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The Stone Age Stone the WWD in This Chiclinear Number ▲ FASHION: ▲ ACCESSORIES: The new stigma of Olivier luxury: brands fi ght back, page 8. Theyskens out at Nina Ricci, ▲ RETAIL: American Apparel’s page 5. Dov Charney plots future with new investor, page 13. Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • March 16, 2009 • $3.00 WWDAccessories/Innerwear/Legwear MONDAY The Stone Age Dazzled ’em. That’s what Alber Elbaz did with his dramatic approach to a season of all-out embellishments. In his stellar collection for Lanvin, he sparkle-trimmed his Forties- inspired dresses, giving them a decidedly modern edge, as in this chic linear number. For more, see pages 6 and 7. In ‘Solid’ Paris Season, Stores Reduce Budgets, Demand Lower Prices By WWD Staff PARIS — Retailers praised a safe-but-solid Paris fashion season based on polished French chic while pushing sharp pricing and the “wow” factor to the top of their buying agendas. “It is now apparent that the wealthiest women are taking price into consideration,” said Ann Watson, vice president and fashion director of Henri Bendel. “The customer is king again and is demanding substance, quality and great designs for her money.” Budgets for the fall-winter season are being pruned by up to 30 percent, sources said, putting the onus on designer vendors to deliver compelling fashions and terrific value — or be left in the dust. Some retailers estimated prices were down roughly 10 percent across the board at a time See Retailers PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 16, 2009 WWD.COM PHOTOGRAPHED BY BOB KRIEGER PHOTOGRAPHED WWDAccessories/Innerwear/LegwearMONDAY Haider Ackermann FASHION Paris rocked, from Olivier theyskens’ glittery minidress at Nina Ricci and s 6 Haider Ackermann’s metallic tunic to a stone-trimmed coat at Valentino. GENERAL NEW YORK, 29W 57TH STREET 7TH FLOOR, NEW YORK, N.Y. 10019 N.Y. YORK, NEW 29W 57TH STREET 7TH FLOOR, YORK, NEW Retailers praised a safe-but-solid Paris season based on polished chic, 1 pushing sharp pricing and the wow factor to the top of their agendas. 8 JEWELRY: As economic reality sinks deeper into consumer psyche, the luxury concept has gone from a badge of honor to a private indulgence. 11 ACCESSORIES: Mirroring declines at trade fairs across Europe, foreign visitors to Premiere Classe dropped 15 percent from last year. PAL ZILERI SHOWROOM ZILERI SHOWROOM PAL 12 INNERWEAR: NAP Inc., a once-thriving $100 million sleepwear specialist, has faded from the scene amid financial problems. 14 h&M’s first Russian store opened Friday in Moscow with a scrum for discount coupons and lines of 30 people clogging changing rooms. 15 A deepening global recession drove down textile and apparel imports to WWW.PALZILERI.COM the U.S. in January to the lowest level in that month in five years. 16 FINANCIAL: Declining market capitalizations, a reflection of the fall in stock prices, are wreaking havoc on company earnings and financing. Classified Advertisements..................................................................................................................................................................19 TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 197, NO. 56. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in March, April, June and August, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. COMING THIS WEEK DAILY The money MONDAY: New York Women’s Holiday “ Apparel Market (through March 27). QUOTE has to go out • L’Oréal Toronto Fashion Week the window to come back (through Friday). TUESDAY: The U.S. Labor Department releases the Producer Price Index through the door. for February. — Karl Lagerfeld, criticizing” the wealthy’s new • Guess Inc. reports fourth-quarter stinginess toward luxury in this economy. Page 8. and year-end sales and earnings. Progetto2:Layout 1 10-03-2009 15:58 Pagina 1 FROM THE EDITORS WEDNESDAY: Filo, Milan (through Thursday). • Interstoff Asia Essential, Hong Kong TODAY MARKS THE PREMIERE ISSUE OF (through Friday). WWDMen’s Collections, covering the men’s designer • The Labor Department releases the market and runway collections from New York, Milan Consumer Price Index for February. and Paris, as well as key American trade shows for • Benetton Group SpA and Charming fall. It is a brother publication to the semiannual Shoppes Inc. report fourth-quarter WWDCollections mag- and year-end sales and earnings. 3569_Gitman_Bros_Roadblock_CAD_01.indd 1 3/9/09 3:27:12 PM azine, which covers • Nike Inc. reports third-quarter the women’s ready-to- sales and earnings. wear runway seasons. Using the global THURSDAY: New York & Company Inc., resources of WWD, Perry Ellis International Inc., Ross the twice-yearly Stores Inc. and Stein Mart Inc. report WWDMen’s Collections fourth-quarter and year-end sales will provide exclusive and earnings. interviews with key de- signers and backstage FRIDAY: Designers & Agents, Los Angeles access at the season’s (through Sunday). hottest shows. Plus, it • Brighte Cos., Los Angeles will showcase signifi- (through March 23). cant trends and offer • Los Angeles Fashion Market and the an insider’s guide to New Mart Women’s Fall Apparel Market the season. (through March 24). Balenciaga, • Trend: Fall RTW contrast sleeves TODAY ON fall 2009. • The full fall season, with all reviews, images, Fashion GIANNONI Scoops and more from New York, London, Milan and Paris GIOVANNI • More images of Paris www.bresciani.it WWD BY accessories trends .COM PHOTO • Global breaking news Rightmillions now of women are talking about the brands they love. Shouldn’t they be talking about yours? WORD OF MOM™, PASS IT ON 4 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 16, 2009 Retailers Praise Paris’ Pizzazz, With Caveats Continued from page one Carla Sozzani, owner, Corso Como 10, Milan: “I thought Comme Rochas, which had great late-day and dinner dressing. when steep discounts are needed to coax spending. “Many des Garçons was fantastic, and I liked Balenciaga very The shoulder continues to be an important story, not as houses are focused on price and trying to deliver great much. There’s so much of the Eighties and I’m not a aggressive as in Milan — a little more Forties. Leather quality at a price: not trading down. That’ll be encouraging fan of the Eighties, especially when it’s literal, but at is so important, and jade green is looking really fresh. for the customer to shop. It’s an important strategy,” said Balenciaga, for example, you find really great clothes. It’s nice to see the continuation of all this big, shiny gold Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion direc- Azzedine Alaïa was also very good. Of course, he was big costume jewelry, as it’s a real bright spot at retail.” tor at Neiman Marcus. “Where the product is right, we’re in the Eighties, but he moved it forward.” there. When it’s not, it won’t be in our stores.” Colleen Sherin, fashion market director, Saks Fifth Avenue: “The Collections garnering wide praise from retailers in- Polina Kitsenko, co-owner, Podium, Moscow: “Everyone was key message in Paris was one of polished Parisian chic cluded Lanvin, Balenciaga, Givenchy, Dries Van Noten, pretty concerned that the economic situation would with a powerful edge: The idea of sculpted tailoring and Yves Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen and Haider bring down the mood of designers and influence their a return to investment dressing in terms of beautiful Ackermann, while Eighties- and Forties-style dresses, creativity.
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