. Last year council ginnings big things grow, started paving the roads, is in the (although how a large tree grows process of installing a new water in thin soil nouri shed by an occa­ system, and will be starting work sional downpour rem ains a mys­ on a sewage system this year­ tery to most of us). We take the all with taxes of only $50 a year existence of rural Newfoundland from a community of just 700 in­ communities largely for granted. habitants and ISOhomes . They are just there. But what "We try to avail of job creation keeps them going? In physics . money to do it. That way we don't there is a thing called the law of have to impose higher taxes." entropy which in essence says the He's also quick to point out that whole universe is running down. S1. Mary 's is not a welfare town. e.g., len alone, everything turns Councilapplied successfuly to the to chaos-just look in your sock department of social services for drawer or your clothes closet for Sylvester VetR\fln a beautification scheme but there examples. What keeps rural New­ "Turn it off," he says, finally . are too few welfare recipients in foundland (rom chaos is a quiet The men obey and the life-giving the area to do the project. army of people who care, among rush of water ceases. In the si­ As development co-ordinator them local organizations like lence nobody speaks as long Sylvester is employed by the 51. town councils and development minutes pass. Then a voice pipes Mary 's Bay Center Development associations. At St. Mary's we up. Association, a volunteer organi­ meet a man who is both mayor " It 's OK! We've found the zation with a board of 20, and 103 and local development associa­ problem. There's a leak in the members. It covers the four in­ tion co-ordinator, pump." And with that the men corporated communities from Sylvester Yetman,38,had been start to replace a faulty seal. Mall Bay to Gaskiers, ahout t700 described to us as a local leading Before Sylvester can be con­ people. The Association receives light. We find him one morning fronted with another problem, we funding from the Department of trying to throw light into the dark comer him while he comman­ Rural, Agricultural and Northern pumphouse of the experimental deers somebody's pickup for a Development (RAND>, $26,500 salmon farm at Path End. The meeting room. He's a large man annually, from which it tries to pump is not functioning well but with a full head of dark hair un­ pay Sylvester's salary, the costs turning it orr means the fish may touched by the grey hairs that of his office and travel. die. Somebody ha s to make a de­ worry is supposed to bring. "No volunteer could be in­ cis ion. Sylvester ponders the "Sure I worry," he says. "If you volved in this on a day-to-day ba­ problem. don't worry about things you sis, so the Association tells me what it wants done and I catry it out, then I keep them abreast of developments," Sylvester ex­ plains, The experimental salmon farm is the biggest project since the As­ sociation was formed in 1979. Back then, members collected temperature data from the pond and passed them along to govern­ ment in the hope that some kind of commercial fishery would be developed. "We felt the pond had potential. Every fish in the ocean swims in it." Whenthe Association heard the provincial department of fisher­ ies planned to put in a fish cage, Experimental ..Imon f.rm.t p.u, End showing recentty completed newtanb. it insisted local people should be 40 - DECKS AWASH I involved. The result led to the ex- nasty habit of fizzling out. really concerned because it's uk perimental fish farm (see follow-" There's a lot we don't know end of the 19M Rural Develop­ ing article), This year the St. about ," admits Sylvester." We ment Subsi diary Agreement Mary 's Bay Center Development don't want to get people excited . signed between the federal and Association has joined forces with We're taking this one step at a provincial governm ents. Ifit isn't the Southern Avalon Develop- time. If it works out, fine. If it renewed, there 'll be no money. ment Association to have a feasi- doesn't, we ca n say we tried ." Without funding, everything will bility study performed by Otter The development association fall apart. Not just us, but all the Ferry Salmon Service of SCotland volunteers are certainl y investing development associations across to see whether the salmon experi- a lot of care and concern in the the pr ovince with long-term ment has the potential for com- projec t. On the two occasions we projects." mercial success. They would like visited it was like the maternity Fledgling projects are vulner­ one day to produce 100tonnes of ward of a hospital with anxious able. Little wonder Sylvester is salmon for market each year,Syl- athers pacing nervously about. concerned. vester is cautiou sly opti B Svl ster has worr-ies from "That's my baby there, " be and perhaps even a little super- I another direc tion. says, nodding towards the salmon stitious. Projects tha t get a lot of "This projec t has been ma inly tanks. "I want tosee it go right." extravagant publicity have a funded by RAND. This year I'm I!I

Path End

Salmon farming

Holyrood Pond is arou nd 20 the local development white plywoodbuilding next door. miles long and less than a mile assoc iation-to be the site of a n There, a similar l8-It. diameter wide. If it were not for a bar experimental salmon farm . tank, three feet deep contains 282 across its mouth, the pond might At Path End, we squelch a long salmon swimming determinedly be considered a deep ocean inlet. a mud path by the cold mist­ against the current of water As things stand, the inlet is a pond covered pond to a temporary pumped in from the pond. Custo­ aro und 70 per cent of the year wood and plastic shelter.Inside dian Maurice St. Croix , 38, ap­ contri buted to by various rivers four men under forem an Dave pears. He has a paternal pride in that make for brackish (about Burke are installing two tanks, these fish, having nurtured them two-thirds sa lt) water that curved sections of corrugated from 37-gra m smolt to their salmon love. Which is why the steel bolted together in larg e present 150-to l2()()..gram size. small community of Path End rings and plugged with autom o­ " They' ve been in here 10 near the head of the lake was tive windshield seal to prevent months," explains Maurice. chosen by the provincial govern­ leaks. These are an expansion of "They're wild stock from the Ex­ ment with some prodding from the existing facility housed in a ploits River in Bishops Falls. We hope to take the little fellows to grow them into big fellows then sell them." Although of similar age, the fish vary in size depending on when they started to feed on the caplin pellets they are given. Those that start early develop appetites that soon make them many times larger than their slower companions. For this rea ­ son the extension of the ex­ perimen tal fa r m includes a smaller 6-ft. tank for the small smolt. "The small ones can starve be­ cause they're intimidated by the big fish," says Maurice. " By put­ ting them in their owntank, hope-­ Custodian IbuI1ce St. Croix with fOf'efNln Dave Burke at Path End expertme~ tal salmon larm . When the water stopped the community turned out wit h fully they will catch up with the buckets. big fellows." DECKS AWASH - 41

Maurice is an employee of the provincial Department of Fisher­ ies whotogether with the Depart­ ment of Rural, Agricultural and Northern Development (RAND), have financed this project. Maurice has been a permanent employee t8months but he,the lo­ cal development association , and many individuals put in months of voluntary work to get the project going. "There was great public in­ volvement," recalls Maurice. "We started in 1984 collecting smolt from our local river. Allwe had to do was mention we were going up to the head of the pond smolling and everybody wanted Con'ugated ateeland wIndshield caulking. Kevin Butler, Michael Ryan, Michael to come. We went out with nets Dobbin, and Norman St. Croix extending the salmon farm . but that wasn't toosuccessful. So "Your average full-grown we caught 330all with hook and fish. I think every house on the road must have sent at least one salmon is 7 lbs. and you make a line. They were from 4to 6 inches, dollar a pound for everyone that it was a pretty small hook and person," remarks Maurice. The farm that startedas an ex­ survives. With 50 tanks we could youhad tobe careful taking it out. produce 100tonsofsalmon a year Nobody was paid, although the periment looks promising . The expansion being built will more that wouldcreate8 to 10full-time development association picked than double capacity and is tobe jobs plus some part-time jobs up the tab for the meals. " during harvesting. We've had They placed the fish in a stocked with fish from the new hatchery at Bay D'Espoir, visitors from Scotland and Nor­ IJ, -inch mesh cage and sub­ way who don't see why it can 't be merged it in the pond but ice "domeslicated".fish with a higher chance ~f survival. done." ruined this early experiment. Maurice looks forward tothe day With people like Maurice and Next they erected a building and when they may have 50or more his friends, it likely will be done. circular tank under a $32,000 grant from RAND, and in 1985 even bigger tanks. stocked it with fish from the Ex­ ploits River. But one night the " pump that refresbes the tank with pond water failed and the entire batch died from lack of oxygen. The men tried again, installing an alarm on the pump and restock­ HIIIIYEY ing once more with Exploits River fish. They almost lost SERVING THE FISHING INDUSTRY them, too. IN NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR Around 8 another night, the in­ take pipe check valve jammed. FISHERY SALT It's located 100feet down in the cold depths of the pond and it be­ HIGH QUALITY SOLAI\ SALT BAGS AND BULK gan to drain the fish tank. Prices quoted are FOB Argentia and 51. John's Maurice phonedfor a diver,but in or the meantime he had to save the Delivered to the customer's door anywhere in fish. He phoned four or five men and asked them tobring buckets. Newfoundland and Labrador Instead of five, 20men turned up and began the arduous task of HARVEY TRANSPORTATION LIMITED lUgging five-gallon buckets of SUGAR LOAF RD., ST. JOHN'S water the 100feel between pond SUITE 2000, FORT WILLIAM BUILDING, FACTORY LANE and tank. It was 3 a.m. before sr, JOHN'S. NEWFOUNDLAND. CANADA Bulldi~ at. Argentl, Harvey Industrial Estate. divers had made repairs and the Phone 227-5603 Torbay Road. St. John'. men could go home. Telex 016-3109 Phone 578-4Tl2 "The men definitely saved the Telex 016-4907 42 - DECKS AWASH I

Riverhead /

Time out for saltfish

The fishplant on a small spit of months, but this year we're hop­ land below the highway in River­ ing for 8-10months." head is the saltfish arm of Simon is the only one in his fa­ Universal Fisheries Limited-a mily involved in the fishery, company jointly owned and oper­ although his three boysworked in ated by Portuguese and New­ the fishery when they were foundland businessmen. Before young. Now they 're all working in the plant began operation in 1984, St. John's, and all eight girls have a number of Portuguese fisher­ left home-four are married and men had a building on the far side one is in Germany with the of the community. Newfoundland Armed Forces. Quick Freeze of Witless Bay oper­ " Three of my brothers are still ated the existing plant until it sold here in Riverhead, and most lo­ off its fish busin ess interests. cal people are fishing or work in Simon Corcoran, 57, formerly the fishplants," Simon explains. the manager of the Newfound­ Simon Corcoran "It's mostly cod and flounder, and land Quick Freeze operation, has caplin if they come in, but no one been the Riverhead plant " I' ve been involved in running is left in the saJmon fishery and manager since the saltfish oper­ fishplants since 1971, both here there are no lobsters worth talk­ a tion sta rted. There is an ice and at Admiral's Beach," says Si­ ing about. There are four Jon­ machin e for holding purposes up­ mon as he supervises the ongoing gliners here the rest are open sta irs in the plant where the fish work to get the plant ready for boats. Everyone has traps-the a re sa lted and shipped to the operation." Some of the original longliners go purse seining for Ca nadian Saltfi sh Corporation in employees stayed on, but this has caplin before the trap season, and St. John's who take care of the always been a seasonal plant. In giBnetting after it's over. There marketing. 1986, we only operated four haven't been any herring for 10 years, but there's a season this spring, and we're expecting the squid to come in this year." Simon is ready for the start of MUIR'S MARBLE the season which is not too far away. "We're opening in the middle of WORKS LIMITED May," he tells us." We salt the 703 TOPSAIL ROAD fish and ship it to the Canadian Saltfish Corporation in St. John's. ESTABLISHED 1842 We're hoping to handle 200,000 split fish a day for six to eight FINEST QUALITY GRANITE weeks-nearly all trapfish. We take fish over 16"-the smaJler AND MARBLE MONUMENTS fish go to St. Mary 's. The compa­ ny has three boats in Fermeuse, but most of the fish is bought FREE CATALOGUE ON REQUEST from local fishermen. "All our empJoyees have been local, although we may need up to 20per cent from outside the com­ POSTAL ADDRESS: munity this year because the St. BOX 596 Mary 's plant will take up most of the workers-it operates two MOUNT PEARL shifts full time. Some people A1N 2W4 won't want to payout the gas ' TEL. : 368-5697 money-it cuts down on your wages ." nil DECKS AWASH - 43

Round and about in Riverhead 44 - DECKS AWASH

Neither snow, nor rain, nor gloom of night...

For 43 years sta rting in 1937, apart from a short break duri ng the Second World Wa r, Steve Critch ran his taxi rout e from 51. Mary 's Bay in all weather and road conditions. Born in St. Mary's, Steve, who retired three yea rs ago, started with the Vail's taxi business when a dr iver left. Jack Vail had the only other taxi for 40-0ddyears, and there were three when Steve had his own taxi and Jack's son ran one. For the last 25 years Steve has lived in Riverhead where he met his wife. His first car was a Ford , but he drove all Dodges alter that, ex­ cept for some Volkswagon buses which had lots of room for pas­ sengers and luggage but little power. Steve CrUch "I had most of the vehicles for about a year-and-a-half on average-you traded the ca rs in," hours to get to St. John 's, but it didn 't get back until 4 o'clock on Steve explains. .'The fares were might take four days to get hack Tuesday afternoon. We had to low and so was the gas- a $10bill in the spring of the year when the shovel snow off the road all the might give you a return trip . The roads were soft. The Americans way." fare was $5 at the start, then it built the Satmonier Line-when There was one snowplow which went up to $7 and it was still $8 they left the road went down Jack Hender drove from St. when I retired three years ago­ again in no time . In winter, you Joseph's. but thatcouJd bean ad­ now it's up to $20because a trip needed a shovel and an axe to ditional obstacle fOT Steve to to St. John's costs $50in gas and clear the road, and your passen­ negotiate. you're lucky if you make $25a day gers had to get out and walk some " There were times we couldn't in wages." of the way-it might take you five get around him on the narrow cut, Driving a taxi then was an ex­ or six hours to get home even so we hauled the car by rope perience few of today's drivers when the weather was good." across the bank and over the would appreciate. When it was bad Steve might be bogs," Steve explains . "You could "We operated in all weather. on the road a lot longer. do that jf you had enough men in and I only missed a few days " People wanted to go even the car. Then there were the army when I was sick," Steve notes when the road was bad , but the trucks used to haul the fish­ with pride. " The first five years police would stop you if conditions people bought them up when the you could only drive in summer made the road impassable," base closed . You might meet up because the roads would be Steve recalls." I'd go out early in with a convoy of five or six, and bJocked in winter. When you went the morning with five to six pas­ have to back up a mile in the out, you had to be prepared for sengers when the road was stiH dark. anything. The day might be fine hard, and then get the car washed " I kneweveryone in Salmonier; when you Jeft, but you could in St. John's-the police would so there was no problem staying spend a long time getting back . stop you if you didn't get the mud overnight when YOU'd got so far. There were places all along the off. f'd stay all night and leave There were telephones to call road where you could stay, and if next day at the dinner hour to get home at St. Mary 's, St. Joseph's you got stu ck you might come horne that night. and the halfway house on the home by horse . "One time I left St. John's 5 Salmonier Line." "Most of the passengers were o'clock Friday afternoon in a Now Steve can take it easy for older people, and those that were snowstorm with seven passengers a change, but we get the distinct sick or having a baby. Youmight and their luggage and got as far impression he misses the excite­ be on the go 24hours a day if you as Cowan Avenue-that was way ment that every trip would bring got a call to come back and pick outside town then . We left again during his taxi days. up someone else. It took three at 10o'clock Sunday morning and DECKS AWAIH _ 45

Mall Bay

Mall Bay in the earlier days

LeoComerford . 87. has lived a Il his life in Mall Bay except for a short stay in Nova Scotia with the military. He fished before the days of motorboats. and looks a s if he still could . We meet him in the Mall Bay home or his daugh­ ter Madonna and her husband Ralph Critch. " I always had a small boat­ we didn 't have any motors back then ," Leorecalls. " Very r"", peo­ pie went to Labrador from here. One local man went up the Labrador on the Peter Comfort which lert from St. Mary's, where the rest of the crew were from . Codwas brought back on the Bad­ cock schooner from Labrador and dried in Mall Bay becau se there was more sunshine here . "We used to go orr St. Shott's and Shag Rocks for fish. Mr. Ryan from Mall Bay owned the schooner and the trap-I married his daughter Theresa. There were very few people with trawls, but we used to go jigging after we finished the trap fishery. In the later years we had traps Inshore about four miles from here." Mall Bay residents built their own boats,using wood from two local sawmills. "There were plenty of srna n boats-trapskiffs and motor­ boats-built then ," Leo remem­ bers . "I built several for other people. Tommy Daley and his fa­ mily are still running a sawmill, but Paddy Bonia 's is no longer operating. more often mud," Leo notes with returning now. Everyone in the Leo and his wife also ran a a wry grin. place had animals and vegetables small lobster factory in Mall Bay Life in the early 19005was a lot which the women looked after­ for 20 years. different from today . The one­ the men came home in the fall " Most years we packed 10or 12 room school had 40 pupils when and helped with the harvest. II cases, perhaps 20 in a good year. Leo went to school, but it had ex­ was hard to grow rood, but you The merchant took the cases, but panded to a two-room school with had everything you needed." we had to boil the extra lobsters over 50 pupils by the time it A few people in the community and take them to St. John's to sell closed in 1968. still have livestock, but the grav­ to restaurants and the American "There were more children in el road over the hill to Riverhead base. We drove out in a car or the families then," Leo tells us. receives far more use from truck and made a whole day of "A few of the children went to the grocery shoppers nowadays. 11 it- they were all gravel roads or United States, but some re 48 - OECKS AWASH

A Critch in time

Ralph and Madonna Critch can be lound at their store in Mall Bay when Ralph isn't out fishing and Madonna doesn 't have to teach school in Riverhead. We visit on a Sunday when the store is closed, but that doesn 't mean there ar­ en't people dropping by while Madonna keeps an eye on an ex­ tension to the house. There are also two young sons to check on, one of whom has gone into the country with an uncle. Madonna now leaches Grade 1 in the small school at Riverhead, but she taught at the two-room school in Mall Bay before that where Grades 6-9had as many as 50 pupils when it closed in 1968. Nowthe buses take Mall Bay chil ­ Morning In Mall Bay . dren to Riverhead. Riverhead fire hall,and there are ling some-thereare four lobster 'The last few years have been carpenters and two working in licences here, and they all switch hard ones for the local fishermen, the fishplant, but most of the men to axllater, but there's only two who had enjoyed good catches in are fishing and working on com- salmon licences . Herring have the 1970s. munity projects." he reports. been very scarce, and squid ha­ "The best year was 1979when " The fishery was good last year ven t been in for seven years­ I landed 700,000lbs. 01squid at an but short. No one landed that last year the federal scientists average of 10 cents a pound," many capJin because the quota caught three squid. But this year Ralph recalls. "I also had 300,000 was too small for so many boats . I understand they've caught a lbs. 01lish landed in 1979.The last The lobster fishermen aren't thousand-s-the next five years five years there haven't been complaining, so they must beget- sho~ld be good ones." "' 100,000Ibs. of fish, and no squid. That's been the same for most everyone. Now I'm in cod traps and we sell to Universal Fisher­ ROADCRUISER ies in St. Mary's who take under­ sized fish." The signs for 1987 have been good so lar, and Ralph hopes the community can benefit. "One person works in the i IJJ.' CHARTER ABUS! • MORE FUN FOR YOUR Gf~OUP • ARRANGE YOUR DEPARTURE AND RETURN TO SUIT YOUR CONVENIENCE • ROOMY RECLINING SEATS, PANORAMIC WINDOWS, AIR CONDITIONING • WE'LL DRIVE, YOU SIGHTSEE.

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION, VISIT OR CALL ROADCRUISER SERVICE 737-5916 TERRA TRANSPORT DECKS AWASH - 47

The Cape St. Mary's II

The Cape SI. Mary's IT was built in Bay d'Espoir seven years ago. She's receiving her final coat of paint inside the Admiral 's Beach Marin e Centre when we arrive in late April. Just one more day and the Mall Bay boat will be rea dy for the 1987fishing season. Skipper Pat Hearn is gone for the moment, and John Synyard is the ma n on the spot when we ask about this year's plans . " We'll get our gear ready and be fishing in two weeks," John reports as he supervises the final ma inte na nce. The Cape St. Mary' s II is the larg est boat at the marin e centre and the CfeIN of five have their work cut out. " We'll start out with cod traps John and the rest of the crew and then switch to caplin . After hope the caplin will equal or ex­ tha t we'll go back to the cod trap ceed last year's ca tch. until the first to days of August " I would say last year was a and then we' ll purse seine for very good season- the best for some years ," he comments." Our biggest ca tch was 52,000 lbs. on board, and 22,000lbs. being towed behind in the seine-that wasn't a problem for this boat. Youhave tocatch as much as you can each time out. The quotas only last about two weeks and there were 100boats here last yea r. Youcan find boats from all along the north east coas t in the summer." That 's a lot of competition, but the caplin were plentiful enough in 1986 tosupply all the boats. It's tooearly to tell if the same will be true this year, but there are al ­ ways other species to catch . St. Mary's Bay has rarely been not­ ed for a shortage of fish, and the Darrell Barnes applies the uner touches. squid are expected in. II 48 - DECKS AWASH

51. Joseph 's

The people behind Daley Brothers' success

Daley Brothers Limited has been operating for nine years, and the compan y a ttributes a large part of its success to the dedication of the plant em­ ployees. Talking to two of the company employees , we soon realize that the company 's own attitude has a lot to do with it. The Daleys em­ ploy people from the area and much farther afield-35 per cent come from Trinity and Concep­ tion Bay communities, and there has never been a problem finding people to work in the plant. One of its longest-serving em­ ployees, Ellen Daley of St. Joseph's, has been with the com­ A lull shift at work in t he Daley Brothers Ltd . plant. pany almost from the time it contro l officer for National Sea dren are still learning and ta king started up. Products in Arnold' s Cove, two courses -their educatio n is never "I've been here eight years in daughters are working in St. finished." all-six of them on a full-time ba­ John 's, and the youngest daugh ­ Myra Hickey from O'Donnells sis," she tells us. "I first worked ter is taking computer studie s at also has five children, a nd she a t squid, and a day later switched the Cabot Institute. Their higher agrees the plant work has made to the weigh scales where I've educa tion would not have been all the difference. Her three youn­ been ever since . I was a teacher possible without the job at Daley ger children are in university and for years. When my family grew Brothers. school, a son was on the Daley up, I had some spare time and I "Children need all the help you boats for a while, and a dau ghter missed working. The work here can give," Ellen says, " both has been a trimmer in the plant helped put my children through morally and financially. Your for eight years. Myra hers elf has school." goal is to get them educa ted to a been with the compa ny seven Only one of Ellen 's five chil­ point where they can look after years. dren is home now-her youngest themselves. Anyonecan drop out " I was a trimmer for a while, son. The oldest son is a quality of school, but I'm happy my chil- and then I switched to gra ding," she says." This is the quiet time of year, but if you came in when the caplin are in, you'd see how busy it can get. Wehave twoshifts on then, and two sections of the plant split between caplin a nd trapfish. " The boats come in here in the afternoon and within 15minutes the fish are being processed. It's as fresh 85 it ca n be.We usually start at 5 or 6 o'cloc k and work through the night." "In the winter we work day shifts," Elle n explains. " People come from Dildo, New Harbour, Whitbourne, Colliers and other places in Trinity a nd Conception Bays.Some leave home before six

50 - DeCKS AWASH in the morni ng-they may be late any par t of Ne'....foundland." "Daley Brothers never turn but not very often . If the roads In the busy periods students anyone away if a job 's available, are that bad, the trucks can 't gel are hired on. It's a perfect job for and , if you do the job that's ex­ in and the plant doesn't operate students attending the Mar ine In­ pected of you, they're very good anyway . stitute, Cabot Institute a nd to you," Ellen comments. "The first few years I worked Memorial University. The caplin "It's a great place to work," here, there was a short break af­ season coincides with summer Myra adds. " People travel great ter the winter herring until the holidays , and younger students distances to work here, and even cod started. Squid and mackerel can make boxes and help with the in the nearby communities you 'll took us into late Nove m be r. Now loading. Everyone has a role to find people working here rather the plant operates year round as play. than in thei r local plant." " a resource-short plant, and Both women ag ree they Daleys bring in fish by truck from couldn 't have a better emplo yer.

Fishing as a family

It's two days into the lobster season, and Ralph Dobbin and his son, Ralph Jr., are taking advan­ tage of a sunny day to apply a coat of paint to their boat along SI. Joseph's beach. "This is the second year for this boat , and I hope it'Il last another two years," Ralph comments. "Maybe I'll be able toget a fiber ­ glass boat then . Fiberglass is the answer if you can afford it-it's expensive, but in the long runit's worth it. My wife quite often comes out with me-the cabin is very handy in the wind and spray." Ralph Jr. goes out with his dad St. Joseph's waterfront view . quite a bit, and he plans to fish switches to caplin and cod. He might be my best year. The first when he grows up. His sister is has a feeling this might be a good month or so is usually the best, the only family member who year for the sma ll-boa t and the last two days have been doesn 't enjoy a fishing trip. The fisherman. quite good. I have 200pots to put lobster season runs from April 20 " I' ve been a lobster fisherman out-we averaged a lobster every to the end of June, when Ralph the last three years, and this second pot," Ralph tells us. " They're still small, and we had to put quite a few back . But at least you know there are some there for the future. ,.A southwest wind is the best for lobsters-en the wind is out of the hay you won't get too many because they move off with the easterly winds. This side of the • arm doesn't have any, but there are lots of lobster on the other side. The ledges off the Colinet is­ lands are good spots, and so is Shoal Bay. Wedon't have to trav­ el far." Ralph is optimistic about the other fisheries, too. He reads the signs and keeps his ears open for R11lph Dobbin and Ralph Jr . on the family boat . what's on the go. DECKS AWASH - 51

"If the gannets are this far up The first year back is usually a caplin seiners out here one day the bay, that means the herr ing good one, and that really helps last summer. That doesn't leave are in-that's a good sign," he the small-boat fishermen. We toomuch in the way offish for the says. "The boys ca ught squid in need the squid, too, to give us a small boats." their herring seines last week, so goodreturn. The bay is filled with II the squid may be back this fall. the bigger boats and I counted 35

Making the jump

Hugh MacKinnon hails from notes. "They recently tookpart in Sydney, Cape Breton. This is his the regional drama festival at second year as principal of En­ Whitbourne where they per­ right Memorial School, St. formed a play written by one of Jos eph 's, after four years of the students -Kevin McEvoy of teaching in Nova SCotiaand nine Admiral's Beach. They did very years in Labrador.The school has well it was very much a group classes to Gra de 12, with 235 effort." pupils from Admira l's Beach, The school is also justifiably O'DonneHs, St. Joseph's and the proud of one of its sports teams neighboring communities of New which capped off a great season Bridge, Forest Field and St. recently by winning it all. Catherines. " OUr senior girls basketball On the day we visit, the Grade team under coach Theresa Brazil 12 students are in 51. Jo hn's to won the AA provincial tourna ­ visit MUN, the Cabotlnstitule, SI. ment in Burin which was a major Clare's Hospital, the Marin e In­ Hugh MacKinnon accomplishment," Hugh tens us. stitute and the Newfoundland museum . The cost is very high­ " The team only plays matches Career Academy. about $250to rent the buses plus against St. Mary 's and Mount " We arra nge a tour in the gasoline and meals , but it's part Carmel before the regional tour­ spring after the guidance coun­ of the students' education." na ment, which we won here sellor has found out what gra du­ This is an example of learn ing withouta lossagainst teams from ating students are interested in," outside the classroom-other ac­ Trepassey, St. Brides and Bay Hugh explains. " It gives them ex­ tivities reflect the interes t of in­ Roberts. That gave the girls the posure to postsecondary educa­ dividual teachers who give a lot confidence they needed for the tion. The school also has junior of their free time to the students. provincial tournament." high and high school trips to " Wehave a very active drama The success may be conta­ places like the legislature or the club under J oe Dobbin," Hugh gious, especially since younger players are beingdevelopedin the Jocal communities. " Our vice-principal, Tony Reardon, runs a very active minor basketball program in the area which started up last fall." Hugh informs us."That's the key to the future. Local businesses and residents sponsor Grades 4 to 9 teams on Saturday morning . There are four teams-boys and girls Grades ~ and 7-9. They ended off the year with a trip to Cia renville and won every game-that shows our very high quality." It's obvious students from En­ right Memorial will have no trou­ ble making the jump to Kneeling (I-r): Kim Power , JOllnne Dobbin, Nlltasha Genge, Jeannie McEvoy, postsecondary education and Shllnnon Powe r. Stllnding (I-r): There .. Brazil (coac h), Michell e Hell ley, Noreen Genge, Petrina Dilley, Vllierie McEvoy , Wllmll Pll rwons, J.ckle Rylln , completing jump shots on the Juli e Lake , Tony Rellrdon (1I..lstllnt). basketball courl. I!I 52 - DECKS AWASH

Hitting the right note

Joe Healey, a local Grade 11 "I have a trip to Germany as student at Enright Memorial is part of an exchange program hilling the right notes these days. sponsored by the military," he "I'm in the local cadet corps." tells us. "It's my first trip abroad he informs us. "We meet once a and there's another student from week and every Sunday morning, Mount Pearl in the three Atlantic and take part in parades. I'm in cadets picked . I'm not sure yet if the corps drum and bugle band as I want a career in the armed lead bugler. We have 16 in the forces, and I'm looking at a band-both girls and boys-and university degree in computer it's been in existence 15 years Joe Healey studies." now." cadets has landed him a plum as­ Joe's association with the signment.

O'Donnells

Roll on, 18-wheeler, roll on!

As you drive from S1.Joseph's to O'Donnells. one of the first things you'll see on the lelt isa lot filled with trailers and plastic fish boxes. On the other side of the road you might find a colorful rig parked in the driveway of the first house. This is the home of John Hickey and his family-the busi­ ness centre of O'DonneUs. John has been trucking fish for 20 years, and also has two es-tt. boats with local skippers. They fish 12months of the year which meansa year-roundtrucking bus­ iness for John and his family. There will be an addition to the family business this summer. "We're building a seasonal fish­ plant in the community," John in­ May. Last year was one of the forms us. "1 have a licence for best years for caplin, and we're expecting the first run around the second week of June-they're later farther north. Wehave otter trawls and can go seining, and 1 would process squid if they come !C!~IiI;;~-'IIin this year. The price for herring and mackerel doesn't make it worthwhile to catch them. The last six years we stuck with fish­ ing cod and caplln." Catching fish in St. Mary's Bay bas rarely been a problem. Boats from White, Green, Notre Dame, Trinity and Conception Bays all start here in the spring because Loaded up lind ready 10 roll. the season starts three weeks DECKS AWASH - S3 earlier tha n elsewhere . boats and trapskiffs. We have a apart from the new fishplant. "There are certainly lots of ves­ fleet of five trucks , and I own "We bought a fish off-loading sels here and getting fish has them all except one my oldest pump in January-it cost us never been a problem -tons and son, Keith, owns and drives . We $120,000 new and it's fully mo­ tons of fish are trucked out ofhere truck fish all over the island , and bile," he te lls us. " It's in every year. A plant will create lo­ even truck fish for FPI. Chetica mp, Cape Breton, at the cal employment ," John reasons. "My wife Mary does the hook­ mome nt set. up on a trailer to be The ready supply of fish means keeping for the company and mobilized in an hour and towed that he has not had to diversify takes all the business calls when behind a tra ctor. I pump fish at a his trucking business. we're gone. Todd and Craig are price- so much per pound, so it's " I started the business out of still in school, but Craig helped a good investment. " school," John tells us. " People build the planl-Thdd will be the Those l8-wheelers we see had single-axle trucks and there acco untant in the family." par ked by the roadside in O'Don­ were not toomany big boats back Business has been brisk enough nells should be seeing plenty of then-most people had motor- for John to expand in other areas duly for years to come. II

The play's the thing

Paul Critch of O'Donnells is a maceutical studies. The nearest Grade 11 student at Enright phar macist's job is in 51.Cather ­ Memorial. Paul's career interest ines, but Paul admits the pay's is in pharmacy which would much better on the mainland . His mean five years in university for other major interest is acting. a science degree and extra pha r- "I was in the school play " My The Right Place! The Right Price! Best Western Travellers Inn located in the heart ofSt. ,joh n's busiest com me rcial distri ct features clean, com forta ble, affor- d ab le accom moda tio ns, - fine dining at M rs , T's di ning • room and Mr, T's. casual relaxin g lou nge . All of this presented with Th e Traveller s " O ld Fashioned Hospitali­ ty" mak es the T raveller s In n the Travellers Choice. If you're a regul ar visitor to St .J ohn 's th en ask us ab out the V.LT. pro gr am and how you ca n get all it' s ben efit swith one ni ght Paul Crttch free for every ten you stay with us. Wonderful Tomorrow' , which was 92 BEAUTIFUL ROO1l.1S MRS. T'S DINI NG ROOM written by a Grade 11student," he MEETING FACILITIES MR. T'S LOU NGE informs us. "It's quite likely someone else will write a play for next year. All the students can take part beca use nobody has to travel very far."

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Admiral's Beach

The whys of council are not always wise counsel

Born in 'Iempleman. Bonavis­ "The fishplant was built with ta Bay, Len Bungay's regular job DRIE money by local people, but is with the Canadian Coastguard the provincial government ex­ in Argentia which means two propriated it-we never received evenings, two days, and two any notice of it," he says. "They nights of work, and then three leased it to a private operator­ days off. Lengrewup in St. John's Atlantic Fisheries Limited, and where his father worked on the we didn 't get any income from it. steamships. Len also worked with Wewanted totake it over when we Blue Peter Steamships for three heard it was going to be sold­ years and then spent seven sum ­ now I hear they've sold it to the mers on the Labrador coastal leaseholder without even inform­ boats . His wife, Theresa, is from ing us. We'll get the business tax- Admiral's Beach and they mar­ ....~ ,.. I es, but we would have liked to ried in 1971. have had a chance to operate it. Not long after he moved to Ad­ What's the use of putting councils miral's Beach Len became in­ since 13people ran for four posi­ in place if the provincial govern­ volved in community work. He is tions. There will be another elec­ ment just ignores you?" in his fourth term as mayor of Ad­ tion this year. It's a familiar complaint these miral's Beach. It's far from easy " It's hard going for councils days around the province, but Ad­ being a councillor, and even more these days, especially since the miral's Beach has found ways of taxing being mayor. It takes Len government now wants money getting things done before, and 90minutes to get to Argentia, and hack to payoff capital debts. We Len is confident the community leaves him little spare time. changed to a property lax in 1981, will do so again. The rece nt pro­ "I'd like to lake some of the but we still haven't had an inspec­ vision of a commun ity subdivi­ municipal government courses, tion done so we can't get our 50 sion is proof of that, but local but it's too difficult with my cents rnatching funds on every action is even bette r demonstrat ­ shifts," Lensighs. "1 haven't been dollar spent. II's hard to keep the ed by the volunteer activity of the able to attend any of the Federa­ community spirit going-people Admiral's Beach firefig hters. tion of Municipalities conventions tend to say leave it tothe council­ "The community hall was buill at all. Writing letters doesn't ac­ lors, which means we get blamed when the community was incor­ complish very much, but I can't if things go wrong." porated in 1967," Len tells us. get to all the meetings. Last year Len has been particularly frus­ "Around the time I arrived there we had a regular election for the trated by what happened with the was a grant for a fire truck-it first time-it was very successful local fishplant. was kept in a garage. The first .....,,-...,...... year I was on council I ended up ,- as fire chief and we started a fire department and began fundrais­ ing, We held regular events and, two years ago, after I had left the job of fire chief, they won the ten­ der on a fire pumper at Wabush. The firefighters picked it up there, took it on the train to Sept lies and drove all the way here in three days. That was quite a tri p, especially with a fire truck tha t couldn't go too fast -everywhere they went they met other fire­ fighters ." Over the next few years fun­ draising continued. There was no proper office space for the coun­ cil or fishermen, so an applica- DECKS AWASH - 55 lion was made for Canada Works money in 1984 to build an exten­ sion and make renovations up­ stairs. Three years of grants saw the floor area increased by 40 feet and the very impressive renovat ­ ed facility was completed in 1986. " We had to find our own materials while Canada Works paid most of the labor-we're very proud of what we bum for $150,000," Len notes with pride. We get to see the community hall in action at the Community Awards Night and dance , and a very impressive sight it is. "

The community of Admiral 's Beach has certainly been put on the map in the last year or so. So it was highly appropriate that their first annual Community Awards Night shoold take place in May 1987. Mayor Len Bungay presided over the event and thanked the volunteers who had helped build the community hall in which it took place . The biggest event of the year was the rescue of 165Sri Lankans by fishermen from Admiral 's Beach. "People all over Europe and around the world now know that Ron Dalton gave up his last can of beans to feed them, " Mayor Bungay commented and then paid tribute to the man who led mander until the Coast Guard the rescue. "Gus Dalton, a local vessel arrived. The plaque recog­ longliner captain, initiated the nizes the humanitarian act and distinction brought to our com­ munity. It was a classic case of seamen rescuing others at sea ." In sports, the Enright Memori­ al senior girls team with five Ad­ miral's Beach girls won the AA Avalon East basketball title, then the all Newfoundland and Labrador title. Awards were presented to the five-Kimberley Power, Shannon Power, Regina McEvoy, Valerie McEvoy and Wilma Parsons. The community college scholarship to the Grade 12student with the highest aver­ age was awarded to Irene Doody. The spotlight was then passed 56 - DECKS AWASH over to the Cirefighters and the lo­ cal fire chief, Jack Corcoran . " When the bell rings it rings Cor almost anything-it might be a ca r accident, or a woman having a baby," Captain Corcoran com­ mented." The fire service is rapidly changing to that of an emergency service, and you have to be well equipped to do the job. Any purchases are important­ especially for safety. We spent lots of money on upgrading the community hall itself, and just yesterday we finished a two-year program on firefighting foam­ making. The federal government­ funded foam-making machine The Awards Night di nner was very well a«ended. will be very useful for the Marine Centre, fishplants and the the community, noting that it's wharf." more important to take an active part not just belong, ChieCCorco­ ran paid tribute and presented awards to the wives and younger volunteers. After an award for Fireman of the Year to Allen Hanlon, the fi­ nal award of the evening was an­ nounced. For his work as a councillor, deputy fire chief and member of the fishermen's comittee, Michael Dobbin was named Citizen of the Year, A dance followed with music provided by a band from Placen­ tia, and the dance floor proved its The fire tender and l oam-making equipment. worth into the wee hours. "'

Admiral's Beach Marine Centre

Ken Dalton, 41, ha s been Bay," Ken explains ." There are manager of the Admiral's Beach boats Crom Trepassey, Branch, 51. Marine Centre since it opened on Brides , Trinity and Conception August 21, 1m.The operation has Bays,and the odd boat Crom other meant a lot to his home commu­ bays over the summer, Most of nity over that time. the boats coming in during the " Business has picked up quite summer are for emergency a bit over the years, " Ken notes. repairs-replacing a prop. repair­ On our visit there are over- a ing a leak , or untangling a seine dozen boats in the parking lot. or rope from around the prop. Many other boats bave already ..In the summer we have a lot lefl, but others are being readied of purse seiners in the caplin fish­ Corthe trap fishery which is starl­ ery. The largest vessel was the ing in early May. One of a num­ Random Bell, owned by Clyde ber of such centres operated by Ken Dalton Simmo ns of Hickman's Harbour, the provincial department DC Cish­ which sank two miles south of eries around the province, the Ad­ "We cover from Admiral's Cclinet Island in June last year miral's Beach Marine Centre Beach to Trepassey and the Cape when its caplin seine becameen­ provides a repair facility Cor local Shore-the next marine centre is tangled on the bottom. She was on fishermen. at Southern Harbour in Placentia the bottom Cull oC caplin Cor to DECKS AWASH - 57 days until she was brought in­ she was a very wide 53-footer. There aren't many vessels over 50 feet around, but at the height of the caplin season last June Ad­ miral's Beach was packed with purse seiners." In the winter the work being done is of a more routine nature. "We might have 25or 30 boats here over the winter-we stay open all the time. Most of the repairs and maintenance are done in the winter. The last twoor three years people have been get­ ting into fiberglass-those boats won't need as much main­ tenance." under repair to keep Ken busy, Iing worked on when we visit are There'll still be enough boats though. And twoof the vessets he- having a fiberglass faeetift. I'!I

Getting ready for a new season

The Admiral's Beach Marine f Service Centre is in full swing when we visit. There are boats at every stage of repair and refit both inside and outside the build­ ing. Oneof the larger vessels out­ side is the Isabel Ann Marie from Trepassey which is getting a faceliff. "This is the handiest place for us to overhaul her," Robert Ben­ nett tells us. "Paving the road from Trepassey was a big help for getting here in winter-it used to be a wicked journey."

NTVI NEWFOUNDLAND S FIVE STAR NETWORK. 24 HOURS A DAY 58 - DECKS AWASH

The signs look good

The day before we visit Ad­ miral 's Beach, April 20, was the first day of the lobster fishery. Fishermen ru shed to get their traps out and the results were good. " That's a little unusual for the first day," comments Stephen Corcoran , who's been a lobster fishermen for longer than he cares to admit. He's baiting his traps with herring and getting ready to reset them . " The bait doesn't seem to mat ­ ter too much," Stephen tells us. " We pick our own spots-I have 100trap s set all over the place. I don't have to go far to set the traps, so the dory's a good boat. I also use her to fish for salmon and for cod with gillnels and Stephen Corcoran trawls ." I!I

Foxes, firewood and fresh fruit '

Ben and Betty Power and their IBetty, 43, both came from near­ Ben's mother, who is 90 now, ran thr ee grown-up daughters now by communities. Betty lived in St. the family store there and his are very much an Admiral's Joseph's, while the Powers had father was a fishermen . In 1961 all Beach family, but Ben, 50, and their horne on Colinet Island. the Colinet Island families left­ most settling a few miles away at Admiral 's Beach , Ben's family included. Only one family now lives on the island-a retired cou­ ple who moved back from 'Ioron­ to for some peace and quiet. ", "There were five families al­ 1~ Whether ready here down by the beach it's a Conven- when we came," Ben reca lls. ~ " Everyone grew their ownfoodin tion Charter you the gardens even though the to' need or you just want to ground was not all that good." get where you are going in "I 've run the store in Admiral's the 51. John's MI. Pearl area. Beach for 18 years since Ben's mother gave it up," Betty tells us. "People still use it as much as they ever did and we have our regular customers. Wefind we're busier in the winter when travel RIDE THE METROBUS WAY is more difficult. Getting sup­ FOR INFORMATION CONTACT : plies, including fresh fruit, is 51. John 's Transportation Commission fl:=, never a problem . We deal main­ ly with Ackermans in Bay 245 Freshwater Road rnerroous Roberts , although we have a sup­ plier in St. John 's. People around (709) 722-9400 .... here have always had a close con­ nection to Conception Bay. "My only break is Sunda y, but the girls help a lot in the store on saturday when they're home. Janice is married and grad uating this summer; Judy is tak ing bus­ iness administration cours es ; and Kim is in her last year of high school. I'm going to miss them when they're no longer around, although I might get some of my own clothes back , she add s with a laugh. " While Betty minds the store, Ben has his hands full with a saw­ mill, a fox ranch and some part­ time fishing . "We've had the sawmill a long time," he explains."Wecut most­ ly firewood around here-the growth is too poor for much else. Youdon't have to go back too far to get it, but you can 't make any money with a mill . I spend more time with the foxes. January­ March is the busy time getting ready for the new batch of foxes after the pelting in December. In the eight months from April to December the young becom e full grown, and we send the pelts to the Hudson's Bay Company for sale at their auction house. Each The sun brings out the foxes. person has his own number-the any problem selling all the pelts , cent over the last yea r- I hope ranch number. We haven 't had and prices have risen by 20 per that trend continues and we don't see the animal rights groups get­ ting involved." Although the animals, which are enjoying the sun on our brief visit, need a certain amount of at­ EDaie tention , they are not as expensive to raise as one might think . & Company Limited " They eat quite a bit of fish and STEERS INSURANCE division we buy sacks of special fox food," Ben explains."We always keep a two-month supply on hand , and we have a freez er for keeping INSURANCE BROKERS meat. The black silver fox is the AUTO - HOME - COMMERCIAL most popular variety and that's what we have. The males require ST. JOHN 'S more work, so you keep about a 120 TORBAY ROAD third as many as you do of fe­ 722-1532 males. There are some wild red faxes around, but they 're usually too shy to come close to the GRAND FALLS CORNER BROOK cages." 2 MILL ROAD MILLBROOK MALL Ben and Betty like it in Ad­ 489-4303 634-3455 miral's Beach . They both take REPRESENTATIVES THAOlIGHQUT NEWFOUNDLAND part in community ac tivities, and OFFICES ACROSS CANADA they are optimistic about their community. "There's enough work in the lo­ cal fishplant for people to work 60 - DECKS AWASH around the clock when the fish When the caplin come in June IWe have had Port uguese boats are landed, and no one has had to you'll see trucks lined up every- calling in here, too. This is one leave the community because of where because Admiral's Beach busy spot for a while." lack of work," Belly says. "But is so handy to the fishing grounds. II the fishing season is very short.

A Power on the basketball team Shannon Power was one of five Admiral's Beach students on the winning senior girls basketball team. "We didn't expect to do that well, but winning the regional tournament without a loss in St. J oseph's made all the differ­ ence," she says. Shannon has another year of basketball and school to look for­ ward to, and she already has a career in mind. "I'd like to be an X-ray technologist-my sister is work­ ing in the hospital in Goose Bay. None of us is planning to be a teacher," Shannon concludes with a smile. II

Baked Cod Tongues 1 lb. cod tongues Shann on Power cracker crumbs 2 or :I small onions 3 tablespoons buller milk to COVCJ" salt to taste savory to taste pepper to taste

Wash and dry cod tongues. Put layer of tongues in a buttered 8" Beothic Fish Processors Limited casserole; cover with cracker crum bs, sliced onions. salt. pep­ per and savory; dnt with huller. Addanother layer of tonguesand Buyers and Processors continue until all are used. Have a layer of crumbs on top. Dot with of hut ler, cover WIthmilk. Bake at 350' F. until tongues a re cooked Newfoundland Sea Products (about 1\4 hou~) valleyfield , Newfoundland Twillingale, Newfoundland (709) 536·2425 (709) 884-2241 DECKS AWASH _ 151

The McEvoy mill

Four young bodies are crammed pr eca riousl y on a three- wheel all-terrain vehicle as we check out the activity at the McEvoy sawmill in Admiral's Beach. The four cousins are not about to se t off anywhere. though-they knowhow unstable a three-wheeler ca n be. It's just a comfortable seat on which to hang out. Th the side, the saw is keeping up a steady drone as the timbers are squared off. Inside we meet the boys' lath ers - two 01 the McEvoy broth ers. Austin McE­ vay, 36. owns the sawmill, and Bill, 44, is down to give him a hand. " I'm still fishin g like the other brothers. There ar e eight of us­ I'm the second oldest. The boys all came first and then four girls ," Bill explains. "There were more saw mills when there was a lot of boatbuilding going on-now there are two other small mills . Fishermen are switching to fiberglass." Austin gave up fishing three years ago because there weren 't any fish. He worked for a summer at the local fishplant, and finds work in construct ion and any­ thing else tha t comes up. The sawmill doesn't provide a steady income, but the wharf construc­ tion in Admiral's Beach has brought some business. "There's not much money in the sawmill business ," Austin ad­ mits. "The wood around here is too knotty for wharf timbers, so we had to go to Gambo to cut." The mill is small and well kept, but the nea res t place to sha rpe n the saw is Glovertown. Austin also does some farming to cut the fa­ mily cost of living . " I have three head of cattle and cut some hay during the summer. We grow just about everything we need in our garden. The weather can be a problem- it's a wonder we grew ourselves in the fog," he smiles as the dinner bell sounds across the road . I!I 62 - DeCKS AWASH editorial The area from Peter's River to Admiral' s Beach time for little else. Menwent out earl y in the morn­ is one of contrasts between old and new. ing, brought back their catch and then spent hours Looking back on the old, we remember what it splitting fish for drying and salting-itwas a salt­ was like in the '405 when a drive along the fish industry. What they received for their fish de­ Salmonier Line was not for the weak at heart. De-­ pended on the " cull" . At best, they received a few pending on the weather, one of two conditions cents per pound. As one fisherman put it,"Wegot prevailed: a muddy, soggy road with lots of pud­ nothing for our fish." Thday, there are far fewer dles of indeterminate depth; or a bumpy , fishermen because they sell most of their catch washtngboard-type surface with clouds of dust. fresh in the round to the plants where many others The truly bright spot was Father Duffy's well now find work. On one day we visited, fishermen where weary travellers could pull off the road and were demonstrating at the St. Mary 's plant. Last drink the freshest, coldest water imaginable. Oh, year, they received 14112 cents per pound for their how in a child's mind, it seemed to take forever fresh fish, this year, with no price yet set they are to get there . Flat tires ruled the day-inner tubes negotiating for more. A far cry from the day when had to be removed from tires , patched with a du­ the merchant could set his own price . bious combination of rubber patches and In earlier times, the scenery was beautiful , and cement-a lengthy procedure. Thday's modem largely untouched. Dust-laden trees were about paved road bears little resemblance to that of the worst you might see. 'Ibday, we noticed dis­ yesteryear, and Father Duffy's well is upon you be­ carded paper, cans and bottles scattered along the fore you've hardly started. Whilethe well was con­ highroad. Broken glass is a danger to cars and pe0­ structed in 1935 by the Knights of Columbus, it's ple and is certainly unsightly. Car wrecks , sadly, now the centre of a provincial park. Wewonder if like most other parts of the province, dot the land­ it's as well used as it was 40years ago when it was scape. The communities themselves are neat and a true haven for road-weary travellers. tidy. It would be nice if the surrounding country­ In the old days, the houses in each community side were, too. Visitors and residents alike should were two-storied, the whitewash almost all protect the beauty of Newfoundland given as our weathered off. Horses grazing nearby were the birthright. This is a provincial concern. Perhaps main transportation. Children, thin and ill clad , the residents on the eastern side of St. Mary's Bay stood wistfully by the roadside, shyly waving at will be the first to act to change this dismal state passersby. Today, houses are brightly painted , of affairs. After all, the first week in June is en­ modern bungalows standing next to their equally vironment week. colorful and taller ancestors. Pickup trucks, today Finally, wenoticed one thing here that fortunate­ a necessity for fishermen, are evident in almost ly has not changed over the years. Everywhere we every yard. Children, healthy and hearty, clad in went, residents, old and young alike, unfailingly jeans and bright shirts ride by on shiny bicycles, made us welcome, either with a friendly " hello" but they still wave at visitors. or " good morning", and they waved goodbye as Originally, virtually every man fished for his liv­ we left. We thank them all. ing. It was a time-consuming business leaving

r------cut out and save just In case ------FISHERMEN

,, . _~~-' TROUBLE WITH WHALES AND SHARKS? If you have a live or dead whale or shark in your fishing gear, call the number listed below. We can give you advice, supply you with gear that will help and will send a trained crew with special equipment to help release the animal and minimize damage to your fishing gear. Some large sharks are now valuable and we can advise you on selling them. CALL COLLECT DAY OR NIGHT 753-5495 This service is free from the Whale Research Group of Memorial University and Fisheries and Oceans Canada. ______cut out and save just in case------I features Home qardeninq by Ross Traverse Q: I am planning to layout a garden on a south ­ facing slope. Which would be the best direction to have the beds, up and down the slope or along e side'! A: It's best to lay out the gardon with the beds at right angles to the slope to.help prevent soil erosion . It's also a good idea to terrace the slope by using planks or timbers as retaining walls on the lower side of the bed. This will give you an even surface to plant the garden and food which you can apply in a soluble form like help retain the soil and nutr ients . It is an ex­ 20-20-20, a tablespoon in a gallon of water ap­ cellent idea tohave a garden on a south-facing plied every week or so. slope because it helps trap the heat early in the Q: Should I cut my potato seed or plant them as season so the plants benefit from the maxi ­ old tubers? mum amount of light. r\: This depends on the size of the seed. Small seed Q: I have some damson trees that have not been around 2 oz. are best planted whole; however, producing very well in the last few years. They if you have quite large potatoes then they are haven't been pruned for a long time., how do I best cut. If you cut seed, cut them at least a go about it? week before planting to let the cut surface heal over and help prevent the seed pieces from rot­ A: Damson trees . like most fruit trees , are best ting. Youshould have at least two strong eyes pruned early in the season before new growth in each seed piece. When cutting seed potatoes. starts. The trees should be spaced at least 10 select the seed very carefully to avoid any dis­ feet apart. Any suckers growing underneath ease problems. Make sure you don't cut any should be removed by cutting or mowing . The rotten potatoes but if you do, the knife should lower branches should be removed to give a be washed in a Javex solution. trunk four or five feet above the ground . QI Early ever y summer my rhubarb goes to seed Branches which grow straight up in the centre . and I don't get very much from it after that. of the tree are best removed to let the plant What can I do to increase the production? capture more light. You should prune every A: As soon as you see the seed stock forming, cut year remove any sucker growth and any to it oot right down to the base . Then app ly a branches which develop along on the trunk . liberal application well-rotted stable manure Also. remove any dead or broken branches. or and make sure the plants don't dry out. An ap­ Damson trees benefit from regular fertilizing plication of general purpose fertilizer later on with naturally occurring fertilizer like sea­ in the season will help keep the plants grow­ weed. fish offal or manure. Youcan also appl y ing and should increase production con­ a general purpose fertilizer like l~lo-lO early siderably. in the spring. An application of agricultural Q : Every year the leaves of my gooseberry plants lime would also be beneficial to increase the ar e stripped out, by a little caterpillar that efficiency of your fertilizer. works very quickly . In a matter of days there Q: I planted some geraniums from cuttings in are no leaves left. What can I do? 4-inch pots which I intend to transplant into the A: There are quite a few insecticides on the mar­ garden. I grew the geraniums in a sun porch , ket registered for use against leaf-eating in­ but I've noticed the leaves are turning red and sects. Chemicals like Ambush, Sevin and the growth is slowed down. What's the Oiazinon should be applied followingthe direc­ problem? lions on the label very carefully. It's importr: A: The temperature can be too low. Geraniums the plants be sprayed at the first slg. are best grown at around 60 degrees F. If the damage and you must work very quickly l temperature is low the plants can 't take up the cause the plants can be stripped out Iite' nulrients and the plants will show deficient overnight. Inspect the plants every few ~ symptoms which show up as a reddish color in determine if the insects have started to the lower leaves. Another problem might be There's not much sense spraying before tl that the plants are simply deficient in plant sects are actually active and feeding. 64 - DICKS AWASH

The Humber Valley Strawberry Festiva.l

When the Humber VaHeyDevelopment Associ­ ation and the Newfoundland Strawberry Growers Auoctation got together to organize a festival a few years ago they had no idea it would become SOlueeOSsfu!. In 1986over 15,000people altended the various events , and this year promises to be jUlt II popular. TIl. HUmber Valley Strawberry Festival will be held frorn August 1-9. There is something for pe0­ ple or aU ages with parades, dances, picnics , ca­ nOi races. dog shows, strawberry-aa-eating contolta, fishing derbies, square dances, folk sin­ gers. auto shews. antiques, dinners and much me.... With SO many events going on, the communities of Steady Brook, Pasadena, Deer Lake, Howley, Some oll..t year'. crop at the Humber Valley . Reldvllle and Cormack each has its own commit­ teetohandle local events , with a central commit­ tee toplan and co-ordinate the activities of the 75 (709) 635-3861, or write to Box 989, Deer Lake, New ­ or more volunteers. The festival is a good exam ­ foundland, AOK 2EO. ple or agriculture and tourism combining to pmont something very special. EVENTS TO SEl..ECT FROM The humber Valley is blessed with many natur­ al loUMsI attractions like Steady Brook Falls, Deer Strawberry-eating Contest Egg Toss Lilloand Big Falls and is located on the way to Mock Jail Strawberry Desserts Groe Morne National Park. With agriculture a Dunk Tank Pie Throw major industry and strawberries a very popular Hay Rides Craft Sale itl"", you can share the delights of the Humber Horse Rides Bake Sale VallO)'and take home enough strawberries to eat Wagon Rides Popsicles strAWberry shortcake all winter. Puppet Show Ice Cream AI • sampler of what is going on, the communi­ Strawberry Shortcake Tea Party Hot Dogs IyofReidville has scheduled a decorated bike pa­ Parade Hamburgers ralloforthe afternoon of Friday, August 7, followed Chalk Art Contest Barbecued Chicken b)' Arair, a children's lip-sync contest and bingo Coloring Contest Soup lor AdUlts.August 8 events include a morning ca­ Crown and Anchor Fish 'n Brewis noo run, a fair in which Deer Lake mayor Gus Ker­ Fortune Telling Wine and Cheese win lull been challenged to sit on the dunk tank . Boat Rides Baked Beans Th@f@ will be a strawberry-eating contest in the Heritage Displays Peas Soup att@rftOon on Sunday, August 9 when the fair will Laser Displays Food and Drink , other allIInbeopen. Flying Show TDYrlat chalets have details of the events in an Face Painting Games, other Iii @#ft'lmunities. For more information, call Log sawing Sand SCulpture Business Specials Log Rolling Spin Casting Dance, Entertainment Pet Show Go Karts sack Races Name of group or business Potato Races Tug of War Contact person Fish Pond Wheelbarrow Race ------Telephone number

Please return to Box 989, Deer Lake, Newfound­ land, AOK2EOor call (709) 635-3861. ftI DECKS AWASH - 65

FPI freezer trawler christened

Witha light breeze blowingon a sunny afternoon in early May, Fishery Products International's Newfoundland Lynx was christened at Harvey 's pier in 81. John's harbor. The 215-£1.$lQ-million freezer trawler, purchased in Norway and refitted in West Germany, is the latest addition to FPI's offshore fleet. Mrs. Cheryl Riche, wif e of the la'» Lester Riche a former employee of FPI and f ...jI;;CI.~l rtsnerl es, christened the ship with a beribb oned magnum of champagne. Father Des McGrath and the Reverend Bert Cheeseman blessed the ship and "all who sail in her". Also present was artist Christopher Pratt who donated a print of his "Newfoundland Lynx" to be hung aboard the ship. " The lJ'nx will enable us to go after our redfish and shrimp quotas which until nowwe've been un­ ab le to utilize," said Vic Young, chief executive officer of FPI. "We will also be able to freeze cod for the Resource Short Plant Program." ~tonne The freezer traw ler has a capacity and Captai n Joe Farrell has facilities to catch, head, and gut redfish and crew of 23will be up to 40 days unless the capaci­ cod aboard. Up-to-date equipment will mechan­ ty is reached before that time. ica lly head a nd gut the fish which is carried by Redfish (ocean perch) will be sold to the conveyor to the on-board freezing facilities. Captain Joe Farrell, master of the Lynx , and a Japanese market which prefers to buy headed and native of Catalina, says the average trip for the gutted frozen fish . "We already have our market," says production manager, Gary Marsh, 44,who has been a fisher­ man in Nova Scotia . "Japanese will be aboard to observe our quality control methods . Wewill head , gut, wash and pack the redfish which will be shipped directly to Japan. " As for the shrimp, there'll be none better in the world . We'll have raw, frozen shrimp and froze n cooked as well. We'll be selling mainly in Denma rk and Japan where the demand is for premium shrimp, " Gary adds. The shrimp will beprocessed in the shell . FPI was formed as part of government's res­ tru cturing of the deep-sea sector designed to put the offshore fishery on a secure financial footing. Created from the assets of eight bankrupt compa­ nies in 1984, FPI received about $280 million in grants and conversion to debt equity from the fed­ era l and provincial governments and the Bank of Nova SCotia. The original plan was that the com­ pany would be returned to the private sector wi­ thi n five years. In t986,however, FPI turned a profit of $46.5mil­ lion. This was due to a number of factors. U.S. per capita consumption of fish increased by 2 lbs. to over 15 lbs. and FPI sells approximately 80 per cent of its production on the U.S. market. F PI's productivity increased 5 per cent in 1986, fuel prices were lower, the U.S. dollar was high against the Canadian dollar, interest rates were lower and Looking astern aboard The Lynx . fish prices high. The company also has had a good working relationship with the fishermen's union . 66 - DECKS AWASH

Thus, this April, two years earlier than antici­ pated, saw the privatization of the company when common sha res became available to the general public on the 'Ibronto stock exchange at $12.50 each, with their value already increased by one third in early May. The Lynx is the latest addition to FPI's fleet of ,~; ~ ~.~; 66offshore vessels. Plants nowowned by the com­ : :' :" iI'~ ~ ~ 1.;'Jiv~" pany total 19 located at Ramea, Gaultois, Harbour • " Breton, Grand Bank, Burin, Fortune, Maryslown, ~~. , '~~',' NP:trOUN01 A¥OUKI Trepa ssey, South Dildo, Charleston, Cata lina, Bonavista, Triton, ~t Anthonv (' oks Harbc ..!r, ~....~$'I,' Por t au Choix, Hi vc . <1 ml../. •.\u plants in Massachusetts at Danve i:. rd Haston.1! The ere... watche s the ceremonies.

The Fogo Island Process-Stage Two

In the 19605what became known worldwide as the Fogo Process was developed by Memorial University's Extension Service. Faced with the government's resettlement program, Fogo Island residents, led.by the island's Improvement Com­ mittee, pressured the government to adopt rura l development rath er than resettlement. The Na­ tional Film Board, Extension's media unit and its field workers recor ded on film aspects of commu­ nity life to help people cope with socia l and eco­ nomic chan ge. This eventually became known as the "Fogo Process ". A total of28reels of film were shot on Fogo Islan d, and the Fogo Process was later used in other rural communities. This program of comm unity development de­ Members 01the Fogo project team : back (I.r) Clyde Lush , Ed Tech ; Aubrey Cull , Member Relations OHlcer , C4r0p ; pended to a large exten t on active community in­ Eric Sansome , Quality Control Off icer , C4r0p ::BIII Barry , volvement in economic developm ent. An Ed Tech. Fron t (l-r) Roger Burry, Ed Tech ; Dave Holloway, immedi ate result was the establishment of the Ed Tech; Elaine Condon , Extension. Fogo Island Shipbuilders and Producers Co­ operative, which helped to build longliners ca pa­ Elaine Condon, the Division of Ex tension's field ble of fishing offshore. The Co-opwas founded in co-ordinator in Gander, joined other Schoolof Con­ 1967with 127chartered members and less than tinuing Studies sta ff on Fogo Island in early April $700in share cap ital but soon became a major em­ at the invitation of the Fogo Island Co-operative. ployer in its fishplant. " The Co-op was concerned about the problem The process recently came to the fore again, of getting reside nts to its formal education ses­ and, approp riately. it was on Fogo Island. sions and meetings," Elain e re ports. " They have over 1500mem bers , but only 100were attending meetings. They wanted to overcom e this feeling of not belonging." The first meeting took place in mid-January and three months later the project, which used com­ munity TVand a porta ble trans mitter, took place. A crew from the Division of Educa tional 'Iechncl ­ ogy had interv iewed a cross-sec tion of fishermen and plantworkers , municipal councils and develop­ ment associations about a wide range of commu ­ nity topics. These formed par t of the broadcasts which took place in several communities on Fogo One of the pan els: (I-r) Wayne "olll ns, Asaist ant General Island. ".nager; C4r0p ; Wolfgang Uebel. General Mansger , Co­ " We were on the air eight nights from 4.00pm. 0Pi Jim Wint er , Federati on of co-cps: Roger Cart er, Ex­ to midnight or later," Elaine tells us."The broad ­ tenaion; aernadette Dwyer, President, Co-op; Clayton casts started with the singing of the Ode to New­ Rowe, Co-op dire ct or; Gus Faley, Co-op director. foundland and 0, Canada by elementary school students, followed by a two-hour documentary of the Co-op's history. The interviews covered everythingfromhiringpoliciesandchild care to wagesandincentives. Wethenhadlive interviews withsix membersoftheCo-op managementteam­ -aa-eaeh one was interviewed separately for up to 20minutes. Thiswas one panel, andthenwe had another panel of other people.and a combined panel.Wealso hadan entertainment sectionwith local performers, and the Interna tional Federation of Co-ops was also involved. Highschool students look part in discussions four times a night and they helped operate the cameras. Public response in terms of phoning in was excellent." The first two nights in smaller communities used tapes , butthe othersix nights includedlive broadcasts. During the transmission from the town of Fogo, fishermen in Change Islands also look part. "Thereweresome reallygoodcalls onthe open­ line shows and a lot of active participation:' Elaine notes. "The students were also very enthusiastic-none of those on the cameras had Local students took their tum at operating the cameras and video equipment. had any experiencebefore.Every community on Fogo Island tuned into the broadcasts and the peopl e interested in running for office and filled result was everything the Co-op had hoped for. every position for the first time, including fishplant "We put on the project in early April and the representati ves . The Co-op was so plea sed there next meeting of the Co-op had 400 people attend­ was a motion to repeat the projec t next year and ing,four times what they had before..------...;;:;They also had it passed unanim ously." nl 1

Suppliers OUshore /Onshore Marine, Industrial '& Olllleid

Fresh Cod Fish Coastal now appointed dealer for the world's leading Dressed outboards: Johnson and Evinrude. Cleanand skin a medium cod fish. Keep in shape.Sprinkle wi1b salt . Come in and visit our showroom and see our modern fUlly equipped service and parts department. Prepare dressing: 3 cups of bread crumbs 2 Ot . fat back pork, chopped For all your commercial fishing and marine boating flne supplies visit anyone of our 3 locations. I medium onion, cbopped salt to taste pepper to taste Head Office Branch Branch 465Kenmount Road Forest Hill Road Cresent Boulevard Mix together, lin fisb and pin together with seewer. Cover fISh P.O. Box 2216 Maple Valley MaryslOwn wilb pieces of salt pork, Place in 51. John 's. NF Indusllial Park Newfoundland ovenand bakelWhoursat 325"0 A1C 6E6 P.O. Box 46 AOE 1KO (709) 579-0159 Corner Brook. NF Toll free : A2H 6C3 Telephone: 1-800-563-3500 709-279-3663 Toll free: 1-800-563-7535 68 DECKS AWASH (d) in a garbage unit if: (i) the unit completely contains the fire and is ade­ GOVERNMENT OF quately 9C1eened to pr8Y8nI the escape 0I1paI'k:s or other bumlng malerial; and NEWFOUNDLAND (Ii) the unit is located on prtvtde property and at IMst fifty feet from any WOOdS, trees or bnJah. & LABRADOR <& . (1) Fires are not permitted undef su~graphs (b), (C) and (d) 01paragraph (3) of Regulation 3 when the fire Undef and by vil1ue of the powersconferred by the Forest hazard rating is very high Of extreme.. Fires Act and all other powersenabling me in this behalf, I (2) All permits issued und8f theM RegWalions ~ have made the following regulatkHls . are when a YfK'j high or axtremehazardratlng exists In the Dated at St. John 's this 30th . day 01 April , 1987. locality lor which the permit has been issued. LEN SIMMS 5 .(1) A penIOI"l shaI rdcanyon a logging Of sawmiling oper. Minister of Forest Resources and Lands ation in the "woods" during the "fofest fire ~.. ~i~r:;'j~%~=s:n~ REGULATIONS :es:r:: 1. These RegulatiOns n:'aybe ciled as the Forest F!re Regula­ Department. tions, 1987, and are In effect dunng the forest lire season . (2) The "operating permit" referred to in this Regulation shall specify: ,. 2. In these Regulations: (a) the conditions under which t~ k)gging Of S8WJ'lWI.. (a) "Forest Fire Season" means the period between t~e ing operations must be camed out; hours of midnighl on the 8th . of May, 1987 and mid­ (b) that forest fire suppression equipment shall be night of the 8th. day of September, 1987. proyided at the operating site in the following ratio: (b) "Department" means the Depal1ment of Forest Resources and Lands. Mell 8Ic:1I-PKII Grubblrsor (c) "Woods" means 'I'IOod, forest , track covered by under­ Employttl Pumltl Alas SbcMlI 'I'IOod, barren and dry marsh or bog . s cr Jess 1 1 1 (d) "logging operation',' means: 6-10 2 2 2 (i) any timber cutting operat!O'" carried out under a 11-15 3 3 3 commercial cutting permit. 16-20 <& 4 4 (ii) any timber cutting operalion carried out under a Over 20 Add 1 back pump. 1 axe and 2 grubbers or domestic cutting permit and involving three in­ shovels to the above figure tor each group dividuals or more. 01 5 extra men. (iii) any timber cutting opetlltiOn on private land cer­ (c) that unless allowed otherwise as provided for in ried out tor the purpose 01obtaining sawIogs. fuel­ (d) bekM, • fully functional forest fire pump of • 'I'IOod, fencing, fishing material,boat ~erial, or type __ by the ...... , Il all machinery and equi pment used on me con­ or pipe is not.made while the person Iightmg or smok­ struction projects must be so safe-guarded as to ing is in motion , muumee t~e posslbi llty of such machinery or (2) A Cigarette. cigar or pipe cannot be smoked in wood s equtpment InstlQ8ting a Ior':'st fire. by haVIng ex­ wtIikt the person smoKing same is in motion. haust pipe or pipes fitted WIth screens or baffles 13. Notwithstanding any othef' provision of these Regulations . 10 prevent the escape of sparks Of particles of burnt a person shall not carbon and shall also be equipped with a 2'h lb. Cal leave fire unanended. whether or not it is contained in ~dry~ , replaceable Shel type, a garbage disposal unit. a prepared cam p site. gaso­ pressunzed fire exll ngUlsher; line, kerosene . alcohol or pt'Op8ne--oper8!edstove or is (b) a P8.fSOO cond ueti ~ a construction PfOleetshall lit under permit; or proyide and maIntain adequate fire figtlCing eqUIp­ (b) leave the location of a fire ul'llilthe lire has been c0m­ ment strategICally located and in good 'NOl"king pletely extinguished. condition b the purpose of suppressing any forest 1• . A person who violates any prtMsion of Regulations is guilty fire whICh may be caused by the const ructio n of an offence and liable on summary ccrwcton to: project; Cal imprisonmeot for a period of not less than two weeks (c) a person engaged in lhe construction project shall and not exceeding two years ; or not cause or condone any situation or conditions (b) a fine of not less than two hundred and not exceeding ~nducive to the, ,starting of a forest lire ; and len thousand dollars. (dl il lS t~ responslbility at a personconducting a con­ stncucn pro,ectto see that adequate personnel are trained in the use of equipment referred to in Under and by virtue of the powers conferred by the Forest this paragraph . Travel Act. Chapter 14201 the Revised Statutes of Newlound­ (2) For Ihe purpose of this paragraph . fire fighting equip­ lancl, 1970, enabling me in this behalf . I have made the fol­ ment IS deemed to be adequate where it is provided lowing Order. . In the IoIlowlng rete of eqUIpment to the number of men engaged in the construction project : Dated at St. John 's this 30th . day of April . 1987. Men Back-PIck Grubbers or LEN SIMMS Employed Pumps Ala SbcMlll Minister of Forest Resou rces and Lands 2 - 5 1 1 1 6-10 2 2 2 11-15 3 3 3 ORDER 16-20 4 • 4 t , This Order may be citedaS"'The Forest Travel Restricted Area Order, 1987. Over 20 Add 1 back pum p. 1 axe and 2 shovels or ~rubbers to the above figure for each addit · 2. In this Order : IOnaI group of 5 men . (a) "Forest land " means any uncultivated land within the (b) A tully operat ional forest fire pump of a type ap­ Province upon whch are growing or standing trees or proved by the Forestry Branc h wit h a minimum of shrubs and includes dry marsh , bogtand and land c0m­ 1.500 feeeof hose is also requ ired on me site in monly known as " barrens". ~. of one such Unit for f1VfJry 20 men em- (b) " Ucenced guide" means a guide as defined i n t he Wi~ life Act, Chapter 400 of the Revised Stetctee of New­ a (:t~~~:~~~i~ot~~e=a~e~h~trovince except: :~Iand , 197'0, and holds a licence as defined by met (i1 the Ci~ies of St. John 's and Corner Brook; (c> "Non-resident" means a person other than a resid­ (il) a mUnicipalIty or Local Improvement District es­ ent. tablished under The Local Government Act; (d) "Resident" means : (iii) a com!"unity organized under The Community (i) A Canadian citizen who has resided in the Council s Act: or Province for a period 01 six consecutive months (iv) any other selUement : i~medialely (v) Terra Nova or Gros Marne National Parks' preceding his appli cation for a per­ h ig ~ay mit urcer ttns Order ; or Cb) a as defined in The Departm ent of Highways Cii) Any P8fSOI'\ other than a Canadiarlcitizen, who has Act WhIChis vested in Her Majesty In right at Newfound­ resided in the Province for a period of twelve con­ land under that Act; and secutive months immedial~, preced ing his appli­ (c) persons who are requ ired 10 be in a restricled area in calion lor a perrnll under thiS Order, the cou rse of their duty under any statute. 10 - DECKS AWASH

The Puffin is king, long live the Puffin

In our last issue, the Natural History Society of Newfoundland and Labrador invited readers to vote for a provincial bird. Well, vote you did, in numbers that were surpris­ ing and gratifying, especially since community papers did not run the story. Many votes came on ballots from Decks Awash. other newspaper bal­ lots, yet more in letters, and a few written hastily on items as practical as beer carton material! when the votes were finally totalled, there was a clear winner-the Atlantic Puffin. Tbe heavy vot­ ing by school classes gave the Puffin a clea r lead over the Common Loonand Osprey, but it was two boors before the votes were tabulated and the win­ ner declared. The final standings were: Altantic Puffin 1,289 votes Common Leon 949 votes Osprey 786 votes Willow Ptarmigan 540 votes Thickbilled Murre 242 votes Common Eider 133 votes Now that the Puffin has been se lected, an offi­ like waiting for a seat in the House to become va­ cial bill must be passed by the House of Assem­ cant. Will Clyde Wells or the Atlantic Puffin claim bly before the proclamation can be made. It 's just a place first- we'll have to wait and see!

The sdentlflc c..... lrom MernoNI Unhrersity aboard the CSS BaffIn : Watch lOt'details In .n upcoming Issue 01Decks AwMh.

Tips from the Chle keu Info rmation Une 139-7363 in St . Jnhn'~ . Whencooking chicken on the barbecue. shape the coals to suit the pieces being cooked.Use circular rings of coal for whole chicken on the spit. and en cverall Oat bed of coals for chicken pieces or halves. Long narrow ~'S of coals a re best (or kabo bs.

Chicken will cook faster with the bone side down for a longer period of time because the bones con­ duct the heat better. The bones also preven t the mea t from drying out.

Th keep the juices in when barbecuing chicken, do not test it unti l )"00 are sure it is almost ready. Make as small 3 cut a possible to avoid leakage of the juices. DECKS AWASH - 71

letters

I want to thankyou and all associat­ Please renew my subscription to While readin g back through last ed with the magazine for the joy it Decks Awash . I enjoy reading it as I year's splendid Decks Awash publica­ gave my father, Michael Dwyer, who am a sen ior (74) who came from an tions , my attention agai n became fo­ died in March 1986. He looked forward outport on the Great Northern cus ed on Mr. Sta rkes' well-preserved to receiving it and he certainly could Peninsula. copy of the Royal School Pr imer. Was relate to so many of the articles, pic­ Peter Bailey the Royal School Series a forerunner tures, etc. He read it from cover 10 St. J ohn's, NF to the Royal Crown Series? It seems cover and then passed it on 10his rela­ 10me that I began my sc hooling with tives and friends from Newfoundland. Would it be poss ible for an issue of a Royal Crown Pri mer. My great­ My father's love for Newfoundland your tremendously info rmative grandfather was a village school­ was great. He left there as a teenager magazine to dea l with Place ntia On­ master from 1850to 1869inclusive, and to see k work in the United States but c1uding Jerseyslde) itself? I have he used grade books known as the Ir­ Newfoundland was always "home". grea t admiration for Pla centi a as I'm ish Nati onal Series. On June, 30, 1858, Tha nk you again. sure many of your rea ders m ust have. his school inspect or wrote: "c..second Sister Jane :'tlichael (Dwyer) My mother, toget her with my two sis­ class rea d in Second Book of Irish Na­ Chelsea, Massachusetts, USA ters and two brothers and I were born tional Series well". at J ers eyside-my fat her was born I have tried in vain to locate this ser ­ Somet ime ago a friend of mine gave just a hop a nd a skip away at Ar­ ies overseas. so it may well have been me a copy of your magazine Dec ks gentla. a North Ameri can publication . Can Awash and I was really impressed Dad was a MHA from 1913 to 1934, a ny rea der throw some light on the with its contents about the people and and was Minis ter of Agr iculture and mys tery? Even a photocopied page the outports. I am a Newfoundla nder Mines in five differe nt govern ments. would be very much a pprec ia ted . and love the unique way of life in the My mother, Annie M. Kemp, was a Thank you very much for your at­ var ious coastal regions of Newfound­ school tea cher at Jerseysideand Out­ tention. lan d. Keep up the excellent work. er Cove (St. Jo hn's east). Reginald J . Coates Wallace Hussey W. J . Walsh 31 O'Reill y Street Fort McMurray. Alberta St. John 's , NF St. John's, NF AtE 3HZ

This week, my cousin, Milton EXTERIOR Peac h, MHA for Carbonear District, sent me a copy of the March-April Deck s Awash. I had grow n up on the PROTECTION Nort h Shore: 1904-11 a t Freshwater an d 1911-19at Sma ll Point. I attended the Methodi st College (1919-22 ) and ta ught at Gree n's Har bour 0 922-23), then left the Rock for high er educa­ tion. I went back for very short trips in 1974 and 1978, both in connection with Pike proper ty belonging to my wife in Fortune. All this leads up to the Decks Awash issue on Carbonear. Whoever wrote the histo ry was una ware of the exis­ tence of my "opus " The Willoughby Story (published by the Carbonear ASK US Her ita ge Society) a nd other materi­ al readily available. But he did have We'll gIve you exter ior protection with quality material I had not consulted. MATCHLESS PAINTS formulated to w ith stand the rigors of our Atlantic Canada climate. The However, if he had consulted my lit­ SAVINCSare t he same and when It's MATCHLESS tle work , he could have seen a facsi­ you can be sure of OUALITY PAINTS with long m ile of a letter written from last in g du rability that resist fading, blistering Carbonear by Nicholas Guy 10 his and pee ling. sponsor, Sir Percival Willoughby of MAR ITIME QUALITY FOR MARINE CONDITIONS. Wallalon Hall.Nottingha m. England, on September 1, 1631. Guy was the • origina l settler in Carbonear about MATCHLESS PAl HTS 1629. He had moved his family from Cupids at the request of Sir Percival, who had a grant from the original Newfoundland Compa ny of the lop of L STANDARD MANUFACTURING ....JI the Conception-Trinity peninsula 12 - DECKS AWASH

north of a line drawn from the head As I send this slip which I have which should be protected for future of Carbonear harbor over to Heart's taken from Decks Awash, the par­ generations. Content. tridge is my choice for provincial bird. George H. Clarke Even the latest histories of New­ I rememberwhen I was a boy when Brigus Gullies foundland are full of errors and guess­ in at the pond fishing trout in the even­ es because of dependence on earlier ings the 'chattering of the partridge historical efforts. Nicholas Guy's wife and also loon on the pond. Now they Letters to:the editor should be ad­ had come over to join him at Cupids are just about disappeared-I don't dressed to Decks Awash. Memorial in June 1612. Their son was born see or hear them at all here at Brigus UniverSity,St. John's, NF, Ale 551. A~'.a$.h March Z1,1613,at Cupids, twodaysbe­ Gullies. Otcb reserves the right.to edit fore the arrival of the relief ship Hope. I am very interested in wild life letters fut ·PurJXlSeS .or clarity or The winters of 1610-11 and 1611-12 space. had been exceptionally mild, but many did not know this. Even in February John Guy took his daily dip in the local brook, But the winter of 1612-13was simply terrible. probably worse then 198&87. John Guy was so discouraged. he went home on the Hope and never came back. But you can learn all about it in The Willough­ by Story. I have "scattered" copies of Decks Awash, still treasured in my chaotic den. With this letter I am sending for a subscription. Cecil J. Reynolds Stillwater. :\laine

I will watch for further information on the bird of Newfoundlandin further is­ sues of Uecks Awash,

Stella Holton Fishermen preparing cod traps at St. Stephen'S. Bramalea, Ontario

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