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TRAVEL FEATURE

Right: A small boat bobs around on water in front of the beautiful Ardanaiseig Hotel, Kilchrenan near Oban, pictured above A BREATH OF FRESH AIR

IN SEARCH OF A RELAXING BREAK FROM CITY LIVING, HANNAH RODGER HEADED INTO THE HEART OF . SHE FOUND IT AMIDST BREATHTAKING SCENERY IN AN OLD COUNTRY HOUSE IN TAYNUILT

HE hustle and bustle of a good book and enjoying the fresh air. As I walked along the corridor and After a few minutes’ walk through the from a seaside spot in – plenty been a disappointment and I was hoping living and working in Having briefly researched the area and up the stairs to my room – a stunning sprawling gardens, I found myself down of fish and chip shops, quaint craft Oban’s War And Peace Museum for a similar result. I wasn’t left wanting. a city can occasionally the hotel before making the trip, I was double room called Cruachan with a view by the loch, looking across the still black boutiques and old-fashioned sweet shops THINGS TO DO A great place to learn about local Moist and juicy pork belly, fluffy potato take its toll and taking a most excited to find out more about its over Loch Awe – I noticed a number of water to a number of small houses on mixed in with well-known high street maritime and fishing industries, railroads bon bons, black pudding and pulled countryside break can be history and sample a few of the dinner unusual artworks lining the walls of the the other side. A few small boats bobbed retailers and cafes. IN TAYNUILT and sport in the area. And enjoy a poke ham hock were delivered by well-dressed T a revitalising treat that delights boasted about on the menu. house, and the vivid colourful wallpaper around on the shore, which I later The harbour was busy with large 5 of chips or a 99 while you’re at it. waitresses. Although the atmosphere – doesn’t break the I knew it would be beautiful – the hotel which gave the venue a modern, airy feel. discovered could be hired out by guests sailboats and ferries coming and going, all shining silver cutlery and stiff white bank. That was my first thought had won an array of industry awards for The room itself was more traditional, to use on short trips across the water, or and locals stopped to chat to one Fishing on Loch Awe Climb tablecloths – was more formal than I when I arranged a two-night stay at its beauty and romantic feel – but I was complete with a curtained four-poster to examine the remains of an old burial another beside the seafront. It was easy The hotel has a team of expert Ghillies The highest point in , would normally be comfortable with, the Ardanaiseig Hotel in Argyll, an old, intrigued to see what else the place had bed, an array of lamps, a plush armchair ground on Inishail Island in the centre. to spend a couple of hours wandering who can help with fishing, for a price, or Ben Cruachan is surrounded by tales of the taste made up for the awkward traditional country house venue close to offer besides plush interiors, a good and perfectly plump sofa. The island, distinctive in the area for round the place, picking up souvenirs you can go solo and take your chances Celtic myths and legends. The 1126m environment, and I demolished my out on the loch. Rods are also high mountain may be a stretch to Oban. wine cellar and fine dining. I decided to take a tour of the house, its grassy covering as opposed to thick and a few bags of bon bons. For this available to hire from the hotel at for beginners but is a popular meal within minutes. A dessert of It was a crisp, bright sunny day when Walking up to the grand, grade B-listed and wandered back downstairs into one forest, is thought to have been home to city dweller, it was also unexpectedly £10. challenge among hillwalkers. A chocolate orange mousse was an utter I set off in my battered Peugeot from venue, I was greeted by a number of of the various living rooms which was a convent and the Chapel of St Fyndoca. nice to be surrounded, if only briefly, huge underground hydro-electric delight. Glasgow, punching in the address on my opulent stone statues surrounding a bright and comfortable looking, with I’m told visitors who venture there often by busy streets and a bit of noise again Kilchurn Castle power station lies beneath its Satisfied, I went to bed and slept sat nav before making the two-and-a-half- small, circular courtyard. Ivy crawled up yellow squashy sofas and ornate gold spend hours examining the graveyard – a sharp contrast to the atmosphere at Built in 1450 by Sir Colin central corrie, which is also like a log in the four-poster, bigger and hour journey north. the sides of the grey stone country house, chairs. with large carved tombstones of knights Ardanaiseig. Campbell, the castle is one available for visitors to see. comfier than any bed I’d ever slept on. The route was idyllic, made even and walking through the ajar front door Outside, the building’s grandeur and warriors. After finishing off a bag of fish and of the most photographed I had been right – two days away in the more enjoyable by bright blue skies and felt like creeping into someone’s home was even more apparent. Designed by I planned to take a boat out the chips, temperatures outside began to in Scotland and an interesting Wildlife-spotting fresh country air had been better than sunshine all the way. After leaving the unexpectedly. Dark and quiet, I wasn’t architect William Burn, the house is following day to look at them myself, drop and I made my way back to the place to visit. Be warned – access Enjoy trying to find some of Scotland’s spending a week off in the city, without motorway and wending my way through sure if I had turned up too early and one of only two of his works in the area. however, when I woke it was grey and hotel in time for dinner. is sometimes blocked by high levels most interesting wildlife while relaxing in a doubt. fields, towns and villages, taking my stood awkwardly in the hallway for a few Unlike the nearby Gallanach House, windy, and was advised against sailing. The first night I had been treated to a of water, so best keep an eye on the hotel grounds, or taking a quiet walk usual few wrong turns, I eventually minutes. A smiling face soon appeared Ardanaiseig’s past and current owners Bikes were also available for guests to delicious venison dish accompanied by the weather before venturing there. around the many forests in the area. A Hannah Rodger was a guest at the found my destination set deep in the from behind a dark wooden door nearby have left the outside of the building use, however I didn’t fancy my chances perfectly cooked vegetables and potatoes, It is around an hour’s drive from few to put on your checklist to start with Ardanaiseig Hotel, Kilchrenan by countryside. Surrounded by fields and and introduced himself as Paul, one of relatively unchanged while the inside cycling up a windy single track, so I took with a sweet red wine sauce. Although Ardanaiseig, or half an hour by boat include the greater spotted woodpecker, Taynuilt, Argyll, www.ardanaiseig.com forest, it seemed like the perfect spot to few staff who worked at the venue all has been adapted to suit its current a 45-minute drive further east to Oban. there had been only two choices for each across the loch. Scottish wildcat and chequered skipper. 01866 833 333. Room prices start from spend a few relaxing days, catching up on year round. incarnation as a hotel. The town was everything you’d expect course on the menu, the meal hadn’t £185 per night.