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Washington, Oregon & the Pacific Northwest 7

Washington, Oregon & the Pacific Northwest 7

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 472

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

OUR READERS John Lee Special thanks to Maggie for ensuring my sanity Many thanks to the travelers who used the last and delivering copious amounts of tea during the edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful write-up for this project. Thanks also to our feline advice and interesting anecdotes: companion Max for grooming my beard on a regular Amy Finkel, Andrea Jepson, Ann Krumboltz, Cheryl basis. And cheers to my buddy Dominic for joining Edwards, Christian Grant, Fiona Koza, Iain Macniven, me on that elongated Vancouver Island road-trip. Jane Wells, Joe Kaiser, Kate Mansell, Richard Sincere apologies to all my other Vancouver friends O’Meara, Roman Nadler and Tobias Leenaert. and family for being stuck to my keyboard for so long; I’m more than ready for a beer or two now. WRITER THANKS Becky Ohlsen Brendan Sainsbury Becky would like to thank Alex Howard, Celeste Thanks to all the untold bus drivers, chefs, hotel Brash, Mike Russell, Ryan at Beulahland, Patrick receptionists, tour guides, and innocent bystanders Goodall, Joel and Christina Ohlsen and everyone else who helped me during this research. Special thanks she pestered with questions along the way. to my wife Liz and 10-year-old son Kieran for their company on the road. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Celeste Brash Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson Thanks to my husband Josh and kids Jasmine and BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Tevai, to the Irwins in Spokane, Jackie Caplan- Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Auerbach and family in Bellingham, the Joneses Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. in Olympia, the Pilot/Forsters in Port Angeles, Iain Cover photograph: Orca, , WA; on Orcas, park rangers, tourist info people, random roclwyr/Getty © people met along the ways and so many more! 473

Destination Editor Alexander Dobbin, Carly Hall, Victoria THIS BOOK Howard Harrison, Kellie Langdon, This 7th edition of Lonely Plan- Product Editor Kate Mathews Jodie Martire, Kate Morgan, Anne Mulvaney, Monique et’s , & the Regional Senior Perrin, Ross Taylor, Sam guidebook Cartographer Alison Lyall was researched and written by Trafford Senior Cartographer Corey Brendan Sainsbury, Celeste Hutchison Cover Researcher Naomi Brash, John Lee and Becky Parker Book Designer Gwen Cotter Ohlsen. They also contributed Thanks to Andi Jones, Claire Assisting Editors Sarah to the previous two editions, Naylor, Karyn Noble, Martine Bailey, Imogen Bannister, along with Sandra Bao. This Power, Kirsten Rawlings guidebook was produced by Michelle Bennett, Andrea the following: ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 474

Index

A Bellingham 22, 95-9 Cashmere 187 Cowichan Valley 407-9 Aberdeen 142-3 Bend 281-5 Castle Rock 184 Crane Prairie Reservoir 287 accommodations 52, 53, Benton City 193 269 Crater Lake National Park 298, 458-9, see also bicycling 21, 43-4, 466-7, see cell phones 20 13, 334-7, 335, 5, 13 individual locations also mountain biking Centralia 124 credit cards 20 activities 27-9, 41-50, 45, see Portland 217-18, 221 Champoeg State Heritage Crescent Lake 287 also individual activities San Juan Islands 107 Area 242-3 Crystal Mountain 153, 175-6 air travel 465, 466 bird-watching 453 Charleston 313-14 culture 434-42 Alaska 446 208 Chelan 165, 167-9 currency 20 Alaskan Way Viaduct 22 eastern Oregon 362-3 Chemainus 408-9 current affairs 424-5 Alvord Desert 365 Portland 230 Chihuly, Dale 63, 440 customs regulations 459-60 Anacortes 100 southern Oregon 340, 341 children, travel with 51-3 cycling, see bicycling, animals 450-4, see also Vancouver Island 397 297 mountain biking individual species Washington Cascades Portland 218 Cypress Island 115 architecture 441-2 156-7 Clark, William 145, 147, Cypress Mountain 377 area codes 21 birds 453, see also 427-8, 429 art 440-1 individual species climate 20, 27-9, see also art galleries, see museums Blue Mountains 355 individual regions D & galleries boat travel, see ferry travel climbing Dalles, the 267-70 Ashford 170-3 Bodie 201 central Oregon 281 State Park 103 Ashland 58, 320, 322-5, 321 262 central Washington 184 Denny Triangle 69 Astoria 291-4 books 424, 439-40 Mt Hood 275 Depoe Bay 303 ATMs 20 border crossings 52, 465 northwestern Washington Diablo Lake 158 Brentwood Bay 406-7 95 Diamond Craters 362-3 breweries, see beer, 136 B microbreweries Washington Cascades Diamond Lake 333 Babyfoot Lake 331 Brookings 318-19 152, 170-2 dietary restrictions 449 Bainbridge Island 91 budget 21 Cobain, Kurt 142, 143, 438 disabilities, travelers with Baker City 354-6 463-4 Burns 360-2 coffee 17, 444, 17 Baker Lake 157 discount cards 460 bus travel 466, 467-9 Coleman Glacier 152 Baker Mountain 99 distilleries 73, 83, 445 business hours 21 Gorge 16, 57, bald eagles 453 258-70, 260-1, 16 diving 50 Klamath Basin National climate 258 dog sledding 183 Wildlife Refuge 340 C highlights 260-1 drinks 443-5, see also beer, Upper Skagit Bald Eagle Camp Sherman 278 coffee, distilleries, wine, Area 156-7 road trips 37 wineries Campbell River 417-18 Columbia River Hwy 259 Vancouver Island 397 Cannon Beach 296-8 driving, see car travel banana slugs 454 Colville 207-8 drugs 22, 84, 461-2 canoeing, see kayaking Colville National Forest 207-8 Bandon 314-15 State Park 316 Duncan 407-8 beaches 23-4 Comox Valley 416-17 Dundee 244-5 Cape Disappointment 145 Coos Bay 312-13 263 Cape Flattery 137-8 dune buggying 308 Beard, James 446 Copper Creek 170-3 Cape Scott Provincial Corvallis 250-2 beer 12, 443-4, 12, see also Park 418 Coupeville 104-5 E microbreweries car travel 53, 466, 469-71, courses Eagle Creek Recreation Area brewing courses 218 see also road trips 259, 262 brewing 218 festivals & events 292 Carbon River 174-5 Easton Glacier 152 cooking 218 Carnation 92 Ebey’s Landing National glassblowing 73, 218, 301 Cascade Lakes 286-7 Historical Reserve 105 Map Pages tree climbing 253 000 Cascade Locks 259-63 296-7 Cowichan Bay 408 Photo Pages 000 Cascadia Marine Trail 104 economy 425 475 Electric City 205-7 central Washington 187 Malheur National Wildlife electricity 455, 460 Eastern Oregon 347 259, 262, 263, 270 Refuge 363 elk 450, 2 Olympic National Park eastern Oregon 348, hockey 386-7 352-3, 355, 358 Ellensburg 190-1 131, 133, 134 Hoh Rain Forest 15, 135-6, 15 Methow Valley 162 Elmer City 205-7 Olympic Peninsula 139 holidays 462 Mt Baker 152-3 Elwha River dam 137 Oregon Coast 318 Hood River 264-7 San Juan Islands 117 Mt Rainier National Park Hoquiam 142-3 INDEX emergencies 21 Area 170, 172, 175, 176 southern Oregon 333, 337 horseback riding 50 Emmons Glacier 174 Mt St Helens 176, 178 Washington Cascades central Washington 184 Empire Builder 206 North Cascades National 157, 162, 165, 167 eastern Oregon 348 -Enchanted Valley 135 Park 158-9  E Washington coast 144, 148 northwestern Enchantment Lakes 187 northwestern  K Willamette Valley 256 Washington 113 Enterprise 348-9 Washington 99, 105 315 Oregon coast 308-9 environmental issues 455-6 Olympic National Park Florence 308-10 Washington Cascades 166 Eugene 252-6 130, 131-3, 134-6 food 25, 460, 466-9 Hosmer Lake 287 events, see festivals & Olympic Peninsula 128, events carts 16, 226, 447-8, 16 138-9 hot springs 17, 26, 133, 17 exchange rates 21 cheese 300 Oregon Cascades 280 Alvord Desert 365 cooking courses 218, 448 Oregon coast 295, 297, Bagby Hot Springs 248 family-friendly dining 53 299, 301, 310-11, 317 Breitenbush Hot Springs F festivals 253-4, 265, 292, Portland 217-18 248 farmers markets & stands 447, 449 San Juan Islands 113 Crystal Crane Hot central Washington 187 football 87 southern Oregon 332, Springs 361 Columbia River Gorge 264 forests, see national parks 333, 335, 337, 338 Hot Springs Cove 415 Hood River County Fruit & forests Stehekin 165, 166 Umpqua Hot Springs 332 Loop 266 Forks 139-40 Upper Olympia 121 fossils 358, 359 Valley 157 Salt Spring Island 420 Frenchglen 364 Vancouver Island 397, 413 I Ilwaco 147-8 southern Oregon 329 fruit stands, see farmers Washington Coast 145 Imnaha River Valley 353 Vancouver (BC) 370 markets & stands Whistler 391 itineraries 30-3, 34-40, 30, Vancouver (WA) 149 Willamette Valley 256 31, 32, 33 ferry travel 22, 467, 468 Historic Columbia River G Hwy 259 festivals & events 27-9 Galiano Island 421-2 historical parks & reserves, Apple Festival 385-6 galleries, see museums & J Bard on the Beach 385 see also national parks Jacksonville 327 galleries & forests, state parks & beer 292 James Island 115 gardens, see parks & reserves Britt Festival 327 356-7 gardens Champoeg State Bumbershoot Music & ghost towns 201 Heritage Area 242-3 John Day Fossil Beds National Monument 17, Arts Festival 29, 13 Gibsons 394-5 Ebey’s Landing National 358-9, 17 Christmas 184 glassblowing 63, 73, 92, Historical Reserve 105 Jones Island 115 Ellensburg Rodeo 190 218, 301, 440 Fort Langley National food 253-4, 265, 292 GLBT travellers 460 Historic Site 377 Joseph 349-51 Forever Twilight Festival Gold Beach 317-18 Fort Walla Walla Park 196 140 Goonies 291 Kam Wah Chung State K Hempfest 84 Gorge Amphitheater 191 Heritage Site 356 331 Holiday Ale Festival 222 Grand Coulee 205-7 Klondike Gold Rush kayaking 46-7, 47 National Historical International Pinot Noir Grand Coulee Dam 205-7 Cascadia Marine Trail 104 Celebration 246 Park 67-8 Grants Pass 328-9 central Oregon 283 Mt Baker Legendary Lewis & Clark National Grays Harbor 141-4 northwestern Banked Slalom 155 Historical Park 291-2 Guemes Island 101 Washington 96 music 13, 439, 441 Orcas Island Historical Olympic Peninsula 126 Oktoberfest 184 Museum 113 Oregon coast 299, Oregon Shakespeare San Juan Island National H Historical Park 301, 315 Festival 14, 27, 324, Halfway 353-4 14 (American Camp) 109 Portland 218 Pendleton Round-Up 343 hang gliding 50 San Juan Island National San Juan Islands 107 Portland International Hat Point 353 Historical Park Southern Gulf Islands Film Festival 221 Haystack Rock 296 (English Camp) 109 420, 421 UFO Festival 246 health 460-1 Vancouver National southern Oregon 337-9 Victorian Days 126 Hells Canyon 352-3 Historic Reserve 148-9 Sunshine Coast 395 Wordstock 222 hiking 23, 41-2 history 426-33, 428 Vancouver (BC) 378 films 424, 438-9 central Oregon 274, 278, geological 451 Vancouver Island 397 fish 451, 455 281, 287-8 grunge 437-8 Washington Cascades fishing 49, 292 central Washington Lewis & Clark 145, 147, 157, 168 central Oregon 276, 303 184, 188 427-8, 429 Kennewick 195-6 476 Kerouac, Jack 162 Maupin 276-7 Center for Wooden of Kettle Falls 208 Mayne Island 421 Boats 69 History & Art 95 killer whales, see orcas Mazama 160-1 Chihuly Garden & Wing Luke Museum kiteboarding 47, 265 McKenzie Region 256-7 Glass 63 of the Asian Pacific American kitesurfing 315 McMinnville 245-7 Columbia River Maritime Museum 291 Experience 68 Klamath Basin National Medford 325-7 mushrooms 446 Wildlife Refuges 341 Craigdarroch Castle 396 INDEX INDEX Methow Valley 160, 161 music 25, 437, 438, see Klamath Falls 339-41 Douglas County Museum Metolius River 277-8 334 also Cobain, Kurt microbreweries 12, 22 Engine 374 Pavilion 370 festivals 13, 439, 441 central Oregon 284-5 K- L Favell Museum of  northwestern N La Conner 101-2 Western Art & Indian  Washington 97-8 N La Grande 346-8 Artifacts 339 Portland 231-3 Nahcotta 145-6 La Push 140-1 Four Rivers Cultural Seattle 82, 83, 85 Center 360 Nanaimo 409-11 Lake Crescent 131 Frye Art Museum 69 national parks & forests 42 Lake Quinault 134-5 Vancouver Island 414- 15, 417 Henry Art Gallery 71 Lake Shannon 157 186-7 Willamette Valley 255 High Desert Museum 281 Lake Union 68 Colville National Forest Mirror Lake 274 Hot Art Wet City 371 Lake Wenatchee 187 207-8 mobile phones 20 Jordan Schnitzer Mu- Lakeview 364 Crater Lake National Park Molson 201 seum of Art 253 Langley 105 13, 334-7, 335, 5, 13 money 20, 21 Makah Museum 138 Langlois 315 Lake Roosevelt National 112-13 Marsh’s Free Museum Recreation Area 206 language 20 146 mountain biking 43-4, see Mt Rainier National Park Leavenworth 183-6 Maryhill Museum of also bicycling Area 10, 169-75, , legal matters 461-2 Art 270 171 central Oregon 274, 281-2 10, 48 marijuana 22, 84, 461-2 Miniature World 396 central Washington North Cascades National Lemolo Lake 333 Museum of 184, 188 Park 158-60, 154-5 Leslie Gulch 361 Anthropology 375 Columbia River Gorge Olympic National Park Lewis, Meriwether 145, 147, Museum of Flight 71 265, 270 15, 130-41, 15, 24 427-8, 429 Museum of Glass 92 Eastern Oregon 350 Pacific Rim National Lime Kiln Point State northwestern Museum of History & Park Reserve 412-13 Park 109 Washington 96, 99, 105 Industry 68-9 Lincoln City 301-3 Native American culture & Olympic Peninsula 128 Museum of Natural & history 12, 426-7, 432-3, Little Lava Lake 287 Cultural History 252 San Juan Islands 107, 113 440-1, 12 Long Beach 145, 146-7 Museum of Pop Culture Vancouver (BC) 377 Celilo Falls 269 Long Beach Peninsula 63 Washington Cascades Columbia Hills Historical 144-8 National Historic Oregon 165-6, 167 State Park 268 Lopez Island 116-18 Trail Interpretive Whistler 391 Center 354 Favell Museum of Lost Lake 273 motorcycle travel 466, 469- Nordic Heritage Museum Western Art & Indian Lower Deschutes River 70, see also car travel 70 Artifacts 339 276-7 mountain climbing, Olympic Sculpture Park Makah Museum 138 Lower Skagit River Valley see climbing 63, 66 Museum of Natural & 100-3 Mt Adams 179-80 Oregon Historical Cultural History 252 Lummi Island 99 Mt Bachelor 282 Society 211 Northwest Museum of Lynden 99 Mt Baker 152-6 Pioneer Museum 300 Arts & Culture 201 Mt Constitution 112-13 Roedde House Museum Seattle 72 Mt Hood 19, 273-6, 19 370 Tamástslikt Cultural M Institute 343 Mann Lake 365 Mt Jefferson 277-8 Royal BC Museum 396 Warm Springs Indian Mt Mazama 336 Schneider Museum of Manzanita 298-9 Reservation 282 marijuana 22, 84, 461-2 Mt Olympus 136 Art 322 South Slough National Whistler Museum & markets, see also farmers Mt Rainier National Park Archives 390 markets & stands Area 10, 169-75, 171, Estuarine Research Reserve 313 Yakama Nation Museum Granville Island Public 10, 48 & Cultural Center 194 Market 370 Mt St Helens 15, 176-9, 180, Tamástslikt Cultural Institute 343 Yakima Valley Museum Pike Place Market 10, 62, 177, 15 Thomas Condon Paleon- 192 , Mt Vernon 102-3 10 26 tology Center 359 Neah Bay 137-8 marmots 450 262, 16 Umatilla County Histori- Neahkahnie Mountain 298 Marys Peak 251 museums & galleries, see cal Museum 343 Nehalem 299-300 115 also historical parks Umpqua Discovery Newberg 244-5 & reserves, science Center 311 museums Newberry National Volcanic Union County Museum Monument 286 Audain Art Museum 390 Map Pages 000 347 Newport 303-6 Burke Museum 71 Photo Pages 000 Whale Museum 107 Nighthawk 201 477 North Bend 92, 312-13 Oregon Dunes National Q San Juan Islands 9, 55, North Cascades 310-11 Qualicum 411 106-18, 94, 108-9, 9, Park 158-60, 154-5 Oregon Garden 250 Queets River Valley 136 18, 48 North Pender Island 420-1 Oregon Trail Interpretive sandboarding 308 North Umpqua River 331-3 Park 347 Sauvie Island 230 Peavy Arboretum 251 R scenery 23 Riverfront Park 200 rafting 46-7 science museums INDEX INDEX O Roozengaarde Display central Oregon 277, 283 Beaty Biodiversity Oak Harbor 103 Garden 101 central Washington 184 Museum 375-6 Ocean Shores 141-2 Stanley Park 367 Columbia River Gorge 265 Evergreen Aviation & -Odell Lake 287 Tofino Botanical Gardens eastern Oregon 357 Space Museum 245  N

Okanogan 207 415 Oregon coast 301 Hatfield Marine Science  S Olympia 121-4 Tom McCall Waterfront southern Oregon 322, Center 304 Olympic National Park 15, Park 212, 11 332, 337-9 HR MacMillan Space 130-41, 132, 15, 24 UBC Botanical Garden Washington Cascades Centre 376 Olympic Peninsula 55, 375 155, 157, 159 Oregon Museum of 119-41, 120 VanDusen Botanical Whistler 392 Science & Industry 217 highlights 120 Garden 375 Willamette Valley 257 Pacific Science Center 66-7 road trips 38-40 Reedsport 311-12 Outstanding Natural Science Factory 253 Omak 207 renewable energy 455 Area 304 Science World 374 Ontario 360 Richland 195-6 Parksville 411 opening hours 21 Scienceworks 322 Pasco 195-6 road trips 26, 34-40, 36, orcas 18, 107, 110, 452- see also car travel SPARK Museum of passports 52 Electrical Invention 95 3, 18, 48, see also Cascade Loop drive 183 115 Sea Lion Caves 306 whale-watching Chuckanut Dr 97 Pendleton 343, 346 Seaside 294-6 Orcas Island 112-16 Columbia River Hwy 259 pets, travel with 462 Seattle 54, 60-92, , Oregon Cascades 57, 271- Elkhorn Drive Scenic 61 88, 272 planning Byway 355 64-5, 91, 10, 19 Oregon Caves National activities 41-50 Harts Pass 160 highlights 61 Monument 330-1 basics 20-1 Hells Canyon Scenic travel to/from 90 Oregon City 242 budgeting 21 Byway 350 travel within 90 Oregon coast 11, 57, calendar of events 27-9 Highway 101 Oregon Seaview 146-7 289-319, 290, 293, children 51-3 Coast 34, 39 Sechelt 395 , 309 11 highlights 6-7, 6-7 Lewis & Clark Trail 37 Shady Cove 338 Oregon Dunes National internet resources 21 Mt Baker Scenic Byway Shaw Island 118 Recreation Area 310-11 itineraries 30-3, 34-40 152 Sherars Falls 276 Oysterville 145-6 regions 54-8 Olympic Peninsula Loop shopping 25, see also Ozette 138-9 repeat visitors 22 38-40 individual places travel seasons 20, 27-9 Oregon Cascades Scenic 313 Byway 35-7 plants 456-4 Sidney 406 P Rim Drive 334 Pacific Rim National Park politics 424-5 Sisters 278-80 Sea to Sky Highway 40 Reserve 412-13 population 425 skiing 25, 46 Packwood 173-4 Loop central Oregon 273, 279, Port Angeles 128-30 Road 364-5 State Park 198 282, 288 Port Hardy 418-19 Succor Creek & Leslie Palouse Region 199-200 central Washington 184, Port Orford 315-17 Gulch 361 187, 188 Paradise 170 Port Townsend 125-8 Washington Cascades Colville National Park 208 paragliding 50 Portland 11, 56, 209-38, Drive 37-8, 156 eastern Oregon 347, parks & gardens 210, 214-15, 219, rock climbing 42-3, 348, 355 Bloedel Conservatory 220-1, 11 see climbing Mt Baker 153 374-5 food carts 16, 226, 16 Rogue River 337-9 Olympic National Park 131 Discovery Park 70 free attractions 225 Roseburg 333-4 southern Oregon 322, Dr Sun Yat-Sen Classical highlights 210 Ross Lake 158 334, 335 Chinese Garden & Ruby Beach 141 Park 371 history 211 Spokane 202 Forest Park 217 orientation 213 Vancouver (BC) 377 Goldstream Provincial Posey Island 115 Washington Cascades S 153, 161, 162, 170, 175-6 Park 397 post 463 Saanich Peninsula 406-7 Whistler 391 Hall Lake Day Use Powell River 395-6 safety 461, 462-3, 471 Skinner Butte 253 Area 311 Prospect 338-9 Salem 247-50 sleigh riding 184 Japanese Garden 22 Prosser 193 salmon 455 281 Lithia Park 322 public holidays 462 Salt Creek Falls 287 Snoqualmie Valley 92 Occidental Park 68 public transportation 471 Salt Spring Island 420 snowboarding 46, 202, 391 Olympic Sculpture Park Pullman 199-200 San Juan Island 106-12 63, 66 snowshoeing 46, 391 travel to/from 22 478 soccer 87 McDonald State Forest Toledo 304 Wheeler 299-300 Sooke 407 251 Toppenish 194 103-5 South Pender Island 420-1 Moran State Park 112-13 tourist information 463 Whistler 11, 58, 366, 390-4, South Sister 280 Nehalem Bay State train travel 466, 471 368-9, 11 Southern Gulf Islands Park 299 Eagle Cap Excursion white-water rafting, 419-22 Newcastle Island Marine Train 350 see rafting Provincial Park 415 Empire Builder 206 wildlife 23, 450-4, see also INDEX INDEX Space Needle 18, 63, 2, 19 Oswald West State individual species Sparks Lake 287 Mt Hood Railroad 264 Park 298 wildlife reserves Spokane 200-5, 202 Sumpter Valley Railroad Palouse Falls State Klamath Basin National sport 435 355 S-Z Park 198  trees 453-4 Wildlife Refuges 341 Stanley Park 367, 12 Port Orford Heads State Little Pend Oreille trekking, see hiking  state parks & reserves, see Park 316 National Wildlife also historical parks & Tri-Cities 195-6 Refuge 208 reserves, national parks 200-1 Twilight 55, 140 Malheur National Wildlife & forests Saddle Mountain State Twisp 164 Refuge 362-4 Alfred A Loeb State Natural Area 295 Oregon Islands National Park 319 Samuel H Boardman Wildlife Refuge 296 Beacon Rock State State Park 318-19 U Ucluelet 413-14 Sauvie Island Wildlife Park 263 Shore Acres State Area 230 Union Creek 338-9 313 Park 313 Tule Lake National Cape Blanco State 250 Upper Skagit River Valley Wildlife Refuge 340 156-8 Park 316 Smith Rock State Park Upper Skagit Bald Eagle Cape Disappointment 281 Area 156-7 State Park 147 Spencer Spit State Wildlife Images 328 Scenic V Park 116 Vancouver (BC) 9, 58, 366, Willamette Falls 242 Area 306 367-90, 368-9, 372-3, Willamette Pass 287-8 Cape Scott Provincial 313 374, 8-9 Park 418 Willamette Valley 56, 239- TouVelle State Park 326 highlights 368-9 57, Cape Sebastian State 240-1 Wallowa Lake State travel to/from 388-9 windsurfing 47 Park 317 Park 351 Catherine Creek State travel within 389-90 Columbia River Gorge Yaquina Bay State Park 265, 268 Park 347 304 Vancouver (WA) 148-9 Oregon Coast 315 Columbia Hills Historical Steamboat 332-3 Vancouver Island 14, 58, State Park 268 366, 396-419, 368-9, wine 14, 24-5, 246, 445 Steens Mountain 364-5 Deception Pass State 398-9, 14 wineries 14, 18, 24-5, , Stehekin 164-7 14 18 Park 103 highlights 368-9 Columbia River Gorge Stonehenge 270 Deschutes River State Vashon Island 91 264, 265, 268, 270 storm-watching 415 Recreation Area 270 Victoria 396-406, 402, 14 Oregon 18 Strawberry Mountain Ecola State Park 296-7 San Juan Islands 110, 117 Wilderness 358 Vinter’s Village 193 State Park 105 Southern Gulf Islands Stuart Island 115 visas 464 291 420-1 Succor Creek State Natural volcanoes 179, 180, 276, 286 105 Southern Oregon 327 Area 361 State Spokane 201-2 115 Park 207 W Vancouver Island 408 Sunrise 174 State Waldo Lake 287 Walla Walla 196-7 Sunshine Coast 394-6 Park 194 Waldron Island 115 Washington 14 surfing 50 State walking, see hiking Washington Cascades 168 Park 291 sustainability 455-6 Walla Walla 196-9 Willamette Valley 243, Sweet Creek Falls 310 State Wallowa Lake 351-2 244, 245-6, 250, 253 Park 125 Wallowa Mountains 348-53 Yakima Valley 193 Governor Tom McCall Warm Springs Indian Winthrop 161-4, 39 Reserve 268 T Reservation 282 Tacoma 92 Woodinville 92 Humbug Mountain State Washington Cascades 55, Park 316 telephone services 20 WWII 319 150-80, 151 Terwilliger Hot Springs 248 95 weather 20, 27-9, see The Dalles 267-70 Leadbetter Point State also individual regions Y Park Natural Area 145 Wedding Rocks 139 280 Yachats 306-8 Lime Kiln Point State Wenatchee 188-9 Park 109 tide pools 452 Yakima 192-4 West Coast Trail 413 Maquinna Marine Tilikum Crossing 22 Yakima Valley 189-94 Westport 144 Provincial Park 415 Tillamook 300-1 whales 27, 49-50, 107, Timberline Lodge 273, 274 110, 113 Z time 463 Olympic Peninsula 126 Zillah 193 Map Pages 000 Todd Lake 287 Oregon Coast 303, 304 zoos 70, 330, 397 Photo Pages 000 Tofino 414-15 Vancouver Island 400, 415 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 479

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing BART station Reef Other Activity Border crossing Boston T station Areas Sleeping Bus Airport/Runway Sleeping Cable car/Funicular Camping Cycling Beach/Desert Ferry Cemetery (Christian) Eating Metro/Muni station Eating Monorail Cemetery (Other) Parking Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Petrol station Drinking & Nightlife Subway/SkyTrain station Mudflat Cafe Taxi Park/Forest Train station/Railway Entertainment Tram Sight (Building) Entertainment Underground station Sportsground Other Transport Shopping Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Brendan Sainsbury Seattle Originally from Hampshire (the ‘old’ one in England), Brendan has been covering Seattle and the Pacific Northwest for Lonely Planet for over a decade. He is currently based in White Rock, BC, 45 minutes south of Vancouver and just 2km from the US border. Researching for this book (his 45th for Lonely Planet) he enjoyed trying copious new beers, getting drunk on coffee and doughnuts, and taking his son (yet again!) to Seattle’s legendary pinball museum.

Celeste Brash Northwestern Washington & the San Juan Islands, Olympic Peninsula & Washington Coast, Washington Cascades, Central & Eastern Washington The beauty of the Pacific Northwest coaxed Celeste back to the US after 15 years in Tahiti. For the last six years she’s reveled in exploring her new back yard, its mountains, coasts, wineries and fantastic restaurants, while getting back in touch with her cowboy and Indian roots. Her award-winning writing has appeared in publications from BBC Travel to Afar and Islands Magazine and she’s contributed to nearly 60 Lonely Planet titles.

John Lee Vancouver, Whistler & Vancouver Island Originally from the UK, John moved to to study at the University of Victoria in the 1990s. Eventually staying and moving to Vancouver, he started a freelance travel-writing career in 1999. Since then, he’s been covering the region and beyond for Lonely Planet plus magazines, newspapers and online outlets around the world. Winner of numerous writing awards, very active on Twitter and a weekly columnist for Canada’s The Globe and Mail national newspaper, catch up with him at www.johnleewriter.com.

Becky Ohlsen Portland, The Willamette Valley & Wine Country, Columbia River Gorge, Central Oregon & the Oregon Cascades, Oregon Coast, Ashland & Southern Oregon, Eastern Oregon Becky is a freelance writer, editor and critic based in Portland, Oregon. She writes guidebooks and travel stories about Scandinavia, Portland and elsewhere for Lonely Planet.

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