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Etappe 61: Isle of Skye Broadford – Bracadale – Dunvegan – Portree – Kilmaluag – Uig (155 Km) Eine Rundfahrt Über

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Etappe 61: Isle of Skye Broadford – Bracadale – Dunvegan – Portree – Kilmaluag – Uig (155 Km) Eine Rundfahrt Über Etappe 61: Isle of Skye Broadford – Bracadale – Dunvegan – Portree – Kilmaluag – Uig (155 km) Eine Rundfahrt über die Insel Skye, die durch Abstecher ausgebaut werden kann (und sollte). Skye ist bekannt als die „Wolkeninsel“ (so auch eine der möglichen Übersetzungen der gälischen Bezeichnung), was schon hinreichend klar macht, welche Wetterlage hier im allgemeinen herrscht. Zwar hat Skye kein Monopol auf wolkenverhangenen Himmel, aber höhere Berge, von denen die Insel einige besitzt, neigen nun einmal besonders dazu, ihre Gipfel den Augen der Betrachter zu entziehen. Skye ist die größte Insel der inneren Hebriden und auch aufgrund der guten Verkehrsanbindung die am meisten besuchte. Sie besteht im Grund aus einem halben Dutzend Halbinseln mit recht unterschiedlichen Landschaftsformen – allerdings überwiegend hügelig bis bergig. Abseits der Straßen können viele Gebiete erwandert werden, und Abstecher in Täler abseits des Hauptstraßenringes sind immer lohnend. Als erster solcher Ausflug bietet sich die Fahrt nach Elgol über die A881 von Broadford aus an. Unterkunft auf Skye: Croft Bunkhouse, 7 Portnalong, (01478) 640254, 26 Betten, ganzj.; Fossil Bothy, 13 Lower Breakish, (01471) 822644, 8 Betten, Ostern-Okt., unbedingt telefonisch anmelden; Skye Backpackers Guest House, Kyleakin, (01599) 534510, 35 Betten, ganzj.; Skyewalker Independent Hostel, The Old School, Portnalong, Carbost, (01478) 640250, 34 Betten, ganzj.; Dun Flodigarry Hostel, Staffin, (01470) 552212, 66 Betten, ganzj. Fahrradvermietung: Fairwinds, Broadford, (01474) 822270, Übernachtung möglich. Die Etappe beginnt in Broadford auf der A87 Rchtg. Portree, die sich 25 km lang nördlich der höchsten Gipfel der Insel entlangschlängelt. Ein kleines Museum im Stil der Jahrhundertwende befindet sich etwa auf halber Strecke in Luib. Im Örtchen Sconser gibt es eine Fährverbindung der CalMac zur nördlich gelegenen Insel Raasay (außer so, bis zu sechsmal tägl., £ 2.10 je Strecke), einem für Naturfreunde interessanten Ziel. Jugendherberge: Creachan Cottage, Raasay, (01478) 660240, 30 Betten, Fahrrad- verm., 20.3.-1.11., einfaches Haus nördlich der Anlegestelle. Bei der Mündung des River Sligachan in das gleichnamige Loch verlassen Sie die A87 und fahren auf der A863 weiter Richtung Dunvegan. Camping: Sligachan, (01478) 660204, 80 Standpl., April-Okt., an der Gabelung von A87 und A863. Nach etwa 10 km bietet sich die nächste Möglichkeit zu einem sinnvollen Abstecher: über die B8009 und anschließende Nebenstraße ins Glen Brittle. Dort hat man die beste Möglichkeit, die Cuillin Hills zu besteigen, die höchsten Gipfel der Insel und höchst ungewöhnlich geformt. Das Wort „Hügel“ darf dabei als Ausdruck britischen Understatements betrachtet werden. 1 Kartenskizze Etappe 61 2 Jugendherberge: Glenbrittle, (01478) 640278, 48 Betten, 20.3.-1.11., 2 km vor dem Ende der Straße. Camping: Glenbrittle Farm, (01478) 640404, 200 Standpl., April-Sept., einfacher Platz, aber wildcampen ist in dieser Gegend strikt verboten. Wenn Sie der A863 weiter folgen, kommen Sie durch Bracadale und Struan nach Roskhill und weiter nach Dunvegan. Das ist der Standort der Stammburg der MacLeods; der Bau kann zwar besichtigt werden, aber sparen Sie Ihre Zeit besser für den Schloßpark auf, oder machen Sie gleich einen längeren Abste- cher über die B884 (südlich von Dunvegan) Rchtg. Colbost, wo es außer Ein- samkeit ein kleines volkskundliches Museum gibt. Camping: Loch Greshornish, Borve, Arnisort, Edinbane, (01470) 582230, 130 Standpl., April-Okt., 10 km von Dunvegan an der A850 an der weiteren Streckenführung. Weiter geht’s auf der A850. Bei der Fairy Bridge, 4 km von Dunvegan entfernt, haben Sie erneut Gelegenheit zu einem Abstecher, in diesem Fall auf der B886 auf die Vaternish-Halbinsel. Über die hier rechts abzweigende A850 erreichen Sie nach etwa 20 km die Einmündung in die A87 und auf dieser nach weiteren 5 km den Hauptort der Insel, Portree. Obwohl hier alle Straßen zusammenlau- fen und alle Arten von Versorgungsunternehmen tätig sind, hat Portree die Atmosphäre eines ruhigen Fischerortes bewahren können. Information: Bayfield House, Portree IV51 9EL, (01478) 612137, ganzjährig. Unterkunft: Portree Backpackers, 6 Woodpark, (01478) 613641, 26 Betten. Camping: Torvaig, Staffin Road, (01478) 612209, 90 Zeltstandpl., April-Okt., 2 km nördlich des Ortes. Fahrradvermietung: Island Cycles, The Green, (01478) 613121. Von Portree aus wählen Sie zur Umrundung der Trotternish-Halbinsel die A855, die nordwärts nach Staffin führt. Auf dieser Strecke kommen Sie an einigen bemerkenswerten Naturphänomenen vorbei: dem Old Man of Storr, einem 50 m hohen Felsblock, am Wasserfall von Mealt und schließlich am Kilt Rock, so benannt nach der schottenrockartigen Basaltformation des Felsens. Unterkunft: Independent Hostel, Old Post Office, (01470) 613737, 60 Betten. Camping: Staffin, (01470) 562213, 62 Standpl., Mitte April-Okt. Falls Sie nicht die volle Inselumrundung absolvieren möchten, sollten Sie Ihren Waden die links abbiegende Nebenstraße („Quiraing“) nach Uig zumuten, denn das ist zweifellos eine der schönsten Straßen nicht nur auf Skye, sondern in ganz Schottland. Ansonsten folgen Sie weiter der A855. An der Nordspitze von Skye befinden sich die Ruinen von Duntulm Castle aus dem 15. Jh., auf den er- sten Blick von der Felsenlandschaft kaum zu unterscheiden. An der Score Bay folgt schließlich das interessanteste Museum auf Skye, eine Ansammlung von „Black Houses“, die heute das Kilmuir Croft Museum beherbergen. Die Häuser tragen ihre Bezeichnung nicht etwa wegen eines Außenanstrichs, sondern auf- grund der in ihnen herrschenden Dunkelheit: die Behausungen der Crofter hat- ten früher keinerlei Fenster und auch keinen Kamin – der durch das Strohdach abziehende Rauch wurde zum Imprägnieren sekundärverwertet. Das Ende der 3 Etappe ist schließlich in Uig erreicht; kurz vor dem Ort müssen Sie noch über einen Hügel. Uig ist der Fährhafen für die Strecken zu den Äußeren Hebriden, im übrigen aber ein sehr kleiner Ort mit schönem Blick auf die Bucht. Falls Sie diese Fähren nicht zur Fortsetzung Ihrer Reise nutzen möchten, können Sie entweder durchgehend über die A856 und A850 nach Broadford zurückfahren oder die Überquerung der Quiraing-Berge (s.o.) Rchtg. Staffin einschieben. In Broadford erhalten Sie dann Anschluß an die Etappen 50 oder 60 in umgekehrter Richtung. Information: Ferry Terminal, (01470) 542404. Jugendherberge: (01470) 542211, 64 Betten, 20.3.-1.11., Fahrradvermietung, südlich von Uig über der Bucht. Fahrradvermietung: Mr. MacKenzie, 5 Glenconnon, (01470) 542311. 4.
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