DEALS FOR LA PERLA, SAMSONITE/2 DUNDAS OUT AT UNGARO/2 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’FRIDAY Daily Newspaper • July 6, 2007 • $2.00 Beauty A Boy-Girl Thing PARIS — Giorgio Armani has long made a masculine-feminine duality part of his signature, and it was highly effective in the strong fall Privé collection he showed on Wednesday, his best thus far. It featured great-looking, real-world looks, some playing the fi nely tailored and the softly shaped against each other. Here, one example: a sharp haberdashery jacket and romantic full skirt. For more on the couture, see pages 4 to 7.

Fast Times at Barneys: Uniqlo Parent Submits $896M Bid for Retailer By Vicki M. Young NEW YORK — A bidding battle is on for Barneys New York. Fast Retailing Ltd., the Tokyo-based owner of fast-fashion chain Uniqlo and an investor in contemporary brand Theory, on Thursday surprised the industry with an unsolicited $896 million offer for Barneys, trumping the $825 million bid from Dubai-based investment firm Istithmar that seemed relatively assured. The approach immediately set off speculation as to what will happen next — and even whether more bidders could enter the race. The Middle See Fast, Page 14 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 6, 2007 WWD.COM Equity Players Snap Up WWDFRIDAY Samsonite and La Perla Beauty By Amanda Kaiser out into eyewear, fragrances FASHION and even denim. But some of its Giorgio Armani’s fall Privé couture collection was inspired by David eep-pocketed private equity expansion efforts have faltered. 4 Bowie, while Jean Paul Gaultier’s had a princes-and-maharajas theme. Dfi rms are set to scoop up two Last year, the company shut its more luxury goods brands. money-losing retail venture Italy’s lingerie and fashion Intimo 3, a chain of 120 stores. GENERAL group La Perla SpA and JH Intimo 3 hit La Perla’s bal- Tokyo-based Fast Retailing ignited a possible bidding war for Barneys Partners LLC, based in San ance sheet, and the group post- 1 New York Thursday by offering a 9 percent premium over Istithmar’s bid. Francisco, said Thursday they ed a loss of 21 million euros, had reached a preliminary or $27.2 million at current ex- Emanuel Ungaro said Thursday that designer Peter Dundas had de- agreement for the U.S. fund to change, in 2006. Last year, group 2 parted, with no timetable for naming his successor. buy a majority stake in La Perla sales reached 178.2 million In separate deals, private equity fi rms are set to purchase two more from the company’s founders, euros, or $230.9 million. Masotti 2 luxury goods brands, Italy’s La Perla SpA and Samsonite Corp. the Masotti family. said in February that he hoped Equity fund CVC Partners to reach breakeven in 2008. Ralph Lauren will present a selection of styles from its Rugby brand at inked a deal Thursday to ac- Like La Perla, Samsonite has 3 Colette in Paris this September to coincide with the Rugby World Cup. quire the Samsonite Corp. for been busy boosting its fashion about $1.7 billion, or $1.49 a profi le in a drive to become a life- BEAUTY share, including the assumption style brand. Last year, the luggage With memories of her 23-day jail sentence still fresh, Paris Hilton will of debt. CVC is buying the lug- and accessories fi rm inked deals 8 launch her fourth fragrance, Can Can Paris Hilton, in October. gage and travel accessories com- for design collaborations with pany from a group of investors A fall look Alexander McQueen and Matthew What to Watch: A constellation of celebrity fragrances, a multitude of that includes Ares Management from La Williamson for its Black Label 10 new organics and a rise in supplements top fall’s beauty lineup. LLC and Bain Capital Partners Perla. line. The company also bought Classifi ed Advertisements...... 19 LLC. The deal should close Lambertson Truex, opened a in the last quarter of the year, Samsonite Black Label store on pending regulatory approval in Madison Avenue and introduced To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. the U.S. and Europe. fashion handbags and footwear. [email protected], using the individual’s name. Neither a price range nor Other products sold under the WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT a time frame for the La Perla Samsonite brand include com- ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. transaction was disclosed. puter cases, furniture, umbrellas, VOLUME 194, NO. 4. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one Under the terms of the deal, school bags, travel accessories additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three additional issues in February, April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Alberto Masotti will retain his and children’s products. Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by title as chairman but hand over Samsonite had net losses Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive the role of chief executive of- after the impact of an account- Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail fi cer to Jeff Hansen, the presi- ing change of $6.8 million on Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return dent of JH Partners. Masotti and sales of $1.07 billion in the undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: his daughter, Anna Masotti, cur- fiscal year ended Jan. 31. At SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE rently the company’s creative A piece from Samsonite’s Fashionaire the operating level, it had in- INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit and design director, will retain collection. come of $79.9 million, up from www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new seats on La Perla’s board, the $73 million the previous year. subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, companies said in a statement. kets,” he said in the statement. About 70 percent of the group’s please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other “JH Partners is happy to initi- Company offi cials could not be sales come from the Samsonite Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list ate a collaboration with Alberto reached for additional comment. brand; American Tourister con- available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA Masotti and his family to forge JH Partners declined to comment tributes 15 percent, licensed 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, additional growth of one of the beyond Thursday’s release. products 13.4 percent, and the OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, most important luxury brands in La Perla, based in the north- Black Label line 1.6 percent. BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR the world,” Hansen said in the ern Italian town of Bologna, is According to the fi rm’s annual CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR statement. The executive said best known for its lingerie. But report, luggage is by far its larg- DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY international expansion and re- over the years, the Masotti family est product category, generating A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. inforcing the brand’s image were has expanded the brand into new 66.8 percent of revenues. top priorities. areas. Alessandro Dell’Acqua, In a statement, CVC said it The equity fund focuses on known for his boudoir aesthetic, was buying Samsonite because consumer products and ser- has designed La Perla’s ready-to- of the fragmented luggage sec- vices, and its holdings include wear collection since 2003, earn- tor’s long-term growth pros- Italian linen brand Frette and ing mixed reviews. pects, particularly in Asia. CVC Quote of the Week fertilizer company Terracycle. In February, Alberto Masotti also believes it can continue to Last month, JH acquired hair told WWD the family-owned move the brand upmarket to a care brand Ouidad for an undis- company had inked a pair of luxury image, “making it highly “We have one client — I can’t say the closed sum. licensing agreements for acces- suitable for an initial public of- Alberto Masotti said the deal sories and footwear. La Perla is fering at some later date.” name — who orders 25 to 30 dresses highlighted the value of the La working with Finduck, parent of CVC also plans to consider “se- Perla brand and the uniqueness Mandarina Duck, for a handbag lective acquisitions” to expand the a season, so she is a good percentage of its products. and small leather goods collec- group in certain key regions. “China “[The sale of the company] tion, and with footwear company and India present particularly in- of our production.’’ initiates a period of accelera- Baldan to produce and distrib- teresting opportunities for growth,” tion for the growth of our brands ute a La Perla shoe line. Hardy McLain and Luigi Lanari of — Giancarlo Giammetti, Valentino’s business partner, in all international luxury mar- La Perla has also branched CVC said in the statement. on the boom in couture. Ungaro, Dundas Part Ways In Brief By Miles Socha “There’s a great team in the has gone through three women’s ● FIRST LOOK: First Exposure, a new London trade show studio working,” he said. wear designers since the retire- that runs for two days, starting Monday, is aiming to shake up PARIS — Emanuel Ungaro said Moufarrige is known for tak- ment of its founding couturier the traditional exhibition model. Besides showcasing future Thursday that designer Peter ing his time in selecting design- in 2005. The house also under- collections from 20 brands new to the U.K., including New Dundas had departed, confirm- ers, and for making bold choices. went an ownership change in York designer Nicholas K, accessories line Bijules NYC and ing a report in WWD. When he was president of Chloé, 2005 when high-tech entrepre- ventures such as Trig, the online networking site and maga- “We thank him for his Moufarrige made waves in 1997 neur Asim Abdullah bought the zine, the boutique show will open a temporary store where contribution and we remain by replacing Karl Lagerfeld with brand from Ferragamo Group. customers will be able to buy the exhibitors’ current collec- fully committed to continu- Stella McCartney, then a rela- Moufarrige also recently named tions and products. “With technology today, nothing is a se- ing the legacy of the house,” tively little-known 25-year-old a new designer, Frank Boclet, to cret anymore — everything is available all the time,” said said Ungaro president and fashion fl edgling. rev up Ungaro’s men’s business. Raoul Shah, the event’s founder and chief executive of the chief executive offi cer Mounir It is understood manage- In a statement, Dundas said, public relations firm Exposure, which operates in London, Moufarrige. ment and the designer did not “I want to thank the House of New York and San Francisco, adding that the show and store Moufarrige declined to give see eye to eye on the creative Ungaro and say I am proud to will be open to buyers, consumers and media alike. Shah a timetable for naming a succes- direction of the French brand, have worked alongside the won- said he planned to launch a New York version of the show sor, but suggested the change in founded in 1965. derfully talented people there in January or February, to bring little-known U.K. brands to design direction would not dis- Ungaro has had a rocky time and wish the company contin- the U.S. rupt the company. on the road to rejuvenation, and ued success.” Shop now at esteelauder.com © 2007 Estée Lauder Inc. THE FRAGRANCE TO LIVEIN ALL YEAR LONG. 4 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 6, 2007

Giorgio Armani Privé Giorgio Armani Privé

Giorgio Armani Privé PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY Rock Stars, Royals and Reality Giorgio Armani’s fall Privé couture collection was inspired by David Bowie, while Jean Paul Gaultier’s had a princes-and- maharajas theme. Both, however, showed plenty of looks that could fi t seamlessly into real women’s wardrobes.

Giorgio Armani Privé: Once again, Giorgio Armani inspiration, he kept the references so well in check skirts. If he was aiming for Space Oddity, well, he hit scored the season’s biggest star wattage as the dazzling that, save for the occasional spangled fedora, big the mark. Still, Armani should be excused that bit of Cate Blanchett graced his front row, a knockout holographic buckle closures and some glam-rocky overwrought theatricality. After all, this is couture. And vision of black and blonde. She took in the designer’s colors, one could easily have missed the connection. no disrespect to Bowie, the actual inspirations here best Privé collection yet, a controlled, savvy ode to And that was wise indeed, as Armani thus avoided the were real women — Blanchett and those who would wearable chic of the tony sort. silliness such a theme might trigger. The lone caveat: resemble her — who covet chic, fl attering clothes. Though Armani cited David Bowie as his his fi nale, a trio of gowns with bizarre molded elliptical Armani packed his lineup with plenty. WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 6, 2007 5 WWD.COM

Jean Paul Gaultier Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier Jean Paul Gaultier

He opened with short, trim jackets in men’s wear be ordered and worn elsewhere, as in real life. He to the Aga Khan as well as Mrs. Big Bucks. fabrics over fanciful full skirts, giving the masculine/ did exactly that again on Wednesday, in an impressive Mixed in were new takes on the designer’s signature feminine schtick a fresh buoyancy. Conversely, he romp titled “Princes et Maharajas,” a men’s wear- pieces — le smoking, the trench, beautifully draped sometimes reined in the silhouette with tulip skirts inspired tale with all the East-West dichotomy its name dresses, the last tweaked toward the theme with the and a little banded red cocktail dress. As for major implies. addition of demonstrative epaulets (a major motif) evening, these days Armani seldom bothers with Gaultier’s Occidental royalty hailed from the — as well as some showstoppers, such as a velvet anything not geared toward standard notions of red- storybook military genre. Done up in trim waistcoats coat embroidered in fl oral needlepoint and a lace carpet suitability, and this collection was no exception over skintight breeches tucked into boots, the models cheongsam-cum-mermaid gown. (that fi nale and some feisty over-the-top feathering might have stepped out of a cross-dressed Cinderella. Unfortunately, two such looks made the list for their aside). Thus, he offered a siren serenade of curvy black The maharajahs were more elaborately turned — and chill factor: a princely getup accessorized with a full- va-va-voom gowns, each one embroidered, jeweled turbaned — out. Either way, Gaultier displayed just carcass, nose-to-tail white fox slung shoulder-bag style or otherwise done up for distinction. One stunner how much can be derived from a single motif, or even a on each arm and another with endless sleeves made was aquiver with countless miniature crystal-edged single garment. from two gigantic fox skins (this time headless) ombréd fans. Because, for a big night, there’s no such thing as To wit, he worked the admiral’s jacket brilliantly, from white to blue. Fur is perhaps the most volatile fanning the fl ames of glamour too much. nipping, fringing, braiding, cutting away into issue in fashion today. Though one can argue that at swashbuckling tails. The Oriental counterpoint least Gaultier isn’t afraid to show it for what it is, these Jean Paul Gaultier: Jean Paul Gaultier has a allowed him to soften the precision tailoring and looks seemed intended to deliberately goad the PETA remarkable knack for staging elaborate, exotic costume ratchet up the embellishment as he brocaded, swathed, set and unsettle everyone else. They certainly made at dramas while featuring real clothes that can and will draped and bejeweled in a manner that would appeal least some fur fans rethink their stance. 6 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 6, 2007 Dramatic Entrances Glamorous fi lm heroines, feathers, fl ounces and even a live Glimmer white rabbit...the Paris shows had plenty of theatrical elements. Avalon Vega: For their fi rst couture show, Avalon Vega’s Daniel Fumaz and Samuel François — Numero’s fashion editor by day — summoned And Glow up the bygone glamour of movie heroines à la Delphine Seyrig. With a focus on womanly construction, high drama came from a billowing Elie Saab: After a few years of showing on black velvet gown, slashed at the back, or a the couture circuit, Elie Saab has proved chocolate belted fur that fl ashed a strip of burnt he is a man of singular vision. He likes orange at its collar. As the brand’s name suggests sexy, embroidered gowns. Period. Sequins (Vega comes from the schmoozy Roxy Music hit, — the more the better. Flounces, fringes while Avalon is the name of a limited edition and everything that glimmers — give perfume by Guerlain), certain looks ventured him more. The Beirut designer, whose into camp terrain, teetering on the right side of confections have lit up the red carpet on kitsch. But on the whole, the duo succeeded in the backs of Halle Berry and Beyoncé, isn’t nailing wearability with creative fl air. The fi rm’s a minimalist. But one is hard-pressed to positioning as a couture brand is dubious. But fault the designer for knowing his zone and judging by the reaction of the show’s audience, steadfastly staying there. It’s helped his which included Christian Lacroix, Lars Nilsson business fl ourish (he just opened his fi rst and Dior’s Victoire de Castellane, they’ve already store in Paris). bagged their fair share of followers. This season, Saab offered a smorgasbord of sequined chiffon gowns. Flirty and Franck Sorbier: Folkloric airs permeated Franck short or long and columnar, some came Sorbier’s couture collection, made up of globe- with silver fringes, others were paired trotting riffs on fashions past. True to form, the with satin opera coats and almost all were designer’s open-air presentation in a courtyard, decorated with his ubiquitous bling. The with models standing like sentries, spun a few nicest numbers were draped with ruffl es, gimmicks into the equation with a live white rabbit including a black fl oor-sweeping fl amenco and even a baby. But the fashion was real enough. look — which seemed oddly out of place High notes included Sorbier’s radzimir box coat, among the rest of his none-too-subtle patterned with geometric colored feathers, as well parade. That said, by sticking to a palette of as a trapeze skirt in embroidered denim. mostly gray and black, Saab exhibited his own variety of control. Stephane Rolland: He’s been punching the time card as the couturier at Jean-Louis Scherrer for a decade, and now Stephane Rolland has made his solo debut with a collection that was mainly a riff on le smoking. A tuxedo jacket served as a dress, another was paired with pants and a long smoking dress came decorated with sequins. Other outfits boasted plastic geometric cutout decorations, whether as an epaulet on a black gown or a black plastic bow on a white satin dress. While these were fine, Rolland’s other attempts at evening gowns were simply overwrought, overloaded with glitter, flounces, feathers and indiscreet cutouts.

E2: Known for reworking vintage clothes, the husband-and-wife team of Olivier and Michelle Chatenet at E2 concentrated on transforming old scarves into modern-day dresses and tops. Though not technically couture, their one-of-a-kind creations have charm. One standout was a boxy dress that melded old Yves Saint Laurent fabric, a skirt from the Twenties and a vintage Hermès scarf into a confection of colorful contrasting patterns. Another fetching idea — scarf dresses that, with a few tucks and folds, transformed from long to short. Fashion Scoops

THE LATE SHOW: In shades of her “The Devil Wears Prada” role as a hapless fashion newbie, actress Anne Hathaway got held up on the red carpet arriving at Giorgio Armani’s Privé couture show Wednesday night and only got to her seat around exit number nine. “I was so doing the walk of shame,” she recounted later at a dinner Armani hosted at Mori Venice Bar. “That was beyond fashionably late.” After three days Giorgio of museumgoing and sightseeing in Armani Paris, Hathaway is off to Rome for and Valentino’s couture festivities with Cate a vow: “I plan to arrive on time.” Blanchett Next up for her, workwise, is a juicy role in a Jonathan Demme movie: “I play a recovering drug addict who arrives on the weekend of her sister’s wedding,” Hathaway said. Cate Blanchett fl ew in from Sydney to take in the Privé show, and was off to Hawaii

PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI AND DOMINIQUE MAITRE GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY to shoot the Indiana Jones movie. Her role? “I’ll be shot if I tell you that,” she said, fl ashing a big smile. Meanwhile, Camilla Belle said she was enjoying her jaunt in Paris before matriculating at Columbia University for her fi rst year of study. “I’m so looking forward to having PHOTOS BY STEFANO BIANCHI, STEPHANE FEUGERE AND DOMINIQUE MAITRE STEFANO PHOTOS BY WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 6, 2007 7 WWD.COM

Avalon Vega Stephane E2 Rolland From Sea to Star Fine jewelry presentations have become an integral part of haute couture week. Evoking the past, both real and imag- ined, was a shared theme among the Place Vendôme jew- elers, while Yohji Yamamoto went elegantly astral for the debut of Stormy Weather, his collaboration with Mikimoto. — Katya Foreman

▲ Chanel: Chanel’s new Vendôme collection was inspired by the house’s fi rst diamond and platinum line, launched in 1932. Stars and camellias abound, but one of the standouts is the Pluie de Diamants (Diamond Rain), a collar featuring 450 Franck Sorbier diamonds twinkling on barely there platinum wires with pear-shape sparklers dripping from its tips.

▲ Boucheron: Boucheron’s Fleurs Fatal group features fi ve motifs inspired by mythical femme fatales. Botane is based on an Asian myth about the peony, imbued with the power to transform into a young woman of irresistible charms. Its necklace depicts the fl ower’s life cycle in three stages, each crafted from white, yellow and pink diamonds.

▲ Van Cleef & Arpels: The sunken city of Atlantis inspired Van Cleef & Arpels’ collection of pieces evoking imaginary sea creatures and subaquatic fauna. One brooch depicts a gold, diamond and yellow sapphire water sprite clutching a vibrant spinel.

▲ Stormy Weather: Yohji Yamamoto’s nascent fi ne jewelry line, made in collaboration with Mikimoto, features a group called Moon. The lunar cycle inspired a necklace of 28 pearls set in hammered discs of white gold, and a multiple- bead pendant offering a stylized

CHANEL AND STORMY PHOTOS BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE CHANEL AND STORMY PHOTOS BY constellation.

tea at Ladurée,” she said, adding also be starring in “Le Bal des Actrices” singer after the show. She re-emerged, true she’s yet to choose her major. by budding French actress and director to form, with lipstick slathered all over her “I’m not there yet,” she sighed. Mylène Jampanoï, a semidocumentary mouth. Earlier, Love said of her new group, “I Actress Virginie Ledoyen said she fi lmed with a handheld camera. “She’s went to the U.K. and got myself a new band.” was relishing her summer holiday. incredibly talented,” said Rampling of And while she may be a veteran songstress, “I’ll be in Corsica a bit,” she said. Jampanoï. the band members range between the ages of 19 and 24 years. “I mention Fleetwood Mac GRANDE DAMES: France’s new fi rst LOVED UP: and they never heard of it,” she said. lady, Cécilia Sarkozy, fi nally made “We may an appearance during couture suck, but if NEWS BLASS: Since Michael Vollbracht hung week, but not at any fashion we do it’s up his sketchbooks and pins at Bill Blass show. Instead, she attended a performance in May, there’s been speculation about who Camilla preview showing of photography art,” snarled could be the next designer to take a stab at Belle by David Lynch featuring shoes by Courtney reviving the venerable Seventh Avenue house. Christian Louboutin at the Pierre Love during Blass executives are said to have looked at Passebon gallery Wednesday night. Clockwise from a private a slew of younger talents, including Bryan “He’s a maestro,” said Laura Dern, in top left: Charlotte concert — her Bradley, Martin Grant, Phillip Lim, Thakoon Paris promoting the release of Lynch’s Rampling; Cécilia fi rst in Europe Panichgul and Zac Posen, but some believe “Inland Empire.” The actress is fi lming Sarkozy, Mathilde in seven Peter Som has emerged as the favorite. The two new features, “Year of the Dog” and Agostinelli and years — at deal between the house and the designer is “Tenderness” with Russell Crowe, both Victoire de Givenchy said to be almost fi nalized, though it could expected to hit theaters this fall. Charlotte Castellane; Laura Wednesday Clockwise from above: still fall through. Som did not return a phone Rampling popped by, too, despite her Dern and David Lynch. night. Courtney Love; Roman call seeking comment on Thursday. Vollbracht busy fi lming and theater schedule. Emmanuelle Polanski and Emmanuelle resigned from the house in late May after four “They’re all so dark I wouldn’t want to Seigner, who’s off to New York on Seigner; Hedi Slimane. years at the creative helm. Before him, Steven ruin the evening,” joked Rampling of the Monday to shoot Eagle’s spring Slowick and Lars Nilsson each had short stints fi lm plot lines. She is working on “Purple campaign, watched on with her hubby, Roman Polanski. The at Blass. The company was sold to NexCen America,” based on the novel by Rick director said he’s about to start casting for his next fi lm, Brands Inc. in December. Moody, as well as “The Dances of Death” “Pompeii,” which will be shot in Spain. Rock fan Hedi Slimane and “Angel.” Rampling said she would even slipped backstage to grab a private moment with the For more Fashion Scoops, see page 19. 8 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 6, 2007

The Beauty Report WWD.COM ‘Can Can’ Next for Liberated Paris

hen Paris Hilton introduces her fourth fragrance in October, it will not be a rou- understand that she went through a diffi cult Wtine launch. It will be a referendum on the popular notion that bad girls sell. time and they’re supporting her. The fact that The new scent will hit counters at a time when memories of Hilton’s 23-day jail [journalists] want to interview her indicates sentence are still fresh, as are echoes of the media orgy that at times seemed to that people are interested in her and her fans overshadow the Iraq war. Even the new scent’s name is a vague reminder of the want to support her with things she’s involved incident: Can Can Paris Hilton, although its intent is more Moulin Rouge than Sing with. She’s hard-working with her businesses, Sing. Yet the deluge of bad press had no negative effect on her fragrance business and the public and her fans know that and with Parlux Fragrances Inc., according to Neil Katz, Parlux’s chief executive offi - want to see her resume her life. The recent cer and chairman. In fact, the opposite was the case. “Our business saw an overall events show that there’s even more of an indi- increase of more than 30 percent from last year for the month of May,” he said. AP PHOTO/GUS RUELAS PHOTO BY cation that people are interested in her.” Kathleen Galvin, vice president of marketing at Parlux, added, “Our experienc- Considering the controversy, Can Can is es from the past show that controversy has had a positive impact on sales because an apropos concept, inspired by the 2001 hit people have become even more curious.” movie “Moulin Rouge” and the fl irty, sexy Indeed, Hilton’s entire career seems to be mainly about controversy, including attitude of the video for “Lady Marmalade,” the appearance of a sex video. And one of the songs on the fi lm’s soundtrack. that does not seem to have dampened Paris Hilton’s new “We wanted something elegant but fun,” enthusiasm for Hilton’s fragrances. Can Can fragrance. said Galvin. “Paris loved it and thought the According to estimates by industry overall idea was great. We gave her the choice sources, the Hilton fragrance fran- of wardrobe [for the ad], since we wanted her chise, which was launched almost to feel comfortable and let her create her own three years ago, now generates $75 interpretation of what the fragrance should million wholesale a year, about 60 Paris Hilton be.” Feathers are incorporated into the pack- percent of it in the U.S. GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY leaving jail aging, which is meant to elicit a sense of play- Katz contends the success of the in Los Angeles fulness, fl irtatiousness and naughtiness. fragrance franchise lies in Hilton’s on June 26. Created by Firmenich’s Jean-Claude reputation as a style and fashion pres- Delville, Can Can is a blend of top notes of cle- ence. “There’s a difference between mentine fl ower, cassis and nectarine; middle notes of wild orchid and orange blossom, a celebrity who does one thing well, and bottom notes of soft musk, amber and woods. The three previous Hilton fragrances like acting or singing, and a celebrity — Paris Hilton, Just Me and Heiress — were classifi ed as fruity fl oral fragrances. that people want to be,” said Katz. “We wanted something sexier, with more body,” said Galvin. “Since we were seeing “She’s an ‘It’ girl. a trend toward oriental fragrances, we decided to incorporate fruity fl oral notes but “People say she does nothing, but moved more in the oriental direction.” she really looks at everything that’s But unlike her previous fragrances, which have attracted a broader audience, done under her name,” Katz continued. Can Can is targeting young women between the ages of 15 and 25. “She’s very involved in her business Retailing at a higher price point than Hilton’s previous scents — $45 for a 1.7-oz. and lives for it.” bottle and $55 for 3.4 oz. — Can Can will be sold in about 2,200 U.S. stores, including David Wolfe, creative director at the Doneger Group, recently commented, “I think Belk, Macy’s and Carson Pirie Scott. Consumers will receive a silver clutch as a gift bad celebrities sell more fragrance than good ones. We’ve always been fascinated by with purchase. The fragrance will roll out fi rst in the U.S., Canada and the Caribbean, maverick baddies,” he continued, describing their appeal as “criminal chic.” and then in January in Mexico, Asia, England, Dubai and Central and South America. “For some people, the trend has reached a saturation point, but celebrity seems Industry sources estimate the fragrance could do $20 million wholesale in its fi rst to be the only method we have for getting a response from consumers because of the year on counter with an advertising and promotion budget of $5 million to $6 million. media overload,” he added. “Luckily, there’s a new celebrity made every 15 minutes.” To create some excitement at the counter, the company will hire models dressed And while department store retailers have described fragrance as a fashion in “Moulin Rouge”-style costumes to hand out feather samples, rather than tradi- item — scents go out as fast as they come in — Hilton has exhibited staying power. tional blotting cards. According to industry sources, her fi rst fragrance, Paris Hilton, still generated $40 A major print campaign shot by Mark Liddell will break in November fashion million in retail sales two years after its launch in November 2004. Generally, ce- books and will also appear in heavier-stock ads featuring up to eight pages. To cre- lebrity scents have a window of vitality of about a year. ate a larger visual presence in stores, counters will feature a behind-the-scenes The question then becomes: When will celebrity-hungry tabloid readers tire of video on the making of the ad. Hilton will make about fi ve in-store appearances in reports of Hilton’s rich-girl antics? the U.S. this fall — barring any further controversy. For Katz, there is no issue. “The public is not losing interest in her,” he said. “They — Michelle Edgar Canovas Designs Scent Quintet

t’s not every day that a French textile house enters the fragrance market. IManuel Canovas has made that leap, with not only one fragrance but with the fi ve that make up its Les Fantaisies Parfumées Collection, being launched at GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY Bergdorf Goodman in August. Canovas, founded in 1963, has long been active in the upscale home decorat- ing arena. Its move to beauty is more recent; candles were launched in the mid- Eighties, and this new grouping is the brand’s fi rst fragrance effort. Anse Turquoise has top notes of Calabrian bergamot, caramel, Greek grape- fruit, California orange, Sicilian citron and vanilla cloves; a heart of Madagascan ylang-ylang, Ceylonese cinnamon, Indian sandalwood, Egyptian jasmine, muguet, Turkish rose, tuberose, French violet and Caribbean magnolia, and a drydown of vanilla, white musk, caramel, amber, Peruvian balsam, orange blossom, oakmoss and Spanish labdanum. L’Ile Bleue has top notes of Sicilian mandarin and Florida oranges, com- Part of the bined with Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, peach, apricot, Turkish rose and Manuel Canovas Russian sage, and a drydown of white musk, amber and Siamese benzoin. fragrance lineup. Route Mandarine has top notes of Egyptian geranium, Florida orange, Calabrian bergamot, Italian mandarin, Madagascan clove, Ivory Coast citron, Ceylonese cinnamon and Madagascan ylang-ylang, and a drydown of white musk, includes Japanese water iris. Ballade Verte’s outer box is a modernized toile de Madagascan vanilla, amber, Spanish labandaum, Indian incense, raspberry fl ow- jouy pattern. The Pink Riviera box features Canovas’ Bellagio design of large ers and Egyptian civette. fl owers and geometric shapes. Ballade Verte has top notes of violet leaves, Turkish rose, Iranian galbanum, In the U.S., the scents will be available at Bergdorf Goodman and at ylang-ylang from Comoros (an island in the Indian Ocean) and Chinese ginger; a canovasfragrance.com in August. In the fourth quarter, the fragrances will be heart of Indian sandalwood, Virginia cedarwood, agarwood and gurjun balsam, expanded to Fred Segal, Stanley Korshak and other boutiques, said Donics. “Our and a drydown of tree sap, Madagascan vanilla and white musk. goal is to keep distribution tight and in select luxury retailers and boutiques.” Pink Riviera has top notes of Calabrian bergamot, Italian citron, Greek grape- Outside the U.S., that could include upscale doors in Italy, Spain, France, the fruit, Italian mandarin and wild mint; a heart of Egyptian jasmine, Turkish rose U.K., Germany and Australia, he added. and Indian sandalwood, and a drydown of white musk and amber. While Donics declined to discuss sales fi gures, industry sources estimated Each scent will retail for $95 for a 100-ml. bottle. that the quintet could do $750,000 at retail in the fi rst year on counter in the U.S. Outer boxes for each of the scents take their inspiration from a Canovas de- No national advertising is planned, but the scents will be promoted through a sign, noted Byron Donics, president and chief executive offi cer of HTI Collection, direct-mail campaign and deluxe samples at point of sale, said Donics. which will distribute the fragrances. Anse Turquoise’s sea-themed box is the New fragrances are slated to be added to the lineup in fall 2008. A diffuser- brand’s Goa pattern of seashells and red coral, based against a turquoise sea. like group of products will be introduced in spring 2008, and body cream will L’Ile Bleue’s box, blue with white fl oral motifs, was produced in the 2006 Canovas follow in fall 2008, said Donics. textile collection. Route Mandarine’s box uses Canovas’ Katsura pattern, which — Julie Naughton

10 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 6, 2007 The Beauty Report Celebs Searching for Cash With Scents ar from burning out, the star wars are still heating up Macy’s, said in June. “It animates the selling environment Mariah on department store fragrance counters. through visual presentation and generates excitement F Carey Six celebrities have already announced that they will among our customers. The performance of the category introduce new scents before the end of the year — and by is infl uenced by the exposure, prominence and level of late September, fragrance counters at major department involvement of the celebrity in promoting the project. stores will likely resemble Hollywood sets. Though I must add that it all starts with the right juice.” First out of the gate: Covet Sarah Jessica Parker, Jordaan doesn’t seem daunted by the long list of star being launched in Macy’s this month and elsewhere in fragrances due this fall, many of which Macy’s will stock. August, and L by Gwen Stefani, which hits Nordstrom “Looking at the extensive lineup for fall, it appears that stores this month and additional points of distribution the category is experiencing a resurgence with intro- in September. They will be closely followed in August ductions from several prominent trendsetters from the by Sean “Diddy” Combs’ Unforgivable for Women, and Sarah worlds of music and fashion,” she said. “We feel [the ce- in September by M by Mariah Carey, Can Can by Paris Jessica lebrity category] is still viable and will continue to be an Hilton, Usher She and Usher He. Parker important part of the business.” So what’s with all the stardust? In a word, money. Even Also last month, Wendy Liebmann, founder of WSL if the scents don’t survive more than a year or two, the money they Strategic Retail, said, “The [celebrity fragrance] trend is still alive. It’s generate in the short term seems enough for some companies. For just taken on a lot of new faces. The notion of what a celebrity is has instance, Jennifer Lopez’s fi rst scent, Glow by J.Lo, did $100 mil- expanded.” She noted that shoppers have come to view fragrances lion in its fi rst year. And these scents often hit near the tops of the as they do fashion or color trends — i.e., a quick in and out — rather charts shortly after release — as did Lovely Sarah Jessica Parker, than something that could remain in the market for 20 years or more. Unforgivable for Men and Curious by Britney Spears, for instance. “It takes a different mind-set to succeed [these days]. A fragrance “The celebrity fragrance category has really become the ‘fash- doesn’t have to have a 10- to 20-year run anymore. It’s unrealistic to ion’ element of the fragrance business,” Micheline Jordaan, vice think it will.” president and divisional merchandise manager of fragrances for — Julie Naughton Supplements to Fortify Beauty Sales Naturals to See Growth upplements are increasingly Sspilling from pharmacies and In 2008 With USDA Seals health stores to beauty counters as marketers look for more ways NATURAL AND ORGANIC BEAUTY ITEMS CONTINUE to offer the promise of beauty. to trickle onto the beauty scene. Most recently, items These pills, drops and drinks bearing the U.S. Department of Agriculture organic seal are pushing the boundaries of have launched in stores, including items by Origins and beauty outward, with several Nature’s Gate. What makes these launches so newswor- leading dermatologists decreeing thy is that each brand managed to concoct formulas for it’s not enough to slather lotions lotions worthy of the seal — a complicated feat compared onto skin. with making seal-worthy oils and soaps, which require “You can only do so much by little technology or innovation. applying a cream,” said New Additional entries into the organic segment are ex- York dermatologist Nicholas Fushi nutritional items. pected for 2008, including a USDA seal-bearing lotion Perricone, suggesting a three- ments, most of which are designed U.K. decided to introduce Urban line from Alba, owned by the Hain Celestial Group in tiered approach of topicals, a to improve the appearance of skin Healing Pods in department Melville, N.Y. Levlad LLC, the makers of Nature’s Gate, healthy diet and supplements. and hair, are not regulated by the stores, starting in August. The operates a 500,000-square-foot manufacturing plant Current sales indicate that Federal Drug Administration, be- “pods,” or shops-in-shops, will fea- capable of producing up to 100 million units of USDA Europeans have cozied up to the cause they do not claim to change ture “Diagnostic Vitamin Scanning seal-worthy beauty products. Already the company is idea of ingestible beauty more the structure or function of the Systems,” plus sell supplements receiving inquiries from “major companies” interested quickly than their American body, as drugs do, said an FDA and treatment products. The group in learning more about organic formulas, said Nature’s counterparts, but that’s about to spokeswoman. The current lead- is also revamping its presence in Gate chief executive offi cer Paddy Spence. Mass re- change as U.S. sales are projected ers of the U.S. beauty supplement Harrods and Selfridges department tailers are beginning to acknowledge the importance to grow at a faster clip in the com- market include N.V. Perricone stores and will introduce a branded of separating natural and organic items from main- ing years. In 2005, sales of oral M.D., Dr. Brandt, Murad, Kinerase line of supplements this summer. stream items in order to demonstrate their point of dif- beauty supplements were $767.6 and Borba. Recent arrivals to the European ference. In turn, many are planning four- to eight-foot million in Europe, compared with Perhaps one of the most sig- supplements scene include Nude, sets within the beauty aisle, at stores including Target, $741.9 million in the U.S., and are nifi cant indicators of European a natural skin care brand including Walgreens and possibly Rite Aid, which will join CVS projected to reach $1.16 billion in interest in the category is a range of ingestibles, introduced and Longs in their support to showcase items separate- 2010, according to London track- Sephora’s plan to unveil an in- in the U.K. earlier this year. ly with natural and organic ingredients. ing fi rm Datamonitor. U.S. sales store beauty concept highlighting Food and drinks brands are also But while strides are being made in organic beauty, are expected to accelerate to the notion of beauty from within. tapping into the trend. Danone, it seems most consumers, when posed with a choice, $1.17 billion in 2010. The so-called “healthy and beau- for instance, introduced Essensis, would at this time rather have a skin care or hair care “We’re predicting continued ty” bars, which will focus on nu- a vitamin-rich yogurt, which has item that uses high-tech formulas with superior results. strong growth related to the fact tritional supplements and drinks, the tag line, “nourish your skin “I think my customers have yet to really wrap their that people are looking for new will bow in 27 of its French stores from the inside,” in France this arms around [organic],” said Robin Coe-Hutshing, owner ways to look after themselves, es- starting in September. If the con- March, and Sip, a line of nutrient- of the Studio at Fred Segal. Rite Aid’s Kathy Horton pecially their appearance,” said cept proves successful, it could enriched beauty waters, launched said consumers may be apt to try an organic product but Dominik Nosalik, lead analyst at be rolled out further next year. in the U.K. in April. would only use it again if it worked well. “Consumers will Datamonitor. In a similar move, the Farmacia — Molly Prior and not sacrifi ce performance,” she said. In the U.S., beauty supple- Urban Healing retail group in the Brid Costello — Andrea Nagel

her Sacred Locks hair care line in 2003, recalled when she decided to offset the carbon emissions generated by her brand, it was a burdensome task. “The move Beauty’s Business of Going Green was unprecedented in the beauty industry,” she said. Now, companies such as Clarins are designating an executive to oversee sus- LONDON — The beauty industry keeps turning over a new leaf by introducing tainable development. “green,” ecologically sound business methods. At The Communications Store, employees take everyday measures to lessen Aveda, a beauty brand owned by the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., for instance, their environmental impact, including using environmentally friendly taxi ser- switched its major manufacturing plant to wind energy in September 2006. London vices and printing on both sides of paper. Hooper noted that while progress was hairstylist Louise Galvin made her business “carbon neutral” in 2004. And Titanic being made in the beauty industry on the environmental front, there was still a Spa, a treatment center in Huddersfi eld, England, was developed from its birth in long way to go. “[Being environmentally friendly] should be second nature for all 2006 to have its production make as little environmental impact as possible. And of us — whether you’re a natural, organic greener-than-green brand or a doctor’s those are just a few of the beauty companies going au naturel. cosmeceuticals brand,” she said. “Who hasn’t seen ‘An Inconvenient Truth?’” asked Anna Hooper, associate di- Taking ecological issues into account can initially be costly — Galvin said her rector of The Communications Store, a London public relations fi rm that formed a efforts cost several thousand pounds, for example — but it can pay dividends in “green team” last June to contribute to environmentally friendly activities. She was the long term. “Those cost savings are passed on to our clients,” said Hooper. referring to the Oscar-winning documentary by Al Gore about climate change. “Aveda believes profi t and ecological goals are not mutually exclusive,” added “I think beauty companies have an overwhelming responsibility,” said Dominique Conseil, noting environmentally oriented projects saved his fi rm $230,000 per year Conseil, Aveda’s president. “Beauty has to be good. If it’s not good, it’s not beautiful.” between 1996 and 2004. “We go further — and think they’re synergistic.” Going green has become less onerous in recent years. Galvin, who introduced — B.C. PARKER PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO; CAREY BY JIM SPELLMAN/WIREIMAGE JOHN AQUINO; CAREY BY PHOTO BY PARKER WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 6, 2007 11

WWD.COM Klinger, Cosmedicine Part Ways Couture Spotlights Bold Beauty By Molly Prior own Georgette Klinger product offering, accord- PARIS — This haute couture season, beauty was in the eye ing to the fi rm. — and hair — of the beheld at all the shows, from Christian linger Advanced Aesthetics and its product line, After all, products offer a higher margin than Dior to Armani Privé. KCosmedicine, have split into two companies. spa treatments. In a spa retail environment, the Crowns entwined with hair created a spectacular exten- Trueyou.com, the company that owned Klinger universal markup is generally two times cost, sion of coifs ending in ponytails at Jean Paul Gaultier. “There and Cosmedicine, has sold the famed spa busi- while treatment margins are approximately 30 is a masculine side and a feminine side,” said hairstylist ness, formerly known as Georgette Klinger, to percent, said industry sources. Odile Gilbert of the look. Here, makeup artist Tom Pecheux focus on Cosmedicine, a skin care range sold ex- Several weeks ago, the Cosmedicine business, gleaned inspiration from textile prints, and all models sport- clusively in Klinger spas and in Sephora stores. which was headquartered in Klinger’s Manhattan ed darkened brows. Some had eyes encircled with color, such “It’s very diffi cult and it takes a lot of energy fl agship, located at 501 Madison Avenue, moved to as black or rust, as well. and resources to create a skin care temporary offi ce space at 23rd Peepers were the focus at Christian Lacroix, too. “We cre- line from scratch and to develop a spa Street and Park Avenue. ated a very strong, smoky eye,” said makeup artist Stephane business,” said Jane Terker, president The line, which was intro- Marais, who swept hues across models’ lids. He added that of Cosmedicine. “We found that we duced in February 2006, re- with such an accent, models looked “possessed.” As for the un- couldn’t properly or adequately sup- lies on over-the-counter-grade dulating, faux jewel- and ribbon-bedecked dos at the Lacroix port both. We want to build pharmaceutical ingredients show, Gilbert took a cue from former Empress Sisi of Austria. the business where we can and is rooted, as Terker says, Over at Givenchy, hairstylist Luigi Murenu concocted concentrate our resourc- “in science and measurable re- crimped bangs and slick chignons. “We always do soft, long es,” she added, referring to sults.” To that end, at the outset hair for Givenchy,” he said. “This time, it has a little more of Cosmedicine. the company recruited Johns a punk attitude.” The makeup look was created to be “light, Husband and wife team Hopkins Medicine to consult on beautiful and sophisticated,” with Catherine Deneuve in Joseph and Angela Krivulka the clinical trials and quantita- mind, said makeup artist Aaron de Mey. bought the 11-spa chain tively measure product benefi ts. — Jennifer Weil from Trueyou.com in May This summer, Cosmedicine for an undisclosed sum. Both will introduced three new items have backgrounds rooted that build off its star product, in the pharmaceutical in- Medi-Matte, a lotion designed to dustry and, in 2004, Joseph reduce oil. They include Medi- Krivulka cofounded Triax Matte Tint, Healthy Cleanse for Pharmaceuticals, which Cosmedicine products. Oily Skin and Medi-Matte has a therapeutic focus Oil Control Spray. in dermatology. “We will continue to use The Krivulkas plan to ADDING UP BEAUTY a scientifi c lens in terms funnel their interest in of the claims we make,” pharmaceuticals into the said Terker. “Cosmedicine Klinger business and transform the units into med- is true science based on results. That’s where the ical spas that include cosmetic dermatology, skin market is going.” She added that currently there care, hair care, body treatments and retail. The are many claims in the beauty industry “that bor- Klinger Advanced Aesthetics nameplate will be der on the absurd.” replaced with Georgette Klinger Aesthetics, Spa, Before it sold the chain Trueyou.com sought to Jean Salon and Cosmedical Centres. The new owners reposition the spa — known for its facials — as a Armani Paul also plan to introduce cosmetic dentistry and other one-stop shop for beauty and cosmetic enhance- Privé Gaultier services geared toward aesthetic improvement. ment. Executives would not comment on sales, but Under its previous owner, Klinger and Sephora industry sources estimate that each Klinger unit Christian Christian opened a side-by-side retail concept in NorthPark generates about $5 million annually. The company Lacroix Dior Center in Dallas, which allowed the two businesses declined comment on that estimate. to funnel shoppers back and forth from Klinger’s The Cosmedicine range generates an estimated service-driven spa to the product-laden Sephora. $15 million to $25 million in retail sales, and is ex- Klinger’s new owners said that at present the com- pected to grow to about $80 million to $100 million panies have no more side-by-side concepts planned. over the next fi ve years as it expands to doctors Klinger will continue to carry the Cosmedicine offi ces and internationally, according to industry line, but plans to redevelop and reformulate its sources. SpaRitual Line Plants Foot in Body Care

By Michelle Edgar Select

SpaRitual DELPHINE ACHARD PHOTOS BY paRitual is doing body work this summer, ex- body care Spanding its offering from vegan nail polishes products. to a line of hand, foot and body care products. The collection — composed of seven vegan mul- tiuse products and three bath salts — is designed to invigorate the body’s “chakra” energy system. Nightly Skin Repair Cream’s Focus Each of the aromatic fragrances offers spe- cifi c therapeutic benefi ts, such as energizing, ermatologist Fredric Brandt has developed Liquid Skin, soothing and nourishing. The products contain Da cream he hopes consumers will incorporate into their naturally colored vegan ingredients, including evening beauty routines. organic plant extracts. Launched last month, Dr. Brandt’s Liquid Skin preps the Two products in the SpaRitual Hand, Foot skin for a nightly beauty regimen, allowing other products to and Body Spa Collection include Eloquent function at their maximum potential. The cream delivers pro- Toner and Visionary Cleanser, each of which GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY teins and nutrients that restore moisture to the skin. retails for $18. Industry sources estimate that SpaRitual’s “The cream reconstitutes the skin’s epidermis…to im- The Eloquent Toner is a multipurpose an- new body collection will bring in $5 million in prove the overall well-being of the skin,” said Brandt. tioxidant toner that soothes, hydrates and bal- fi rst-year retail sales. Designed to be applied to cleansed skin before other night ances dry skin. It’s composed of Australian tea The four-year-old SpaRitual sells more than creams, the formula is infused with lipids and seven amino tree essential oil designed to energize the throat 80 nail polishes and 12 nail treatments in 23 acids designed to repair aging skin. Lipids help maintain chakra. The Visionary Cleanser is composed of countries and 2,800 spas and salons. The prod- moisture and fi rmness in the skin, while amino acids repair French juniper berry essential oil, which sani- ucts are sold in more than 100 U.S. high-end damaged tissues, stimulating cell regeneration in stress-af- tizes the hands and feet. The cleanser is also destination spas, resorts and day spas, includ- fected skin. The active ingredients also are designed to re- designed to remove oils and residue to enhance ing New York’s Great Jones Spa, the Mandarin store balance to cell metabolism, raising the skin’s oxygen, nail lacquer adhesion and sanitize spa equip- Oriental and Canyon Ranch Spa. The collection nutrient and energy supplies. Retailing for $70, Liquid Skin ment and yoga mats. is also available at Fred Segal. is sold in Henri Bendel, Nordstrom and Sephora, as well as According to Shel Pink, founder of SpaRitual, All the company’s nail polishes are free of other specialty boutiques. The cream is also available online the products were created for professional spas and DBT, dibutyl phthalate, and will be reformulat- at sephora.com and drbrandtskincare.com. salons, but the company wanted to offer consumers ed and free of toulerine and formaldahyde resin Industry sources estimated that Liquid Skin would gener- the line to re-create the experience at home. by October. Unlike most companies, which use ate over $1 million in fi rst-year retail sales. The line uses eco-friendly packaging and fi sh scales to achieve nail lacquer’s shimmer ef- The seven-year-old line has 37 products that are sold in 33 printing processes. The packaging is made from fect, the brand uses mica. countries, and recently was launched in Japan and Beijing. The reusable glass and other recyclable elements, SpaRitual plans to launch a skin care line brand plans to expand its presence in spas early next year. along with soy-based inks. sometime next year. — M.E. 12 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 6, 2007

The Beauty Report WWD.COM New Lip Line Is All Wet Heat Is Key to T3 Style BOSTON — Bonne Bell is looking for the best f there’s anything hairstylist of both worlds — avenues to expand sales to IOrlando Pita and T3 creator its base of preteen consumers while branching Kent Yu want women addicted out to an older audience, including men. to their fl atirons and blow-dry- New product initiatives were unveiled ers to know, it’s that “heat is at the National Association of Chain Drug your friend.” Stores Marketplace meeting last week in Heat, according to the styling Boston, ranging from gift collectibles to a world’s famous hairdresser and new line of lip products under a licensing the tool industry’s wunderkind, agreement with Dasani bottled water. isn’t the same heat that helped The Dasani deal extends Bonne Bell’s suc- Farrah Fawcett’s hair do that cessful licensing program, which includes lip famous fl ip. These days, heat, products bearing the Skittles, M&M, Jell-O specifi cally heat made by ionic and Coca-Cola logos. The success of the Coke heating tools, is another kind program was a natural segue to the Dasani altogether. collection. According to Bonne Bell offi- “Ionic heat has negative ions cials, 18- to 35-year-old women buy the most which protect the hair. The truth lip care products, and Dasani is the leading is that this is a different kind of bottled water brand among that age group. heat,” said Yu. Combine that with the stellar reputation And a different kind of heat, Bonne Bell has built and the line has instant he said, calls for a different kind recognition, according to the company. There of styling product. are both traditional lip balms and slim lines “Why use old-school styling in the assortment. products?” Yu asked. During the meeting, Bonne Bell’s chief That said, the pair worked marketing offi cer James Ward explained to together over the past year to retailers that Dasani develop two styling items made not only appealed to to work with ionic fl atirons and women, but was taking the like, where heat does much the Bonne Bell name less damage to hair. to male users, too. The result is T3 360 Plump, Bonne Bell decided a product designed to volumize to put its name on the hair with a weightless finish. package — albeit in Plump’s formula includes keratin small type. The company apparently learned Dasani protein and vitamin B complex from other beauty manufacturers who mis- previewed its and works with heat to deliver takenly did not put their well-established new lip balms thicker hair. Plump will retail brand on new products, which ultimately at NACDS for $40 for a 4-oz. container. Marketplace. T3 360’s Plump failed, retailers said. There is also T3 360 Boost, and Boost items. Dasani isn’t the only bottled water brand which uses a heat-activated kera- looking to make a beauty connection. Last year, Aquafi na was joined with a lip balm and that project has been ex- tin blend to leave hair glossy and tended to a full line of skin care produced by Added Extras. Even Vichy gets its name from the famous water logo. frizz-free. Only a pea-sized amount of Boost is needed At NACDS, Bonne Bell showed ways to merchandise the Coke brands for visual impact in stores. Wal-Mart to work, explained Pita. Boost will cost $40 for 1 oz. will feature a special Coke gift tin for holiday 2007. Boost and Plump were researched and tested by Bonne Bell exhibited what retailers said were some of the most interesting holiday gifts from the company T3’s heat appliance research and development de- in years. Bonne Bell has lost footage at some retailers as new and aggressive lines have entered. Retailers said partment, as well as by chemical consultants, and this effort looks to bring back the appeal of the line, one of the oldest and most revered in drug chains. uses T3’s proprietary nanotechnology. Among the new items: a metal roller ball for Smackers Biggie Lips (the oversize Smacker) and Collector’s T3, which is based in Gardena, Calif., entered Kits. The kits are huge assortments of lip balms priced at $25. The gift sets will make their debut at Toys “R” Us. the beauty world in 2004 when it introduced the According to Maribeth Kwasniewski, brand manager for Smackers, the kits are often purchased as collector’s Featherweight Dryer, one that uses a patented items. There is also an 11-piece collector’s kit at $19.99. tourmaline technology designed to dry hair fast- ● ● ● er and leave it shinier. It retails for $200. When Eyeing merchandise space in the beauty department, executives at clothing companies saw an opportunity to heated, explained Yu, tourmaline creates nega- show their wares at NACDS. As women wear more revealing styles, many are borrowing tips from runways and tive ions and infrared heat waves, which imparts purchasing specialty items to ensure their undergarments don’t make unwanted appearances. Solutions such a multitude of benefi ts. To make Boost and Plump, as double-sided tape, nipple petals and gadgets to adapt bras to shirts had been available only in specialty and Yu reached out to third-party suppliers. Pita tested department stores. Now, several buyers said they were adding these items to their inventory and most will mer- each styling product during many of his sessions on chandise them in the beauty department. models and celebrities around the world, offering “These items are very productive in incremental dollars per foot,” explained Ted Davis, president of Braza, his opinion on what each item needed in order to which displayed the Supportables line, one of three companies offering undergarment solutions. Retailers liked perform better. the chance to offer shoppers quick fi xes at the last minute. “You are going out and you have a gap in your shirt.... Both items will enter stores including Sephora, You can go to the drugstore,” said one. Ulta, Nordstrom and select salons in October. Added another, with a chuckle, “NACDS is all about bras this year...and, of course, the paternity test kit. — Andrea Nagel Guess they sometimes go together.”

for $46 on the show “Beauty Newsmakers.” For nearly two from $1.40 for a lip balm to $8.99 for the lotion. years, Hersh has offered apparel and accessories items that have found a following in her store and in Hollywood to the PERFECT PILL: Vitabiotics Perfectil, a leading beauty and SNIPPETS QVC audience. “If you don’t have a chance to get to L.A., health supplement in the U.K. and Europe, is now available here’s a chance to get a piece of Hollywood at a great value,” in the United States. For more than 35 years, the British said Hersh, explaining her appeal on the shopping channel. company has manufactured leading consumer health care HAIR RESEARCH: L’Oréal is set to create a hair care research She added that iT has been available at her store for a year products that typically provide up to 28 essential vitamins, center in the Paris suburb of Saint-Ouen. Around 600 and has been picked up by various celebrities, including trace minerals and bioactive nutrients. Perfectil is a one- researchers and technicians will be based at the 3.7-acre Denise Richards, Carmen Electra, Tori Spelling and Britney a-day tablet that provides nourishment for skin, hair and site, which is to be operational by 2010. “The new hair Spears. Due to legal reasons, Hersh will not discuss those nail tissues and also doubles as a complete multivitamin. care laboratories we are announcing today correspond to names on QVC. Instead, she will elaborate on the fragrance Antioxidants protect against sun damage and wrinkles this organization’s modern and original vision, to service the by showing viewers its ingredients such as honeysuckle, while natural plant extracts increase radiant beauty, said performance of our research and the safety of laboratories,” tangerine, grapefruit, night blooming jasmine and blue tiger a company spokesperson. The supplement is available at said Jean-François Grollier, L’Oréal’s executive vice president lily. “IT came out of my own mixes of scents through the drugstores nationwide and retails for $16.99 for 30 tablets. of research and development, in a statement issued Monday. years and people asking me what I am wearing,” Hersh said. He added the French beauty giant considered it important to After her QVC beauty launch, she plans to grow the iT line SITE APPEAL: In November, London-based perfumery locate the new site near its French research centers in Clichy with oil, candles, bath products and hair care. “They [QVC] Ormonde Jayne will launch a new e-commerce Web site in and Asnières. L’Oréal did not disclose how much it will are very much behind me,” she said. the U.S. that will allow customers to browse new products invest in the project. More than 3,000 people work in the and receive them the next day. Products available on the company’s 16 research centers around the world. In 2006, CLEAR SKIN: BioCare Labs has launched a new skin care site will include Ormonde Jayne’s famous scented candles, L’Oréal spent 533 million euros, or $726 million at current line, Naturally Clear Skin, aimed to nourish and refresh skin Parfum Absolute, Eau de Parfum and a new bathing range exchange, on research, and logged 569 patents. at drugstore prices. Products include BodyButter lotion, free of parabens, sulphates, petrochemicals and artifi cial BodyButter cream, body oil, healing hand cream and lip balm. colors. In conjunction with the launch of the Web site, T.V. SCENTS: Jaye Hersh is expanding her QVC repertoire into Each product contains advanced concentrations of shea and Ormonde Jayne’s newest scent, Orris Noir — a dark, spicy beauty with the Tuesday launch of the perfume iT. The owner cocoa butter, essential oils and vitamins to deliver maximum oriental — will be available online as a Parfum d’Or Naturel, of the Los Angeles boutique Intuition will sell a 2-oz. bottle hydration. The line is available nationwide with prices ranging an Essential Bathing Oil and as a large scented candle. WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 6, 2007 13

The HBA Report WWD.COM Professional Products Built for Style

A slew of new styling and hair care items look to keep locks healthy all through summer and well into fall. By Andrea Nagel

Four new volumizing items are coming out this month under Tigi’s Superstar brand, including a Volumizing Hairspray, a Volumizing Leave-In Conditioner, a conditioner and a sulfate-free shampoo. The shampoo, which sells for $15.95, is formulated to safely cleanse color-treated hair and uses panthenol to add volume. The conditioner, priced at $16.95, aims FHI Heat has a new ceramic tourmaline styling iron on tap for summer. The to control static and add new Platform Special Edition is more lightweight, has snag-proof corners volume to hair. The spray and uses a special coating to make for a smoother glide between hair and and leave-in conditioner, the ceramic plates than existing Platform irons. The new Platform enters each priced at $16.95, are stores and salons this month and sells for $195, only about $10 more than designed to add shine and existing Platforms. control frizz.

ThermaFuse Control Extra Firm Gel uses its HeatSmart Complex to protect Yarok, founded by hair from heat given off by blow-dryers, fl atirons and the like. The gel, which hairstylist Mordechai is formulated to provide extra fi rm hold without fl aking, also uses a vanilla and Alvow, is launching a blackberry scent. Available in salons this month, ThermaFuse Control Extra Firm shampoo and conditioner Gel sells for $16.50. to help volumize hair. Yarok Green With Envy Volume Shampoo aims to plump hair with chickweed, horsetail, slippery elm and comfrey root. The shampoo also uses natural surfactants rather than synthetic versions. The conditioner uses organic jojoba seed oil, macadamia nut oil and organic aloe vera to condition hair. The shampoo, which will sell for $22, and the conditioner, priced at $25, arrive in salons in Bain de Terre September. has been restaged to include botanicals in its Ted Gibson is always formulas, hence excited about style, the new name especially his new Bain de Terre style collection, It Botaniceuticals. Series. Fix It, Tame Refl ective of It and Build It each the brand’s contain a proprietary evolution merlot complex to is softer promote shine and packaging body. Build It, a and products blow-drying agent that utilize selling for $28, aims pesticide-free to build body and ingredients, volume. Tame It, a such as goji shine lotion priced berry, black at $31, is designed currant, to tame fl yaways magnolia and adds weightless bark and wild shine. Fix It, a gel jujube. Four costing $28, is used Hair Therapy prior to blow-drying items have for shine and light been added to round out the collection of shampoos, conditioners and styling to medium hold. The products, including Sugar & Fig Scalp Massage Scrub, Hair Strengthening Mud It Series enters stores Mask, Recovery Complex Replenishing Hair Balm and White Lotus Reparative and salons this month Reconstructor. Bain de Terre Botaniceuticals ships to salons in September. including Saks Fifth Prices range from $10 for shampoo to $18 for select Hair Therapy items. Avenue and Sephora. PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO AND GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTOS BY 14 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 6, 2007 WWD.COM Fast Retailing Makes Bid for Barneys

Continued from page one tial top-line synergies in having Barneys Eastern fund did not respond with a as a member of its global retailing group.” higher offer, insisting in a statement that Fast Retailing has been keen on the it was sticking with its earlier bid. Jones U.S. retail space for the past year. Last Apparel Group Inc., Barneys’ parent, de- fall, investment bankers noted the com- clined to comment beyond a statement ac- pany’s interest in acquiring a U.S. retail- knowledging Fast Retailing’s offer. Peter er, although the target couldn’t be ascer- J. Solomon, the investment banker advis- tained. There was speculation it might ing Istithmar, also declined comment. have looked at one of the divisions of Gap The speculation was only fueled when Inc., since Uniqlo has been operated as a Fast Retailing, in its statement, said it had Japanese version of casual apparel. approached Jones last fall about buying The fi rm even attempted to purchase Barneys. That was only a few months after casual apparel competitor, Hong Kong- Jones gave up its attempt to sell itself as based Giordano International Ltd., last a whole when no adequate offers came fall. Negotiations fell apart and an agree- forward. WWD fi rst reported in April that ment was never reached. Similar to Zara Jones was in talks with private equity in- and Hennes & Mauritz, Fast Retailing vestors about selling Barneys separately. is known for its ability to get products “Fast [Retailing] is a very aggres- quickly from the design team to produc- sive company, with an incredible busi- tion and then into its shops. ness in Japan,” said Marvin Traub, of Fast Retailing was founded in 1963 Marvin Traub Associates, who has done by chief executive offi cer Tadashi Yanai, a lot of work in the Middle East. “The who revolutionized Japanese fashion re- stock grew and became a commodity to tailing with his Uniqlo chain that made acquire things. It is in a totally different low-cost, colorful basics chic in a mar- business from Barneys, so this would be ket known more for its taste for luxury. diversifying. I would be very surprised if While Uniqlo has had its ups and downs Istithmar didn’t respond. Istithmar has in Japan in recent years, the parent Inside Uniqlo’s fl agship in SoHo. company has been eager to expand the ally, while respecting the heritage of the concept in Europe brand and culture of our company.” and the U.S., where The Japanese company’s entrance into it opened a store in the race to buy Barneys was enabled by a Union Square here “fi duciary out” clause in Jones’ agreement last November and with Istithmar that allows the U.S. group revealed plans to to consider any rival offer received before follow with units July 22. All due diligence and negotiations in Paris, Milan and with such a third party would have to be even Shanghai. completed by Aug. 11. In that event, Jones Fast Retailing cur- would have to pay a termination fee of rently operates 1,800 $20.6 million to Istithmar. If Jones ends specialty stores in the deal with Istithmar after July 22, the over 12 countries. breakup fee rises to $22.7 million. For the year ended But the latest nonbinding proposal, al- August 2006, Fast though a higher offer than the Istithmar Retailing had con- agreement, is by no means a done deal. solidated overall net Fast Retailing still has to do its due dili- sales of $3.7 billion gence, as well as negotiate a binding and a consolidated agreement with Jones. The agreement operating profit of with Istithmar has not been terminated $586 million. Among and remains in effect. the best known Neither the Istithmar deal nor the global brands within Fast Retailing proposal includes the the Fast Retailing Japanese license for Barneys Japan, Group are Uniqlo, which is owned by Sumitomo Corp. and Theory, Comptoir Tokyo Marine Capital. des Cotonniers and A fi nancial source familiar with the Princesse tam.tam. terms of the Jones-Istithmar deal called Uniqlo is Japan’s the “fi duciary out” clause “clever,” noting largest apparel retail that by going the route of a private equity Barneys New York on chain with approxi- house, the apparel giant was able to se- Madison Avenue. mately 750 stores cure both a fl oor for the purchase price throughout Japan, and still get another bidder to come in at a higher proposal that was enough to both top the initial bid and cover the $20.6 million breakup fee. Barneys CEO [Fast Retailing]…is in a totally different business “This is wonderful for shareholders of Howard Socol. “ Jones. The company gets extra money for from Barneys, so this would be diversifying. I would doing almost nothing,” the source said. and ceo of Jones, said the group will have If a deal is reached with Fast Retailing, net cash proceeds after taxes and trans- be very surprised if Istithmar didn’t respond. the source said the new agreement would action expenses of approximately $770 ” likely have its own breakup fee, and per- million. — Marvin Traub, Marvin Traub Associates haps would include some limitations on But there’s not much known about unsolicited proposals to just bids for the Fast Retailing’s plans for the luxury some background in luxury goods and as well as stores in the U.S., the United entire company, which would also include chain, a fact that troubles some industry real estate. But both companies are com- Kingdom, South Korea and China, in- Barneys New York. Unsolicited bids for veterans. ing at Barneys in different ways.” cluding Hong Kong. the entire company were also contemplat- “In my judgment, Barneys doesn’t While Fast Retailing is primar- So far Fast Retailing has acquired ed in the Jones-Istithmar transaction. fi t the more basic promotion-oriented ily known for its Uniqlo chain, industry footwear retail chain Onezone Corp. Istithmar said in a statement: “We Uniqlo,” said Walter Loeb, a former Wall sources said the Barneys bid fi ts in with (2005); Créations Nelson SAS, the de- believe that our defi nitive agreement to Street retail analyst and now consultant. its three-year business plan that includes veloper of the Comptoir des Cotonniers acquire Barneys New York for $825 mil- From a strategic vantage point, Loeb between $2.7 billion to $3.6 billion for in- brand (2005); Petit Vehicule SAS, devel- lion refl ects a full and fair valuation for prefers the deal struck with Istithmar. vestments to help it expand both over- oper of the Princesse tam.tam brand the company. We remain committed to “The Dubai fi rm said it will leave Barneys seas and in Asia, with a combined com- (2005), and Cabin Co. Ltd. (2006). Fast closing this transaction and continue to alone, and let current management run pany sales goal of $8.8 billion by 2010. Retailing acquired an equity stake in be enthusiastic about working in partner- the business and grow the retail chain Fast Retailing said in a statement that Link Theory Holdings, the marketer of ship with the strong management team of organically. It makes more sense to me, it is “pleased that Jones’ board of direc- the Theory and Helmut Lang apparel Barneys to grow this unique asset further especially that Barneys is now just blos- tors has concluded that [Fast Retailing]’s brands, in 2004. and create an even brighter future for the soming. What will Fast Retailing do? Will proposal is reasonably likely to lead to a “In my personal experience working company.” it buy back Barneys Japan at some point? superior offer for Barneys.” with Fast Retailing for the past three No one doubts that Jones is making a Fast Retailing could do a lot of things, but The group said it believes Barneys years, I have acquired great respect for healthy return on its Barneys investment. my impression is that the private label “has attractive long-term growth poten- their vision as global retailers,” said The apparel and footwear group ac- orientation of Uniqlo is not in sync with tial through its leadership position in the Andrew Rosen, president and founder of quired Barneys in 2004 for $397.5 million the operation of Barneys,” he said. luxury segment in the U.S., as well as in Theory. “They have been an ideal part- and will net approximately $290 million — With contributions from Koji the affordable luxury segment through ner for us at Theory by supporting our from the sale of the chain. Due to some Hirano, Japan, Miles Socha, Paris Barneys Co-op. Fast Retailing sees poten- platform to expand our business glob- tax benefi ts, Peter Boneparth, president and David Moin, New York PHOTOS BY RICHARD PIERCE PHOTOS

WWD The Style Issue

Focus on styling products and tools. The “It” list of independent professional companies. An analysis of the natural and organic category in the salon sector. Hair trends from Paris couture runways. ISSUE: SEPTEMBER 7 CLOSE: AUGUST 2

For advertising information, contact Jay Spaleta, publisher, at WWDStyle Starts Here™ 212-630-4831; Ron Troxell, senior account manager, West Coast, at 323-965-7285, or your WWD sales representative. 16 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 6, 2007

Media/Advertising A TMZ for Hollywood Moguls By Jacob Bernstein ikki Finke is not your average Hollywood enter- Ntainment journalist. For one thing, she professes to have no interest in most of what appears in movie theaters. In fact, she barely seems to leave her house. “I hate cocktail parties,” she says. Plus, she adds “I’m an insulin-dependent diabetic.” For another, she’s not remotely starstruck. “I could care less about Brad Pitt,” she says dismissively. But what really sets Finke, 53, apart from the pack is her attitude toward the industry’s executives, whom she chronicles obsessively on her blog and whom she by and large seems to hate. Harvey On Deadlinehollywooddaily.com, which she writes Brad Grey Ron Meyer Weinstein Jeff Zucker for the Web site of LA Weekly, Finke has suggested Rupert Murdoch is senile, called Barry Diller “an arro- and was also known for lots of interoffi ce drama. Others who wind up in Finke’s line of fi re sometimes gant SOB,” and referred to Sumner Redstone as “a sep- “She was legendarily late with stories and on a week- explain her success by saying she’s right just enough tuagenarian jerk.” Three weeks ago, she laid into HBO ly that’s a problem,” says Lisa Chase, who edited her at that everyone has to keep reading her. A few months for its “lousy” “Sopranos” ending and advised readers to The Observer. One week, Finke’s writer’s block was so ago, Finke reported that Grey went to a dinner party cancel their subscriptions to the station. “David Chase bad Chase had her dictate her reporting into the phone in Hollwyood, where he made a number of disparaging clearly didn’t give a damn about his fans,” she com- as Chase transcribed it and turned it into a column. “But comments about DreamWorks’ David Geffen. It turned plained about the series’ creator. “He crapped in their we got it done and it was great,” the former editor says. out Grey hadn’t even been there. Finke then changed faces. This is why America hates Hollywood.” In 2000, Finke’s stint at New York magazine ended the item, attributing the remarks to Redstone, whom she Almost anyone writing like this would be ignored or when she failed to hand in a single column for six said was quoting Grey. “I was mistaken,” she says, “but laughed at. But when Finke sinks her teeth into some- months. According to two sources who worked at the it was [wrong] for maybe half an hour.” thing, people increasingly take notice. magazine then, her excuses evidently ran the gamut from When Geffen wound up in a war with the Clintons In February, she reported the discord between ex- the benign to the baroque, and included having been over disparaging comments he’d made about them ecutives at DreamWorks and Paramount, which had co- evicted from her apartment, having had her electric- to The New York Times, Finke reported Sen. Hillary fi nanced “Babel” and “Dreamgirls,” both of which were ity turned off and having been stranded in Los Angeles Clinton’s mouthpiece Howard Wolfson was not long for awards season favorites. The suits at Paramount denied because LAX was under lockdown due to bomb threats. the job. Several months later, he has yet to be fi red. the story up and down, but a few weeks later, The New “We checked,” recalls a source. “There were no reports “That’s what my source told me,” says Finke, as if she bears York Times ran a juicy interview with of a bomb threat.” “I’m Calamity Jane,” no responsibility for reporting something that didn’t pan out. DreamWorks’ Steven Spielberg in which Nikki Finke says, confi rming the fi rst two anec- Still, the more surprising thing is how often she’s the director conceded all of the essential Finke dotes. She says she has no recollection of right. “My problem, it’s a tragedy actually,” she says, “is points laid out earlier by Finke’s article. being stuck in Los Angeles. that I’m a Cassandra. I’m a canary in a f---g coal mine.” On the Friday of Memorial Day week- She continues, “I’ve had huge self-de- (A disclaimer: Included among the projects Finke has end this year, Finke broke the news that structive streaks. There was a lot of drama trashed was the movie “Bewitched,” which was directed NBC entertainment president Kevin in my personal life, and that sometimes by this reporter’s mother, Nora Ephron. Finke wrote it Reilly was about to be replaced by Ben spilled into the offi ce. Some of it was peo- wasn’t going to succeed. She turned out to be correct.) Silverman, the producer of “The Offi ce” ple exaggerating, some of it was me.” In her cartoon-like universe, Hollywood becomes an and “Ugly Betty.” She scored a book deal with Hyperion endless series of gods and monsters, heroes and villains, Her longtime friend Bernie Weinraub, to write an account of the agency busi- predators and victims. who covered Los Angeles for The New ness, then never delivered the fi nal prod- Tracking the site’s treatment of Finke’s heroes York Times, says, “She’s the most impor- uct. “She was a hell of a reporter, and may provide clues about the identities of her sources. tant journalist in Hollywood today. She sets she would tell us incredible stuff,” says Several of her former editors named Universal Studios the agenda for what appears elsewhere.” the publisher at Hyperion, Joni Evans. president Ron Meyer as a fountain of information for At a time when The Drudge Report, The Huffi ngton “She could dazzle you with amazing stories and they her over the years. Here’s how his contract extension Post and Gawker serve as global billboards for a report- all seemed to be real. But getting it down on paper, she was handled on her blog: “It’s not only a miracle…It’s er’s scoop, Finke has vaulted to the front of a new pack couldn’t do.” (“My agent has the manuscript now, and certainly a footnote in the history books of showbiz.” of journalists who lack the backing of a major news or- it’s going out next week,” Finke counters.) Meyer did not respond to requests for comment. “I ganization but manage nevertheless to wield a similar In 1999, a job prospect at Inside.com dried up when haven’t talked to Ron in weeks,” Finke claims. level of infl uence. And people in Hollywood are clearly Finke inexplicably got up and walked out of her inter- Last month, she swatted at Page Six for a snarky item it playing ball with her, even if they won’t say so publicly. view with Kurt Andersen and Michael Hirschorn. (“I wrote about former HBO head Michael Fuchs, who is said “I generally admire her,” says one well-known pro- thought Michael was kind of a jerk and fi nally I just said, by some industry sources to be a confi dant of Finke’s. The ducer who takes her calls. “She does her homework and ‘I don’t want to do this’” is the way Finke remembers it.) gossip column implied he was a bitter washout. breaks news.” Shortly thereafter, she was hired by the business sec- “Not so,” began Finke’s refutation. “Fuchs is producing “I read her religiously,” says a studio executive, who tion of the New York Post. A few months into the job, she a TV series whose pilot script is being written now for HBO. requested anonymity lest he antagonize his own boss, wrote a story about a legal dispute between The Walt It’s a dark one-hour comedy about corporations from the top who gets scorched by Finke. Disney Co. and the family that owns the commercial rights down. Who better to know about this than Fuchs, right?” But others see Finke as being emblematic of what’s to Winnie The Pooh. In court fi lings, Disney admitted to “He’s really out of entertainment, he’s not really a most dangerous about the Web — a Walter Winchell in trashing fi les related to the case. Finke compared Disney’s source,” says Finke. cyberspace who emotionally blackmails people into actions to Enron and its accounting fi rm Arthur Andersen, She frequently complains reporters don’t acknowledge giving her information and uses her perch to settle which was then in the news for having shredded docu- that she broke the news fi rst when they follow her items up scores with those she dislikes. “She’s a monster,” one ments. Massive complaints ensued from Disney and Finke in their own publications. “They never credit me,” she says. Hollywood heavyweight says. “And people are giving her was fi red. In a statement, the Post said there’d been “seri- This is surprising to her, she explains, because Finke power and talking to her because they’re afraid of her.” ous inaccuracies” with a number of her stories. contends she almost never personally insults other report- As with everything, Finke’s response to this varies “It was bulls--t,” Weinraub says of News Corp.’s al- ers in print, even when noting their inaccuracies. “Very about as much as the time of day. “I’m just the messen- legation. rarely will I raise their names,” Finke says. “I know what ger,” she says during one of many telephone conversa- “I never knew her to make anything up,” says Lisa the process is like. It’s unfair to criticize individuals.” tions from her apartment in Los Angeles. “It’s not my Chase. Except of course when she does. Since January, Finke fault these people do what they do to each other. It’s not Finke sued Disney and News Corp. for libel and they has dumped on the L.A. Times’ Kim Christensen, Chuck my fault they make stinky movies. I just report it.” agreed to settle out of court. Still, victory didn’t help her Philips and James Rainey; The New York Times’ Bill Carter; During another, she says, “Would I like to cure job prospects. “It was a case where the cure was worse Variety’s Anne Thompson; The New Yorker’s Ken Auletta, and Hollywood? Yes.” than the disease,” recalls Finke, who could not discuss Portfolio’s Amy Wallace, all of whom she mentioned by name. ● ● ● the terms of the settlement because of a mutual non-dis- From time to time, Finke’s colleagues have thrown Nikki Finke grew up well-to-do in New York, a paragement clause. “Nobody would hire me. I remember the book at her. Then it’s war. Former Gawker editor Jewish debutante in an era when the term was practi- going into Starbucks one day, and I thought, they have Jesse Oxfeld made the mistake of calling her crazy for a cally an oxymoron. She attended The Hewitt School and good health benefi ts. Maybe I’ll become a barrista.” piece that appeared about her last year. Which caused then Wellesley, which her parents thought would help Happily, a former L.A. Times colleague began giving Finke to fl ip her lid, though there’s a strange logic to her land a good husband. her work for the LA Weekly, which led to a column. Her this since going ballistic on the people who call you in- “I was raised to be a vase on a mantlepiece and a targets still griped about what she wrote, but alternative sane generally makes them fearful about calling you in- corporate wife and I have rebelled against it my entire newspapers usually encourage reporters to be indignant sane again. Finke puts her reaction in the past, saying, life,” says Finke, who had a marriage that ended in the about anything involving a boardroom and a corporate “I made a mistake.” But she thinks the criticism itself early Eighties. “I don’t like authority and I don’t like jet, which made it a good fi t with Finke’s ethos. “These stinks of misogyny. “Women who have strong opinions people in power.” companies have shareholders,” she says. are subjected to unbelievable attacks,” she says. She started her journalism career at the Associated After lots of prodding her editors for a Web site, Finke also professes to be hurt that the Web column hasn’t Press followed by a brief stint at the Dallas Morning Deadlinehollywooddaily.com went live in March 2006, led to more job offers. “None of them want me,” she com- News, then went on to spend much of the Eighties at marking the real turning point in her ongoing saga: A plains. “They don’t want me personally. They don’t want my Newsweek, based in Washington, and then Los Angeles. blog is a pretty powerful weapon in the hands of a report- reporting. I got one job offer and it was from Mediabistro.” In 1987, she got scooped up by the Los Angeles Times, er with lots of opinions. Suddenly her vendettas and her But about this, she’s aware it might be for the best. then went on to contract writing jobs at The New York inability to deal with authority became assets. She has “I’m not good with bosses,” she admits. “And I love what Observer and New York magazine. She delivered big been particularly harsh on Weinstein, who’s had a dif- I do now. I love this Web site. It’s the most fantastic and scoops on Harvey Weinstein’s aggressive Oscar cam- fi cult run since leaving Disney. And she’s been a constant freeing thing in the world. I make my deadlines. I de- paigning, Michael Ovitz’s Machiavellian business tactics thorn in the side of Brad Grey, the head of Paramount. cide what I write. I have total control.” WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 6, 2007 17 WWD.COM

“You make decisions about the reunion of past-their-prime prep myth-makers, has gotten issue, but you also make decisions on Jay McInerney and Whit Stillman to each write pieces. a long-term idea. Whether you love this With a new chairman, Bob Hoff, and a reported infl ux MEMO PAD person or hate this person, you still say of cash, the magazine will be moving for the second time this is a long-term [decision]. Months this year. The new offi ce at 19th and Park Avenue in New FINAL WORD: So which of the weeklies won from now people will remember we had York, to be occupied by the BlackBook guides and the the war of words in covering Paris Hilton’s the interview with Paris Hilton,” said magazine starting July 18, will be one-and-a-half times release from jail — People or Us Weekly? Hackett. the size of the most recent offi ce on Great Jones Street

A/WIREIMAGE According to the newsstand performance, The July 9 issue was the fi rst time and Broadway. And that long-promised issue frequency it’s pretty much a draw. People covered People featured Hilton on its cover, increase, from six to 10, is now slated for the February the Hilton story exhaustively, landing an according to Hackett, but it’s unlikely issue, with accompanying hires planned. exclusive interview with the heiress after she will receive this level of coverage Garbarino said the Web site will be relaunched with she was released from jail on June 26 going forward. “The story was what a daily blog, and he’s currently making fi nal decisions and featured the fresh-faced Hilton in a did she go through in jail; how did she on potential bloggers. He’s hired the magazine’s fi rst seven-page spread in the magazine. The weather this experience. I don’t know if marketing and promotions director to create the added New York Post reported the magazine was there will still be reason to put her on the value partnerships so beloved of magazines — an Oscar willing to pay $300,000 to Getty Images cover in the future.” party is tentatively planned — and is also close to hiring a for photo rights, but the deal was eventually But there’s another story that will West Coast editor. — Irin Carmon scrapped, and People paid no money for the interview or always hold strong for People — the life and times of for photos. Us Weekly, meanwhile, decided to boycott the Princess Diana. On Monday, the magazine will release FINDING A PLACE: Yet another former Time Inc. executive story both in the magazine and on its Web site, putting a “Diana: An Amazing Life,” a photo book with more than is set to fi nd a place among the private equity ranks. photo portfolio of Hollywood babies on its cover instead. 180 pages of stories and photos from People’s archives. According to sources, Robin Domeniconi will shortly join (Us Weekly reportedly offered to donate money to charity Princess Diana has appeared on 123 People covers, 57 of Avista Capital as a consultant; Avista was formed in 2005 in exchange for an interview, but Hilton’s camp declined.) which have had her as the main image, by former partners at DLJ Merchant People’s gamble seemingly paid off — according to and is typically a top-selling subject for Banking Partners. Domeniconi was Time sources familiar with scan data, its July 9 issue sold more the magazine. — Stephanie D. Smith Inc. media group president for just over a than 1.5 million copies and was one of the top 10 best- year after serving four years as publisher, selling issues for the fi rst half of the year. A spokesman for AIMING TO BE A PLAYER: A year into his and eventually president, of Real Simple, Us Weekly declined to comment on its numbers, but an editorship of BlackBook, Steve Garbarino but left the company in March. According Us Weekly source said its July 9 issue sold above average is doing his utmost to, in his own to sources close to Avista, Domeniconi on newsstand. Through December 2006, Us Weekly sold words, move “forward and away from will help advise the private equity 978,285 single copies per week, according to the Audit being an artsy boutique publication, group on new media deals as it looks Bureau of Circulations. and more a magazine of substance to expand its holdings in that sector. “I’m pleased. It came in right where it was supposed to in investigative content and narrative In December, Avista acquired the Star be,” said Larry Hackett, People’s managing editor. fashion. Be a real player in the Tribune from The McClatchy Company Hackett still felt it was important to go big with the magazine world.” for $530 million. This year, according to Hilton story, though it had been exhaustively covered by And despite the often chaotic world sources close to the company, the fi rm various Web sites and television news outlets by the time of alternative magazines at large — the has looked at acquiring The Robb Report People’s Hilton interview hit newsstands on June 29. “She small-scale vendettas, the dubious ad and Dennis Publishing, and made a bid was what people were talking about, and that‘s where we practices, the embittered freelancers for the Time4 Media stable of magazines. want to be,” explained Hackett. “I said the same thing a — no one could fault Garbarino on Dennis Publishing eventually went to year ago, with the Shiloh [Jolie-Pitt] baby pictures.” People sheer effort to make the magazine into Quadrangle Group in June for around reportedly paid $4.1 million for the exclusive domestic a legitimate infl uencer. He’s enlisted fellow Vanity Fair $250 million, while Swedish media conglomerate The rights to those photos; the issue was its highest seller of contributing editor Nancy Jo Sales to write the next cover Bonnier Group bought the Time4 Media titles in January, the year. story on Carolyn Murphy, and in a perhaps unintentional also for approximately $250 million. — S.D.S. MEYER PHOTO BY JEFFREY MAYER/WIREIMAGE; ZUCKER BY RAY TAMARRA/GETTY IMAGES; WEINSTEIN BY STEVE EICHNER; GREY BY ALBERT L. ORTEG ALBERT STEVE EICHNER; GREY BY IMAGES; WEINSTEIN BY TAMARRA/GETTY RAY ZUCKER BY JEFFREY MAYER/WIREIMAGE; MEYER PHOTO BY

Know what’s now.

K_\e\nmf`Z\f]]Xj_`fe#jkpc\Xe[Y\Xlkp_Xj\d\i^\[1@dX^\]ifdk_\ Cfj8e^\c\jK`d\j%J_fnZXj`e^Jf:XcËjki\e[j\kk\ij#e\n\jkYflk`hl\j Xe[cXk\jkjXdgc\jXc\j%FYj\im`e^\m\ipk_`e^]ifdk_\Zlckf]pf^Xkfk_\ ZiXq\f]Zfjd\k`Zjli^\ip%B\\g`e^pflXkk_\]fi\]ifekf]jkpc\%

Next issue: Sunday, July 15

FASHION | BEAUTY | STYLE | SHOPPING

latimes.com/image

I\XZ_Xe\Zc\Zk`ZXe[`eÕl\ek`XcXl[`\eZ\% KfX[m\ik`j\ZXcc1J_Xeefe?Xe\j)(*%)*.%+-+-fi:_i`jjpIXdjb`)()%++/%)0)/ 07BR044 18 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 6, 2007 WWD.COM Ralph Brings Rugby to Colette for World Cup

By Emilie Marsh PARIS — Leave it to Ralph Lauren to take rugby styles from the pitch to the Parisian streets. With the Rugby World Cup in France just two months away, Ralph Lauren said it would present a selection of styles from its Rugby brand at Colette in Paris from Sept. 3 to 15 to coincide with the tournament’s kickoff here. “Rugby looks young and hip. It has an attitude, a point of view and it’s constantly changing. There’s a heritage and a sensibility, but it’s not necessarily about fashion, it’s about taste and style. It is something that I’ve thought about for a long time and it’s a dream come true,” the designer said in a statement. Rugby, owned by Polo Ralph Lauren Corp., launched its fi rst unit on Newbury Street in Boston in October 2004. It has nine freestanding stores in the U.S., primarily in college towns. To welcome the brand’s launch outside America, Colette plans to remodel a section of its store to resemble the New York shop on University Place. Wood fl oors, American vin- tage rugs and furniture and black-and-white posters will create a Rugby shop-in-shop feel. The collection, for both men and women, boasts au- thentic details such as vintage-inspired colors and heritage rugby patches. Customers will also be able to customize their rugby shirts by choosing patterns and adding patches. In addition to the collection, Ralph Lauren teamed Meanwhile, other sports authorities are gearing up for the tournament. This up with Colette to create a limited edition line of Rugby A women’s Samoa year’s Rugby World Cup marks the fi rst time Puma will sponsor a national team shirts. Fifty pieces in four different styles (two styles for Lakapi jacket from at the event. It designed the uniforms for the Samoan national team as well as a women and two for men) will be sold at Colette and in the Puma. separate line for its rugby supporters. Rugby store in New York during the same period. This summer Puma launched sportswear and fanwear themed around the “The Rugby store environment offers a friendly and fun atmosphere. I am pleased to Samoan rugby team. For winter, Puma introduced a more stylish line dubbed the premiere outside the U.S. And it makes sense to premiere at this new and original re- Samoa Lakapi Line (lakapi is rugby in Samoan) and a rugby-inspired lifestyle shoe tail experience at Colette, which is a lifestyle reference to the world,” added Lauren. called the Tatau. Class-Action Suit Alleges Price Fixing on Crocs By Jessica Steinberg Cinema sells them to retailers for around $24 a pair. “It’s chutzpah to tell someone at what price they JERUSALEM — A class-action suit was filed in the have to sell something,” said Sami Shmuel, the owner Jerusalem District Court against New Cinema Ltd. of Sport Future, a sporting goods store in Talpiot, a and its owner, Amos Horowitz, claiming the importer neighborhood in Jerusalem. of Crocs initiated and organized a cartel that fixed Shmuel has been selling Crocs for two years, since prices on Crocs in all the stores that sell the resin- they were fi rst imported into Israel. But he got fed up based shoes. with the $47 price and stopped A reported 1.2 million pairs buying them from New Cinema. of Crocs were sold last year in It’s chutzpah to tell For the last three months, he Israel, and the most popular “ has been purchasing his limited style is the Beach model, the someone at what price they inventory from another store, hole-ridden clog style that can and charging around $42 for his Some 1.2 million pairs of Crocs were sold last year in Israel. be worn with or without socks. have to sell something. range of Beach model Crocs, a Here, the Beach model crocs. But unlike in the U.S., where ” fact he broadcasts with a large I’m selling Crocs for less,” she said. “We were one of the the average Croc retails for — Sami Shmuel, Sport Future $42 price sign at the top of the fi rst stores in Jerusalem to sell Crocs, and I count on them $30, in Israeli consumers pay Crocs display at the entrance to to bring in business to my store.” $17 more per pair, approximately $47 at current ex- the store. “I’ve defi nitely been selling more because of Horowitz would not comment on the charges of change rates. the price,” Shmuel added. price-fi xing leveled against him. Meanwhile, Israel’s According to the lawsuit, which was fi led in May, Yet not every retailer is ready to cut ties with New Antitrust Authority is talking to retailers and New New Cinema, the only importer of Crocs to Israel, Cinema. At an orthopedic shoe store in downtown Cinema in an attempt to fi gure out the market and the forced stores to sell the shoes at set prices, warning Jerusalem offering a wide range of Crocs styles, includ- uniform pricing, according to an Antitrust spokesman. the retailers that if they lowered the price, the import- ing the Patra slide and Mary Janes, the Beach Crocs dis- “We’re looking into whether this is price-fi xing or if er would halt all supplies. Throughout Israel, Crocs play stand has a sign for $46, but the shoes were being there is another justifi cation for this conduct, such as re- can be found at $47 for the Beach model, $57 for the sold for $47, said the owner, who requested anonymity. tail price management,” he said. “We haven’t determined Highland model and $66 for the Off Road model. New “I can’t take the chance of New Cinema fi nding out that yet what we’re dealing with here.” PHOTO BY DAVID SILVERMAN/GETTY IMAGES SILVERMAN/GETTY DAVID PHOTO BY

production back in the factory contingent upon con- crete implementation” of the compliance agreement Fuentes Line Factory to Comply With Labor Laws and improvements. He said he was also seeking to have Wet Seal and By Kristi Ellis factory, the group claimed, as were products made for the other labels that used the factory in the past sign Maurices/Dress Barn, Filia, Pretty Girl and Rue 21. the agreement. WASHINGTON — A Guatemalan factory producing Among the allegations were forced overtime (work- A spokesman for P.A. Group said the company does blouses for the apparel line of celebrity Daisy Fuentes ers clocking in 60 hours a week), locked exit doors, not currently have any production in the Fribo factory and shirts for Wet Seal under alleged sweatshop condi- fi lthy drinking water and dirty bathrooms. It was but signed the agreement to help rectify the situation. tions has signed an agreement to eliminate the abuses charged the company collected fees from workers for A Kohl’s spokeswoman said in a statement that the and comply with the country’s labor laws. health care, maternity and pension benefi ts, but failed company has pulled the Fuentes apparel in question The National Labor Committee, a labor and human to pay the appropriate government agencies, thus de- from all of its stores nationwide as well as from its own rights watchdog group, said Thursday it had signed an priving the workers of their paid-for benefi ts. e-commerce site, kohls.com. “unprecedented” agreement to improve conditions Charles Kernaghan, executive director of the NLC, “The number of removed items was extremely lim- with the factory, Fribo SA, located in rural Santa Maria called the new agreement a “breakthrough.” ited. We will not sell merchandise that is produced in Cauque, Santiago Sacatepequez, Guatemala, and one “Essentially, Fribo has signed an agreement to bring unauthorized factories,” the spokeswoman said. of the companies producing apparel there, P.A. Group the factory into full compliance with all Guatemalan But she said Kohl’s urged PA Group to work with the LLC, maker of the Fuentes label. The Center for labor laws so everyone will receive proper overtime Fribo factory to bring it into compliance and said it might Studies and Support of Labor Development, a nongov- pay, the bathrooms will be clean, there will be clean be cleared for production if it met the rigid standards of ernmental organization dedicated to helping workers drinking water, workers will be inscribed in the social the agreement and conditions improved signifi cantly. in Guatemala, also signed the agreement and will meet security and pension plan and any harassment will “We encourage PA Group LLC to comply with Kohl’s weekly with Fribo’s management team. cease immediately,” said Kernaghan. “In rural areas in normal procedure for factory authorizations and are The NLC released a report in June claiming that Guatemala where unions have been crushed by repres- confi dent that if the Fribo factory meets Kohl’s re- TV host, model and actress Daisy Fuentes had been sion, this is quite a symbolic step forward in that it lifts quirements regarding working conditions, wages and indirectly using Fribo, through contract work to the the veil of terror where workers up to this point…might benefi ts, working hours, nondiscrimination, compli- P.A. Group, to produce her private label clothing line, lose their jobs because U.S. labels pulled out.” ance with laws and others it would be considered for which is sold exclusively in Kohl’s department stores. Kernaghan said P.A. Group, which does not keep future production,” a Kohl’s spokeswoman said in an Shirts destined for Wet Seal were also found in the production in the factory full-time, has agreed to “put emailed statement. WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 6, 2007 19 WWD.COM

across France and is working on a new movie called “Nina.” She is also designing a collection for British denim giant Lee Cooper. Christian “It was great. I really got to participate on the Lacroix Fashion Scoops creative process,” she said. Continued from page 7 Domingo, Olivier TENT-ATION: Days ahead of a shoot planned OLD IS NEW: Nothing is trash in the world Theyskens, to run in either Vogue U.S or Vogue Living, of Martin Margiela. No idea what to do with Pedro Marni creative director Consuelo Castiglioni last Christmas’ old tinsel? Well, Margiela has Almodóvar, woke up to a nasty surprise. The hand-woven the imagination to turn it into a “fur” coat. Giambattista Berber tent she had bought in Kuwait (it was Old rings? When Valli and key to the shoot) was stolen from her property attached they Delphine and in Formentera, the hip Spanish island. make up a dress. Bernard Arnault. Luckily, though, she managed to round up And vintage fur “It’s like we a replacement tent. A Marni spokeswoman can be cut up never stopped declined to comment. and incorporated working as patchwork in together,” said AMERICAN ROOKIE: TV host Ryan Seacrest

a pullover. Those Schiffer of her was in foreign territory at Elie Saab’s couture DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY were among the reunion with show Wednesday. Although he has been to couture house. “Before it melts!” he said, quirkiest of the Lagerfeld. Paris several times — this trip was made for fl ashing a big smile and wrapping his arm

six looks the While the STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY a friend’s wedding — it was Seacrest’s fi rst around his wife, Françoise. Belgian designer, designer Lily Cole and Angela fashion show. “I’m a fashion show virgin,” American retail executives showed up whose house is and the Lindvall in Chanel couture. joked the reality-TV personality. “Now I in force, along with a smattering of artists now owned by supermodel, am seeing fi rsthand what the celebrities and couture-clad socials, including Daphne Diesel’s Renzo who wore a I interview are wearing to the Oscars. So, Guinness. Rosso, showed Dior gown, circled the event, Ralph Fiennes basically, this is red-carpet research.” PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY in a presentation went incognito with Daphne Guinness, and Seacrest also whispered word of a new HEELING POWERS: Charlotte Casiraghi, Tatiana Martin Margiela’s tinsel of his so-called shooed away journalists and photographers. project he’s working on that will hit TV Santo Domingo, Eugenie Niarchos, Diana ‘fur’ jacket. “artisanal” line. “I’m going back to L.A. to take care of my screens this winter, although he wouldn’t say Widmaier-Picasso and Emma de Caunes were two-year-old son, Orson,” said Vega. Fellow whether or not he’ll be its host. among the well-heeled guests who descended HOUSE WARMING: When Karl Lagerfeld throws mom-about-town Lindvall, clad in Chanel on the Ritz Club in London Tuesday night a house party, the guest list is as grand as couture, also said she’s heading back to ICE, ICE BABY: Arriving fashionably late to his to fete Giuseppe Zanotti’s Avenue Montaigne his 18th-century town house and gardens. the States to join her two boys. The model- 20th anniversary bash Tuesday night in Paris, boutique. De Caunes said she’s about to step To fete the launch of Dom Pérignon’s actress is currently working on an angelic part Christian Lacroix cruised through the packed into the director’s chair for her own movie, Oenothèque and the advertising campaign in an upcoming fi lm dubbed “Pearblossom.” crowd and made a beeline for the bar. Not to be named “Papa Was a Rolling Stone.” featuring Claudia Schiffer, lensed by the “I’m a real messenger of God,” joked that he needed a stiff drink. Rather, with the Zanotti, meanwhile, disclosed ambitions to designer, Lagerfeld welcomed the likes of Lindvall, who is also the face of a new late-day sun pouring through the windows open a concept store in the Marais, stocking Jude Law, Paz Vega, Marc Newson, Vanessa Lacoste fragrance. Lou Doillon, who chatted at Georges atop the Pompidou museum, he old records, antiques and, of course, his Seward, Angela Lindvall, Steve and Christine with famed French comedian Michel Blanc, needed to pose for photos next to a giant glitzy shoes. “I also have plans to open a Schwartzman, Lars Nilsson, Tatiana Santo has been taking to the stages of theaters ice sculpture proclaiming the birthday of his hotel in Paris,” he said.

WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

Elizabeth Arden Red Door Spas Stamford, CT Opportunity is a beautiful thing PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Director, Products & Services CLOSE OUTS We’re seeking an individual with high energy, strong management and Showroom Manager We Buy Men’s, PRODUCTIONS A design wholesale co. specializing analytical skills to direct our product & service assortment strategies and WEST COAST SALES Women’s & Children’s All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. in licensed product seeks an: Exciting new Women’s Higher-end Con- Call Sherry 212-719-0622. initiatives. Leadership is essential to build strong alliances with Marketing, temporary Collection based in LA, seeks All Quantities A/P MANAGER Supply Chain and Operations teams. BS in Marketing or related field with an exp’d & entrepreneurial Showroom WE HAVE INSTANT MONEY 5+ years in beauty, hospitality or retail industry a plus. Manager to help launch a new line for We are nice people to deal with PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Responsibilities include: Monitor this Resort season and manage Sales for Also HBA and General Merchandise. distribution of AP work flow, assist in Planner, Products & Services the West Coast. Must have well- PRODUCTIONS the month end close process, per- established contacts, exp w/ running a Call Rocky 800-762-5488 We’re seeking an individual with strong analytics and financial acumen to showroom and tradeshows and knowl- Full service shop to the trade. form vendor analysis, work closely edge of maintaining a consistent brand Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. with finance to determine weekly effectively monitor performance trends and prepare forecasts. BS degree image. Tremendous growth potential. cash allowance and manage weekly with a focus on merchandise, supply chain, business, accounting or Excellent salary and commissions. Must check runs accordingly, code and finance. 5+ years of category planning experience is required. start ASAP. Email/fax resumes to: post invoices, maintain organized [email protected] and complete AP files, set up bank Job codes: DPS or PPS. Send resumes to [email protected] or 213-228-5824 wires, account analysis as requested and manage special projects. Ideal candidates will have 2 year degree in accounting or equivalent work experience, 5+ years as an AP PRODUCTION ASST. FOR SALE manager, experience in a high vol- Leading children’s apparel company ume import environment, ability seeks a highly motivated and detail- Key West Hand Print oriented individual to oversee all Vice President of Sales Key West Hand Prints Fabric and to multi task, excellent organiza- aspects of production to ensure Mfr. with NY showroom seeks a dynamic Fashion, Est. 1962, internationally re- tional and communication skills, DESIGNER on-time delivery thru daily communi- & result driven Vice President of Sales nowned for its outstanding tropical proactive attitude and ability to work Home Textiles Designer wanted for cation between design/sales and specializing in Children’s Wear; or Under- prints, is seeking a BUYER for its under pressure. Must have superi- small friendly office. Must have good overseas vendors. Responsibilities wear, or Sportswear. Qualified candidate Wholesale/Retail Company that includes or computer skills, particularly Excel. color sense/design eye and knowledge include: follow-up with overseas facto- must have existing relationships with Showrooms & Lofts over 200 accounts, the brand name of Excel, Illustrator & Photoshop. Chain Stores, and possess excellent com- BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS ries, delivery tracking & spreadsheets. "Key West", an established internet PLEASE SEND RESUMES TO: Home textile experience a plus. Please Strong communication skills req’d. munication & follow-up skills. Please Great ’New’ Office Space Avail store, ownership of the "Key West" email resume to : [email protected] submit resume & expected salary to: ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 [email protected] Must have good working knowledge of Trademark, and over 2000 copyrighted Microsoft Outlook, Word & Excel. [email protected] original print designs. E-mail resume with salary Contact Ed Swift at (305) 294-4142 requirements Attn Charles to: [email protected] nordstrom www.lambfragrance.com