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Museums and Points of Interest other useful features, at firenzeturismo.it (click the British flag for A CITY OF THE WORLD English). For restaurant recommendations, THE FOOD LOVER’S GUIDE TO FLORENCE: WITH CULINARY EXCURSIONS IN TUSCANY by Emily Wise Miller is a wonderful resource for mapping a foodie itinerary through Florence; it is available in the Borgo library and the author maintains a blog. Then there’s the paperback Pappa E CICCIA, A GUIDE TO FINE DINING IN AND AROUND FLORENCE, a superb place to look for an insider’s take on the Florentine dining scene, with English translations by the Borgo’s own Rachel Mascetta. It is available in the Borgo library, or you can look for more recent guides a block from the Duomo at the PAPERBACK EXCHANGE (VIA DELLE OCHE 4R, 055293460). This new and used English bookstore is an excellent stop for anyone with curiosity of the Italian variety or for someone looking for a new read. FELTRINELLI INTERNATIONAL on Via Cavour also stocks a large selection of English books. The Baptistry, Duomo and Campanile of Museums and Points of Interest Santa Maria del Fiore A note on reservations: Reservations allow you to bypass the regular Rich in history, art, architecture, music, and cuisine, Florence is a line and obtain tickets to Florentine museums and monuments from veritable “best of” in the development of western culture. Thanks a specially designated window at a particular point in time. They to a compact center, this capital city of 400,000 inhabitants and are not necessary for most sites, but are highly recommended for birthplace of the Renaissance, with hundreds of notable sights and the ACCADEMIA and all but necessary at the UffIZI. Please notify museums, still remains a manageable and quite walkable city. our staff as soon as possible if you would like assistance. There is certainly no lack of literature on Florence, so what follows From the US: 011 - 39 - 055 - 294 - 883 is a skeleton that can be expanded in myriad ways depending on the previous experience and goals of a traveler or group. For more From Italy: 055 294 883 elaborated information, see the library for our collection of Florence travel guides. firenzemusei.it For online research, Florence’s tourist office (APT) has a frequently updated site with the latest in events and shows, among tons of The cost is €3 per reservation, but it isn’t charged until you pay for - 108 - - 109 - your tickets. Therefore, if the stars align and there is no line, you Florence’s Gothic cathedral, SANTA MARIA DEL FIORE, is best can forego your reservation in favor of waiting in the regular line known as the Duomo (PIAZZA DEL DUomo, 0552302885, SUN: 1:30 and save the fee for the gift shop. P.M.—4:45 P.M., MON.—FR.I: 10 A.M.—5 P.M., SAT.: 10 A.M.—4:45 P.M., somE moNTHS IT CLosES UP TO AN HOUR AND A HALF EARLIER ON THURSDAY). The (PIAZZA MADONNA DEGLI ALDOBRANDINI 6, CAppELLE MEDICEE The building itself was designed by ARNOLFO DI CAMBIO, but 0552388602, opEN: MON.—SUN.: 8:15 A.M.—5 P.M.) is an opportunity to its crossing remained uncovered for one hundred years until glimpse the private lives of the powerful Medicis from their personal BRUNELLESCHI’s competition-winning design solved the problem chapel and mausoleum. Michelangelo created the allegorical Day, of how to cover such a large, open space in 1436. Most of the Night, Dawn, and Dusk figures. The chapel is an adjunct of the artwork was removed to the museum next door, but VASARI’s greater church, the (PIAZZA S. LORENZO, BASILICA DI SAN LORENZO impressive dome fresco survives in its original state. GIOTTO’s bell 0552645184, MON.-FRI.: 1:30 P.M.—5:30 P.M., ALso ON SUNDAY FRom tower stands beside the cathedral and his baptistry with the famous MARCH TO OCTOBER). GHIBERTI DOORS is across the piazza. Walk in the steps of the Medici to the PALAZZO MEDICI RICCARDI, which may rank as Florence’s best lesser-known artistic treasure (VIA CA voUR 3, 0552760340, THURS.—TUES.: 9 A.M.—7 P.M.). Michelozzo’s Renaissance palace, the first building in that style in Florence, received a Baroque face-lift in 1659 when the Riccardi family took over. Benozzo Gozzoli’s 1459 frescoes in the CHAPEL OF THE MAGI should not be missed! Only eight visitors are allowed at a time, so ask our staff about calling ahead. Otherwise, the groups move relatively quickly and the art, definitely worth the wait. The ACCADEMIA (VIA RICAsoLI 60, 0552388609, TUES.—SUN.: 8:15 A.M.—6:50 P.M.), pronounced with emphasis on the “de,” is Florence’s second best-known museum after the Uffizi, one for which reservations are highly recommended. The museum began as Grand Duke Leopold’s drawing school teaching collection and includes a large selection of medieval religious works. The majority of visitors go to see Michelangelo’s David, however, a monumental work that truly cannot be over-exaggerated. Be sure not to miss Detail of Ghiberti’s bronze Baptistry doors. the sculptor’s unfinished Slaves, tense figures who seem to be attempting escape from their stone prisons as one looks on. Lacking One can climb the bell tower’s 414 steps, but for the best climb, one the smooth patina of a finished work, the skin of the physical, active should summit Brunelleschi’s dome. The (opEN: SAME AS figures truly seems to breathe. See our staff as far in advance as CupOLA THE CATHEDRAL BUT CLosED SUNDAY) is accessible from the side of the possible to inquire about reservations. Duomo, from which one climbs 464 steps in between the two shells of the dome, to its top with a 348 foot view of the city, its highest. - 110 - - 111 - This climb is an excellent intersection in art and architectural history, Just north of Santa Croce, one can visit the very home where physics, and culture, and a good way to add some physical activity to the day. Alternatively, the less-visited bell tower is advisable for anyone to whom avoiding waiting in line takes precedence over the structural and historical interest of the cupola. The view is equally stupendous. Across the PIAZZA DEL DUOMO (NO.9) stands the MUSEO DELL’OPERA DEL DUOMO (0577286300, 10:30 A.M.—7:30 P.M. SUNDAY AND HOLIDAYS 1:30 P.M.—6 P.M.), housing the works originally intended for the Cathedral and various other religious works from the city. The collection includes Arnolfo di Cambio’s original works for the façade, PISANO’s pieces for the bell tower, as well as works by DELLA ROBBIA and DONATELLO, with models and drawings of the Cathedral itself. Two blocks south of the Duomo, but much further off the beaten The Basilica of Santa Croce track, is Dante’s house, CASA DI DANTE (VIA SANTA MARGHERITA 1, 055219416, opEN DAILY: 10 A.M.—6 P.M. IN SUmmER, 10 A.M.—5 P.M. OCT.— MAR.), a must for the literary pilgrim. Michelangelo was raised, the CASA BUONARROTI (VIA GHIBELLINA 70, 055241752, opEN: WED.—MON.: 10 A.M.—5 P.M.). The BASILICA DI SANTA CROCE (PIAZZA SANTA CROCE, 0552466105, SUN.: 1—5:30 P.M., WEEKDAYS: 9:30 A.M.—5:30 P.M.), is Florence’s If you find yourself in Florence, looking to see the greats but Franciscan monastery and a particularly special spot in a city full of without reservations, all is not lost. The NATIONAL MUSEUM monuments. Designed by Arnolfo di Cambio in the 1290s, it took OF THE BARGELLO (VIA DEL PROCONsoLO 4, 0552388606, TUES.— one hundred fifty years to complete. SAT.: 8:15 A.M.—1:50P.M., opEN 3RD AND 5TH MONDAY AND 2ND AND 4TH SUNDAY of EVERY moNTH), is to sculpture what the Uffizi is to The resultant Gothic basilica is a prominent, sober space, packed painting, offering a chance to see all of the Renaissance greats in with artistic greats. Giotto and his pupils frescoed the walls, which one location with minimal waiting. The collection also includes alternate with tombs of Italian artists, thinkers, and aristocrats, works by Michelangelo, Rossellino, the Sansovinos, della Robbia, whose names and numbers will astound. Vasari himself designed the and Donatello, including his David. Particularly interesting are . Others include , TOMB OF MICHELANGELO GALILEO GALILEI the submissions presented by Ghiberti and Brunelleschi in the Leon Battista Alberti, and Gioachino Rossini. The PAZZI CHAPEL competition to design the doors of Florence Cathedral’s baptistry is Brunelleschi’s perfectly proportioned meeting room for the in 1401. The building itself is one of the city’s oldest, dating to 1255 monks, a true ode to Renaissance human scale and harmony. The and taking its name from the chief of police, for whom it was a base monastery also houses a , with premium handmade LEATHER SCHOOL in the 16th century before it became a prison. leather goods on sale daily. - 112 - - 113 - The GALLERIA DEGLI UffIZI (PIAZZALE DEGLI UffIZI, 055294883, TUES.—SUN.: 8:15 A.M.—6:35 P.M.) is the first and last word on the Renaissance, housing such great pieces as Botticelli’s Birth of Venus and Primavera among works by Cimabue, Giotto, Duccio, Signorelli, Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, and Caravaggio. Housed in a Vasari-designed, COSIMO DE MEDICI-commissioned building between the Piazza della Signoria and the Arno, this is many a traveler’s first visit in Florence. Crowds gather long before the gallery opens every morning, so it is highly advisable to make reservations in advance for a €3 addition to the usual admission.
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