Tomb Raider Chronicles Looting Reaches Across the Centuries—And Modern China's Economic Strata

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Tomb Raider Chronicles Looting Reaches Across the Centuries—And Modern China's Economic Strata Tomb Raider Chronicles Looting reaches across the centuries—and modern China's economic strata by LAUREN HILGERS hat tree, right there. Do you before, had been broken into and loot- chase them, most are former farmers see that tree?" A portly offi- ed. It was what I had come to Henan and peasants. They operate in gangs Tcer from the Henan Public to see, evidence of Ghina's tomb raid- that teach new recruits how to find Security Bureau stood in the cracked ers, criminals who loot ancient graves and excavate tombs, grabbing only mud of an irrigation ditch and pointed to feed the antiquities market. the most desirable artifacts. What at a single, leafless tree in the middle According to some estimates, they take moves through the hands of a fleld of millet. "If you look to there are around 100,000 looters in of middlemen to collectors and auc- the right, just past the tree, the hole China. Experts guess that more than tion houses in China and around is there." I looked in the direction 400,000 ancient graves have been the world. What they leave behind he was pointing and told him what I robbed in the last 20 years alone. is a source of endless frustration to saw: more millet. The officer laughed. Tomb raiders work underground—^lit~ archaeologists: damaged, incomplete "Exactly! That's how they trick you!" erally and figuratively—and tend to sites that reveal only a fragmented He was referring to a pile of fresh hang out in the middle of nowhere, in picture of the past. dirt next to the tree, the only above- places that were once on the periph- Every archaeologist I met in my ground sign of an 1,800-yearold Wei ery of great cities and rich trade three years of writing about archaeol- Dynasty tomb that, only two nights routes. According to the officers who ogy in China was familiar with the www.archaeology.org 55 with distress, "I've lost my phone!" In China, cell phone contact lists are precious. "There were so many people in that phone," Liu lamented. Worried that his contacts were lost forever, he drove us out of the city in uncomfortable silence. Liu shook his head and muttered "Shenqi," or "angry," under his breath, but didn't say a word about our destination. hina has a 4,000-year history of building tombs, which were Cthought to serve as bridges from this world to the next. Build- ing styles have ranged from large pits to pyramids to cross-shaped burial chambers. They were made of brick, packed earth, or stone, and were sometimes capped with ceramic roof tiles. They could vary in size from a few square yards to nearly a square mue. Early on, people filled tombs with bronze vessels and disks and cyl- inders made of jade, but by the East- ern Han Dynasty (A.D. 25-220), buri- al practices had expanded to include small replicas of daily life—little buildings, chariots, and ceramic ser vants. "The objects should resemble those used in real life but be smaller," an A.D. 1170 book on burial rituals explained. 'According to the law, those with rank five or six offices can Tomb raiders had bored a tunnel into a large tomb associated with Cao Cao, a Han have thirty objects; those with rank Dynasty general and warlord, before it was discovered and excavated by archaeoiogists. seven or eight offices, twenty objects; and those who have not reached work of looters. One told me the a small village there and has spent his court posts, fifteen objects." tomb he was excavating had been ufe amassing information about burial Tombs were no sooner built than raided multiple times—once a few practices, artifacts, and the capital people started thinking about looting hundred years ago, again in the 1970s, cities of various dynasties. When I them. Researchers in Xi'an believe and finally just months before. At told Liu, who asked that I not use his that even the grave of China's first an underwater site near Guangzhou, real name, that I wanted to get a bet- emperor, Qin Shihuangdi, reported local authorities were constantly ter understanding of China's looters, to contain a scale model of his entire chasing off free-diving thieves who he agreed to help. He had run into, kingdom (and which abuts the famed tried to sneak by in the middle of the and even interviewed, a few during terracotta army), was robbed soon night. Tomb raiders are, by nature, his career, he said, and would do his after his death in 210 B.C. Chinese hard to find. In general, archaeolo- best to take me to meet some. archaeologists estimate that, between gists don't like to talk about them I flew to Zhengzhou, Henan's ancient and modern looters, nine out because the scale of the problem largest city, to meet Liu on a snowy of 10 tombs have been plundered. makes it seem as if China is losing Sunday morning. We planned to drive If tombs are bridges between the control of its history to a small coxmtry town where tomb living and the dead, raiders are intrud- On a previous trip to Henan, I was raiders were known to be camping ing on some spiritually fraught terri- lucky enough to meet an expert in out. Liu pulled up in his car, rolled tory According to Chinese mythol- local tombs, Mr. Liu, who grew up in down the window, and shouted ogy the souls of the dead can linger, 56 ARCHAEOLOGY • July/August 2013 particularly if the deceased suffered is valuable and trampling the rest. brazen as they once were. In a famous an injustice. In such cases, the spirits "Details that a looter doesn't care case from 1997, reports estimated are trapped on earth, in dark, dank about and destroys would otherwise that more than 1,000 people were places, like tombs, and can enter the have helped us better understand a looting the ancient tombs built dur bodies of living people. "We grow up site." Evidence of construction tech- ing the Tuyuhun Kingdom (A.D. 417- with these stories about bad things niques, the placement of objects in a 688) in China's Qinghai Province. that happen in tombs," said Nanpai tomb, and their potential significance One archaeologist reported that as Sanshu, author of a popular book can be lost. Despite this, Liu and his he excavated one side of a burial site, series. The Tomb Raider Chronicles. friend were surprisingly sympathetic looters worked on the other. Looters "They fascinate us." to the raiders. "People here grow mil- today are just as determined, but per The main character of the series let and corn and sometimes green haps not quite so bold or foolish. is a reluctant looter, but he has no beans," Liu said. "There's really no Just before my arrival in Henan, choice—it runs in the fanuly. "Tomb way to make much money" a story had broken about a tomb- raiding used to be a family business," Back in the car, Liu announced raiding ring in Hubei, another prov- Liu said. "If your father is teaching that he was accustomed to taking ince rich in both tombs and looters. you how to find a tomb and how best a nap at this time of day He was Local farmers had reported finding to dig, he is going to teach you the exhausted after worrying about his holes surrounded by cigarette butts safest way to do it. There were fewer phone all night. Near a toUgate, Liu and litter. Investigators arrived and disputes." Today, Liu continued, the relationships have changed. Tomb raiders are friends or acquaintances, or strangers brought together by larger criminal networks. And accord- ing to Liu, this can cause conflicts. He's seen more than one operation fail when a disgruntled raider ratted out his compatriots. "Maybe some- one thinks they aren't getting paid enough," Liu said. "Maybe they think things aren't fair" iu had arranged for us to stop for lunch at an archaeological Lsite on the way to the village. An archaeologist friend of his was Looters use metal rods to look for buried tombs, leaving teiltale holes like these. If a working on the remains of a Shang rod punched into the ground encounters resistance, it couid mean a tomb is below. Dynasty port that once sat on the Yellow River. At the excavation, a pulled halfway off the road, recHned were able to arrest a group of what team of 20 local farmers had cleared his seat, and started snoring quietly. some Chinese media outlets charac- a pit about 15 feet deep and 30 feet Though it is a centuries-old prac- terized as "suspicious people from square. They continued to attack the tice, the methods of tomb raiding have Shandong." The arrested looters cold ground with shovels and brushes changed dramatically over the past claimed that the artifacts they took as we walked through the site. Some 30 years, as the market for Chinese had already been sold to a man called of the women stood in the mud wear artifacts has exploded. Raiders have "Little Fatty" for 4 million yuan— ing heeled dress shoes and others been caught with walkie-talkies, oxy- around $643,000. gripped shovels with gloveless hands. gen tanks, lights, and chainsaws. Since Investigation into the mysteri- Their pay, according to the archaeolo- the 1990s, China's security forces have ous Little Fatty led to a man named gist, was low but adequate for rural stepped up their efforts, instituting Zhang Moumou.
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