Colourful CADIZ Man does not live on bread alone, as the saying goes… but it is also helps to have a good time. In Cadiz, you can enjoy yourself and a gastronomy tour of the province is a truly colourful experience. To get your day off to a good start, your breakfast will need to be the green of the Sierra olive oil or with a hint of the pink of paprika dripping on the Telera brown bread made in La Janda... Then, you will have to walk and browse in those delightful shops where every brick can tell a story or visit those dim wineries with the sleepy atmosphere where the wine is left to rest. Then, a real must is a visit to the local markets... which are brimming with colours. Before lunch, stop at one of the sidewalk cafés and watch the people pass by as you linger over a golden glass of Jerez. Ask the waiter for some green or black olives, either will do. And get ready to set off to discover the best tapas in each city. A little bit here and there. This is what tapas, to use the proper term, are all about. Golden fried fish or red tomato-based stews, with a few crunchy breadsticks, followed by a priñaca salad, fish baked with vegetables from Rota or some delicious “streaky” pork scratchings from Chiclana are just some of the dishes with a variety of flavours and colours. There is no black and white in Cadiz. They say that sunsets in Cadiz are very special and should be enjoyed over something “sweet”, which here means a caramel custard in Jerez or Tarifa, almond cookies in Medina, an ice-cream in the Plaza del Cabildo in Sanlúcar and a glass of Moscatel wine from Chipiona, which should be chilled, of course. You won’t find it in any book, but if you start your evening with king prawns and a glass of Manzanilla wine, you will not forget that day. Linger over your dinner. Start with seared Barbate Bluefin tuna with fresh vegetables from Conil. Acorn-fed pork or Retinta veal, with a Villaluenga Payoyo cheese sauce, are just of the delights waiting for you. Finish your meal with the house dessert and a good glass of brandy. It is up to you when you turn in… but you will be ready for more the next day. Pepe Monforte Cadiz Tapas galore The tapa was not invented in Cadiz, but it is re-invented here every day. You will fi nd people at the bar asking the waiter for “a little” of this and “a little” of that. Going for tapas in Cadiz is the best way to discover the city as you get double the pleasure for the same price… Cadiz has something to offer all year round. Breakfast A traditional spot Foodies must-sees The early morning Two olives for you. La A mouth-watering sight. hustle and bustle. You Manzanilla, The display of cakes and can enjoy the only wine sweets in the window crunchy merchant’s left of Maype, a cake shop churros (a in the city, is located in Calle Corneta type of to be found in Soto Guerrero, will really Spanish Calle Feduchy. make your mouth water. doughnuts) It sells vinos en at La Marina, rama (wines of the next to the croissants last vintage) straight recently refurbished from the barrels in the main market. Then, shop. just across the road, Maype there are the excellent croissants at La Poeme. Then, there is Magerit, Bar Brim is a really a wine shop with a unusual place on Calle wide range of local Compañia. They only wines in La Alameda, serve coffee and you next to El Balandro have to drink it standing restaurant. The La up, but its aroma and Laguna neighbourhood fl avour are out of this is home to La Alacena, world. A real must to the only shop dedicated start the morning are exclusively to Cadiz’s the fi sh stands in the gastronomy and where city’s central market. you can fi nd 300 products from around the province. Magerit La Manzanilla And you will be served two olives, no more, with your glass. La Poeme 2 TO PO LI Something sweet NO The shop window brimming with things to tempt you. The Horno de Don Pan, a cake shop with a window display full of things to tempt you, from fruit tarts to Balandro Bar traditional rolls, is in the main Avenue.The Los Italianos ice cream parlour is in the old city and its speciality is its topolino, vanilla ice-cream covered in TAPAS chocolate crunch. Las tortillitas de camarones Meals with a view (shrimp fritters) Lunch against a At El Faro bar background of bell Las albóndigas towers. The gallo en salsa de roquefort rebozado (battered (meatballs in Roquefort John Dory) at Bar cheese sauce) Terraza is unique. The At La Perola John Dory is a fi sh and El calamar relleno this is what Cadiz is all (stuffed squid) about. Or why don’t you At La Rambla enjoy one of the more El milhojas de salmón than 30 different rice (Salmon Millefeuilles) dishes, many of them At El Balandro with a seafaring fl avour, Las ortiguillas fritas at the Arrocería La (fried sea urchins) Pepa, overlooking the At Casa Tino beach along the Paseo Marítimo. Los Italianos TORTILLITAS SALMÓN CALAMAR Bar Terraza More suggestions on pages 5, 6 and 7. 3 Real musts Mackerel, tomato soup and Cadiz nougat. Mackerel with piriñaca, a salad of tomato, onions and peppers, dressed with sherry vinegar and oil, and the most typical oup summer dish tomato s in Cadiz. El Pajaro Pinto bar, in Plaza Tío fi sh fryers de la Tiza square, is the place to enjoy this dish. The photo Where to linger over a meal Then, there is tomato soup in winter. Lumi The establishment of Romero serves it at the José Manuel Córdoba, San Antonio restaurant. one of the wizards of Cadiz’s cuisine, is opposite El Ventorrillo del Chato, on the pan de Cádiz Cortadura beach. It is the ideal place to discover all there is to know about fi sh cuisine. And fi nish off the meal with nougat or pan de Las Flores In the old part of Cádiz from Horno de La Marinated fl owers. Cadiz, El Faro, the Gloria. The fi sh fryers are the establishment that fl agship establishments exalts Cadiz cuisine, is of the province of Cadiz. well worth a visit. The most famous one The is in the Plaza de las imagination Flores, home to the of El Balandro fl ower market, in the or the old city, where you can surprises buy paper cones fi lled at La with freshly-fried fi sh. Despensa Ask for the cazón en are also adobo (fried marinated recommended. dogfi sh). El Chato José Manuel Córdoba 4 ALL ABOUT CÁDIZ Breakfast Foodies must-sees A traditional spot Churros doughnuts for Mantequería Miña Terra Taberna La Manzanilla breakfast or tea. Wide range of traditional Glasses of Manzanilla wine and Cafetería La Marina groceries. sherries served straight from the 1 Las Flores sq. T 956 222 397. 7 Cristobal Colón st. T 956 285 cask. 19 Feduchy st. T 956 285 Closed on Sundays. 903. Closed on Sundays. 401. Closed on Saturdays and Sunday evenings. Pastries and rolls enjoyed on Magerit, wine store its sidewalk café next to the Alameda de Apodaca market Next to the El Balandro Something sweet Pastelería cafetería La Poeme restaurant. T 956 227 994. 3 Alcalá Galiano st. T 956 214 Closed on Sundays. Horno de Don Pan 332. Closed on Mondays. Treats to make your mouth water Mercado Central de Abastos in its window display. Just coffee…. but what coffee Recently refurbished. Stalls 44 Ana de Viya av. Bar Brim brimming with produce, T 956 266 206. Open every day. 3 Compañía st. particularly fi sh. La Libertad square. Only open in Heladería Los Italianos the morning. Closed on Sundays. Topolinos and traditional ice-creams. 11-13 San José st. Bombonería Maype (corner with Ancha st.). T 956 Sweets and chocolates 221 897. Closed from November Churros doughnuts only in the to March. morning. Freidor Las Flores II Heladería El Mantecao 1 Brasil st. (Reina Victoria). Ice-creams with an imaginative T 956 261 155. Open every day. range of fl avours. San Francisco sq. Open every day. Lively sidewalk café. Wide range of dishes. De Pablo The photo 73 Andalucía Av. T 956 284 409. Freiduría Las Flores I 3 Corneta Soto Guerrero st. T Fried fi sh You can buy it in paper Churros and porras doughnuts 956 214 652. Open every day. cones to take away or enjoy it in with hot chocolate. the restaurant. Maylu Casa Hidalgo 4 Las Flores sq. T 956 226 112. 5 Jerez Sq. T 659 237 532. Individual empanadas Open every day. Breakfasts and teas. Open gallegas (tuna pasties). every day. 8 Catedral sq. Casa Manteca T 956 287 603. Closed Mollete bread rolls with on Mondays. pringá de la berza (stewpot spread) overlooking La Caleta La Alacena Cosas de beach. Comé Quilla Over 300 products and wines Next to Santa Catalina Castle. T from Cadiz. 10 Santa Teresa st. T 956 226 466. Closed on Mondays. 956 255 675. Closed on Saturday afternoons and Sundays. Churros doughnuts Bar Zona Franca Horno La Gloria In an industrial zone, but its Turrón de Cádiz (Cadiz nougat). doughnuts are excellent. Zona 1 Gloria st.