Colourful CADIZ

Man does not live on alone, as the saying goes… but it is also helps to have a good time. In Cadiz, you can enjoy yourself and a tour of the province is a truly colourful experience. To get your day off to a good start, your will need to be the green of the Sierra oil or with a hint of the pink of dripping on the Telera brown bread made in ... Then, you will have to walk and browse in those delightful shops where every brick can tell a story or visit those dim wineries with the sleepy atmosphere where the is left to rest. Then, a real must is a visit to the local markets... which are brimming with colours. Before , stop at one of the sidewalk cafés and watch the people pass by as you linger over a golden glass of Jerez. Ask the waiter for some green or black , either will do. And get ready to set off to discover the best in each city. A little bit here and there. This is what tapas, to use the proper term, are all about. Golden or red tomato-based , with a few crunchy breadsticks, followed by a priñaca salad, fish baked with from Rota or some delicious “streaky” scratchings from Chiclana are just some of the dishes with a variety of flavours and colours. There is no black and white in Cadiz. They say that sunsets in Cadiz are very special and should be enjoyed over something “sweet”, which here means a caramel custard in Jerez or , in Medina, an ice-cream in the Plaza del Cabildo in Sanlúcar and a glass of Moscatel wine from , which should be chilled, of . You won’t find it in any book, but if you start your evening with king and a glass of wine, you will not forget that day. Linger over your dinner. Start with seared Bluefin with fresh vegetables from Conil. Acorn-fed pork or Retinta veal, with a Villaluenga Payoyo , are just of the delights waiting for you. Finish your with the house dessert and a good glass of brandy. It is up to you when you turn in… but you will be ready for more the next day.

Pepe Monforte Cadiz

Tapas galore

The tapa was not invented in Cadiz, but it is re-invented here every day. You will fi nd people at the bar asking the waiter for “a little” of this and “a little” of that. Going for tapas in Cadiz is the best way to discover the city as you get double the pleasure for the same price… Cadiz has something to offer all year round.

Breakfast A traditional spot Foodies must-sees The early morning Two olives for you. La A mouth-watering sight. hustle and bustle. You Manzanilla, The display of cakes and can enjoy the only wine sweets in the window crunchy merchant’s left of Maype, a cake shop (a in the city, is located in Calle Corneta type of to be found in Soto Guerrero, will really Spanish Calle Feduchy. make your mouth water. ) It sells vinos en at La Marina, rama ( of the next to the last vintage) straight recently refurbished from the barrels in the main market. Then, shop. just across the road, Maype there are the excellent croissants at La Poeme. Then, there is Magerit, Bar Brim is a really a wine shop with a unusual place on Calle wide range of local Compañia. They only wines in La Alameda, serve coffee and you next to El Balandro have to drink it standing restaurant. The La up, but its aroma and Laguna neighbourhood fl avour are out of this is home to La Alacena, world. A real must to the only shop dedicated start the morning are exclusively to Cadiz’s the fi sh stands in the gastronomy and where city’s central market. you can fi nd 300 products from around the province. Magerit

La Manzanilla And you will be served two olives, no more, with your glass.

La Poeme 2 TO PO LI Something sweet NO The shop window brimming with things to tempt you. The Horno de Don Pan, a cake shop with a window display full of things to tempt you, from fruit tarts to

Balandro Bar traditional rolls, is in the main Avenue.The Los Italianos ice cream parlour is in the old city and its speciality is its topolino, vanilla ice-cream covered in TAPAS chocolate crunch.

Las tortillitas de camarones with a view ( ) Lunch against a At El Faro bar background of bell Las albóndigas towers. The gallo en salsa de roquefort rebozado (battered

( in Roquefort John Dory) at Bar cheese sauce) Terraza is unique. The At La Perola John Dory is a fi sh and El calamar relleno this is what Cadiz is all (stuffed squid) about. Or why don’t you At La Rambla enjoy one of the more El milhojas de salmón than 30 different (Salmon Millefeuilles) dishes, many of them At El Balandro with a seafaring fl avour, Las ortiguillas fritas at the Arrocería La (fried sea urchins) Pepa, overlooking the At Casa Tino beach along the Paseo Marítimo. Los Italianos

TORTILLITAS

SALMÓN

CALAMAR

Bar Terraza More suggestions on pages 5, 6 and 7. 3 Real musts

Mackerel, tomato and Cadiz nougat. Mackerel with piriñaca, a salad of tomato, onions and peppers, dressed with and oil, and the most typical oup summer dish tomato s in Cadiz. El Pajaro Pinto bar, in Plaza Tío fi sh fryers de la Tiza square, is the place to enjoy this dish. The photo Where to linger over a meal Then, there is tomato soup in winter. Lumi The establishment of Romero serves it at the José Manuel Córdoba, San Antonio restaurant. one of the wizards of Cadiz’s , is opposite El Ventorrillo del Chato, on the pan de Cádiz Cortadura beach. It is the ideal place to discover all there is to know about fi sh cuisine. And fi nish off the meal with nougat or pan de Las Flores In the old part of Cádiz from Horno de La Marinated fl owers. Cadiz, El Faro, the Gloria. The fi sh fryers are the establishment that fl agship establishments exalts Cadiz cuisine, is of the province of Cadiz. well worth a visit. The most famous one The is in the Plaza de las imagination Flores, home to the of El Balandro fl ower market, in the or the old city, where you can surprises buy paper cones fi lled at La with freshly-fried fi sh. Despensa Ask for the cazón en are also (fried marinated recommended. dogfi sh). El Chato José Manuel Córdoba

4 ALL ABOUT CÁDIZ

Breakfast Foodies must-sees A traditional spot

Churros doughnuts for Mantequería Miña Terra Taberna La Manzanilla breakfast or . Wide range of traditional Glasses of Manzanilla wine and Cafetería La Marina groceries. served straight from the 1 Las Flores sq. T 956 222 397. 7 Cristobal Colón st. T 956 285 cask. 19 Feduchy st. T 956 285 Closed on Sundays. 903. Closed on Sundays. 401. Closed on Saturdays and Sunday evenings. and rolls enjoyed on Magerit, wine store its sidewalk café next to the Alameda de Apodaca market Next to the El Balandro Something sweet Pastelería cafetería La Poeme restaurant. T 956 227 994. 3 Alcalá Galiano st. T 956 214 Closed on Sundays. Horno de Don Pan 332. Closed on Mondays. Treats to make your mouth water Mercado Central de Abastos in its window display. Just coffee…. but what coffee Recently refurbished. Stalls 44 Ana de Viya av. Bar Brim brimming with produce, T 956 266 206. Open every day. 3 Compañía st. particularly fi sh. La Libertad square. Only open in Heladería Los Italianos the morning. Closed on Sundays. Topolinos and traditional ice-creams. 11-13 San José st. Bombonería Maype (corner with Ancha st.). T 956 Sweets and chocolates 221 897. Closed from November Churros doughnuts only in the to March. morning. Freidor Las Flores II Heladería El Mantecao 1 Brasil st. (Reina Victoria). Ice-creams with an imaginative T 956 261 155. Open every day. range of fl avours. San Francisco sq. Open every day. Lively sidewalk café. Wide range of dishes. De Pablo The photo 73 Andalucía Av. T 956 284 409. Freiduría Las Flores I 3 Corneta Soto Guerrero st. T Fried fi sh You can buy it in paper Churros and porras doughnuts 956 214 652. Open every day. cones to take away or enjoy it in with hot chocolate. the restaurant. Maylu Casa Hidalgo 4 Las Flores sq. T 956 226 112. 5 Jerez Sq. T 659 237 532. Individual Open every day. and teas. Open gallegas (tuna pasties). every day. 8 Catedral sq. Casa Manteca T 956 287 603. Closed bread rolls with on Mondays. pringá de la berza (stewpot spread) overlooking La Caleta La Alacena Cosas de beach. Comé Quilla Over 300 products and wines Next to Santa Catalina Castle. T from Cadiz. 10 Santa Teresa st. T 956 226 466. Closed on Mondays. 956 255 675. Closed on Saturday afternoons and Sundays. Churros doughnuts Bar Zona Franca Horno La Gloria In an industrial zone, but its Turrón de Cádiz (Cadiz nougat). doughnuts are excellent. Zona 1 Gloria st. T 956 270 481. Franca Roundabout. T 956 254 Open every day. 144. Closed on Saturdays. Pancracio Emparedados (hot sandwiches) Sweets and chocolates Very popular. Cold cuts served fi lled with different spreads 5 García Escamez st. in paper at the counter of an old Avenida 28 T 956 252 451. grocery store. 28 Ana de Viya Av. T 856 173 Closed on Saturdays and Corralón de los Carros, corner 159. Also serves tapas. Closed Sundays. with San Félix. T 956 213 603. on Sundays. Thousands of miniatures Museo del Vino y los Toros. Tapas Unusual museum with tiny bottles of wine, some of which are over a Tortillitas de camarones (shrimp hundred years old. fritters) 19 Feduchy st. Barra del restaurante El Faro T 956 289 716. 15 San Felix st. T 956 211 068. Open every day. Also famous for its paté de

5 ALL ABOUT CÁDIZ

cabracho (scorpion-fi sh paté). Carrillada en salsa Lardones de pollo con salsa Open every day. (pork cheek ) de (breaded chicken tenders with Jabugo ham Ortiguillas fritas 4 Zorrilla st. T 856 sauce) (fried sea urchins) 072 242. Meats and Vinos y tapas Sur Casa Tino from the 5 Fernández 25 de la Rosa st. T 856 070 125. Sierra de . Ballesteros st. T 856 Sea urchins are caught in the Open every day. 075 582. Unusual Straits of . Closed on tapas and portions. Mondays. Menudo Excellent wine list. (stewed tripe) Closed on Sunday Albóndigas en salsa de Casa Castillo evenings and all day Roquefort (meatballs in 6-8 Zorrilla st. T 654 504 939. Mondays. Roquefort cheese sauce) Closed on Tuesdays. Bar La Perola Papas Criollas (tiny yellow 34 Canovás del Castillo st. T Albóndigas caseras potatoes) 856 076 675. Closed on Sunday (homemade meatballs) Mesón Las Americas evenings. All day Sunday in July Bar El Malagueño 1 Ramón y Cajal st. T 956 and August. 5 Mesón st. T 956 262 423. 224 410. Argentinean dishes Homemade stews. Closed on with hints of Cadiz. Closed on Lasaña de espinacas Sundays. Sundays from mid-June to mid- (spinach lasagne) September. Ground fl oor Restaurant El Aljibe Morena en adobo (marinated 25 Plocia st. T 956 266 656. moray) Taquitos de dorada frita en Innovative tapas. Open every day. Bodeguita El Adobo tempura (tempura sea bream) 4 Rosario st. T 626 217 930. Barrasiete Ensaladilla de ajillo ( Moray is a fi sh with jelly-like fl esh 17 Amílcar Barca st. T 956 263 salad with ) and a rather strange fl avour. 263. For lunch and . Wide Bar Piccola Closed on Tuesdays. range of fi sh that the customers 4 San José st., just off Mina can choose for the to cook. square. T 956 225 099. Closed gallega de atún Closed on Mondays except in on Sundays. (tuna pasty) August. Bar Noya Jamón ibérico (cured ham) 20 Sopranis st. T 956 274 482. Ultramarinos El Veedor Closed on Sunday evenings. Meals with a view Closed in August. Bar Terraza Calamares rellenos (stuffed 3 La Catedral sq. T 956 265 squid) 391. Traditional cuisine. Bar La Rambla Gallo rebozadas (battered 11 Sopranis st. T 956 260 358. John Dory) Closed on Fantastic tapas bar. Closed on Mondays. Also on Tuesdays. Sundays in July and August. Bastones de berenjena con (Aubergine fi ngers Restaurante Elcano with cream) Centro Naútico Arte Serrano’s bar Elcano (next to 2 Marítimo av. (Reina Victoria). T Carranza bridge). 956 277 258. Open every day. T 956 205 099. Famous for its rice dishes and Carne mechá (Larded pork) . Magnifi cent views El Nebraska over the Bay. Open every day. Muñoz Arenillas st. corner with Brasil. T 956 250 507. Caracoles Arrocería La Pepa Veedor st. corner with Vea (snails) and (tiny snails) 14 Marítimo av. Murguía. T 956 212 694. You when in season. Closed on T 956 263 821. Overlooking the really must try the ham, and Wednesdays. beach. Excellent range of rice cheese. There are several special dishes. Open every day. with chorizo Flambeado de , and ham, or spinach and cheese. langostino y puerro con crema Open every day. de foie (pasta, king and leek dish) Queso de cabra gratinado con Show de Tapas cebollitas glaseadas (Grilled 2 Marítimo av. T 627 959 587. goat’s cheese with glazed Closed on Tuesdays. spring onions) Bar El 10 de Veedor Ensaladilla de pulpo (potato Veedor st. corner with Vea salad with octopus) Murguía. T 956 225 222. Closed Di que sí on Sunday evenings and all day Emilio Castelar st. T 856 174 200. Monday. Closed on Mondays.

6 ALL ABOUT CÁDIZ

Restaurante La Despensa along with duck, beef, ostrich, Real musts 9-10 Escritor Ramón Solis sq. kangaroo and typical local (opposite the Santa María del cuisine. Open every day. Sopa Tomate (tomate soup) Mar beach). T 956 265 320. Restaurante San Antonio Modern cuisine. Always full. Restaurante Achuri 9 San Antonio circus. T 956 212 Range of dishes from meat to 7 Plocia st. T 956 253 613. 239. Traditional cuisine from Cadiz: fi sh, with delicious . tomato soup, ropavieja (chicken, Open every day. beef, potato and stew) or poleá for dessert are served here. Restaurante El Faro Open every day. 15 San Félix st. T 956 211 068. Founded by Gonzalo Córdoba, Caballa con piriñaca (mackerel the father of modern Cadiz with tomato, onion and pepper cuisine, and now run by his salad) daughter, Mayte. Fresh local Bar Pájaro Pinto produce used for modern dishes. The only surviving restaurant of 12 Tío de la Tiza sq. T 956 212 The fi sh dishes are its speciality. the Basque-Andalusian trend 082. Sidewalk café that is very Leave room for the desserts. that emerged in the 1970s. The popular on summer’s evenings. menu features traditional dishes, Also serves papas aliñás (potato Restaurante El Balandro but prepared with true skill. Its salad) and fried fi sh. Open from 22 Alameda de Apodaca. white rice and its merluza en May to September. T 956 220 992. salsa verde (hake in green sauce) The restaurant overlooks the are real musts. Closed for dinner whole of the Bay of Cadiz. from Sunday to Wednesday. Where to linger over a meal Modern cuisine and hearty portions. The desserts are La Cigarrera Ventorrillo de El Chato also worth trying. Open 2 Plocia st. Cádiz - San Fernando road. T every day. T 956 284 792. 956 257 116. Closed on Sunday Traditional dishes evenings. Restaurante La using outstanding raw Bellota ingredients. Closed Restaurante El Aljibe 29 Cayetano del on Sunday evenings 25 Plocia st. T 956 264 836. Toro av. and Mondays. Imaginative . T 956 266 752. Open every day. Famous for its La Bodega cod dishes, its 23 Marítimo av. Sopranis menu features T 956 275 904. 5 Sopranis st. few, but delicious Its pollo a la canilla (fried T 956 284 310. dishes, using the best spicy chicken) is an icon Unusual dishes using raw ingredients. Closed on of Cadiz’s cuisine. Outstanding local produce. Original Mondays. fi sh and original salads. Open and excellent wine every day. list. Closed on Cadiz Hotel Management Sunday evenings and School Casa Orrequia Mondays. 2 Alameda Marqués de Comillas. Juan Carlos I av. (opposite the T 956 808 002. Excellent service Carranza stadium). Lumen restaurante and innovative local cuisine T 856 173 111. Varela park. featuring the latest techniques. The only restaurant in the city T 956 273 022. The desserts are outstanding. that serves game. Its arroz con Author cuisine. Fusion Only open for lunch from conejo (rabbit and rice dish) of cultures and very Tuesday to Friday. is famous. Closed on Sunday imaginative dishes. Menu evenings. regularly changes. Cervecería La Marea 1 Marítimo av. (Reina Victoria). T Arsenio Manila 956 280 347. Local seafood, fi sh 12 Marítimo av. and rice dishes. Open every day. T 956 076 744. A unique setting where you can Cervecería Baro eat imaginative and modern Marítimo av. (opposite Hotel dishes until the early hours of the Playa Victoria). morning. Then, you can linger T 956 257 957. Seafood and over a drink here. Overlooking fried fi sh bar overlooking the the beach. Open every day. beach. Prawn potato salad and a delicious tomato soup with king prawns. Open every day.

Restaurante La Fondue 27 Marítimo av. T 956 258 004. A delightful sidewalk café. Central European dishes with fondues and smoked fi sh,

7 The city of tidal San inlets Fernando

Inlets, which fl ood at high tide, surround San Fernando. Seafood features heavily in its cuisine with some of the most unusual specialities to be found in the province. Jot down these names: cañaillas (sea snails), camarones (), bienmesabe (deep-fried marinated fi sh), lenguados (sole), lisas (grey mullet). And even if you might forget them, we are sure your taste-buds won’t.

A traditional spot

Antonio’s stall is in Calle Ancha, right in the city centre, where you can watch them fry their delicious crisps. Buy some boiled shrimps or a portion of shellfi sh from one of the street stalls and then wash it down with a beer from La Gran Vía Bar.

fi sh, cázon (dogfi sh) Foodies must-sees in vinegar, garlic and In summer, Compuertas cumin. The fi sh is then organises a route that deep-fried and served in takes the visitors through paper cones. the El Estanquillo salt marshes, where they The despeques, or the discover the art of catching the fi sh tidal inlets, and that live in the tidal learn about inlets, take place the history from the end of and culture October to the end of salt. The of December. Sole, crips trip ends with an grey mullet, sea bass, La Venta Vargas is eels or snook can then famous for its papas opportunity to taste a delicious stew make be bought from San aliñas (cold potato Fernando market. You salad drizzled with using freshly-caught fi sh from the inlets. can usually fi nd them at ) or tortillitas Antonio El Málaga’s stall. de camarones (shrimp San Fernando is the city fritters). Camarón de of fried fi sh bars. El Déan la Isla, the famous is the best known and it singer, was specialises in marinating fi rst discovered there. bienmesabe, fi lets of stall El Málaga’s

8 TAPAS

Tortillón de patatas (Spanish ) At La Gallega Tortillitas de camarones (shrimp fritters) At El Bar León Pepito de fi letitos al Tío Pepe (grilled pork loin sandwich) At La Mar de Fresquita

Papas aliñás (cold potato Puente de Hierro salad drizzled with olive oil) At Cañas y adobo Where to linger over a meal Meals with a view Tomate con escabeche

de atún (marinated tuna La Marisma in Puente de Hierro with tomato) the Gallineras restaurant is in quite a At El Sotanillo neighbourhood is spectacular setting. famous for its fried It is in a small marina redbanded sea-bream, where the local snook and sea bass, fi shermen bring their which are catches. perfectly Its specialities include crispy grilled snook, sea bass on the and white sea-bream. TORTILLÓN outside and juicy inside. You should start with

PEPITO fried pink shrimps and don’t forget to ask what the fi sh stew of the day is. Other recommended spots are Los Tarantos or El Asador de La Isla, which specialises in PAPAS meats and salt cod. La Marisma

La Marisma More suggestions on page 10. 9 ALL ABOUT SAN FERNANDO

Venta Vargas El bodegón de Miguel Breakfast Juan Vargas roundabout 27 Almirante León Herrero st. A wide range of choice T 956 881 622. Closed on T 956 899 903. Reyes Católicos Mondays. Elaborate tapas. Closed on Reyes Católicos av. (over the Tuesdays. parking). T 956 899 860. Something sweet Croquetas del Telera rye bread from La Cartuja La Mallorquina (stewpot ) de Jerez roadside bar, pork scratchings, and oils to 42 Real st. T 956 892 162. La Pastora El Naca spread on the bread. Pleasant Traditional desserts. You can La Pastora sq. Pleasant terrace terrace. Open every day. enjoy one with a coffee on its and homemade tapas and half side walk café, located right portions. Open every day. in the heart of the city. Open Foodies must-sees every day. Meals with a view Canned products Restaurante Puente Hierro Ultramarinos La Cita Tapas 95 Real st. T 956 881 126. La Carraca road (next to the Tortillón de patatas Traditional groceries with a wide Hierro Bridge). T 856 105 036. () range of wines, canned and cured Open every day. products. Closed on Saturday Bar La Gallega afternoons and Sundays. Las Vacas sq. T 956 882 560. Where to linger over a meal Always very busy. Outstanding Fresh produce tapas menu. Closed on Los Tarantos Mercado Central de Abastos Mondays. 53 Luis Milena st. T 956 881 Cayetano del Toro st. 272. Traditional stews and fi sh. Tortillitas de camarones T 956 944 295. Recently built. A delightful spot and a real (shrimp fritters) Good stalls, particularly the fi sh institution in the Bay of Cadiz. ones. Open in the mornings from Bar León Closed on Sundays. Monday to Saturday. Las Vacas sq. (opposite to bar La Gallega). Restaurante Asador la Isla Flor de Sal sea salt 7 Calderón de la Barca st. T Pepito de fi letitos al Tío Pepe Salinas San Vicente 956 880 835. Specialises in (Grilled pork loin sandwich) La Carraca road. meat and cod. Creative cuisine. T 956 881 918. Flor de sal (salt La Mar de Fresquita Known for its corazones cream) is the fi nest layer of sea 7 Luis Milena st. T 956 880 347. de alcachofas con bacalao salt that forms on the surface of This sandwich is made using a (artichoke hearts with cod). the salt pans. It has more subtle pork fi llet seasoned in a garlic, Closed on Sunday evenings and fl avours than normal salt. You oil and sherry sauce. It is then all day Mondays. can buy it direct from this salt toasted and served warm. La Marisma company, but it is better to call Papas aliñás (cold potato beforehand to book a visit. They 8 Buen Pastor st. T 956 898 salad drizzled with olive oil) also organise group meals. 502.Closed on Tuesdays that Cañas y adobo are not bank holidays and Bienmesabe 38 Real st. Excellent range of Sunday evenings only in winter. (deep-fried, marinated fi sh) tapas. The bienmesabe (deep- Casa Pepe Freidor El Deán fried, marinated fi sh) is also 57 Real st. T 650 588 957. very good. It has a fried-fi sh 497 Buen Pastor st. (next to Open every day in the evening. takeaway next door. Closed on Camposoto beach). T 956 487 Tuesdays. 498. Fish from the Bay and Visits to the salt pans tidal inlets when in season Tomate con escabeche de atún Compuertas (November). Fried and grilled. (marinated tuna with tomato) T 617 338 292. Check date Very popular. The almejas al Tío availability beforehand. El Sotanillo Pepe (Clams in Tio Pepe sherry) 3 Tomás del Valle st. T 956 895 are particularly popular. Closed 706.Unusual tapas. Closed on on Mondays, except bank A traditional spot Tuesdays and Sunday evenings. holidays. Crisps and Churros Doughnuts Churrería Antonio Huevos de choco a la gallega Restaurante Macarena (cuttlefi sh roe seasoned with 20 Ancha st. T 956 895 105. 9 Colegio Naval Sacramento st. olive oil and paprika) The crisps are freshly fried in the T 956 894 553. Seafood stews morning on Mondays to Fridays Casa Miguel and a wide range of local fi sh. and in the evenings on Mondays 49 San Onofre st. T. 956 891 Open every day. to Saturdays. Churros are 676.The tapas menu is changed El Fogón de Mariana made on Saturday and Sunday daily but always features mornings. some fried fi sh. There is also 11 General García de la Herrán a restaurant in the inside st. T 956 881 767. Elegant La Gran Vía courtyard. Closed on Sunday restaurant specialising in meat 2 El Rey sq. T 956 885 232. mornings in July and August. with a large bar area that serves This century-old bar is open every tapas. Known for its dishes Filetes de estero con espuma day. The shrimp and seafood featuring free-range Iberian de camarones (Filets of local stand is usually open at weekends pork. fi sh and shrimp foam).

10 Moscatel wine and butifarra Chiclana sausage de la Frontera

Chiclana combined sweet and savoury long before was invented. You can try the Butifarra sausage washed down with a refreshing glass of the local Moscatel wine at the Chiclana wineries. Follow this with a fritada de pescados (fried fi sh platter), some marisco (shellfi sh) and then fi nish your meal with one of the excellent desserts. And you should end your day at the local marina and watch the sunset behind Sancti Petri Castle, which is also well worth a visit.

scratchings). Just ask for Foodies must-sees the Castillo and Manuel Start the day with a Alcantara stalls to try few churros (Spanish them for yourself. doughnuts) at the La Española Café in Chiclana’s Nuevo Market A traditional spot or new market. A real must is the trio that The Bodega del Chiclana is famous for: Sanatorio winery in butifarra sausage, Chiclana serves fl avoured with a golden-hued cinnamon, Moscatel wine chicharrones called Gloria, de carne (pork which is delicious scratchings) and served with butifarra and Gloria muscatel tocino de cerdo butifarra sausage. fritos en manteca You will think you have The photo (pork belly fried in lard), travelled back in time, along with the latest as the is served dish to come out of this on transparent Duralex market, the chicharrones plates which are nearly especiales (special museum pieces.

Manguita is the place to eat seafood in Chiclana. The tables on its terrace are usually full. Try the langostinos de Chiclana, the king prawns from the local tidal inlets, when they are in season.

More suggestions on page 13. 11 Something sweet Finish your meal with a slice of the almond tart made by the nuns at the Convento de las Angustinas Recoletas in Calle Larga. But if you feel like something a little less traditional, try one of the cakes at the Selva Dulce bakery, run La Tapería La by Thomas Grzib, a German who has settled in Chiclana. TAPAS Antonia Butrón is famous for her savoury pastries and we highly recommend the ham, bacon and date El crujiente de chocos pasty. (Crispy Squid) At El Salero Solomillo en salsa mozárabe (Pork Loin in a Sweet Wine, Pine Nut and Raisin Sauce) At la Tapería Serranito (thin sliced cured ham, and thin, pan-fried pork chop served with a whole fried green pepper) At del Trigo Carne al toro (beef stew) At Casa Alfonso Langostino envuelto Antonia Butrón en bacon con ali oli (King Prawn wrapped in Meals with a view bacon and served with garlic mayonnaise) The bar at the Club At Los Candiles Naútico de Sancti Petri. It overlooks the moorings at the yacht club, just outside the city. Choose one of the so-called rock fi sh: urta (red band bream), pargo (snapper) to name just two that are fried or CRUJIENTES baked in the oven... Sancti Petri at its purest. Club Náutico

12 ALL ABOUT CHICLANA

Obrador casero de Antonia Mesón Los Candiles Breakfast Butrón Doctor Pedro Vélez st. corner 7 Jesús Nazareno st. T 956 401 with Laurel. T 956 538 084. Crispy doughnuts 094. Open every day, except Traditional and innovative Horno La Española Saturday and Sunday evenings. tapas. Very popular. Closed on 1 Arroyuelo st. T 956 407 809. It also has a coffee shop. Mondays. Delicious doughnuts. Near to the market. Available mornings and Selva Dulce Tortilla rellena afternoons every day in winter, La Vid st. (La Fuente residential). (stuffed Spanish omelette) except on Saturdays and Sundays. El Copo 3. T 956 536 493. El de los Pintxos Only a.m. in July and August. They Open mornings and evenings Arroyuelo st. T 956 402 195. also serve coffee and pastries. every day. Basque tapas. Over 50 different dishes. Closed on Sundays. Foodies must-sees The photo Where to linger over a meal Salinas Marisquería Manguita Environmental Resources Centre 1 Huerta del st. T 956 La Sartén Salinas de Chiclana 401 930. Open every day. Esturión st. Atlántico Salina Santa María de Jesús residential. Barrosa beach. T (Camino de los Esteros, next to 956 494 207. Uses seasonal polígono Urbisur). T 956 538 126. Meals with a view market produce. Wide menu Natural salt pans open to visitors. featuring fi sh dishes. Leave You can visit the salt museum Bar del Club Naútico de room for the desserts. and see how it is produced, a salt Sancti Petri worker’s house and a lookout point. Sancti Petri town. Chantarela Its restaurant is open for dinner. T 956 495 428. Open every day Bellamar Comercial Center, in July and August. Only open local 3. Barrosa beach. T 956 Fino Palillo for lunch the rest of the year and 495 340. Branch in Chiclana of Bodegas Miguel Guerra closed on Mondays. the famous Madrid restaurant. 16 Mendaro st. T 956 400 501. Creative cuisine. Open every A dry sherry that is very popular day. in Chiclana, that is ideal with Tapas tapas. You can buy it from the Popeye winery. Open in the morning. Crujiente de Chocos (Crispy Squid) Km 4 La Barrosa road. El Salero T 956 494 424. Specialises in Fino Reguera (Las Cocheras de Vélez) seafood, fi sh and fi sh stews. Bodegas Vélez Soledad st. T 628 228 716. Open every day. 2 San Antonio st. T 956 536 589. Traditional and modern tapas Chiclana sherries. Open a.m. prepared by Ana María Rivera, Mayte I y II and p.m from Monday to Friday a chef who is also committed to Km 1 La Barrosa road. and only in the mornings on preserving the traditional dishes T 956 400 169. Very popular in Saturdays. Only a.m. from of Chiclana. Open every day. Chiclana. Mayte I is famous for Monday to Friday in July and its roast chicken and II for its August. Solomillón en salsa mozárabe fi sh. Mayte I closes on Mondays (Pork Loin in a Sweet Wine, and Mayte II on Wednesdays. Cured meat products, fi sh, fruit Pine Nut and Raisin Sauce) and vegetables La Tapería Venta Melilla Mercado Central de Abastos. Nueva st. T 956 407 921. Colada de Fuente Amarga, Bodegas square. Modern and traditional tapas. Chaparral road (next to Hotel Open in the mornings from Open every day. Meliá Sancti Petri golf course). Monday to Saturday. T 645 824 261. Serranito (thin sliced cured Charcoal-grilled meat. Closed ham, and thin, pan-fried pork on Mondays except from 20 A traditional spot chop served with a whole fried July to 20 September. green pepper) Bodegas El Sanatorio El Cerro del Trigo El Farito 1 Olivo st. 17 Hornaza st. T 956 534 090. Bellamar Comercial Centre. La T 956 400 756. Specialises in meat and cold cuts. Barrosa beach. T 956 494 414. Closed on Sunday evenings. Closed on Sundays. Traditional cuisine in a delightful setting. Open every Carne al toro (beef stew) day. Something sweet Mesón Casa Alfonso 15 Las Redes st. Polígono Al otro lado Pastelería La Chiclanera Urbisur. T 956 407 936. Centro Comercial Costa 1 Doctor Pedro Vélez st. Traditional tapas and portions. Sancti Petri. T 956 492 258. T 956 402 070. Open every day. Avant-garde cuisine prepared right before the customers. Convento de Jesús Nazareno Langostino envuelto en bacon Specialises in tapas in an Larga st. Morning and afternoon. con salsa ali oli (King Prawn informal setting. Closed on wrapped in bacon and served Mondays and Tuesdays. Only with garlic mayonnaise) on Tuesdays in July and August.

13 Fish, fi sh and more Puerto fi sh Real

Sole, clams, sea bass, muergos (razor clams), sargos (white seabream), squid, cazon en abodo (marinated dogfi sh)… is still the place for connoisseurs to enjoy the typical fi sh caught in the Bay of Cadiz. And mop up the sauce with some Yeye mini picos (breadsticks) or rolls from the bakery run by the heirs of Andrés Damián.

Real musts

There are three dishes that you must try in Puerto Real. Muergos either grilled at La Taberna de El Puerto or aliñado (in a dressing) at La Venta de El Chato. You should try partridge with pine nuts its perdiz a Foodies must-sees la piñoera (partridge The El Cohollero with pine bakery makes picos nuts). (bread sticks) the size of a And you do chickpea. not have to They are go very far to try crunchy the garbanzos con and are just langostinos (chick perfect to eat peas with King with fried fi sh. Prawns) at El Caballo Negro bar, a fusion And the dish that they Cooperative only make on Stall in the main Saturdays. market sells species such as lisa de estero (grey mullet) or anguilla (eel). And make sure you buy some dressed olives from Patricio before you leave the market.

razor clams olives at Patricio’s 14 Something sweet

The El Yaki cake shop sells Pastelitos de Belén, tartlets fi lled with crème patisserie that are a Portuguese speciality.

Las Golondrinas And the ideal place to try them is sitting on its sidewalk café overlooking the bay. Another speciality to try is the San Marcos de la TAPAS Puertorreleña cake.

La tortilla de berenjenas (aubergine omelette) At La Taberna El Fillo Las almejas a la marinera (clams cooked with onions, wine and paprika) At El Dorado Los daditos de pargo con ali oli (Fried porgy cubes served with garlic mayonnaise) At Las Golondrinas El pez espada al orégano (Swordfi sh with oregano) At Se Llama Tapa Carne a la matanza (grilled meat) At El Inesperado

Pastelitos de Belén

Where to linger over a meal Make a note of this telephone: 956 474 651, which is the number of El Fogón del Guanche. It is always full and you will need to make a TORTILLA reservation. Marcos Suarez produces there cuisine that is halfway between the and the Bay of Cadiz. If you want a more ALMEJAS romantic setting, you should chose La Albarizuela, a restaurant in an 18th-century palace. If the weather is good, ask for a table in CARNE the courtyard.

More suggestions on page 16. 15 Marcos Suárez Marcos ALL ABOUT PUERTO REAL

sandwiches and cold cuts. Live Tarta de San Marcos Breakfast Flamenco music on Thursday Pastelería La Portorrealeña. nights. Closed on Mondays. 59 Nueva road. Bar Arca Casa Ramón T 676 446 736. 135 La Plaza st. T 856 213 581. Almejas a la marinera (clams Traditional mollete rolls and cooked with onions, wine and country-style bread from . paprika) Where to linger over a meal Tapas and fried fi sh at lunch time. Bar El Dorado Closed on Saturday evenings and 10 Nueva st. T. 956 830 360. El Fogón del Guanche all day Sundays. Closed on Sunday evenings 19 Amargura st. T 956 474 651. and all day Mondays. Cazón en You can ask for half portions. Restaurante Las Canteras adobo (fried marinated dogfi sh). Booking recommended. Closed 8 La Constitución av. Hotel Las on Sunday evenings and all day Canteras. T 956 564 040. Daditos de pargo con alioli Mondays. Breakfast on the terrace overlooking (Fried porgy cubes served with the Las Canteras pine forest. Very garlic mayonnaise) Albarizuela pleasant spot for dinner. Bar Las Golondrinas 69 Teresa de Calcuta st. T 956 1 Factoría de Matagorda st. 830 593. Modern cuisine in T 956 804 502. The porgy is a 17th-century house. Make Foodies must-sees fried and served with garlic sure you leave room for the mayonnaise. You should also try desserts. Closed on Mondays. Mini picos Ye-ye the carrillada ibérica en salsa Cohollero bakery. (stewed pork cheek). Closed on Mesón La Plaza 185 Real st. T 956 833 107. Sundays in summer. 5 Soledad st. T 956 474 503. Specialises in meat. Innovative Pez espada al orégano recipes, such as the cheese Real st. 512 viviendas district - (Swordfi sh with oregano) . 39. T 956 475 200. Se llama Tapa Oval-shaped rolls. Ideal for 2 Victoria st. (next to Marítimo Venta El Chato toasting. Fernando bakery Av.) T 856 215 566. Tomato María Auxiliadora Av. (next to (Andrés Damián heirs). sauce fl avoured with oregano. Las Canteras). T 956 474 912. An Closed on Tuesdays. icon. Lenguados (sole), perdiz Aceitunas aliñás a la piñonera (partridge in pine Central Market - 68. T 956 363 Carne a la matanza (grilled meat) nut sauce) and almejas (clams). 501. “Las Mías” olives. More Bar El Inesperado Closed in the evening from commonly known as Patricio. Mª Auxiliadora Av. (next to Monday to Thursday and all day Freshly dressed every day. Medina road roundabout). T 956 Sundays. and gordales olives. 472 496. Meat stew with chips. Only open in the morning. Restaurante El Gordo La Marina Closed on Sundays. Ensaladilla de gambas (prawn 12 Muelle shore. T 956 834 754. potato salad) Famous for its clams, prawns and Fresh fi sh Cervecería El Barril fresh King Prawns. Tapas bars La Puntilla del Muelle Co- 6 Ancha st. T 956 472 521. with innovative dishes. operative Fishermen. Varied menu, with desserts. Central Market. La Taberna del Puerto Only open in the morning. Punta de solomillo a la 42 Muelle shore. T 956 830 390. Closed on Sundays. castellana (pork tenderloin Family-run restaurant featuring with garlic, Serrano ham and local fi sh. Closed on Mondays. ) Bar El Calvo El Jardín de Canalejas 79 De la Plaza st. T 956 472 012. 67 Vaqueros st. T 956 830 Founded in 1814. Closed on 938. Eating the berza de Sundays. judias verdes and calabaza churros with coff ee (meat stew with green beans Calamares rellenos de la huerta and pumpkin) in its courtyard y el mar (sea and veg stuffed is one of life’s pleasures. squid) Opening hours vary, Mesón de la Abuela Rosario depending on the time of the 74 San Francisco st. T 956 472 year. Phone beforehand. 325. Creative cuisine. Paté de quesos (cheese pâté) and presa El Caballo Negro ibérica en salsa de higos secos Km. 1 Medina road. (pork neck in fi g sauce). T 956 830 938. Guiso de garbanzos con langostinos (Chickpea stew with king prawns) Tapas Something sweet on Saturdays. Clams in an excellent wine sauce Tortillitas de berenjenas Pastelitos de Belén (Almejas en una (aubergine fritters) Ribera del Muelle 1. T 956 475 salsa de wino). Taberna El Fillo 222. Many different desserts that 35 Nueva st. T 956 836 726. you can enjoy on the terrace Also serves good , open overlooking the Bay.

16 All you can wish El Puerto for de Santa María

El Puerto boasts many marvels on the table and behind the counters. Fish and seafood cooked in the fi sherman’s style, along with age-old fi ne wines and liqueurs. Mouth-watering delights and tapas still served on white chinaware plates. Let’s visit El Puerto… but with the emphasis on its food.

Breakfast

Churros (Spanish doughnuts) within a stone’s throw of the market. El Cafetín is right in the heart of the city, just a few metres away from the main market. Enjoy a few churros before visiting the market and marvelling at the fi sh stands.

Cacao Pico a bar that still retains the feel of a post-civil war Foodies must-sees establishment. The Sangre and Trabajadero sherry from the Bodega Gutiérrez Colosía winery churros with coff ee and Cacao Pico, a liqueur A traditional spot fi rst made A little ajo caliente 200 years (hot garlic soup). Every ago, which is Friday, the Media produced Chica tavern in Calle in Calle Los Pepes or Bar Vicente Alquiladores serves its Cielo, go customers a tapa of free perfectly hot garlic soup. And it with the goes perfectly with a crisp teja glass of wine straight almond from the cask. You just biscuits need to decide whether made by to go there before or the Ibáñez after visiting Los Pepes, family.

More suggestions on pages 20, 21 and 22. 17 Real musts

Fideos con lenguado (Noodles with Sole) and pavías de merluza (Battered hake). Casa Eugenio

noodles is right by the river. An ideal spot to enjoy a dish of seafood noodles served with a fi let of sole. Casa Paco Ceballos on the Ribera del Marisco is famed for its pavías de merluza, large strips of juicy TAPAS hake in a crunchy . El marrajo a la plancha Meals with a view Something sweet (Grilled shark) At La Dorada El Castillito, a bar Carmelas pastries La raya en tomate overlooking La Puntilla at La Merced. If you (Skate in tomato) beach, is proud of have a sweet tooth, At Bar Gonzalo its cazón en a real must is adobo (fried to try the La morcilla de sangre encebollada (Black marinated Carmelas, pudding with onions) dogfi sh) and pastries At “Er Beti” just a few filled metres away, with crème El pan de la casa con s jamón y mechada the Crefondue is Carmelas pastrie patisserie. (Homemade Bread with the perfect setting for a Perfect with a coffee Ham and Dripping) romantic meal. at La Merced. At La Bodeguilla del Bar Jamón Los mejillones al vapor (Steamed ) At la Cervecería de El Puerto Romerijo

MORCILLA

A Poniente

PAN

RAYA

Crefondue El Laúl 18 The photo

Romerijo, which boasts over 35 shellfi sh specialities, is the most famous establishment in El Puerto. You should not leave El Puerto without eating shellfi sh from a paper cone, washed down with a glass of Tierra de Cádiz white wine, outside the restaurant.

Romerijo

Where to linger over a meal El Faro de El Puerto is the province’s best restaurant according to leading food guides. Fernando Córdoba thinks up the dishes that feature on the ever changing menu. And don’t forget to leave room for a dessert…

Romerijo A poniente, Venta la Rufana, Casa Eugenio Guadalete and El Laúl EL are also FARO DEL recommended. PUERTO

A Poniente

El Laúl Fernando Córdoba More suggestions on pages 20, 21 and 22. 19 ALL ABOUT EL PUERTO DE SANTA MARÍA

Ponche Caballero it at this store which was the Breakfast Luis Caballero winery fi rst to specialise in gourmet 32 San Francisco st. products in the province. Closed Bread and ham T 956 851 751. on Sundays. El Rincón del Jamón Traditional liqueur in a 19 Micaela Aramburu st. sliver-coloured bottle. Iberian cured ham sliced before T 956 542 610. Crispy bread rolls Visits to the winery can your eyes with ham. Very popular. be arranged by phoning La Casa del Jamón Closed on Sundays. in advance. Valdés st. (opposite the bullring). Impressive range of Coffee with churros Fino Quinta hams that are sliced by knife doughnuts El Tiro de Osborne in the traditional style as the Café Bar La Winery. customer watches on. Closed Ponderosa IV Main road, on Sundays. 4 Eduardo km 651. Dato Av. T 956 T 956 854 Crisps in paper cones 543 075. Ideal 228. You Stalls in the Parque Calderón spot for breakfast can visit Open every day in the evenings or tea. Closed on the winery in July and August. Mornings and Thursdays. and buy evenings at weekends in winter. this sherry, Churros along with doughnuts other famous Bar El Cafetín A traditional spot beverages 6 Placilla st. (next such as Bodeguita Obregón to the market). Veterano 51 Zarza st. T 956 856 329. T 956 852 077. brandy. Open You can buy sherry here straight Coffee or hot chocolate in the morning from the cask. Open every day. with churros doughnuts. Closed from Monday to on Saturday afternoons and Friday. Bar Vicente Sundays. 7 Plaza de abastos. T 956 852 Brandy Centenario 055. Known as “Los Pepes”. Bodegas Terry Serves tapas at lunchtime. Foodies must-sees Toneleros st. (next to Higaditos de pollo (chicken the Parque del Vino livers) and albóndigas con Pringá meat spread Fino). Visits can be tomate (meatballs in Carnicería Hermanos Moreno arranged with sherry tomato sauce) highly 21 Carmen Pérez Pascual st. tasting and tapas. Horse recommended. T 956 855 627. Open from riding exhibitions can Closed on Sundays. Monday to Friday. Saturday, only also be organised. open in the morning. Closed on Open in the morning Ultramarinos La Sundays. from Monday to Giralda Saturday. 51 Luna st. T 956 856 Almond “tejas” biscuits 528. The shop has a backroom Tejas de El Puerto Brandy 501 where you can buy cured 19 Misericordia st. T 956 858 Bodegas 501 sausages and ham which is then 287. -thin crunchy almond 9 Valdés st. T 956 855 wrapped in sugar paper. Closed biscuits. There are also versions 859. Visits with tasting on Sundays. using pine nuts and chocolate. sessions. Visits after Open every day, but only in the dark also organised in Ultramarinos La Diana morning on Sundays. summer. Open in the 59 Palacios st. T 956 856 952. morning from Monday Founded at the end of the 19th to Friday. century. Closed on Saturday afternoons and Sundays. Oloroso Sangre y Trabajadero La Media Chica Bodegas Gutierrez 10 Alquiladores st. Small bar Colosía decorated with tiles with quotes 40 Bajamar av. T 956 and sayings and bullfi ghting 852 852. You can also posters. Closed on Sundays. buy wine from the barrel in the shop. Closed on Bodega Las Siete Esquinas Sundays. 1 Bolos st. T 956 870 406. Unaged wine, direct from the Tarta Imperial cake Cacao Pico cask. You can enjoy a glass Reposteria Artesana Pepe Mesa Gourmet del Puerto with some tapas in the typical 10 Del Rocío st. (El Carmen Urb.) 3 Valdés st. T 956 Andalusian courtyard. Open T 956 855 377. The bakery has 542 848. Chocolate every day. been making it for over 50 years. liqueur made using Made out of , butter and the traditional method Freiduría Apolo eggs, and fl avoured using Cacao dating back to the 19th 26 Muñoz Seca st. T 956 871 838. Pico liqueur. Open every day. century. You can fi nd It sells fried skate and is one of the

20 ALL ABOUT EL PUERTO DE SANTA MARÍA very places to do so here. This dish Almejas a la marinera Caracoles is also served in Bar Apolo, next (clams cooked with onions, (snails) door. Closed on Tuesdays. wine and paprika) Bar Chovi 12 Tortola st. Something sweet T 956 541 407. Excellent range of tapas. Confi tería La Merced The pechugita de pollo con 46 Ganado st. T 956 871 592. béchamel (chicken breast stuffed Traditional desserts. Try the with béchamel sauce) is fi rst rate. carmelas (custard-fi lled rolls) at teatime and the milk rolls for Mejillones al vapor breakfast. Open every day. (Steamed mussels) 13-15 Luna st. Hacienda La Torre T 956 858 939. El Puerto Rota road (opposite Seafood specialists. Venta La Rufana). T 956 856 616. Closed on Thursdays. Mansion set in beautiful gardens. Delicious cakes served at Morcilla de sangre encebollada teatime. Closed on Thursdays. (Black pudding with onions) Bar Er Beti Heladería Soler 3 Misericordia st. T 956 541 909. Nougat ice- cream and cheesecake. Open Bar Brillante from early April to the end of 8 Vicario st. T 679 152 409. Only September. when in season. Closed on Sundays.

The photo Chicharrones de atún (tuna crackling) Romerijo Bar El Rempujo 1 La Herrería sq. 7 Misericordia st. 11 El Polvorista sq. T 902 223 444. T 956 542 601. T 956 855 351. Open every day. Ajo caliente (warm purée of Small pieces of spicy, fried tuna. tomato, bread and garlic) Closed on Saturdays. Closed on Wednesday. Tapas Boquerones en adobo Pan de la casa con jamón (Marinated Fresh Anchovies) Solomillo al roquefort ibérico y carne mechada Bar El Pescaito (Tenderloin in a Roquefort (Homemade bread with cured 9 Atalaya st. cheese sauce) ham and larded pork) T 956 850 456. Mesón del Asador La bodeguilla del Bar Jamón Closed on Tuesdays, except in 2 Misericordia st. 5 Misericordia st. July and August. T 956 540 327. T 956 850 322. Open every day. From 12.00 to 16.30 hours. Slice Tapaculos fritos of , spread with oil and (fried plate fi sh) Raya en tomate tomato and topped with the cold Bar del Puerto Casa Aparicio (Skate in tomato) cuts. Open every day. Bajamar av. Bar Gonzalo T 647 766 081. Tapaculos is a fl at 26 Micaela Aramburu st. Marrajo a la plancha fi sh similar to fl ounders and sole. T 956 877 702. (Grilled shark) Closed on Sunday evenings and This bar is also known for its La Dorada all day Mondays. excellent fried fi sh. Closed on 26 La Bajamar av. Tuesdays. T 956 855 214. The marrajo is a type of shark. Meals with a view Ensaladilla de gambas Closed on Mondays. (prawn potato salad) El Castillito Barra del restaurante Casa Flores La Puntilla beach Marítimo av. 9 Ribera del Río. T 956 230 585. T 956 543 512. Fried fi sh with unrivalled views Almejas al vapor (steamed out to sea.. Does not close in clams),fi sh and seafood. Open July and August. Closed on every day. Thursday during the rest of the year. Sardinas empanadas Cóctel de mariscos (sardines coated in (Seafood cocktail) Crefondue breadcrumbs and almonds). Cervecería La Guachi Puerto Sherry Marítimo av. El Nuevo Portuense 1 La Herrería sq. T 956 877 752. 31 Luna st. T 956 540 106. Bar belonging to Terrace overlooking a small T 956 853 637. the Romerijo seafood restaurant beach. Stuffed and Closed on Sundays. Open every day. salads. Open every day.

21 ALL ABOUT EL PUERTO DE SANTA MARÍA

(opposite Hospital Santa María Restaurante Bar Jamón Real musts del Puerto). T 956 870 952. Molino Plateros roundabout The province’s best restaurant (Just off the El Puerto-Rota Casa Paco Ceballos according to leading food ring-road). Ribera del Marisco guides. Menu designed by T 956 850 513. (next to Romerijo). Fernando Córdoba that is Traditional cuisine. The solomillos T 956 542 908. changed regularly. Ask the al Pedro Ximénez con pasas Pavias de merluza (hake fi sh waiter to recommend the dishes y nueces (tenderloin with a fi ngers), adobo (marinated fi sh), and leave room for dessert. Pedro Ximénez, raisin and almejas a la marinera (clams Vegetarian dishes. Open every nut sauce) and the crema de cooked with onion, wine and day. queso Viejo (Cured paprika) and ensaladilla (Russian Manchego cheese cream) are salad). Portions served. Closed A Poniente highly recommended) Open on Wednesday. 6 Puerto Escondido st. every day. T 956 851 870. Casa Eugenio Guadalete Tapas served at the bar and La bodega jerezana 36 Bajamar av. separate dining room. Angel La Paz av. Valdelagrana. T 956 056 670. León is the most cutting-edge T 956 561 655. Delicious stews. Closed on chef in the province: Whole Grilled fi sh and a wide range Sunday evenings and all day fried rock fi sh and meat cooked of traditional dishes. Closed on Mondays. over olive embers. Booking Mondays. recommended. Restaurante Las Bóvedas Where to linger over a meal El Laúl 27 Virgen de los Milagros st. Hotel Monasterio San Miguel. Restaurante Los Portales T 956 540 440. 7 Ribera del Marisco. If you are looking for a quiet, T 956 541 812. peaceful setting. International An icon in El Puerto. Grilled fi sh. cuisine. Open every day. Open every day. Restaurante La Solera Restaurante Casa Flores 17 Ganado st. 9 Ribera del Río. T 956 543 512. T 956 543 562. Almejas al vapor (steamed Hundred-year-old restaurant clams),fi sh and seafood. Open with an emphasis on personal every day. El Puerto-Rota road. Km 4. service. Only 5 tables. Booking T 956 480 900. recommended. Different La bodeguilla del Bar Jamón Eating outside in this delightful degustation menus: Cocido garden is a memorable madrileño (Madrid-style meat experience. The imaginative and chickpea stew) in autumn dishes prepared by Eduardo and winter. Closed on Sunday Silóniz using local produce are evenings. showcased in his degustation El Rincón del Chirri menu. The tartar de pargo (porgy tartar), a typical local rock 21 Valencia av. fi sh, is particularly recommended. T 956 858 933. Closed on Sunday evenings and Fried and grilled fi sh, seafood, all day Mondays. lobster a house speciality. Closed on Sunday evenings and 5 Misericordia st. Venta La Rufana all day Mondays. T 956 850 322. El Puerto - Rota road (next to Restaurante Un alto en el Stews, and Vistahermosa). camino meat. Very pleasant setting for a T 956 856 616. romantic meal. Open every day. Ideal spot for a family lunch.. 37 Camino de los Enamorados. Fish and meat dishes without any T 956 870 354. El Faro de El Puerto frills. Closed on Thursdays and First-rate traditional cuisine. Rota road. Km 0,5 November. Closed on Mondays. Restaurante El Gaucho 36 Fuentebravía road. T 956 850 709. Features Argentinean meat. Open every day.

Restaurante Casa Luis Ribera del Marisco corner with Javier de Burgos. T 956 872 009. Unusual dishes. Diffi cult to get a table at weekends.

BLACK 22 PUDDING

MORCILLA The best Conil local de la produce Frontera

Perfection does not exist but it can almost be found in Conil. Much of the province’s best produce comes from its fi elds and coastline. Seasonal delights are grown in its market gardens, such as the alcauciles or artichokes enjoyed during Lent or tomatoes in the summer. Red porgy, redbanded sea-bream, octopus… these are just some of the many fi sh caught off its shores. And when fi sh and veg are combined, it is a truly mouth-watering experience.

Foodies must-sees Conil market is small, but its fi sh stalls heaving And they now also have with bocinegro (red a café on Calle Virgen porgy), urta (redbanded de la Luz. sea-bream), pargo (snapper) and corvina (white sea bass) make Paco Vázquez The photo it well worth the are the artichokes from In June, Conil celebrates visit. the Paco Vázquez “Tuna Week”. Over 30 The greengrocer’s restaurants and bars market is shop. Then, then offer a special COR also home VINA there are the menu featuring this fi sh to Diego habichuelas that is caught in the Sánchez’s stall, pias or young green town’s Almadraba trap beans… just one of the nets. Tuna is at its best many delights. at this time of the year.

Something sweet

organic bread red porgy Originally from where he sells his home- Germany, Olga and made black pudding, Michel bake organic whose quality makes its bread and tasty cakes famous locally. that you can buy from During Lent, Panaiso, a small shop on a real must Calle Pascual Junquera.

BLACK PUDDING More suggestions on page 25. 23

MORCILLA TAPAS

El cazón en adobo (marinated dogfi sh) At Los Hermanos La brocheta de

bacalao y gambas A MEAL (Cod and Prawn ) LOOKING OUT At la Taberna Francisco La Fontanilla TO SEA Las Delicias Real musts La sopa tomate (Tomato soup) Red porgy, tuna At El Galeón and ostiones or oysters Las patatas de la tasca eaten on (speciality potato dish) At La Tasca de Juan the sea shore. La pastela de pollo oysterss Francisco Chicken terrine and La At La Almazara Fontanilla overlook the beach. Start with some oysters farmed out at sea by the Fishermen’s Associations. And then you must try the red porgy: whether CAZÓN baked, grilled or baked in salt. And fi nish by trying grilled belly of tuna that has been freshly caught from the Almadraba nets. La Fontanilla

BROCHETA Blanco y Verde Where to linger over a meal

The Blanco y Verde restaurant is in the centre of Conil. The restaurant’s signature PATATAS dishes are its squid stew with its special touch and a traditional tuna and onion stew.

Los Hermanos Or if you go to the Venta Melchor de El Colorao, its scrambled eggs with aubergine and clams, partridge pâté or the seasonal tuna or artichoke stews are highly recommended.

artichokes, Venta Melchor 24 ALL ABOUT CONIL

Patatas de la tasca Breakfast (speciality potato dish) Horno de San Antonio La Tasca de Juan San Sebastián st. 10 Padre Caro st. T 956 444 120. Different types T 635 603 690. of bread and pastries. In the Potato stewed with prawns, centre of Conil. Open every day. quail’s eggs and ham. Closed on Mondays.

A MEAL Calabacines gratinados LOOKING OUT (courgettes gratin) TO SEA El Tascón de la Prensa 23 José Velarde st. T 956 441 593. Closed on Mondays and from Venta Melchor November until end of February. El Colorado road (along the old highway). Foodies must-sees Pastela de pollo T 956 405 007. Traditional stews Mercado de abastos (chicken terrine) and innovative dishes featuring (Central market) La Almazara local tuna, vegetables and fi sh. Rosa de los Vientos st. 5 Laguna st. T 626 811 353. Closed on Sunday evenings and Open in the morning from Range of tapas, some innovative Mondays, except in August. Monday to Saturday. and Arab specialities. Closed on Thursdays, only from October Venta José Mari to Easter. El Colorado road. Something sweet T 956 445 863. Fried and Grilled Meals with a view fresh fi sh.. Stews, such as the Panadería Panaiso carne en salsa (meat stew) or, 36 Pascual El Roqueo when in season, the alcauciles Junquera st. Las Palmeras urbanization. con chicharos y habas (artichokes T 956 442 865. T 956 440 205. There are two with split peas and broad beans). Wide range of restaurants. El Mirador, with a Open every day. bread, including terrace with spectacular views, organic and and El Roqueo, where you can La Fontanilla German . see the sea through its windows. La Fontanilla beach Homemade rolls, Known for its fi rst-rate fi sh dishes. T 956 440 779. pastries and cakes. El Roqueo closes in November Fish and bluefi n They also have a café and El Mirador from November tuna. Terrace at Calle Virgen de la Luz 14. to February. over looking the beach. Closed El Timón de Roche on Wednesdays, Tapas Inglaterra st. Roche urbanization. except in July and Cazón en adobo (fried T 956 446 232 August. marinated dogfi sh) Bar los Hermanos Venta Cabo Roche 2 Virgen st. T 956 440 403. Real musts Fishing Port road. T Closed on Tuesdays and Sunday 956 232 089. mornings. Fried fi sh Very popular. Bocinegro (red porgy), ostiones Local fi sh and seafood. Closed (scallops) and atún rojo de on Wednesdays and the whole Brocheta de bacalao y gambas almadraba (bluefi n tuna) month of November. (Cod and Prawn Kebab) Francisco La Fontanilla Taberna Las Delicias La Fontanilla beach. T 956 440 Restaurante Hotel Husa Venenciadores st. T 610 969 540. 802. Closed on Tuesdays except Conil Park Closed on Mondays in July and August. Closed the La Fontanilla av. whole of January. T 956 043 000. Highly personal Sopa de tomate (Tomato soup) and imaginative cuisine cooked Café Bar El Galeón under the careful eye of the chef 9 Goya st. Where to linger over a meal Blas Pérez Macías. Open from T 956 442 851. Easter to the end of October. Traditional Conil cuisine: Restaurante Blanco y Verde alcauciles (artichokes – when 16 Rosa de los Vientos st. T 956 Las Cumbres in season), calamares rellenos 442 613. This is the place to eat El Colorado road. T 956 445 530. (stuffed squid) and fi sh. Closed on Wednesdays and Traditional cuisine using local up to 60 dishes the whole month of November. produce. Closed on Mondays. featuring local fresh produce. Opens only on Friday nights and all day Saturdays and Sundays.

25 Excellent Vejer meat and de la desserts Frontera

Vejer is a delight to discover as you climb up through the town. Its streets have been home to Arabs and Christians in the past and this is refl ected in its cuisine. Vejer is noted for its fi rst-rate Retinto veal and the lomo en manteca (pork loin in dripping), along with a well-established tradition, the best example of which is the unusual hard bread that the Galván family bakes only in Lent.

Real musts Something sweet The pork loin cooked in lard is Vejer’s most slices of fried liver and famous dish. You pork which are served can fi nd it in white warm with a generous or coloured dripping chunk of bread, at at Paco Bar Navarro. The Melero’s Venta Pinto bar butcher’s on the edge shop, of the town right is famous

in the co ng for its pork wh ing lour ppi heart of ite dripp ed dri rolls, which of the city. Another must course feature pork in is the country lunch, dripping.

Galván The Galván family have a bakery in Calle Altozano, which is famous for its camiones, a type of millefeuilles, and not forgetting the traditional Vejer tortas and roscos

pastries s co s o for Lent. r

Paco Melero Venta Pinto 26 More suggestions on page 28. TAPAS

EL PALMAR BEACH El atún mechado Meals with a view (pot-roasted larded tuna) At Pepe Julián Casa Francisco is one of the oldest bars overlooking El Palmar beach. It specialises in mouth-watering Las papas con gambas, freshly caught fi sh, shellfi sh and Retinto veal. jamón y huevo de codorniz (Potatoes with prawns, ham and quail’s egg) Where to linger over a meal At El Conejito Retinto veal, from the La tostá de anchoas local breed of cattle in y boquerones (White and La Janda, is prepared salted anchovy on toast) At El Central to perfection at La Castillería. El montadito de hígado a la plancha (Grilled liver La Muela, a village open sandwich) within a stone’s throw Il Forno At El Punto of Vejer, is home to Il Forno restaurant, a delightful spot where roadside bar meets Italian restaurant. La Vera Cruz in the old part of Vejer serves modern cuisine with a hint of France in the

setting of an old chapel. ATÚN And the best place to enjoy tuna fresh from the Almadraba nets is at Trafalgar in the Plaza de España square. La Castillería

PAPAS La Castillería

TOSTA

Más propuestas en página 28. 27 ALL ABOUT VEJER

Mesón Pepe Julián original side-dishes. Lively Real musts 7 Juan Relinque st. T 956 451 atmosphere and wonderful views 098. Traditional tapas. The over the countryside. Closed on Venta Pinto Russian salad is also very popular. Wednesdays, except in July and La Barca de Vejer (at the start of Closed on Wednesday. August. road into Barbate). T 956 450 877. Papas con gambas, jamón y Il Forno Open every day. huevo de cordorniz (Potatoes with Paco Melero prawns, ham and butcher’s quail’s egg) 22 Juan Relinque Bar El Conejito st. T 956 450 304. La corner with Apart from pork Bellido st. T 956 451 loin, it sells homemade 567. Closed on Mondays. sausages and Retinta beef. Closed on Sundays. Tostá de anchoas y boquerones La Muela road. km 4,5. (White and salted anchovy on T 956 448 496. Closed from Bar Navarro toast) November to early March.. 8 Juan Bueno st. T 620 123 227. El Central Closed on Tuesdays the rest Open every day. 5 Teniente Castrillón st. T 956 450 of the year. Lunch and dinner 457. Innovative tapas in a very on Saturdays, Sundays and pleasant setting. Closed on public holidays. Only dinner Foodies must-sees Wednesdays, except on Mondays, Wednesdays, in August. Thursdays and Fridays. Vinoteca Viña y Mar 26 Juan Relinque st. T 956 451 Montadito de La Vera Cruz 567. Comprehensive range of hígado a la 1 Eduardo Shelly st. wines, with some outstanding plancha (Grilled T 956 451 683. Closed sherries. Closed on Mondays. liver open on Wednesdays, except in sandwich) July and August. Only open El Punto for dinner. Something sweet 6 Andalucía av. T 956 451 104. Bar famous for its open La Brasa de Sancho Confi tería La Exquisita Galván sandwiches. Closed on Tuesdays. 1 Sancho IV st. 3 Altozano st. T 956 450 158. T 956 455 189. Steakhouse Open every day. known for its charcoal-grilled Meals with a view meat and fi sh. Open every day Xauen Pastelería Andalusí from six in the evening. Poligono Industrial Casa Francisco el de siempre 1 Cañada Ancha. T El Palmar beach. T 956 232 Restaurante Trafalgar 956 455 316. Arab 249. Rice dishes served in the 31 España sq. cakes and lemon and restaurant or you can opt for T 956 447 638. Right in the cinnamon doughnuts, tapas at the bar, including city centre with a very pleasant along with tiny Vieira con pure de alcachofas sidewalk café. Varied menu and pestiños (honey-coated (scallops with artichoke purée), with innovative fi sh dishes. Check fried ) all year albóndigas de choco en su tinta opening hours and holiday round. Open in the morning (squid meatballs in its ink) and periods. from Monday to Saturday. ensalidilla de pulpo de roca (octopus salad). Open every day Restaurante Patría March to November. Closed 48 Patría st. Pedanía de La The photo on Wednesdays the rest of the Muela. year. Closed from December to T 956 448 463. Small restaurant El Jardín del Califa halfway through February. on the side of a mountain run by 12 España sq. T 956 451 706. a Scandinavian couple who serve Arab cuisine. The and Mediterranean dishes featuring local products. Limited menu some olives in the restaurant’s Where to linger over a meal special dressing are outstanding. but dishes are outstanding and Open every day. La Castillería use seasonal produce. They even Pago Santa Lucía (Take the road make the bread themselves. from the dual-carriageway). Closed on Mondays. Only open Tapas T 956 451 497. Closed from the for dinner the rest of the week. end of October to March. Only Hígado aliñado opens at lunchtime from March Mesón Las Perdices (liver in a special dressing) to end of April. Open every 12 Buena Vista av. Bar Navarro day during the summer season, T 956 450 361. Very popular Veal liver that is grilled and then except at Friday lunchtime. restaurant featuring fi sh, seafood dressed with peppers, tomatoes and traditional dishes. and onions. Asador La Tajea Closed on Mondays. Pago Santa Lucía. T 956 Atún mechado 447 142. (pot-roasted larded tuna) Meat and fi sh with

28 famous Barbate for its and Zahara tuna de los Atunes

Northern bluefi n tuna are caught using the Almadraba trap nets, a traditional fi shing method passed down through the centuries and still used today. Tuna can be enjoyed in many different ways in Barbate, although it is perhaps prepared near to perfection by Pepe Merlero at El Campero. And a visit to Barbate is not complete… without going to the nearby .

Foodies must-sees EL RONQUEO All things tuna. The morning begins at Barbate market. You should then go to the Banderillas de atún Filetes de atún Lomo de atún con ahumado y queso en aceite en aceite de oliva pimientos Tuna Visitor’s Centre, (Trays of smoked tuna (Tuna fi lets (Tuna back with where you can learn and cheese in oil) in olive oil) peppers) about the Almadraba fi shing technique. HERPAC During the season (in May and June), you can even take a boat trip out to one of the nets. Tarantelo de Mojama de atún de Ijada de atún atún de almadraba en almadraba* (Tuna fl ank) You can also buy local aceite de oliva (Sun-dried canned produce there (Almadraba tuna in Almadraba tuna) olive oil) and discover a range of EL REY DE OROS tasty delights:

Huevas de caballa Sarda de almadraba Tarantelo de atún de en aceite de oliva en aceite de oliva almadraba en aceite (Mackerel roe in (Atlantic bonito de oliva olive oil) in olive oil) (Almadraba tuna in olive oil)

LA CHANCA CONSEVAS CÁDIZ**

Atún de almadraba Mojama de atún* Lomo de atún en aceite de oliva (Sun-dried tuna) en manteca (Almadraba tuna in (Larded tuna) olive oil)

* Mojama is tuna back dried in the sun. It is a seafaring version of ham. ** This canning factory also has a museum about the Battle of Trafalgar that is worth a visit.

More suggestions on page 31. 29 TAPAS

Tres Martínez El atún de ijá en aceite Tuna fl ank in oil Something sweet At La Bocana If you have a sweet- La lasaña de atún tooth, you will be Tuna Lasagne delighted with the At El Campero bar range of goodies at Las tortillitas de Hermanos Martínez’s camarones (shrimp fritters) shop in Barbate, At Bar Camarón where you can fi nd everything El atún encebollao (Tuna and Onion Stew) from traditional At La Taberna de Abelardo es pine-nut cakes cak pine-nut to the latest Las anchoas en aceite spongy mousses. And (Anchovies in oil) then, if you are more At Casa Juanito adventurous, you should try one of the Barbate salty yet sweet treats made out of dried fruits and nuts. Tres Martínez

Where to linger over a meal

ATÚN DE IJÁ

TORTILLITAS El Campero El Campero

You cannot go to Barbate without visiting El Campero run by Pepe Melero. You should start with some grilled tuna-belly fi llets. This part of the fi sh used to be thrown away, but now, it is considered to be truly exquisite. At El Campero, the menu ranges from Japanese tuna dishes ATÚN ENCEBOLLAO to traditional stews, such as Tuna and Onions. And of course, we

cannot forget the Almadraba La range of salted and home-made canned fi sh.

30 Pepe Melero ALL ABOUT BARBATE AND ZAHARA

away. Closed on Wednesdays. Foodies must-sees Something sweet Closed in December and January. Tres Martínez 18 Pío XII st. Barbate. T 956 Sangre en tomate (Black 430 536. 26 Atlántico av. T 956 pudding in tomato sauce) 430 318. Almadrabeta. 13 María Luisa st. Zahara de los Atunes. T 956 439 274. Sangre is a type of black Tapas pudding. Closed on Tuesdays. Atún de ijá en aceite (tuna Closed in November. belly in oil) La Bocana. 128 La Mar av. Mercado de abastos Barbate Barbate. T 956 430 679. Tuna in Meals with a view (Central Market) every shape and form. Closed Rajamanta Avenida de Andalucía. on Mondays. La Mar av. (next to fi sher port). Barbate. T 956 430 227. The Art of Tuna Fishing Visitor’s Lasaña de atún (Tuna Lasagne) Overlooking the beach. Enjoy Centre El Campero bar. 5 La some fried fi sh and the wonderful Barbate Sport Port. T 670 946 Constitución av. Barbate. T 956 views. Closed on Thursdays. 879. Permanent exhibition on the 432 300. Tapas at El Campero art of almadraba net tuna fi shing bar will be sure to delight your and the bluefi n tuna. You can take taste-buds. Where to linger over a meal a boat trip out to the almadraba El Campero net during all the year. Tortillitas de camarones 5 La Constitución av. Barbate. Book at www.atunalmadraba.es (shrimp fritters) T 956 432 300. Closed on Bar Camarón. 57 La Mar av. Mondays, except in July and La Chanca Barbate. T 685 868 154. This August. Reyes Católicos sq. Barbate. bar has been famous for its T 956 433 506. Excellent shrimp fi tters since it fi rst Marisqueria Porfi rio selection of canned products. opened its doors 35 years ago. Tamarón sq. Zahara de los Apart from the mojama (salt- Closed on Mondays. Atunes. T 956 439 130. Seafood dried tuna), we recommend the and atún de almadraba (bluefi n ijada de atún (tuna belly) and the Atún encebollao (Tuna and tuna). paté de huevas de merluza (hake Onion Stew) roe pâté). Open every day. Taberna de Abelardo. Avda. 67 Restaurante Antonio Cabo Diego Pérez st. Barbate. El Rey de Oros T 649 013 817. Tuna stews, P4-6 El Olivar polygon. Barbate.T such as atún en manteca (larded 956 430 000. Almadraba tuna tuna). Open every day. morrillo (fl ank) and ventresca. (belly). Huevas de caballa Anchoas en aceite (Anchovies (mackerel roe). Open in the in oil) morning from Monday to Friday. Casa Juanito. 7 Sagasta st. Zahara de los Atunes. T 956 439 El Ronqueo 211. Tapas are served at the 4 Ronda del Río. Barbate. T bar. Its tuna dishes are famous, 956 431 080. Trays of Sierra particularly the morrillo de atún Atlanterra road. Km 1. Zahara de Cádiz smoked tuna and a la sal (tuna fl ank baked in salt) de los Atunes. T 956 439 cheese Atún en manteca (tuna Closed on Wednesdays. Closed 542. Bluefi n tuna prepared in in lard). Smoked salmon and for holidays from 1 October to different ways. Open every fresh cheese delights. Open in end of December. day. Closed in December and the morning from Monday to January. Saturday. Lobito al Huesi (Huesi-style mako shark) Almadraba Herpac Bar Huesi. 9 Pérez Galdos st. 15 María Luisa st. Zahara de los 3 Hermanos Romero Abreu Zahara de los Atunes. T 956 439 Atunes. T 956 439 332. Tuna st. Barbate. T 956 430 746. 277. The Lobito (mako shark) and rice dishes. The house Salted tuna belly in oil, mojama is similar to swordfi sh, but less speciality is arroz con calamares (dried tuna) and melva (frigate sought after. This bars serves de potera (rice with jig-caught mackerel). Open every day. chunks of the fi sh in a tomato squid). Closed on Tuesdays. Only open in the morning on and pepper sauce. Open at the Closed in November. Saturdays and Sundays. weekends from end of October to Easter. Only closes on Restaurante Gaspar Conservas de Cádiz Tuesdays and Wednesdays the 10 Alcalde Varo Valdés st. 142 Mar av. (opposite port). rest of the year. Zahara de los Atunes. T 956 439 Barbate. T 956 434 323. Fish 006. Tartar de atún rojo (Bluefi n stews, such as atún encebollao Atún en escabeche (pickled tuna tartar) or carpaccio de atún (tuna and onion stew) or tuna). con anchoas y albahaca fresca albóndigas al Pedro Ximénez La Botica. 13 Real st. Zahara (tuna carpaccio with anchovies (meatballs in a Pedro Ximénez de los Atunes. T 956 439 183. and fresh basil).. Closed on sauce) Museum shop and Apart from its tuna, it is well- Wednesdays, except in summer. bar with tasting sessions at known for fried fi sh that you can Closed in December and weekends. Open every day. eat at the bar or buy to take January.

31 cuisine from the Tarifa Straits

Thanks to its history and its geographical location, Tarifa can boast a varied cuisine featuring wonderful local products. From pan macho, the traditional rustic bread that is still made by hand in Facinas, to the incredible range of tapas, without forgetting the dishes featuring the voraz (blackspot seabream). Then, there is the taste of real home-baking that you will enjoy in the form of its traditional delights.

Breakfast Foodies must-sees Pan macho is a Tarifa is famous for the traditional bread make products produced by using flour the La Tarifeña and Piñero ground on canning companies. a mill You can stone. buy canned It is mackerel and made melva, frigate by the mackerel that is pa Tineo n m much smaller than ach de Facinas o the tuna and which is bakeries and you can delicious when preserved eat it for breakfast at in oil, from a shop run by Ventorrillo El Nene. It the Conservera de Tarifa is delicious with home- canning company in Calle grown tomatoes. Arapiles. Tarifa’s canned products

Real musts

La Torre prepares the voraz, the typical fi sh found along the coastline of the Straits of Gibraltar, using simple techniques without any frills: a la sal (baked in salt), a la espalda sobre brasas (grilled over embers), or baked en su jugo (in its juices) with lemon, garlic, oil and white wine. At the Hurricane, it is barbecued over wood and at El Ancla, overlooking Tarifa’s fi shing harbour, you can enjoy it grilled. View from Hurricane’s terrace 32 TAPAS

Las croquetas de choco (squid croquettes) At El Ancla El solomillo ibérico (pork sirloin) At Anca Curro El surtido de 4 atunes (4 tuna platter) At Las Cuatro Esquinas El Tesoro

Patatas a la brava Meals with a view Something sweet (fried potatoes with a spicy tomato sauce) With the Straits Tea-time is a real must At Los Melli of Gibraltar in the in Tarifa. And there are La brótola frita background. El Tesoro, at least three sweets (Fried forkbeard) located in Betijuelo, a to try. At Playa Blanca village just outside Tarifa that can be reached The tranvía at La from the main road, is Tarifeña. The the ideal spot to enjoy de almendra ( almond grilled meat and freshly biscuits) at the Bernal caught local fi sh on bakery. And of course, the restaurant’s terrace you must try the tocinos with views over the de cielo at either surrounding countryside. establishment.

4 ATUNES A traditional spot

Playa Blanca Playa 1

BRÓTOLA TRANVÍA

PASTAS DE ALMENDRA Playa Blanca Playa 2 Plaza de San Martín square is the place to go for tapas. There you will fi nd the Playa Blanca bar, with its sidewalk café, TOCINOS DE CIELO where you choose from a wide range of fried fi sh tapas, including the brótola, the forkbeard 3 fi sh that is similar to hake, caught in the Straits and which is served there.

More suggestions on page 34. 33 ALL DETAILS ABOUT TARIFA

5 Moreno de Mora st. T 658 Breakfast 854 012. Acorn-fed pork in a Real musts wide range of dishes. Revuelto Ventorrillo El Nene de berenjenas (scrambled eggs WHERE TO EAT VORAZ Local “pan macho” rye bread with aubergines) (blackspot seabream) with freshly-grown tomatoes (when in season). Facinas road. Surtido de 4 atunes Restaurante La Torre Km 1,5. T 956 (4 tuna platter) N 340 main road. 687 020. Las Cuatro Esquinas Km 77,2. 23 Jerez st. T 956 680 481. T 956 689 990. Restaurante Bluefi n tuna served as a curry, Morilla stewed with onions, with a Restaurante Hurricane Pan macho and tomato and almond sauce and N 340 main road. Km 77. mollete bread rolls right in the in the Levante style (stewed T 956 684 919 . town centre. with onion and carrots). 2 Sancho IV El Bravo st. T 956 681 757. Pimientos del piquillo rellenos de carne (Piquillo Where to linger over a meal El Café Azul peppers stuffed with meat) Restaurante La Mandrágora Breakfasts with fruit, juices and Mesón El Picoteo 3 de la Independencia st. pancakes. 8 Batalla del Salado Mariano Vinuesa st. T 956 681 T 956 681 291. From cous-cous st. Open every day from 8.00 128. Very popular. Closed on to garlic prawns. Only open to 15.00 hours. Monday afternoons and all day for dinner. Closed on Sundays. Tuesdays. Closed from November to January. Foodies must-sees Patatas a la brava Tarifa frigate and chub (Fried potatoes with a spicy Souk mackerels. tomato sauce) 46 Mar Tirreno st. Tienda Industrial Conservera Bar Los Melli T 956 627 065. de Tarifa. 3 Arapiles st. T 956 16 Guzmán El Bueno st. T Arab cuisine. 681 142. Closed on Saturday 692 310 134. Very popular. Open from the end of March to afternoons and Sundays. Extensive . Closed the end of the summer. on Wednesdays. Pan Macho Restaurante Punta Sur Stone-ground fl our. Juana Pollo relleno con N 340 main road. Km 77. Tineo. 13 Constitución st. (Chicken stuffed with T 956 684 326. T 956 687 081. Closed on couscous) Barbecued fi sh and meat. Sundays. El Pasillo 14 Guzmán El Bueno st. T 697 Casa Juan Luis Fernando Tineo 245 054. Very small and always 15 San Francisco st. 12 Labradores st. Facinas. full. Closed on Mondays and T 956 681 265. T 956 687 317. Closed on Tuesdays, only in winter. Famous for its acorn-fed pork Sundays. dishes. Only open for dinner. Alcachofas al Pedro Ximénez Closed on Sundays. (Artichokes in Pedro Ximénz Something sweet sauce) Bodega La Olla Pastelería Bernal Bar El Otro Melli 7 Alcalde Juan Núñez st. Cajillas (almond pastries), 5 San Martín sq. T 680 402 T 956 684 085. almond biscuits and caramel 090. Revueltos (scrambled Mero (grouper), voraz custard. 3 Sancho IV El Bravo egg), ortiguillas fritas (fried sea (blackspot seabream) and rice st. urchins) and lomo en manteca dishes overlooking the port. T 956 684 244. (larded pork). Closed on Open every day. Mondays. La Tarifeña Patagonia Tranvías (millefeuilles), negritos Brótola frita (Fried forkbeard) 22 San Francisco st. (chocolate covered sponge Bar Playa Blanca T 956 681 018. cakes) and caramel custard. 6 San Martín sq. T 685 869 Excellent meat, tuna, squid 21 Nuestra Señora de la Luz st. 216. The forkbeard is a fi sh and bacalao (cod) grilled over T 956 684 015. similar to hake that is caught embers. Closed on Tuesdays in the Straits and served fried. in winter. Closed on Wednesdays. Tapas Las Rejas Croquetas de choco (squid El Lentiscal, junto a la playa de croquettes) Meals with a view Bolonia. Restaurante El Ancla El Tesoro T 956 688 546. 15 Fuerzas Armadas av. T 956 Paraje El Betijuelo (Off the N Fresh fi sh, particularly grilled 680 913. Portions and excellent 340 main road). T 956 236 368. grouper or in a brandy sauce. fi sh overlooking the port. Its Retinto beef, acorn-fed pork Only open on Saturdays and voraz (blackspot seabream) is and free-range chicken grilled Sundays in winter. Open every famous. Open every day. over embers in a breath-taking day from 1 May to 30 setting. Only open at weekends September. Solomillo iberíco from November to April. Open (Acorn-fed tenderloin) every day, except Mondays, Anca Curro from May to October.

34 tasty and contrasts

Cuisine brimming with contrasts… is even better. When two good things are combined, the result is outstanding. Algeciras, famed for its seafood. Los Barrios, a town on the edge of los Alcornocales natural park. Algeciras, the concha fi na or smooth clams, and Los Barrios, chicharrones or pork crackling. And the aroma of Arabic and aniseed sweets that have been produced for more than a century.

resist as they are so mouth- Foodies must-sees wateringly good. Algeciras’s market. Is well worth a visit. The entertainment is inside and outside this octagonal building. Inside, there are stalls of fi sh, carnes de lidia or beef from fi ghting bulls, fruit, vegetables… just Alhambra bakery about everything. Outside, you can have breakfast as you inside the Algeciras´s market The photo watch the hustle and bustle of has added new products, El Copo restaurant has a such as an unusual dining-room for four chantarellas liqueur, people located made using the on top of a that carriage. The grows in the unusual setting neighbouring and the food outside the Algeciras´s market Los Alcornocales served turns sm the stands selling from natural park. o a meal there ot neighbouring Morocco, as h cl into an unrivalled ams at El Copo well as the fi sh market and the experience: atún en Martín seafood restaurant. manteca (tuna in lard), The building dates back to the Something sweet fi deos al azafrán con 1930s. coquinas de la zona (saffron The Confi tería de La Plata noodles with local cockles), Age-old anisette. is a real institution in Los ortiguillas (sea anemones), The Cózar family has been Barrios. It was founded in foie de rape (monkfi sh running its distillery in Los the 50s and customers still liver), conchas fi nas, smooth Barrios since halfway through fl ock there. It is famed for clams that are harvested the 19th century. its borrachuelos (deep- locally, and fi sh dressed Its anisette was fried tipsy pastries) made with a little olive oil... all one of the best with Cózar anisette and mouth-watering delights. known of . honey at Time. Nowadays, the In Algeciras, the Alhambra founder’s great- bakery, near to the market, great-grandson, specialises in specialities José Fernández, from both sides of the continues to Straits of Gibraltar and its make it using the display of Arab pastries and traditional method, sweets is worth more than even though he one photo... and hard to at El Copo on top of a carriage chantarellas liqueur chantarellas More suggestions on page 37. 35 Real musts

The voraz or besugo de la pinta (blackspot seabream) at Casa Montes the bar in Casa Castro the bar or Casa Bernardo in Algeciras. The TAPAS chicharrones or Po pork crackling at rk cr Venta El Frenazo ack El paté de cabracho ling or at Al Andalus in Los (Scorpionfi sh Pâté) seabream at Casa Bernardo Barrios. At Casa Castro Los callos con garbanzos Where to linger over a meal (Tripe and ) At Casa Dioni El pollo adobado (Deep-fried marinated chicken) At La Casita El plato de gambas blancas cocidas (Boiled deep-water pink shrimps) At El Giraldillo Las croquetas Willy de ortiguillas From Palmones to restaurant and (sea anemone Guadacorte. Palmones, prepare excellent local croquettes) near to Los Barrios, is traditional stews with the At Al Andalus considered to be odd dish from modern the gourmet cuisine. Algeciras centre of El showcases seafood Campo de in its cuisine. The Gibraltar. It has best examples many bars and can be found at restaurants that Pork loin at La Tenería Bernardo, on serve excellent the Rinconcillo Beach, or fi sh dishes. Along with Las Olas, on the Getares EL Copo, there is Willy Beach. And then there is

to name just one of other La Sal, whose dishes range CALLOS many. Guadacorte is in from to pescados a stark contrast. There, fi ve la espalda (fi sh grilled over women run the Cortijo de embers)

Cortijo de Guadacorte

POLLO

GAMBAS

36 ALL ABOUT ALGECIRAS AND LOS BARRIOS

Pollo adobado (Deep-fried Restaurante Al Andalus Foodies must-sees marinated chicken) Doña Rosa García López Cepero Mercado de abastos Algeciras La Casita av. Los Barrios. T 956 620 733. Nuestra Señora de la Palma 16 Tarifa st. Algeciras. T 956 Chicharrones (pork scratchings) sq. Open in the morning from 632 886. Seasoned with lemon. every day, refrito barreño Monday to Saturday. Within a Famous for its hamburgers. Closed (asparagus soup), croquetas de stone’s throw of the fi sh market on Sundays. ortiguillas and de chocos (squid and Antonio Martin’s fi shmonger’s and sea urchin croquettes). in Calle Santa María. Porra antequerana (thick Tapas or meals served in Gazpacho cream) the dining room. Closed on Anís Cózar Mesón Las Duelas Wednesdays. Destilería de Licores 2 Neda sq. Algeciras. T 956 665 Villa de Los Barrios. 945. Pleasant terrace. Closed on This aniseed liqueur Sunday evenings. Where to linger over a meal can be bought from Las Barcas the village shops. Rollito de la abuela Villa Rosa urbanization. Algeciras. Jacaranda T 956 600 258. Sophisticated Pan de telera (rye bread) 1 Neda sq. Algeciras. It is a pork cuisine. Panadería Hermanos Espinosa. fi let stuffed with ham and served 14 Soledad st. Los Barrios. T 956 with a meat sauce and chips. La Sal 620 093. White and brown telera Closed on Mondays. 1 Villa Rosa urbanization. bread. Loaves in different sizes up Algeciras. T 956 572 818. Fish and to two kilos. Closed on Sundays. Gambas blancas cocidas (Boiled meat grilled in the Argentinean deep-water pink shrimps) style. Closed on Sunday evenings. Cervecería El Giraldillo 65 Andalucía av. Palmones. T La Tenería 956 675 508. Cold beer to wash 16 Blas Infante av. Algeciras. T 856 down the seafood, smoked fi sh 221 663. Modern cuisine. Closed and fried fi sh served in paper all day Monday, and Sunday and cones. Tuesday evenings.

Bar de la peña El Toro Embolao Las Olas Something sweet Carlos Cano av. (La Montera L6 Getares beach. Algeciras. T 956 Pastelería Alhambra bullring). Los Barrios. T 607 929 572 733. Fish and rice dishes. Bar 2 José Santacana st. Algeciras. 223. Stews and . Closed on serving over 90 dishes. Right on T 956 653 457. Mouth-watering Mondays. the beach. Closed on Tuesdays array of Arab cakes. Savoury in winter. pastries also available. Open every day. Real musts Restaurante Willy EL VORAZ 79 Andalucía av. Palmones. T Pastelería La Plata (BLACKSPOT SEABREAM) 956 678 265. Fish baked in the 45 La Plata st. Los Barrios. T 956 oven with olive oil tuna, tortillitas 620 102. Meringues, piononos Casa Bernardo de algas y camarones (shrimp sponge rolls and millefeuilles. 2 Cabo Nao st. Playa del and seaweed fritters), ortiguillas Borrachuelos, a honey-covered Rinconcillo. Algeciras. T 956 633 (sea urchins)… Closed on Sunday aniseed cake, at Christmas. 044. Voraz a la espalda (split grilled evenings. Closed on Wednesdays. blackspot seabream) and fried fi sh. La Lonja Casa Montes 50 Andalucía av. Palmones. T The photo 27 Juan Morrison st. Algeciras. T 956 676 087. Arroz caldoso con A meal in a horse-drawn 956 654 207. Voraz a la espalda bogavante (thick lobster and rice carriage and selection of fried fi sh. broth) and berenjenas con crema Mesón El Copo de bogavantes (aubergines in a 2 Trasmallo st. Palmones. T 956 Mesón Bitácora lobster sauce). Closed on Sundays. 677 710. Tapas are also served at 2 Trafalgar st. Algeciras. T 956 the bar. Closed on Sundays. 096 993. Albóndigas de choco Cortijo de Guadacorte con salsa de langostinos (squid Canarios st. Guadacorte meatballs and king prawn sauce), urbanization. Los Barrios. T Tapas revuelto de patatas con huevo 956 678 688. Traditional stews Paté de cabracho (Scorpionfi sh (scrambled eggs with potatoes) alongside innovative dishes. Good Pâté) and croquetas de carabineros (red wine list and desserts. Casa Castro prawn croquettes). Portions at the Blas Infante av. Algeciras. Very bar or meals served in the dining Venta popular eatery. The bar is always room. Closed on Sunday evenings. 2 Francisco de Goya st. Los crowded. Closed on Sundays. Cortijillos. Los Barrios. T 653 Venta El Frenazo 599 082. Famous for its rice Callos con garbanzos (Tripe and Jerez - Los Barrios road. Km 96. dishes. Make with chantarelas Chickpeas) Salida 80. Los Barrios. T 956 620 (mushrooms) with acorn-fed pork, Casa Dioni 814. Only breakfasts and . with perdices (partridges) and with 44 Sevilla st. Algeciras. T 956 Chicharrones (pork scratchings lomo or orza (marinated pork loin). 661 091. Home cooking. Clam cooked in lard) from nine in the Closed on Sunday evenings and all and concha clam dishes. Snails morning. Refrito barreño a typical day Mondays. in season. Closed on Sunday asparagus soup, prepared to evenings and all day Mondays. order. Closed on Tuesdays.

37 Enchanting tales and La Línea de delicious food la Concepción and San Roque

Stories from Africa, a hearty breakfast, a 19th-century market, Italian-style stews, a ship moored in a park where mouth-watering tapas are served, pulpo asado (roast octopus), the stories told at La Marina just a stone’s throw away from the beach. There are many tales to be told in San Roque and La Línea...

Foodies must-sees A traditional spot

A market brimming with Traditional stews. Rosa Duque produce. La Concepción is the chef at Casa Bernal. market is known for This restaurant, located in having the widest range of Campamento (San Roque), produce in El dates back to the 19th century Campo de and its homemade stews Gibraltar. are made using recipes Built passed down through at the the generations. Rosa end of makes a mouth- the 19th Af watering menestra rica century, n rolls de verduras con fi deos this market is one of the ( stew with noodles) busiest in the region. At or callos con garbanzos Casa Bernal Bar Francis, you can enjoy (tripe and chickpeas) and still the bollos africanos (African prepares the rosto, a pasta dish rolls), a bocadillo de fi lete from La Línea that was brought The photo de lomo con especias, from Italy. A boat moored in a park. mayonesa y cebolla frita The El Barco Restaurant is (spicy hot pork roll with in the Reina Sofía park in La mayonnaise and fried Línea. This restaurant inside onion) San Roque’s market the boat and whose deck is is also well worth a visit. used as a summer terrace is famed for its cuisine: fi sh, particularly fried, and meat. Many gourmet events are organised throughout the year. Rosa Duque El Barco restaurant

38 SOUP AND STEW ROUTE Real musts

5 gourmet routes. San Roque Town Council has set up 5 gourmet routes, where you can taste the best of the town, rather than just take photos of its sights. You can fi nd the routes on the council website and they go from the old

El Balti town to San Roque Station.

TAPAS

El pulpo asado (roast octopus) At La Barca El Currito (fried spread with cream cheese and ham) Guadarnés restaurant Don Benito restaurant At Finlandia Where to linger over a meal (fried fi sh) La Marina At Tomillero Las berenjenas fritas (fried aubergines) At El Varal (El Balti) El queso de cabra con frambuesas (goat’s cheese with raspberries) At La Barrica

La Marina is well known throughout the . Located right on the beach in summer, it serves espetos de sardinas PULPO (grilled sardines on ) from May to September. But you can also try one of its traditional dishes, such as the caldero de la atunara (tuna stew) or more sophisticated fi sh dishes prepared by Iván Valero, the chef. It is one of the province’s few at La Marina BERENJENAS restaurants with a sommelier and it features over 250 wines on its wine list.

And Kamakura serves sushi, sashimi, tempura and teppanyaki, at its best. Great care is taken with choosing the raw materials and the QUESO presentation. Ideal spot for a different night out. Kamakura, Japanese restaurant

More suggestions on page 40. 39 ALL ABOUT LA LÍNEA AND SAN ROQUE

Currito Breakfast Bar Finlandia Where to linger over a meal Bar Francis 1 Castelar st. La Línea. T 956 La Marina Aurora st. La Línea. T 956 762 172 198. The currito is a piece Atunara Marítim av. La Línea. T 548. African rolls. Closed on of fried bread spread with 956 171 531. Closed on Sunday Sundays. Only open in the cream cheese and ham. Over nights from October to March. morning. 50 tapas. Different dishes featuring octopus. Closed on Restaurante Manolo Sundays in July, August and 1 Sol sq. La Línea. T 956 Foodies must-sees the fi rst fortnight of 764 308. Fish dishes are the Mercado de la Concepción September. house speciality. Closed on Isabel La Católica st. La Línea. Wednesdays. Closed from 20 T 956 173 265. Open in the Calamares fritos October to 5 November. morning from Monday to (fried squid) Saturday. Nuevo Restaurante Mireia Hermanos 18 Puerto Real st. La Línea. Mercado de abastos San Tomillero T 956 765 889. Arroz con Roque 125 Menéndez Pelayo carabineros (rice with red Poeta Antonio Machado st. San av. La Línea. T 956 170 266. shrimps), brótola rebozada Roque. T 956 780 160. Open Famous for its fried fi sh and (batter forkbeard), calamares in the morning from Monday to seafood. fritos (fried squid). Closed on Saturday. Wednesdays. Closed for a Brótola rebozada (Fried fortnight in September. forkbeard) A traditional spot Rest. Hernández Tomillero Restaurante Aqa Casa Bernal 55 Oquendo st. La Línea. T 956 Andrés Viñas av. Corner with 25 Real st. Campamento 767 499. Brótola is a white fi sh Príncipe de Asturias. La Línea. San Roque. T 956 698 409. that is popular in El Campo de T 956 767 844. Modern cuisine Homemade stews and soups. Gibraltar. They also have gallo and excellent views over the Closed on Wednesdays. Closed rebozado (battered John Dory). Rock of Gibraltar from the in May. Portions served. Closed on terrace and the restaurant. Tuesdays. Tapas or meals served in the Bar Torres dining room. Open every day. 1 Andalucía sq. San Roque. T Montadito de 956 781 631. Old photos of jamón (Ham open Restaurante el Guadarnes San Roque and the world of sandwich) 15 Guadarranque av. Estación bull-fi ghting. Breakfasts and La Bodeguiya San Roque. T 956 786 504. tapas featuring montaditos 3 San Pablo st. Small restaurant with nine tables (open sandwiches). Closed on La Línea. Open and fi rst-rate service. Retinto Sundays. sandwiches. beef and game. San Jacobo de rape (breaded monkfi sh). Papas rellenas (stuffed Something sweet Closed on Sundays. potatoes) Pastelería Okay Bar Lucas Restaurante Hibiscus 23 Real st. La Línea. T 956 176 4 Calderón de la Barca st. La San Roque Golf Resort 844. It has several shops in La Línea. shopping area. N-340 main Línea, San Roque and Algeciras. road. Km 127. San Roque. T 956 The japonesas rellenas de crema Berenjenas fritas (fried 613 203. (cream puffs) are the best sellers. aubergines) The torrijas () in Bar El Varal (Balti) Kamakura Lent. 8 Iglesia sq. San Roque. T San Roque Club. N-340 main 956 781 448. Picturesque road. Km 127. San Roque. T Tortas Fritas de domingo atmosphere. Very popular tapas 956 613 030. Exquisite (Sunday ) bar. Closed on Sundays. : Restaurante Juan Carlos. 65 sushi, sashimi, tempura Guadarranque av. Estación de Queso de cabra con and teppanyaki. San Roque. T 956 786 023. Only frambuesas (Goat’s cheese Closed on Sundays made at teatime on Sundays. with raspberries) and Mondays. A type of fried doughnut eaten Taberna La Barrica with honey. 54 General Lacy st. San Roque. Venta Manolo T 619 207 235. Basque-style bar San Martín del The photo with a wide range of pinchos Tesorillo road. Km (Basque tapas), grilled meat 14. San Roque. El Barco and fried fi sh. T 956 615 360. Princesa Sofía park. La Línea. T Lomo en manteca 956 170 362. Open every day. Queso de cabra envuelto en (larded pork) and hojaldre con melaza de miel traditional dishes, (Goat’s cheese wrapped in such as arroz con Tapas pastry and honey) tagarninas (rice with Pulpo asado (roast octopus) Bar de Tapas Don Benito golden thistles) or La Barca 10 Armas sq. San Roque. fi deos a la marinera 25 Santa María st. La Línea. T T 645 990 923. A very old (noodle and seafood 956 170 995. It is one of the establishment. Traditional casserole). Closed on city’s typical dishes. It is mainly tapas with an innovative touch. Thursdays. eaten during the July fair. Closed on Sundays.

40 More suggestions on page 43 food taken Jimena de la to new heights Frontera and

Food reaches new heights in Jimena and Castellar, not only because these villages are high up in the mountains but also due to the unique dishes served there. Picturebook countryside which is home to hidden treasures such as the Chanterelle mushrooms that grow in Los Alcornocales natural park, the game, the oranges from San Martín del Tesorillo or a dessert that is almost a museum piece, the Piñonate de Jimena, the typical honey and pine nut Arabic pudding that is the ideal way to fi nish a meal.

Breakfast Foodies must-sees There has been a mushroom market in Jimena since 2004, where the mushroom pickers take their wares to sell them. The market is only open during the season, more or less from November until the fi rst Dripping at Venta Chinela few months of the next Venta Chinela, right on year. In November, the the roadside, opens at half Fungi Science seminars past six in the morning. organised by the local You can start the day with council with conferences, Telera bread, a fl at, crusty visits to gather mushrooms white bread from the and tasting sessions in the Plácido Muñoz bakery, local restaurants are highly and the manteca blanca recommended. mushrooms con tropezones de carne o de hígado (white Tasty juicy Something sweet lard with meat or oranges. liver pieces) made During the On Fridays, Manuel León by the mother of season, from bakes delicious tortas de the Carrasco Lirio October to aceite (olive oil ) at his brothers that run May, a real bakery in Castellar. But you the establishment. must is to need to be quick and buy Later on in the day, stop at San them during the you can go back and Martín del weekend, feast on the lomo en Tesorillo or as they manteca (pork loin San Pedro de are soon in lard), served with fried Buceite to buy oranges. snatched egg, fried potatoes and You can buy them at any up. In peppers… which will really of the cooperatives or Jimena, set up for the day. greengrocers’ shops. the Estación bakery is known for its piñonate piñonate, biscuits similar to the alfajores that are made out of almonds, nuts and honey, and which are decorated with dried fruit.

More suggestions on page 43 41 TAPAS Where to linger over a meal The Molino del Conde is a unique restaurant in Castellar, right in the heart Los chicharrones of the Los Alcornocales (pork crackling) natural park. It serves At Virgil traditional dishes, such as the potaje de tagarninas Las chantarellas al ajillo (golden thistle stew) or (Garlic chantarelle mushrooms) At La Bodeguita Venado en salsa (Venison Stew) At La Cantina La carne en salsa Molino del Conde (Meat Stew) La Cantina At La Parada cordero lechal al horno Real musts (roast suckling lamb), alongside avant-garde Chantarelle mushroom dishes, such as langostino lovers claim that their smell envuelto en patatas y is really mouth watering. salsa wasabi (King prawn Then, that they are best served grilled. They are the signature ingredient of many different dishes at many of the restaurants in Jimena, and also in Castellar. They are available year round as they can CHICHARRONES be frozen. The Mesilla de los Angeles, La Tasca, El Ventorrillero, Las Rejas, dining room at Molino del Conde Cuenca, El Anón restaurants wrapped in potatoes all feature this unique and wasabi sauce). The ingredient and are the ideal restaurant is in a former spots to try it. 17th-century mill, where you can dine and listen to live music on Fridays and also enjoy lunch while VENADO your children go on a pony ride. There is also a special children’s menu. And care is s ja Re taken with every last detail. rab Las bit and mushroom at

42 ALL ABOUT JIMENA AND CASTELLAR

Castellar. T 956 693 202. Venison, Restaurante El Ventorrillero Breakfast game and meat stews. Closed on 2 La Constitución sq. Jimena. Venta Chinela Monday evenings. Closed in July. T 956 640 997. Jabalí en salsa Algeciras - Ronda road. Km 11. de Oporto (Wild boar in port San Pablo de Buceite. T 956 642 sauce), lomo de venado en salsa 158. Also open for lunch. Closed de moras (venison in blackberry on Mondays. sauce). Open every day.

Restaurante La Tasca Foodies must-sees 24 San Sebastián st. Jimena. T Lonja Micológica de Jimena 956 641 123. Crema de setas (Jimena Mushroom Market) (mushroom soup). Jabalí con Jimena - San Pablo de Buceite angulas de monte (boar with road. T 956 641 440. Only opens wild mushrooms). Closed on in season. Wednesdays.

Naranjas (Oranges) Chantarelas al ajillo (Garlic Restaurante Cuenca The oranges from San Martín del chantarelle mushrooms) 31 Los Deportes av. Jimena. T Tesorillo and from San Pedro de Bar La Bodeguita 956 640 152. Boletus mushroom Buceite, villages near Jimena, are 1 Jinaleta st. Jimena. T 956 640 carpaccio. Garbanzos con famous. They are harvested from 270. Also serves mushrooms tagarninas (Chickpea and golden October to May. You can buy and scrambled eggs, and acorn- thistle stews). Closed on Tuesdays. them from the San Martin (calle cured pork. Closed on Tuesdays. Tufa) or Buceite cooperatives, Restaurante Cacholla located in the outskirts. They are Carne en salsa (Meat Stew) La Cerejana road. San Pablo de also sold in the fruit shops in the Bar La Parada Buceite. T 956 642 353. Revuelto two villages. San Roque st. San Martín del de chantarellas (scrambled eggs Tesorillo. with chantarelle mushrooms). Venado en salsa con chantarellas (venison in a chantarelle Real musts mushroom sauce). Restaurante Los Arcos 8 Los Ángeles st. Jimena train station. T 956 640 328. Arroz Where to linger over a meal con conejo y níscalos (Rice with Restaurante El Aljibe rabbit and wild mushrooms). 3 Rosario st. Castellar. T 956 Guiso de pata (meat stew with 693 150. Part of the Castillo de typical local vegetables). Closed Castellar Tourist Complex. Wild Something sweet on Friday evenings. boar and Retinta veal. Soups and Panadería Manuel León stews, using local produce such as 10 Andalucía sq. Castellar. T 956 Restaurante Mesilla de los golden thistles. Open every day. 693 025. Tortas de aceite (oil Angeles cakes) fl avoured with cinnamon Algeciras - Ronda road, next to Restaurante Juan Curra and anis. Homemade sponge gas station. Estación de Jimena. Las Adelfas av. Castellar. T 956 cakes. They also sell brown T 956 640 297. Venado con 647 280 Meats grilled over bread. chantarelas (Venison embers. and chantarelle Panadería Ruíz Castilla mushrooms) El Molino del Conde (La Estación) Garbanzos con La Almoraima road. Km 43. T 956 38 Señora de los tagarninas (Chickpea 236 063. Closed on Mondays, Ángeles st. Estación de and golden thistle except in July and August. Only Jimena. T 956 640 097. stews). Closed on open at night every day in July Piñonate (candied pine Monday evenings. and August. The bar only opens nuts), empanadillas de at lunchtime on Saturdays and boniato (sweet potato Restaurante Las Rejas Sundays the rest of the year. pasties) Open every Algeciras - Ronda day. road, 150 metres from Casa Convento La Almoraima Jimena. T 956 640 328. Algeciras - Ronda road. La Excellent views. Rabbit and wild Almoraima. T 956 693 002. Carne Tapas mushroom stew. Scrambled eggs de caza (game). Booking advisable Chicharrones (pork scratchings) with chantarelle mushrooms and at weekends. Open every day. Restaurante Virgil ham. Closed on Mondays. 25 Andalucía sq. Castellar. T 956 Mesón Aragón 693 059. Tapas available at the bar Restaurante El Anón Situado frente a la gasolinera. or you can eat in the restaurant. 30-40 Consuelo st. Jimena. T Jimena train station. T 956 640 Venison and wild boar. Closed on 956 641 110. Dining area in 978. Meat grilled over embers. Mondays in August. an idyllic courtyard. Carrillada Closed on Sunday evenings and ibérica con chantarellas (roasted Mondays. Bar El Bodegón pig’s cheek with chantarelle 6 Alta st. Castellar. mushrooms), cordero al Restaurante El Fogón estilo marroquí con dátiles y 7 San Roque st. T 956 618 657. Venado in salsa (Venison Stew) berenjenas (Moroccan lamb with Beef, lamb and pork grilled over Venta La Cantina dates and aubergines). Closed embers. Closed on Tuesdays and Ronda road. La Almoraima district. on Wednesdays. a fortnight in September.

43 Alcalá de stews and los Gazules hearty soups and Benalup Casas-Viejas

Set right in the heart of the country where wild plants such as golden thistles and asparagus grow, where Payoya goats, Retinta cattle and game graze, Alcalá and Benalup are the Mecca of stews, hearty soups, meat stews to make your mouth water, and magnifi cent stews and soups that seem to cry out to be mopped up by the local bread.

Breakfast Foodies must-sees A traditional spot

The Puerto Galiz venta is on a crossroads (Alcalá, Jimena and ), within a stone’s throw of La Sauceda natural park. You can get there by car or by bike from Alcalá or, if you are feeling energetic, on foot. In winter, you can warm slice of bread at La Parada cheeses from Alcalá up in front of the roaring fi re The best way to start the day Alcalá is known for its here is with a slice of bread. It cheese making. Cheese is a slice of Telera bread, a fl at, used to be made in every crusty bread, as thick as your home in the town and thumb and which is served surrounding areas. A local toasted. It is usually brown farmer, Jorge Puerto, has bread, made out of wholemeal returned to the traditional fl our. It is delicious with methods and now local Sierra olive oil or makes cheeses the zurrapa blanca exclusively from (dripping with goat’s milk. You Puerto Galiz pork scraps) from should start by in the main room. It is very Embutidos Gazules. trying the fresh picturesque and the stews m ea prepared by María Pérez, the La Parada or Venta t cheese, then move ste w on to the organic semi- young chef, are just crying El Soldao are just two at El Soldao of the establishments where cured, followed by the cured out to be mopped up with Telera bread is one of their cheese in oil and fi nish with bread. Perdices (partridge), specialities. Then, if you decide the Rosemary-fl avoured jabali (wild boar) or venado to have lunch at this venta or one... and they will go (venison) are slowly stewed roadside bar, we recommend perfectly with any Telera just using oil, a little garlic the guiso de carne con hígado bread that you might have and a drop of wine. And then (meat stew with liver). left over from breakfast. garnished with chips.

Venta El Soldao partridge with chips at Pueto Galiz 44 Something sweet

And this is where you have to come if you love traditional desserts and pastries. The EXTRA-LARGE Horno de Luna bakery is in a CUP CAKE small alleyway in Alcalá. And Ricardín they still use a wood-fi red oven. You should try the tortas de (deep-fried sugar-coated ring TAPAS pellizco, cakes made out of doughnuts ) sold at the bakery sweet dough that are eaten known as Nuestra Señora del by breaking of small pieces Socorro will take you back to La asadura or pellizcos with your fi ngers, your childhood. And you can () and the large magdalenas or enjoy them with a cup of coffee At Dominguito cupcakes. The roscos fritos in the bakery’s coffee shop. El jabalí en salsa (wild boar stew) The photo Where to linger over a meal At La Parada Traditional and modern. Las delicias de solomillo Whether you like traditional a la mozárabe or modern cuisine, you (tenderloin escalopes in will fi nd something the Mozarabe style) to delight your At Casa Flores taste buds in La carne mechá La Janda. In (Pork Loin in Lard) Alcalá, El At Ricardín Campanero serves Alcauciles con gambas traditional (Artichokes with Prawns) local stews, st At La Cabaña asparagus, ew a t E tagarnina l Cam (golden thistles) and panero meat, together with El Gazul cheese. The oxtail served at Casa Pizarro in the heart of the town room in Hotel Utopía is really worth trying. La Lunch followed by a siesta. Tabla, the restaurant at La Fonda, the the Hotel Fairplay Golf restaurant at in Benalup, serves the Hotel author’s cuisine. We JABALÍ Utopía in recommend trying Benalup, the degustation has come menu that is up with changed every an original week according to idea, as you what is available in at can enjoy its Utopía the market. Booking degustation menu and recommended. then you can go for a siesta SOLOMILLO in one of the hotel’s rooms. After dessert, the guests can go to one of the rooms and enjoy a nap until seven

in the evening. And you Tabla at LaDessert really need to be awake to enjoy the cuisine, as it cleverly combines modern and traditional touches. Live ALCAHUCILES music provides the setting for dinner at the weekends.

More suggestions on page 46. 45 ALL ABOUT ALCALÁ AND BENALUP

T 956 424 191. The tenderloin Breakfast is simmered slowly with raisins, Horno Puerto de la Parada pine nuts and sweet sherry. The Hermanos Tenorio rebaná de pan moreno con Alcalá - San José del Valle Panadería Nuestra Señora del carne mechá y jamón ibérico road. T 956 233 111. Brown Socorro (slice of brown toast with larded loaves (1 or 2 kg). Open every 103 La Janda av. Benalup. T 956 pork and cured ham) is also very day from eight in the morning. 424 018. Roscos caseros fritos popular. Closed on Tuesdays. (homemade fried doughnuts) Venta El Soldao and piñonate, a pine nut Pulpo a la brasa (octopus Medina-Benalup similar to an alfajor grilled over embers) road. Los sweet biscuits. You can stop for Bar restaurante El Zahorí Badalejos coffee on the tiny sidewalk café. El Zahorí area. Benalup. T 956 district. T 956 Open mornings and evenings 424 648. Also serves carrillada 417 119. Pan con every day. en salsa (stewed pork cheek). zurrapa (bread Open mornings and evenings with dripping) for every day. breakfast. The tapa The photo known as “almuerzo” La Fonda del Hotel Utopía Solomillo ibérico al ajillo (garlic and marinated pork ribs 32 Doctor Rafael Bernal st. pork tenderloin) at midday. Open every day Benalup. T 956 419 532. Open El Rincón del Gordo for breakfast and lunch. every day. 1 Cañuelo st. Benalup. T 637 097 001. Barbecued meat. Also Retinto beef served at Foodies must-sees Tapas weekends. Closed on Mondays. Quesería El Gazul Asadura (chitterlings) (Cheesemakers) Bar Dominguito P 20 La Palmosa industrial area. 6 Alameda de la Cruz sq. Where to linger over a meal Alcalá. T 956 420 307. Open Alcalá. T 956 413 285. Hearty Casa Pizarro mornings and evenings every cuisine. Asadura is made using 9 Maritme av. Alcalá. day. Only open in the morning pork liver, tongue and kidneys T 956 420 103. As well as the on Sundays. cooked in lard. Other dishes oxtail stewed in a pine nut include chicharrones (pork sauce, game stews such as Embutidos Gazules (sausages scratchings), sangre en tomate corzo con moras (venison with and cured meats) (black pudding in tomato sauce) blackberries). La Palmosa industrial area and albóndigas (meat balls). (next to La Quesería). Alcalá. T Closed on Mondays. El Campanero 956 413 041. Pork scratchings Los Alcornocales av. Alcalá. freshly made in the morning. Jabalí en salsa (wild boar stew) T 956 420 408. Tagarninas Chorizo, sausages and pork Bar La Parada en croquetas (golden thistle products. Open a.m and p.m. 28 maritime av. Alcalá. T 956 croquettes) and berza (meat and Closed on Sundays. 413 110. Venison and wild boar vegetable stew). Tomato soup stew. Scrambled eggs with wild and hearty soups and stews. Venta La Palmosa asparagus and golden thistles, Homemade desserts. Closed on Jerez - Los Barrios road. when in season. Closed on Monday evenings. La Palmosa industrial area. Tuesdays. Alcalá. T 956 413 364. Have Cortijo Las Grullas breakfast here and you can Alcauciles con gambas La Janda av. Benalup. T 956 buy homemade bread, cured (Artichokes with Prawns) 424 192. Free-range chicken meats, sausages and cheese Bar La Cabaña with rice. There is also a version from the shop. Open every day. Los Alcornocales av. Alcalá. T using avestruz (ostrich). Open 956 413 201.The artichokes are every day. A traditional spot only available when in season (roughly from March to May). Restaurante La Table Venta Puerto de Gáliz Hotel Fairplay Golf. La Torre st. Cortés road. Km 53. Alcalá, Carne mechá (Pork Loin in Benalup. T 956 429 100. Jimena and Ubrique Lard) crossroads. T 956 231 486. Bar Ricardín Cortijo Los Monteros Open for breakfast and lunch. 4 Nuestra Señora del Socorro Medina-Benalup road. Km 6. Only open for dinner for sq. Benalup. T 956 424 054. Malcocinado. T 956 417 060. groups (pre-booking required). Founded 120 years ago by the Belonging to the same company Closed on Mondays. great-grandfather of Ricardo as Venta El Soldao. Retinta Rodríguez, the current owner. It veal and game dishes. Golden also has a Zamora cheese that is thistles and asparagus in season. Something sweet cured for over a year. Open for Open every day. Horno de Luna lunch and dinner every day.

Bernardino st. Alcalá. T á or 956 413 115. Truly unusual Delicias de solomillo a col eca mant products. Delicious molette la mozárabe (tenderloin bread with bread rolls fl avoured with escalopes in the Mozarabe aniseed. Open in the morning style) and afternoon from Monday to Casa Flores Saturday. 8 Manuel Sánchez st. Benalup.

46 with the Medina European seal Sidonia of approval and

The Medina alfajor (sweet biscuit with fi lling) is always gift-wrapped in bright colours and tied with ribbons at the ends. The European Union has awarded it a seal that protects its quality and origin. And justifi ably so. Before starting on the dessert, you should stop at a roadside restaurant and try some of the different local dishes, such as lomo en mateca (pork loin in lard), the tagarinas esparragás (golden thistle stew), rabbit and corn-fed chicken, and bread, which, of course, must be Paterna bread.

150 years of pastry making. Breakfast A traditional spot The Sobrina de las Trejas The Bar Rufi no in Paterna bakery was founded in is almost a place of Medina in the 19th century. pilgrimage. Many It sells a triad of lovers sweets: alfajores fl ock there (almonds and to taste its honey), amarguillos conejo en (marzipan and sweet salsa (rabbit potato cream) and stew). And the tortas pardas the secret is (almond dough fi lled rab simplicity itself: bit stew with candied pumpkin) “a lot of garlic, oil and that are local specialities and wine”, as explained by which you one of the sons of María must try. Erdozain, who has been But don’t perfecting this recipe for forget to more than 40 years. leave room for some more modern ALFAJORES Something sweet specialities, such as corrucos (scallop-shaped sponges), bizcochos Venta Andrés borrachos (Spanish drunken sponge cakes) or roquitas, Venta Andrés is located where which are slivers of almonds all good roadside bars are, on covered in chocolate. a crossroads, after the exit to Puerto Real from the Jerez-Los Barrios dual-carriageway. A good way to start the day is with a slice of pan de telera (rye bread)

á spread with or col eca manteca colorá mant bread with (lard coloured with paprika) A breakfast like that is a real treat. Don’t miss the chance to try it. Sobrina de las Trejas almond dough fi lled with candied pumpkin More suggestions on page 49. 47 BarCádiz

EL CASTILLO TAPAS The photo Las albóndigas en salsa Doggie-bags are always The restaurant specialises (meatballs with ) available at the El Castillo in faisán (peasant), cerdo At La Duquesa restaurant, right in old part ibérico (acorn-fed pork) and of Medina, so the clients can jabalí (wild boar), which all Las croquetas take their leftovers home. come with a good serving (croquettes) It is famous for its more of papas fritas (chips). It is At Bar Cádiz than generous portions. packed at weekends. Los chicharrones (pork crackling) Where to linger over a meal At Ortega There is a gourmet triangle Las gambas rebozadas in Medina, a triangle of (deep-fried three dishes, of three battered prawns) Medinas, that includes At Caliche the whole town. Venta El Duque is at the entrance to El aneto the town on the road from At Casa Paco Chiclana. A mother and son team work together to serve up traditional and modern cuisine. She learnt her skills slaving over the pots and he studied hotel management. Rabo de toro El Duque en salsa (oxtail stew) and Then there is Bar Cádiz in the helado de alfajores (almond Plaza de España. It has been and honey ice-cream) there in the square for over Their dishes showcase fi fty years. Its sidewalk café ALBÓNDIGAS a wonderful range of is the ideal spot to stop for a contrasts. The fi rst stop. tapa. Then, you should move inside for its excellent papas aliñás (potato salad) and perdices (partridges), which is the restaurant’s signature dish. The second stop.

Then, there is La Duquesa which is along the road to CROQUETAS Benalup. Pollo de campo (corn-fed chicken) is the main ingredient of a mouth- watering stew. Tagarninas esparragás (golden thistle stew), when they are in season. Carne de caza (game). You should reserve a table

CHICHARRONES at weekends. The third stop.

l

a

Bar Cádiz d

u q u e s 48 a ALL ABOUT MEDINA AND PATERNA

Gambas rebozadas (deep- Breakfast Something sweet fried battered prawns) Venta Andrés Confi tería Sobrina de las Trejas Bar Caliche Pto. Real - Paterna road. Km España sq. Medina. T 956 410 11 San Juan st. Medina. T 956 23. Cruce Autovía Los Barrios. T 310. Open every day. 410 200. Deep-fried battered 956 230 512. Telera bread with prawns, mejillones rellenos dripping or oil for breakfast. Confi tería Ntra. Sra. de la Paz (stuffed mussels) and local stews. Also recommended for tapas 14 San Juan st. Medina. T 956 Open every day. at lunchtime or to 410 161. Amarguillos (almond enjoy its meat cookies), alfajores (sweet San Jacobo or berza biscuits) and tortas pardas Bar Noelia stew. Open (sponge cake fi lled with sweet España sq. Medina. T 618 every day. pumpkin). They also boast a 981 062. Breaded pork fi llets Closed in the wide range of pastries and stuffed with cured ham and evenings. chocolates. cheese. Excellent albóndigas de choco (squid meatballs) and Convento de San Cristóbal carrillada (pork cheek). Closed Foodies must-sees 1 Hércules st. T 956 410 280. on Mondays. Paté de morcilla (black pudding Typical sweets from Medina. pâté) Open every day. Check the Sabores de Paterna. 25 opening times. Where to linger over a meal Cristóbal Barroso Mesón Rústico Machín st. Paterna. T Medina - Chiclana road. Km 956 416 112. The photo 2,5 (cruce de El Carbón). T 956 Factory producing Restaurante El Castillo 423 052. Tapas bar and unusual sausages and cured 3 Ducado de Medina Sidonia st. dining room. Excellent ox tail, pork products with T 956 410 823. Open every day. fi letitos de venado al ajillo (garlic shop open to the venison fi lets), pata de cabrito al general public. horno (roast goat’s leg) and the Open a.m. and p.m Tapas game. Closed on Wednesdays, from Monday to Carrillada en salsa (pork cheek except bank holidays. Friday and only in the stew) mornings on Saturdays. El Perro de Paterna Restaurante El Duque 8 La Constitución sq. Paterna. T 10 El Mar av. Medina. T 956 Country-style bread 956 416 047. Over 50 traditional 410 040. Paté de perdiz en dishes. Also serves lunch. Open escabeche (pickled partridge every day. paté), ox tail, molletitos de lomo en manteca (larded pork Aneto rolls), brazuelo de cordero al Casa Paco horno (roast shoulder of lamb). 52 Blas Infante av. Paterna. T Make sure you leave room for 956 416 269. Aneto is a chicken the desserts: alfajor cookie ice- Panadería Los Molinos. Cristóbal fi llet that is marinated and then cream, outstanding poleá (wheat Barroso st. Paterna. T 956 416 stuffed with cured ham and fl our with anis and 707. Brown bread freshly baked cheese. It is then coated in honey) Open every day. every day and some cakes. Open breadcrumbs and serves with a every day tasty sauce. Open every day Bar Cádiz 13 España sq. Medina. T 956 Rompope Albóndigas en salsa (meatballs 410 250. The restaurant is Convento de Jesús, María y with gravy) famous for its partridge and also José. Las Descalzas sq. Medina. Venta La Duquesa bar its game and ox tail. Excellent T 956 410 154. Rompope is an Medina - Vejer road. Km 3. Papas aliñás (cold potato salad eggnog-like drink made with Medina. drizzled with olive oil) eggs, milk, and vanilla fl avouring. They also sell pastries Croquetas (croquettes) Venta La Duquesa Bar Cádiz Medina - Vejer road. Km 3. 13 España sq. Medina. Medina. T 956 410 836. Golden A traditional spot Croquetas de espárragos verdes thistles in season. Game. Casa Rufi no (wild asparagus croquettes) End the meal with one of the 17 Blas Infante av. Paterna. T 956 and chocos en su tinta (squid traditional Medina sweets: 416 064. Rabbit and, when in in its ink). amarguillos, tortas pardas and season, wild asparagus and the alfajores. large snails known as cabrillas. Chicharrones (pork Open at fi ve o’clock in the scratchings) morning. Bar Restaurante Paco Ortega 10 España sq. Medina. T 956 Bar El Llanete 410 157. On Saturday, the El Llanete sq. Medina. Its chicharrones are cooked right caracoles (small snails) are before the customers. Excellent famous throughout the region. terrace for tapas. Dining-room The season begins at the end of for lunches and dinners. Open May and lasts until July. every day.

49 a city with a Jerez personal de la touch Frontera

Everything is different. Each place has its own special thing that makes it stand out and here it is its aromatic sherries, its brandies and its . Jerez will bring out the best of your sense of smell and you should be ready for truly mouth-watering experiences. Even the modern places refl ect traditional values and... the best of the area.

Breakfast Foodies must-sees The photo Pringá spread or Discovering the sherry, Chicharrones (pork vinegar and brandy. crackling). Everything in Jerez is The Venta de somehow linked to sherry. Cartuja roadside A visit to a local winery restaurant is just is a real must. You can outside the city

g n in the Lomopardo li ck ra district along the k c por road to Los Barrios. On Sundays, people line up to try its chicharrones (pork crackling) and to enjoy zurrapa (dripping with pork bits), a local delicacy. They spread it thickly on choose from one of the country-style bread most famous, such as the that is made at the Tio Pepe winery, ones restaurant. In the that put on shows, such g pin old part of the city, El as Williams Humbert, drip Volapié is a popular place to label museums, El Gallo Azul to have breakfast: Bread, such as the one ran by A glass of La Ina sherry or a “bollito” as they call it, Garvey, or small family- at midday. After visiting with pringá, a spread made run operations, such as the wineries, the market of meat, bacon, black Hidalgo, where you seem and just strolling through pudding and chorizo. If to travel back in time. the centre of Jerez, you you prefer something more But it is not just about should stop at El Gallo traditional try the churros sherry, as you also have to Azul, the sidewalk café doughnuts at La Vega, one try the vinegars or finish par excellence in Jerez, at of the city’s real icons, next a delicious meal with a midday. Linger over a La Ina to the market. brandy. sherry as you recharge your batteries, before setting off to experience everything else the city has to offer during the day. La Moderna is Gonzálezz Byass near by and churros at the market is another popular spot.

50 of tomato, bread, and Real musts garlic). In November, The tabanco sherry bars. after the grape harvest, These premises just serve the grape juice has sherry. They usually do fermented and has been so in small glasses. The made into wines, but it sherry is stored in the is still “alive”. Many of casks behind the counters the roadside restaurants in Calle San Pablo. The around the city then fly establishment dates back red flags to announce to 1934. A slice of tortilla that they are now serving (Spanish omelette) or a mosto or sherry wine. little pork crackling is the It is typically drunk with perfect way to bring out ajocaliente, a type of the best of the sherry. gazpacho. Domi, which is one of the restaurants Mosto (sherry must) and just outside the city, is an ajocaliente (warm purée ideal spot to try this. tabanco San Pablo

KIDNEYS IN SHERRY SAUCE TOMATO SOUP OX TAIL

Riñones al Jerez (kidneys and pulse stew) and sopa Something sweet in sherry sauce), berza de tomate aromatizada meat and vegetable stew con hierbabuena (minty Tocino de cielo (a rich and cola de toro (ox tail). tomato soup). Ox tail is caramel-topped custard). There are several different one of the typical tapas Legend has it dishes that are typical at El Volapié. Luisa Lara that this of the city. Kidneys are runs the there dessert stewed in sherry. Try them and shows off the skills was at Bar Rody, where Rosario that she has learnt from made Fanegas prepares some of her mother. These dishes in the best examples of Jerez are also on the menu at Jerez cuisine as she also makes Tendido 6, one of the city’s to use berza (meat, vegetable traditional restaurants up the eggs yolks to as the wineries cino de cielo used the whites to

Tendido 6 Tendido remove the impurities from the sherries. And it is a perfect way to end the meal with a glass of sweet sherry. The ideal spot to try this combination is on the La Rosa de Oro sidewalk café in Calle Consistorio. And don’t forget to leave room for some sherry chocolates that are made on the premises.

More suggestions on pages 53, 54 and 55. 51 s d a A traditional spot e r tb ee Juanito, the smile of Jerez. sw Faustino has been at Bar tomato sauce). The dishes are Juanito for years and will garnished with chips that are welcome you with his smile mouth-wateringly good. that has become the bar’s hallmark. Then, sit down Don Pepe, ham that speaks at one of its tables in the for itself. The ham test is roomy passageway next to performed in this well- the Plaza del Arenal square known restaurant in Jerez. and ask for the papas aliñas Bar Juanito When a dish of fi rst-rate (potato salad), masterfully fried fi sh. Start with a tomato ibérico de bellota (acorn- dressed with sherry vinegar. salad and some seafood that fed cured ham) is served Then, try the alcachofas is also freshly prepared on here, the waiter takes it (artichokes), albóndigas (meat the premises. The food is so to the table, he holds the balls), a little berza, some outstanding that it attracts dish vertically and the slices fi deos (noodles) and some numerous visitors even are stuck together which is exceptional huevos rotos though it is in a district next proof of the quality of the (scrambled eggs). You will to the Jerez ring-road. ham. want to return. Six tapas, six: El Volapié. Arturo, the The walls are covered with expert. photos from the world of bull- Arturo and fi ghting. They serve 6 tapas, his daughter 6 that are eagerly awaited Manuela are every day. These are the real masters at keys to their success: Cola frying fi sh. They de toro (ox tail), costillitas de choose the fresh cerdo adobadas (marinated fried fi fish sh that is brought pork ribs), menudo (stewed from Sanlúcar. The menu tripe), mollejas en salsa is changed to feature what is (sweetbreads in sauce), carne available, but there is always en salsa (pork stew) and an exceptional selection of carne en tomate (meat in a ham at Don Pepe

Where to linger over a meal

True artists of aromas. To be Mesa Redonda de Jerez, is a creations at the La Cruz Blanca a chef in Jerez, you need to master of this art. His papas beer bar in Calle Consistorio. know your sherries and how to aliñás is a fi ne example of this, The food is served in raciones create those aromas wafting along with his game stews (portions), but with from the mouth-watering which he perfectly fl avours a menu where dishes that are brought to using brandies, oloroso and it is hard to the table. Pepe Romero fi n o sherries. In the heart of the fi nd a dish Valdespino, the chef at the city, Julián Olivares, serves his that is less than very Cruz Blanca Mesa Redonda good. The presa con salmorejo (neck of pork with gazpacho cream) or the zamburiñas anto gallegas al fi no de Jerez jo (Galician sea scallops in sherry sauce) are just two of the exceptional dishes. The Venta Esteban, a well known restaurant just outside the city, is famous for its fi rst-rate home cooking, such as fried free- range eggs with chips, ham and fried onions.

52 ALL ABOUT

Sandeman Museum 8000 sherry labels. Breakfast Freshly-baked Telera bread with zurrapa de chicharrones (dripping). Venta de Cartuja. Lomopardo district. T 956 156 590. Pork scratchings freshly made in the morning on Sundays. Also known as a steakhouse. They sell excellent typical picos “liaos” (breadsticks) baked by the Juan Bodegas Garvey. Valle bakery. Closed on Monday Circumvallation road. evenings. Bellavista. T 956 319 650. Visits and sherry tasting. Collection Cafetería La Vega of wine labels, many of them from the 19th century. Call to book a visit. Closed on Saturdays and Sundays. Bodegas Sandeman. 10 Pizarro st. T 956 151 700. Arrope and organic vinegar Interactive museum. Sherry Más que vinos. B3 ground fl oor tasting and shop. Pie de Rey urbanization. T 956 180 873. AECOVI wine shop. The largest winery in Europe Sherries, wines and vinegars. Esteve sq. T 956 337 748. Just They sell arrope, a sweet sauce opposite the market. Churros made out of grapes heated doughnuts that they make at a low temperature. Closed themselves. on Saturday evenings and Sundays. Churros doughnuts and buñuelo fritters Honey museum Restaurante Bonilla. 9 Río st. Williams Humbert. N-IV main Rancho Cortesano. Cortes- (La Barca de la Florida). T 956 road. Km 641. T 956 353 406. Cuartillos road. Km 2. T 956 390 054. Buy some churros Visit around the winery, which 237 528. Guided visits. They doughnuts from the stall to have has won international prizes also have another shop in El with a coffee in the bar. Try some for its architecture. Sherry Zoco, a craft market in Plaza buñuelo fritters and a cup of hot tasting and horse show. Peones. Closed on Sundays. chocolate on Sundays and bank Check the programme days. holiday afternoons in winter. Tapa Sherry vinegars and home-cooked lunches at Brandy Fundador La Vinotería. 7 Lancería st. midday. Closed on Wednesdays. Bodegas Fundador Pedro T 956 340 065. Sherries, Domecq. 3 San Ildefonso st. T brandies and vinegars, Pringá meat spread with bread 956 151 500. One of the best- including the “25” reserve El Volapié. Las Delicias av. known brandies in the world. from the Paéz Morilla winery. corner with Paquera de Jerez. Visit and sherry tasting, with Closed on Sundays and every T 956 335 440. Lashings of tapas and food. Closed on day in August. stewpot meat spread on bread. Sundays. Closed on Sundays. Sherries, brandies and Fino La Panesa vinegars. Bodegas Emilio Hidalgo. 29 La Casa del Jerez. 1 Divina Clavel st. T 956 341 078. Pastora st. L3. T 956 335 184. Family-run winery producing Sherries, brandies, vinegars first-rate sherries such as and Tierra de Cádiz wines. La Panesa. Call beforehand Closed on Saturday afternoons to book a visit. Closed on and all day Sundays. Sundays. Meat and cold cuts from Brandy Fernando de Castilla acorn-fed hogs. Bodegas Fernando de Montesierra. Nazaret av. T 956 Foodies must-sees Castilla. 7 Jardinillo st. T 343 295. Meat, homemade Fish, fruit and vegetables 956 182 454. Limited edition sausages and hams from Mercado de abastos. Doña sherries. Its brandy is very acorn-fed hogs. Closed on antojo Blanca st. T 956 321 809. popular. Its also produces Sundays. Building dating back to the 19th vinegars. Call beforehand to century. Closed on Sundays. book a visit. Freshly-sliced hams La Casa de los Fino Tío Pepe Old sherries and paintings Jamones. 14 Madre Bodegas González Byass. 12 Bodegas Tradición. 3 de Dios st. T 956 Manuel María González st. T Cordobeses st. T 956 168 339 664. Acorn-fed 902 440 077. You can visit the 628. Long-aged sherries. hams sliced before vineyards and premises and then Collection of Spanish painters your eyes. Excellent taste the sherries and tapas. from the 15th to 19th sausages and canned Sherries available from the centuries. Wine shop. Closed produce. Closed on winery store. on Saturdays and Sundays. Sundays.

53 ALL ABOUT JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA Ultramarinos Bejarano Viña San Cayetano Bar Arturo 5 Unión st. Cold cuts, species and Morabita road (Carrascal district) 9 Guita st. T 956 330 012. Closed pulses. Magnifi cent setting. The T 687 593 451. Ajocaliente, on Sundays and Mondays shop is run by Cristóbal Bejarano, berza, menudo (stewed tripe) who is a real showman. Closed on and homemade stews. Open Restaurante Don Pepe Sundays and Mondays. at lunchtime from end of Jerez - Arcos road. Km 1,6. T 956 September until end of May 180 564. Famous for its monkfi sh Cold cuts, cheese and salted with prawns, clams and ham bits. cod Riñones al Jerez (kidneys in Closed on Mondays. Mantequería jerezana. 33 Algarve sherry sauce), berza meat and st. Magnifi cent range of sherries. vegetable stew and cola de Closed on Sundays. toro (ox tail) Tapas Bar Rody. 1 Chapinería st. Patatas a la brava (fried potatoes T 956 341 521. Berza only with a spicy tomato sauce) The photo on Saturdays, Mondays and El Almacén El Gallo Azul Tuesdays. Closed on Sundays. 8 Latorre st. T 680 448 232. Unusual 2 Larga st. T 956 324 509. setting and tapas. Creative tapas. Closed on El Volapié Sundays. Las Delicias av. Corner with Rollito solera Paquera de Jerez. T 956 335 440. La Solera La Moderna Closed on Sundays. Divina Pastora st. Building 3. L 35. T 956 320 251. They have been El Tendido 6 making this tapa for 20 years. 10 Circo st. (next to bullring). T Minced meat is mixed with salmon, 956 344 835. Urta a la roteña cheese, pork sausage meat and (Red band sea bream baked ham. The mixture is the fried and with vegetables). Restaurant served warm. and tapas bar where they serve ox tail. Vieiras al Molino (Molino-style scallops) Bar El Molino Something sweet 16 Arroyo sq. T 956 337 186. Tocinos de cielo (caramel egg Pieces of seafood in a béchamel custard) sauce that is then baked in the La Rosa de Oro. 7 Consistorio st. shell. Closed on Sundays in July T 956 338 408. Sherry chocolates and August. and homemade ice-cream. 67 Larga st. T 956 321 379. An Bocas de la Isla ideal spot to linger over a sherry. Convent sweets Bar La Marea Its Russian salad is famous. You Convento de las monjas Clarisas 3 San Miguel st. T 956 320 923. can still see a stretch of Jerez’s old “Madre de Dios”. 2 Manuel Local seafood, bocas de la isla city walls inside the bar. Closed Torres st. T 956 341 589. (crabs claws) and white prawns. on Sundays. Cortadillos (pastries with sweet Also fried fi sh Right in the heart of pumpkin fi lling). Tocino de cielo the city. Closed on Mondays. made to order and Christmas Real musts cookies in December. Pimientos del piquillo rellenos de The tabanco sherry bars. marisco (Piquillo peppers stuffed Tabanco San Pablo. 12 San Pablo Christmas cookies with seafood) st. T 956 338 436. Founded in Clarisas Convent. 2 Barja st. La Mejorana 1934. Pork scratchings or Spanish T 956 340 986. Wide range 12 Consistorio st. T 626 505 457. omelette with onion. Closed on of specialities, particularly at New tapas bar serving sherries and Sundays and Monday evenings. Christmas, which you can buy other wines. from these cloistered nuns. Vinoteca jerezana Tortillón de patatas (Spanish 4 Arcos st. Known as the Sherry Magdalenas (cupcakes) omelette) Museum. Unusual establishment Sta. Mª de Gracia Monastery Bar Maypa where sherry is served (Agustinas). 2 Santa María de 11 Ramón Cala st. T 956 335 882. directly from the Gracia st. T 956 343 632. This bar is famous for its huge cask in small Traditional and Christmas Spanish omelette that is served in glasses. Closed pastries. slices. They have been making it for on Saturdays and over 50 years. Closed on Sundays. Sundays. Teatime treats La Holandesa. 109 Berza meat stew with pringá Mosto (sherry Albadalejo st. T 956 336 spread must) and 529. Also cakes such as Mesón La Cueva bar ajocaliente (warm milk chocolate mouse and Jerez - Arcos road. Km 3,5 (next to purée of tomato, petazeta truffl es. Closed on the circuit). T 956 189 020. Closed bread, and garlic) Mondays. on Mondays in August. Mosto Domi. road. Km 2. Ntra. Sra. del Pilar property. T 609 177 708. Ajocaliente A traditional spot and other stews, such as berza Bar Juanito (meat and vegetables) or ox tail. 8-10 Pescadería Vieja st. T 956 They use vine tomatoes for their 334 838. Closed on Sunday ajocaliente. Open at lunchtime evenings. All day Sunday in from end of September to May. August.

54 ALL ABOUT JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA Caracoles (snails) Restaurante Prado one of Jerez’s leading chefs for Bar El mirador 1 La Paz av. T 956 335 550. some years now. Dishes with 12 Atlántico park. T Innovative dishes featuring local innovative touches. 956 321 405. Snails produce. Excellent wine list. when in season. Closed on Sunday evenings and El Bosque Mondays. 26 Alcalde Álvaro Domecq Sangre en tomate av. T 956 313 100. Catering (Black pudding in La Carboná Alfonso restaurant. Creative tomato sauce) 2 San Francisco de Paula st. international cuisine in the Bar Anselmo T 956 347 475. Specialises in middle of a park. Closed on 47 Pizarro st. T grilled dishes. Cantabria meat, Sundays and Monday evenings. 956 181 061. seafood and fi sh. Closed on Traditional tapas Tuesdays. Closed in July. El Olivo Comandante Paz Varela st. Pastel de berenjenas Mesón La Cueva T 956 302 212. Traditional (aubergine terrine) Arcos-Jerez road (opposite and modern cuisine. Original Mesón El Moscatel to the circuit). T 956 189 020. version of Spanish omelettes 4 Moscatel st. T 956 311 116. Spectacular range of seafood. and traditional dishes, such as Traditional tapas Winner of Local meat and stews. carrillada ibérica (pork cheek). several tapa-route awards. Closed on Sundays. Restaurante Las Vides Venta Esteban Jerez Hotel Management Papas aliñás (cold potato School salad drizzled with olive oil) 5 Einstein st. T 956 035 050. Bar Camino del Rocío Signature cuisine by Pepe 1 Cádiz st. T 956 331 229. Rosales who combines new textures with local produce. Garbanzos con langostinos Closed on Sundays. (Chickpea and king prawn stews) Maruzzella Restaurante bodegón rociero 2 La Estación sq. T 956 345 072. La Blanca Paloma Italian and . Trebujena road. Km 2,5. T 609 Pasta salad with Roquefort 1 Colonia Caulina (next to Jerez 117 270. Tapas and restaurant. cheese sauce. - Arcos road). T 956 316 067. Ajo de viña (warm garlic, Tapas and restaurant. First-rate tomato and bread purée) and El Cachirulo traditional cuisine. Its “antojo” carnes de cerdo ibérico (Iberian 7 Juan Carlos I av. T 956 159 is famous. The dish consists of pork products) 977. Innovative cuisine. Closed fried free-range eggs, ham, fried on Mondays. potatoes and fried onions, or Ensaladilla (Russian Sald) choose its berza con rabanitos Bar Barbiana Restaurante ecológico Sabores (meat and veg stew with 1 General Primo de Rivera sq. Hotel Chancillería. 21 radishes), or the cod. Closed on T 956 321 248. José Antonio Chancilleria st. T 956 301 038. Sundays. Barea has been making Some organic dishes. First-rate the same dish for 30 years: cuisine where the emphasis Venta El Albero potatoes, carrots, mayonnaise is on the genuine taste of the La Corta district. T 956 15 64 and Frigate mackerel. products. Closed for Sunday 21. Traditional stews, such as lunch. kidneys in sherry, the berza or Pimientos rellenos de gambas the menudo (tripe stew). (peppers stuffed with prawns) La Alternativa Bar Raúl 7 San Pablo st. T 956 343 961. La Posada Las Delicias av. Princi-Jerez. B Vegetarian dishes. Its gajos de 1 Arboledilla st. T 677 261 053. 13. T 956 321 579. Different patatas con tres salsas (potato Excellent grilled meat, fi sh and traditional tapas. Also portions wedges with three sauces) are seafood. Closed on Sundays. and dishes. Closed on highly recommended. Some Thursdays. fi shes with meat and fi sh. Venta Gabriel Closed on Mondays. Cortes road. Km 11, cruce con Cuartillos. T 956 189 508. Where to linger over a meal Restaurante Chiqui Traditional cuisine. La Mesa Redonda Arroyo Hijuela del Membrillar 3 Manuel de la Quintana st. st. T 956 304 943. Fashionable Venta Antonio T 956 340 069. Closed on establishment. Varied cuisine Jerez - Sanlúcar road. Km 5 Sundays. with some signature dishes. A-480 freeway, exit 23. T 956 140 535. Seafood, Sanlúcar La Cruz Blanca Restaurante El Gordo king prawns. One of the city’s 6 Consistorio st. T 956 324 38 Zaragoza st. T 956 169 icons. Closed on Mondays from 535. 080. Rice with King Prawns October to March. or asparagus. Clams with La Piedra artichokes. Closed on Mondays. La Cepa de Oro Lebrija av. Business Area. T 956 Closed on Sundays in July and 35 Porvera st. T 956 344 175. 087 522. Meat cooked on hot August. Very popular restaurant in Jerez. stones. Solomilllo de ternera Traditional cuisine featuring de Ávila con verduras (Ávila Casa Juan Carlos typical Jerez dishes. Its huevos a veal sirloin with vegetable Cortes road. Km 3,5 (El Pinar la fl amenca (eggs with ham and ). Also fresh fi sh Check roundabout). T 956 397 732. tomatoes) are famous. Excellent the opening times Juan Carlos Carrasco has been sherry list. Closed on Sundays.

55 Chipiona and Rota

Corrales, mayetos, tintilla and moscatel

Rota and Chipiona are both famous for their wealth of seafood and fi sh, along with their abundant market garden produce. The traditional fi shing technique developed in Chipiona used corrales or fi sh pens, while traces can still be seen of the mayeteria as the market garden smallholdings are known in Rota. Local , such as urta a la roteña (Red band sea bream baked with vegetables), bring together the best of the land and the sea. And a glass of Tintilla or Mocatel de pasas, two wines with their own personality, is perfect before, during or after the meal.

César Florido winery Foodies must-sees

Tintilla wine. This wine is made using the local tinta grape, which is very small and is used to produce a sweet wine that now seems to be enjoying a revival. You can find it at is a small museum on The Mayetería the local wineries, such as the local wines at the smallholdings. The El Gato, where is served Cooperativa winery and farmers who farmed the with tapas, or the Ferris they also serve tapas. small market gardens winery, which produces a around Rota were known first-rate tintitlla reserva. as mayetos. This farming method is still practised in the visitor’s centre that the local council has opened and where you tintilla can see the homes and tools that the farmers Raisin-like muskatel. The used. There are also small harvest is highly labour market gardens that the intensive. After the elderly of the town farm grapes are picked, they sun-dried grapes and which produce are laid out to be “solee” first-rate vegetables and or sun-dried. They dry fruit. out and become “pasa” El Castillito or “raisin-like”. They mayeto farmer are then pressed in the The Corrales fishing winery to produce pens. The Corrales are a sweet, thick and unusual fishing pens highly aromatic that you can see from wine. You can try Chipiona’s beach, which it at El Castillito is easily reached from de Chipiona with the city centre. They some cured pork are made out of stone. sausages or The fish entered buy it from them at high tide the César and could not get Florido or out as the tide went José Mellado out, when they wineries. There were caught.

56 muscatel Duque de Nájera

Real musts TAPAS Urta a la roteña and sauce made from local Las cigalas cocidas arranque. Urta (red tomatoes, green and red (steamed crayfi sh) banded sea bream) is peppers and onions. The At La Parada one of those fishes best versions can that feed off be enjoyed at El Los boquerones en adobo small . Embarcadero (Marinated Fresh Some of the and at the Anchovies) best urta Bar Bahía in At San Roque are caught Rota. The Las albóndigas de chocos locally arranque, (squid meatballs) and can a thicker At Emilio be bought version of from the Andalusian red m La tortilla de escombros cooperative stall, banded sea brea gazpacho and (mixed omelette) next to the fishing made out of local At El Volapié harbour. The urtas are produce, is served at Bar cooked in a vegetable Bahía and at El Torito. Las gambas en salsa tártara (Prawns in tartar sauce) At Casa Manolo Something sweet Where to linger over a meal

Chachipós and corrucos Seafaring berza stews. pastries. The Joselito El Even though Rota and Chato bakery in Chipiona Chipiona are known for produces sponge cakes their fish, two outstanding drizzled with brandy berza stews, an inland and cinnamon known as stew with pulses, chachipós. The typical dessert at La Rosa in Rota is corruco, a crunchy ALBÓNDIGAS hazelnut biscuit flavoured with cinnamon. They grapes sun-dried grapes both go well with a glass of tintilla or muscatel de pasas wine. corruco

b er za

vegetables, meat and TORTILLA pork sausages, can be enjoyed here. Try the version prepared by Dolores Díaz at La Pañoleta and Teresa Tirado, at Venta Aurelio, serves another masterful formula. Or another winter warmer is a dish GAMBAS of its menudo (tripe with chickpeas).

More suggestions on page 58. 57 ALL ABOUT CHIPIONA AND ROTA

Breakfast A traditional spot Meals with a view Cured ham roll El Chusco Bar restaurante El Timón Bar Edu`s. 4 Orfebre st. (Rota Industrial 13 Padre Lerchundi st.T 956 370 659. Rota marine. T 956 840 710. Area). T 625 550 432. Open until five Posters and pictures of or Local seafood, fish and rice Closed on Sundays. Chipiona. Tapas. Open every day. dishes. Closed on Mondays from September to June. Bodega El Castillito Foodies must-sees 11 Castillo st. T 956 372 601. Restaurante Los Corrales Moscatel de pasas wine Chipiona. Old town. Open every day. Las Canteras beach. Chipiona. Bodegas César Florido. 35-37 Padre T 680 984 578. Right on the beach. Rice and fish dishes. Lerchundi st. T 956 371 285. Chipiona. Tapas Open every day. Closed on Wednesdays. Pescado frito (fried fish) Moscatel Los Madroñales and wine Bodega La Mina Where to linger over a meal museum 27 Mina st. Rota. Cooperativa Católico Agrícola. 8-10 La Pañoleta Cigalas cocidas (steamed crayfish) Regla av. Chipiona. Bar serving tapas 4-6 Isaac Peral st. T 956 372 and portions. Open every day. Bar La Parada 144. Chipiona. Tapas and Carnaval way. T 615 421 577. Rota. restaurant. Open every day. Reserva de la abuela wine First-rate seafood. Only open from Bodegas José Mellado Martín. Rota Friday to Sunday from October Mesón La Piedra road. Km 3. T 956 370 197. Chipiona. to April. 16 Camaleón st. T 956 371 Open every day, but only Saturday 250. Chipiona. Barbecued fish Boquerones en adobo (Marinated and Sunday mornings. and meat. Corvina al oloroso Fresh Anchovies) (white sea bass in oloroso Tintilla wine Bar San Roque sherry sauce). Open every day. Bodegas El Gato. 12 María 4 San Roque sq. T 956 810 697. Auxiliadora st. T 956 810 203. Rota. Rota. Closed on Sundays Venta Aurelio Open every day. A-480 freeway Jerez - Albóndigas de chocos (squid Chipiona. 12 Montijo way. Tintilla reserva wine meatballs) T 956 389 473. Closed on Bodegas Ferris. El Pto de Sta. Bar Emilio Tuesdays Mª-Sanlúcar road. Km 16. T 956 363 30 Mina st. T 956 811 600. Rota. Very 400. Rota. Open in the morning from fresh fish. Closed on Tuesdays. Restaurante Shangai 1968 Monday to Friday. 49 San Fernando av. T 956 Ventresca de atún rojo a la plancha 810 557. Rota. One of the first Rock fish (grilled bluefin tuna belly) Chinese restaurants in . Stand of the Cooperativa de Bar Paquito First-rate cuisine. Closed on Pescadores del Mar de Rota. fish and Pío XII sq. Chipiona. T 956 370 105. Wednesdays. sport port. T 956 810 011. Open every Closed on Sunday from October day. Also bar that serves fried fish. to March. La Parrilla de Juan 24 San Fernando av. T 956 812 Small but delightful Tortilla de escombros (mixed 961. Rota. Top quality grilled omelette) Mercado de abastos de Rota. meat. Kobe beef. Closed on Compás del Convento st. Open in the Bar El Volapié Tuesdays. morning from Monday to Saturday. 10 Isaac Peral st. T 637 500 953. Chipiona. Spanish omelette with Parrilla Los argentinos The Corrales fishing pens many different ingredients. Open 74 Príncipes de España Playa de las Canteras, Chipiona. every day. Only Saturdays and av. T 956 816 410. Rota. Town beach where you can see the Sundays from October to June. Argentinean cookout and fish pens. sirloin steaks. Closed on Gambas en salsa tártara (Prawns in Mondays. Centro de Interpretación de la tartar sauce) Mayetería Casa Manolo Chantarella Camino de Sta. Teresa. Rota. T 956 3 Padre Lerchundi st. T 956 371 800. Corvina st. Pl. del Mar. Costa 846 345. Call to arrange a visit. Chipiona. Traditional tapas. Closed Ballena. T 626 564 457. Rota. on Sundays, except in summer. Innovative cuisine produced by the young Victor Piñero. Open at weekends from October to Something sweet Real musts June. Open every day from Pastelería Joselito El Chato Restaurante El Embarcadero June to September. 28 Cruz de Mayo st. T 956 371 650. Hotel Duque de Nájera (Rota). 2 Chipiona. Open every day. Lolita Gravina st. T 902 223 329. Open every day 1 Almadraba st. T 956 815 541. Hojaldres a la vainilla (vanilla Rota. Signature cuisine from pastries) Bar Bahía Lola González Fuentes. Cod Pastelería San Diego. 24 Rubén Darío 9 Guillén Moreno st. Virgen del Mar and duck. Closed on Mondays, st. T 956 815 153. Rota. Open from except in August. Tuesdays to Sunday. urbanization. T 856 112 130. Rota. Closed on Tuesdays. Restaurante La Brisa Corrucos pastries Bar El Torito Marítime av. (Next to Virgen Pastelería La Rosa. 1 Virgen de 1 Italia st. T 956 813 369. Rota. Open del Mar). Rota. T 956 846 504. Candelaria st. Rota. T 956 816 505. Local fish. Closed on Mondays. Open every day. every day.

58 Treasures on Sanlúcar de the river bank Barrameda and Trebujena

Sanlúcar and Trebujena are home to some of the province’s gastronomic treasures.Langostinos de Sanlúcar (Sanlúcar King Prawns) are one of the most sought–after delicacies of Cadiz’s cuisine. In Trebujena, some angulas (eels) are still caught and both are wonderful washed down with a glass of manzanilla, a wine with its own personality and which is only produced in Sanlúcar. Or chose a glass of Trebujena mosto (must) wine, which is honoured in a unique festivity in November.

Foodies must-sees is celebrated to mark the arrival of the first The magical velo de flor. wine: mosto, the recently Manzanilla is a wine that fermented wine and is very similar to fino which still has not started sherry. The location of ageing. It is a lively, the Sanlúcar wineries, cloudy wine and with that close to the sea, means special taste that shows that as the wine ferments it is the genuine product. in the casks, a layer You can taste it at the forms that isolates the small bars that open in wine from the air, which this town from October is known as velo de to December and you flor. After the crianza can also buy it from the or ageing process, the Cooperative store. The wine thus develops its mosto fair is held on the own unique taste with a first Sunday of December. faint briny tang. You can Have a glass of wine with find different types of a garbanzos con conejo manzanilla (rama, fina, stew, which is a stew pasada), which refer to where the garbanzos or their different ageing chickpeas are cooked as processes. You should try if you are making a rabbit them all… You can learn stew, but there is actually more about this wine at no meat in the dish.

Barbadillo winery Manzanilla grapes La Sacristía the museum run by the winery and the unusual dramatised visit organised by the Argüeso wineries. The Tienda La Sacristía sells a wide range of wines and you can also try there the large collection of Max Meridia products made with salt.

The garbanzos “disfrazados” (chickpeas “in disguise”) festivities. In Trebujena, the harvest

More suggestions on pages 62,63 and 64. 59 Real musts

Langostinos (King prawns). Acedías Patatas con melva They are caught by the fritas (fried (Frigate Mackerel local fi shermen and are fl ounders). and Potato Salad). therefore not available Flouers, which Barbiana is a bar every day. Apart from the as like small located in the Plaza quality of the shellfi sh, the sole, are a del Cabildo square. method used to prepare it is fl atfi sh. They The bar is tiny, but fundamental. Fernando and are very tasty it has a wonderful Paco Hermoso, the brothers and the best sidewalk café. The that work at Casa Bigote, way to eat bar is best known for have truly perfected the art. them is fried its wonderful cold They prepare the seafood to make sure potato salad, which just before it is served to the fl esh does is simply potatoes ensure it is eaten at its not dry out. dressed with oil, best.. A glass of Manzanilla Even though Sherry vinegar, a little turn it into an even more Casa Bigote is spring onion, parsley agreeable experience. known for its and salt. It is served excellent fried warmed and topped fi sh, La Gitana, with a generous in the Plaza del serving of canned Cabildo square, frigate mackerel, is also worth which is a fi sh similar visiting. Fried fi sh is best to tuna and is canned in eaten using your fi ngers, Tarifa. You should try the as it somehow tastes even delicious galeras (local better this way. shrimps) when in season.

Casa Bigote Barbiana 60 Tortillitas de camarones Coquinas al ajillo (Garlic Angulas (eels). Some (shrimp fritters). Casa Coquina clams). Coquinas eels are still caught in Balbino is one of the are a type of tiny clam. Trebujena on the mouth legendary places to eat in There are not always easy of the River Guadalquivir. Sanlúcar. It is a tapas bar to fi nd, but are a really The best place to try them that features a long list of delicacy if you come across is at “El Litri”, where they dishes. The most popular are them. The best place to try are just fried in garlic its tortillitas de camarones, them is at El Poma, one of and served with a fried a crispy made out of the restaurants on the Bajo egg. The berza (meat and chickpea batter, tiny shrimps, de Guia, where they are vegetable stew), the carne spring onions and parsley. served in a dressing of oil, mechada (larded pork) Then, choose more tapas Sanlúcar Manzanilla, garlic or the lubina de estero from the truly wide selection and parsley. a la espalda (grilled sea of dishes: pescado en bass cooked with garlic, adobo (fried marinated fi sh), pepper and lemon ) are salmorejo (Gazpacho cream), all worth trying. Venta Las albóndigas (meat balls), Compuertas is also known aliños (different salads)... for its eel dishes.

Something sweet

Tortas de aceite de Guerreo (Guerrero olive oil cakes). They are often called the La Merced pastries, although some people prefer to call them after the master baker, Juan Guerrero. The Guerrero family has been making pastries and teatime treats for 50 years. Their speciality is their crispy torta de aceite whose trade mark is the almond in the centre of the cake la merced

Where to linger over a meal

Desserts with a woman’s con crema de muscatel touch. After so many (Muscatel custard and delicious savoury dishes, fruit) or the tarta de fi nish your meal with one plátano (banana pie) At El Veranillo of the traditional desserts , Juana de los custard rich caramel made by the local women. Santos makes a wonderful Mari Palomeque runs tocino de cielo (rich Taberna EL Loli and she caramel custard) and she is known for her delicious adds almonds to give it a desserts, including frutas fi nishing touch.

More suggestions on pages 62, 63 and 64. 61 ALL ABOUT SANLÚCAR AND TREBUJENA

San León and Las Medallas Breakfast Manzanillas and dramatised Hospedería Duques de Medina tours Sidonia Bodegas Argüeso. 8 Mar st. 1 Condes de Niebla sq. Sanlúcar. Sanlúcar. T 956 385 116. Shop T 956 360 161. 16th-century with products from the winery. palace. A different yet delightful Dramatised tours. Open in spot. Enjoy the peace and the morning from Monday serenity of its courtyard as you to Saturday. Call to book a enjoy a coffee, with a slice of dramatised tour. bread or a homemade sponge cake. Tea and coffee also served La Guita Manzanilla in the late afternoon. Open Grupo Estevez Hijos de Rainera every day. Pérez Marín. Jerez - Sanlúcar road. Km 1. T 956 321 004. You can buy this wine and the company’s other products Aurora Manzanilla wine and direct from the winery. Open Punto Azul Brandy in the morning from Monday Bodegas Pedro Romero. 84 to Friday. Trasbolsa st. Sanlúcar. T 956 360 736. Shop with products from La Goya Manzanilla the winery. Call to arrange a visit. Bodegas Delgado Zuleta. Rocío Visits after dark also organised Jurado av. Sanlúcar. T 956 360 in summer. Open in the morning 543. Shop open to the general from Monday to Saturday. public from Monday to Friday and on Saturday mornings. Bar El Corcho y Cafetería Pozo Manzanilla Wine museum Closed on Sundays. Call to 12-14 Trascuesta st. Sanlúcar. book a free wine tasting. Next to the market. You can sit back and enjoy the hustle and Trebujena Mosto wine bustle going on around you. Cooperativas Palomares y Open every day until the market Albarizas. 82 Sevilla av. T 956 closes. 395 106. Trebujena wines (white and sherries) from the Venta Bar Manolo cask and in bottles. Mosto Sanlúcar - Trebujena road. Km new wine in season. Closed on 1. T 956 395 838. Right on the Sundays. roadside. Pastries and different types of bread. Fish stews and Virgin olive oil picos Trebujena eels, when available (breadsticks) from the market, at lunchtime. Picos San Rafael. Correos st. Bodegas Barbadillo. 6 Sevilla st. Salmedina district. Sanlúcar. Sanlúcar. T 956 385 500. You will T 956 361 231. Delicious Foodies must-sees learn about the whole process breadsticks made using virgin Mercado de abastos Sanlúcar to make and age manzanilla and olive oil. Closed on Sundays. Trascuesta st. Market with Jerez wines as you go through outside stalls selling vegetables, the seven rooms. Shop selling pastries and other products. manzanilla from the cask or A traditional spot Look for the fi sh and olive stalls Solear, along with more unusual La Habana inside the building. Closed on products, such as peach brandy. 50 Santo Domingo st. Sanlúcar. Sundays Open in the mornings, except on Manzanilla wine merchant’s that Sundays. dates back over 100 years old. The wine, from the Argüeso La Cigarrera Manzanilla winery, is served directly from Bodegas La Cigarrera. Madre de the casks. Enjoy a glass with Dios sq. Sanlúcar. T 956 381 285. a helping of Aliños (different Winery with a typical Andalusian salad) and cazón a la roteña courtyard right in the centre of (dogfish in a tomato and the town. It was founded in the pepper sauce). Open every 18th century and still belongs day. to the same family. Tours with tasting sessions in the morning Bar Casa Pedro Hernández from Monday to Saturday. 67 Bolsa st. (Corner with Mar). Sanlúcar. T 956 360 571. Inn Vinoteca La Sacristía del Marco La Gitana and Pastrana serving wine from the cask or de Jerez Manzanilla wines by the glass to enjoy over a 23 Rubiños st. Sanlúcar. T Bodegas Hidalgo-La Gitana. portion of cold cuts, cheese 697 826 096. Sherries and Calzada del Ejército st. Corner or salad at the bar. The wine is Sanlúcar wines, with long-aged with Hermano Fermín. Sanlúcar. kept in casks and is from the wines. Tastings organised. T 956 385 304. Shop next to the Zuleta and Argüeso wineries. Wide collection of salt-related winery. Call to book a visit. Open The inn, which is over 100 products made by Max Meridia a.m. and p.m from Monday to years old, is in a 17th-century from Sanlúcar. Closed on Friday and only in the mornings building. Closed on Saturdays Mondays. on Saturdays. and Sunday evenings.

62 ALL ABOUT SANLÚCAR AND TREBUJENA

1 La Jara way. Sanlúcar. Tapas T 956 365 222. We recommend Corvina en salsa de cigalas the fi sh platter: marinated (Corvina fi sh in a crayfi sh fried hake, Sanlúcar fl ounders, sauce) battered squid and fried Taberna Casa Bigote prawns. Closed on Thursdays. T 956 362 696. Sanlúcar. Bar at the famous Casa Bigote Ajo caliente restaurant in Sanlúcar. Closed Bar Los Aparceros on Sundays. 21 Pozo Amarguillo st. Sanlúcar. T 600 860 927. It is a type of Albóndigas de rape en salsa gazpacho that is served hot. It de langostinos (monkfi sh is typically served with a glass meatballs in a king prawn of Mosto new wine, but you sauce) can enjoy it here all year round. Bar El Cura Famous for its Mosto new wine 2 Amargura st. Sanlúcar. T 956 during the season. Open every 360 061. Prize-winning tapas in day. Something sweet 2006. Fish stews. Open every day. Temblaera frita (fried common Rondeñas de cabello de angel torpedo) (sweet pumpkin pastries) Mero a la roteña (grouper Casa Perico La Rondeña. La Rondeña av. baked with vegetables) 27 Doctor Salvador Gallardo Sanlúcar. T 956 361 680. The Taberna de Juan st. Sanlúcar. T 600 742 061. rondeña, a pastry made by this 33 Cabildo sq. Sanlúcar. T 956 Traditional bar serving unusual company, is very popular for 363 444. Large variety of fi sh dishes, such as the temblaera (a breakfast throughout Andalusia. stews. Open every day. type of skate) or almejas fi nas It is a small soft cake with a sweet (Venus clams). Very popular. pumpkin fi lling. It boasts a wide Solomillo a la plancha con Closed on Mondays range of typical polvorones jamón de bellota (Grilled and mantecados at Christimas. tenderloin with cured ham) Espuma de langostinos (King Closed on Sundays. Bar San Roque “Casa Ballén”. prawn foam) 7 San Roque sq. Sanlúcar. T Cervecería La Pipiola Homemade ice-creams 956 960 371. Tortillitas de 1 Victoria st. Sanlúcar. T 956 Helados Toni. 2 El Cabildo camarones (shrimp fritters), 381 178. Delightful sidewalk sq. Sanlúcar. T 956 362 213. fried fi sh and arroz a la marinera café overlooking a square in Homemade ice-creams. Well- (seafood rice). Open every day. the centre of Sanlúcar. Beautiful known for its ice-cream cake setting. Different tapas with made out of sponge cake and Solomillo de la casa (Chef’s homemade pâtés or empanada chocolate and vanilla ice-cream. tenderloin) (tuna pasty). Open every day. You can enjoy a slice on its side Bar Juanito walk café. The ice-cream parlour 18 San Roque sq. Sanlúcar. Bacalao a la naranja (cod in an is over one hundred years old. T 956 368 137. Unusual dish orange sauce) Open even day from the 19th where acorn-fed tenderloin Casa Bienve March to October. is served with onions, chips, V Centenario av. Corner with peppers, fried egg and virgin Nao Victoria. Sanlúcar. T Tortas de aceite (olive oil cakes) olive oil. Open every day. 956 368 398. Stews such as Bollería La Merced Casa pez espada a la Manzanilla Guerrero. 72 Ancha st. Sanlúcar. Acorn-fed pork sausages (swordfi sh in Manzanilla wine) T 956 360 377. Sells pestiños Despacho de Vinos Las Palomas Open every day. (honey-coated fried pastry) Carmen Viejo st. Corner with all year round. Wide range Trascuesta. Sanlúcar. Delightful Tagarninas con huevo (Golden of homemade polvorones at establishment belonging to the thistles with fried eggs) Christimas. Closed on Sundays Yuste wineries, where you can Taberna del Guerrita and Saturday afternoons. enjoy a glass of wine straight 23 Rubiños st. Sanlúcar. T 956 from the cask, served with some 364 883. Traditional inn with Bizcotelas (fancy cakes) cold cuts and salads. Open an excellent range of wines. Confi tería Pozo. 16 Ancha st. every day. Traditional stews and salads. Sanlúcar. T 956 362 913. This Closed on Mondays. tearoom opened a hundred years Bonanza fried fi sh ago and is a real icon, that is Bar La Espuela Paletilla ibérica de bellota known for its Bizcotelas (sponge 12 Palomar st. Sanlúcar. T 856 (acorn-fed cured pork cakes with crispy meringue on 130 154. They buy the fi sh fresh shoulder) top) or the meringues. Also from the Bonanza de Sanlúcar Casa Ramírez (“El Gordo”) serves desserts such as the Jerez, fi sh market every day. Acedías 5 La Salle sq. Sanlúcar. T 956 Caiman or Kennedy, in honour of (fl ounders), cazón (dogfi sh), 363 108. They hand slice the the assassinated US president pijotas (whiting) and joints that they bring from chocos (squid). Mosto Cumbres Mayores. It is Tocinos de cielo (caramel egg new wine in season. served with breadsticks custard) Open every day. or in a bread roll. Also Dominicas Convent Madre de cheeses, cured Dios. 1 Ruiz de Somavia st. Surtido de sausages and Sanlúcar. T 956 360 596. Open pescado (fi sh tinned produce. in the mornings from Monday to platter) Closed on Saturday. Bar El Dique Sundays

63 ALL ABOUT SANLÚCAR AND TREBUJENA

seafood, with live lobsters in a Real musts Where to linger over a meal tank in the window. Also known Langostinos cocidos (boiled La Sacristía for its seafood stews and fried king prawns) Goleta st. Espíritu Santo fish. Closed on Mondays, except Casa Bigote. Bajo de Guía av. urbanization. Sanlúcar. T 956 in July, August and September. Sanlúcar. T 956 362 696. They 380 955. Friendly staff serving also serve excellent fried fish grilled meats and stews. Closed El Veranillo and fish stews. Closed on on Mondays Cerro Falón way (next to the Sundays. maritime av.). Sanlúcar. T La Belle Cousine 956 362 719. Apart from the Acedías fritas (fried flounders) 1 Sierpes st. Sanlúcar. T 856 135 manjar celeste (traditional Bar La Gitana. 15 El Cabildo sq. 142. Dani Martínez, the young almond dessert), the guiso Sanlúcar. T 956 382 014. Open chef, produces innovative dishes de patatas con langostinos every day. using traditional products. Tapas (potato and king prawn stew) or restaurant. is very popular. It is better to Coquinas al ajillo (Garlic order the dish beforehand, as Coquina clams) Bar Parada (El Gallego) it really needs to simmer for a Restaurante Poma. Bajo de 4 La Paz sq. Sanlúcar. T 956 long time. Shellfish and duck Guía av. Sanlúcar. T 956 365 361 160. Unusual establishment rice dishes, along with the 153. King prawns and fried fish. where they serve huge portions. traditional delights of Sanlúcar, Open every day. The portion of fried fish weighs such as the langostinos metiós a 1250 grams and you get a kilo en tomate frito (King prawns Patatas con melva (Frigate of boiled king prawns in one in tomato sauce). They serve Mackerel and Potato Salad) helping. Perfect for groups or if their own Manzanilla wine that Barbiana. 1 Isaac Peral st. you are starving. The customer is aged in a cellar near to the Sanlúcar. T 956 362 894. They buys the food from the bar and sea. Closed on Mondays also serve king prawns, boiled then eats it at one of the tables. prawns and shrimp fritters. Closed on Mondays. Taberna El Loli Manzanilla wine that they age 16 Pozo Amarguillo st. themselves. Open every day Bar restaurante La Campana Sanlúcar. T 956 369 673. 69 Puerto Barrameda av. Delicious salads, such as the Tortillitas de camarones Sanlúcar. T 691 110 956. Next ensaladilla de pulpo (octopus (shrimp fritters) to the Bonanza fishing harbour, and potato salad), fish stews Balbino. 14 Cabildo sq. the best place to get fresh fish and mouth-watering desserts. Sanlúcar. T 956 360 513. Open and seafood. Closed on Sunday Open every day in July and every day. evenings. August except Mondays. Only open on Fridays, Saturdays Angulas (eels) Restaurante Joselito Huerta and Sundays during the rest of Bar restaurante El Litri. 27 Larga 30 Bajo de Guía av. Sanlúcar. the year. st. Trebujena. T 956 395 134. T 956 362 694. Seafood stews. Open every day. Also fried fish and shellfish. Venta Las Compuertas Closed on Mondays, except in Guadalquivir av. Trebujena. T July and August. 956 237 233. Next to the Los Meals with a view Riacheros cooperative, where it Venta Andrés Casa Juan buys the eels and estuary fish Alga st. (La Jara road). Sanlúcar. 26 Bajo de Guía av. Sanlúcar. served in the restaurant. Also T 956 389 476. Fish stews. T 956 362 695. Turbante de langostinos al ajillo (garlic king Restaurant overlooking the lenguado (turban of sole). prawns). Closed on Mondays. beach. Open every day in July and August. Only open for Casa Paco Secundino Venta El Quinto lunch on Saturdays and Sundays 16 Bajo de Guía porch. Sanlúcar. Doña Ana way (Montealgaida during the rest of the year. T 956 366 884. Clams, arroz road). T 956 366 709. Rice marinero (seafood rice), cazuela dishes with duck, with venison de rape a la marinera (monkfish or with wild boar, along with a and seafood stew) and urta a few other dishes, prepared by la roteña (Redband sea bream Caridad Molinares. The ideal baked with vegetables). Open spot if you want to eat rice. every day. Only open for lunch. Closed on Mondays. Restaurante Avante Claro Bajo de Guía porch. T 956 380 Restaurante Los Corrales 915. Sanlúcar. Fish, seafood 44 Calzada del Ejército st. and the traditional fish stews of Sanlúcar. T 956 364 906. Sanlúcar with some signature Extremely long menu with dishes produced by Manolo nearly 200 dishes and one Rodríguez and Antonio López. of the best wine lists in the Open for lunch and dinner from province, featuring a wide April to October. Only open for variety of Manzanillas from lunch for the rest of the year, the cask and in bottles. The except at weekends. restaurant’s signature dish is its ventresca de atún con salsa de Restaurante Mirador de marisco y piñones (tuna belly Doñana with seafood and pine nut Bajo de Guía av. Sanlúcar. T sauces). Also serves meat and 956 363 502. Wide range of fish. Open every day.

64 game at San José its best del Valle, Ubrique and Algar

There are several roadside restaurants near to San José del Valle that are noted for their game dishes. In Algar, it is served in fi lets, with a garlic sauce and as sausages, in the form of chorizo sausage. The game dishes can be enjoyed in Ubrique against the backdrop of the magnifi cent views. These are three musts along the route… and you mustn’t forget to stop for breakfast

Foodies must-sees Something sweet

Gañote pastries. The gañote is a typical cinnamon- fl avoured pastry eaten in Lent. It is cylindrical in shape and its dough is similar to that Embutidos de venado used for (venison sausages). pestiño Carnes Herva is pastries, famed for its game in but it is not gañote pastries the Sierra de Cádiz coated in honey. mountains. Ana la de Consuelo It uses traditional bakes them to perfection at recipes to produce her bakery in the Avenida de embutidos de venado la Diputación and at other (venison sausages), times of the year, you can try such as salchichón her bizcochos (sponge cakes), (cured spiced empanadillas (pasties) or the sausage), chorizo churros (deep fried dough and morcilla (black pastry) that you can buy for pudding). breakfast at the weekend.

A traditional spot Las Cuatro Esquinas Las Cuatro esquinas. open air painting The Las Cuatro competitions. Esquinas bar You shouldn’t is just a few leave without metres away tasting the from Ubrique pastel de museum. It berenjenas is rather more (aubergine than just a bar terrine) and as it hosts art the papas alioli exhibitions and potato salad (potato salad)

More suggestions on page 67. 65 VIEW OVER THE MOUNTAINS FROM EL MOJÓN DE LA VIBORA TAPAS Meals with a view The terrace at the Hotel El Mojón de la Vibora, Revuelto campero Sierra de Ubrique is an with views over the Los (scrambled eggs with ideal place to linger over Alcornocales natural park. potatoes and sausage) the delicious game dishes The third must is at La At La Tasca de Juande against the backdrop of Plaza restaurant where Foie de pato con reducción the surrounding mountains. they have begun to feature de Pedro Ximenez You can enjoy some cordero lechal (roast (Duck foie gras with asparagus or tagarninas suckling lamb) and cabrito a Pedro Ximenez sauce) (golden thistles), if they de raza payoya al horno At Palike are not in season, or some (roast Payoya goat), which El serranito mouth-watering game at are all sourced locally. (thin sliced cured ham, and thin, pan-fried pork chop served with a whole fried green pepper) Real musts Where to linger over a meal At Bar Carriles Venison and corn-fed El Laurel, creative cuisine. Las alitas de pollo chicken. Venison is one of This restaurant is right deshuesadas fritas the most popular game in the centre of Ubrique, (fried boned chicken wings) served in La Janda and the just a few metres from At Bar Cristina Sierra de Cádiz regions. the leather shops. Its Las It is a delicious meat, large picture windows (spicy roast potatoes) yet needs to be skilfully and the bright colours of At Casa Diego prepared. Filets of venison its frontage and inside seasoned with emphasise its novel oregano, thyme approach. In the and rosemary kitchen, José are served Antonio at the Luque offers Villa a menu that Hotel changes in Algar. frequently and REVUELTO The which features signature colourful dish at the salads, dishes El Granado using duck, o inn is pollo de At El Granad chicken or veal, campo guisado con and even occasionally arroz (corn-fed chicken fi sh. The desserts are a ALITAS stew with rice) delightful end to the meal at this restaurant, which El Laurel is one of the few serving imaginative cuisine in the Sierra de Cádiz.

dessert at El Laurel

66 ALL ABOUT SAN JOSÉ DEL VALLE, UBRIQUE AND ALGAR

Confi tería La Nave Patatas bravas (spicy Breakfast 6 Ejércitos Españoles sq. Ubrique. roast potatoes) Bar Moro T 956 461 603. Traditional Casa Diego. 5 España st. San José 54 España av. Ubrique. T 956 461 pastries. del Valle. T 956 160 814. They are 497. Churros doughnut and 20 served with two sauces made by types of rolls, range of cold cuts, the bar, one of which is rather spicy. country-style bread, Mollete bread Tapas Closed on Wednesdays. rolls. Closed on Wednesdays. Revuelto campero de morcilla (Scrambled eggs with black El Amanoe pudding) Meals with a view 41 La Diputación av. Ubrique. T La Tasca de Juande. 1 Serafín Restaurante Sierra de Ubrique 956 462 981. Mollete bread rolls, Bohórquez st. Ubrique. T 687 (Los Mellis). Ubrique - Cortes de country-style toast and tortas fritas, 527 730. Croquetas de cocido la Fra. road. Km 33,700. T 956 a type of French toast made on (stewpot croquettes), punta de 466 805. Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Saturdays solomillo al queso viejo (pork and Sundays. tenderloin with a cured cheese Restaurante El Mojón de la sauce) or setas a la plancha Víbora Restaurante Casa Juan (grilled wild mushrooms). Ubrique - Cortes de la Fra. road. 16 Doctor Solís Pascual av. (Los Km 40. T 956 234 307. Closed on Callejones). Ubrique. T 956 461 Foie de pato con reducción de Tuesdays. 795. Mollete rolls and country-style Pedro Ximenez (Duck foie gras bread. Tortas moras, similar to with a Pedro Ximenez sauce) Restaurante la Plaza French toast but with an Arabic twist Palike. 39B Ing. Juan Romero Jesulín de Ubrique av. (Bullring). from the restaurant’s Moroccan chef, Carrasco st. Ubrique. T 615 Ubrique. T 956 467 047 / 646 023 served on Tuesdays and Thursdays. 912 015. Creative cuisine. The 559. Closed from Mondays to Known for its wild boar. menu is changed frequently. Thursdays The owner, Margarita Venegas, Churrería Cervantes runs international cookery Cervantes st. (next to bar La Perla). courses. Closed from Mondays to Real musts Ubrique. Run by an elderly couple. Thursdays. Restaurante Hotel Sierra de Algar Venta Las Macetas Serranito Arroyo Vinatero way. Algar. 1 Andalucía av. Algar. T 956 710 Bar Carriles. 10 La Verdura sq. T 956 710 275. Closed on 313. Country-style bread and Ubrique. Tuesdays. chicharrones (pork scratchings) at T 956 462 894. A hot pork roll weekends. with green pepper and ham Mesón El Granado served with a side portion of Jerez - Cortes road. Km 28,5. Venta Durán chips. It has been featured on Majadal de El Granado. San 11 Parada st. San José del Valle. the menu for 20 years. The José del Valle. T 665 817 253. T 956 160 204. Very popular with asparagus omelette is also hunters. Country-style bread for popular. Snails in season. Closed Restaurante El Acebuchal breakfast and game dishes for on Mondays. San José del Valle to Parque de lunch. Los Alcornocales road (CA-511). Alitas de pollos deshuesadas About 5 km outside the village. fritas (fried boned chicken T 606 883 175. Specialises in Foodies must-sees wings) local lamb and goat. Closed on Carnes Herva Bar Cristina. 41 España av. Wednesdays. 29 Doctor Pérez Fabra st. Algar. T Ubrique. T 956 461 657. Over 90 956 710 084. Sausages made using tapas. The paté de berenjenas venison. Closed at weekends. (aubergine pâté) and the Where to linger over a meal boquerones fritos aliñados (fried Restaurante El Laurel Mercado de Abastos de Ubrique fresh anchovies with a garlic and 16 San Juan Bautista st. Fernando Portillo st. Corner with parsley dressing). Ubrique. T. 956 460 284. Central Market. T 956 462 458. Closed on Sundays. Punta de solomillo en salsa al Mesón La Vega picó (Pork tenderloin with Las Costureras way. L4. Ubrique. a mojo picó garlic sauce) T 956 466 625. In the new part A traditional spot Cervecería La Esperanza. 19 of Ubrique. Known for its acorn- Bar Las Cuatro Esquinas Santiago st. Ubrique. T 956 fed pork and lamb. Closed on 22 Higueral st. Ubrique. T 956 464 462 265. The gallo empanado Sundays. 988. Closed on Tuesdays. (battered John Dory) is also very popular. Very wide range of Venta El Boquete Something sweet tapas. Closed on Sundays. Llanos del Valle crossroad. San José del Valle. T 956 160 381. Panadería y Pastelería Los Nueve Venado in salsa (Venison Stew) Pork scratchings, acorn-fed pork, caños Restaurante Briston´s. 5 Fernando lengua en salsa (stewed tongue), 46 España av. Ubrique. T 956 Portillo st. Ubrique. T 600 389 venado (venison) and jabalí (wild 462 200. Brown bread, gañotes 015. Game. Closed on Sundays. boar). Closed on Mondays. (cinnamon pastries), traditional pastries and innovative desserts. Carne mechá (Pork Loin in Lard) Restaurante La Herradura Bar Infante. 50 Real st. Algar. 65 La Diputación av. Ubrique. Ana la de Consuelo T 956 710 028. Only served at T 956 468 074. Meats grilled 21 La Diputación av. Ubrique. T 615 weekends. The pork is served over embers. Closed on 692 924. between two slices of bread. Wednesdays.

67 The charm El Bosque, of highland products and

This triangle of the Sierra de Cádiz mountain ranges is an area of plenty. There are chacinas (cold cuts) and quesos (cheeses) from El Bosque, Pajarete wines from Prado del Rey and unusual sweets, such as cubilete (baked whipped butter and egg cakes) from Grazalema. The common denominator is the cordero (lamb) roasted in the ovens of the three towns.

cheeses). Pajarete wines. Foodie must-sees You can buy The Rivero family Make you own bread. cheeses winery is in Prado directly there del Rey. Salvador and attend a Rivero, the cheese-making oenologist, loves workshop. wine in all its forms. Payoyo chees Another leading He produces reds, whites, Sierra de Cádiz cheese- and also, although not maker is El Bosqueño in every year, a unique sweet El Bosque, which makes wine that is typical of a late cheese from the milk of the harvest. Merina de Grazalema ewes. Molino de Abajo Their cheese has been awarded many international The Molino de Abajo is prizes. You should ask for just outside the town of El queso de oveja al afrecho Bosque. This old watermill (cheese made out of milk has been refurbished and from bran-fed ewes). The turned into a museum Chacinas Olmedo factory and is home to an unusual outlet in the centre of El workshop where the Bosque sells top quality visitors learn to make meat and cold cuts. If you bread that they can then would like to try the cheese take home with them. The and cold cuts of El Bosque workshop is run for groups together, one good option of at least fi fteen people. is to ask for the platter at Phoning beforehand is the El Tabanco inn in the Pajarete wines recommended. town. Something sweet Truly special pestiños (honey- coated fried pastries). José Victor López left the Balearic Islands and came to Prado Quesos de oveja (ewe’s del Rey, where he opened his milk cheese) and carnes de Sandra bakery, hidden away cerdo ibérico (Iberian pork in the centre of the town, products). nearly twenty years ago. The Grazalema is home to the truth is that he sells real gems Las Hazuelas farm school, of mouth-watering cakes and run by Villaluenga cheese- sweets that you will fi nd hard makers, with their popular to resist. They sell some truly quesos payoyos (Payoyo special pestiños. chesse-making workshop 68 CUBILETE AMARGUILLO TORTA DE ACEITE

Real musts

3 dulces 3 (triple-sweet Cordero al horno (roast pastries). There are lamb). These three towns three mouth-watering in the Sierra de Cádiz TAPAS pastries that are typical of mountains are all known Grazalema: the cubilete, for their lamb. Many of the a dough made out of lard restaurants feature the local El solomillo a la pimienta and fl our and fl avoured lamb from the Merina de (tenderloin escalopes with cinnamon and fi lled Grazalema sheep. Roast in a pepper sauce) with candied pumpkin; cordero pascual (spring At the Agrupación the amarguillos, lamb), which has spent Cultural Vela y Mora almond some time grazing Las manitas de cookies, on the mountain cerdo guisadas and tortas grass to give (stewed pig’s trotters) de aciete, it its unique large fl avour, is the At Bar España round, fl at speciality at El El rabo de toro cakes made . The (oxtail) out of a recipe needs a At Bar Maestranza sweet dough. la little lard, a generous mb at ’s The Chacón Caico sprinkling of garlic and Las patatas en salsa and Narvaéz bakeries spices and a good eye con gambas are famous in the town. for roasting. The Mirador (prawn and potato stew) Francisco Javier Pérez, the del Tajo, which is also in At Bar Plaza chef at the El Olivar de la Grazalema, or Caico’s, Villa Turística de Grazalema which are experts in grilling, Las albóndigas restaurant, makes an in Prado del Rey, are worth (meatballs) unusual ice-cream out of visiting if you want to eat At Bar Zulema cubiletes. lamb.

SOLOMILLO

Olive grove from Villa Grazalema

PATATAS CON GAMBAS El Endrinal El Endrinal

ALBÓNDIGAS

More suggestions on page 70. 69 ALL ABOUT EL BOSQUE, GRAZALEMA AND PRADO DEL REY

Puremiel Honey From Spain Patatas fritas aliñadas (chips Breakfast Cuatro Vientos industrial area. 58 and sauce) Venta Julián ground fl oor. Prado del Rey. T 661 Bar Tertulia. 18 Agua st. 11 Diputación av. El Bosque. T 956 829 201. Organic honey. Closed Grazalema. T 615 956 064. Typical 716 006. Shopping selling local on Saturdays and Sundays. bar. Closed on Wednesdays. products. Country-style bread. Game or trout. Closed on Fridays. Granja Escuela Las Hazuelas Arcos-Ronda ronda. Km 50. Where to linger over a meal Grazalema. T 609 766 574. Casa Manolo Workshop 27 Teniente Peñalver st. Prado del where you Rey. T 956 724 506.Famous for its can learn to meat and stews. Exotic touches. make the local Closed on Tuesdays. cheeses. Caico´s 3 Doctor Martín Aguilar st. Prado Something sweet del Rey. T 956 723 161. Famous Panadería confi tería Chacón for its meat grilled over embers. Pequeña sq. Grazalema. T 956 Closed on Mondays. 132 265. Mesón rural Iptuci Confi tería Narváez 31 Teniente Peñalver st. Prado del Cafetería Rumores Asomadero sq. Grazalema. T 956 Rey. T 956 724 215. Lamb, acorn- 2 España sq. Grazalema. T 686 145 132 422. fed pork, goat and local produce, 339. Bread and different pastries some of which are organic. Closed served for breakfast. Pastelería Sandra on Mondays. 28 Teniente Peñalver st. Prado del Rey. T 956 724 190. Coffee shop Mesón El Almendral Foodies must-sees available. Closed on Mondays. El Bosque - Ubrique old road. Km Make your own bread 10. El Bosque. T 606 199 046. Molino de Abajo (next to bullring). Game. Open at lunchtime from El Bosque. T 658 845 761. Tapas October to May. All day the rest Solomillo a la pimienta (tenderloin of the year. Closed on Mondays. Cheese factory escalopes in a pepper sauce) 14 Huerto Blanquillo industrial Agrupación Cultural Vela y Mora. 11 Enrique Calvillo area. El Bosque. T 956 716 156. Teniente Peñalver st. Prado del Rey. 5 Diputación av. El Bosque. Goat’s and ewe’s cheese. Closed T 956 716 061. Truchas con on Saturday afternoons and Chocos fritos (fried squid) jamón (trout stuffed with ham), Sundays. Marisquería Bar Becerra. 2 Doctor cordero al horno (roast lamb) and Martín Aguilar st. Prado del Rey. revuelto de espárragos trigueros Chacinas Olmedo T 956 72 35 28. Fried fi sh and (scrambled eggs and wild 1 La Fuente st. El Bosque. T 956 seafood. Check opening times. asparagus) 716 004. Acorn-fed pork cold cuts and meats Closed on Mondays. Manitas de cerdo guisadas El Tabanco (stewed pig’s trotters) 3 Huelva st. El Bosque. T 956 716 Fabrica de Embutidos y Jamones Bar España. La Constitución sq. El 081. Cabrito lechal (suckling goat) Ana Bosque. T 653 754 211. Famous for and trout. 17 Rodríguez de la Fuente av. acorn-fed pork dishes. Closed on Grazalema. T 956 723 404. Cold Wednesdays. Mesón El Simancón cuts and sausages made on the Asomaderos sq. Grazalema. T premises. Closed on Saturday Crujiente de calabacin (Crispy 956 132 421. Lamb and acorn-fed afternoons and Sundays. Courgettes) pork. La Casa del Duende. 17 La Vega Carnicería Mercedes district. El Bosque. T 654 422 008. El Endrinal 19 Mateos Gago st. Grazalema. T Creative tapas. Check opening 3 Juan de la Rosa st. Grazalema. T 956 132 157. Meat, dripping and times. 637 781 871. Closed on Mondays. acorn-fed sausages. Founded in 1940. All the products from hogs Rabo de toro (oxtail) Restaurante El Olivar that graze in the Sierra de Cádiz Bar Maestranza. 5 Málaga av. Olivar property. T 956 132 136. mountains. Closed on Sunday El Bosque. T 956 716 888. Bull- Villa Turística de Grazalema. evenings in winter and all day fi ghting bar. Over 50 tapas and Orange salad, lamb chops, paté Sunday in summer. homemade stews. Closed on de perdiz (partridge pâté) and a Mondays. fi rst-rate selection of desserts. Carnicería García 4 Juan de la Rosa av. Albóndigas (meatballs) Restaurante Hotel La Garrocha Grazalema. T 956 132 000. Zulema. 44 Agua st. Grazalema. T Puerta de la Villa. 8 Pequeña sq. Sausages and cured meats. 956 132 402. Wide range of tapas. Grazalema. T 956 132 376. Cream Chorizo sausages, black of mushrooms, lamb and caramel pudding, sausages and pork Patatas en salsa con gambas custard. Closed in June. scratchings. (Prawn and potato stew) Bar restaurante Plaza. 5 España sq. Restaurante Mirador El Tajo Bodegas Rivero Grazalema. T 956 132 053. Patatas Juan de la Rosa sq. Grazalema. Prado del Rey - Arcos fritas con alioli (chips with garlic T 666 502 957. Game and own- road. Km 1. T 956 724 mayonnaise) and gambas fritas raised lamb. Magnifi cent views. 320. White and red wines (fried prawns). Closed on Mondays. Closed on Mondays.

70 , true highland Villaluenga cuisine del Rosario and

The landscape around these highland towns is the perfect backdrop to enjoy one of the local stews, such as the guisote gastoreo (Gastor hash). They are also an ideal spot to try the tasty cordero al horno (roast lamb), but the signature dish is cheese, the prize- winning queso de cabra payoya de Villaluenga (Villaluenga Payoya goat’s cheese).

Foodies must-sees A traditional spot Where to linger over a meal

The Ana Mari guesthouse In El Gastor, the La Posada is in Calle Mártires in the restaurant, run by María centre of Villaluenga. It Jesús Rubiales, is noted is a tiny establishment for its traditional dishes. where you will be During the season, it made to feel is typical to try the as if you are guisote gastoreño one of family. (Gastor hash), There, Ana but there is also Barragán the delicious and Ana cocido stew with Maria Franco, chickpeas, green mother beans, pumpkin and ste and daughter, wp potatoes that is eaten ot c make croquetas roquettes with a pringá, a mixture of del puchero (stewpot meat and sausages that are croquettes) and delicious added to the stew to add albóndigas (meatballs). fl avour.

The Payoya goat grazes on the mountains around Villaluenga. Two craftsmen from this tiny mountain village, Carlos Ríos and Andrés Piña, made it famous with this Payoyo cheeses, which have won more prizes than any other so far. There are different varieties, but the most famous ones are the cheese emborrado en manteca (wrapped in lard) or en manteca y romero (in lard and rosemary)

La Posada More suggestions on page 73. 71 ALL ABOUT BENAOCAZ, VILLALUENGA AND EL GASTOR

Mesón La Cancela Breakfast A traditional spot 24 Doctor Vázquez Gutiérrez Bar Restaurante Las Vegas Pensión Ana Mari st. Villaluenga. T 956 463 779. 1 Los Mártires st. Villaluenga. Papas con chorizo (potato and T 956 460 043. chorizo soup), tomato soup, chuletas de cordero (lamb chops) or pierna de cordero lechal (roast spring lamb). Closed on Tuesdays.

Tapas Patatas rellenas (stuffed potatoes) Bar Antonio. 2 La Alameda sq. Villaluenga. Home cooking. Tapas 5 Las Libertades sq. Benaocaz. T or meals served in the dining 956 125 502. Country-style bread room. Carrillada (pork’s cheek), with dripping or oil for breakfast. venison, local lamb. Closed from Wild boar and venison served Mondays to Thursdays for dinner. at lunchtime. Open for lunch. Closed on Mondays. Albóndigas en salsa (meatballs with gravy) Asociación Cultural Villaluenga Foodies must-sees del Rosario. 7 La Alameda sq. Chacinas Piñero Villaluenga. T 956 126 023. 15 San Blas st. Benaocaz. T 956 Traditional tapas. Carne de toro 125 640. Cured ham and pork (meat from fi ghting bulls), berza shoulders. Also chorizo and (meat and vegetable stew) and other cured sausages. Closed on ensaladilla (Russian salad). Saturdays and Sundays. Croquetas de Mesón La Velada Quesería de Villaluenga puchero (stewpot Los Arbolitos av. “Los payoyos” croquettes) Villaluenga. T 956 14 Ermita st. Villaluenga. T 956 Bar La Cancela. 126 001. Lamb, goat 463 759. Closed on Sunday 1 Huertos st. and local pork. evenings. El Gastor. Cheesecake made T 615 073 with products from Quesos Oliva 028. Tapas the local dairy. 1 Balmes st. Villaluenga. T 956 at weekends. Closed on Mondays. 463 467. Organic cheese made Langostinos out of raw ewe’s milk. Small craft con bechamel Restaurante Los production. (King prawns) and Barandales chipirones rellenos Ubrique-El Bosque Quesos La Velada (stuffed cuttlefi sh). road. Km 4. T 956 234 117. Los Arbolitos av. Villaluenga. Venison, boar, pork or veal. T 956 126 001. Made out Venado in salsa (Venison Stew) Only open for lunch. of Payoya goat’s milk and Bar Los Cazadores. 18 Las Grazalema ewe’s milk. Closed on palmeras st. El Gastor. T 605 031 Restaurante Hotel La Posada Mondays. 560. Game, secreto ibérico (neck Ntra. Sra. del Rosario st. of pork), mollete con carne de Villaluenga. T 956 126 119. Panadería Vicente cerdo picada y una salsa picante Ensalada de queso fresco José Pérez. Villaluenga st. No (bread roll with minced pork and payoyo (fresh Payoyo cheese set opening hours. You should a spicy sauce). 30 varieties of salad), sopa de ajo (garlic buy a loaf of its bread baked in a pulguitas, small bread rolls. soup), conejo con espárragos wood oven. (rabbit and asparagus) and local cheesecake. Where to linger over a meal Restaurante Nazarí Restaurante La Posada 12 Lavadero st. Benaocaz. T 956 49 La Fuente st. El Gastor. 125 598. Run by a Moroccan T 697 517 326. Also serves couple. Food from both sides of tapas. the Straits of Gibraltar. Local lamb, pork cheek, meat loaf or tahine. Mesón Los Cuñaos. 8 Rodríguez de la Fuente st. Restaurante El Parral El Gastor. T 956 123 950. Pork 1 Laderas de El Parral. Benaocaz. T tenderloins, wild boar, venison 956 125 565. Noted for its friendly and hearty soups. Guisote atmosphere and the innovative gastoreño (Gastor hash) or touches. tomato soup made to order.

72 Alcalá del showcasing Valle, Torre bread and Alháquime olive oil and

The residents of Torre Alháquime boast that they make magnifi cent molletes, the soft white bread rolls that are very popular in Andalusia. One of the best ways to eat them is toasted, with Setenil olive oil, a few Alcalá asparagus or a little manteca colorá (dripping coloured with paprika) from Torre Alháquime itself.

Breakfast Something sweet Real musts

Suspiros, cortadillos and Espárragos verdes hornazos. Suspiros are dry (green asparagus) and meringues that are baked masita de chorizo y at the Mari Pepa bakery salchichón (fried chorizo in Alcalá del Valle. Then at and salami sausage Easter, it is the time for the meat). In Alcalá del La Torreña drippings traditional hornazos, sweet Valle, the Sabor Andaluz Mollete rolls. Charcoal buns fi lled with hard- restaurant, run by José ovens are used to bake the boiled egg. In Setenil de Aguilera, is famous mollete rolls in Alcalá del las Bodegas, the delicious for its dishes featuring Valle and Torre Alháquime. cortadillos (pastry with green asparagus, And you can tell. You which is grown in the can buy them practically town and sought after everywhere in both towns throughout Europe. and the Hermanos Dorado The most popular dish or Valeriano bakeries are is the vinagreta de just two that make them. espárragos (asparagus The best way to enjoy them vinaigrette), even is to fi rst lightly toast the though it is prepared rolls, then try one of the suspiros at Mari Pepa in many different ways. outstanding La Torreña or In Setenil, you must Montes de Setenil drippings a pumpkin fi lling) from try the masita, which and the extra virgin olive the Durán patisserie are is uncured chorizo and oil from the El Agro another real must if you salami sausage meat cooperative have a sweet-tooth. produced by the Montes

El Agro olive oils Durán patisserie asparagus vinaigrette More suggestions on page 75. 73 DE TAPAS

two generations at Sabor Andaluz Las tortillitas de de Setenil cooperative. espárragos At Frasquito, and at (asparagus fritters) other bars in the town, At El Gordi the only thing they do is flash fry the masita and Los menudillos serve it on bread. It is (Giblets) as delicious as the cured At Bar Cebolla sausages sold by the cooperative. Los chipirones a la masita at Frasquito plancha con salsa ali oli (grilled cuttlefi sh with Where to linger over a meal garlic mayonnaise) At Pepín Perfectly paired cuisine. carefully chosen wine The dishes on the menu menu showcases local Los lomos de sardina con at the Café Bar Polear labels. The menu features pisto y queso fresco in Alcalá del Valle espárragos con (Sardines with ratatouille are changed daily jamón de york, and curd cheese) depending pimientos del At Zamudio on what is piquillo y available una salsa Las croquetas de bacalao at the de yogurt (cod croquettes) market. It (asparagus At La Tasca is strange with that the boiled restaurant’s piquillo peppers ham, Piquillo wine waiter peppers and and chef, Juan yoghurt sauce). Jesús Cruces, will Other addresses to first ask you which remember in Setenil wine you want to drink are the Restaurante with lunch or dinner and, Dominguez and El depending on that, will Mirador, both of which suggest a menu. His serve traditional fare. TORTILLITAS

Juan Jesús Cruces

CHIPIRONES

SARDINA

74 ALL ABOUT SETENIL, TORRE ALHÁQUIME AND ALCALÁ

They also serve berenjenas con Breakfast miel (honey aubergine fritters) or Mollete bread rolls with pork champiñones rellenos de queso zurrapa (dripping) de cabra (mushrooms stuffed Restaurante Alhaquin. 1 Nueva with goat’s cheese). Closed on st. Torre Alháquime. T 956 125 Mondays and Tuesdays. 090. At lunchtime: dishes such as fried eggs with chips, chorizo Croquetas de bacalao (cod sausages and peppers, made croquettes) used local pork products. Bar La Tasca. 71 Cuevas del Sol st. Setenil. T 956 134 024. Extensive tapas menu. Foodies must-sees Pimientos del piquillo (Piquillo Mollete rolls bread rolls the rest of the year. peppers) and fi letes empanados Panadería Valeriano. 4 Closed on Sundays. (breaded fi llets). Closed on Trascastillo st. Torre Alháquime. Mondays. T 956 125 106. Baked in a wood Suspiros (dry meringues) oven and kneaded by hand. Pastelería Mari Pepa. 5 Llana st. Closed on Sundays. Alcalá. T 956 135 139. Closed Real musts on Mondays. Asparagus Manteca colorá (paprika Mesón Sabor Andaluz. 3 La dripping) and chorizo sausages Cortadillos y quesitos Huerta st. Alcalá. T 956 135 510. Cooperativa La Torreña. El Tejar Confi tería Durán. Casa Nueva Closed on Tuesdays. st. Torre Alháquime. T 956 125 Industrial Area. P4. Setenil. 038. Chorizos herradura and T 956 134 082. La masita (fried chorizo and “ataos” sausages (horse-shoe Cortadillos are salami sausage meat) shaped and in strings) manteca pastries fi lled Bar Frasquito. 77 de colorá, chorizo en manteca with sweet las Cuevas del Sol st. (larded chorizo) and lomo en pumpkin Setenil. T 956 134 471. manteca (larded pork). Closed and quesitos Famous for its chorizo on Saturdays and Sundays. have a cream sausages and larded pork. fi lling. They are sold Closed on Tuesdays Salchichón casero (homemade at El Obrador and sausages) at several stores. Open in the Cooperativa Montes de Setenil. morning from Monday to Friday. Where to linger over a meal Casas Nuevas st. Setenil. T Café Bar Polear 956 134 483. Delicious cured 6 Virgen de los Remedios st. sausages, particularly the Tapas Alcalá. T 956 135 048. Closed chorizo de herradura and the Tortillitas de espárragos on Wednesdays. salchichón. Closed on Saturdays (asparagus fritters) and Sundays. Bar El Gordi. 21 El Bosque Restaurante Domínguez st. Alcalá. T 956 126 700. Asparagus when in season. They also serve prawn fritters. Closed on Mondays.

Menudillos (Giblets) Bar Cebolla. 42 Nueva st. Alcalá. Closed on Tuesdays.

Ensalada de pollo con frutas Plaza de Andalucía. Setenil. T (chicken salad with fruit) 956 134 331. Mountain platter: Café Bar Polear. 6 Virgen de los Larded pork, chorizo sausage, Remedios st. Alcalá del Valle. pepper, fried egg and chips.

Chipirones a la plancha con Restaurante Palmero salsa alioli (grilled cuttlefi sh 4 Andalucía sq. Setenil. T 956 with garlic mayonnaise) 134 026. Restaurante Bar Pepín. 14 Fuera Extra virgin olive oil del Arco st. Torre Alháquime. Restaurante El Mirador Cooperativa El Agro. Alambique T 956 125 101. Tapas or 10 Callejón st. Next to st. Setenil. T 956 134 364. Prize- portions served. Home cooking, Andalucía sq. Setenil. T 956 winning olive oil. The unfi ltered including fl amenquines rellenos 134 261. Acorn-fed meat and oil is recommended, but not (fried pork and ham rolls) or local dishes. Asparagus soup in available all year. Closed on croquettes. Mollete bread winter. Tasting menu. Closed on Saturdays and Sundays. rolls with tomato and oil for Mondays. breakfast.

Something sweet Lomos de sardina con pisto y Hornazos queso fresco (Sardines with Panadería Hermanos Dorado. C/ ratatouille and curd cheese) Pozo 13. Alcalá. T 956 135 181. Bar Zamudio. 1 Federico García These sweet buns are only made Lorca av. Setenil. T 956 134 035. at Easter. Delicious Mollete Unusual and complex tapas.

75 , Bread drizzled Zahara de with oil la Sierra and

Bread and oil are the essence of the Mediterranean culture. Delicious olive oils are produced in Olvera and in Zahara and Puerto Serrano is famed for its mollete rolls (soft white bread rolls). Telera bread (a fl at, crusty bread) is still handmade in Arroyomolino, just outside Zahara. It is perfect with cold cuts and the hearty soups and stews that abound locally.

serves Oleum Viride, an Breakfast Something sweet oil produced using the Organic olive oil Zahara olive press on the The Linero pitisús. and homemade Molino del Manzanillo Pitisú is not the right bread enjoyed estate. name, but that is overlooking the what everyone reservoir. The Foodies must-sees calls these petit magnificent choux. The Linero pitisús setting of Ambrosio, the last family- de Olvera bakery fi lls these the Hotel run winery. Olvera used small choux pastry balls, which Arco de to be home to many were originally from France, la Villa in small family-run wineries with its own pastry cream. that produced and sold The town’s typical pastry is the is an ideal spot wine. Only the Ambrosio torta de Cuasimodo, which for the perfect remains, in the Plaza del is made using a sweet breakfast: a lightly Matadero, which sells dough, made out toasted slice of its own white wines, of olive oil and then homemade Telera Oleum some of which are decorated with sugar Viride bread from the Arroyo organic, made using and almonds. You can Alto bakery, drizzled the local “perrunas” to buy it from the La Gloria rta with olive oil. The hotel grapes. de cuasimodo bakery all year round.

Hotel Arco de la Villa

Ambrosio wineries 76 Real musts

The buñuelos (deep fried pastries) at Venta Kiko. Teatime is a sign of a stress-free lifestyle. There are still places where afternoon tea is served in the Spanish style. One such place is Venta Kiko in Puerto Serrano. Every weekend, María Luna, the cook, makes buñuelos that she was taught to make by her mother-in-law. And the ideal fi nishing touch is when honey or chocolate is drizzled over them. TAPAS

El pastel de tortilla (Layered Spanish omelette) At Mi Pueblo La Pajarilla (Spleen) At Juanito Gómez El fl amenquín casero (homemade fried breaded ham rolls) At La Bodega Los calabacines rellenos buñuelos (stuffed courgettes) Where to linger over a meal pitisús At El Puerto Las chuletitas Both sides of the coin. de cerdo empanás There is something for (breaded pork chops) everyone here. If you prefer At Bar Pérez more traditional cuisine, the Platero de Olvera restaurant serves sopas pegás con espárragos (hearty asparagus soup) and manitas de cerdo (pig’s trotters) are on the menu at Mesón Lirios. For the more daring among you, the Via Verde Restaurant in the old Olvera station serves PASTEL carpaccio de langostinos (king prawn carpaccio) or confi t de pato (duck confi t). In Zahara de Squid at Al Lago CALABACIN la Sierra, the Al Lago restaurant is run by Stefan Crites, an American chef who left New York for the quiet way of life of the Cadiz mountains. He serves unusual dishes that are CHULETITAS a gastronomic fusion of different culture.

Stefan Crites More suggestions on page 78. 77 ALL ABOUT OLVERA, ZAHARA AND PUERTO SERRANO

(cup cakes). Breakfast A traditional spot Real musts Churros doughnuts. Bodega de Ambrosio Venta Kiko Bar Piscina. Manuel de Falla Matadero sq. Olvera. Grape Carril de Honorio. Puerto av. (swiming pool). Olvera. T mosto and home-produced wines. Serrano. T 956 127 144. 956 122 171. Delicious churros Unusual spot. Closed on Sunday doughnuts. evenings. Where to linger over a meal Puerto Serrano Mollete bread Bar Pepe Rayas Mesón Restaurante Lirios rolls. 9 Ayuntamiento sq. Olvera. T 956 52 Julián Besteiro av. Cafetería Happy Eyes. Andalucía 130 507. Unusual spot run by an Olvera. T. 956 13 03 75. sq. Puerto Serrano. T 956 462 English couple, serving typical Homemade cooking, including 981. Mollete bread rolls from local specialities. It is strange to an unusual octopus stew with the Panadería Paco bakery. read the menu featuring typical cubed fried potatoes. Tapas Tapas served at lunchtime. dishes but in English. Closed on are also served. Closed on Thursdays. Tuesdays. Slices of Telera bread Bar Nuevo. 13 San Juan st. Restaurante Platero Zahara. T 956 123 189. Horse Trekking Centre. Vía Verde Station way Olvera. T 619 831 680. They serve a Foodies must-sees typical local dish, the sopas Organic olive oil pegás, soups made using bread Coop. Los Remedios. Olvera. and asparagus. Also Moroccan Manuel de Falla av. Sells organic meat and dishes. Closed on and non-organic oils, cheeses Mondays. and cured sausages. Closed on Saturdays and Sundays. Tapas Restaurante Mi Pueblo Morcilla de hígado (liver black- Plaza de Andalucía 1. Olvera. T pudding) 956 131 105. La Serrana. Julián Besteiro av. Olvera. T 956 130 778. Very Pajarilla (Spleen) creamy and can be used as Taberna Juanito Gómez. 1 a spread as it has only been Bellavista st. Olvera. T 956 130 slightly cured. Also sells chorizo 160. An unusual tapa made out sausages and larded pork. of pig’s spleen stewed in wine. Closed on Saturdays and Carrillada (pig’s cheek) and a Sundays. list of over 50 tapas. Closed on Sundays. Extra virgin olive oil Restaurante Estación Verde Molino El Salado. 20 Flamenquín casero Former railway station. Olvera. Victoria st. Olvera. T (homemade fried T 661 463 207. Creative cuisine 956 130 816. breaded ham rolls) next to the Sierra de Cádiz Mesón Bar La Bodega. Greenway. Closed on Sunday Extra virgin olive oil 128 Julián Besteiro av. evenings and all day Monday. Almazara Las Pilas. 32 Olvera. T 956 131 085. Breaded Socorro st. Olvera. T 956 130 pork fi llet stuffed with ham, red Restaurante Al Lago 730. You can buy oil here and pepper and cheese. Meat cooked Félix Rguez. de la Fuente visit the mill. over the embers in a wood oven. st. Zahara. T 956 123 086. Closed on Mondays. They use organic products Organic extra virgin olive oil whenever possible. Closed Oleum Viride. Molino del Calabacines rellenos (stuffed on Wednesdays and Sunday Manzanillo. Road to Zahara from courgettes) evenings. A-382 main way. T 956 139 006. Bar Restaurante El Puerto. 2 You can visit the mill and taste Cordel st. Olvera. T 956 120 Los Estribos the oils on Fridays, Saturdays 532. Serves 6 different types 3 Fuerte st. T 956 123 145. and Sundays. of homemade croquettes and With views overlooking the over 40 tapas. Meals also served Zahara rock. in its restaurant. Closed on Something sweet Wednesdays. Restaurante Entre Olivos Torta de Cuasimodo (olive oil Leisure area (next to the and almond cake) Papas bravas (roasted potatoes Arroyomolinos artifi cial beach). Pastelería La Gloria. 123 with a spicy sauce) Zahara. T 690 793 083. Very Calvario st. Olvera. T 956 Cervecería Surtidor. 78 Julián pleasant setting. Free-range 120 743. Closed on Tuesday Besteiro st. Olvera. T 678 850 879. meat. Check opening times. afternoons. Closed on Wednesday evenings and all day Thursdays. Restaurante Los Tadeos Pitisús y caracolas de crema La Fuente av. Zahara. T (petit choux and cream horns) Chuletitas de cerdo empanás 956 123 086. Tomato and Pastelería Linero. 2 García (breaded pork chops) asparagus soups. Gazpacho, Lorca st. Olvera. T 956 130 Bar Pérez. 5 Patinete st. Zahara. T wild board and venison. 718. Traditional pastries, 956 123 209. Also serves larded Closed on Sunday evenings. meringues and magdalenas pork.

78 Land of Villamartín, surprises and

These three villages in the Sierra de Cádiz mountains are nearly in a straight line along the A-382 main road. And there, you will discover surprise after surprise: in Villamartin, chacinas (cold cuts) and traditional stews in Bornos, and olive oil in Algondonales.

Breakfast

Virgen del Rosario cooperative El Avión Starting the day in La Alameda. The street is called Avenida de Something sweet la Constitución, but Villamartin crème everyone knows it as patisserie. Even though La Alameda. There, you the typical pastry of will find bar after bar, Villamartín is the and one of the most rosco blanco enjoyable ways to start (doughnut- the day is to enjoy the shaped cake), olive oil from the Virgen which you del Rosario cooperative can buy drizzled over a toasted at Juan Mollete bread roll. Moreno’s Pajarete cheeses bakery, The famous morcilla you must Foodies must-sees (black-pudding) can not leave Morcilla (black-pudding) be bought from Foro’s without and cheese. butcher’s and El Avión trying supermarket at any time its crema of the year. The Pajarate pastelera (crème dairy is in Villamartín, patisserie). It is used just off the A-382 main to fi ll pitisús (petit choux), road, and it is a real must cuernos de hojaldre to visit to try the ewe (cream horns) or torpedos and goat milk cheeses (a soft sweet bun fi lled

m produced there. with crème patisserie). o rc illa

More suggestions on page 81. 79 ABAJAO BORNICHO !!!!!

Real musts Local delicacies made to although you will need to order. Bornos is home to order it in advance. Note the El Pengue inn down this telephone (or Avenida number if you wish inn), which is to try it: 956 712 the perfect 131. Baby spot to habichuelas try one of (kidney TAPAS the local beans) are stews. another dish El buche The “abajao from the past, (tripe) bornicho”, when they are in At Versalles a hearty bread season. Then you can soup which can choose whether to add El forraje include asparagus, almejas (clams), chorizo At Vicente Oca tomatoes or broad sausage or langostinos beans, is still made here, (king prawns). Las berenjenas fritas (fried aubergines) At El Canijo Where to linger over a meal El solomillo al whisky Two creative chiefs. Creative (Tenderloin in cuisine is still diffi cult to a whisky sauce) fi nd in the Sierra de Cádiz At El Patio mountains. However, there Espárragos envueltos are two in Villamartín en jamón where they producing (asparagus wrapped outstanding dishes: the in ham) Hacienda El Rosalejo, an At Hacienda El Rosalejo At Échate payá elegant tourist complex where its chef, Pablo l Anafe At E vicuña, produces surprising dishes featuring local ingredients; and El Anafe, where the chef, Rafael Gutiérrez Moreno, showcases the whole province in one dish: camarones (shrimps) from the coast with pimientos asados (roast peppers) and huevos rotos (scrambled eggs). And you should wash it down with a glass of local wine.

BEREJENAS

BUCHE

FORRAJE

Rafael Gutiérrez Pablo Vicuña 80 ALL ABOUT VILLAMARTÍN, BORNOS AND ALGODONALES

Breakfast Where to linger over a meal Venta Salas Jerez - Cartagena road. Km 78. Algodonales. T 956 137 010. Potaje de tagarninas (golden thistle stew).

Restaurante Sierra de Líjar 5 Ronda st. T 956 137 065. Algodonales. Grilled meat. Mollete bread rolls with Something sweet olive oil Mesón Casa Manolo Bars around the Almadea Confi tería Juan Moreno Atrio de la Iglesia. Algodonales. or along the Avenida de la 25 Bótica st. Villamartín. T 956 730 T 956 138 211. Constitución in Algodonales. 157. Apart from its roscos blancos There are various cafés in this (iced sponge cakes), this bakery Restaurante mesón Avenida area that are popular spots to is well known for its confectioner’s El Pengue have breakfast. People usually custard used to fi lled its petit- 7 San Jerónimo av. Bornos. opt for Mollete bread rolls with choux, cream horns or cream puffs. T 956 712 131. Closed on Algondonales olive oil. Open every day. Mondays

Confi tería Moreno Mesón Los Olivares y Luis 23 Cauchil av. Bornos. T 32 Feria av. 605 501 074. Villamartín. T 956 730 506. Restaurante Los Cazadores 2 Guadalete av. Villamartín. T 956 730 Foodies must-sees Tapas 916. Known for its game dishes Pajarete cheeses Buche (tripe) featuring partridge, rabbit or El Chaparral Industrial Area. L6. Bar Versailles venison. There is also an area A-382 main way (Algodonales 4 Severo Ochoa st. serving tapas. Closed for dinner exit). Villamartín. Payoya goat’s Algodonales. on Mondays. and Assaf ewe’s cheese. Also cured sausages, wine and canned Berenjenas fritas (fried Bar restaurante El Rincón de produce. Open mornings and aubergines) Jandra evenings every day. Only open Bar El Canijo 31 Los Malteses st. Villamartín. in the morning on Saturdays and 32 La Constitución av. T 956 T 956 733 587. Lenguado Sundays. 138 183. Algodonales. They are relleno de gambas y béchamel served in strips. Delicious with a (sole stuffed with prawns and Algodoliva olive oil little honey on top. Wide range béchamel) and barbecued meat. Manuel Pimentel av. Algodonales. of tapas. Closed on Tuesdays. Only open on Fridays, Saturdays Extra virgin olive oil. They also and Sundays. sell organic olive oil. Open from Solomillo al whisky (Tenderloin Monday to Saturday and only in a whisky sauce) Casa Julián a.m. on Saturdays. Bar El Patio 76 Arcos av. Villamartín. T 956 52 La Constitución av. T 956 138 730 895. Famous for its lamb. 011. Algodonales. Homemade tapas. Also patatas rellenas Restaurante El Anafe de atún con tomate (baked 1 Málaga st. Villamartín. T 956 potatoes stuffed with tuna and 733 464. Closed on Mondays tomato) and serranitos (Serrano except on bank holidays or the ham and grilled pork roll). evening before a public holiday. Closed on Wednesdays. Hacienda El Rosalejo El Cortijo Villamartín - Ubrique road Morcilla (black pudding) A-382 road. Km 78. (A-373). Km 6,6. T 616 490 924. Carnicería Foro. 2 Peña st. Algodonales. T 956 138 136. Closed on Mondays. Open for Bornos. T 956 712 033. Black lunch on the other days of the pudding, morcón de morcilla Forraje week. Also open for dinner on () and chorizo Bar Vicente Oca Fridays and Saturdays. sausages. All produced on 2 a Constitución Av. Bornos. the premises. Open a.m. and T 662 479 433. It is a salad p.m from Monday to Friday of lettuce, tomato and and only in the morning on peppers with tuna, olives and Saturdays. mayonnaise. Very popular. Open every day. Morcilla (black pudding) Supermercado El Avión. 21 Espárragos envueltos en jamón Calvario st. Bornos. T 956 712 (asparagus wrapped in ham) 585. Morcilla, chorizo and Bar Échate Payá chicharrones (pork scratchings) 9 Llana st. Villamartín. A popular made on the premises. Open spot in the town. Closed on from Monday to Friday. Wednesdays.

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and Olive oil and red wines

Espera is famous for its virgin olive oil. You can still buy it at the Molino de los Diezmos mill, a beautiful 18th-century building where you can see the machinery used to press the olives in the last century. Arcos has become the Mecca for the province’s red wines that have begun to make their mark and become a selling point for the region.

Breakfast

Breakfast from the heights The Arcos Parador is situated on the top of the Arcos rock face, at the highest point of the old quarter. The hotel terrace is an ideal spot to linger over breakfast and enjoy the breathtaking views over the surrounding countryside. The range of different types of bread and rolls are a perfect way to start the day. Arcos Parador

Foodies must-sees

The Casa de la Cilla. The second pleasure of life. It is known either The crispy and as the Casa de lightly-salted la Cilla or patatas fritas the Molino de El Cortijo

Molino de los Diezmos Molino de los del Olivar Diezmos (El Cortijo in Espera. del Olivar Its virgin crisps) are olive oil very popular continues locally. You to be sold at can buy them this old mill anywhere in and is perfect Arcos: you just to use to make the have to ask for “patatas local hearty stews. del cortijo” (Cortijo crisps).

82 Alcaraván wines Blanca Tierra Lucía y Viña

Wine, fried eggs and larded has appeared near to the pork. There are several town. This well-named TAPAS wineries in Arcos that company has recovered the produce good reds. One old Regantío Viejo wines, that is really making its mark another of the pioneers, and Secreto ibérico a la parrilla is the Huerta de Albalá, an is launching new products (Grilled Pork neck) ambitious project headed such as Fine Tempo, a At Rosario by Vicente Taberner, who signature wine that has been Pinchos de langostino has managed to position his extremely well-received by y bacon red wine among the best the critics. At the Regantío (King prawn and according to wine gurus. Viejo estate, you can enjoy bacon kebabs) But the pioneers were two the wines at weekends thanks At La Cárcel local companies: “Viña to an unusual idea that Pimientos verdes Lucía tinto” that continues marries them with a hearty rellenos de carne to be made at the Vicaría dish of chorizo sausage and (Green peppers estate where grapes are also lomo en manteca (larded stuffed with meat) grown for “Tierra Blanca”, pork), organic fried eggs and At El Alcaraván a white wine that is very a generous portion of chips. well-known in the province. You will need a lot of bread Solomillo en salsa de A new winery, the Compañía ”pa mojá” or to wipe the hongos General de Vinos de Cádiz, plate clean. (Pork tenderloin with a mushroom sauce) At El Zindicato Abajao de espárragos (Asparagus and tomato bake) At Círculo de la Unión

Huerta Albalá wine Fine Tempo wine Regantío wine

Something sweet SECRETO Real musts Rolls with a hole in The abajao. The abajao the middle. The Bollos (bread soup) is a traditional de Arcos are a type of dish in Arcos. The most rosquete () common version adds but made out of asparagus to the soup, PINCHOS a sweet dough. but El Patio María de las They are Aguas Orellana adds typically eaten local cured meats to at Easter, even the bread soup and though they produces a dish that ab aj are available all ao truly captures the Sierra year round. The de Cádiz region. You should Panifi cadora Arcense start the meal with a portion bakery makes rolls that of croquetas (croquettes) and are dusted with sugar ask which sort has been made and then decorated with that week as they change almonds. them constantly. Arcos rolls More suggestions on page 84. 83 ALL ABOUT ARCOS AND ESPERA

Breakfast Something sweet Where to linger over a meal Parador de Arcos Arcos sweet rolls Bar Frasquito Pl del Cabildo s/n. Arcos. T Panifi cadora Arcense. 8 Matrera 44 Los Toros st. Espera. T 956 956 700 500. Seasonal lunch Abajo st. Arcos. T 956 704 126. 720 379. Unusual scrambled and dinners featuring the Available all year round. Closed on eggs with aubergines, tomato international cuisine prepared Sundays. and olive oil from the Espera by José Miguel Pérez Salguero. mill. Closed on Monday Dining room with magnifi cent Pastries evenings. views. Monjas Mercedarias Restaurante El Lago convent. Arcos - Bornos road. Km 1. Foodies must-sees Boticas sq. T 956 701 117. Acorn-fed Red wines Arcos. T 956 cured ham, bacalao al horno Huerta de Albalá. Alberite - 700 470. Wide con pisto (baked cod with Arcos road (CA-6105). Km 4. T range of pastries that ratatouille) or roast suckling 647 746 048. Call beforehand to they sell through a revolving box. lamb. Closed on Sundays. book a visit. Mesón Don Fernando Red wines, tastings and Tapas 5 Botica sq. Arcos. T 956 717 lunches Secreto ibérico a la parrilla (grilled 326. Pork and meat grilled over Cía. General de Vinos de Cádiz. pork neck) embers. Closed on Mondays. Regantío Viejo property. Alberite Bar Cafetería Rosario. 9 La - Arcos road (CA-6105). Km 8. Constitución av. Espera. T 645 866 Casa Juan Bernal T 956 108 306. Apart from 490. Traditional cuisine, acorn-fed 11 Muñoz Vazquez st. Arcos. selling wines, the winery meat and fi sh. Closed on Mondays. Ham omelette and setas con organises tastings and salsa de almendras (mushrooms traditional meals using local Pinchos de langostino y beacon with almond sauce). Prize- products at weekends. Only (king prawn and bacon kebabs) winning unusual tapas. open for lunch. Call beforehand La Cárcel. 18 Dean de Espinosa st. Scrambled egg dishes. Closed to book. Arcos. T 956 700 410. Right in the on Mondays. heart of the old city. Garlic prawns White and red wines and acorn-fed meat. Closed on Mesón La Fonda Bodegas Páez Morilla. La Vicaría Mondays. 83 Corredera st. Arcos. T 956 property. San José del Valle old 705 118. Prize-winning tapas: road. Km 4. Arcos. Traditional Pimientos rellenos de carne carrillada de ternera con trufas al local wines, such as Tierra (peppers stuffed with meat) Oporto (veal cheek with truffl es Blanca and Viña Lucia. You can El Alcaraván. 110 Nueva st. Arcos. T in a port sauce) or the pastel also ask for it in the restaurants 956 703 397. Closed on Mondays. de verduras a la miel de fl or and shops of Arcos. de aguacate.(vegetable terrine Solomillo en salsa al hongos (Pork with avocado blossom honey). Virgin olive oil tenderloin with a mushroom Special tourist menu. Closed on Molino de los Diezmos. 25 sauce) Sundays. Veracruz st. Espera. T 956 720 El Zindicato. 2 Corredera st. Arcos. T 069. Closed on Saturdays and 956 701 841. Mejillones rellenos de Rest. Asador Mesa Jardín Sunday evenings. marisco (seafood-stuffed mussels) Arcos - El Bosque road. Km and caracoles (snails), when in 11,5. T 617 407 430. Veal, lamb season. Closed on Tuesdays and pork. Unusual roadside setting. Closed on Mondays. Abajao de espárragos (asparagus and tomato bake) La taberna de Boabdil Círculo de la Unión. 6 Botica st. 35 Los Boliches av. Next to the Arcos. T 956 703 107. Local cuisine. escalerita. Arcos. T 956 705 191. Garlic and tomato soup. Closed with Arabic on Tuesdays in summer. Closed on infl uences. They have a tasting Sundays. menu and a home-produced rosé wine: “El rosado de la abuela”. They serve tea in the Real musts afternoon. Mesón El Patio La Cabra Verde organic cheese 4 Callejón de las Monjas st. Arcos. T medallions in oil 956 702 302. Delicious croquettes La Alacena del Ángel. 7 Debajo made out of seasonal produce. del Corral st. Arcos. T 653 532 Closed on Wednesdays. 412. Store that sells Sierra de Cádiz products, such as La Cabra Verde, small cheeses with Meals with a view herbs made used the organic El Mesón de la Molinera milk from Payoya goats and 17 Sombrero de los Tres Picos av. preserved in local organic olive Arcos. T 956 708 002. Traditional oil. Named Spain’s best organic local cuisine. Views over the lake. cheese in 2008. Closed on Ox’s tail, rabbit stew and local free- Sundays in summer. range meat.

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