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1956 EC56-411 for your Clothes Gerda Petersen

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Petersen, Gerda, "EC56-411 Color for your Clothes" (1956). Historical Materials from University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension. 3309. http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/extensionhist/3309

This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Extension at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Historical Materials from University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. /lG,f.I s E.C. 56-411 85 F/ ~sto-11/ c_, I for your

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UNIVERSITY OF N~~~~~~ION SERVICE AND U.S. DEP~TM~N~~~E~6R?luAGRICULTURE W V OOPERATING LTURE . . LAMBERT, DIRECTOR Coller For Your Clothes

Gerda Petersen

Color speaks more loudly than Coloring Of The Individual words. According to psychologists, we remember we see better than words we hear. Color can be When you are choosing becoming the most important factor in dress colors consider, first, the coloring because it attracts or repels before in your skin, and eyes. Remove cut, line or fabric are noticed. all cosmetics and study your coloring in a mirror. Think of the . Where do you place yourself on the color wheel? Is your coloring One mark of the woman of taste warm or cool? The following para­ and personal distinction is the colors graphs may help you decide: she chooses and wears.

Skin Coloring People go through different stages of color appreciation. A little girl soon shows preference for certain The colors usually found in va­ dresses. Usuapy these are of bright rious skins are neutralized tints or colors. As sp.e grows and matures shades of , - -orange, her interest, ability and environment -orange, orange·-yellow, yellow, will affect her development of color orange-red and red-. taste.

The problem of every woman is to choose colors that will flatter as much as possible, that will play tUp her best features and minimize the less attractive ones, that will give her spirits a lift, and that will create pleasure and harmony for others.

The selection of colors depends on several factors:

1. The individual a. Her coloring b. Her age c. Her size d. Her personality As you look at the skins of various 2. The kind of under which people you will notice that some are it will be worn. dark and some are light, others are 3. The texture of the fabric. vivid or pale. Some have more red 4. The occasion for which the in their complexions while others color is chosen. have more yellow. -4-

All skin colors are warm but call a florid skin, which presents some are warmed or cooler than difficulties in s e 1 e c tin P' hecoming others. The overtones (colors found colors" in cheeks, lips and eye shadows) help to classify skins as warm or cool. Hair coloring may also be classed Grace Margaret Morton, in her as warm or cool. book "The Arts of Costume and Per­ sonal Appearance", gives the follow­ ing information on skin color:

"Those, whose skins tend to be very light and cool, are called fair to distinguish them from dark or'creamy or skins. A fair skin has a basis of orange-yellow; in the cheeks and lips are overtones ofred- or violet-red; and there are also shadows which occur about the nose and under the eyes. It is the blue and red-violet overtones which give fair skin its coolness and determine to a great extent the hu~s of rouge and lipstick usually mo.st effective.

"The . skin tones of the warm Blwe- hair and gray hair types have either a creamy or an are considered cool. ivory cast, ranging from very dark, rich, and swarthy, to light creamy or ivory tones. Creamy skin has Blondes are placed in the yellow­ more orange than .yellow. and its orange to yellow area. If the yellow overtones are red-orange. It is the color is so neutralized with skin of a vivid brunette like Jane that it almost has a grayish cast we Russell. The red-orange overtones sayit is a cool coloring. This group­ set the pace for rouge ancl lipstick. ing includes the light and dark blonde Then there are the skins which are (ash). basically of a yellow tone, like ivory. They usually have no color in the When the yellow-orange is less cheeks but very red or red-purple neutralized we have a golden blonde. lips and their overtones are greenish. Her hair color is warmer than the ash This type of skin ranges from blonde. Light red, sometimes termed very light value, as in the pale ivory "light carrot" in common terminology skin of Deborah Kerr, to the dark, combines blonde and red character­ skins of women of Latin races. istics, and is a very warm color. Medium red to contain "The skin tones of auburn·haired more red and are a darker shade. types are yellow-orange,ranging hair may vary from yellow­ from light creamy tones to darker, orange to red-orange, which is great­ richer ones. The overtones are ly neutralized, and is found in both usually red-orange. Purple-red light and dark shades. ·is overtones in this type give what we usually considered warm. -5-

E ye Coloring Effect of Colors on Skin, Hair, Eyes

Eyes are generally various values Since the head and face of the of blue, blue-, green, blue­ individual should be the center of purple or brown (a dark neutralized interest, it becomes necessary to shade of y ellow, orange, or red­ study the way colors affect the ap­ orange). pearance of skin, hair and eyes.

Colors should be chosen first, to enhance the skin because the appear­ a nee of a glowing healthful skin is most necessary to a pleasing attrac­ tive appearance.

While experimenting with the effects of color on the skin we find:

1. Intense colors reflect on the skin; some in a becoming way, others unpleasantly. Intense blue and pur­ ple increases pallor, while red (if not too harsh) reflects a rosy glow Gray, blue, green and blue-violet which makes it becoming to a pale in­ eyes are consider ed cool. Brown eyes dividual.Brilliant and yellow­ are warm. Hazel eyes (eyes where reflect yellow on the skin, blue or greep and brown are com­ which increases the appearance of bined) may t>:e either warm or cool, sallowness. depending on the a mount of blue or green in relation to the amount of 2. Brilliant induce the ap­ brown. pearance of their complement on the skin. Bright green will make a florid (red) skin seem redder. and Each person is different. In the blues induce yellow on the skin. U.S. we have p ersonswho have some of the characte-r i sti cs oft he cool 3. As a general rule, persons coloring of the' Scandinavians with decided color may wear more blended with the warm coloring of the intense hues than those with pallid ~atin p-eople. ·Many are not definitely coloring. For example, a person .. blonde or brunett e but may have with dark hair, - ruddy complexion interesting characteristics of both and bright dark eyes can wear intense as, a blonde with brown eyes. There­ hues because their coloring is vivid fore, it is not possible to prescribe enough not to be outdone by strong ·colors for any definite type, as colors. On the other hand blonde blonde, because th ere is no definite hair, light or sallow skin and light type . eyes are over-powered by strong colors.

After consider ing skin, hair and 4. Unrelieved neutrals tend to eyes it is generally possible to class dull any skin tone but can be success­ most people a s warm or cool types. fully worn when relieved by a n accent If y ou· are a war m type y our best of some color, as in a scarf or neck­ colors will b e wa r m c olors, if you lac e , at the throa t. Sta r k are a cool type y our best colors will emphasizes s a 11 ow skins. Warm be the cool ones. white is generally' more fla ttering . -6-

5. CGlors that are warm enough in the same as the eyes but in a t~ be harmonious with the skin, yet darker and duller shade. d1fferent enough in hue, intensity and value to give interest and variety, 2. Repeat the color of the eyes are usually becoming to sallow skins. in small amounts on the costume.

6. Warm colors that are grayed 3. Wear the color complement and dark, are usually becoming to of the . florid skins. Every woman should experiment If you wish to play up the color with colors of different values and of hair: intensities until she finds those that are most becoming. Cosmetics, 1. Choose hues that contrast in skillfully used may widen her range value and in intensity with the hair. of becoming colors.

2. Repeat the color of the hair in Colors should be related to the small amounts in the costume. individual's coloring but should have contrasts to prevent dullness. 3. Choose a color complement of the hair.

The individual, whose hair is a 1

mixutre of dark and gray should avoid The Age Of The lndiv:idua11 fabrics of mixtures. as tweed, unless a solid color is worn near t,he face. She should also avoid­ As a woman grows older, her colors that give the hair an unpleasant hair and complexion change. She greenish cast. , tans and may find that the bright colors that yellow-greens may not be·attractive now seem overly intense and even with this changing type of hair. harsh. Bright colors and clear pas­ tels are for young girls with fresh, Soft grayed c o 1 o r s ·of d ark e r clear skins. Softer and duller colors values will probably be most becom­ will be more becoming to older wom­ ing, as well as soft, warm colors in en. They harmonize with the soften­ medium values. ing effect of graying hair and char­ acter lines in the face. If the hair that is turning gray has a brownish cast, the colors that were becomi_ngbefore the change will prob­ The Size Of Thle Individual ably stlll be the best, but they should be less intense. Choose the colors Colors may make a woman's that complement the skin and eyes. figure appear larger or smaller. Bright and light colors increase the W:hen the hair has become white a apparent size of the figure. Colors wider ran_ge of colors will probably of medium value blend with the back­ be becommg. The wise woman will ground and are, there f 0 r e, most capitalize on the air of distinction and suitable to the larger .or stouter fig­ sophistication, that white hair gives ure. Cool and dark colors are slen­ her, by choosing colors to accent it. derizing but very dark colors and especially black, call attention to If the color of the eyes is to be the silhouette and may emphasize emphasized: figure defects, such as very broad 1. Wear large amounts of a color hips. -7- T·he Personality P11anning Colors Of The Individual For Your Wardrohe Colors should enhance a per­ The economical plan, in choosing sonality and not over- shadow it. colors for your wardrobe, is to begin with a basic color. The most general Personalities may range from basic colors are: , brown, gray, the quiet, reserved, gentle type to black and . These colors the very aggressive, dynamic and can be worn year after year without vivacious type. A quiet, re­ becoming monotonous. served woman might seem to be over-powered by a bright red dress. A choice of color for a coat comes On the other hand a very neutral gray first, because this is usualiy an may make her seem colorless, and expensive item and -yvill be worllfor lack character unless an accent of a longer period of time. contrast is used.

A grayed blue or a soft may Colors for dresses may vary in complement her quiet reserve :apd hue, value and intensity from the coaJ dignity. Stronger, more aggressive but they should harmonize. personalities should wear stronger colors. Lighter values of hues give Accessories might be high style the feeling of delicacy and daintiness. and chosen in brighter, but still har­ monious colors.

The Effect Of Light When adding new c lathes to your wardrobe, choose colors that will Natural and art i tic i a 1 light, harmonize with those that you already whether incatn.descent or fluorscent, have. Consider, also, that light can give a different quality to color. colored fabrics require frequent Some colors may appear soft under cleaning. Bright colors and conspic­ artificial 1 i g h t s, while in sunlight uous printed designs may become they may appear too bright and harsh. tiresome. Colors will need to be chosen with consideration for the effect of light. Each season fashion designers emphasize different co 1 or s. The color in current fashion may not be Effecit Of T1exture becoming to you. However, the color might be used as an accessory and combined with some shade that is The same color may appear harsh becoming to you, in a shiny texture as satin yet appear soft ina dull texture as wool. Fabrics with a shiny surface will emphasize Bright colors or bold contrasts flaws in the skin, while a dull- sur­ may-emphasize your good points. For faced fabric will usually make the example, red shoes may call attention skin look clearer. Shiny textures to slim an k 1 e s and small feet. A call attention to the size of the figure~ bright at the waistline may accent a tiny waist.

C·ol.ors For The Occasion When combining colors in your A specific occasion often deter­ costume remember the "Suggestions mines the intensity or value of a for Making Color Combinations" given chosen color. Bright, gay colors in E. C. 56-1115 "Concerning Color". are often chosen for sportswear and evening gowns, while quieter, darker Well planned color combinations colors may be chosen for street and bring great satisfaction to the wearer business wear. as well as pleasure to others. -8-

WORK SHEET FOR SELECTING MY BECOMING COLORS

1, Skin Coloring:

Hue Value Texture

a. sallow (yellow) a. light a. clear b. tends toward yellow b. medium b. freckles c. medium c. dark c. blemishes d. tends toward red d. lines e. florid (red)

2. Hair Coloring: 3. Eye Coloring: (name the hue) (name the hue) a. light a. light b. medium b. medium c. dark d. dark d. golden

4. Age:

a. Youth (up to 25) b. Young adult (25 to 40) c. Middle age (40 to 60) d. Older adult (over 60)

5. Size:

a. petite d. short & stocky ______b. average e. tall & heavy ______c. tall & slender f. other ------~-----~--- (describe) 6. Personality:

a. quiet & reserved e. sophisticated______b. dignified g.f. forcefulvivacious ______c. feminine d. tends toward masculine h. other ------~--~-~---- (describe) 7. Warm colors will generally be Cool colors ------most becoming

Becoming colors for large areas as coats, dresses, suits, (select several that may be used interchangeably).

Becoming colors for small areas as blouses, hats, etc.

Very small accent areas as , jewelry, etc. ______

Basic color plan in my present wardrobe.------.------­ Additions I might make to my present color plan. -9-

Cut out the shaded area of this stencil with a razor blade. Place pieces of colored paper or cloth under the sten­ cil to make a that would be becoming to you or to some definite person.

Remember that the color of the skin, hair and eyes is also a part of the color scheme. -10- -11-

CHECK YOUR COLOR SCHEME Yes No

1. Is your color scheme definitely warm or cool with accents of the other ?

2. Is one main color used with lesser amounts of one or more other colors?

3. Are the largest areas of subdued and the smaller areas of brighter colors?

4. Have you used some light and some Clark colors?

5. Have you used a color (although possibly changed somewhat) in more than one place?

6. Do all the colors used in your color scheme seem to belong together and to enhance each other?

7. Do you have a harmonious combination of textures and pattern?

8. Do the colors which are placed near the face, enhance your coloring?

9. Is the value and intensity of the hue suited to your age?

10. Does the color seem to increase the size of your body to a point where your figure appears large?

11. Are the colors distributed to emphasize your good points and minimize the less desirable ones?

12. Are the colors suited to your personality?

13. Are the colors suited to the occasion and to your community?

14. Will you enjoy wearing them?

If you can answer "yes" to these questions, you have a well-planned color scheme that should give pleasure to you as well as to others.