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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 472 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS John Lee Special thanks to Maggie for ensuring my sanity Many thanks to the travelers who used the last and delivering copious amounts of tea during the edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful write-up for this project. Thanks also to our feline advice and interesting anecdotes: companion Max for grooming my beard on a regular Amy Finkel, Andrea Jepson, Ann Krumboltz, Cheryl basis. And cheers to my buddy Dominic for joining Edwards, Christian Grant, Fiona Koza, Iain Macniven, me on that elongated Vancouver Island road-trip. Jane Wells, Joe Kaiser, Kate Mansell, Richard Sincere apologies to all my other Vancouver friends O’Meara, Roman Nadler and Tobias Leenaert. and family for being stuck to my keyboard for so long; I’m more than ready for a beer or two now. WRITER THANKS Becky Ohlsen Brendan Sainsbury Becky would like to thank Alex Howard, Celeste Thanks to all the untold bus drivers, chefs, hotel Brash, Mike Russell, Ryan at Beulahland, Patrick receptionists, tour guides, and innocent bystanders Goodall, Joel and Christina Ohlsen and everyone else who helped me during this research. Special thanks she pestered with questions along the way. to my wife Liz and 10-year-old son Kieran for their company on the road. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Celeste Brash Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson Thanks to my husband Josh and kids Jasmine and BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Tevai, to the Irwins in Spokane, Jackie Caplan- Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Auerbach and family in Bellingham, the Joneses Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. in Olympia, the Pilot/Forsters in Port Angeles, Iain Cover photograph: Orca, San Juan Islands, WA; on Orcas, park rangers, tourist info people, random roclwyr/Getty © people met along the ways and so many more! 473 Destination Editor Alexander Dobbin, Carly Hall, Victoria THIS BOOK Howard Harrison, Kellie Langdon, This 7th edition of Lonely Plan- Product Editor Kate Mathews Jodie Martire, Kate Morgan, Anne Mulvaney, Monique et’s Washington, Oregon & the Regional Senior Perrin, Ross Taylor, Sam Pacific Northwest guidebook Cartographer Alison Lyall was researched and written by Trafford Senior Cartographer Corey Brendan Sainsbury, Celeste Hutchison Cover Researcher Naomi Brash, John Lee and Becky Parker Book Designer Gwen Cotter Ohlsen. They also contributed Thanks to Andi Jones, Claire Assisting Editors Sarah to the previous two editions, Naylor, Karyn Noble, Martine Bailey, Imogen Bannister, along with Sandra Bao. This Power, Kirsten Rawlings guidebook was produced by Michelle Bennett, Andrea the following: ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 474 Index A Bellingham 22, 95-9 Cashmere 187 Cowichan Valley 407-9 Aberdeen 142-3 Bend 281-5 Castle Rock 184 Crane Prairie Reservoir 287 accommodations 52, 53, Benton City 193 Celilo Falls 269 Crater Lake National Park 298, 458-9, see also bicycling 21, 43-4, 466-7, see cell phones 20 13, 334-7, 335, 5, 13 individual locations also mountain biking Centralia 124 credit cards 20 activities 27-9, 41-50, 45, see Portland 217-18, 221 Champoeg State Heritage Crescent Lake 287 also individual activities San Juan Islands 107 Area 242-3 Crystal Mountain 153, 175-6 air travel 465, 466 bird-watching 453 Charleston 313-14 culture 434-42 Alaska 446 Colville National Forest 208 Chelan 165, 167-9 currency 20 Alaskan Way Viaduct 22 eastern Oregon 362-3 Chemainus 408-9 current affairs 424-5 Alvord Desert 365 Portland 230 Chihuly, Dale 63, 440 customs regulations 459-60 Anacortes 100 southern Oregon 340, 341 children, travel with 51-3 cycling, see bicycling, animals 450-4, see also Vancouver Island 397 Oregon Coast 297 mountain biking individual species Washington Cascades Portland 218 Cypress Island 115 architecture 441-2 156-7 Clark, William 145, 147, Cypress Mountain 377 area codes 21 birds 453, see also 427-8, 429 art 440-1 individual species climate 20, 27-9, see also art galleries, see museums Blue Mountains 355 individual regions D & galleries boat travel, see ferry travel climbing Dalles, the 267-70 Ashford 170-3 Bodie 201 central Oregon 281 Deception Pass State Park 103 Ashland 58, 320, 322-5, 321 Bonneville Dam 262 central Washington 184 Denny Triangle 69 Astoria 291-4 books 424, 439-40 Mt Hood 275 Depoe Bay 303 ATMs 20 border crossings 52, 465 northwestern Washington Diablo Lake 158 Brentwood Bay 406-7 95 Diamond Craters 362-3 breweries, see beer, Olympic National Park 136 B microbreweries Washington Cascades Diamond Lake 333 Babyfoot Lake 331 Brookings 318-19 152, 170-2 dietary restrictions 449 Bainbridge Island 91 budget 21 Cobain, Kurt 142, 143, 438 disabilities, travelers with Baker City 354-6 463-4 Burns 360-2 coffee 17, 444, 17 Baker Lake 157 discount cards 460 bus travel 466, 467-9 Coleman Glacier 152 Baker Mountain 99 distilleries 73, 83, 445 business hours 21 Columbia River Gorge 16, 57, bald eagles 453 258-70, 260-1, 16 diving 50 Klamath Basin National climate 258 dog sledding 183 Wildlife Refuge 340 C highlights 260-1 drinks 443-5, see also beer, Upper Skagit Bald Eagle Camp Sherman 278 coffee, distilleries, wine, Area 156-7 road trips 37 wineries Campbell River 417-18 Columbia River Hwy 259 Vancouver Island 397 Cannon Beach 296-8 driving, see car travel banana slugs 454 Colville 207-8 drugs 22, 84, 461-2 canoeing, see kayaking Colville National Forest 207-8 Bandon 314-15 Cape Blanco State Park 316 Duncan 407-8 beaches 23-4 Comox Valley 416-17 Dundee 244-5 Cape Disappointment 145 Coos Bay 312-13 Beacon Rock State Park 263 Cape Flattery 137-8 dune buggying 308 Beard, James 446 Copper Creek 170-3 Cape Scott Provincial Corvallis 250-2 beer 12, 443-4, 12, see also Park 418 Coupeville 104-5 E microbreweries car travel 53, 466, 469-71, courses Eagle Creek Recreation Area brewing courses 218 see also road trips 259, 262 brewing 218 festivals & events 292 Carbon River 174-5 Easton Glacier 152 cooking 218 Carnation 92 Ebey’s Landing National glassblowing 73, 218, 301 Cascade Lakes 286-7 Historical Reserve 105 Map Pages tree climbing 253 000 Cascade Locks 259-63 Ecola State Park 296-7 Cowichan Bay 408 Photo Pages 000 Cascadia Marine Trail 104 economy 425 475 Electric City 205-7 central Washington 187 Columbia River Gorge Malheur National Wildlife electricity 455, 460 Eastern Oregon 347 259, 262, 263, 270 Refuge 363 elk 450, 2 Olympic National Park eastern Oregon 348, hockey 386-7 352-3, 355, 358 Ellensburg 190-1 131, 133, 134 Hoh Rain Forest 15, 135-6, 15 Methow Valley 162 Elmer City 205-7 Olympic Peninsula 139 holidays 462 Mt Baker 152-3 Elwha River dam 137 Oregon Coast 318 Hood River 264-7 San Juan Islands 117 Mt Rainier National Park Hoquiam 142-3 INDEX emergencies 21 Area 170, 172, 175, 176 southern Oregon 333, 337 horseback riding 50 Emmons Glacier 174 Mt St Helens 176, 178 Washington Cascades central Washington 184 Empire Builder 206 North Cascades National 157, 162, 165, 167 eastern Oregon 348 Enchanted Valley 135 Park 158-9 E- Washington coast 144, 148 northwestern Enchantment Lakes 187 northwestern K Willamette Valley 256 Washington 113 Enterprise 348-9 Washington 99, 105 Floras Lake 315 Oregon coast 308-9 environmental issues 455-6 Olympic National Park Florence 308-10 Washington Cascades 166 Eugene 252-6 130, 131-3, 134-6 food 25, 460, 466-9 Hosmer Lake 287 events, see festivals & Olympic Peninsula 128, events carts 16, 226, 447-8, 16 138-9 hot springs 17, 26, 133, 17 exchange rates 21 cheese 300 Oregon Cascades 280 Alvord Desert 365 cooking courses 218, 448 Oregon coast 295, 297, Bagby Hot Springs 248 family-friendly dining 53 299, 301, 310-11, 317 Breitenbush Hot Springs F festivals 253-4, 265, 292, Portland 217-18 248 farmers markets & stands 447, 449 San Juan Islands 113 Crystal Crane Hot central Washington 187 football 87 southern Oregon 332, Springs 361 Columbia River Gorge 264 forests, see national parks 333, 335, 337, 338 Hot Springs Cove 415 Hood River County Fruit & forests Stehekin 165, 166 Umpqua Hot Springs 332 Loop 266 Forks 139-40 Upper Skagit River Olympia 121 fossils 358, 359 Valley 157 Salt Spring Island 420 Frenchglen 364 Vancouver Island 397, 413 I Ilwaco 147-8 southern Oregon 329 fruit stands, see farmers Washington Coast 145 Imnaha River Valley 353 Vancouver (BC) 370 markets & stands Whistler 391 itineraries 30-3, 34-40, 30, Vancouver (WA) 149 Willamette Valley 256 31, 32, 33 ferry travel 22, 467, 468 Historic Columbia River G Hwy 259 festivals & events 27-9 Galiano Island 421-2 historical parks & reserves, Apple Festival 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