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Queensland Today...... 284 The big issues around the Sunshine State: politics, the economy, crazy weather and the Reef. But how are the locals holding up?

His tory...... 286 From the early convict hardships to the recent boom times, Queensland’s history is a tale of extreme characters and events.

Clima te Change & the Great Barrier Reef ...... 296 is hotting up, and the gorgeous Great Barrier Reef off the Queensland coast has noticed the change.

T he Arts in Queensland ...... 301 The sun is shining and the surf is rolling in, but that doesn’t mean Queenslanders aren’t busy being arty. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 284

Queensland Today Queensland has always been a land of boom, bust and opportunity, a pattern played out over and over again on economic, political and environmental fronts. Western Australia has taken over as Australia’s fastest growing state, but the sun still shines on Queensland: Bris- bane can rightly claim its mantle of ‘Australia’s New World City’, and the Great Barrier Reef remains a gorgeous technicolour vision.

Best on Film The Big Wet Continues Praise (director John Curran; 1998) Much of eastern Australia was wracked by drought Two mismatched 20-something lovers for the first decade of this century: this ended in 2011 in down-and-out . with record rainfalls across Queensland. The drought Muriel’s Wedding (director PJ Hogan; was over, but floods inundated dozens of towns, affect- 1994) Comedic misadventures of ing one million sq km – roughly the size of France and socially awkward dreamer Muriel (Toni Germany combined. The Brisbane River broke its banks, Collette). flooding vast stretches of Brisbane and destroying the Australia (director Baz Luhrmann; city’s prized network of riverside walkways. 2008) Sweeping epic filmed around Then, in 2013, southeast Queensland was again inun- Bowen on the Whitsunday Coast.. dated, this time by the tail-end of Tropical Cyclone Os- Dead Calm (director Phillip Noyce; wald, which immersed Bundaberg and parts of Brisbane 1989) Nicole Kidman gets nervous on in river water again. Residents of low-lying suburbs a yacht in the Great Barrier Reef. wrung themselves dry and started rebuilding (again). The Coolangatta Gold (director Igor Auzins; 1984) Critically derided ‘80s Meanwhile, Out on the Reef Gold Coast surf-lifesaving saga. Many climatologists believe these floods are yet more evidence of climate change wreaking havoc on Queens- Best in Print land’s weather. Climate change remains a hot topic It’s Raining in Mango (Thea Astley; here (no pun intended) – particularly when it comes to 1987) Fortunes and failures of a Queensland’s biggest tourist attraction, the Great Bar- pioneer family in Cooktown. rier Reef. As sea temperatures rise, marine researchers Carpentaria (Alexis Wright; 2006) predict disastrous consequences for the reef. Some esti- Indigenous writer Alexis Wright’s tale mates place the near-total devastation of the reef within of the fictional town of Desperence. the next 50 years. This destruction is unthinkable on Johnno (David Malouf; 1975) Coming- many fronts – not least of which is the catastrophic eco- of-age tale set in 1940s Brisbane. nomic consequences: the Great Barrier Reef generates He Died with a Felafel in his Hand an estimated $4 billion in annual tourism revenue. (John Birmingham; 1994) Grungy share-house life in Brisbane and Good Times, Bad Times beyond. When the 2008 global financial crisis erupted, Queens- Reminiscences of Early Queensland land was ready to weather the storm. An ongoing eco- (Tom Petrie; 1904) A bushman’s story nomic boom fuelled by tourism and mining was luring of life with Aboriginal peoples. about 1000 Aussies per week into southeast Queensland in 2007. But the boom went bust: the global economy stuttered and Queensland’s growth slumped to just 0.2% in 2011. A depressed housing market, downturns