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Home , Aframomum, Aframomum corrorima, Aframomum melegueta, Ajwain, Allspice, Alpinia officinarum

c u l i n a r y rBS & He S of the world

Ben-erik van Wyk For centuries and have been an integral traditions, traditional and spice mixtures, pres- part of many of the world’s great . But spices ervation, presentation, and the chemistry of , have a history of doing much more than adding life and individual entries include the chemical com- to bland . They have been the inspiration for, pounds and structures responsible for each spice or among other things, trade, exploration, and poetry. herb’s characteristic . Many of and Priests employed them in worship, incantations, spices van Wyk covers are familiar fixtures in our and rituals, and shamans used them as charms to own spice racks, but a few—especially those from ward off evil spirits. Nations fought over access to Africa and —will be introduced for the first and monopoly of certain spices, like and time to American audiences. Van Wyk also offers a , when they were rare commodities. Not global view of the most famous use or signature dish only were many men’s fortunes made in the pursuit for each herb or spice, satisfying the gourmand’s cu- of spices, spices at many periods throughout history riosity for more information about new dishes from literally served as currency. little-known culinary traditions. In Culinary Herbs and Spices of the World, Ben- People all over the world are becoming more so- Erik van Wyk offers the first fully illustrated, scien- phisticated and demanding about what they eat and tific guide to nearly all commercial herbs and spices how it is prepared. Culinary Herbs and Spices of the in existence. Van Wyk covers more than 150 spe- World will appeal to those inquisitive foodies in ad- cies—from and blackcurrant to white dition to gardeners, botanists, and academics. and white —detailing the propaga- Ben-Erik van Wyk is professor of at the Univer- tion, cultivation, and culinary uses of each. Intro- sity of Johannesburg and the author of several best- ductory chapters capture the essence of culinary selling books on and use.

61/2 x 91/2 · 320 pages For a review copy or other publicity To place orders in North and South inquiries, please contact: 600 color plates America, please contact your local Micah Fehrenbacher Cloth: $45.00 University of Chicago Press Promotions Manager sales representative or contact ISBN-13: 978-0-226-09166-2 The University of Chicago Press 1427 East 60th Street The University of Chicago Press by E-book ISBN-13: Chicago, IL 60637 978-0-226-09183-9 phone at 1-800-621-2736 or Phone: 773-702-7717 by fax at 1-800-621-8476. Publication date: October 2013 Fax: 773-702-9756 Other rights are restricted. Copublished with the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, and E-mail: [email protected] Briza Publications Contents

Preface 6

Introduction and history 7

Regions of origin (culinary traditions) 8‐11

Cultivation, harvesting and processing 12‐13

Salad herbs (listed by common name) 14‐15

Culinary herbs and herb mixtures (listed b y common name) 16‐17

Spices and spice mixtures (listed by common name) 18‐19

Other sources of flavour and colour 22‐23

Sauces, dips, pastes and preservatives

Extracts and essences

Vinegars, dressings, wine and beverages

Food colourings (natural dyes) and garnishes

The chemistry of flavours and fragrances 24‐27

The herbs and spices (in alphabetical order by plant name) 28‐267

QikQuick guide to culi nary hhberbs and spi ces 268‐289

Further reading 290

Acknowledgements and photo credits 294

Index 295‐304

5 Selection of for Culinary Herbs and Spices 120 spreads covering more than 150 species

1. corrorima (korarima, Ethiopian ) 37. (seakale) 2. (melegueta pepper) 38. Crocus sativus () Xylopia aethiopica (Guinea pepper) 39. Cuminum cyminum () 3. Agathosma betulina (buchu) Bunium persicum (black cumin) 4. fistulosum (Welsh , Japanese bunching onion) 40. longa (, curcuma) Allium ameloprasum () ( ginger) Allium cepa (onion, bulb onion, ) (=C. zerumbet) (zedoary) 5. Allium sativum () 41. citratus (lemongrass) (bear’s garlic, wood garlic, ramsons) 42. cardamomum (d(cardamom ) 6. Allium schoenoprasum () 43. foetidum (eryngo) 7. (garlic chives, Chinese chives) 44. Eruca sativa (rocket) 8. Aloysia triphylla ( ) Diplotaxis tenuifolia (wild rocket) 9. galanga (greater , galangal) 45. assafoetida () (lesser galangal, gao‐liang‐jiang) 46. Foeniculum vulgare () galanga (kencur, san‐nai) 47. Glycine max (soybean, soy; shoyo, , tofu) 10. Anethum graveolens () 48. Glycyrrhiza glabra (, licorice) 11. archangelica (angelica) 49. Hibiscus sabdariffa (hibiscus, , ) Angelica sinensis (h(Chinese angelica; dang‐gui) 50. Humulus lllupulus (hop, h)hops) 12. Anthriscus cerefolium () 51. (hyssop) 13. Apium graveolens () 52. verum (star ) 14. rusticana () 53. Juglans regia (walnut, common walnut) 15. dracunculus () Aleurites moluccana (candlenut) (southernwood) 54. Juniperus communis ( ) (wormwood, absinth) 55. Lactuca sativa (lettuce) Artemisia vulgaris () Montia perfoliata (miner’s lettuce, spring beauty) 16. Bixa orellana (annato) Atriplex hortensis (orache) 17. BbiBoesenbergia rotunda (Chinese keys, suo shi) VlValer iane lla locusta (corn saldlad, lb’lamb’s ll)ettuce) 18. Borago officinalis () Centranthus ruber (red ) 19. nigra (black mustard) 56. (bay , true laurel) (brown mustard, Indian or ) polyanthum (salam leaf, duan salam) 20. (marigold) albidum (sassafras) 21. Camellia sinensis () 57. Lavandula officinalis (lavender) Chamaemelum nobile (, Roman chamomile) 58. sativum (, cress) Matricaria recutita (German chamomile) vulgaris (winter cress, yellow rocket) 22. Capparis spinosa (capers) Barbarea verna (land cress, American winter cress) CiCanarium piilmela (blac k Chinese canarium, wu ian) ChliCochleariaoffic ina lis ()( grass) 23. frutescens (chilli pepper, ) 59. Levisticum officinale () ( pepper, sweet pepper) 60. Lippia adoensis (koseret) 24. Carthamus tinctorius (safflower) 61. Mangifera indica (mango, aamchur, aamchoor) 25. Carum carvi () Prunus avium (sweet cherry; mahlab, mahaleb, malepi) 26. Chrysanthemum ×morifolium (chrysanthemum, ju hua) Prunus mahaleb (mahlab) Chrysanthemum vulgare (tansy) Lycopersicon esculentum (tomato) Chrysanthemum balsamita (alecost) Garcinia atroviridis (Asam gelugor) 27. Cinnamomum aromaticum (cassia, Chinese cinnamon) 62. Melissa officinalis (, balm, common balm) 28. Cinnamomum verum (i(cinnamon, ClCeylon ci)innamon) MdMonarda didyma (bergamo t, blbalm ) 29. aurantiifolia (West Indian lime, lime leaf) 63. ×piperita () 30. Citrus hystrix (makrut lime, ) Mentha ×piperita ‘Citrata’ (eau de cologne ) 31. Citrus limon (lemon) (Japanese mint) 32. Citrus reticulata (mandarin peel, tangerine, nartjie) 64. (pennyroyal) Citrus aurantium (bitter orange) (Corsican mint) Citrus sinensis (orange, sweet orange) 65. Mentha spicata (mint, ) 33. Cocos nucifera () Mentha ×rotundifolia (apple mint) 34. Coffea arabica () (water mint) 35. CiCoriand rum sativum (id(, cilan tro ) MthMentha suaveolens ‘ViVariega ta’ ((ipineapp le miit)nt) 36. Corylus avellana (hazelnut) ( mint)

204 Selection of species for Culinary Herbs and Spices 120 spreads covering more than 150 species

66. Murraya koenigii ( leaf) 95. Rosa rugosa (Japanese rose) 67. fragrans (nutmeg and ) Rosa ×damascena; Rosaceae; damask rose, Persian rose 68. Myrrhis odorata (sweet ) Rosa ×centifolia (rose water) 69. Myrtus communis (myrtle) 96. Rosmarinus officinalis () 70. Nelumbo nucifera (lotus) 97. acetosa (sorrel, common sorrel, garden sorrel) 71. (black cumin, black , kalonji) var. sanguineus (red‐veined dock) 72. basilicum () Rumex scutatus (French sorrel, buckles‐leaved sorrel) Ocimum americanum (=O. canum) (hoary basil) 98. graveolens (rue, herb of grace) Ocimum tenuifolium (=O. sanctum) (holy basil, tulsi) 99. Salvia officina lis ()(sage) 73. Origanum majorana () Salvia elegans (=S. rutilans) (pineapple sage) Origanum onites (pot marjoram) Salvia sclarea (clary sage) 74. Origanum vulgare (origanum) 100. Sambucus nigra (elder, black elder) 75. amaryllifolius (pandan, fragrant pandan) 101. Sanguisorba minor ( burnet, garden burnet) 76. (poppy ) 102. hortensis (savory, summer savoury) 77. frutescens (Japanese perilla, common perilla) Satureja montana (winter savoury) 78. odorata (, Vietnamese mint) 103. (pink pepper) Gnetum gnemon (melinjo) 104. Sesamum indicum () 79. Petroselinum crispum (l)() 105. Sinapi salba (hi() 80. dioica () 106. olusatrum (alexanders, black lovage) Pimenta racemosa (bay rum) sisarum (skirret) 81. Pimpinella anisum (anise) 107. Spilanthes acmella (spilanthes, pará cress) 82. Pinus pinea (pine ) 108. rebaudiana (stevia, ‐leaf) Pinus cembra (Siberian pine) 109. Syzygium aromaticum () Pinus edulis (piñon) 110. Tamarindus indica () 83. nigrum (black pepper, pepper) Ceratonia siliqua (carob) Piper longum () 111. Taraxacum officinale (dandelion) 84. Pistaci a lilentiscus (i(, mastihicha, mikiistki) 112. Theo broma cacao ()(cacao) Pistacia vera (pistachio) 113. Thymus vulgaris () 85. Plectranthus amboinicus (Indian borage) Thymus ×citriodora 86. Portulaca oleracea (var. sativa) (purslane) Thymus serpyllum (wild thyme) 87. Prunus dulcis (=P. amygdalis) (almond) 114. ammi (ajowan, , carom, omam) 88. Punica granatum (, anardana) 115. Trigonella foenum‐graecum () 89. Raphanus sativus () 116. Tropaeolum majus () 90. Rhamnus prinoides (geisho) 117. planifolia (vanilla) 91. Rheum rhabarbarum (rubarb) Mondia whitei (white ginger) 92. Rhus coriiiaria (sumach) 118. WbiWasabia jijaponica (bi(, Japanese hdih)horseradish) 93. Ribes nigrum (blackcurrent) 119. piperitum (Chinese or Szechuan pepper) Ribes species 120. officinale (ginger) 94. Rorippa nasturtium‐aquaticum () (torch ginger)

Salvia officinalis Borago officinalis Rosmarinus officinalis

205 korarima ● Ethiopian cardamom

Aframomum corrorima (A. Br.) Jansen (); korarima (Amharic); korarima, cardamome d'Ethiopie, poivre d' Ethiopie (French)

DESCRIPTION Ethiopian cardamom or korarima is are required4. Flowering and fruiting occur al‐ the ripe or near‐ripe seeds of the korarima most throughout the year. plant, usually sold enclosed in the dried . HARVESTING The turn bright red when they These are shiny brown and 3 to 5 mm in are ripe and ready for harvesting and drying. diameter. They have a distinctive sweet smell CULINARY USES Korarima is an important ingre‐ (when crushed) and a delicious mild spicy dient of , awaze, and other very similar to cardamom. Ethiopian spice mixtures4,5. It is traditionally THE PLANT A slender, leafy perennial of up to 2 used to flavour coffee4,5. Korarima can be used m tall, with thin fleshy stems and broad, oblong inthesamewayascardamom(orincombi‐ on a pseudo‐stem arising from a creeping nation with cardamom to increase the com‐ rhizome1‐3. Attractive pink are borne plexity of the flavour). near the ground and are followed by bright red, FLAVOUR COMPOUNDS The contains fleshy fruits containing numerous seeds. terpinyl acetate, 1,8‐cineole and nerolidol as ORIGIN The use of korarima is well known only the main chemical compounds but several from and , where it is a very others are also present, including sabinene, important spice and an essential component of neryl acetate, , β‐pinene, α‐terpineol the traditional cuisine4. The plant is thought to and terpen‐4‐ol6‐8. be endemic to Ethiopia (and perhaps ) NOTES The seeds are used in Ethiopian tradi‐ but itmayalso present innorthern Kenya, tilional medic ine as tonics and carmiiinatives4,5. western Uganda and Tanzania1‐3.Thespiceis exported to a limited extent, especially to Sudan, , and . CULTIVATION Plantations of korarima are con‐ fined to Ethiopia (especially rain forests in the highlands of the southwest) and Eritrea. The spice is also wild‐harvested to some extent. Plants can be grown from seeds but a much quicker option is to divide the rhizomes4.High humidity, mild temperatures and some shading

1. Lock, J.M. 1976. Notes of some East African species of Aframomum (Zingiberaceae). Kew Bulletin 31: 263–271. 2. Lock, J.M. 1997. Zingiberaceae. In: Edwards, S., Demissew, S, Hedberg, I. (eds). Flora of Ethiopia and Eritrea, Vol. 6, pp. 324–329. National Herbarium, Addis Ababa and University of Uppsala, Uppsala. 3. Poulsen, A.D., Lock, J.M. 1997. New species and new records of Zingiberaceae and Costaceae from tropical East Africa. Kew Bulletin 52: 601–616. 4. Jansen, P.C.M. 1981. Spices, and in Ethiopia, their and agricultural signifi‐ cance. Agricultural Research Reports 906. Centre for Agricultural Publishing and Documentation, Wageningen. 5. Demissew, S. 1993. A description of some essential oil bearing plants in Ethiopia and their indigenous uses. Journal of Essential Oil Research 5: 465–479. 6. Biftu, T. 1981. Essential oil composition of Aframomum korarima (seeds). Journal of Chromatography 211: 280–283. 7. Abegaz, B., Asfaw, N., Lwande, W. 1994. Chemical constituents of the essential oil of Aframomum corrorima from Ethiopia. Sinet: Ethiopian Journal of Science 17: 145–148. 8. Başer, K.H.C., Kürkçüoglu, M. 2001. The essential oils of Aframomum corrorima (Braun) Jansen and A. angustifolium K.Schum. from Africa. Journal of Essential Oil Research 13: 208–209.

28 Fruits and seeds of Ethiopian cardamom or korarima (Aframomum corrorima)

3 mm Ethiopian cardamon: ripe or near‐ripe seeds of A. corrorima

Flowering plant (A. corrorima)LeavesFlowers (A. corrorima) (A. corrorima) Ocimum basilicum basil ● sweet basil

Ocimum basilicum L. (); luo le, yu xiang cai (Chinese); basilic (French); Basilikum (German); babui tulsi (); basilico (Italian); bajiru (Japanese); kemangi, selaseh (Malay); alfavaca (Portuguese); albahaca (Spanish); horapha (Thai)

DESCRIPTION Sweet basil leaves are highly goes well with tomato salad or any tomato dish. aromatic, usually with a rich, spicy aroma but Especially famous is the Italian ,asauce sometimes with lemon, rose, , cinna‐ originating in Genoa made from fresh basil mon, woody or fruity aromas1. pounded with garlic, parmesan and . A THE PLANT A robust, leafy annual (up to 0.7 m) similar () is made in . with soft‐textured, hairless leaves and small is popular in Vietnamese and Thai white flowers. The numerous hybrids, poly‐ and is added to , and stir‐ ploids and often differ only in their fries. In Indian cooking, holy basil is mostly volatile compounds1‐5. Holy basil or tulsi (O. added to fish, poultry and meat dishes and is tenuiflorum,previouslyO. sanctum)6,isashort‐ always cooked to release the flavour. lived perennial from Indian and with FLAVOUR COMPOUNDS The traditional sweet basil hairy stems and leaves. Thai basil is a form with aroma is due to , methylchavicol and/or brightly coloured bracts. Hoary basil is O. 1,8‐cineole1‐5. The is ascribed to americanum (previously O. canum)6,aperennial methylchavicol (=estragole), a phenylpropanoid African species with hairy stems and calyces. considered safe only when used in small ORIGIN Tropical Asia6. Cultivated since ancient amounts7. The aroma of some cultivars is due times in India, the Near East, and (clove‐like) or (lemon‐scented)1. later in . NOTES Basil is a traditional tonic, antiseptic, CULTIVATION BilBasil iseasilygrownfrom seeds but antidiispasmodic, diuret icand digest ive medic ine8. warm conditions are required. Plant out in rich, well‐drained at a spacing of 0.3 m (1 ft). HARVESTING Fresh leaves are harvested regularly to encourage new growth. Drying may result in a loss of flavour – preservation in olive oil is a better option. CULINARY USES Chopped leaves are added to sa‐ lads, , , , stuffings, meat dishes and pastas. The flavour of sweet basil

1. Simon, J.E., Morales, M.R., Phippen, W.B., Vieira, R.F., Hao, Z. 1999. Basil: a source of aroma compounds and a pppopular culinary and ornamental herb. In: Janick, J. ((),ed.), Perspectives on new crops and new uses. ASHS Press, , USA. 2. Paton, A. 1992. A synopsis of Ocimum L. (Labiatae) in Africa. Kew Bulletin 47: 403–435. 3. Paton, A., Putievsky, E. 1996. Taxonomic problems and cytotaxonomic relationships between varieties of Ocimum basilicum and related species (Labiatae). Kew Bulletin 51: 1–16. 4. Grayer, R.J., Kite, G.C., Goldstone, F.J., Bryan, S.E., Paton, A., Putievsky, E. 1996. Infraspecific taxonomy and essential oil chemotypes in sweet basil, Ocimum basilicum. Phytochemistry 43: 1033–1039. 5. Telci, I, Bayram, E., Yılmaz, G., Avcı, B. 2006. Variability in essential oil composition of Turkish (Ocimum basilicum L.). Biochemical Systematics and Ecology 34: 489–497. 6. Mabberley, D.J. 2008. Mabberley’s Plant‐book. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge. 7. European Medicines Agency. 2005. Public statement on the use of medicinal products containing estragole. EMEA, . 8. Van Wyk, B‐E., Wink, M. 2004. Medicinal plants of the world. Briza Publications, Pretoria.

102 Fresh leaves of sweet basil

Sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum)Dried basil

Holy basil (O. tenuiflorum)Hoary basil (Ocimum americanum) basil (O. basilicum var. purpurascens)