SUCCESS IN THE CLYDE

Three years after we lost half of our first trip to The Clyde due to strong winds, we were back at Largs for a second attempt. This time the forecast could hardly be better – overcast with moderate winds for the first day, thereafter clear and sunny with medium to light winds. This time there were just two of us, Richard and myself sailing in my Mk1 ‘Shuna’. The objective was to put our collective experience together and attempt a reasonably ambitious trip; always aware that we were sailing alone, and to return slightly higher up the learning curve. We had a few items of new kit to test out – steering compass, masthead buoyancy, a set of Tough Charts and a new anchor setup which we hoped would give us our first night out at anchor. As forecast it was an overcast day with a gusty offshore easterly wind. To err on the side of caution we put a couple of reefs in the main and set off motoring out. We would leave the decision of which I woke several times in the night as the wind refused to sail combination to use until we were clear of the marina moderate, fully aware that we were still swinging about on and had a better idea of what the wind was doing. Our plan the end of the anchor warp but confident the anchor was was to head out between the two islands of Great and Little not dragging. This was definitely a very good test of the new Cumbrae, across to Garroch Head (the southern tip of Bute) setup (2.5kg Bruce, 4m of 6mm chain and 50m of 8mm and then head up the west side of Bute to St Ninnian’s Bay 3 strand nylon) and one that I would highly doubt the old where we hoped to find shelter from the easterly wind for anchor (1.5kg Danforth) would have handled. Looking north our first night at anchor. As the wind was right behind us as we tucked into breakfast, we could see a band of clear and still pretty gusty we opted for headsail only and settled blue sky, the high pressure system that had been forecast, into a very gentle and comfortable downwind passage. We slowly edging towards us. It was time to look at the charts made good progress between the islands and across The and make up our minds what to do with the day. When you Clyde. Garroch Head gradually drew closer and at no point set off on a four day trip it seems a long time in front of you, did we think of putting the reefed main up to gain any extra but now we were already starting to work backwards from our boat speed. finish point to see how we would make best use of the next three days. With light winds forecast for the remainder of our trip we decided that exploring part of Loch Fyne and then returning to Largs via the Kyles of Bute would be the best option. Returning via the West Kyle would nicely complement our previous trip - where we came up the East Kyle as far as Buttock Point, the north end of Bute, before retracing our route back to Largs - and would mean that this trip would give us a circumnavigation of Bute. So for our second day we decided to head west from Inchmarnock and sail over to the Kintyre coast and then head north along the coast to Tarbert. This would give us the option of overnighting in Tarbert or crossing Loch Fyne to Portavadie. We weighed anchor and set off, still with the double reef in the main though it wasn’t needed in the light winds. We rounded the north end of Inchmarnock and out into open water where it was obvious As expected, once we’d rounded to the west side of the island that full main was required so we quickly shook out the reefs. and were heading north we were in the shelter of the land. The clearance from the north was almost with us and it We hoisted the main and were nicely powered up heading wasn’t long before we were sailing in full sunshine and clear across towards Ardscalpsie Point and Inchmarnock. We beat blue skies. These were exactly the conditions we had been into St Ninnian’s Bay and although the wind was offshore it hoping for and couldn’t believe how lucky we were to have was quite a lot stronger than we would have liked for trying found them. The west coast was looking at its magnificent out the anchor. We selected our spot, dropped the anchor, let best with spectacular views south to Arran and the Highlands out plenty of warp and took some transit bearings to check to the north. If the forecast was right this is how it would stay whether we were holding. We were certainly being buffeted for the next three days. about by the wind, being swung side to side with the short chop slapping against the side of the hull on each swing. We arrived in Tarbert, a most attractive natural harbour. Short of pulling the anchor back up and setting off to look for Lunch was spent watching some serious drilling rigs siting somewhere else that might, or might not, be more sheltered piles for a substantial expansion of the marina facilities. there was nothing to be done but sit tight and keep checking Richard assured me we had visited Tarbert over 20 years ago we were not dragging. We put the tent up and got some very by land; whether I could remember it or not mattered little now welcome soup going. Keeping a sharp look-out and checking as we strolled round the harbour in the perfect afternoon sun the transits, our confidence that the anchor was well set was – after all, arriving anywhere by boat under your own steam starting to increase. beats arriving by road any day. 28

WAYFARER NEWS SUMMER 2012 ISSUE 124 Sunday morning and the forecast was still good – clear blue skies, warm sun and a nice sailing breeze; we really could get very used to this. Instead of immediately heading south down Loch Fyne we decided to explore a little way north up the east coast of the loch and then turn round. The wind was southerly so it would mean a longer beat but we were in no hurry and conditions like this were to be savoured. We pottered north along the coast nosing into the odd bay and threading our way in-between some small islands before finding a nice sheltered anchorage where we both agreed it was time for mid morning coffee and a snack. The beat back was thoroughly enjoyable with the coastal scenery constantly changing as we passed Portavadie and headed further to Asgog Bay. Asgog Bay is one of those spots that look absolutely fascinating on the chart and just have to be visited. Once inside it is like a large lagoon, sheltered from pretty much every direction and the perfect spot for lunch. Whilst heading back in the direction of Largs and the thought of our trip coming to an end was not something we wanted to dwell on, we were both enjoying every moment knowing how The decision was made to carry on to Portavadie. We motored lucky we were to have got away in such perfect conditions. out of Tarbert and once clear of the harbour hoisted sail and enjoyed some of the best sailing of the trip reaching across Loch Fyne. I had looked up Portavadie Marina’s website prior to the trip so I was not completely surprised at what we found. For anyone who had not done so or who did not know what to expect it would be a major shock. Portavadie could be described as anything from ‘ultimate 5 star luxury’ to ‘the biggest white elephant on the West Coast’. Occupying a basin originally built for work on North Sea oil platforms that never materialised, many millions of pounds have been spent in developing a substantial marina complex. The buildings are new and pristine, the restaurant claims to offer the highest quality local produce and the showers and washrooms are nothing short of palatial and would not be out of place at any top hotel. The marina was at most a third full and we could only wonder who had invested such a substantial amount of money in this remote spot. We did ask the cost for the night before deciding to stay – a bargain £10 to include use of all facilities. After confirming the showers were as good as they looked, a meal ashore was the priority. We opted for the After lunch the wind decided to take a break for a while and slightly more modest option of bar meals at their offshoot, we used the outboard to push on towards the West Kyle. ‘The Lodge’ a few minutes walk away. Again, brand new luxury Once we rounded Ardlamont Point and entered the Kyle, surroundings and the food and beer excellent. We returned to breeze filled in from astern and we were able to revert to sails. the boat and our second night was much quieter in the shelter Richard helmed most of this part and I was able to enjoy that of the marina. rarest of luxuries of doing absolutely nothing, just soaking in the wonderful west coast scenery and reminding myself that this is the reason we do this.

As the Kyle narrowed there was a sense of anticipation of getting back onto known territory once we reached the northern tip of Bute. Whilst we could concede to one night of luxury and food ashore the purpose of this trip was a wilderness experience and to get away from as much as we could so another night at anchor it was to be. Loch Riddon was our chosen destination for our final night afloat. We took a good look around the mile long loch, at one point running aground where it was obviously a lot shallower than it appeared, and eventually found a spot to anchor. In the shelter of the enclosed loch the breeze had all but died and the evening was as peaceful as could ever be hoped for.

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Find all the latest news at: www.wayfarer.org.uk Last morning of the trip but not a breath of wind in Loch Riddon, in the East Kyle or in fact anywhere along the route back to Largs, so engine power it was. One of my great pleasures of yacht sailing is breakfasting under way; those mornings where you just cast off or weigh anchor and set off, perhaps even before some of the crew have woken up. Obviously it’s a little harder on a Wayfarer but with hindsight perhaps that is what we should have done to enjoy our breakfast as the scenery gently glided past. Our passage back was halted only by a brief encounter with a pair of porpoises off Port Bannatyne. The Clyde itself was deceptive; by now the mirror flat water had changed to a small chop and we kept trying to convince ourselves there was some wind, but there definitely wasn’t so all eighteen miles were under motor.

Without doubt we were returning a notch or two higher up the learning curve but equally aware that there are a never ending number of notches still above us. This will be the trip to be stored away in the memory banks for the day that things do not go to plan or the weather decides not to co-operate; it really is hard to say how this trip could have gone any better.

Jonathan Jenkins, sailing with Richard Coombs on W2312 ‘Shuna’

Safely back in Largs, having unloaded and recovered the boat and enjoying a late lunch in that finest of Marina Cafés, ‘The Bosun’s Table’, we were incredibly satisfied with what we had achieved and knew just how fortunate we had been with the conditions. All our objectives had been met and over the four days we had covered around 75 miles. The new gear had been tried out and, whilst we had not had faced any difficult conditions or decisions to make, we had most definitely made the most of our time away and perhaps most importantly we had passed the challenge of our first night at anchor.

FAMILY WILDERNESS TRIP ON There was not a breath of wind so both boats headed out from Balmaha under power and threading their way through After years of heading up the A82 to the Highlands, it was not the moorings nosed out onto the Loch itself. We made our until 2008 that we begun to discover what Loch Lomond has way across to for a brief lunch stop and then to offer. Attending the Wayfarer rally held over the May Day onwards to Inchconnachan where we started the serious job bank holiday weekend of that year was a great introduction of looking around for a good camping location. to start to get our bearings. We returned in August for a three day trip wild camping on one of the islands and despite We had a good look round the south end of the island 24 hours of torrential rain, a leaking tent and waterlogged and then into the narrows between Inchconnachan and ground we vowed to return. and found what looked to be an ideal spot. Both boats were pulled up on the beach and we straightaway Almost exactly two years to the day we were back again with charged the children with foraging for whatever wood they Adam, now five, and now with Tom just short of his second could find to get a fire going. We quickly set up our tents and a birthday. The plan was again to launch at Balmaha Boatyard tarp as a basic cooking shelter and began to make ourselves and then head out and find somewhere to camp for a couple feel at home. By mid afternoon it was time for the Coombs’s to of nights. We had some emergency food with us, which at a head off and leave us to ourselves. By the evening it started stretch meant we could stay out for a third night. For the first to rain just as the forecast had predicted but we were ready day we were to be joined by our friends the Coombs family to turn in early and it didn’t matter. in their Wayfarer Dumyat; after that we would be on our own.

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WAYFARER NEWS SUMMER 2012 ISSUE 124 Our first full day out was one of settling in to our camp and getting to know the island. Clearly the best way is to do a circumnavigation, so with bright warm sunshine and a perfect gentle sailing breeze we headed up through the narrows, round the north end, back down the east side keeping well clear of the bay where the ospreys nests are and back round the south of the island to our camp. Views were stunning in every direction, across the lake to the other islands and up to Ben Lomond away to the north.

After lunch Adam and I decided to set off on foot and walked along the shore path along the west side of the island. We passed some derelict buildings and followed another path upwards and eventually reached the highest point on the island with views out across the loch in every direction. Back at our camp the boys made the most of the fine warm weather paddling in the water and playing on the beach with their buckets and spades which are essential items of our cruising kit always packed in the aft buoyancy tank. By late afternoon it was time for more wood foraging and to get the fire going again.

On our third day we decided to venture further afield. Research before leaving home had confirmed that the Hotel on serves bar lunches and welcomes non- residents so it was decided that that was to be our destination. Again there was little wind, something that for family trips we would always prefer over too much wind, so we set off using the outboard. We hugged the western shore of the loch and resisted any temptation to land on the famous golf course, however attractive it looked and then cut across directly to the southern tip of Inchmurrin. Getting ashore was easy courtesy of the jetty directly in front of the hotel. We took a short walk to the other side of the island making a detour to explore the castle ruins en-route. A hot lunch was enjoyed, drinking water supplies were replenished and fresh milk purchased from the hotel. By the time we left the jetty a nice breeze filled in and we enjoyed a fine sail back to Inchconnachan, so good that Tom fell asleep whilst sitting up on the front bench of the boat. Once back at camp it was clear that we would be staying another night and the emergency rations would be coming into play. After another firewood search it was just a question of enjoying another beach fire and savouring the time we were fortunate enough to be spending there. you actually get up and get going. We definitely Our third morning on the island again dawned dry, bright and did have to pack up and head back to Balmaha so with light winds; we couldn’t have asked for anything better. In there was no choice. Perhaps tears from the boys on view of this could we stay out another night? We believed that leaving the island were not entirely unexpected given there was a general store in so it seemed a good plan how much they had enjoyed the last few days. After to go off and find out. A gentle breeze took us up the channel recovering the boat and packing up as quickly as we between Inchtavannach and the mainland and we were soon could a pub lunch in front of the fire at Rowardennan pulling the boat up the beach at Luss. A short walk up to the Hotel seemed by far the best option. Typically, by main road and we found the store, but what a culture shock early afternoon the rain had cleared, but who could – bus loads of tourists hanging around in total contrast to the complain after four fine days. island we were enjoying to ourselves. Basic provisions and a few treats were quickly purchased and we headed back to As Wayfarer owners we rightly sing the praises of the the beach. Our last afternoon was again spent enjoying our great boat we are privileged to sail and I am certainly camp and the fine weather. Previous visitors had left a rope no exception to this. Reflecting back on this trip I swing nearby which the boys both enjoyed playing on and was left wondering how else we could have given buckets and stones really can keep small children occupied our children the wilderness experience that they had for long periods. enjoyed so much over the five days.

On Friday morning we awoke to steady rain. It always sounds Jonathan Jenkins, W2312, ‘Shuna’ worse in the tent and it’s never as bad as you think when

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Find all the latest news at: www.wayfarer.org.uk