SUNDAY, JUNE 27, 2021 INTERNET EDITION : www.dailyexcelsior.com/sunday-magazine Historical Town of Ramnagar

Ashok Sharma

Ramnagar is a historical town located at a distance of about 38 Kms to the west of Udhampur. It is named after its last ruler, King Ram Singh who was ousted by the Sikh forces in 1822 AD. It is a beautiful town divided into thirteen wards and has got the status of a sub division functioning under the administrative control of Sub A top view of Ramnagar Fort. Divisional Magistrate. It has also a municipal Committee to look after the civic affairs of the town and a Degree College located at a scenic and serene place on the outskirts other in opposite wings.The outer walls are high and are supported by buttresses. felt and a site was selected which was a ridge situated at a distance of about 800 mts of the town, spread over an area of about 300 Kanals of land. The Campus of the The rooms have wooden ceilings and the interior walls are decorated with floral from the old palace.It is square in structure 42.65 x 42.65 mts in measurement. It University of Jammu is also functioning here. Ramnagar was earlier ruled by the designs. boasts of a masonary work of huge cut stones mortared with lime powder and the Bandral and it was the capital of the erstwhile state of Bandralta. It was Shesh Mahal was built during the reign of Raja Ram Singh in 1885.It is a royal paste of legumes.There are four corners of the fort which make the four turrets con- founded by the royal family of Chamba belonging to Chambyal Dynasty. The first mansion consisting of two forecourts having burjis at the corners. Behind these are structed on solid foundation. Perfect in structure, the fort has walls which are as king of this state was Bahattar Dev Verman,brother of Vichitar Verman of Chamba halls and rooms flanked on either side of the central passage. Sheesh Mahal is a long as 200 ft and constitute the outer parapet of the fort. There is a main gate who ruled Chamba in the 10th century AD. The vansavali or lineage of the kings of peculiar building constructed on the pattern of old Havelis with a wide decorated opening towards to the eastern side of the moat which is 40 ft in height and 20 ft in this dynasty contains only 21 names.This dynasty ruled over Bandralta till 1822 when entrance flanked by lavish chambers profusely decorated with wall paintings. On the width. The entrance to the gate is covered by two heavy wooden gates 20 ft long and Maharaja Ranjit Singh conquered it, overthrowing the much loved ruler, Raja Dev in right side of the entrance, there are three halls popularly known as Darbar Hall, 5 ft wide. On both sides of the gate, there are images of god and Durga 1822.It was then granted as fief to Raja Suchet Singh,who was a great general and the Sheesh Mahal and Rang Mahal. Darbar Hall is a big chamber having size of 46 feet and to the left side of Durga, there is an image of Bhairava. There are two wells, one younger brother of Maharaja Gulab Singh. He ruled Bandralta from 1822 till his by 18 feet the walls of which are decorated with frescos. These wall paintings are just on one side of the door and the other at the back of the courtyard. Entrance to death in 1844 AD. After the death of Raja Suchet Singh in 1844 A.D in Lahore, his done in the pahari style of Bandralta and great epics, Mahabharata and , the Fort is through a large Deodi with measurement of 10.5 m x 4.4m supported by Ranis became Sati and Ram Singh, the second son of Maharaja Ranbir Singh became the subject exhibited with acumen and skill. Some wall paintings carry the portrait fluted pillars. On the right lateral side of the Deodi, there is a wide chamber perhaps of Raja Suchet Singh with his courtiers and a few portray the battle scenes with the the feudal lord of Bandralta and renamed it Ramnagar. After the death of Raja Ram meant for the security officer. The interior of the fort is well maintained with lush king in the centre of the episode.This Hall must have been used as the royal court. Singh,this jagir was merged in Jammu Kingdom as both Raja Suchet Singh and Raja green lawns and close to the Fort, there is an ammunition chamber wherein can- The second big chamber is smaller in size but profusely decorated in several panels Ram Singh had no progeny. non-balls of solid iron are well preserved. The fort is joined with the green land with richly adorned with the panels of runners, creepers,, trailers the help of wooden bridge bridging the gap of the moat, 15ft wide & 15ft deep. The and flowery borders covering the frames of hunting scenes, Fort was declared a protected monument by the Archaeological Survey of in working court scenes and portraits of kings and courtiers, as 1972 for its upkeep and maintenance. also hunting scenes. Unique feature of this part of the place is When the Queen of King Suchet Singh heard the news of the king's death in the beautiful portrait of Nayikas adorned with the transparent 1844,she performed the rites of Sati at the place where the Samadhi is now located. petticoats. Nayika is well covered with upper garments orna- This samadhi is constructed in the mausoleum style with a door having pinnacles mented with necklaces, earrings, nose rings, and hair with four metallic pitchers tapering upto the apex. clips.Some paintings include battle scenes with thousands of Ramnagar is also famous for many temples as religion has deep roots here. cavaliers, elephants, armoured soldiers marching to the bat- Narsingh Temple located in the town is most famous of all the temples since the tlefields.They are equipped with weapons followed by guns on ancient times. A large number of people from Udhampur, Jammu and adjoining wheels. This part of the palace is known as Rang Mahal and it places, besides the local people, visit this temple and organise Havna and langars. must have been in use for entertainment, music and dance for There is famous Akshardham Cave on the outskirts of the town and 'Aapshambhu' the royalty. Moreover, the walls of Rang Mahal are decorated temple at Dalsar visited by a large number of devotees. The Shiv Mandir located at with a series of love frolics of Lord Krishna with Gopies.There the Bus stop is another temple most visited by the devotees. Chountra Mata shrine, is also a painting of the marriage scene of Raja Suchet Singh in Pingla Mata Shrine, Sheetla Mandir and temples at Badhole and Tarmian are other which the rites and rituals of the marriage ceremony of Dogra religious spots in the vicinity of Ramnagar, which are quite famous and attract a huge Society are highlighted. The third chamber adjoining to the footfall of devotees. There are tourist spots of Gandhtop, Dudu-Kirchi, Basantgarh, Rang Mahal is that of Sheesh Mahal the walls of which, as the Shiv Gali, Seoz , Dalsar Lake, RC, Peak, Bharnara etc which are endowed with name suggests, are decorated with cut glasses intermittently unparallelled natural beauty and attract a large number of tourists every year. A view of Shesh Mahal in Ramnagar woven with fine paintings. The subject matter of these paint- Not only this, Ramnagar is also famous for milk products and eatables. The vari- ings is the same as that of Rang Mahal but in the corners, some ety of Cheese and Kalari from Ramnagar is much in demand throughout the Ramnagar is famous for its rich culture and priceless heritage. The Royal Palaces paintings of English ladies have taken place of the paintings done by masters of Jammu Division. The sevian made from 'Besan' and called 'Boor' in the local parl- were constructed by the Bandral lords but they were renovated and reconstructed Bandralta School. ance and golgappes (Pani Puri), Burfi etc are also liked by the locals and the by Raja Suchet Singh who used to reside there. He also built a fort and the Purana The Baradari or pavillion of Raja Ram Singh has six doors to allow the free flow tourists. Ramnagar is also known for producing best quality Rajmash (Kidney Mahal which consists of a complex of rooms rising to three storeys having high of air rather than 12 doors. The structure has 3 doorways on one side of the square beans), Kachalu, Khoya etc. In the upper reaches, coats and pyjamas (called ghut- walls with watch towers at regular intervals. The walls of the rooms are decorated shaped structure in spite of every side. It was built by Maharaja Ranbir Singh in tanna) made from the wool of local sheep, locally woven and stitched reflect true with stucco work and painted with floral designs.The wooden parts of the ceiling are 1844.The pavillion consists of two storeys and the central area where Raja Ram Dogra culture. Folksongs and folklores namely Geetrus, Bhaakh, Goaalu songs, profusely decorated and the corners of the roofs have projections in the forms of Singh held court has a mirrored ceiling. Massade, Kud etc, are quite popular in Ramnagar and bear ample testimony to rich lotus flowers. Nama Mahal or the New Palace was built by Raja Ram Singh. The The Old palace of Ramnagar was fortified and secure area;So no need of sepa- Dogra culture and heritage thriving here. Complex has open courtyards surrounded by rooms with two entrances facing each rate fort was felt. But with the change in circumstances, the need to build a fort was (The writer is serving as Sr. Lecturer (English) in Govt. Hr. Sec. School, Thial (Udhampur).

climatic conditions, fertile soil, sub-tropical, harvesting is carried out by hand. But during semi-temperate, temperate and arid climatic the last few years the production the saffron conditions in J&K offer an immense scope for cultivation is under threat due to uncertain cli- cultivation and production of different crops. matic conditions and the insufficient irrigation Among the major horticultural products saffron facilities in Kishtwar district. There is need to is one of the most important exporting crops and enhance the area, production and the produc- SAFFRON Cultivation plays an important role in income and employ- tivity of this important spice in the district as it ment generation for the rural people of temper- is an excellent source of earning for the farmers. ate regions of J&K. The main cultivation areas of Quality research and irrigation facilities are saffron are Kharewa, Chandhora, Kishtwar and needed in the saffron cultivation in the district. Pampore in J&K. District Pulwama, is common- There is also need to evaluate the possibility of in Kishtwar ly known as saffron bowl of Kashmir. It is dom- 'organic farming' of saffron in the district for inant in saffron production followed by improving farmers' income opportunities. Budgam, Srinagar and Kishtwar districts. A Saffron has many uses in industries such as hundred kg of fresh saffron flowers yield about food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and perfumery as three Kg of dehydrated stigmas. Pure saffron well as in the textile dyes. It is very effective in the consists of only the orange-red stigmas of the treatment of various diseases. Saffron stigma has saffron plant. It is estimated that about 49 per antioxidant activity and thus it prevents the degen- cent of saffron produce is exported from J&K eration of cells by free radicals. The components of state. Saffron cultivation in J&K has its histori- saffron, crocin and safranal shows role in the sup- cal roots from Iran where world's largest pression of inflammatory pain responses, decreas- amount (about70 per cent) of saffron is pro- es the number of neutrophils and also possesses duced. strong activity against various bacteria and fungi. Kishtwar district of J&K is situated at an alti- It has a protective effect against nephrotoxicity tude of 5351 ft. from the MSL with a temperate and is cardio-protective. It reduces the fasting climate. The soils of Kishtwar district are appro- blood glucose levels and also exhibits an anti- priate for the saffron cultivation on the basis of tumour effect through inactivation or activation of soil texture, soil structure, soil profile, PH value different molecular cascades. It is also used in the and chemical characteristics. Kishtwar is a manufacture of perfume. It is considered as the unique land of saffron. It is well known for qual- panacea for the various diseases of males and ity saffron production. The district is blessed females. with lofty mountains and sloppy hills around There is need to constitute special policies to which bestow upon its grandeur and fascinating strengthen the saffron cultivation in Kishtwar dis- look for the onlookers.In Jammu province, trict so that the income and employment among Kishtwar is the only Saffron producing district. the farmers can be enhanced. Special incentives Kishtwar saffron is very famous due to its fine should be provided to the saffron growers in the flavour, colour and medicinal value. It is a very district. Farmers of Kishtwar district have positive popular crop in the region and is considered as attitude towards saffron crop cultivation. Keeping the costliest crop for the farmers of the area. It in view the importance of saffron industry in is low volume cash crop. The saffron is one of Kishtwar, saffron growers need more financial sup- the oldest commodities of Kishtwar district. The port and expertise to protect the future of the saf- main marketing channels are brokers/local fron cultivation in the district and they need more traders/cooperative societies etc. technical guidelines. There is need of quality plant- Dr Banarsi Lal, Dr AS Charak average size of land holding of the J&K is only Union Territory of J&K but saffron flowers have Villages namely Thakraie, Kuchhal, ing material, co-operative societies and proper 0.62 hectare against 1.15 hectares' land holding their own utility and importance. In the Indian Kuchhan, Bunjwah, Inderwal/Chatru, Palmar, trainings for its post-harvest management. There is Jammu and Kashmir is a mountainous size on national basis. About 30 per cent of the agriculture, saffron cultivation is also known as Trigam, Poochal, Dool, Padyarna, Na-gseni, need to build strong linkage between the farmers, Union Territory in which Jammu region is pre- area of J&K is under cultivation. J&K is rich in the 'Golden Zest'. Saffron is one of the most dominantly sub-tropical while Kashmir region is Paddar (Ligri &Tata Pani) and some villages of extension workers and scientists to increase the agro-biodiversity. The average annual rainfall of important spices in J&K. Union Territory of J&K Drabshala and Dachhan blocks are known for production and productivity of saffron in Kishtwar temperate. Agriculture plays the pivotal role in these two regions is 1069mm and 660mm the economy of this beautiful Union Territory has monopoly in the saffron cultivation in India. commercial cultivation of saffron in Kishtwar district. There is ample scope for maximizing prof- respectively. In India, 5,707 hectares of land comes under saf- district. About 202 hectares of land in Kishtwar itability of this crop for Kishtwar saffron growers, and most of the people of J&K are associated Saffron (Crocus sativus) is considered as the with it. Agricultural sector is very vast and it pro- fron cultivation and out of it 4,496 hectares of district is occupied by the saffron. About 5-6 provided that sincere efforts are made. Initiatives highest priced spice in the world. Saffron is a vides employment directly or indirectly to land is cultivated in J&K. After fruits production quintals of saffron is produced annually from are needed by adopting strict quality control meas- slender, dried, reddish brown, flattened stigma around 70 per cent of J&K population. saffron cultivation is the second largest activity these areas. It takes about 4, 50,000 stigmas or ures, mechanizing production and introducing of cultivated saffron plant. It has various names Agriculture contributes about the significant in J&K. J&K has monopoly in the saffron culti- 1, 50,000 flowers to produce 1Kg of saffron marketing interventions. Adoption of novel scien- amount of J&K revenue which signifies the such as Kesar, Zafran, Kang Posh etc. Saffron vation in India. About 7.3 per cent of world saf- spice. The flowering stage of saffron starts from tific technologies, including biotechnology can go a overdependence of J&K on agriculture. The flowers are the symbol of freshness and purity. fron is produced from J&K. India is at third rank Oct. /Nov. and continues for three weeks. Each long way to reduce the costs of saffron production There are various types of flowers grown in the in saffron production in the world. The diverse flower lives for about 48 hours. Traditionally in the area.