The Peace Corps, Sierra Leone, and Me

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The Peace Corps, Sierra Leone, and Me The Peace Corps, Sierra Leone, and Me: fifty years later Norman Tyler Copyright 2015, Norman Tyler All rights reserved For permission to reproduce selections from this book, contact the author at [email protected] 2 Table of Contents ! Introduction!......................................................................................................................!5! The$trip$over!...................................................................................................................!16! Our$two#year%tour%begins!...........................................................................................!23! Finally,(an(extended(vacation!..................................................................................!134! Returning)to)Sierra)Leone!........................................................................................!157! Post#Tour!.......................................................................................................................!179! Postscript!.......................................................................................................................!184! End$Notes!.......................................................................................................................!191! ! 3 Sidebars! The origins of the Peace Corps 7 Applying to the Peace Corps 9 Peace Corps training 11 Brief history of Sierra Leone up to my arrival in 1964 20 Sierra Leone's rainy season 46 Sierra Leone's government structure 52 Poro Secret Society 54 Diamond mining in Sierra Leone 77 The use of the Krio language 78 Our 1960s attitude about pets 83 WAWA: West Africa Wins Again 105 Country cloth blankets 110 One PVC's perspective on being a Rural Development Specialist 112 Cinva-Ram blocks 113 Our pets 119 Eating and meals 131 Norm's simple recipe for Granat (Peanut) stew 132 Status of Cameroons in 1965 143 Jeff Mareck's trip around Africa 145 Brief history of Sierra Leone since my departure in 1966 182 4 Introduction This is the story of a naive nineteen-year-old kid from Michigan who joined the Peace Corps in 1964. Enthused by the challenge from President John F. Kennedy for international service, I applied to the Peace Corps in 1963 and accepted a placement the next year for a Rural Development Program in Sierra Leone, West Africa. Throughout my two-year tour I kept a diary of daily activities, occasionally expanding comments into personal reflections on my role in this unfamiliar culture. Reading the diary served as a reminder of the many challenging, but ultimately rewarding, experiences I had that gradually changed me and my entire perspective on life. The two years as a Volunteer in Sierra Leone have had a profound impact on who I am fifty years later. The following pages represent my daily thoughts as a young man who had little knowledge of, but great curiosity about, the world outside the borders of Michigan. Diary entries are quite regular in the first year, and become less frequent during the second year, when much of the newness of things had worn off; they have been abridged to better keep the reader's interest. Interspersed are sections from letters home to Mom and Dad (Norma and Charles Tyler). The letters were thoughtfully preserved by them and given to me upon my return to Michigan. Also included in the narrative are "sidebars" describing in more detail relevant information; they provide context for the diary entries. Most of the photos are my own. Others are credited to Mike Bradbury, my Volunteer housemate for the two years. Images may be poor quality by today's standards, since some of the film deteriorated in the tropical climate, but enough detail remains to give a visual image of our experiences. I lived in the town of Kenema, upcountry in eastern Sierra Leone. For most of that time I lived with fellow Volunteers Mike Bradbury and Joe Sharp. After reviewing the diary entries, I found the great preponderance of the narrative was about projects for which I had primary responsibility, rather than other volunteers. It will be left to them to tell their own stories. Although our relationships as housemates were sometimes strained during our two years, as would be expected under the stress of living in such a foreign environment, I have continued to keep a friendship with Mike, and have had occasional contact with Joe, over the past fifty years. When I decided in 2015 to convert the handwritten entries to digital format, it was the first time I had read the diary since leaving Sierra Leone. I originally intended to record this manuscript as a memoir for my wife, Ilene, our two sons and daughter-in-law, and other close relatives. However, readers who reviewed it as a manuscript encouraged its publication, since they indicated my experiences in those two years would be of interest to a larger audience. The Peace Corps was largelgy responsible for changing me into a lifelong community advocate, a perspective carried throughout my professional career, providing motivation to work on community issues and, in a typical 1960s kind of way, change the world for the better. It is difficult to underestimate the influence the Peace Corps experience had in influencing my life since then. I continued to participate directly with the agency for a number of years, first as a trainer for new Peace Corps Volunteers, next serving with my new wife, Ilene, as VISTA program volunteers in Baltimore, followed by a period of recruiting new volunteers for Peace Corps and VISTA.1 As described in the Epilogue, the two of us have stayed involved as community advocates wherever we 5 have lived and worked over five decades. But the root of this involvement was in 1964 when I received the acceptance letter inviting me to become a Peace Corps Volunteer. 6 The origins of the Peace Corps The idea of an international volunteer corps was initiated by John F. Kennedy during his presidential campaign in 1960. He first proposed the concept in a late-night speech on the steps of the Michigan Union at The University of Michigan. Soon after his election, he followed through on the idea and the Peace Corps was established through an Executive Order and authorized by Congress in September 1961. The first director of the Peace Corps was R. Sargent Shriver, the president's brother-in-law, who was given full responsibility for development of its policies. Just as America's early pioneers developed the wilderness by spreading out across the land, the idealistic basis of the Peace Corps was that American volunteers would spread out across the world and help develop "Third World" countries. A Peace Corps recruiting brochure stressed that "the volunteer must be prepared to live a pioneer life."2 The first volunteers were placed in Africa. It was a strange view most Americans had of the "Dark Continent" at that time; it was seen as an almost mythical place. Robert Coughlan described Africa when writing for Life magazine in 1959: "It is the black Africa of apes and ivory, of Stanley and Livingston, of crocodile and lion, and of 125 million people still living in or at the edge of savagery." He wrote, "almost all Africans were quite primitive," suffering from the "inertia of eons of ignorance." For Coughlan, Americans had a role to help Africans "explode out of the Stone Age into the modern world."3 The challenge of the Peace Corps was to bring a better understanding between Americans and other peoples of the world and reduce such misunderstandings of other cultures. The Peace Corps was established on three primary purposes—to provide technical assistance to other countries, to help people outside the United States understand American culture, and to help Americans to understand the cultures of other countries. The Peace Corps would only place volunteers in countries where they had been requested, and only in programs the host country had described, so volunteers should feel welcomed upon arrival. Because the policies of the new agency were amorphous at the beginning, the ideal Volunteer was seen as a recent graduate with a B.A. Generalist degree able to adapt to do almost anything, since "... nobody knew exactly what they were training the volunteers for."4 The Peace Corps idea caught on quickly, especially among younger Americans. Shriver and his staff conceptualized how "... a cadre of new pioneers would help cure a malaise among the American youth of the 1960s."5 Within two years over 7,300 Volunteers had been placed in 44 countries. Policies regarding volunteer placement have remained largely unchanged over the years. Volunteers typically serve for two years. The Peace Corps provides them with housing and a living stipend to cover food and incidentals—allowing them to live similarly to the people in their community. The minimum age for service is 18; there is no upper age limit. The health, safety, and security of volunteers are the Peace Corps’ highest priorities, and most volunteers recognized medical care as one of the most satisfying aspects of their experience. The agency has stayed true to its original goals. Over the decades other countries have been concerned about America's military and economic dominance and hegemony, and anti-American sentiment often causes international friction. However, over the years the Peace Corps has steered 7 clear of major political and diplomatic conflicts. It is a testament to the underlying idea of volunteer service that in the 54 years of its existence, over 220,000 Peace Corps Volunteers have served in 140 countries; currently there are over 6,800 Volunteers
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