CITY GUIDE

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JANUARY 2020 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

MY FAIR L A DIES Portraits of the Torinese Belle Epoque at Fondazione Accorsi-Ometto

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY Top events and places to be

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS

YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936® WELCOME TO ® whereMAGAZINE Turin Turin January 2020 www.whereitalia.com/turin Dear Visitor, Welcome to Turin! PROEDI MEDIA - WHERE Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. 12 INSIDER TIPS Our country has been a world tourism destination T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 the guide [email protected] for more than 500 years, even before the word www.whereitalia.com/turin ‘tourism’ was coined in the XIX century. Now that PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF 26 SHOPPING more than one billion tourists travel throughout Andrea Jarach Kristina Ti’s store transports ([email protected]) the world annually, Italy is the fifth most visited customers into a world MANAGING DIRECTOR of exquisitely feminine Andrea Jarach country in the world with 58.3 million tourists. Daniele Misrachi dresses, delicate floral Publisher And it’s not a coincidence. ([email protected]) Where® prints and diaphanous If you’re here on a pleasure trip, you already know MANAGING EDITOR Villa Crespi Alessandra Finzi lingerie. BRENTATORE CORSO VERCELLI why Italy has such enormous appeal. If, on the ([email protected]) ALESSANDRIA CORSO

TANGENZIALE NORD TORINO 34 DINING other hand, you’re here for business, look around and let Where® be CONTRIBUTORS 8 HOT DATES VI A PAG ANE LLI Parrocchia ENTERTAIMENT Santa Gianna CORSO GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI 38 Opera delights diners’ CORSO GIULIO CESARE ANZ OL A I V your guide. You can use our magazine as a manual to discover and Carey Bernitz, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana S T R A D A D I D R U E N D O palates with the di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale, S T R A D A D I D R U E N D O enjoy the country’s most unique aspects. Whether it’s a question of Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, STRADA DI DRUENDO Yann Tiersen traditional flavours of 500 m V I A V E R O N E S E

history, beautiful landscapes, the number of different experiences Chiara Zaccarelli VIA V I A R E I S S R O M O L I BERGERA VENAR , created with V SIGHTSEEING IA A NDREA SANSOV IA V I A R E I S S R O M O L I IN O available, the food, or the warm, friendly people, remember that the ICONOGRAPHY 40 & MUSEUMSVIA TRAVES CORSO GAETANO SCIREA Juventus Museum V I A V E R O N E S E a contemporary twist to REBAUDENGO

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STRADAALTESSANO VIA SALUTE forget that only a few kilometers from where you are now, you can housing the MagorabinA © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 ST R ADA D V ELL E V I A T E R N I ALLE T T V I E A A IO C O R S O G R O S S E T O I D I S SA DELL RACCORDO AUTOSTRADALE TORINO - CASELLE E R N I A ROSS MBAR IE O V I A L E L IA D E I M LE O DEL CA LE VALLETTE CH U G H E T T I Stazione A D GL I restaurant, Chef Marcello CINCINNATO CORS C O R S O G R O S S E T O enjoy the experiences of a lifetime. V CORSO VERCELLI Madonna di Campagna VIA I A STRA VIA MP VIA FIESO NZIO T E R N I MARKETING & ADVERTISING V V I A L U C E N Chiesa QUI I A L T O A C A PIAZZA VIA PIRANO V I A V I A L E D E I M U G H E T T I S O S P E L L O VI Santa Famiglia Di Nazaret V I A L E D E I M U G H E T T I U V I A B O T T I C E L L I C CONTI CORSO DEL MOLISE C A V I A S O S P Chiesa Santa TrentiniE L L O has launched Casa DI Giardino E L U M I R P E L L E D A I V Caterina da Siena REBAUDENGO To make sure you don’t miss them, consult Where®. CORSO LUCIO V Chiesa Don Gnocchi Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, I A T E R N I V I A S Madonna di Campagna O S P E L L O NA Giardino Jaquerio ADON A SEGANTINI STAV I M GN PIAZZA LE ENZO V I A T E R N IA AMPA RUGGERO Mago, a cozy cocktail bar PIAZZA Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni SIGHTSEEING I V ANNI I C AR V D V AI N C I O L A P O R P O R A VIA BORGARO BONGHI, IA P PIAZZA DERNA V I A B O T T I C E L L I V VIA SARGIO IA GIO VETTA R A V I A B We’re in love with Italy and we want to share this love with you. VIA CARDINALE G. R E N TA V V V I A F O R L I ’ STRADAALTESSANO I A F O D'ITALIA D EL BORGO VITTORIA L I G N O VIA CASTELDELFINO ([email protected]) A Parco Sempione Est V I A M 40 I C H E L E C O P & MUSEUMS V A I N D R E AC E S A LP N I O L A whereP I O you can sample O R B C O R S O T A R A N T O VIA SANSOVINO V I A M I C H E L E CasaCORSO Mago LOMBARDIA C O P P I O Parco Sempione V I A V I T E C A M P I G L I V I A D E L L E P R I M U L E Giardino Cavallotti M ASSAIA

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MY FAIR VI V I A P I A N E Z Z A SSAIA V I A T I C I N O CHI V I A A S S I S I V I A F O R L I ’ VIA M A SI ICHELE VI CORSO GIULIO CESARE VIA LAURO ROSSI L A DIES FRASSATI VIA RENA VIA A NT V E N E Z A VIA GOTTARDO V I A V E R O L E N G O A G.TARTINI ONIO VIBO’ Piazza Chiesa della Salute ROS VI TOP IN TOWN THE REGGE SABAUDE The exhibition itinerary VIA CERESOLE Portraits of the 4 18 V AS I T R A D E L A PIAZZA VIA VEROLENGO E TE HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER N E ANCINA GHIRLANDAIO Torinese Belle Epoque V I A S E M P I OV NI A E G O T T A R D O L at Fondazione Accorsi-Ometto PIAZZA CORSO VERCELLI THIA’ ENEZIA MONT N Parco della Conuenza V VIA ARCANGELO CORELLI SOFIA VIA VAL DELLA TORRE CORSO VIA BOCCARDO SA VIA SEASON MOOD IN TURIN VIA VITERBO VIA PIER LUIGI DA PALESTRINA Parco Aurelio VIA at Turin’s MuseumCORSO of VIA GASPARI SPONTINI Maria Granata ([email protected]) A S TA OS F A I V VIA GIOVENA Enjoy the city, starting from its Some of the best examples Peccei VIA GIAMBATTISTA PERGOLE S O T T O PA S VIA GIOVANNI CRAVERO ALL YOU CAN DO V AI P A I N E Z Z A S O CIGNA IN THE CITY D VI Top events and places to be V I A F O R L I ’ CORSO MORTARA VIA VALPRATO C O VIA SAVERIO MERCADA O A ERRICO GI LARGO PIAZZA N VIA DEL RIDOT TO V I A G O T T A R D O Decorative Arts holds PIAZZA VIA CHERUBINI V I A STRADELLA A OTTORINO main landmark attractions. of 17th and 18th century TRE SI T VIA CHERUBINI RESPIGHI S E M P I O CUSTOMER SERVICES Chiesa del Santo Volto - CABINE CORSO POTENZA VIA LUIGI SALVATORE CHERUBINI VIA BORGARA C A VIA VALPRATO VIA VALPRATO VIA A CHINO V I N E C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A T V I A F R A N C E A A T D O M

I VIA ORVIETO N myriad surprises in store, Cristina Garbini ([email protected]) VIA CERVINO MEF Museo Ettore Fico European architecture. Parco Dora Parrocchia E N I VIA TESSO A San Domenico Savio SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS C O

VIA LEINI VIA CERVINO VIA ALESSANDRO CRUTO A B O L O G N C M I I PO RELLA BARRIERA V CORSO VENEZIA Teatro Monterosa Centro Piero including a collectionA of VIA BALTEA D O R A R I P A R I A VIA SOAN A VIA ERRICO PETRELLA PIAZZALE SUPPLEMENTO DI WHERE® MILAN R O S A della Francesca PIAZZA DELLA LUNGO DORA LIGURIA Stazione Torino Dora GTT VIA GIOVANNI PAISIELLO VIA MADDALENE HOT DATES V I A P COVER 8 CORSO VERCELLI VIA ALESSANDRO SCARLAT TI AUGUSTO CROCE DI MILANO O REGIO PARCO PIAZZA ROSTAGNI ROSSA REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 453, 19 JULY 2010 A Z Z E N A I P A I V GENERALE RS Parco vittime del rogo nello stabilimento ThyssenKrupp porcelainANTONIO Cby O R S O V I G E V A N O Meissen and Giardini del Vittorio Corcos, Paolina Clelia LLA CO E VIA PIETRO COSSA BALDISSERA Piazzale della CORSO MORTARA Parrocchia EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N. 2455 O C I G N A VIA CANDIA VIA GIORGIO GHEDINI Croce Rossa This month’s round-up of art Maria Regina E N O I P M E S A I V Chiesa di San Gaetano da Thiene WELCOME BACK A NV I T O CON ECI C H I RSO GIULIO CESARE 20 C O UROS M A BRI C O R S O V I G E V A N O PIAZZA Della Pace Silvia Bondi (1909) on show at CORSO SVIZZERA V AI S A NI CEC C O R S O U M B R I A FRANCESCO DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH O VIA ERRICO PETR CRISPI CO a boudoir that belonged VIA SANTHIA’ SASC V AI D O VIA ADOLPHE DAUBRÉE T B O Piscina scolastica comunale E8 "The adventure of the gaze" PIAZZA I A F R A N SA V VIA exhibitions, music and local SSINA GIOVANNI N WINTER! E IA PIOS M PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA CORSO POTENZA V PALERMO BOTTESINI VIA BOLOGNA D O R A R I P A R I A E N VENO V IA A M IL C A R E P O N C H IE L L I Fondazione Accorsi-Ometto, Ospedale Amedeo di Savoia IA NTE RO I C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A S O C O to Christian Dior… O

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E H C R A M O S R O C Parco Pubblico Pellerina E LUIGI DAMIANO Parco del Meisino Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, C O R S O O T TO N E R O S A I A LARGO VIA CUNEO R E G I O VIA PISTOIA VI BOLOGNA V I A C U N E O Mario Carrara to discover the alpine resorts A NV I T O CON ECI C H I CORSO VERCELLI RSO in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would VIA SONDRIO VIA CEVA 44 ESSENTIALS CO VIA TOLLEGO LIVORNO VIA BRA A CORSO ENRICO GAMBA VI VIA CREMONA VIA FOSSANO A like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be CHIESA S T R A D A D E L F O R T NI O Stimmate di VIA San Francesco D'Assisi CORSO APPIO CLAUDIO IELL VIA CAPUA V IA U R B IN O VIA NOVI V I A G I O V A N N I S E R V A I S that have made Piedmont B 12 TORINO, A (FOOD) STAR VIA RUGGERO LEONCAVALLO published in the next issue. LARGO Parrocchia Gesù Operaio InformationI A and tips CORSO APPIO CLAUDIO V PALERMO VIA CEVA VIA GIOVANNI PACINI C O UROS M A BRI VIA BOLOGNA VIA DON GIOVANNI BOSCO V IA P E S A R O STAY IN TOUCH CORSO SVIZZERA RI VIA LODI VIA ANGELO SISMONDA C O R S O A P P I O C L A U D I O VIA AQUILA VIA PRINCIPESSA CLOTILDE Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A VIA BA IS BORN one of Italy’s most attractive V I A C O M O V I A S E R V A I S VIA TRIVERO CORSO LECCE to experience theL U N G O D O Rbest A N A P O L I VIA ORNAVASSO VIA V IA C IR IE C O R S O B R E S C IA V V I A G I O V A N N I S E R V A I S A CORSO GIULIO CESARE P A A I I N O S S A T O R D N A S S E L A O S R O C VIA information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any L www.whereitalia.com/turin PIAZZA CORSO PRINCIPEL ODDON V I A R O V I G O

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V IA M A T E R A VIA VIA MASSENA CA VIA FERDINANDO MAGELLANO VIA GIUSEPPE PIAZZI RLE V I A V E G L I A VIA GIORGIO BIDONE V IA A D A N E G R I LARGO VIA GIAN DOMENICO CASSINI SAN SALVARIO TIRRENO A CORSO RE UMBERTO CORSO RAFFAELL E V IA M O N F A L C O N E VIA OSOPPOGiardino VIA ALFONSO LAMARMORA Walter IA ORE V I A T I R R E N O I UR C O R S O C A N O N I C O G I U S E P P E A L L A M A N O Ferrarotti Giardino Francesca O I PIAZZA I A O R M Laura Morvillo Ospedale Umberto I di Torino NIZZA LF V G NA O URATI V PA I O M A R O STI C A B E VIA MICHELANGELO BUONARROTI O VI P I E T R CRI R Nizza CO A S CORSO GALILEO FERRARIS RSO C O R S O C A N O N I C O G I U S E P P E A L L A M A N O CORSO SIRACUSA O VI V I A T I R R E N O M A RAF E VIA SALUZZO N R CORSO FILIPPO T A FAEL S T R D. E L G E R B ID O I D C O LO VI D A GAETAN MA E Istituto Maria Consolatrice N I O DONIZET C O IA VIA GUIDO RENI VIA GORIZIA L A V O TI V IA B A R L E T T A VIA ROVERETO V IA M O N F A L C O N E VIA RICCIONE AR VIA FRANCESCO PETR Museo di

Giardino Cesare L U G Parrocchia Antropologia Criminale C O R S O D A N T E Santuario ARCA CORSO MONTE LUNGO Sacro Cuore di Gesù STO

A E R C A I V VIA TRIPOLI Valperga di Masino VIA LAZZARO SPALLANZANI VIA FRAN Borgo Medievale RNE V I A B A LT I M O R A ZZO CES CORSO V IA A R Q U A T A CO PETRA A E del Valentino I RC Teatro Nuovo V VIA NIZZA VIA VI A PIAZZALE NCENZO MONTI

COSTANTINO V I A S A L U VIA SANTA RITA FRAN Parrocchia San Giorgio Martire VIA UGO FOSCOLO IL GRANDE CESC C O R S O S E B A S T O P O L I V IA B A R L E T T A C O R S O D A N T E A L I G H I E R I O EA PETRA CORSO LEPANTO VIA UGO FOSCOLO R O G I U R I A T RC RM A IE CORSO MASSIMO D’AZEGLIO CORSO FILIPPO TURATI O V AR I A P A L O VIA VINC PIAZZA A I A P V DE AMICIS VI EN ZO MO PIAZZA VIA ILARIONE PETITTI NTI SANTA RITA Giardino Dante Giorgio Anglesio C O R S O D A N T E A L I G H I E R I S T R . D E L G E R B I D O V I A B A LT I M O R A DA CASCIA VIA MARIO PAGANO V IA B A R L E T T A CORSO IV NOVEMBRE VIA TIZIANO VECELLIO VIA ILARIONE PETITTI Chiesa Parrocchiale Parco Cavalieri CORSO MONCALIERI 500 m CORSO BRAMANTE STINA S. Rita da Cascia di Vittorio Veneto V IA R O B E R T O A R D IG O CRI VIA CORREGGIO Ponte Isabella M A

DA VIA TIZIANO VECELLIO MARENCO

C O R S O S E B A S T O P O L I O TI Parco VIA ANTO VIA SALUZZO GERBIDO V I A F I L A D E L F I A MA T I Muratori NIO CA LIO ARL MASO GROSSI A VIA GORIZIA NOVA C E M VI L ABRERA O CCHE I I VIA IOTTO L VIA LUDOVICO ANTONIO MURATORI A RO G VIA T A VIA NIZZA G. CH A G VIA ANTONIO CANOVA D’AZEG O I VIA LEONARDO DA VINCI M E V L VIA BENVENUTO CELLINI VIA L I RLO A EA A G V I A B A LT I M O R A VIA VINCENZO STEFFENONE CORSO BRAMANTE IMO Parco Rignon C O S ORM R VIA

CORSO SIRACUSA A O I C VIA LUIGI FEDERICO MENABREA V 500 m V I A C R E A PO RSO MASS

CORSO UNIONEVIA TUNISI SOVIETICA V IA P A O L O G A ID A N O CO Carducci C O R S O B R A M A N T E VIA ARDUINO Molinette V I A F I L A D E L F I A

VIA TRIPOLI

CORSO GALILEO FERRARIS VIA GIORDANO BRUNO Stadio Olimpico Grande Torino di Torino Ponte Balbis

VIA GUIDO RENI CORSO ORBASSANO C O R S O S E B A S T O P O L I VIA CHISOLA I PIAZZA T V IA S A N M A R IN O T MUZIO VIA ABEGG O I SCEVOLA L V I A F I L A D E L F I A PIAZZA G Parrocchia Natale del Signore Ospedale O PITAGORA D BORGO VIA AL Molinette O AZZIO I R

MIRAFIORI NORD A V I A C R E A M

CHERASCO VIA AL

E PILONETTO AZZIO S T R . D E L P O R T O N E V I A G E N O V A A S U C A R I S O S R O C VIA

V I A T U N I S I VIA NIZZA L L

VIA GORIZIA I VIA ST ELLONE H

VIA THONON C A V I A F I L A D E L F I A

CORSO SPEZIA O

C O R S O C O S E N Z A VIA TRIPOLI VIA VARAZZE S C O R S O E . T A Z Z O L I R

V I A B U E N O S A I R E S Spezia O C CORSO SPEZIA V IA S A N M A R IN O

VIA BRONI

CORSO GIOVANNI AGNELLI VIA C.MARTINOTTI CORSO SPEZIA VIA VARAITA

CORSO ORBASSANO CORSO MONCALIERI CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICAV I A M O N T E V I D E O PIAZZA

VIA VENTIMIGLIA POLONIA V I A B U E N O S A I R E S Parrocchia VIA ARNALDO DA BRESCIA Madonna delle Rose VIA GIULIOEataly BIGLIERI Torino Cimitero Parco VIA PIETRO BAIARDI Ospedale Regina Margherita VIA ELLERO

VIA GIULIO BIGLIERI V I A G E N O V A

CORSO COSENZA V I A TA G G I A V I A A S U N C I O N S T R . D E L P O R T O N E VIA SAN REMO VIA VENTIMIGLIA V I A T U N I S I VIA GIULIO BIGLIERI VIA LAVAGNA VIA ZINO ZINI Pinacoteca Giovanni C O R S O E N R IC O T A Z Z O L I VIA e Marella Agnelli VIA NIZZA VIA GIORDANO BRUNO PROSPERO RICHELMY

CORSO ORBASSANO CORSO EUSEBIO GIAMBONE Lingotto CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA CAVORETTO LINGOTTO Passerella Olimpica Museo dell'Automobile di Torino

VIA SPOTORNO VIA GARESSIO Lingotto PO SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO VIA VADO

CORSO ORBASSANO

VIA MILLEFONTI V I A G E N O V A SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO Lingotto Fiere CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIAVIA VENTIMIGLIA MILLEFONTI

CORSO CORSICA SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO Fiat Chrysler Automobiles Giardino C O R S O L U IG I S E T T E M B R IN I CORSO CADUTI SUL LAVORO STRADA TORINO Giuseppe Levi Stazione Torino Lingotto Ex Area Fiat Avio Lubricanti CORSO MONCALIERI VIA PASSO BUOLE

NITÀ D'ITALIA NIZZA U

C O R S O T R A IA N O R S O CORSO GIOVANNI AGNELLI VIA PIO VII

MILLEFONTI CO Parco Giuseppe Di Vittorio

VIA PASSO BUOLE Torre Regione Piemonte

VIA SOMMARIVA Palavela

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIA NIZZA VIA PASSO BUOLE I R E I L A C N O M O S R O C

Parrocchia Assunzione VIA O. VIGLIANI di Maria Vergine Giardino Corpo VIA Italiano di Liberazione

C O R S O T R A IA N O V I A G E N O V A

VIA O. VIGLIANI

VIA VENTIMIGLIA

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T MIRAFIORI SUD CORSO BENEDETTO CROCE Palazzo del Lavoro VIA PIO VII CORSO PIERO MARONCELLI

VIA O. VIGLIANI CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA

V I A O N O R A T O V I G L I A N I PIAZZA CORSO FRAT. ROSSELLI

BENGASI

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

M O T R A E L E U N A M E A I V P O

Parco Colonnetti S TRA D TONA OR I

E T S E I R T O S R O C

VIA S A N G O N E

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

S A N G O N E BORGARETTO

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T

VIALE TORINO VIA TORINO

C O R S O T R EI S T E PO

VIA BOGINO MONCALIERI

VIA TORINO

VIALE TORINO STUPINIGI

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi Parrocchia di Stupinigi

500 m

Parco Naturale di Stupinigi [ SIGHTSEEING]

MORE AT PAGE 40 Top in town MAP PAGES 46-47 factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the 4 7 13 5 wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it hosts events and the famous rooftop test track. The old Carpano plants, lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. 10

MUSEO NAZIONALE DELL’AUTOMOBILE The Car Museum (MAUTO) was opened in 1960 and is one of the oldest car museums in the world. The semi-circular building overlooking the River Po acts as a prelude to the three floors of the collection featuring a spectacular layout designed by François Confinio, who also designed the exhibition space of the Museum LUCA SANTILLI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM MATEJ KASTELIC/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM MATEJ MARCO CRUPI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM GIMAS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM © © © © of Cinema. 11

151 15 9 ALLIANZ JUVENTUS STADIUM Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, this is the sixth largest stadium in Italy. It is owned by the Juventus Football Club whose home matches have been played here since 2011. An architectural symbol, it is one of the most avant- garde facilities in the world. The J-Museum, the official football museum of the ‘bianconero’ team is hosted inside the stadium. 12

BASILICA DI SUPERGA Situated on the hills surrounding Turin, it offers a breathtaking view. It was built as a thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from the French siege (1706) and designed by Filippo Juvarra. One of the most picturesque ways of CKTRAVELLING/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM PIO3/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM BORIS STROUJKO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, which © © © rattles the 3km up the hillside. 13

REGGIA DI MOLE ANTONELLIANA artifacts, from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. headquarters of the first Subalpine Senate. Its King Vittorio Amedeo II gifted it to his future VIA PO PROMENADE Located inside the Park of La Mandria, this is a A landmark building of Turin since 1889, it was The archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean- name refers to ‘Madame Royale’ Christine of bride in 1714. Don’t miss a visit to this A stroll beneath the typical Torinese porticoes in Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th purchased by the municipality who decided to François Champollion once said: ‘the road to , who took up residence here in 1600. magnificent residence, distinguished by the via Po, packed with shops and cafés, is an century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo make it a monument to Italian unification. Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin’. 2 The view of the city from the Panoramic Tower remains of its original 18th century decorations absolute must. From here, you can access Piazza Emanuele II. Particularly worthy of note are the Standing at a height of 167.5m, at the time of its is spectacular. 4 and furnishings, and its Italianate gardens. Villa Vittorio Veneto, the largest square in the city. The Grand Gallery, the Chapel of St. Hubert, the construction it was the highest brick building in MUSEI REALI della Regina is a part of the circuit of the Royal square ends at the Vittorio Emanuele I bridge, Galleria di Diana, the 18th century Scuderie Europe. Built in an eclectic style, the Mole has a The residence of the Savoys until 1865, it is now PARCO DEL VALENTINO Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO which connects it to the square of the church of Juvarrine and the Citroniera, now used to host squat square base topped by a large dome with owned by the Italian government. The museum Located on the banks of the Po River, and world heritage site. 6 the Gran Madre di Dio (1830), renowned for its events. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal a spire. You can ascend to the panoramic tour comprises a 3km route spread over 30,000 spread over 550,000 sq.m., this is the city’s most imposing pantheon-like shape. 8 Residences of Turin and Piedmont. 14 observation platform either by elevator or on sq.m. and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. In 1563, popular park. Its interior houses numerous TEATRO REGIO foot by climbing its 573 steps. Since 2000, it has Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved the treasures including the Castello del Valentino, a The Regio is one of the most important Italian PIAZZA SAN CARLO PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI hosted the National Museum of Cinema. 1 capital of the duchy from Chambéry to Turin, UNESCO world heritage site and a part of the theatres on the European scene, offering an Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, it Built in Baroque style in 1729, and only 10km marking the beginning of a major urban circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and action-packed program of opera and ballet. It was commissioned by Marie Christine of France from Piazza Castello, with its French garden, MUSEO EGIZIO transformation and the enrichment of the Piedmont, the Medieval Village and Castle, and was designed by Filippo Juvarra and in true Parisian style with seemingly endless Stupinigi was the royal family’s favourite place Founded in 1824, Turin’s Egyptian Museum is dynastic collections, which now include artifacts the Botanical Gardens (1729). 5 inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, porticoes housing fashion boutiques, and an for celebrations and events. At the beginning of the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and from the prehistoric era to the present time. 3 and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo equestrian statue - the ‘Caval d’Brons’ – of Duke the 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy the second in terms of the value and quality of Mollino, the only part of the original building Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre. 9 took up permanent residence here. In 1919, its treasures outside of Cairo. In 2006, during PALAZZO MADAMA The summer country residence of the House of that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO Stupinigi became the headquarters of the Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum was Situated in the centre of piazza Castello, it has Savoy, it was built at the beginning of the 17th world heritage site. Its unusual gate, named LINGOTTO Furniture Museum. It is a part of the circuit of the re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer always been a reference point in the city, from century as a court vineyard. It became known as ‘Odissea Musicale’ (Musical Odyssey) is by This complex of buildings built in 1916, based Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a Dante Ferretti. It houses more than 37,000 Roman times to 1848, when it became the Villa della Regina (literally the Queen’s Villa) when Umberto Mastroianni. 7 on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT UNESCO world heritage site. 15

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The old centre of Savoy power − Turin’s Palazzo Reale (Royal Palace), renowned for its the square behind the Palace in the 19th century. unmistakable Baroque facade, is located in the heart of the It is adorned with statues of Castor and Pollux. city, in Piazzetta Reale next to Piazza Castello. − Based on a project by the famous architect Domenico − In 1584, Carlo Emanuele I entrusted its construction to Ferri, the Grand Staircase of Honor was built shortly after Ascanio Vitozzi. After his death, supervision of the work was the Unification of Italy, in the late 1800s (see photo). handed over to Amedeo di , and later to Carlo − When the capital transferred to Rome, the Palace was Morello. Over the centuries, the palace’s opulent interiors converted into a public museum and declared a UNESCO were designed by several different illustrious architects. World Heritage Site in 1997. − The piano nobile features several magnificent rooms − Today, the Royal Palace, with its magnificent rooms, lavishly decorated with allegorical images. At the end including gilded ceilings, paintings, tapestries, crystal of the 17th century, Daniel Seiter frescoed the ceiling chandeliers and chiseled furnishings inlaid with gold, of the Gallery, whose grandeur rivals that of Versailles’ precious stones, mother-of-pearl and ivory, is a part of Hall of Mirrors. the Royal Museums. − In the 18th century, the architect Filippo Juvara, − The entry ticket to the Royal Museums includes the designed the charming Chinese Room, and the Scala delle following itineraries: the Royal Apartment on the first floor Forbici (Staircase of Scissors), an imposing marble staircase, of Palazzo Reale, in addition to the Armoury and the consisting of double ramps, which, due to its light curved Chapel of the Holy Shroud, plus the Savoy Gallery and spiral, appears to detach itself at the top. the Antiques Museum. − Pelagio Pelagi designed the large gate that cordons off www.museireali.beniculturali.it/palazzo-reale WHERE NOW | HOT DATES MORE ON WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/WHAT-TO-DO-TURIN

JANUARY

HOTWhether it’s discovering the events celebratingDATES Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. BY ELENA PEVERATA © SERGIO GUIDI/GETTY IMAGES

LAST DAYS

UNTIL ENZO FERRARI’S COACH BUILDER ◄ One hundred years after his birth, Turin’s Museo Nazionale dell’Automobile (Car Museum) pays tribute to ‘car designer’ Sergio Scaglietti, Enzo Ferrari’s coach builder 19 of choice, with an exhibition of the most important cars JANUARY designed by him. Scaglietti was the brilliant and intuitive inventor of the metallic shapes that covered Ferrari cars, making the Modena-based factory famous throughout the world for its style and exquisite craftsmanship. The exhibition features nine extraordinary cars, including the 750 Monza, the 250 Testa Rossa and the 275 GTB, plus two rare iron chassis, one belonging to the 750 Monza and the other to the legendary 250 GTO, recently sold at an auction for a record figure of 48 million dollars.

Tribute to Sergio Scaglietti MAUTO Museo Nazionale dell’Automobile di Torino. Corso Unità d’Italia, 40 www.museoauto.it

8 WHERE TURIN I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 9 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES MORE ON WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/WHAT-TO-DO-TURIN

ORIENTAL ART THE TWILIGHT OF CLASSICAL JAPAN ◄ An exhibition featuring the 19 16 works of Katsushika Hokusai OCTOBER FEBRUARY (1760-1849) and Utagawa 2019 2020 Hiroshige (1797-1858), two renowned 18th century masters of the ‘Fluctuating World’, showcased alongside the modern prints of Kawase Hasui (1883-1957) who developed the themes and techniques of polychrome xylographs. A journey into the most evocative places of Japan, both real and imaginary, that tells the story of the artistic world of a country which evolved radically between the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century. Kanbara: Night Snow (Kanbara, yoru no yuki), second state, from the series Fifty-three Stations of the Tôkaidô Road (Tôkaidô gojûsan tsugi no uchi), also known as the First Tôkaidô or Great Tôkaidô - Utagawa Hiroshige I (Japanese, Hokusai, Hiroshige, Hasui. Journey through a changing Japan 1797–1858) - Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. William Sturgis Bigelow Collection Photograph © Museum of Fine Arts, Boston 2 Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli, Lingotto. Via Nizza, 230/103 www.pinacoteca-agnelli.it ART

LANDSCAPES OF LIGHT

PORTRAITS sul mare - In lettura Corcos Vittorio ► This captivating exhibition at the Musei Reali is dedicated to Estonian artist Konrad Mägi, renowned THE ESSENCE OF 30 8 for his extraordinary power of expression. Featuring NOVEMBER MARCH more than fifty paintings, the work of Konrad Mägi THE BELLE EPOQUE 2019 2020 ▲ An unmissable house-museum, and a is the work of a restless and intense personality who 3 16 tribute to an important 19th century painter: through his landscape painting, consisting, above all, of light and colour, tells the story of OCTOBER FEBRUARY how to take a trip back in time and find oneself the charm of the nature of the north, with its large skies, lakes, expansive countryside and 2019 2020 in the Belle Epoque. The exhibition dedicated cliffs overlooking the sea. Mägi is considered the forefather of contemporary Estonian to Vittorio Corcos, the undisputed master of the female portrait, is a gallery painting and is often compared to artists like Vincent Van Gogh and Alfred Sisley, with of the stars of high society at the turn of the 19th century, famous, elegant whom he shared the bold use of pictorial material and luminous effects. women, including Lina Cavalieri, Isadora Duncan and Maria Josè, and aristocratic, Konrad Mägi. La luce del Nord haute bourgeois women set in the opulent surroundings of their homes. His Musei Reali Torino – Sale Chiablese. Piazzetta Reale, 1 paintings, intimate and devoted to a thousand details of luxury, exude an almost

www.museireali.beniculturali.it Mägi, Konrad perceptible, fragrant essence narrating the spirit of the times.

Vittorio Corcos. The adventure of the gaze

Fondazione Accorsi-Ometto, Museo di Arti Decorative. Via Po, 55 SIMONE DIL LUCA©2019 www.fondazioneaccorsi-ometto.it ENTERTAINMENT EXHIBITION UNFORGETTABLE A RENAISSANCE MASTER SOUNDTRACKS ◄ Andrea Mantegna (1431-1506), one of FAIR ▲ The Lingotto Auditorium pays tribute the greatest artists of the Italian Renaissance, to Maestro Ennio Morricone and his 12 4 is the star of this fabulous exhibition, that’s 5 DECEMBER MAY SUNDAY ANTIQUES MARKET currently showing in the monumental rooms JANUARY unforgettable compositions. The Ensemble 2019 2020 The Balôn, Turin’s historic flea market established in 1857, is Symphony Orchestra will treat audiences to of Palazzo Madama. The exhibition features held every Saturday in via Cottolengo, via Lanino, via Mameli, a live performance of the film scores composed by Morricone more than 100 works, brought together thanks to prestigious international 12 Borgo Dora, Canale Carpanini, Salita and the Cortile del including ‘The Good, the Bad and the Ugly’, ‘Mission’, ‘The loans, and also includes masterpieces by several of the major protagonists of the JANUARY Maglio. On the second Sunday of each month, since 1985, Legend of the Pianist on the Ocean’, ‘Once Upon a Time in Renaissance with whom Mantegna interacted, including Donatello, Antonello da the same areas host the Gran Balôn, a sprawling antiques the West’, ‘Cinema Paradiso’, ‘A Fistful of Dollars’, ‘The Hateful Messina, Pisanello, Paolo Uccello, Giovanni Bellini, Cosmè Tura, Ercole de’ Roberti market where antique dealers, junk shop owners, artisans, musicians and Eight’, ‘Once Upon a Time in America’ and ‘For a Few Dollars and Correggio. In addition to paintings, drawing and prints, the exhibition artists gather to perform or display their wares. The cornucopia of items on More’. Soloists and the ‘prime parti’ of important theatres features a display of sculptures, medals, autographed letters and precious offer includes furniture, pottery, books, clothing, vintage goods and artisanal and Italian symphony orchestras will take turns on the stage ancient printed books as well as illuminated manuscripts. The exhibition itinerary products. With 250 stalls, 50 shops, and an array of cafes and restaurants, during this unmissable evening honoring the famous Italian is preceded by spectacular multimedia screenings in Palazzo Madama’s Medieval visitors to this market will be spoilt for choice. composer. Special guests include soprano Anna Delfino and Courtyard.

Attila Simon, soloist violin of the Cirque du Soleil. Andrea Mantegna. Gran Balôn Making Antiquity Modern 8am-6pm The Legend of Ennio Morricone Palazzo Madama. Piazza Castello Via Borgo Dora and surrounding areas - www.balon.it Auditorium "Giovanni Agnelli". Via Nizza, 280 www.lingottomusica.it www.palazzomadamatorino.it Andrea Mantegna - Madonna con Bambino e Santi e Gerolamo - Madonna con Andrea Mantegna Musée Jacquemart-André 1453-1454 - Paris, di Tolosa Ludovico

10 WHERE TURIN I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 11 WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS TORINO, A (food) STAR IS BORN Antica Corona Reale

The top five restaurants Antica Corona Reale, whose prime focus is Antonino Cannavacciuolo’s gastronomic in Piedmont its connection with the land. In a picturesque, temple, stems from a combination of the This small yet important category takes us old-world setting with exposed brick vaulted cuisine of Campania – the chef’s birthplace directly to the top dining establishments in ceilings, the noble products of Piedmontese – and Piedmontese tradition. The leitmotif of Piedmont, to discover its three and two-starred cuisine, including truffles and Fassona beef, his tasting menus are simplicity, respect for restaurants. The heart of the Langhe and, become the stars of a tasting menu and an ingredients and their seasonality, and their more specifically, the city of Alba, is home to à la carte menu curated by chef Gian Piero skillful pairing with wines chosen from Piazza Duomo, the only three-star restaurant Vivalda, who re-creates the great classics among 1,800 Italian and international labels in Piedmont and the creative kingdom of chef of tradition in an innovative key (www.villacrespi.it). Enrico Crippa. Established as a ‘project to (www.anticacoronareale.it). Located on the shores of Lake Maggiore, promote and educate diners about good living, Located in the same area, we find La Piccolo Lago, a modern location decorated with good food and good wine’ – to echo the words Madernassa, which, under the guidance of wrought iron, wood and large floor-to-ceiling of the chef – Piazza Duomo’s cuisine is based on young chef Michelangelo Mammoliti, earned windows overlooking the lake, is renowned for locally sourced, high-quality products, including its second star in November 2019. Named the cosmopolitan cuisine of chef Marco Sacco. meat, cheese and seasonal vegetables grown after a variety of pears grown in the area lying The culinary offerings, ranging from tasting in the restaurant’s vegetable garden. The menu behind the resort, the restaurant features menus paired with wines to à la carte dishes, are features a balanced mixture of international three dining rooms overlooking the hills of distinguished by a particular focus on fish-based influences and traditional Langhe fare, which is the Langhe, where lovers of fine dining can specialties, combined with dishes reminiscent best when paired with a list of prestigious wines, sample an innovative cuisine based on ongoing of the creations that are part of the history of selected by sommelier Vincenzo Donatiello, research. Local specialties, combined with the the chef and his restaurant. Those seeking an and endorsed by the experience of the Ceretto area’s ‘poorer’ produce, including forgotten unusual experience can opt for 'In Cucina con gli family, the owners of the restaurant and roots, flowers, shoots or wild herbs, become the Chef' (‘In the Kitchen with the Chefs’), an ad hoc wine producers for three generations strong point of the tasting menu featuring six, gastronomic experience created by Marco Sacco (www.piazzaduomoalba.it). eight, or ten courses, plus a beautifully curated that allows guests to watch the preparation of We need to head towards à la carte menu (www.lamadernassa.it). the dishes close-up and taste as many of them La Madernassa Cuneo to discover On reaching the shores of two Piedmontese as they want to. The only requisite is keeping our first two-star lakes, Lake Orta and Lake Maggiore, we locate account of the time at which the experience restaurant: the Villa Crespi and the Piccolo Lago. Villa Crespi, began (www.piccololago.it).

The prestigious 2020 Michelin ust as the Oscars and Grammys represent mastery of flavour and cooking techniques; the highest honour in the world of film and the chef’s ability to imbue the cuisine with his Guide has once again confirmed music, it is not surprising that a coveted or her culinary “personality;” value for money; Chef Enrico Crippa J Spazio Duomo Piedmont’s second place in the Michelin star rating is regarded as one of the and consistency between visits, not only when ranking of Italian regions with highest accolades a restaurant can achieve. No it comes to food, but also as far as the overall region understands this better than Piedmont dining experience is concerned. Therefore, the highest number of Michelin- which, on the strength of its prized produce, contrary to common belief, the star is awarded starred restaurants. A tribute to its tradition of world-class food and wine, and to the restaurant and not the chefs. This Piedmont’s rich culinary tradition the creative flair of its chefs, has achieved the means that chefs can’t take the stars with them impressive number of 46 starred restaurants if they leave, and also that the stars can’t be and outstanding regional in the 2020 edition of the Michelin Guide, transferred to another restaurant owned by offerings. Where® invites you to including one three-starred, four two-starred the same chef. and forty one one-starred restaurants. What’s the difference between one, two or discover the best restaurants in Before starting our journey to discover the three stars? According to the Michelin Guide, Turin and offers a few tips for a best restaurants in Piedmont, it’s important to one Michelin star represents a “high-quality gourmet out-of-town trip. understand the meaning of these ‘stars’. The cooking, with a stop”, while two stars denote a Michelin Guide’s star-awarding process takes restaurant boasting “excellent cooking” that is BY GIULIA MINERO place after an anonymous visit by inspectors, worth a detour. Three stars, however, represent catering and hospitality experts, who make the ultimate accolade, afforded only to those an assessment based on five fundamental restaurants that offer “exceptional cuisine that is Condividere criteria: the quality of the products; a chef’s worth a special journey” (www.viamichelin.it).

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The taste of Turin If you’re in Turin and want to indulge in a lunch or dinner featuring the region’s finest offerings, you’re in the right place because the choice of starred restaurants in the shadow of the Mole is richer than ever. There’s even a new ‘star’ in the Walk of Fame of Torinese taste, which this year includes 8 starred restaurants. We’re talking about Condividere, the gourmet restaurant at the Nuvola Lavazza, where every element, from the furniture to the table settings, is designed to make guests feel at ease, recreating an atmosphere typical of Italian Sunday lunches.

Here, traditional cuisine is re-imagined in a BRAMBILLA_SERRANI contemporary key by chef Federico Zanasi, © giving life to creations of haute cuisine that can be enjoyed in a relaxed, informal ambience. tiramisu in the shape of a sphere enhanced with or ‘Cremino d’artista’. The wine list is the result of Standouts include ‘Bob Noto Parmesan- exotic touches (ristorantecarignano.it). a collaboration with Eataly whose well-stocked flavoured Ice Cream’, ‘Chickpea Flour Waffles’, and Though different in concept, the gastronomic cellar provides all the precious labels featured on Piccolo Lago ‘Modenese Brioches’. Particular attention is paid offerings proposed by Casa Vicina are the restaurant’s wine list (www.casavicina.com – to desserts which are served in the separate distinguished by the same research and www.eataly.net). ‘Dulcis in fundo’ area, where guests can choose innovation. The restaurant is distiguished by On the subject of fine dining in Turin, a from among different Lavazza coffee blends dim lighting, relaxing colours in shades of special mention goes to Del Cambio, an apparent in more traditional fare, his love of Farmacia Del Cambio (www.delcambio.it). artichokes and black truffles’ or 'FusillORO, accompanied by original single-serve desserts grey and beige, wood details and elegant, institution for more sophisticated palates. innovation is expressed in the use of avant- Spazio 7, the restaurant housed in turnip tops, mussels and fermented apple’. (www.condividere.com). designer furniture. It is housed inside Eataly, Since its establishment in 1757, this restaurant, garde techniques, alternative cooking methods, contemporary arts centre Fondazione Indulging in the #OCCUPYTHETABLE tasting There’s also good news for lovers of Antonino in the heart of the Lingotto district, formerly overlooking Palazzo Carignano, has been experimentation and the daring pairing Sandretto Re Rebaudengo, has a much more menu means immersing yourself in a nine- Cannavacciuolo’s cuisine who don’t have the headquarters of FIAT, Italy’s number one patronized by a roster of crowned heads, movie of different flavours. There are four tasting modern atmosphere. The restaurant, an integral course gastronomic experience, an authentic time to travel to the lakes. The Neapolitan automotive company. Casa Vicina boasts stars and ‘viveurs’. Although some remnants menus: ‘Improvvisazione Ragionata’, ‘Piemonte’, part of the foundation, interacts with its art expression of Spazio 7’s cuisine. The wine list chef also helms Cannavacciuolo Bistrot, a 116 years of history, inextricably linked to the of its glorious past, including its architectural ‘Tradizione’ and ‘Innovazione’, names that sum works, from which it draws inspiration for its features a well-structured mixture of great Italian charming oasis of taste, just steps from the Vicina family, which still curates every detail, elements and the frescoed dining room up the philosophy to which they aspire, and dishes. Experimentation and fusion, with a nod and French classics, with the addition of wines Church of Gran Madre di Dio. This bistro, from the kitchen to the dining room, including favoured by Count Cavour, whose table it still embody Baronetto’s creative universe, while à to simplicity in the creation of courses and the from small producers and organic wineries with a panoramic view, amazes guests with the choice of wines. The high quality of the hosts, have remained unchanged, its cuisine la carte offerings include the great classics like selection of raw materials, is the watchword (www.ristorantespazio7.it). the refined simplicity of its décor, inspired raw materials, and a deep-rooted love of could not be more modern. Credit for this goes vitello tonnato, plin ravioli, bollito misto and of the cuisine signed by chef Alessandro Located just a stone’s throw from the Mole by the philosophy of Feng Shui. Its culinary traditional cuisine, continuously re-imagined in to chef Matteo Baronetto, who following an bunet. Those on a tighter schedule, or in Mecca. Mirroring contemporary art, the Antonelliana, we find the gastronomic universe offerings are based on Italian tradition, where a contemporary key, results in dishes like ‘Carne important repositioning project, infused its search of a light lunch, an aperitivo, or a combination of seemingly disparate ingredients, of chef Marcello Trentini, the heart and soul of ingredients, typical of southern cuisine, are cruda alla canavesana con grissino all’acciuga’, cuisine with a touch of innovative vibrancy. delectable dessert created by chef pâtissier gives life to recipes that are a pleasantly Magorabin. The restaurant’s interior, featuring combined with the flavours of the north, to fully ‘Agnolotti pizzicati a mano con sugo d’arrosto’ Although the chef’s Piedmontese roots are Fabrizio Galla, should drop in at cafe-bistro surprising. These include ‘Sole, Jerusalem a contemporary, cosmopolitan design, blends reflect the chef’s two heritages. Some examples? ‘Tonno vitellato with a bottarga (fish roe) mayonnaise’, ‘Cappellacci with oxtail, cauliflower and licorice’, and ‘Yuzu tart with wild fennel’ (www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it). Turin’s third and mostly recent starred restaurant is Carignano, a gourmet destination located inside the Grand Hotel Sitea, but also open to outside guests. Located in the heart of Turin, the restaurant’s innovative cuisine, the result of the creative flair of chef Fabrizio Tesse and his wingman Marco Miglioli, serves as a contrast to the hotel’s façade and 1920s-style decorative elements. Traditional flavours, mainly of Piedmontese origin, with influences from the nearby region of Liguria, are re-engineered in a contemporary key, totally respecting the produce. Meticulously selected ingredients are enhanced by unusual pairings, with a particular focus on fish-based dishes including 'Shabu- Shabu of Salmon', or, 'Brill, leaks and chickpeas’. The same innovative philosophy is applied to the preparation of desserts, including the Del Cambio Spazio 7 Chef Marcello Trentini - Magorabin ‘Tirami-choux’, a re-interpretion of traditional

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Casa Vicina seamlessly with the strong personality of its chef, who draws inspiration for his creations from the dynamism of Rock’n Roll. Method, discipline, ROYAL CUISINE but also creativity and attention to detail, A visit to the Regge, a part of the historic and cultural heritage of the Savoy family especially presentation, are the ingredients of located just outside Turin, is also synonymous with fine dining. Over the past few years, Magorabin’s success, where the menu features both the Reggia di Venaria Reale and the Castello di Rivoli have enriched their offerings dishes of local inspiration and flavours, alongside with the launch of two restaurants, Dolce Stil Novo and Combal.zero, where you can flavours and ingredients from far-off countries. enjoy the best of contemporary Piedmontese tradition. The former, located on the top Highlights include ‘Tongue / Prawns / Tangerine, floor of the palace, above the Galleria di Diana, and helmed by chef Alfredo Russo, 'Risotto & Pigeon', 'Tandoori Pigeon’ or ‘Uno offers a cuisine based on respect for the past and an ongoing search for simplicity, Sgombro indeciso tra Saor e Scapece’, the stars to highlight the outstanding quality of the produce. Some examples? Alfredo Russo of three tasting menus. There’s also a social ‘Vegetable Soup’ featuring 18+ seasonal vegetable, ‘Black cod with Riviera olives and table for guests in search of a more exclusive cauliflower mayonnaise’ and ‘Dolce Stil Novo Bollito misto’ (mixed boiled meats), experience. The table, located in front of the enhanced by unexpected pairings (www.dolcestilnovo.com). According to legend, and kitchen, is designed to seat a maximum of eight Alternatively, at Combal.zero, a restaurant situated next to Castello di Rivoli’s customers, who are then able to interact with Contemporary Art Museum, where it mirrors the modern, minimalist architecture together with Prague and Lyon, the chefs at work. The wine list also features in a striking glass and wrought iron pavilion, chef Davide Scabin combines a solid Turin is part of a triangle of vintages with a strong personality, including knowledge of tradition with innovative dishes and cooking techniques. His philosophy white magic, and of black magic classics and wines from small producers in of cuisine is expressed to perfection in a tasting menu named ‘Viaggio verso atavica’, SHOPS AND BOOKSHOPS Piedmont, Italy and France. where more complex, conceptual dishes, including his famous ‘Cervo a Bangkok’, are with London and San Francisco. ‘heart of darkness’, and allows you to immerse DEDICATED TO ESOTERICISM Marcello Trentini’s attention to the world of wine served first, followed later by lighter offerings like ‘Baccarat artichokes and marinated As a result, it finds itself in the yourself in the darker side of this city of two and mixology finds its maximum expression at tuna’ (www.combal.org). souls (www.getyourguide.it). > Esotericamente offers a wide assortment the nearby Casa Mago cocktail bar (see p.38), the midst of an ongoing struggle The Torino Magica® Tour also takes you of ritualistic objects, talismans, tarot cards ideal spot for a post-prandial drink or a gourmet between positive and negative along a fascinating route amongst sinister and cards from all over the world, incense, aperitivo (www.magorabin.com). forces and, according to experts, architecture, esoteric symbols, dragons and crystals and everything required for We end our taste tour at Vintage 1997, alchemic caves. The tour ends with a sighting of ritualistic practices. The bookstore is large a restaurant that, as its name suggests, is is crisscrossed by powerful a veiled woman holding the chalice of the Holy and well-stocked. www.esotericamente.it distinguished by its old-world atmosphere force fields. (C.Z.) Grail (see photo). This statue, which stands in > Arethusa. At Italy’s oldest occult and love of tradition, which is also reflected front of the Church of Gran Madre di Dio, shows bookshop, established in 1948, you can find in its menu. Unlike the trends that distinguish urin is a city of mystery, magic and legend. the woman holding a chalice in her left hand, a comprehensive selection of publications the majority of today’s contemporary fine- Its ‘magical’ significance is attributed to a symbol that represents the presence of the dedicated to spiritual, mysterious or esoteric dining establishments, Vintage 1997’s strong T its geographical position, along the 45th Holy Grail in Turin (somewhere.it – subjects, plus a wide range of tarot cards, point is its menu based on the great classics parallel, where the Po and Dora rivers meet. www.musement.com). pendulums, crystal balls, Tibetan Mala, of Piedmontese cuisine, with specialties that More importantly, it creates the vertices of two A slightly different take on the subject is the runes and incense. arethusalibreria.com include ‘Vitello tonnato alla vecchia maniera, triangles, a triangle of white magic and a triangle Torino Noir tour. This evening walking tour al rosso d'ovo,’ 'Tajarin con burro e parmigiano of black magic. It would appear that numerous allows you to delve into the darker side of > Libreria Editrice Psiche publishes delle vacche bianche modenesi’ and ‘Agnolotti points of the Piedmont capital, highlighted by the city by visiting the ancient Church of the and sells works related to medicine, di gallina con profumi dell'orto, aglio’, skillfully esoteric and Masonic symbols, are crisscrossed Misericordia, and the underground prisons of naturopathy, psychology, spirituality, prepared by chef Pierluigi Consonni. by mysterious force fields. the oldest court in the city, led by a guide who sophism, Buddhism, Taoism and In addition to regional tasting menus, the This is why the city offers tourists numerous will enthrall you with stories about criminals, the numerology at its namesake bookstore. restaurant serves vegetarian options and a tours to discover these places. These include plague and the sinister practices of witchcraft Meetings, courses and themed seminars are also organized here. selection of revisited southern Italian dishes, Combal.zero Dolce Stil Novo Torino Occulta, a tour dedicated to black magic that took place in the Quadrilatero Romano including fish-based specialties and homemade and the occult arts. The two and a half hour tour (www.getyourguide.it). All tours are available in www.libreriaeditricepsiche.info pasta (vintage1997.com). starts from Piazza Statuto, considered the city’s English, or other foreign languages on request.

16 WHERE TURIN I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 17 WHERE NOW | AROUND THE CORNER The Regge Sabaude

In addition to offering an overview of olden-day court life, the Regge Sabaude testify to the modern history of Piedmont and Italy. BY GIULIA MINERO

he royal residences are easily the era, including Amedeo di Castellamonte, Piazza Castello. In addition to being used for accessible by bus or car from Turin, Michelangelo Garove and lastly Filippo long hunting expeditions in the company of T and are among some of the best- Juvarra, who designed many of its most members of the local aristocracy, Stupinigi preserved examples of 17th and 18th beautiful and widely photographed spaces, was often chosen by members of the century European architecture. They are a including the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of Savoy household for celebrations and living testimony to the prestige of the local Saint Hubert and the imposing 18th-century dynastic weddings. monarchy, the Savoy family, the first kings complexes of the Juvarra Stables and the At the beginning of the 20th century, Queen of unified Italy. In addition to Castello del Citroniera (Orangerie), now used to host Margherita of Savoy took up permanent Valentino and Villa della Regina (see Top in exhibitions and events. residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became Town), the favourite city-based residences Inside the Reggia di Venaria Reale, multimedia the headquarters of the Furniture of duchesses and princesses, and the installations enable visitors to reconstruct Museum, and a space for events fortress of Castello di Moncalieri, the Regge the history of court life, while the apartments and concerts. Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi MARY416/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Sabaude complex, listed as a UNESCO World of King Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoy and In addition to its original furnishings and © Heritage site in 1997, includes hunting his wife Rosa Vercellana, remodelled in the paintings, the museum hosts several into an aristocratic residence, and enlarged lodges and country residences, embellished adjacent Castello della Mandria, are open for masterpieces of cabinetry. with the addition of a wing known as with gardens that reflect the sophistication of public viewing, as is the room hosting the The lodge’s beautifully manicured French the Manica Lunga, with the ducal courtly life. collection of royal jewels. On the last floor of gardens and internal spaces are open for picture gallery. Its imposing spaces are the palace, above the monumental corridor public viewing, while its historic park, a part now the headquarters of a Museum of REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE known as the Galleria di Diana, discerning of the hunting reserve, is closed to the Contemporary Art, which also hosts Located inside the Park of La Mandria, diners can enjoy a delightful meal at the public. www.ordinemauriziano.it temporary exhibitions. in the historic centre of the town of Venaria, Dolce Stil Novo alla Reggia, the Reggia’s The courtyard of the castle is also home the Reggia di Venaria Reale is a Baroque-style Michelin-starred restaurant. www.lavenaria.it CASTELLO DI RIVOLI to Combal.Zero, a contemporary starred complex built in the mid-17th century as a Established as a military fortress in 1247, the restaurant whose panoramic glass walls offer glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI Rivoli Castle was the first residence of the glorious views across the countryside as well II. Its present-day appearance is the result Stupinigi was built in Baroque style in 1729, Savoy duchy. as the surrounding castle. of work by several prominent architects of and is only 10km as the crow flies from During the 17th century, it was converted www.castellodirivoli.org

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ©

Reggia di Venaria Reale CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM PIO3/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ©

Reggia di Venaria Reale © Chapel of Saint Hubert Castello di Rivoli (Manica Lunga) Castello di Rivoli OLGYSHA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ©

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This month is the perfect time ome of the highest peaks in Europe, ski area in western Italy that extends from as the ‘Olympic Valleys’, became one of the an altitude of 1,350 meters, to Cima Motta in developed in the 1930s by FIAT founder Gianni to discover the alpine resorts snow, unspoilt landscapes and Sauze d’ (Salice d’Ulzio in Italian) to the most sought-after tourist destinations in the Sestriere (2,800 meters). The latter are a delight Agnelli as a holiday resort for FIAT’s factory that have made Piedmont Sbreathtaking views. A combination French town of Montgenèvre. This includes world, renowned for its offer of entertainment for expert skiers and snowboarders in search workers, you can skate from dawn till dusk at the that makes Piedmont the perfect region for the towns of Sestriere, San Sicario, Clavière, and activities. of an adrenaline-filled experience. The area’s Emanuele Nasi Ice Stadium (T: 0122 755444). one of Italy’s most attractive a winter holiday. This doesn’t just apply to Cesana Torinese and , as far as the So how do you choose where to spend the gentle slopes also make it an ideal destination After an active day on the slopes, indulge in destinations. Turin, where in between a cultural break or neighbouring French border. weekend? It’s simple, and based on the motto for those who have decided to embark on their a moment’s relaxation at one of the local a moment’s shopping you can indulge in a A favourite hangout of the Torinese for a ‘tell me what sport you love and I’ll tell you snow christening. Each resort offers top-notch Spas. Almost all hotels have jacuzzis, indoor BY GIULIA MINERO rejuvenating break with a cup of hot chocolate, weekend dedicated to sport and relaxation, which destination best suits your needs’. This is schools specializing in skiing, snowboarding, swimming pools, saunas and Turkish baths that but also the string of ski villages located only a charming out-of-town destination for tourists a detail that should not be underestimated by sleighing, bobsleighing and freestyle lessons combine the beneficial effects of hydrotherapy a two-hour drive from the city. As the name who want to spend a few days in the open those who are paralyzed by choice. Multi-resort with qualified instructors and confidence- with a relaxing Alpine ambience. One such of the region suggests (‘Piedmont’, ‘at the foot air either before or after visiting Turin, and a or season ski passes allow you to move freely boosting slopes offering beginners a safe, example is the Hotel la Torre in Sauze d’Oulx, of the mountains’), the area’s allure and winter paradise for winter sports, this must-visit area from one resort in the area to another without gentle introduction to snow sports. which offers outside guests the option of attractions are inextricably linked to offers world-class facilities. These include more paying additional fees (www.vialattea.it). When it comes to a great ski weekend, having accessing its Spa area, where they can enjoy its mountains. than 400km of slopes dedicated to the most These include Pragelato, where two dedicated the right gear is key. If you don’t have your own massages and ad hoc treatments diverse sports including Alpine skiing, freestyle slopes allow people of all ages and ability equipment, you can either purchase it from one (www.grandhotellatorre.it). THE ‘’, skiing, Skeleton, Nordic skiing, Bobsleigh, levels to indulge in sleighing and Bobsleighing, of the numerous sports shops lining the main A PARADISE OF WINTER SPORTS sleighing and Biathlon. However, the turning semi-flat areas like in Clavière, where you can streets of each town, or hire it on-site for CHALET DE CHARME, When visiting Piedmont, you can’t think about point came when the city played host to the try your hand at cross-country skiing or one or two days. There’s also good news for FOR LOVERS OF TASTE its mountains without immediately reflecting . As a result of the snowshoeing, valleys boasting the area’s ice-skating enthusiasts. In the shadow of the Thanks to its stunning scenery, exquisite on the ‘Via Lattea’ (or ‘Milky Way’), the largest winter games, this area of the Alps, now known steepest ski slopes – from Cesana, located at high towers dominating the skyline of Sestriere, cuisine and burgeoning cultural scene, it is

20 WHERE TURIN I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 21 WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

not surprising that the region of Piedmont was ▶ MONCLER named one of the Italian regions best-loved This suede ‘Harriet boot’ with by international visitors in 2018 by ‘Lonely fur lining, a hiking outsole Planet’, one of the world’s biggest guide book and rubberized leather inserts publishers. One of the reasons for its success GIFT brings to mind alpine gear, but is its wealth of local gastronomic offerings, a adapts perfectly to an urban great way to recharge your batteries between style. Once again Moncler wins one downhill run and another, or as an ‘après a prize for style with this best- ski’ treat at the end of the day. Lovers of good GUIDE seller. www.moncler.com food in search of a break – or even a few days’ retreat – in a charming location at the edge of a wood that can only be accessed We’ve compiled a short on skis or a snowmobile will find what they’re guide offering ideas for looking for at Chalet Il Capricorno. This 4-star him and for her. A great hotel resembling a mountain chalet, directly

Chalet Raggio di Sole BERNARDI DAVIDE opportunity to spend some overlooking the slopes of Sauze d’Oulx, has only © ◄ ITALIA INDEPENDENT eight rooms, and a gourmet menu featuring pleasant moments browsing Sporty, unisex sunglasses a combination of local flavours and seasonal surroundings enhanced by an indoor fireplace of plants, flowers and mountain fauna. Here, the boutiques in the centre featuring a dynamic, eye-catching ingredients, served in a welcoming stone and (www.lasttango.it). Alpine Ibex, roe deer and marmots wander of Turin, while enjoying the design. The ‘BBC001’ model has wood setting (www.chaletilcapricorno.it). In ski Les Icles is an intimate family-run restaurant, around undisturbed, allowing visitors to view a lightweight frame, combined resorts, a cocktail, known as an ‘après ski’, is a located in Cesana Torinese, which offers diners them close-up, while walking through the discreet, elegant charm of with rubber nose pads and great way to relax and toast your day on the hearty home-cooked cuisine comprising park or climbing its rock faces. Other options the Piedmontese capital. temple tips, to guarantee a pistes. A favourite haunt of locals and visitors in freshly sourced seasonal vegetables, Piedmont also include a visit to the elegant town of perfect fit. The uncaged shield search of a relaxing break after a long day’s skiing Fassona beef dishes, and homemade pasta and Courmayeur, in the region of Valle d’Aosta. lens provides a clear field of vision. is Chalet Raggio di Sole. Located in the area desserts made with organic flour. An absolute This is a favourite destination for winter sports, italiaindependent.it of Sestriere’s amphitheatre, it’s a great place to must for foodies in search of authentic old- luxury shopping, top-notch cuisine, and the enjoy a platter of charcuterie and local cheeses world Piedmontese flavours (www.lesicles.it). nearby Pré-Saint-Didier Spa and wellness accompanied by a good glass of wine (official centre (www.qcterme.com/pre-saint-didier). Facebook: @raggiodi.solesestriere). Always JUST A LITTLE FURTHER ON... The area was recently enhanced by several in Sestriere, Last Tango Grill Restaurant, Winter sports enthusiasts who have a few new facilities, including the amazing Skyway one of the town’s oldest restaurants, delights days to spare and are keen to explore the area Monte Bianco cable car, a feat of Italian ASPESI ▶ diners’ palates both at lunch and dinner with outside the surroundings of Turin should head engineering that enables visitors to ascend to Every season, Aspesi, one of Italy’s a selection of Alpine specialties, including to the border between Piedmont and the the Helbronner Peak (3,466 m), a breathtaking classic brands known for its casual cured wild game like Deer Bresaola, Lamb Valle d’Aosta, in the spectacular Alpine spot located on the summit of Mont Blanc, apparel and sportswear, proposes Speck, Goose salami, Wild Boar Ham with setting of the Parco del Gran Paradiso. whose panoramic terrace offers visitors a a new interpretation of its iconic Caramelized Onions or traditional hot dishes, This protected area is an ideal destination for spectacular 360-degree view of the surrounding models. These cashmere hat and that can be savoured in the locale’s warm, cozy nature lovers, offering an enormous variety Alps (www.montebianco.com). gloves with ribbed cuffs are ideal to ward off the cold. www.aspesi.com

Via Lattea - Monte Fraiteve

▲ CALVIN KLEIN ◄ GUIDO GOBINO Designed with comfort and The best whole IGP Piedmont style in mind, this women’s hazelnuts coated in exquisite water-repellent windbreaker Gianduja, Extra Bitter Blend, Fine is made with mixed techno Milk or White chocolate can be fabrics. Available in two colours: enjoyed in three original formats: high risk red and night sky. ‘Foglio’ (1 kg), ‘Minifoglio’ (250 gr) www.calvinklein.it and ‘Cit’ (150 gr). Gluten free. guidogobino.it GIANCARLO GABBRIELLI ©

22 WHERE TURIN I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 23 [ DAILY TOURS ] Fashion outlets

Located in Piedmont, just a short distance from Turin, don’t miss a trip to these shopping destinations offering year-round discounts. LUGANO MENDRISIO BERGAMO BRESCIA Vicolungo NOVARA The Style Outlets TRIESTE ? MILANO Torino ? Outlet Village TORINO ALESSANDRIA ? PIACENZA Torino Outlet Village Vicolungo The Style Outlets BOLOGNA MAR ? GENOVASerravalle ADRIATICO Designer Outlet Mondovicino Outlet Village TH APPNNINI MOUNTAIN RIDG RIMINI ? The Mall Sanremo PISA VENTIMIGLIA FIRENZE MAR LIGURE LIVORNO ANCONA SIENA Serravalle Designer Outlet Mondovicino Outlet Village

PERUGIA TORINO OUTLET VILLAGE VICOLUNGO SERRAVALLE MONDOVICINO With over 90 stores of top Italian THE STYLE OUTLETS DESIGNER OUTLET OUTLET VILLAGE and international brands, as well Situated 40 minutes from Located just 90 minutes from Situated one hour from Turin, Turin, this is the ideal place to Turin, McArthurGlen Serravalle in the province of Cuneo, as a selection of carefully selected PESCARA eateries, guest services, and CORSICAspend a stylish day out where is the largest Designer Outlet in Mondovicino Outlet Village offers amenities for families, this is an shopping, entertainment and Europe. The centre’s beautiful a unique shopping experience, elegant, relaxing place. Open daily, relaxation combine to satisfy all setting combines all the appeal of where you can find beautiful 10am-8pm (Sat, Sun and public requirements. Open 7 days a week luxury designerROMA brands with the surroundings and appealing holidays 10am-9pm). from 10 am to 8 pm. beauties of the surrounding area. fashion brands. Open daily, from • WHERE: located in Settimo • WHERE: take the A4MAR Torino- TIRRENO• WHERE: accessible via the A21 10 am to 8 pm. Torinese, just 15 minutes from the Milano motorway and exit at and A26 motorways (Novi Ligure • WHERE: take the A6 Torino- centre of Turin, 30 minutes from Biandrate Vicolungo. A daily shuttle exit). A convenient shuttle bus Savona motorway and exit at NAPOLI the main cities in Piedmont and 75 service, departing at 10am from service departs daily (9am to Mondovì. A free shuttle service, minutes from Milan, near the exits Turin – Piazza Carlo Felice, 63 (in 8.20pm) from the railway stations departing from Turin (Corso from the A4 and A5 motorways, front of the Porta Nuova train of Arquata Scrivia, Serravalle Vittorio Emanuele II corner of via the Outlet is easily accessible by station) is available from Milan. For Scrivia and Novi Ligure. Sacchi) at 9.15am, and returning car. The outlet provides a daily information and reservations: 02 • WHAT: a go-to destination to the designated pick-up point shuttle bus service from the SARDEGNA867131 www.zaniviaggi.it. featuring 300 of your favourite in the city at 4.50pm, is available. city centre and a weekly service • WHAT: 150 prestigious designer designer brands including Gucci, For info and reservations: 011 from the main tourist resorts in stores, including Armani, Missoni, Dolce&Gabbana, Hugo Boss, 19704670 www.zalunviaggi.com. Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta. Trussardi, Tommy Hilfiger, Cavalli, Bluemarine, Versace, La Perla, • WHAT: over 90 prestigious • WHAT: a must for shopping Calvin Klein and Twin Set, offering Pollini, Roberto Cavalli, Brooks designer stores – including a lovers, it boasts 90 stores of top apparel for the whole family, Brothers, Fratelli Rossetti and Adidas, Alviero Martini 1 Classe, brands (Armani, Coach, Gucci, sportswear, homeware and Casadei, at up to 30-70% less year- Enrico Coveri, Fratelli Rossetti, La Perla, Michael Kors, Guess, beauty products at discounted round. Multiple customer services, Kappa and Liu.Jo Uomo with Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger and prices of up to 70% year-round. including free Wi-Fi, multilingual a selection of apparel for men, more) specializing in apparel, • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: Vicolungo staff, a children’s playground, as women and children, plus accessories, footwear, homeware, Vicolungo The Style Outlets also well as cafés and restaurants, sportswear, homeware and sports gear and personal care, with hosts art exhibitions, events and make for a unique shopping beauty products at discounted year-round discounts of up to 70%. other initiatives for an entertaining experience at unbelievable prices! prices of up to 70% year round. www.torinooutletvillage.com day’s outing. www.thestyleoutlets.it McArthurGlen.it/Serravalle www.mondovicino.it

24 WHERE TURIN I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 25 SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN ACCESSORIES Ombrellificio Torinese W The Guidelines M Located in the ancient Barriera di Milano district, this H E O Atelier Nina Tauro artisanal workshop has created bespoke umbrellas R C MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold E . T E R Established in 2006 in the vibrant San Salvario since 1931. In his shop, Carlo, the fifth generation R A V E L at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street map (pages 46-47). district, this workshop produces a variety of hat of the founding family, makes numerous models, styles, including unique, handmade models in sewing the rib tips by hand and assembling the SHOPPING fabric, felt, leather and crochet. All materials are multi-coloured fabrics and materials. Customers This directory, grouped by category, is a list of carefully selected, with a particular focus on quality. can personalize their own umbrellas, choosing from establishments recommended by the editors of Inserts and details, including flowers, buckles, lace different fabrics, embroidery, shafts and edgings. Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. and trimmings, are prevalently vintage. In addition The handles in acacia or transparent resin can Based on statistical evidence, the most popular to winning the ‘Eccellenza Artigiana’ award from be filled with copper threads, shells, ribbons or luxury brands are grouped under the separate Piedmont in 2009, in 2010 the Atelier was awarded dried flowers… a real sartorial, tailor-made category “Top Brands”, which be found on page the Slow Fashion registered trademark by CNA Turin umbrella. Open Mon, Wed, Fri 9.30am-6pm; 28. Several unusual shops, stocking items and which guarantees 100% Made in Italy quality and Tues 9.30am-12noon/2pm-6pm; Thurs by rarities for collectors or aficionados in specific workmanship. The Atelier also creates made-to-order appointment only; Sat 8am-12noon. product categories, are listed under “Passion hats for brides and special occasions. Open Tues-Sat www.ombrelli.it. Via Sesia, 23/b. T: 011 852104. Shopping” rather than in the standard shopping 11am-1pm/4pm-8pm. Via S. Anselmo, 26/C. Off Map Off Map sections. Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Turin) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

TAX-FREE SHOPPING » By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

DINING Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / Shopping at Vicolungo Kristina Ti: chic and strong €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. ENTERTAINMENT is even more advantageous! Kristina Ti’s store, located in the heart of Turin, transports customers into a world of exquisitely feminine Several venues offering food are included in this The Fall/Winter sales at Vicolungo The Style Outlets offer even more bang for your buck! dresses, delicate floral prints and diaphanous lingerie. By Chiara Zaccarelli section. These are considered as meeting places With its 150 boutiques and more than 300 Italian and international brands, the centre rather than gourmet addresses and thus explain offers to visitors an unmissable shopping experience. In addition to high-end clothing, the our decision to list them here rather than under outlet is an excellent destination for accessories, homeware and cosmetics. And with the “Dining”. ristina Tardito, a native of Turin, and is deliberately minimalist to highlight the brand’s sales, from 4 January to 23 February, additional savings of up to 70% on the outlet price

the designer and CEO of the Kristina Ti, collections. Here, you’ll find the Kristina Ti’s Fall/ SIGHTSEEING will enable you to bag bargains from the best brands at just a fraction of the price. Cskillfully combines Savoy sobriety with Winter 2019/2020 collection, evocatively named Several places like the Musei Reali or the The centre offers a vast array of active wear, stylish sportswear and must-have gear from a cosmopolitan, creative spirit and a love of ‘Aria d’inverno’, featuring wool enriched and Museo Egizio are symbols of Turin, hence our leading brands like Colmar, The North Face, Napapijri, Salomon, Timberland, Kappa, decision to describe them in special boxes. details. Her collections, though feminine, are illuminated by lurex, soft, eye-catching de- Dolomite, Quiksilver, Odlo and Under Armour. At the centre’s specialized boutiques, you The information provided on museums and infused with personality and enriched with small, structured outerwear, and lace details designed monuments is verified as meticulously as can gear-up to practice your favourite winter sport. unusual details, with a predilection for fresh, light, to enhance the linearity of silk garments. possible. However, data such as telephone Located just 40 minutes from Turin, Vicolungo The Style Outlets is easily reachable by diaphanous fabrics, often interpreted in short Colours are strong, at times, almost fluorescent. numbers, opening hours, prices and the car (A4 Motorway, Biandrate-Vicolungo exit). It is also connected to the city centre by a dresses, featuring floral prints, small patterns A minimalist, personality-filled wardrobe that accessibility of sites are all subject to change, comfortable shuttle service which departs on Saturdays and Sundays at 10.00am from on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration in pastel colours and linear shapes. Kristina Ti’s abandons the typical layering of winter weights Piazza Carlo Felice, in front of the Porta Nuova station. work, museum loans or changes hallmark features include colours and prints and lengths to focus on a few, beautifully of management. Ask your concierge. Between one purchase and another, you can indulge in a well-deserved break by ordering inspired by nature, flowers and insects. balanced pieces. something warm from one of the centre’s numerous bars and restaurants. Additionally, All details are correct at the time of going to Spread over 112 sq.m., her Turin-based flagship oress but several details can change: ask your Vicolungo The Style Outlets offers numerous services including tax-free shopping, free Wi- store is located in the heart of the city, and boasts >> www.kristinati.it concierge to double-check all information. Fi and IAT tourist information. three window displays. The store’s modern interior, Via Maria Vittoria, 18. For more information visit http://vicolungo.thestyleoutlets.it decorated in different shades of white, T: 011 837170. Map H5

26 WHERE TURIN I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 27 [ FASHION DESIGNERS ] [ RINASCENTE] Top Brands One-stop shop

GUCCI—www.gucci.com Open daily 10am- SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com A stroll through the streets 7.30pm. Via Roma, 112. T: 011 4546632. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 335. T: of the centre, amidst elegant Map F4 011 535345. Map E5 • Open Mon 3.30pm- royal porticoes (that extend 7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1pm/3.30pm- HERMÈS—www.hermes.com Open Mon-Sat 7.30pm. Corso Racconigi, 32 bis. for 18km across the city), and 10.15am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via Roma, 124. T: T: 011 3852651. Off Map squares embellished with 011 546971. Map F4 sumptuous architecture, is a WOLFORD—www.wolford.it ITALIA INDEPENDENT— Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10am- unique opportunity to soak www.italiaindependent.com 1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Thus-Sat 10am- up the city’s authentic charm. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 7.30pm; Sun 3.30pm-7pm. Via A. Doria, 6. 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. T: 011 531348. Map F5 It’s also a great destination for Via G.L. Lagrange, 31. T: 011 19885704.

shopping enthusiasts. In the Map F5 heart of the city, often referred L’AUTRE CHOSE—www.lautrechose.com to as ‘little Paris’, you’ll find Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am- the best fashion brands. In 7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 20/A. particular, the austere and T: 011 19468000. Map F5

elegant via Roma and the LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com parallel via Lagrange, do Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 320. justice to the exquisite Italian T: 011 5620678. Map E5 The best shopping and international fashions on MARINA RINALDI—it.marinarinaldi.com display. Alternately, a reference Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. point for young, trendy Via Roma, 314. T: 011 5187050. Map E5 in Turin fashion is via Garibaldi – one MAX & CO.—it.maxandco.com Head to Rinascente: located in the of the longest pedestrian Open Mon 11am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am- heart of the Savoy city, the store - streets in Europe – which 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 69. T: 011 541276. Map F4 now completely renovated - offers runs from Piazza Castello to new aesthetics and new spaces Piazza Statuto. The ideal place MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com for a unique shopping experience. for lovers of antiques and Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am- 7pm. Via Roma, 322. T: 011 5618172. vintage items is via Po, Map E5 which links Piazza Castello to Piazza Vittorio Veneto. MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 6c. T: 011 4782004. Map F4 The Rinascente department store in Turin has or Eleventy. On the second floor, visitors include Adidas Y3, All Star Converse, Nike, ASPESI— www.aspesi.com Open Mon completed a dynamic global restyling will find themselves immersed in a world of Premiata, Puma, Reebok, Superga and more. 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. MONCLER—www.moncler.com Open Mon-Sat process that has now provided the building contemporary fashion. Fans of denim will be The fourth floor is the kingdom of classic Galleria San Federico, 46. T: 011 5613577. 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2. with a new façade overlooking Via Lagrange spoilt for choice, thanks to iconic brands like ready-to-wear featuring the timeless allure Map F4 T: 011 5618744 Map F4 in order to optimise the retail space inside and Armani Exchange, Calvin Klein Jeans, Diesel, of the latest collections by Aspesi, Emporio BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com give the new Turin Rinascente store a more Levi’s and Tommy Jeans, accompanied by a Armani, Fabiana Filippi, Herno, Fay, Polo Ralph www.brunellocucinelli.com Open Mon-Sat Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. distinctive identity. Following the opening of selection of streetwear labels. Lauren, MaxMara Weekend and other brands 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 8. Via Roma, 104. T: 011 5187109. Map E5 the -1 floor dedicated to homeware, design Another groundbreaking addition is the renowned for their contemporary classic T: 011 4407207. Map F4 and food, now the ground floor hosts a new creation of an outdoor clothing area, where style. The floor’s 1,200 square metres also PRADA—www.prada.com Open Mon-Sat area devoted to accessories, jewelley and brands showcased include EA7, Napapijri host an area devoted to lingerie, in a visually CALVIN KLEIN—www.calvinklein.com 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma,342. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2/q. T: 011 3710203. sunglasses, a Beauty Hall, featuring high-end or The North Face. striking architectural display, infused with T: 011 5613226. Map F4 Map F4 makeup brands, and the new Temakinho The third floor presents contemporary a romantic mood; the collections include restaurant, where you can sample ready-to-wear, expressed to perfection for a items from Wolford, Paladini, Emporio Armani, CHANEL—www.chanel.com Open Mon-Sat ROBE DI KAPPA—www.robedikappa.com Japanese-Brazilian cuisine. complete day-to-night lifestyle look. The focal Henro, Calvin Klein, Chantelle and Lejaby. The 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via G. Garibaldi, The first floor instead acts as a showcase for point of the floor is a 250 square meter area children’s collections, featuring on-trend picks wwT: 011 5066699. Map F4 33. T: 011 19886532. Map F3 classic collections, with a focus on outerwear dedicated to footwear. Brands showcased by big-name brands complete the shopping GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani com SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— by brands including Emporio Armani, Fay include Casadei, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Marni, experience at the store. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza San Carlo, www.ferragamo.com CHANEL’s Haute Couture collection for this season, and Polo Ralph Lauren. The other side of the Sergio Rossi, Tod’s, Hogan, Tory Burch, Fratelli 145. T: 011 5627768. Map E5 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. designed by Virginie Viard, featured more youthful, floor hosts more contemporary offerings, with Rossetti, Michael Kors and numerous others. >> Rinascente Torino • Emporio Armani: Via Buozzi Bruno, 5. Via Roma, 108. T: 011 5625940. Map E5 lighter clothing targeted at a younger demographic, brands like Corneliani Collection and Hugo Lovers of a casual-chic look will be spoilt for www.rinascente.it - Open 7 days a week. T. 011 5625977. Map F4 like this diaphanous dress in pleated, draped chiffon. SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE IS KINDLY THIS PAGE Boss, or more relaxed options, including Aspesi choice when it comes to sneakers. Brands Via G.L. Lagrange, 15. T: 011 5170075.

28 WHERE TURIN I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 29 SHOPPING

Regina Kristina Ti Located in the picturesque piazza Gran Madre, this The standalone store of Torinese brand Kristina shop, selling handbags and accessories, will satisfy offers romantic, highly feminine collections your every whim, whether you’re lovers of Ash designed by Cristina Tardito. At this warm, biker boots, Golden Goose sneakers, Aquazzura welcoming space, located just a stone’s throw from Tax Free pumps, Castaner wedges or Stuart Weitzman’s piazza Castello, you’ll find clothing for free spirited, jeweled sandals. It also stocks a selection of independent women, who are not prepared Refund Guide bags, bijoux and auteur fragrances. www. to sacrifice a touch of seductive frivolity. www. reginashoes.it. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed kristinati.it Open Mon 3.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods 9am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm; Thurs-Fri 9am-7.30pm; Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Maria Vittoria, 18. T: 011 9.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via Villa della Regina, 837170. Map F4 and services, and is part of the European Union’s 3. T: 011 8193029. value added tax system. Map I6 SO San Lorenzo 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a An ideal destination for lovers of a chic, sought- VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services CLOTHING after style, this stand-alone store offers a selection of established and emerging brands including supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. MEN & WOMEN Loboutin, Azzedine Alaia, Isabel Marant and 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non-EU resident; Antonioli Giambattista Valli. Additionally, its homeware department features furnishing fabrics, unique • the goods purchased are intended for personal or This multi-brand boutique for men and women design pieces and a careful selection of tableware family use in located in piazza Carlina, one of the city’s only and are carried in your luggage; and furnishing accessories. www.sosanlorenzo. main squares. Antonioli stocks a mixture of • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds it. Open Mon3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am- unconventional, prestigious designer labels 154,94 Euro (VAT included); 7.30pm. Via Des Ambrois, 7. T: 011 883531. Map G5 including Rick Owens, Jil Sander, Anne • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice Demeulemeester, Maison Margiela and Gareth Top Ten should include a description of the goods purchased, Pugh. The choice of designer labels and the store’s Located in the highly central via Soleri, this your personal information as well as the details of interior decor are a reflection of Claudio Antonioli’s two-level space has been, since its inception, a your passport or any other equivalent document; personal style. His philosophy is based on blending reference point for the city’s elite. Its discreet, contemporary taste with alternative solutions in minimalist architectural style is reflected in its • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the a practical manner. www.antonioli.eu. Open Mon meticulous, well-defined choice of brands, ranging third month after the month that you bought them; 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 11am-7.30pm. Piazza from the avant-garde to the most prestigious • several specific customs formalities are Carlo Emanuele II, 19. T: 011 883253. international brands like Comme des Garçons, complied with; Map G5 Junya and Watanabe, to mention but a few. Mon • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Soleri, Boggi Milano within four months after the purchase was made. 2. T: 011 535360. Map E5 Men’s fashion is a perfect blend of stylistic research 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must and high-quality fabrics, offering clients a product Verdelilla be shown at the customs exit point when leaving that’s excellent value for money. www.boggi.com. Tucked away in a beautiful courtyard in Corso Re EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items Via XX Settembre, 11/c. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Umberto, this alluring space houses a selection into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs Tues- Sat 10am-7.30pm. Map E5 * Stazione Porta of coveted French and Japanese brands, by BEFORE checking in Nuova - Via Nizza. Open Mon-Sun 8am-9pm. T: 011 designers like Tsumori Chisato, Jerome Dreyfuss ). 5 622017. Map E6 and Jamin Puech, and also showcases the creations 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the Caramello of emerging brands. Amidst fashion, accessories, bijoux, perfumes and cosmetics, this must-visit customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice Located in the centre of Turin, this large showroom boutique exudes an atmosphere of innovative offers a wide selection of men and women’s must be returned within four months from the date taste, relaxed elegance and low-key femininity. fashions. The assortment ranges from Elisabetta when the document was issued. www.verdelilla.it. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Corso Franchi’s feminine, contemporary collections to 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian Re Umberto, 27. sartorial men’s brand Tagliatore, from Dondup, T: 011 5172701. Map D6 retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve the queen of Made-in-Italy denim, to Patrizia Pepe chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax and Manuel Ritz. Caramello also has an outlet in Free” sign in its window). the Crocetta district, showcasing last season’s DEPARTMENT STORE 7. Tax-Free companies are able to offer collections at affordable prices. caramellostore. Several Rinascente it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10.30am- immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods Italy’s most prestigious temple of high-end 7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. Corso G. Ferraris, 2. T: leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating shopping is located in the city’s highly central via 011 5175090. Map D3 Lagrange. This department store offers the best the passenger from having to return the invoice to in fashion for men, women and children, alongside the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at a selection of accessories, design, homeware and major international airports or main border crossings. beauty by the best Italian and international brands. Most major department stores have Tax Free At its food market, you’ll find the best gourmet Refund offices. Made-in-Italy foods, and a fabulous selection of 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply prestigious international products. Don’t miss the the payment of a small administrative sum which renewed floors: -1 (home-food-design), 3rd and 4th floors (women’s fashion). Open Mon-Fri 9.30am- is directly deducted from the amount of VAT 8pm; Sat 9.30am-8.30pm; Sun10am-8pm. Via G.L. refunded to the traveller. Lagrange, 15. T: 011 5170075. Map F5 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. Legendary and timeless, ‘CHANEL NO. 5’ exudes the 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded very essence of femininity. This eau de parfum has a floral directly by customs offices. bouquet, composed around May Rose and Jasmine, and is Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund showcased within an iconic bottle featuring minimalist lines.

30 WHERE TURIN I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 31 SHOPPING

JEWELLERY & WATCHES La Belle Histoire SHOES Located underneath the Mole Antonelliana, this Astrua 1860 retrò-style atelier, overlooking a picturesque Bottega Velasca ROLEX RETAILER Astrua 1860, one of the oldest courtyard, is a go-to destination for romantics who’ll Located in the Borgo Nuovo district, south-east watchmakers in Europe, is located in the heart find themselves surrounded by old suitcases, trunks, of the centre of Turin, this artisanal shoe (and of Turin, between the First Italian Parliament and wooden vintage furniture and brocade armchairs. accessories) store for men offers customers an the National Library. A key visitor attraction at the The store offers a selection of almost exclusively authentic Made in Italy experience. Renowned for entrance to the boutique is an elevator operated Made-in-Italy garments, with the exception of its craftsmanship and Italian excellence, Bottega with a visible gear mechanism reminiscent of French brand Lilith, Spanish brand Hoss Intropia Velasca offers a selection of classic, casual and those used in watches. At its historic store, and Japanese brand Takaaki. Other highlights formal footwear. Open Mon 4pm-8pm; Tues-Fri boasting an innovative, modern concept, Astrua include a collection of strictly Italian-made footwear 11am-3pm/4pm-8pm; Sat and Sun 11am-8pm. presents its contemporary jewelry creations, and a homeware line. www.labellehistoire.it. www.velasca.com. Via G. Mazzini 22/e. T: 02 exquisite leather goods and precious accessories. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1pm; 94755460 ([email protected]). In addition to several of the world’s most coveted 3.30pm-7.30pm; Thurs and Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Map G6 watch brands, including Rolex, Patek Philippe, Montebello 15/g.T: 011 8136199. Map H3 Jaeger-LeCoultre, Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, Hole Omega, Panerai, IWC, Hublot, Baume&Mercier, Les Coquettes This multi-brand store located in the heart of the Longines and Montblanc, Maison Astrua 1860 Housed in a 1920s Parisian-style apartment, amidst city sells high-quality footwear distinguished by stocks Murano glass by Venini, creations by Tudor, vintage hat stands, drawers filled with costume its original design. You’ll find a interesting mix luxury accessories, Edward Green footwear, jewelry, antiques and pink leather sofas, this of trendy brands here, including Ixos, Moma Amouage fragrances and Pasotti umbrellas. Open unusual, whimsical concept store, with a slightly and Strategia, alongside models by Italian and Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm- bohemian air, offers a selection of clothing, internal artisanal producers. Also sells bags and 7pm. www.astrua.com. Via Cesare Battisti, 15 delicious bijoux, cosmetics, candles, perfumes and accessories. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.15pm; Tues-Fri corner of Piazza Carlo Alberto. T: 011 5613873. furnishing accessories. www.lescoquettes.it. Open 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm-7.15pm; Sat 10.30am- Map F4 Tues-Sat 10.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via G. 12.30am/3.30pm-7pm. Via G. Botero, 11. T: 011 Barbaroux, 12/l. T: 011 531943. Map F3 5176602. Map E3 Rocca 1794 Rrriot shop

ROLEX RETAILER Master jewelers and Tucked away in the creative, multi-ethnic district Cribì watchmakers since the 18th century, Rocca rates of San Salvario, this shop, distinguished by its Established in 1996, and located in Turin’s highly among the first importers of luxury Swiss watches. minimalist decor, mixes men and women’s clothing central via Lagrange, Cribi is a multi-brand Rocca pays homage to fine watchmaking with a with vintage jewelry and accessories and young, store selling minimalist, alternative footwear selection of the world’s most prestigious brands creative brands. Thanks to ongoing research, Rrriot and clothing, featuring a combination of including Damiani, Rolex, Omega, Breitling, strives to offer its customers a range of products craftsmanship and experimentation to create Blancpain, Bucherer, Lange & Sohne, Longines, that are always different and innovative. Its aim is elegant, timeless lines. Best sellers include boots Ulysse Nardin, Salvini and Venini. Rocca is to introduce Turin to Northern European brands by Fiorentini+Baker, pumps by Del Carlo and acknowledged for its longstanding tradition of designed exclusively for the Italian market. www. original clothing by Malloni and Liviana Conti. professionalism and expert consultancy. Located rrriotshop.com. Tues-Fri 10.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm- www.cribibotique.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30 pm; in the shadow of the Mole Antonelliana, its 19.30pm; Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Berthollet, 25/a. Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via G.L. founder, Alberto Rocca, opened his first boutique T: 011 19500239. Map F7 Lagrange, 38. T: 011 5611348. Map F5 at the end of the 18th century. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm, Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.rocca1794.com. Via Roma, 290. T: 011 5621467/5629260. Map F4 LEATHER & LUGGAGE Maledetti Toscani This story began in 1848 in Montepulciano, Tuscany, when the great-great grandfather of the present owners opened a leather workshop. Today, although Maledetti Toscani owns shops in Europe, the USA and Canada, it continues to focus religiously on time-honoured Made-in-Italy craftsmanship. Hence, the creation of footwear, renowned for its delightfully aged appearance, crafted in only the finest leathers, dyed with tree tannins and enhanced with real leather soles, and hand woven, hand-stitched artisanal bags. www. maledettitoscani.com. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. Via P. Micca, 18. T: 011 5579134. Map E4 PASSION SHOPPING Culti House Torino At this small, charming boutique decorated in shades of ochre and sand, you’ll find the culture of Culti, designed to stimulate the senses in a mixture of design, art and fragrance. The space ROCCA 1794 houses all the brand’s collections of room and The historic Rocca Boutique is a prestigious, luxury destination and the only retailer in the home fragrances including diffusers, room sprays, city selling the world’s most desirable jewelry and watch brands. It comprises two floors, candles, cosmetics and scented pillows. www. four hundred square metres, nine brightly-lit shop windows and top name brands. culti.com. Open Tues-Sat 10.30am–2pm/3pm- www.rocca1794.com 7.30pm. Via C. Battisti, 3. T: 011 0361363. Map F4

32 WHERE TURIN I JANUARY 2020 DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN TRADITIONAL Food glossary PIEDMONTESE CUISINE From a gastronomic viewpoint, the region of Piedmont boasts some of Italy’s Cannavacciuolo Bistrot finest, most diverse traditional foods. It is therefore no surprise that the world- Located just steps from the Gran Madre, this Turin- famous ‘Slow Food’ association, an international, non-profit organization based bistro owned by multi-award winning Italian chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo, will not disappoint. committed to giving food back its proper value, was born here. It is also here The bistro offers guests a unique tasting experience that the Italian University of Gastronomic Sciences, the first, and possibly only, featuring a combination of northern and southern ‘university of taste’ in the world, was established. The amazing raw materials flavours. Highlights include Fassona beef tartare, offered by the Piedmontese region include meat, cheese, wine and truffles, and codfish with tomatoes, eggplant parmigiana ravioli are the basic ingredients used to create deliciously rich, tasty recipes. We’ve with a Provola cheese sauce and pigeon with blueberries and burrata (a fresh Italian buffalo milk compiled a list of several Made in Piedmont dishes that are absolute must-tastes. cheese made from mozzarella and cream). Open B Y C. Z. Mon 7pm-11pm; Tues-Sat 12.30pm-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€€. www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it/torino. Via U. Cosmo, 6. T: 011 8399893. Map I6 BAGNA CAUDA Casa Amelie This typical winter specialty consists of a sauce PIEDMONTESE GRAN BOLLITO MISTO A stone’s throw from the Quadrilatero Romano, made from garlic, extra virgin olive oil and This elaborate dish of mixed boiled meats is made and only a few months after opening, this small, anchovies, to which butter, milk and chopped from seven cuts of Piedmontese veal, including welcoming locale owned by Neapolitan chef nuts can also be added. Bagna Cauda is served the thigh muscle, shoulder and breast, and seven Guido Perino, was classified as one of the city’s top in a terracotta pot and used as a dip for raw ‘improvers’, tongue, musetto (a pork sausage ten restaurants at the Fork Restaurants Awards, or cooked seasonal vegetables. If, on the one made in part from a pig’s snout) and a game hen, sponsored by Identità Golose. The chef’s creative yet hand, it encourages conviviality, on the other, simple cuisine features a combination of classic and cooked for several hours in boiling water. It is exotic fare, premium-quality ingredients and seasonal especially if you’ve overdone the garlic, you accompanied by seven tasty sauces, and a side of products that will delight your taste might find people avoiding you because you vegetables. One of the favourite dishes of Camillo buds. Open Mon 7.30pm-10.30pm; Tues-Sat 12.30pm- reek of it! Benso, Count of Cavour, 2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€. and Vittorio Emanuele, Piedmont’s ‘bollito misto’ www.ristorantecasaamelie.com. even has its own brotherhood. Via Giulio, 4/b. T: 011 5211579. Map E2 Cianci Piola Caffè VITELLO TONNATO A real institution in Turin, this bustling ‘piola’ This classic ‘antipasto’ of Piedmont cuisine is made (a typical, laid-back Piedmontese tavern) offers from poaching the ‘girello’ cut of ‘Fassona’ veal (a authentic regional dishes at unbeatable prices. With prized Piemontese breed of veal) in a stock with tables spilling out onto the square in warmer months, aromatic herbs and white wine, sliced thinly and this delightful locale in the heart of the Quadrilatero Romano, serves Fassona beef tartare, ‘vitello tonnato’, served cold with a traditional sauce made from ‘tajerin’ (a thin version of tagliatelle), ‘agnolotti’ and tuna fish, egg yolks, capers, extra virgin olive oil, a vegetable-based Piedmontese antipasto which white wine, lemon juice, salt and pepper. includes tomatoes, anchovies and peppers in a sauce, accompanied by a great selection of wines. Open BONET 12.30pm-3.30pm/6.30pm-11pm. €€. Largo 4 Marzo, Bonet, pronounced bunet, is a soft, rich, 9/b, T: 388 8767003. Map F3 deliciously old-fashioned dessert that can be Buzzword: local, seasonal ingredients Consorzio eaten with a spoon. Bonet is made from sugar, In the heart of the quaint Quadrilatero Romano, eggs, milk, cocoa, rum and dry amaretti biscuits. Bagna Cauda Located in an early 20th century building, Opera delights diners’ palates with the traditional flavours of Piedmont, Consorzio offers traditional cuisine, sometimes TENNIS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

© An unusual feature of this recipe is that it’s baked re-imagined with a twist, featuring ‘Made-in in a Bain Marie in the oven. A Bain Marie, or hot created with a contemporary twist to highlight their ingredients. By Giulia Minero Piedmont’ ingredients including Piedmontese beef, Cervere leeks, the hunchback thistles of Nizza PIEDMONTESE MIXED FRY water bath, is a slow, natural culinary technique Monferrato and freshly picked, garden-grown This uniquely rich local specialty of Piedmont that is used to cook delicate foods, over a low he name ‘Opera’ is a song of praise to spread over two levels. The lower floor hosts combination of traditional flavours enhanced vegetables. A harmonious combination that pays consists of a combination of fried liver, lungs, temperature, using the steam the Bain Marie industriousness, meticulous detail, and a unique ‘royal table’ dedicated to social with more piquant, citrusy notes, giving the tribute to customers, chefs, breeders, farmers and brain, sweetbreads, liver veins, a slice of veal, creates. It preserves the softness of the dessert artisanal attention to every process. dining, designed to accommodate up to ten dishes a slightly Asian undertone. Signature wine growers. Its cheeses, sourced from the best sausage, sweet semolina, amaretti biscuits and and facilitates the formation of a delicious crust on T local producers, with a few forays into the rest of its surface. apples, accompanied by pan-fried carrots or This attention to detail distinguishes Stefano diners. In addition to an à la carte menu, the dishes include ‘Rabbit Kidneys in Broth with Italy, France or Britain for a taste of Stilton, deserve Sforza, the restaurant’s culinary offerings include Ginger and Mango’, ‘Spaghetti with Mint, Eel a separate mention. Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm- mixed vegetables. Not a dish for the faint-hearted. young, talented Executive Piedmontese tradition, two tasting menus and Pine Nuts, ‘Lobster with Passion Fruit, 2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; Sat 7.30pm-11pm. €€. Chef, who thanks to years dedicated respectively to Peas and Vanilla’, and ‘Pigeon with Fermented ristoranteconsorzio.it. Via Monte di Pietà, 23. T: 011 2767661. Map E3 of experience in several a blend of ingenuity traditional Piedmontese Apricots and Curry’. The leitmotif of all the AGNOLOTTI DEL PLIN prestigious restaurants, has and vegetarian cuisine, gastronomic offerings is the local origin of the È Cucina These small filled ‘pouches’ are made with a and creativity thin sheet of dough, stuffed with a filling of made the marriage between featuring dishes products, that are enhanced by an innovative This charming restaurant owned by theatrical Florentine chef Cesare Maretti features brightly braised meat (usually a mixture of beef, veal tradition and innovation, his comprised of just one cuisine, respectful of Piedmontese traditions, lit windows overlooking the street, contemporary or pork) and Swiss chard, dressed with the signature. ingredient, each cooked in a different accompanied by a highly select wine list. décor and an open-plan kitchen, now a popular pan juices of the braised meat, or butter and Opera’s elegant dining room, with an way, using different cooking methods and contemporary concept in Northern Italy. The chef’s sage. The name ‘plin’ derives from the regional open-plan kitchen, features remnants of its different textures. Guests can also indulge >> Opera underlying philosophy is based on the search dialect for ‘pinch’ because to form each for premium-quality ingredients with a particular past, including large arches, high vaulted in the more elaborate ‘Opera’ menu Via Sant’Antonio da Padova, 3 agnolotto you pinch the two sheets focus on organic fruit and vegetables (all dishes ceiling, open brickwork and fireplaces. The consisting of five courses that vary according T: 011 19507972. Map B4 of pasta together. are served with a side, at no additional charge) and CAZZANTI\ SHUTTERSTOCK.COM VALENTINO restaurant, owned by the Cometto family, is to the seasonal ingredients, and featuring a operatorino.it conviviality. In the evening, guests can choose from ©

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a meat, fish or vegetarian menu, accompanied by photographs. Its menu – don’t be misled by its name Oriental Daily by Kiki FOOD SHOPS homemade bread and focacce. Open Mon-Sun – features classic Piedmont cuisine including ‘vitello In addition to classic sushi, sashimi and tempura, 12.30pm-3am/8pm-11pm; Sun 12 noon-3pm. tonnato’, ‘agnolotti’, homemade pasta, braised meat, this fusion restaurant also serves spicy meat and Borgiattino €€. cesaremarretti.com. Via Bertola, 27/a. T: 011 ‘fritto misto’, ‘bolliti’ (boiled meats), ‘Finanziera’ (a fish curries, ramen, steaming noodles, Pad Thai, A reference point in Turin for lovers of traditional Pastry Shops 5629038. Map E3 hearty dish of veal offal and cockscomb cooked steamed ravioli, tartare, tataki and other creatives Piedmont cheeses, including Tome and Fontine with Marsala wine, vinegar and herbs) and, in winter The traditional age-old art of pastry making is deeply rooted in Turin, and the Filiberti-Vini e Fornelli dishes. Indulge your sweet tooth with one of the d’alpeggio, Robiola, Gorgonzola, Ormea and ‘bagna cauda’. Open daily 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm- venue’s original desserts including Azuki bean ice Castelmagno. Located in the heart of the city, this city’s confectionery is famous throughout the world. Sweet treats like ‘baci A small bistro in the Quadrilatero Romano, midnight. foodandcompany.com. €€€. Piazza Vittorio cream and sweet Chawanmush, an egg custard dish historic ‘bottega’ also offers specialties from other di dama’, marron glacés and ‘giandujotti’ were invented here and exported infused with a decidedly French atmosphere. Veneto, 2. T: 011 8173500. Map H5 filled with cherries and wild berries. Excellent value Italian and European regions including Reblochon The menu is divided into small tapas-style abroad, while others, which are more inherently Piedmontese, are well worth for money. Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7pm- from France and Cheddar from Britain, accompanied antipasti (referred to here as ‘minuterie’) Scannabue discovering. It’s therefore no surprise that the city is inundated with top-level 10.30pm; Sat 7pm-10.30pm. €€. www.orientaldaily.it. by wines and other high-quality artisanal products. including Bao buns topped with brisket and Located in the trendy San Salvario district, pastry shops. Although it’s impossible to mention them all, we’ve compiled a list Via Cesana, 72. T: 011 4470067. Off Map Open Mon-Sat 8.30am-1pm/4pm-7.30pm. barbecue sauce, codfish cheek with chard and Scannabue is extremely popular thanks to its borgiattino.com. Corso Vinzaglio, 29. T: 011 5629075. of several that are rated top in town. By Chiara Zaccarelli a meat consommé. Mains include pastrami or warm, laid back atmosphere and its traditional, Map C4 ‘plin’ re-interpreted in a Mediterranean version affordable cuisine, especially among the city’s PIZZA with Provola cheese, eggplant and tomatoes, young, hip crowd. In addition to classic regional A Casa di Pulcinella Eataly Torino Lingotto accompanied by an extensive wine list, including recipes, including rabbit tuna, beef tartare and CAFFÈ PLATTI An informal locale which, as its name suggests, Located in Turin’s Lingotto district, Eataly is a cult several natural varieties. Open Mon 7pm-11pm; classic starters, it also serves a variety of fish dishes. If you visit just one of Turin’s historic serves a fabulous Neapolitan pizza, accompanied by destination dedicated to Italian gastronomy, offering Tues-Thurs 12 noon-2.30pm/7pm-11pm; Fri- Its wine list features a great selection of Piedmont locales, then it has to be the illustrious, a wide selection of craft and other beers. Thanks to numerous gift ideas to satisfy every palate. Set in Sat 12noon-2.30pm/7pm-midnight. €€. www. labels including Arneis, Nebbiolo and Barbera. belle epoque Caffè Platti. Opened in a natural, slow-leavening process, the pizza dough a large converted factory, this 11,000-sq-metre filibertiviniefornelli.it. Piazza Emanuele Filiberto, It’s advisable to book ahead. Open daily 12.30pm- is light, tasty and easy to digest. Ingredients include emporium, houses a vast array of eateries, serving 1870, it soon became a social and cultural 6/a. T: 011 19173730. Map E2 2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€. scannabue.it. Largo the classics for which Neapolitan pizza is renowned traditional Italian and Piedmontese specialties. A reference point for 20th-century Turin. Saluzzo, 25/h. T: 011 6696693. Map E7 Le Vitel Etonné but also those of traditional Italian regional cuisine, go-to destination for a sweet or savoury breakfast, a Here, amidst mirrors, gilded stuccoes, The standout at this restaurant located in the Stefano Fanti al Circolo dei Lettori ranging from a Margherita topped with Bufala quick lunch, a tantalizing afternoon tea, a dinner at a inlaid walnut furniture and gold Louis XVI heart of the centre is ‘vitello tonnato’, one of the This unique restaurant is located at the Circolo dei Campana mozzarella to a version with Moncalieri pizzeria or a gourmet restaurant, without forgetting medallions, you can sample Piedmontese great classics of Piedmont cuisine, an absolute Lettori, in the city’s 17th century Palazzo Graneri sausage.Open Tues-Sat 12pm-3pm/6.30pm- Michelin-starred restaurant Casa Vicina (entrance specialties like ‘bunet’, Meliga pastries, must-try at its namesake restaurant. Other della Roccia. Formerly a private members club, the 10.30pm. €€. www.acasadipulcinella.it. Corso from via Nizza 224). Open daily 10am/10.30pm. ‘bignole’ and Platti cake. specialties include ‘tajerin’, a fresh pasta prepared Circolo dei Lettori was a meeting place for Turin’s Rosselli, 82. T: 011 595457. Off Map T: 011 19506801. www.eataly.net. Via Nizza, 230. Since 2017, the confectionery has been run Off Map according to a traditional recipe with 36 egg intellectuals, writers, poets and artists, seen in the Bakery Restaurant & Pizza by renowned patissier Guido Gobino, the yolks per kilo of flour, served with an array of rows of artist portraits that line the restaurant’s walls. Tucked away in a peaceful area of the city, not Gastronomia (La) king of Torinese chocolate. www.platti.it seasonal sauces, ‘tagliatelle’ with Bra sausage and Its traditional culinary offering is reinterpreted with far from the Porta Nuova station, this pizzeria/ VEGAN A vegan delicatessen where you Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 72. ‘agnolotti al plin’. The locale’s 19th century cellar, a contemporary twist by chef Stefano Fantini. For restaurants boasts a wood-fired oven that turns out can eat on-site, order take-aways, or even take featuring barrel vaults and open brick walls, hosts an overview of regional specialties, make sure to try T: 011 4546151. a slow-rising, Neapolitan-style pizza, featuring a cookery courses. Its dishes, all cooked with more than 300 labels. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am- its tasting menu and, if you’re feeling bold, opt for soft, crunchy dough and high-quality ingredients. meat-free ingredients, include Seitan, Russian midnight. €€€. www.leviteletonne.com. Via San the ‘Finanziera’. Open 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm- Diners can choose from among a variety of classic and Capricciosa salad and a strictly anchovy-free GHIGO Francesco da Paola, 4. T: 011 8124621. Map G4 10.30pm. €€€. www.circololettori.it/il-ristorante. toppings, with a few regional references including Piedmont green sauce for vegans who are fans This historic pastry shop, located just Via Bogino, 9. T: 011 4326828. Map G4 Plin & Tajarin sausage and ‘friarelli’ (broccoli rabe), or gorgonzola, of Piedmont specialties. The deli is located in via steps from the Mole, is famous for its hot This is small eatery resembling an artist’s studio pears and walnuts. Its well-stocked cellar boasts Dante Nenni, in the heart of Borgo San Paolo, Turin’s chocolate, served with freshly whipped rather than a restaurant. The kitchen turns out ETHNIC CUISINE a number of highly select labels from Italy’s historical, working class district. Open Mon-Thus cream and marrons glacés (a candied small masterpieces like ‘plin’ and ‘tajerin’, the Hafa Storie best wine producers. Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm- 10am-8pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Sat 9.30am-2.30pm. chestnut covered with a sugar glaze). At 2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; staples of Piedmont’s culinary tradition, which A Piedmont Moroccan restaurant. In Turin, this is gastronomiaveg.it. Via Dante di Nanni, 116. T: 011 Christmas, Ghigo excels with its famous Sat 7.30pm-11pm. €€. www.bakerytorino.it. are available with numerous fillings and sauces, fairly common because the city’s second largest 3828605. Off Map Via Avigliana, 47/a. T: 011 4337074. Map B3 ‘Nuvola di Ghigo’, a traditional ‘Pandoro’ and pear tarts. The venue is infused with a including vegan and vegetarian options. Before, foreign community is the Moroccan community, Làit e Formagg covered with a butter icing and a generous warm, homely Provence-style atmosphere after or as an accompaniment, diners can order and the restaurant is located in Porta Palazzo, the Crudo fa la Pizza! Located just steps from the centre, this small, sprinkling of icing sugar. meat from select Piedmont producers, delicious city’s multi-ethnic district par excellence. While the where, amidst cast iron teapots, French tin Crudo is an award-winning food company, boasting well-stocked shop sells Piedmontese and other www.pasticceriaghigo.it ‘focaccia’ made with stone-ground flour and Piedmontese offerings are created by Christian boxes, brightly-coloured cups and vintage two osterie and a bistro in the city, renowned for cheese specialties (Parmesan cheese, ricotta, aged traditional desserts, including amaretto ice Milone, a young, talented starred chef hailing from Via Po, 52/b. T: 011 887017. trays, you can purchase traditional Savoy their fresh high-quality ingredients, sourced from cheeses, ‘tomini’, ‘caprini’, herb-flavoured cheeses cream. Open Mon-Sat 12.45pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri Trattoria Zappatori in Pinerolo, the Moroccan dishes biscuits, flower-based preserves, Leone only the finest producers. It has now taken on the and more) which can be sampled with tantalizing 7.45pm-10.30pm. €€€. www.plinetajarin.it. Via G. are prepared by Aicha the cook. Between a seven- PASTICCERIA VENIER candies and fruit preserved in honey. Vegan challenge of making one of Italy’s best-loved dishes. sauces, high-quality charcuterie and other regional Casalis, 59. T: 011 3828128. Map B3 vegetable couscous and a braise with polenta, this Nineteen different versions of pizza take diners on a specialties including grissini, lingue di suocera (a Pasticceria Venier, located in the heart of options are also available. berlicabarbis.com restaurant lays the foundations for a harmonious, Porto di Savona culinary journey that encompasses the whole of the type of biscuit which translates literally as mother-in- the centre, is another go-to destination to Corso Moncalieri, 214. T: 011 2074508. productive cultural exchange. Open Tues-Fri One of the city’s oldest restaurants, Porto di peninsula, from Favignana with Siccagno tomatoes, law’s tongues) and other typical sweet treats, such start (or end) your day on a sweet note. It’s Via Catania, 10. T:011 231032 11am-3pm/5pm-12.30am; Sat 10am-12.30am; Sun Savona opened in 1863 when Turin was the capital anchovy fillets, Mediterranean tuna fillets, capers as Piedmontese biscuits and hazelnut cakes. From famous for its ‘marocchino’ (coffee served 11.30am-4.30pm. €€. hafastorie.it. Galleria Umberto and Sicilian olive oil to Aosta, with mozzarella, of Italy. The restaurant is on the city’s beautiful October to January, you’ll also find precious white in a small glass cup, with a dark chocolate FARMACIA DEL CAMBIO I, 10/13. T: 011 19486765. Map F2 Fontina d’Aosta Dop and hand-sliced artisanal ham. Piazza Vittorio, and the warm interior is laid out truffles from Alba. Open Mon 11am-2pm/4pm-8pm; base, topped with foamed milk and a A sophisticated Savoy-style ‘salotto’, like a 19th-century tavern, with Liberty-style Kay Essenza Peruviana & Piscobar Open daily 12 noon-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€. pizza. Tues-Sat 8am-2pm/4pm-8pm. www.alformaggi.it. Via crudotorino.com. Via Palazzo di Città, 7/d. T: 340 sprinkling of bitter cocoa powder), but also created in the rooms of an old apothecary decor, wooden Located in the Crocetta district, this top-level Madama Cristina, 18. T: 011 6699407. Off Map 2494060. Map F3 its ‘briosche’, including its custard-filled established in 1883, in the city’s beautiful boiserie, Peruvian restaurant is helmed by a team of young, ‘torciglione’ with a hint of lemon, and its piazza Carignano. Here, you’ll find a mirrors, 1940s knowledgeable staff. The menu embraces the Gusto Madre Pescheria Gallina furnishing Umbertino, a biscuit resembling a ‘bacio di fabulous assortment of pastries by chef traditional flavours of every region in Peru, from its Pizza is experiencing a renaissance. From a dish of Now run by the fourth generation, this historic accessories dama’ but with, a double layer of chocolate coast to its mountains, right up to the Amazonian the people to a gourmet specialty, interpreted with fishmonger located in Porta Palazzo’s piazza del Fabrizio Galla including Veneziane, and walls and two amaretti instead of shortcake. forests, interpreted with a gourmet twist. Signature numerous dough varieties, flours and ingredients. mercato has been in business for over a century. Sfogliatine, almond and orange cakes, decorated dishes include Fassona beef tartare with fried If you’re feeling overwhelmed by all these options, Its wonderfully fresh fish, mainly sourced from the Via Monte di Pietà, 22. T: 011 541592. bignès, ‘bonet’, fruit tartlets, millefeuille, with period marrow bone and spicy mayonnaise, marinated there are places, like Gusto Madre, that will remove Ligurian Sea, guaranteeing that it was caught just 24 hazelnut cakes and croissants. Also worth paintings and scallops and tapioca, ceviches and even a South any doubt. Ingredients bestowed by Mother Nature, hours earlier, can be eaten on-site. Customers can TORTERIA BERLICABARBIS mention are the locale’s savoury offerings choose their order directly from the counter or opt American interpretation of Piedmont’s classic processed to a minimum and combined with the In dialect, ‘Berlicabarbis’ means to ‘lick your which include sandwiches, savoury ‘bagnetto verde’ (green sauce), accompanied by a for its fixed-price menu, which include the catch of creativity and skill inherent in time-honoured dough- lips’. A particularly apt name for a pastry snacks, crusty bread, bagels and more. carefully selected choice of Piedmont wines. Open the day, focaccia, a glass of house wine and a bottle making techniques, are the reasons for the success shop that turns out approximately A great place for lunch or an aperitivo. Tues-Sat 12 noon-2.45pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sun 12 of this healthy, easy-to-digest, multi-award winning of water. Open Mon-Fri 07am-3pm; Sat 7.30am-5pm. noon-2.45pm. €€. kayessenzaperuvianapiscobar. www.pescheriagallina.com. 20 different cakes a day, including farmaciadelcambio.it. Kay Essenza pizza. Open from Wednesday to Monday. €€. www. business.site. Via E. Torricelli, 59. T: 011 5096002. gustomadre.it. Via G. Mazzini, 31/A T: 011 18894434. Piazza della Repubblica, 14/b. T: 011 5213424. cheesecake, tarts filled with custard and Piazza Carignano, 2. Peruviana Map F2 fresh fruit, Renetta apple caked and ricotta T: 011 19211250. & Piscobar Map F2 Map G6

36 WHERE TURIN I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 37 ENTERTAINMENT FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN created with a mixture of vintage furnishings and theatre of the highest standards and presents an AFTER DINNER contemporary works of art. In addition to cocktails, unrivalled range of classics, new plays and family Hiroshima Mon Amour it offers a wide choice of wines and liqueurs, entertainment. Open Tues-Sat 1pm-7pm. accompanied by a fabulous selection of finger food, www.teatrostabiletorino.it. Piazza Carignano, 6. Founded in the Eighties, Hiroshima Mon Amour is a focacce and hot, bite-sized pizzas. Open Mon- T: 011 5169555. Map F4 go-to events space for lovers of music, theatre and Thurs 5pm-to 2am; Fri 5pm-3am; Sat 10am-3am; culture. Located near the Lingotto railway station, Sun 10am-2am. www.la-drogheria.it. Piazza Vittorio Teatro Nuovo over the years it has become a reference point for Veneto, 18/d. T: 011 8122414. Map H5 Teatro Nuovo is Turin’s temple of dance. In addition events, music festivals, DJ sets, concerts featuring to the Teatro Nuovo Foundation, it is home to Italian and international artists, exhibitions and Lanificio San Salvatore the Teatro Nuovo Company, the Regional Dance clubbing. www.hiroshimamonamour.org. Located in the trendy, vibrant San Salvario district, Academy, the Teatro Nuovo School of Fine and Via Bossoli, 83. T: 011 3176636. Off Map this former wool mill serves high-quality cocktails Performing Arts, Choral Music and Musical Theatre Jazz Club Torino accompanied by a rich buffet of large, tantalizing and the Valentino Cinema. Though mainly used to dishes that are also suitable for vegetarians. stage musicals, it also hosts concerts, ballets and Located just steps from Piazza San Carlo, the Jazz Highlights include an interesting wine list, including operettas. Open daily. www.teatronuovo.torino.it. Club is justifiably one of Turin’s best venues for numerous organic labels, plus a good selection of Corso M. d’Azeglio, 17. T: 011 6500211. Off Map Italian jazz. A meeting place for lovers of the genre, classic cocktails. The venue also organizes themed its offers a diverse program of concerts with an evenings and live concerts. Open: Mon-Thurs 6pm- Teatro Regio emphasis on contemporary trends and up-and- 2am; Fri-Sat 6pm-3am; Sun 11am-2am. Located in the highly central Piazza Castello, Teatro coming artists. The venue also hosts a restaurant Via Sant’Anselmo, 30. T: 011 0867568. Map F7 Regio is the ‘grande’ dame of Turinese theatres. The and lounge bar where guests can relax and enjoy a venue was commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II at meal or a drink while listening to the music. Open the beginning of the 18th century and designed by Wed-Thurs 8.30pm-midnight; Fri 8.30pm-2am; THEATRES Filippo Juvarra. The theatre’s history is inextricably Sat 8.30pm-3am; Sun: see calendar. www.jazzclub. linked to several of the world’s most illustrious torino.it. Via S. Francesco da Paola corner of via One of the most important theatres in Turin, it was musicians including Arturo Toscanini, Giacomo Giolitti. T: 011 882939. Map G5 the place where the king went to watch plays (opera Puccini and Richard Strauss who conducted and Les Arcades was only performed at the Teatro Regio). Dating staged their operas here. Today it presents an exciting international program of operas, ballets This informal locale in the Porta Nuova district, back to 1700, it is run by the prestigious Teatro and concerts. Open Tues-Fri 10.30am-6pm; Sat made headlines a few years ago due to Tamango, Stabile di Torino and located in the city’s beautiful 10.30am4pm. www.teatroregio.torino.it. a hallucinogenic cocktail, that everyone, including piazza Carignano, opposite Palazzo Carignano. Piazza Castello, 215. T: 011 8815557. Map F3 the BBC, talked about. Based on a secret recipe Teatro Carignano has a reputation for producing and prepared with a mix of African plants and roots, Tamango gets its red colour from roselle leaves, a species of hibiscus, which apparently prompts a sense of euphoria and a desire to dance. Open Tues-Sat 9.30pm-4am. Via Fratelli Calandra, 10. T: 339 852806. Map G6 Piano35 Italy’s highest panoramic lounge bar is housed in the skyscraper designed by Renzo Piano to host the offices of the Intesa Sanpaolo bank. Here you can taste amazing cocktails created by multi-starred bar tender Mirko Turconi accompanied by an assortment of delectable finger food. The venue offers breathtaking views over a winter garden and the city of Turin. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight. www.grattacielointesasanpaolo.com. Corso A drink in a pastry shop Inghilterra, 3. T: 0114387837. Map B4 In the space formerly housing the Magorabin restaurant, Chef Marcello Trentini has launched Casa Mago, a cozy APERITIVI cocktail bar where you can sample innovative drinks and small gourmet ‘bowls’. By Giulia Minero Ballantine’s Established in 1971, this was the first American Bar ever opened in Italy. A reference point in the f you’re looking for a cocktail bar that’s innovative creations like the Mago Gourmet "scodelle", the Italian for bowls, that combine centre of the city for aperitivi, it offers a great different from standard aperitivo-style locales, – the locale’s signature cocktail made with red Italian recipes and flavours with influences selection of wines and cocktails but also fresh fruity your go-to destination is located within and white vermouth, rice vinegar and tomato from all over the world. non-alcoholic drinks for teetotalers. Also a popular I lunchtime spot. Open Mon-Sat 8am-noon; Sun walking distance from the Mole. juice, bitters flavoured with green Sichuan 5pm-10pm. Corso G. Matteotti, 25. T: 011 5628849. Casa Mago, a sophisticated cocktail bar cum peppercorns and soda. Every day (excluding >> Casa Mago Cocktail Lounge Map D5 pasticceria, where the marriage between Tuesdays and Wednesdays), from 6pm to Corso San Maurizio, 61/b. Map H4 Beena signature drinks, bite-sized pastries and 12-midnight and until 2am on Fridays and www.magorabin.com/casamago This venue offers a delectable Indian-style tempting single servings reaches its zenith, Saturdays, guests at Casa Mago can pair their apericena (more than an aperitivo and less than a stems from chef Marcello Trentini's and his drinks with a selection of sweet and savoury dinner). Instead of a buffet, the menu includes a wife Simona Beltrami’s desire to combine a bite-sized pastries, including five single-serve cocktail and seven appetizers, served at your table © MICHELE D’OTTAVIO tradition loved by the Torinese with a touch of desserts like pear and chocolate, orange and and cooked while you wait in a traditional Tandoori MUSEO NAZIONALE DEL CINEMA oven. A full immersion into the aromas and flavours cosmopolitan innovation. Credit for its success ganache, lemon tart, raspberries and white of India.Open Tues-Sun 6pm-2am. www.beena.it. Via Featuring a spectacular layout, this unique ‘vertical museum’, housed in the city’s landmark also goes to the venue’s female mixologist, chocolate and tarte aux pommes, a tasting dish Lombroso, 22. T: 349 7078645. Map F7 Mole Antonelliana, is dedicated to the history of cinema. In addition to a vast film library, Carlotta Linzalata, the brainchild behind a of macarons, or seven savoury classics, like club the museum’s rich heritage includes collections dedicated to the archaeology of cinema, the La Drogheria cocktail list that in addition to featuring classics sandwiches or hamburgers, re-imagined in ‘Aula del Tempio’, the ‘Macchina del Cinema’, the ‘Galleria dei Manifesti’ and the ‘Rampa’, Tucked away under the arcades of piazza Vittoria, offering a breathtaking view over the museum from above. www.museocinema.it like the Americano, Mi-To, Boulevardier, the shape of savoury tarts. The gastronomic THE CAF La Drogheria is a stylish cocktail bar with an © Old Fashioned and Manhattan, also includes offerings find their maximum expression in international feel. The atmosphere is just right and

38 WHERE TURIN I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 39 MUSEUMS & FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS Allianz Juventus Stadium to the above, this must-visit museum offers a shopping mall, where you can admire the spiral Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, the fabulous program of major exhibitions by Italian ramp that leads to the autodrome (www.8gallery. it) and the ‘Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli’, Allianz Stadium is the sixth largest stadium in Italy and international artists. The Art Library and the a small art gallery packed with masterpieces. On and the largest in Piedmont. Better known as the Photographic Archives of Turin’s Civic Museums are exiting the Pinacoteca you can visit the rooftop test Juventus Stadium, it is owned by the Juventus headquartered at GAM. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. track and admire the ‘Bolla’, the bubble-shaped, Football Club whose home matches have been Closed on Monday. Museum full ticket price: €10. blue glass meeting room. The old Carpano plants, played here since 2011, the year when the facility www.gamtorino.it. Via Magenta, 31. T: 011 4429518. Map C5 lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now was opened. One of the most avant-garde, eco- occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. (www.eataly. compatible facilities in the world, in addition to J-Museum (Juventus Museum) net). Lingotto: Via Nizza, 294. being one of the two architectural symbols of Located in the Allianz Stadium complex, in the Off Map modern-day Turin, the Stadium is one of the city’s northwestern area of Turin, the J-Museum is Mole Antonelliana major hubs of tourist attraction. The complex dedicated to the history and triumphs of the The Mole has been an architectural landmark of the also houses Area 12, a shopping mall featuring a Juventus Football Club. Opened in 2012, it is one city since 1889. Named after its creator, architect hypermarket, shops and several restaurants. The of the world’s best and most innovative sports Alessandro Antonelli, the Mole was purchased by J-Museum, the first official football museum of the museums. State-of the-art technology, memorabilia the Municipality of Turin and made into a monument ‘bianconera’ team is hosted inside the east area. and an adrenalin-filled atmosphere offer fans a of national unity. At the time of its construction it www.juventus.com/it/stadium-e-museum. Corso unique, memorable experience. By purchasing a was the highest brick building in Europe, standing Gaetano Scirea, 50. T: 899 999897. combined Museum and Stadium Tour ticket you can at a height of 167 metres. Built according to eclectic Off Map also visit several areas of the Allianz Stadium that 19th century architectural techniques, the Mole are generally off-limits to the public. Open from 16 Basilica di Superga rises through layers of windows and pseudo- September to 15 March, Mon-Fri 10.30am-6pm; Sat- Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II as a Greek columns to a huge ribbed cupola and a Sun and Holydays 10.30am-7.30pm. Closed on 25 thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s needlelike spire. On the top, a twelve-pointed December and every Tuesday (unless matchday). deliverance from the French siege of 1706, star is silhouetted against the Turinese skyline. The ticket office closes one hours before the the Basilica is one of the many masterpieces Inside, a panoramic, glass elevator takes visitors museum. Matchday opening hours: see official site. by architect Filippo Juvarra, who designed it on a ride through the roof of the museum’s vast Full ticket price: €15. www.juventus.com/it/stadium- according to the style of the era with a colonnaded atrium and up 85 metres inside the tower to the e-museum. Via 153. T: 011 4530486. portico, cloisters (the building still houses a friars’ 360-degree observation platform at the top of Off Map convent) and a dome. Situated on one of the the cupola. The view of Turin and its surrounding hills surrounding Turin and framed by the Alpine Lingotto Alpine range is absolutely spectacular. Visitors mountain range, the Basilica dominates the city This complex of cream coloured concrete and glass can also access the panoramic deck on foot by and offers visitors a breathtaking view that is even buildings, built in 1916, based on a project by Matté climbing the 573 steps located inside the cavity of more stunning when viewed from the top of the Trucco to house the FIAT factory (now FCA), still the cupola (by reservation from Monday to Friday, dome (131 steps). After visiting the tombs of the symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by and without reservation on Saturdays, Sundays and Savoy family, the Popes’ chamber and the royal Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it now hosts the pavilions public holidays). Since 2000, the Mole Antonelliana apartments, you can walk around the building to of Lingotto Fiere, the headquarters of major events has hosted the National Museum of Cinema. Via see the memorial that pays tribute to the ‘Grande including Automotoretrò (www.automotoretro. Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138563. Torino’. In 1949, a plane carrying the entire Turin it) and the International Book Fair; the ‘8 Gallery’ Map H4 football team on their return from an away match crashed into the side of the church, killing all on board. Although the Basilica can be reached by car Sala Cignaroli or public transport, one of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, an original 1934 tram which rattles the 3km up the hillside. Strada Basilica di Superga, 73. T: 011 8997456. Tramway: Piazza Modena, 6. Off Map The undeniable charm of objets d’art Castello di Rivoli - Museo d’Arte The exhibition itinerary at Turin’s Museum of Decorative Arts holds myriad surprises in store, including a collection Contemporanea The headquarters of Turin’s Museum of of porcelain by Meissen and a boudoir that belonged to Christian Dior… By Elena Peverata Contemporary Art since 1984, the Castello di Rivoli, a masterpiece of Baroque art designed by Filippo Juvarra in 1718, is located outside the n unmissable house-museum, taste, a combination of a historic home and >> Fondazione Accorsi-Ometto city, at the entrance to Val di Susa. The museum offers a rich collection of works documenting the a journey through time and 18th an exhibition of furnishings and objet Museo di Arti Decorative. Via Po, 55 latest artistic trends. Highlights include works by Acentury Turin. Housed in a historic d’art from the 18th and 19th centuries. The www.fondazioneaccorsi-ometto.it Sol Lewitt, Richard Long, Michelangelo Pistoletto, 17th century ‘palazzo’ on via Po, in addition building’s 27 rooms host more than 3,000 Transavanguardia, Maurizio Cattelan, Vanessa to showcasing a fabulous array of decorative works of art, including paintings, ceramics, Beecroft, as well as new generation artists. Open Sala degli Specchi Tues-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. Closed on arts, the Accorsi-Ometto museum hosts furniture, crystals and tapestries, only part Monday, 1 January, 1 May, 24-25 and 31 December. temporary exhibitions. Formerly the of which are preserved in museum-like Full ticket price: €8.50. www.castellodirivoli.org. headquarters of the Antonian Order, the display cases. This crowded menagerie of Piazza Mafalda di Savoia, Rivoli. T: 011 9565280. entire building was bought by renowned precious objects and furnishings features Off Map Turin antique dealer Pietro Accorsi in 1956. several masterpieces, including a collection GAM - Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e ITALYPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM © ENRICOALIBERTI Following the death of its owner, this historic of furniture by 18th century cabinet maker Contemporanea PALAZZO CARIGNANO building was renovated by his pupil Giulio Pietro Piffetti, and a snuff box decorated with GAM boasts an extraordinary collection of Built between 1679 and 1684 by Guarino Guarini, this impressive Baroque building in Piazza Ometto, and converted into a museum a portrait of Napoleon Bonaparte, a beautiful 45,000 works by renowned 19th and 20th-century Italian and European artists, including Balla, Carlo Alberto features a monumental, curvilinear terracotta façade that anticipates the layout showcasing the extraordinary items collected gift that was created on the occasion of his Severini Boccioni, De Chirico, Dix, Ernst and Klee. of the interior spaces. The headquarters of the National Museum of the Italian Risorgimento by Accorsi over the years. The museum was marriage to Marie Louise of Austria in 1810. Highlights include paintings, sculptures, drawings, has numerous historical treasures, including a highly specific library and two original decorated based on choices and criteria Another unmissable highlight is the ‘Christian installations, videos and photos, plus one of the parliament chambers. www.museorisorgimentotorino.it that reflected the original owner’s personal Dior Boudoir’. most important collections of video art. In addition

40 WHERE TURIN I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 41 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

Musei Reali and famous advertising campaigns and to explore the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and In 2014, in-depth restorations allowed all the everything related to Lavazza’s history and coffee Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site (www. EDITOR’S buildings in the complex, the Royal Palace, the production. In order to access the museum’s residenzereali.it). The park sometimes hosts events Museo Egizio TIP Musei Reali Armoury, the Royal Library, the Archaeological numerous interactive sections, visitors are provided such as ‘Terra Madre-Salone del Gusto’ (Mother Museum, the Savoy Gallery, A Savoy residence until 1865, Turin’s Royal with a Lavazza espresso cup at the entrance. This Earth Tasting Festival www.salonedelgusto.com and, lastly, the Royal Gardens to be connected. Museums are one of the largest and most iconic object is designed to activate the installations or the ‘Salone dell’Automobile’ (Turin Car Show) Visitors are now able enjoy a unique museum tour, diverse museum complexes in Europe. and unlock multimedia content across the museum. www.parcovalentino.com. Park: Corso Massimo comprising a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. of The sheer size of the complex and collections Open Wed-Sun 10am-6pm (last admission 5.30pm). D’Azeglio / Valentino Castle: Viale Mattioli, 39 / exhibition space and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. housed therein easily rival those of other Closed on 15 August. Full ticket price: 10 €. museo. Town and Medieval Castle: Viale Virgilio, 107 / The origins of the Royal Museums date back to 1563, major European royal residences. A unique lavazza.com. Via Bologna, 32A. T: 011 2179621. Botanical Gardens: Viale Mattioli, 25. Map G7 when Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved tour devoted to history, art and nature, Map H1 the capital from Chambéry to Turin. This marked Piazza San Carlo comprising a 3km route of exhibition spaces the beginning of a major urban transformation and Museo Nazionale del Cinema Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, and seven hectares of gardens. the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which The National Museum of Cinema, housed in the piazza San Carlo was commissioned by Marie now include artifacts dating from the prehistoric Mole Antonelliana, is one of the world’s most Christine of France in true Parisian style. It is ARMERIA REALE - More than 5,000 era to the present time. Between the 17th and 18th important film museums. Featuring a unique, a rectangle of perfect proportions with an equestrian statue – the so-called ‘Caval’d Brons’ - objects dating from the Prehistoric era to the centuries, the appearance of the residence, with the vertical layout, this ‘temple of cinema’ spirals upwards through several exhibition levels, of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre 20th century, one of whose most important imposing Royal Palace at its centre, was expanded creating a spectacular display of its extraordinary and on its southern side, facing the Porta Nuova sections comprises an impressive collection and changed, thanks to the work of several of the era’s most illustrious architects. A Savoy Residence collections through an evocative, interactive Station, a twin pair of Baroque churches, San of 16th century arms and amour. until 1865, the Royal Museums are now owned by the itinerary. In addition to a vast film library Carlo and Santa Christina. The former was built in BIBLIOTECA REALE – One of the city’s Italian government. On-site amenities include a food containing more than 7,000 titles, the museum 1639 based on a project by architect Amedeo di most important cultural institutions, court in the former Regia Frutteria. offers collections dedicated to the archaeology of Castellamonte, while building on the latter began it houses over 200,000 books, antique www.museireali.beniculturali.it. Piazzetta Reale, 1. cinema, the ‘Aula del Tempio’ (Temple Room), the in 1619 (its façade was designed by Juvarra and maps, engravings and drawings, including Map F3 focal heart of the museum, with areas dedicated to dates back to 1715). Piazza San Carlo is flanked Leonardo da Vinci’s famous ‘Self Portrait’. the great genres of cinematic history. Don’t miss by seemingly endless elegant porticoes housing Museo della Sindone big-name fashion boutiques. The square is located CAPPELLA DELLA SINDONE – Recently the ‘Rampa’ (the Ramp) which, like a movie, unfolds Housed in the crypt of the church of SS. Sudario, this to reveal the dome, offering a breathtaking view in the middle of the partly pedestrianized arterial re-opened after a long and complex fascinating museum documents one of the most over the museum from above, the ‘Macchina del road of via Roma which, with its arcaded shops restoration, until the 1990s, the chapel, a studied objects in human history: the Sindone, the Cinema’ (the Movie Machine), an area dedicated and cafés, connects the Station of Porta Nuova Baroque masterpiece, housed the Sindone, famous ‘Holy Shroud’ a linen cloth which according to the film industry and the ‘Galleria dei Manifesti’ to piazza Castello. Piazza San Carlo is home to now preserved in the Cathedral of Turin. to tradition Christ was wrapped in when deposed (the Poster Gallery). Open 9am-8pm, Sat 9am- several of the city’s best-known cafés and pastry GALLERIA SABAUDA - Spread over from the cross. The museum provides visitors with 11pm. Closed on Tues shops. Make sure to try the blends on offer at Have you heard of Jean-François headquarters – the imposing Palazzo four levels of exhibition space, the gallery information about its provenance and history (from www.museocinema.it. Mole Antonelliana. Via Caffè San Carlo, the pastries of Caffè Torino or the Champollion? A French archaeologist delle Accademia delle Scienze, dating showcases approximately 500 masterpieces the second half of the 5th century when it became Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138560-011 8138561. chocolates and candies of Stratta. Map F4 and Egyptologist and the director of the back to the 17th century – the museum is the property of the ), as well as by Italian, Dutch, Flemish and European Map H4 Egyptian sector of the Louvre in Paris, extremely modern in terms of both its layout the various theories and mysteries surrounding it. Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli artists displayed in chronological order from Other highlights include the objects and paintings OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni Archistar Renzo Piano designed what he referred he is the man who deciphered and immersive visitor experience. the 14th to 20th centuries. displayed during Public Ostensions (cyclical From a former rail repair workshop to a new hub to as a ‘treasure trove’, a captivating space located the mystery of hieroglyphics Remodelled by Oscar-winning set on the rooftop of Turin’s Lingotto building, formerly GIARDINI REALI - Extending over showings of the Shroud). Open daily 9am-Noon, of contemporary culture and innovation. Opened through the Rosetta Stone designer Dante Ferretti in 2015, approximately seven hectares of land, 3pm-7pm. Full ticket price: €6. www.sindone.it/ in 2017, following a major renovation, this majestic, the headquarters of the first Fiat (now FCA) in 1822. It is also thanks to the exhibition space was doubled, and located in the centre of the city, these museo. Chiesa del SS. Sudario, via San Domenico, late 19th century industrial complex in the heart of automotive factory. This intimate gallery hosts a Champollion’s expertise following massive renovations, beautiful gardens testify to the city’s history 28. T: 011 4365832. Map E2 Turin has become a meeting place for contemporary permanent exhibition showcasing the personal collection of late Fiat head Giovanni Agnelli and and former opulent splendour. Due to culture. The venue hosts a rich program of that we owe the defining and is now spread over four Museo Egizio exhibitions, performances, concerts – both classical his wife Marella. Here you can admire a unique ongoing renovations, today only a portion of statement: “The road to levels, three above ground and Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian and electronic – as well as events dedicated to collection of seven paintings by Matisse, a 1913 Memphis and Thebes one below ground, organized the garden are open for public viewing. museum in the world and the second in terms of theatre, dance and the performing arts. Other painting by Balla dedicated to the theme of speed, MUSEO DI ANTICHITÀ - The most the value and quality of its treasures outside of initiatives include workshops, start-ups and as well as masterpieces by Severini, Modigliani passes through Turin.” in chronological order. important archaeological finds unearthed Cairo. It was founded in 1824, when king Carlo presentations. Open Thurs-Sun 11am-7pm; Fri 11am- and Tiepolo. The collection also includes works When mentioning Here you’ll find mummies, in the city and throughout Piedmont are Felice of Savoy purchased the collection from art 8pm. www.ogrtorino.it. Corso Castelfidardo, 22. by Canaletto, Bellotto, Picasso, Renoir, Manet and Turin, he was referring tombs, papyrus sheets and expert Bernardino Drovetti. It is housed inside the Cano. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm (last entrance housed in the new underground space lying T: 011 4365832. Map G4 to its unique and everything related to ancient adjacent to the ruins of the Roman Theatre. historic Palazzo dell’Accademia delle Scienze, built 6.15pm). Closed on Monday and on 24 and 25 in the 17th century by architect Guarino Guarini. In Parco del Valentino extraordinary Egypt (included embalmed PALAZZO REALE - Majestic staircases, December. Open 10am-3pm on 31 December and 2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum Located on the banks of the River Po, this is the 3pm-7pm on 1 January. Full ticket price (Permanent Egyptian Museum, animals) from the Paleolithic lavishly decorated rooms, carved ceilings, was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer city’s largest and most popular park. Spread over Collection + Temporary Exhibition): €10. www. the world’s first to the Coptic era. If you’re so stuccoes, delicately gilded furniture and Dante Ferretti. The exhibition space is spread over a surface area of 550,000 sq.m, the park’s interior pinacoteca-agnelli.it. Entrance: Lingotto ‘8 Gallery’. Egyptian museum overwhelmed that you don’t frescoes. An impressive feat of significant five floors and houses more than 37,000 artifacts houses numerous treasures including the Castello Via Nizza, 230/103. T: 011 0062713. artistic and architectural value, and the ranging from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. The del Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site, Off Map founded in 1824, the know where to begin your official residence of the Savoy family until archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean-François now home to the Politecnico di Torino’s faculty second in terms of the tour, get an audio guide. It’s free Teatro Regio 1865, the Royal Palace was expanded and Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and of architecture; the Medieval Village and Castle, value and number of and allows you to choose and faithful 19th century reconstructions based on Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II and changed thanks to the work of several of Thebes passes through Turin’. Make sure to arm artifacts (around 40,000) personalize your itinerary to suit the model of Piedmont and Valdostano castles, designed by Filippo Juvarra, the Teatro Regio was Turin’s most illustrious architects and artists yourself with an audio guide: it’s free and enables you to tailor the itinerary of your visit according to and the Botanical Gardens, established in 1729 inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, outside of Cairo, and individual requirements. A tip? between the 18th and 19th centuries. your requirements. Open Tues-Sun 9am-6.30pm, for educational purposes and open to the public and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo the eighth most widely The Restoration Area on the first PALAZZO CHIABLESE - The rooms Mon 9am-2pm. Full ticket price: €15. since 1995. Tactile tours of the facility for blind Mollino, the only part of the original building visited museum in Italy. floor that allows visitors to watch on the ground floor of Palazzo Chiablese, that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO www.museoegizio.it. Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6. or partially sighted visitors are also available. The British newspaper animal mummies being restored. an 18th century building that, over the T: 011 4406903. Map F4 Starting from Ponte Umberto I, you can walk or world heritage site. Its unusual gated access from “The Times” listed it as one centuries, was used as a residence for cycle along the river, or stroll along the park’s Piazza Castello, a ‘bronze gate’ named Odissea Museo Lavazza members of the Savoy family, house paths. The park is always open, but the Castello Musicale (Musical Odyssey) is a work by famous of the 50 best museums >> Museo Egizio Lavazza is one of the most famous and oldest brands the temporary exhibitions of the Royal del Valentino is not open to the public. The artist-sculptor Umberto Mastroianni. The Regio on the planet. Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6. of Italian coffee. During its 120 years in the industry, is one of the most important Italian theatres on Museums. Botanical Gardens can be visited from mid-April Despite its longstanding T: 011 4406903. Map F4 it has marked the history of Italy’s coffee culture with to mid-October. Together with the Reggia di the European scene, and offers an action-packed history and historic www.museoegizio.it advertisements and celebrities that have become an Venaria, Villa della Regina, Castello di Moncalieri, program of opera, ballet, symphony concerts and integral part of its public image. The museum uses a Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi and Castello other cultural activities. www.teatroregio.torino.it. circular route to focus on its creative collaborations di Rivoli, the Castello del Valentino is a part of Piazza Castello, 215. T: 011 88151. Map F3/G3

42 WHERE TURIN I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 43 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN Emergency EUROPEAN EMERGENCY NUMBER: 112 112 is the unique European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance, Firefighters, Police. Caselle If the caller does not know where he or she Airport is, the operator will identify where the person Malpensa making the call is physically located and will pass Airport this information to the emergency services. OPEN PHARMACIES Farmacia Nizza (Via Nizza, 65. MM Nizza. T: 011 66992599). Open Mon-Sat 3pm-1pm, Sun 7:30pm-9am Farmacia Piazza Massaua (Piazza Massaua, 1/D. MM Massaua. T: 011 7793308). Open daily 24/24 Farmacia Comunale 42 (Via XX Settembre, 5. T: 011 543287). Open daily 24/24 Farmacia Comunale 25 (Porta Nuova Station. T: 011 542825). Open daily 7am-7.30pm. www.farmaciediturno.org

PASSPORTS Questura Centrale di Torino. Corso Vinzaglio, 10. T: 011 55881. www.questure.poliziadistato.it/ torino Taxi In Italy taxis cannot be flagged down as they pass you along the street; they are stationed at special taxi parking stands in most of the major squares in any city or town and at the airport and can be requested by phone. Main taxi parking Via Nizza (Porta Nuova Station), Corso Bolzano (Porta Susa Station), Piazza Castello, Piazza CLN TAXI TORINO T: 011 5737 or 5730 - www.taxitorino.it www.wetaxi.it: app available for iOS and Android, it has more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers. Taxi fares Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of €34 on the Turin Caselle Airport section starting Turin, the city of the Alps from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra The first capital of Italy, is a ‘drawing room city’ of elegant porticoes surrounded by green hills and, further fee for night or holiday travel). If the amount on the taximeter is less than €34 afield, by majestic mountains. This is Turin, a city renowned for its history, culture and natural beauties. or €39 you’ll pay the amount of the taximeter. To calculate the approximate fare of your taxi ride: urin was a Roman colony, the first and its elegant squares have given Turin the system, extends for 13.2km and only includes www.wetaxi.it/taxitorino capital of Italy and an industrial city. nickname of a ‘drawing room’ city. one line that connects the commune of Fast train network from Turin ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. Tickets can be purchased on board (only cash www.italotreno.it. payments allowed) or at several stores (a list is From its origins to the present time, With the exception of a few streets in the Collegno to the Torino Porta Nuova railway T PORTA NUOVA & PORTA SUSA STATIONS available on the website). Turin has had several different incarnations, centre, which are off-limits to traffic (including station (the city’s main railway hub) and the Turin offers fast-track access to major cities across Airports One-way ticket: €6,50 - round trip ticket: €12. each of which has left profound traces in its the Quadrilatero Romano and its shopping Torino Porta Susa station, before reaching Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Milan: TORINO CASELLE “SANDRO PERTINI” (TRN) - Sadem also provides a shuttle service from Turin architecture and urban layout. streets), the remainder of the city is open the Lingotto Fiere terminus. 1 hour • Bologna: 2 hours 20 min • Florence: (16 km from the centre of Turin). The airport, to Milan Malpensa airport. 2 hours 55 min • Venice: 3 hours 35 min • Rome: Extending over a surface area of less than to traffic and most landmark attractions are Turin boasts an enviable geographic position. at the North of Turin, is easily reachable in 25 4 hours 30 min • Naples: 5 hours 30 min. minutes by car thanks to the Turin-Caselle 150 square kilometers, crossed by the Po, the easily accessible by car. However, beware of It is surrounded by green hills that stand WHERE TIP With a Torino+Piemonte Card, you’ll The most important railway station in Turin is motorway junction. The junction is connected only pay €5 for your ticket. longest river in Italy, Turin is characterized by access regulation ‘ZTL Centrale’, which is active 715 metres above sea level, and which, in Torino Porta Nuova, in the central Corso Vittorio directly to the Tangenziale Nord and to the Taxi Torino (more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers) a checkerboard-like grid of streets that makes Mon-Fri, 7.30am-10.30am and prohibits the addition to their natural beauty, also offer Emanuele II, 58; regional, interregional, high- Turin-Milan, Turin-Aosta and Turin-Bardonecchia T: 011 5737 or 5730 - www.taxitorino.it - speed and international trains arrive at and motorways. Information desk T: 011 5676361-2. getting your bearings easy. circulation of private vehicles and parking numerous cultural and historical attractions. www.wetaxi. depart from there. www.aeroportoditorino.it One of the city’s most distinctive architectural in the centre of the city. This restriction does They can be reached in just a few minutes Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the features is its 18km of porticoes – mostly not, however, apply to taxis or chauffer driven by public transport, the Sassi-Superga tram Trains between Torino Porta Nuova and Milan • Connections to the airport Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of stop at the Torino Porta Susa station, including Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta located in the city centre – which house shops hired cars. As an alternative, you can use public or car. Turin is also an ideal base to reach €34 on the Turin-Caselle Airport section starting TGV services between Paris and Milan and other Nuova Station (on the corner between Corso from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino and cafes. Its porticoes, originally designed to transport to get around the city. These include several of Europe’s most renowned ski resorts. services using the Turin–Milan high-speed line. Vittorio Emanuele II and Via Sacchi). Every 15-30 Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra offer shade in the summer and shelter from the buses, trams and the subway (metropolitana). It is therefore not surprising that the city is TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. min, travel time approx. 45’ (4.45am-11.30pm fee for night or holiday travel). rain, snow, and sometimes the wind in winter, The ‘metropolitana’, a fully automated subway described as the ‘Capital of the Alps’. www.trenitalia.com. Mon-Sat; 5.30am-11pm Sun and holidays).

44 WHERE TURIN I JANUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 45 BRENTATORE CORSO VERCELLI

CORSO ALESSANDRIA CORSO

TANGENZIALE NORD TORINO

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Santa Gianna CORSO GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI CORSO GIULIO CESARE

ANZ OL A I V S T R A D A D I D R U E N D O

S T R A D A D I D R U E N D O STRADA DI DRUENDO 500 m V I A V E R O N E S E

BERGERA VIA VENARIA V I A R E I S S R O M O L I V IA A NDREA SANSOV V I A R E I S S R O M O L I IN O VIA TRAVES CORSO GAETANO SCIREA Juventus Museum V I A V E R O N E S E REBAUDENGO

VIAGIOVANNI BAT TISTAGANDINO STRAD A DE Allianz Stadium LLA CO VI NT INE V I A R E I S S R O M O L I SS A A AL CORSO VERCELLI

I T R E B I N U C O I R O T T I V A I V FONSO VI A REFRA ANZ OL A I V STRADA ALTESSANO V I A V E R O N E S E V I A G V IA M A I U S E P P E VIA PAOLO DELLA CELLA BADINI CONFALONIERI M A S S A R I V I A G I U S E P NCORE VIA VENARIA P E M A S S A R I S A C ANIS P E C IO O’ V I A G I U S U S E P P E D E P P E M GI A S S A R I VIA ETTORE STAMPINI

C O R S O F E R R A R A A VIA POMPEO COLAJANNI VI C C A R D O A R N RI V I A V I A VIA SANSOVINO O R B E T E L L O VIA VANINETTI

C O R S O G R O S S E T O V I A O R B VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI E T E V I L L O A G PIAZZA I U S E P P E M A

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VIA LEONARDO FEA

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V I A N I G R A U I N I V I A B R E G L I O V I A G U B B I O Chiesa Parr. S.Giuseppe VIA CHIESA DELLA SALUTE VIA MAZZE’ CORSO VERCELLI Benedetto Cottolengo VIA BREGLIO V I A E M I L I O B R U V AS TI R A D EL A V I A B R E G L I O V I A G O T T A R D O V I A F O L I G N O V I A S E M P I O N E V I A L E M M E V AI B O T T CI E L L I

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V I A A S S I S I V I A F O R L I ’ VIA MICHELE ANTONIO VIBO’

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VIA SAN DONATO CIRIO FRANCESCO VIA V I A M I C H E L E L E S S O N A VIA LEVANNA VIA PIERDONIGI PINELLI D O V A VIA FRATELLI PASSONI GIUSEPPE

A I S E S O G R O B A I V VIA DOMODOSSOLA VIA VIA Il Fungo di Corso Telesio VIA LIVORNO PIE TRO COSSA PEROTTI V IA S A S S A R I VIA ROMAGNANO V I A B I E L L A VIA OMEGNA VIA RAVENNA CORSO REGIO PARCO VIA NICOMEDE BIANCHI PIAZZA VIA BARI V I A C I R I E ' VIA ARONA VIA LUIGI CIBRARIO Giardino C O RNSO O V A RA TOMMASO Ospedale Marino VIA CARDEZZA VIA CASERTA Ferraro VIA NICOMEDE BIANCHI Maria Vittoria VIA BOLOGNA STRADA ANTICA DI COLLEGNO Parrocchia CAMPANELLA Chiesa VIA BRINDI San Pietro in Vincoli C O R S O B R E S C IA CORSO PALERMO VIA LUIGI GALVANI

VIA VITTORIOANDREIS VIA PIETRO COSSA S. Ermenegildo VIA SALBERTRAND S. Giovanna D'Arco STRADA A PIAZZA Re e Martire VIA NICOMEDE BIANCHI CAMPIDOGLIO SI VIA BARCELLONA VIA VAGNONE NTICA BORGOMANERO VIA ORTA DI COLL VIA NICOLA FABRIZI VIA MARIA AUSILIATRICE VIA FRANCECO CIGNA VIA CARLO CAPELLI VIA MUSINE’ EGNO LARGO VIA BALME VIA CORIO VIA SALERNO LARGO

O R A Z Z A G O F A I V Parrocchia VIA PRINCIPESSA CLOTILDE NICOLA SAN DONATO Basilica di Maria Ausiliatrice VIA NICOLA FABRIZI BRESCIA I A CARLO PEDROTTI FABRIZI S. Alfonso Maria V VIA CARLO BOSSI VIA SAN DONATO AURORA Ex Scalo Vanchiglia Dè Liguori A VIA DURANDI B C D E F G H CORSO TELESIO VIA LE CHIUSE I L

VIA EXILLES VIA NICOLA FABRIZI VIA LUIGI CIBRARIO VIA PERUGIA VIA PIERDONIGI PINELLI P A VDI O V A V I A V A L E N T I N O C A R R E R A PIAZZA VIA BALME VIA BORGO DORA VIA VITTORIO ANDREIS Lavazza Nuvola Parco Colletta VIA FIANO MARIA VIA INVORIO VIA AMEDEO P VIA SACCARELLI

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VIA GIUSEPPE DI VITTORIO VIA ALFONSO LAMARMORA N A L I V I A T I R R E N O VIA FRATELLI CARLE N A N PIAZZA O V PIAZZA VIA EVANGELISTA TORRICELLI VIA ANTONIO GENOVESI Parrocchia CORSO MASSIMO D’AZEGLIO I Sacro Cuore TOMMASO G V I A A R B E VIA TOLMINO O MARMOLADA VIA NIZZA di Maria S LESNA DON FRANCO CORSO MEDITERRANEO VIA SALUZZO R C O Istituto VIA FEDERICO CAMPANA VIA MENTANA DELPIANO Suore Sacramentine Di Bergamo VIA BELFIORE VIA TOMMASO VALPERGA CALUSO Castello del Valentino CORSO ALCIDE DE GASPERI VIA O. MORGARI

VIA PRINCIPE V IA M O N F A L C O N E C O R S O C A R L O E N E L L O R O S S E L L I VIA AMERIGO VESPUCCIVIA SAN SECONDO Chiesa Luterana VIA MADAMA CRISTINA CORSO FILIPPO TURATI V I A T I R R E N O

V IA M A T E R A VIA VIA MASSENA CA VIA FERDINANDO MAGELLANO VIA GIUSEPPE PIAZZI RLE V I A V E G L I A VIA GIORGIO BIDONE V IA A D A N E G R I LARGO VIA GIAN DOMENICO CASSINI SAN SALVARIO TIRRENO CORSO RE UMBERTO CORSO RAFFAELL V IA M O N F A L C O N E VIA OSOPPOGiardino VIA ALFONSO LAMARMORA Walter V I A T I R R E N O C O R S O C A N O N I C O G I U S E P P E A L L A M A N O Ferrarotti Giardino Francesca PIAZZA O Laura Morvillo Ospedale Umberto I di Torino NIZZA V I A O R M E A

URATI V PA I O M A R O C STINA Parco del Valentino VIA MICHELANGELO BUONARROTI O VIA BELFIORE R Nizza CRI CORSO RAFFAELL S CORSO GALILEO FERRARIS C O R S O C A N O N I C O G I U S E P P E A L L A M A N O CORSO SIRACUSA O VIA PIETRO GIURIA V I A T I R R E N O M A E VIA SALUZZO N R CORSO FILIPPO T S T R D. E L G E R B ID O I DA C O O D VIA Istituto Maria Consolatrice E N GAETAN I C O O DONIZET VIA GUIDO RENI VIA GORIZIA L A TI V I A M A V IA B A R L E T T A VIA ROVERETO V IA M O N F A L C O N E VIA RICCIONE VIA FRANCESCO PETR Museo di

Giardino Cesare Parrocchia Antropologia Criminale C O R S O D A N T E Santuario ARCA CORSO MONTE LUNGO Sacro Cuore di Gesù

A E R C A I V VIA TRIPOLI Valperga di Masino VIA LAZZARO SPALLANZANI VIA FRAN Borgo Medievale V I A B A LT I M O R A CESCO PETRA CORSO ORBASSANO V IA A R Q U A T A del Valentino RC Teatro Nuovo VIA ERNESTO LUGARO VIA NIZZA VIA VINCENZO MONTI A PIAZZALE

COSTANTINO VIA SALUZZO VIA SANTA RITA FRAN Parrocchia San Giorgio Martire VIA UGO FOSCOLO IL GRANDE CESCO PETRA C O R S O S E B A S T O P O L I V IA B A R L E T T A C O R S O D A N T E A L I G H I E R I CORSO LEPANTO VIA UGO FOSCOLO R O G I U R I A T RC A IE CORSO MASSIMO D’AZEGLIO CORSO FILIPPO TURATI O R M E A V AR I A P A L O VIA VINCENZO MONTI PIAZZA A V I A P DE AMICIS VI

PIAZZA VIA ILARIONE PETITTI SANTA RITA Giardino Dante Giorgio Anglesio C O R S O D A N T E A L I G H I E R I S T R . D E L G E R B I D O V I A B A LT I M O R A DA CASCIA VIA MARIO PAGANO V IA B A R L E T T A CORSO IV NOVEMBRE VIA TIZIANO VECELLIO VIA ILARIONE PETITTI Chiesa Parrocchiale Parco Cavalieri CORSO MONCALIERI 500 m CORSO BRAMANTE STINA S. Rita da Cascia di Vittorio Veneto V IA R O B E R T O A R D IG O CRI VIA CORREGGIO Ponte Isabella M A VIA TIZIANO VECELLIO C O R S O S E B A S T O P O L I DA GERBIDO V I A F I L A D E L F I A Parco VIA ANTONIO CANOVA VIA SALUZZO Muratori I VIA GORIZIA E V I A M A L ABRERA CCHETTI I I VIA CARLO MARENCO L VIA LUDOVICO ANTONIO MURATORI A RO G VIA TOMMASO GROSSI VIA NIZZA VIA ANTONIO CANOVA O VIA LEONARDO DA VINCI M A E V I A G I O T T O L VIA BENVENUTO CELLINI VIA G. CH L I RLO A V I A B A LT I M O R A VIA VINCENZO STEFFENONE CORSO BRAMANTE A G Parco Rignon O S R V I A C

CORSO SIRACUSA O I A O R M E A C VIA LUIGI FEDERICO MENABREA V 500 m V I A C R E A PO

CORSO UNIONEVIA TUNISI SOVIETICA V IA P A O L O G A ID A N O CORSO MASSIMO D’AZEGLIO Carducci C O R S O B R A M A N T E VIA ARDUINO Molinette V I A F I L A D E L F I A

VIA TRIPOLI

CORSO GALILEO FERRARIS VIA GIORDANO BRUNO Stadio Olimpico Grande Torino di Torino Ponte Balbis

VIA GUIDO RENI CORSO ORBASSANO C O R S O S E B A S T O P O L I VIA CHISOLA I PIAZZA T V IA S A N M A R IN O T MUZIO VIA ABEGG O I SCEVOLA L V I A F I L A D E L F I A PIAZZA G Parrocchia Natale del Signore Ospedale O PITAGORA D BORGO VIA AL Molinette O AZZIO I R

MIRAFIORI NORD A V I A C R E A M

VIA AL

E PILONETTO AZZIO S T R . D E L P O R T O N E V I A G E N O V A A S U C A R I S O S R O C VIA CHERASCO

V I A T U N I S I VIA NIZZA L L

VIA GORIZIA I VIA ST ELLONE H

VIA THONON C A V I A F I L A D E L F I A

CORSO SPEZIA O

C O R S O C O S E N Z A VIA TRIPOLI VIA VARAZZE S C O R S O E . T A Z Z O L I R

V I A B U E N O S A I R E S Spezia O C CORSO SPEZIA V IA S A N M A R IN O

VIA BRONI

CORSO GIOVANNI AGNELLI VIA C.MARTINOTTI CORSO SPEZIA VIA VARAITA

CORSO ORBASSANO CORSO MONCALIERI CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICAV I A M O N T E V I D E O PIAZZA

VIA VENTIMIGLIA POLONIA V I A B U E N O S A I R E S Parrocchia VIA ARNALDO DA BRESCIA Madonna delle Rose VIA GIULIOEataly BIGLIERI Torino Cimitero Parco VIA PIETRO BAIARDI Ospedale Regina Margherita VIA ELLERO

VIA GIULIO BIGLIERI V I A G E N O V A

CORSO COSENZA V I A TA G G I A V I A A S U N C I O N S T R . D E L P O R T O N E VIA SAN REMO VIA VENTIMIGLIA V I A T U N I S I VIA GIULIO BIGLIERI VIA LAVAGNA VIA ZINO ZINI Pinacoteca Giovanni C O R S O E N R IC O T A Z Z O L I VIA PROSPERO RICHELMY e Marella Agnelli VIA NIZZA VIA GIORDANO BRUNO

CORSO ORBASSANO CORSO EUSEBIO GIAMBONE Lingotto CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA CAVORETTO LINGOTTO Passerella Olimpica Museo dell'Automobile di Torino

VIA SPOTORNO VIA GARESSIO Lingotto PO SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO VIA VADO

CORSO ORBASSANO

VIA MILLEFONTI V I A G E N O V A SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO Lingotto Fiere CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIAVIA VENTIMIGLIA MILLEFONTI

CORSO CORSICA SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO Fiat Chrysler Automobiles Giardino C O R S O L U IG I S E T T E M B R IN I CORSO CADUTI SUL LAVORO STRADA TORINO Giuseppe Levi Stazione Torino Lingotto Ex Area Fiat Avio Lubricanti CORSO MONCALIERI VIA PASSO BUOLE NIZZA C O R S O T R A IA N O CORSO GIOVANNI AGNELLI VIA PIO VII

MILLEFONTI CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA Parco Giuseppe Di Vittorio

VIA PASSO BUOLE Torre Regione Piemonte

VIA SOMMARIVA Palavela

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIA NIZZA VIA PASSO BUOLE I R E I L A C N O M O S R O C

Parrocchia Assunzione VIA O. VIGLIANI di Maria Vergine Giardino Corpo VIA VINOVO Italiano di Liberazione

C O R S O T R A IA N O V I A G E N O V A

VIA O. VIGLIANI

VIA VENTIMIGLIA

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T MIRAFIORI SUD CORSO BENEDETTO CROCE Palazzo del Lavoro VIA PIO VII CORSO PIERO MARONCELLI

VIA O. VIGLIANI CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA

V I A O N O R A T O V I G L I A N I PIAZZA CORSO FRAT. ROSSELLI

BENGASI

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

M O T R A E L E U N A M E A I V P O

Parco Colonnetti S TRA D TONA OR I

E T S E I R T O S R O C

VIA SESTRIERE S A N G O N E

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

S A N G O N E BORGARETTO

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T

VIALE TORINO NICHELINO VIA TORINO

C O R S O T R EI S T E PO

VIA BOGINO MONCALIERI

VIA TORINO

VIALE TORINO STUPINIGI

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi Parrocchia di Stupinigi

500 m

Parco Naturale di Stupinigi ESSENTIALS DISCOVER

MILANO MALPENSA (MXP) -. ZTL informations – Visitors traveling with their The airport, at the East of Turin (135 km from the own car and staying in a hotel in the central city centre), is reachable in 1 hour 30 minutes by area can enter the ZTL for the day of arrival Where Turin Magazine car from Turin thanks to the A4 motorway. and departure only, filling out a form at the [ ONLY AT PREMIERE HOTELS ] Information desk T: 02 232323. hotel reception (ask your concierge for more www.milanomalpensa-airport.com information). • Connections to the airport In the same way it is possible to reach paid Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta public parking areas within the ZTL by filling in Nuova Station provides a shuttle service also the same parking lot with the request for transit from Turin to Milano Malpensa airport. authorization no later than 11am. www.aeroportoditorino.it Tourist Information CUNEO LEVALDIGI (CUF) - (65 km from the centre TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Piazza Carlo of Turin). Information T: 0172 741500 – 558. www. Felice, in front of the Porta Nuova Station. T: 011 aeroporto.cuneo.it 535181 Open daily 9am-1pm and 2pm-6pm. • Connections to the airport TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Piazza BMC Bus Shuttle service (www.bmcbus.it) available in Castello corner of Via Garibaldi. T: 011 535181. connection from Turin with departure and arrival Open daily 9am-6pm. of flights. €8 each way, we recommend buy ticket online. www.aeroportocuneo.it Special Tours Getting around Turin CITYSIGHTSEEING TORINO HOP ON-HOP OFF GTT – Gruppo Torinese Trasporti/Local Public Hallmark red double-decker bus offering 3 routes: Transport Company - www.gtt.to.it Line A to explore the city center and the hill; ENJOY Infoline Mon-Sat 6.30am-7.30pm. Green Line T: overlooking the Po with the Valentino Park, the 800 019152; from mobile (Toll Number): T: 011 village and the medieval fortress; Bike Sharing 0672000. Line B to access various sites including the GTT Info Point and ticket - Railway Station Torino Automobile Museum, the Lingotto, the [TO]BIKE - the bike sharing [TO]Bike service offers Porta Nuova, in front of the track 20. Mon-Fri more than 140 stations scattered around the Pinacoteca Agnelli, Eataly, the Olympic sites and 5 STARS 7.15am-7pm. Sat, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. the OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni; city from which to pick up and deposit rental Allegroitalia Golden Palace – Via dell’Arcivescovado, 18 • Lost and Found on GTT vehicles: The driver Line C for the Allianz Stadium, the Reggia di bikes. Various subscription options are available: Map E4-5 and GTT personnel are not allowed to return Venaria and the La Mandria Castle. Meeting annual €25, weekly €8 or daily €5. The use is free Grand Hotel Sitea – Via Carlo Alberto, 35 • Map F5 objects found on the vehicles directly. Lost point: at any bus stop. for rides of less than 30 minutes, even several Principi di Piemonte | UNA Esperienze – Via P. Gobetti, 15 articles found on GTT vehicles are taken to the Assistance at Ticket Point City Sightseeing Torino times a day, after which the rate provided for by Lost and Found of the City of Turin, where they (Piazza Castello corner of Via Po). 8 language • your Map F5 subscription formula is applied by scaling can be collected after 48 hours from the time of commentary. 4the STARS amount from the credit on the card. To loss. The lost and found office is in Via Meucci 4. Ticket valid 24h (48h if you combine 3 lines). Acaccess Hotel Torino the service by Marriott you – need Via Bisalta, to be 11 •a Off credit Map card Mon, Wed, Thurs, 9am-12am. T: 011 4430753. Combo tickets for top Turin attractions are also Artholder. Hotel BostonFor more Torino information – Via A. Massena, and 70 other • Off typesMap Purchase your ticket before you get on the bus available. Artof Hotelsubscription Olympic – visitVia Verolengo, the website 19 • Off www.tobike.it Map . or the tram. Ordinary ticket (€1.70) valid for 100 www.city-sightseeing.it/en/turin BestGreen Western Line Crystal 800 548040. Palace Hotel Store – Via [TO]Bike Nizza, 11 Via • Map Santa E6 minutes on buses, trams or metro. BestChiara, Western 26/f. Hotel Open Luxor Mon-Fri – Corso 10am-7pm.Stati Uniti, 7 • Map D6 Best Western Plus Executive Hotel and Suites – Via Nizza, 28 MOBIKE• Off Map – this ‘free floating’ system allows you Bestto book Western a bike Plus Hotelvia a Genovasmartphone – Via P. Sacchi, App, 14/Bidentify • Map E6 Concordthe position – Via G.L. of Lagrange, the bike 47 •nearest Map F6 to you and then TORINO + PIEMONTE CARD Dinastyleave itSuites in any – Piazza authorized Carlo Felice, parking 7 • Map E5area in the city. DiplomaticCost: 1 euro – Via deposit, Cernaia, 42 and • Map 0.30 C3 euros every 30 Doubleminutes. Tree Forby Hilton more Turin informations Lingotto – Via visit Nizza, 230 • Offwww.mobike.com. Map Duparc Contemporary Suites – Corso Massimo d’Azeglio, 21 • OFO – Ofo, the world largest station-free bike Off Map sharing company, has launched in Turin. Holiday Inn Turin City Centre – Via Assietta, 3 • Map D6 Operating across 180 cities worldwide, Ofo’s Hotel dei Pittori – Corso Regina Margherita, 57 • Map I3 mission is to provide a convenient, affordable Hoteland Principelow carbon di Torino method – Corso ofMoncalieri, travel. 85Users • Off canMap Lancasterdownload Torino an –App Corso on Filippo their Turati, smartphone 8 • Off Map to find J nearbyHotel – Via bikes Traves, and 40 • scan Off Mapthe QR code located on Nheither Collection the frameTorino Piazzaor smart Carlina lock – Piazzato unlock Carlo Emanuele them. II, 15The • Map company’s G5 yellow bikes have airless tyres Nh(to Torino prevent Centro punctures) – Corso Vittorio and Emanuele a 3-speed II, 104 gear • Map shift. B4 NhCosts: Torino 0.20 Lingotto euros Congress for the – first Via Nizza, half 262 hour; • Off 0.30Map euros Nhfor Torino the secondSanto Stefano half hour; – Via Porta 0.50 Palatina, euros 19for • Mapevery F2-3 30 Novotelminutes Torino thereafter Corso Giulio and Cesare 5 euros – Corso per Giulio day. Cesare, RUSSKYMAVERICK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

© 338/34For more • Off informationsMap visit www.ita.ofo.com This card can be purchased online or at Turin’s Tourist Offices. With this pass you get Pacific Hotel Fortino – Strada del Fortino, 36 • Off Map OBIKEStarhotels - oBike Majestic is a –global Corso Vittorio leader Emanuele in bike-sharing II, 54 • Map E6 free entry to Turin’s most important museums and exhibitions, castles, fortresses and Thewithout Originals stations Hotel Turin offering Royal – an Corso innovative Regina Margherita, service the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont for 1*, 2, 3 or 5 consecutive days. It also 249for • Offshort Map distance transport. The platform is offers reduced-price tickets to several other cultural sites in Piedmont, discounts on TownHousecurrently 70present – Via XX on Settembre, 3 different 70 • Map continents F3 for a Turin’s main tourist services, plus other benefits. Turintotal Palace of 26 Hotel states – Via and P. Sacchi, over 840 • Map cities E6 worldwide. For more information www.turismotorino.org VictoriaThe app, Torino which – Via N.can Costa, be 4 downloaded • Map F5 comfortably Villaon Savoiayour smartphone, – Corso Sicilia, 1, allows angolo Corso users Moncalieri to locate • Off and Map *The one-day pass is valid for a maximum of three entries to the Turin museum circuit. rent bicycles using a completely innovative CITY GUIDE

48 WHERE TURIN I JANUARY 2020 www.whereitalia.com SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS