OCTOBER 2019 BAYAREA Am vit pre illorem The Palace accatur maio es aut One of the 14 hotel Hotel’s venia soluptasitem suites at the Battery. majestic as sumDandione Right: The Battery’s dolument eos sunt BAY AREA BAY Garden Court. colorful Musto Bar. utes aut ea dolore

the bustling hotel marries opulence and (room 14) being the one to aim for. There’s whimsy, with a dash of Art Deco swag- also a 6,000-square-foot penthouse with ger. It’s also the only place where all a wraparound terrace outfitted with an three of the city’s cable-car lines meet. infinity hot tub and a Viking grill. Rooms Book a room in the Tower, which has from $1,195; thebatterysf.com. the best views and five premier suites, offers curated flights inside a new lounge including one named for Tony Bennett, PALACE HOTEL stocked with coffee-table books on wine. who first performed “I Left My Heart There have been two Palace Hotels— Rooms from $750; ritzcarlton.com. in ” in this hotel. Rooms both in the same spot. The first, opened from $260; fairmont.com. in 1875, was then the largest hotel in the

CALIFORNIA ST. REGIS world. After the 1906 earthquake, the Pal- With its long, strikingly modern fire- THE BATTERY ace rose again, entirely rebuilt. In 2015, Staying Power A guide to place, zebrawood bar, and massive murals Both a private club and boutique hotel, the property underwent a multimillion- San Francisco’s top hotels, from bustling remote workspace. The gym is, by Andrew Morrow, the lobby of the the Battery opened six years ago in the dollar renovation, including an update with little doubt, the nicest Equinox in St. Regis sets a refined, distinctly artful hip Jackson Square neighborhood, occu- of all 552 rooms. (The suites are laid out old favorites to new classics. town—and all three floors of it are open tone. Situated inside a downtown sky- pying a brick-and-timber warehouse that like apartments, including—in the case to hotel guests. Though the hotel sits on scraper that’s also home to the Museum was once a candy factory. Designed in of the Presidential and Vice Presiden- by Jason Sheeler. Photographs by Soraya Matos one of Market Street’s busiest stretches, of the African Diaspora and is next door spirited style by Ken Fulk, the 14 hotel tial categories—dining rooms.) Located there is a private back entrance for guests, to the San Francisco Museum of Mod- suites come with temporary club mem- in the Financial District, the hotel is close CAVALLO POINT an intimate Edwardian building that could and the rooms are nearly soundproof. At ern Art (SFMOMA), the hotel embodies both berships, allowing guests to enjoy the to Union Square shopping, Mission Street Occupying the former Fort Baker army easily be mistaken for luxury apartments 460 square feet, the standard rooms are St. Regis’s signature luxury and San Fran- garden, library, spa, gym, 24-seat wine eating, Embarcadero sightseeing, and barracks in Marin County, at the foot of the (it once was) or one of the consulates that some of the biggest you’ll find in the city, cisco’s creativity and openness to exper- cellar, bars, Living Room restaurant, and SFMOMA museum-going. Not to miss: Max- Bridge, Cavallo Point is a rare dot the neighborhood. The property, built while many of the suites are upwards of imentation. Among the 260 rooms is a meeting spaces where Bay Area CEOs field Parrish’s Pied Piper mural, which Bay Area hotel with uninterrupted views of in 1903 and completely renovated in 2017, 1,000 square feet, and the Premier suites 3,200-square-foot suite with spectacu- and creatives gather for lectures and lap- decorates the hotel bar of the same name San Francisco’s skyline. Opened in 2008, offers 32 rooms and 16 suites (book one come with a dedicated personal assistant. lar views of the Bay Bridge. When bold- topping. Rooms are highly sought-after, and is considered a San Francisco land- the sprawling resort offers two types of on the fourth floor, the north side), com- Rooms from $395; fourseasons.com. face names are in town, this is where they with the 620-square-foot Balcony suite mark. Rooms from $590; sfpalace.com. accommodations: historic and quaint— plimentary bikes for a roll down the hill to tend to come, attracted by the butler ser- think 1901 officers’ quarters with porches the Marina or the , and an apiary RITZ-CARLTON vice and the property’s 9,000-square-foot and rocking chairs—or modern and sleek. on the roof for honey with afternoon tea. Of all the neoclassical, columned hotels spa with a saltwater pool overlooking the The latter are incongruous but harmonious: There are also evening wine tastings, fea- in San Francisco, the Ritz-Carlton in Nob SoMa neighborhood. Rooms from $950; floor-to-ceiling windows, heated floors, turing bottles from Napa and Sonoma and Hill stands out. The particularly elegant st-regis.marriott.com. flat-screen TVs, khaki-painted walls. Go cheeses from the Cypress Grove creamery white marble façade helps. Renovated in DEPARTURES for a second-floor king suite, with a dou- in Humboldt County. Rooms from $399; 2015, the 336-room property offers Ritz- FAIRMONT ble-sided fireplace and a deck overlook- hoteldrisco.com. standard opulence (Frette linens, Veuve Dorothy Draper’s vision of a majes- ing the bay. A historic option for families is Clicquot in the minibar) while also being tic Venetian palace, the beloved Fair- FOUR SEASONS

DEPARTURES the Frank House, a 1,200-square-foot resi- a reliable, large, city hotel. (Room 919 has mont survived the 1906 earthquake and dence with two bedrooms, a gas fireplace, A modern alternative to the city’s grand, the best view of Alcatraz, the bay, and Coit the 1980s TV series Hotel, starring James and a glass-enclosed sunporch. Rooms historic hotels, the Four Seasons is a Tower.) It’s also on the edge of Chinatown, Brolin. Perched at the top of Nob Hill, from $470; cavallopoint.com. whisper-quiet chunk of swank right on which has some of the best dining in the the Fairmont earns its grande dame sta- Market Street. The property, in washes of city—book way ahead for George Chen’s tus. From the tiki bar, com- The Cavallo Point resort looks out at HOTEL DRISCO beige, gray, cream, and cornflower, occu- 8 Tables (chinalivesf.com). You can also plete with thunder and lightning effects the and the San

High up on one of the steep hills in tony pies 12 floors of a 42-story high-rise. The schedule a wine tasting at JCB by Jean- (order a Scorpion Bowl), to the palm 83 Francisco skyline

82 Pacific Heights, the Hotel Drisco occupies lobby functions as a living room, bar, and Charles Boisset. The famed winemaker trees on the rooftop (order up lunch), across the bay.