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DECEMBER 2015

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Editor-in-Chief Oscar Holland Food & Drink Editor Noelle Mateer Staff Reporter Dominique Wong National Life & Style Editor Marianna Cerini National Arts Editor Andrew Chin Designers Xiaoran Li, Iris Wang Staff Photographer Holly Li Contributors Mia Li, Wang Xuejun, Trevor Marshallsea, Zoey Zha, Jens Bakker

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2 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM EDITOR’S DEALS NOTE We're giving away tickets to some of DECEMBER the very best Beijing REGULAR READERS MAY REMEMBER MY FUTILE SEARCH FOR A KAZAKH IN THE BUILD- parties, openings, up to the 2022 Winter Olympics hosting decision (‘A Hazy Shade of Winter,’ That’s Beijing, September 2015). For those who don’t: it was a chaotic affair of closed restaurants, frustrated phone calls and, ultimately, disappointment for Almaty’s bid to host the Games. shows and talks all But as well as engaging in some mild sarcasm, I also implied that media relations at the Kazakhstan Embassy weren’t up to scratch. So perhaps it was no surprise when a call came month, alongside invited in for a ‘talk’ with some of his attachés. free meals, drinks, through.It sounded A copy a bit of sinister.the magazine But despite had made my initial its way trepidation, up to the Ambassador’s it turns out that office they and were I was just keen to reach out and let us know about their work. Ever happy to be corrected, I can inform you that there are, in fact, a fair few Kazakhstan nationals here in Beijing (with students discounts and numbering in the thousands). The embassy also engages in a lot of work promoting Kazakh culture in China, as well as advancing bilateral cooperation between these neighboring giants giveaways. All you (not a phrase I ever thought I’d use in an Editor’s Note). This month, the embassy’s Kazakhstan Friends Club celebrated the launch of a new book, have to do is scan China and Kazakhstan's Story (pictured below). Although my Chinese is slightly better than my Kazakh, neither is good enough for me to say much about the book’s contents. But you the QR code below, should check it out. I shall now try to forge a tenuous segue between this merry tale and the contents of this month’s magazine. Here we go: follow us on WeChat The Winter Olympics decision was one of the big stories of 2015. There were many others, and we bring you our round-up of the year from page 38. Elsewhere, Marianna Cerini sits in and keep an eye out front of a bowl of water as she wonders whether China’s fervor for mindfulness is more about money than meditation (page 10); Dominique Wong spends an unhealthy amount of time in for your chance to late-night bars exploring one of the world’s great musical phenomena – Filipino cover bands (page 30); and Noelle Mateer talks to the restaurateurs who are taking design seriously, before bringing you her characteristically innuendo-laden take on the latest openings (from win. You'll get some page 50). other great stuff on your phone too. Келесі жылы сізді қараңыз (see you next year),

A covert selfie from inside the Kazakhstan Embassy (left), and the Kazakhstan Friends Club's new Oscar Holland book, China and Kazakhstan's Story Editor-in-Chief (below).

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WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 3 QUOTE OF THE MONTH “Weibo is dead. Now it’s just a place for celebrities to show off how happy they are” Liz Carter, author and journalist, in our review of 2015, page 60

6 CITY

8 THE NAME GAME Chinese artist reveals he’s actually a Frenchman 9 CONFUCIAN COUNSEL Marital woes – should I stay or should I go? 15 WORD ON THE STREET The dark side of online shopping 8 addiction

16 LIFE & STYLE

22 THAT’S PRESENTS... The ultimate gift guide for the festive season 20 PORTRAIT OF CHINA Up close and personal with a Shanxi cook 24 SCENE AND HEARD Cult yoga brand Lululemon sets up 20 shop

26 ARTS

28 SHOOT TO SCORE We meet indie rockers Chinese Football 34 ICE, ICE, BABY Icelandic group múm are feeling chill 35 YEAR OF THE GOOSE A novel from the winner of our flash fiction competition 28

50 EAT & DRINK

55 MIFAN/MAFAN Is the rice worth the hassle at these new openings? 56 SNACK ATTACK Laobeijing treats get the photo treatment 58 SHEER LUNAR-CY New restaurant Moon Lamb 58 Restaurant

4 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM THE WRAP 10 HELP YOURSELF What’s behind the meditation craze sweeping China?

52 WINE & DINE… & DESIGN Good design takes dining to a whole new level

30 BEHIND THE COVERS We explore life in one of Beijing’s Filipino cover bands

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 5 THE BUZZ

A LUNGFUL Over 1,500 people form a giant pattern of a pair of lungs in Beijing Garden Expo Park, smashing the Guinness World Record for the largest human image of an organ. Ironically, the AQI level that day was ‘extremely hazardous’ :/

UNDERGROUND CRIMINALS RANDOM NUMBER

There are murderers, drug dealers, rapists, and then there are… illegal basement builders. Beijing authorities recently discovered the …is the amount of time it took, in hours, to replace an entire overpass city’s largest illegal basement to date in Dongcheng’s Shaluo Hutong. at Sanyuanqiao. Last month the Sanyuanqiao cloverleaf junction The owner, Li, was just hoping to park some cars in it. Over 100 of closed for just one weekend as planners reinforced the structure them, that is – Li runs a car-rental company, and was planning on without paralyzing traffic flow (well not too much of it, anyway). using his illegal basement as a garage. But rather than going down Workers used global- and laser-positioning systems – and robots the legal construction route, he hired part-time workers to build from – to get the new structure in place by midday Sunday. Despite not midnight until the early morning, and had them use shovels rather completing the work in a single day as initially planned (the 30-year- than power tools, so as to make less noise. The result is a garage old bridge’s central beams were a little worse for wear, requiring that’s 700sqm and three floors deep. And no, you can’t park your bike extra dismantling work), it was still an impressive feat. Time-lapses there, sorry. of the construction can be found online.

6 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM [email protected]

SOMETHING FISHY ASK A LAOBEIJING Beijing Aquarium welcomed a new addition We met Zang, 52, outside Ginza Mall in Dongzhimen last month, in the form of a giant wild Chinese sturgeon. Measuring over three meters long, the sturgeon was found injured What were the most at the Yangtze River Basin after being memorable events mistakenly caught by a fisherman. It has of 2015 for you and since undergone treatment at the aquarium, for China? where it will remain for further care. The species is the largest of its kind found in the past 20 years, and its status as ‘critically endangered’ affords it strict protection under Chinese law. Bonus fact: the sturgeon in question is an egg-bearing female, a big win for species preservation.

It was a pretty eventful year for me because my husband QUOTE OF THE MONTH and I retired. Now, during our spare time we sell boxed lunches to workers and college students. This job makes "In the war between me feel very enthusiastic and satisfied. Right now, the smog and man, have the delivery time has just passed so I'm getting ready to go home and rest. government, companies Since our retirement, my husband and I are like an old married couple and it’s easy to get bored. Every day and the public really my husband does the same thing – gets up, eats and maybe goes to the store to buy some things – but I am made efforts in the same more anxious and like to keep active. Doing this job also direction?" means I can help young white-collar office workers by delivering their hometown meals. These people have Environmental-regulations-official-turned- left their homes, and their parents are no longer by their novelist Li Chunyuan asks this tough sides, so this service makes them feel very happy. It’s question in his newly released book, The very fulfilling to see this. Conundrum of Smog. Along with its prequel Who were the heroes or villains of 2015? To be honest, Smog is Coming, the novel is a thriller about I pay limited attention to the news. But I do feel that Xi a hypothetical pollution crisis in the (not- Jinping has done well this year. He’s done some really too-distant) future. While both have been practical things that will benefit the people of China, like met with success, Li still keeps his day job improving China’s international relations, for example. as deputy director of the Environment In my opinion, this is really the biggest news of the year: Protection Bureau of Langfang, Hebei. China has been much friendlier with other countries. The more agreeable the country is, the better. Mutually friendly relations can result in increased tourism, which would be wonderful! Peace is ideal. But if the country has difficulties, we will have the money to keep up our domestic output. I feel that next year will certainly be better, for me personally and China as a whole. As every year passes, life improves. We are all living much better now compared to the past. As told to Dominique Wong

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 7 CITY | TALES TALES OF THE CITY

So who is Tao Hongjing? To some, he is a “People were interested – whether foreign as Robert Galbraith to avoid the hype fifth century Chinese philosopher and by or Chinese – because the art spoke about associated with her fame. The artist known all accounts a pretty funny guy. To others, China, so it was easy for people to relate. as Banksy is avoiding arrest. he is the artist behind 10 years’ worth And also in terms of form, people were While assuming a name that implies a of exhibitions in China. But the latter, it appreciative.” different ethnicity may be less common (or transpires, wasn’t as it seemed. Because Reports claim that the decision was also revealed less often, at least), Ouiary is not after a decade of deception, Tao Hongjing quite profitable, though Ouiary is quick to the first. When Michael Derrick Hudson was revealed to be the alter ego of French point out that the art produced under both exposed himself as the poet Yi-Fen Chou artist Alexandre Ouiary. his names has grown in value. earlier this year, there was uproar. The The Frenchman decided to use a “The value of your artwork increases American admitted that he used the nom pseudonym after struggling to gain because you sell more or because you do de plume as an explicit strategy for ‘placing’ recognition in a market dominated by more exhibitions. I’ve been working for 15 poems, after his original poem, sent under foreign demand for Chinese art. Last month, years, so of course it’s higher.” his real name, was rejected multiple times. Tao exposed his true identity in a move that The alias wasn’t a complete , with It worked. The poem ‘The Bees, the Flowers, neatly coincided with his final exhibition, a few industry insiders aware of the ruse. Jesus, Ancient Tigers, Poseidon, Adam showing at Red Gate Gallery until early As Ouiary explains: “It’s not something you and Eve,’ was chosen as a selection in Best December. Aptly titled ‘Death is Going can do alone. Gallery owners believed in and American Poetry 2015. Home,’ the exhibition is, according to press understood the concept. They wanted to Commentators accused him of racism. materials, “a curated show of Tao’s work help.” They claimed he inversely used white throughout the ten years of his lifetime, “The Chinese really appreciate it. At one privilege to take advantage of affirmative where he reflects on money, fame and life.” of my shows in Shanghai, the gallery owner action. This may be true, but his success “When I arrived [15 years ago] I used my introduced me as Tao, so everyone in the may also be more telling of the quality of real name,” he told us. “One Chinese guy gallery could see me. There was a moment the poem itself. In Ouiary’s case, however, really appreciated my work so he helped of surprise. All the Chinese people were challenging perceptions was the primary me with a couple of solo shows. We had curious and asked a lot of questions.” motivation. The Tao alter ego was artistically interest but it was difficult because it was Since the big reveal, Ouiary says he’s distinct from Alexandre Ouiary, after all. mostly foreign collectors buying Chinese received a positive, if bemused, reaction. “Every foreigner in China also has a art. I started to imagine the idea of creating But seeing as there is no time limit to such . People weren’t surprised a Chinese identity and then [he] said to me, deception, why stop now? about me having a Chinese name and Yeah Alex, you should be Chinese! So I started “This is the final exhibition [under Tao because it is a real Chinese name [rather using the name and made artwork that Hongjing] because I came to the end of my than a phonetic-sounding one], it seems to reflected Chinese culture, incorporating my concept. It’s the end of an idea,” said Ouiary, go deeper into the culture. I tried to create a own view of changes that were happening.” who will continue to produce artwork under dialogue between others and myself. While the artworks that Ouiary produces his given name. “Tao Hongjing was a philosopher and a under his real name are mostly installations Throughout history, figures in the arts comic. There’s a little joke behind [it] all,” he or conceptual pieces, Tao Hongjing leaned have used pseudonyms for a multitude of concludes. more towards pop (“Classical art which reasons. Mary Anne Evans wrote as George Dominique Wong expressed a modern idea”). He proved Eliot in the hope that a male name would be popular. taken more seriously. JK Rowling published

8 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM W.W.C.D. | CITY

I have been married for two years but it’s becoming clear that my wife and I are very different people. We married after a short period of dating, due to pressure from both Q of our parents (we are both 30 years old), without really knowing each other. My wife recently told me she does not want children, ever. But before we married she gave no indication that she felt this way. We’d even spoken about our mutual plans to have a baby. I cannot accept the idea of not having a child in the future and am considering leaving my wife, even though it would devastate both of our families.

Hello friend. The standards of understand them, you will inevitably draw modern society dictate self- incorrect conclusions. A centeredness and love as the highest So, if you stay together and work toward Modern Dilemmas, standards. Therefore, if you want a divorce, building your marriage, perhaps it will Age-Old Wisdom you have already established several good take a turn for the better. You may begin to reasons. If your wife agrees, there is no understand each other. Mutual tolerance will problem or need for discussion. However, I develop, and love will grow in the meantime. prefer other solutions. Chinese tradition, and Plus, given that you’ve only been married for WHAT especially Confucian thought, emphasizes a relatively short time, your wife’s desire to marriage and family. remain childless may also change. In your situation, the existence of As you chose to ask me about whether you WOULD sufficient grounds for divorce is not the should divorce your wife, I can tell that you problem. The decision is whether it’s don’t make hasty decisions. You must be of a CONFUCIUS justified or not. So what happens if you considerate and earnest character. If you can change your perspective and consider the see the importance of trying to understand opposite situation – staying together? people’s choices, you will benefit. DO Confucius said: “Those whose strength is not enough give up halfway. You haven’t Wang Xuejun is a lecturer at Beijing Language and begun to walk yet” (Analects, 6:12). The Culture University, specializing in Chinese culture. Chinese idiom bantuerfei (to give up His most recent book is entitled Teaching Methods of halfway) also applies. Confucius emphasizes Chinese Language and Traditional Culture. Send him the importance of meeting people in the your ethical dilemma via [email protected] middle; and that if you don’t first try to

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 9 THE PURSUIT OF FEATURE | CITY

Mindfulness, Meditation and Money in Modern China

By Marianna Cerini

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 11 CITY | FEATURE

“Breathe. Be Aware. Find your purpose.” Master Wang repeats the mantra over and over again as I sit cross-legged at his Live Zen Center on a chilly Thursday evening in Beijing. On the floor in the middle of the room is a candle. Next to it, a still bowl of water. Later in the lesson, promotes self-improvement by we’ll focus on both (the water encouraging people to pay more isn’t actually still, I am to learn, attention to the present, says but constantly changing, like Fionn Wright, a lifestyle coach at the universe; the candle too, Octave Living Room, Shanghai’s represents change, as well as first holistic urban wellbeing being a token of the present). center, which opened its doors But for now, the Zen master, my in October. two fellow meditation students “Mindfulness is a way for and I have our eyes closed, people to get back in touch by a British magistrate living trying to find the ‘purpose’ that with their inner values and in colonial Sri Lanka. It is an Master Wang keeps alluding to. have a more organic approach approximate translation of I can’t speak for my class- to life. It’s a way to improve the Buddhist notion of sati, mates, but I am struggling. Far and better understand the the first of seven factors of from discovering purpose, I am, world,” he explains. “We are all enlightenment. Although not to be perfectly blunt, bored. conditioned by society, accepted exactly accurate (a more precise But while the session might norms and rules in the way we translation for sati would be not cut it for me, meditation see things. Mindfulness helps ‘memory of the present’), the is exploding in popularity. us understand what it is that definition stuck. seen as a new-age extension of Classes now come in all flavors: we’re actually seeing, what A hundred years later, as the self-help movement, which mindfulness-based stress we are actually thinking. It’s 1960s American counter- is [already] a huge industry reduction, transcendental an empowering tool – not a culture began embracing in China,” he says. “Many meditation and many more. set direction everyone should Eastern influences, mindfulness mindfulness gurus talk about From therapy couches to Silicon follow but, rather, a technique became an American brand. the competitive advantage of Valley (Google offers an internal which differs from person to In the 1970s, a molecular meditation, presenting the course called “search inside person.” biologist in New England and practice as a way to get ahead in yourself,” while eBay offices With life in today’s a long-time meditator in the life. Those teachings have little have dedicated meditation China wrought with stress, Zen Buddhist tradition, Jon to do with the Buddhist ethics, rooms), everyone seems to be competitiveness and soaring Kabat-Zinn, stripped away of course, but they resonate jumping on the Zen-wagon. individualism, it’s easy to see notions of enlightenment really well with people in In China too, meditation why so many have embraced and religious underpinnings China.” schools, courses and the practice. We all want to be from the term. Instead, he The country is indeed ‘experiences’ have mush- different. We are 20 pounds defined ‘mindfulness’ as “the infatuated with self-help, roomed, particularly in first- overweight; we are in debt; awareness that arises through although this is a relatively tier cities. But with the advent we can’t believe we slept with paying attention on purpose recent phenomenon. The of wellbeing apps, you no that person; we can’t believe in the present moment, and Chinese term for the ‘self- longer need to commit to full-on we didn’t. We want to change non-judgmentally.” He created help’ – 心灵鸡汤 (xinling jitang), classes. Since launching in 2010, ourselves, yet find it incredibly the Center for Mindfulness or ‘chicken soup for the soul’ meditation app Headspace hard to do so alone. Unlike in Medicine at the University – only emerged in the 1990s has been downloaded by three other forms of meditation, of Massachusetts medical alongside the publication of million users in 150 countries, mindfulness comes across as a school, helping the mainstream the well-known self-help book including China, at roughly viable, balanced method of self- popularization of mindfulness. series of the same name, the RMB80 a month. Adult coloring development. It’s not preachy But now, decades later, this translations of which were books – which have been linked – well, not excessively so – nor Western practice with Buddhist incredibly well-received in to easing mental pain and the does it rely on spirituality or characteristics is making its China. The subsequent rise of ability to focus on the present divine intervention. Mindfulness way back to Asia. Secular China self-help in modern Chinese – have also become a huge fad purports to be about your body is its main stronghold in the culture has been nothing short around the world. After its and mind, and offers a way to continent, and the removal of spectacular. Today, ‘chicken China release in June, adult- remove them from the stresses of religious connotations has soup’ has developed a number of coloring title Secret Garden sold of daily life. made it particularly appealing its own subgenres: motivational three million copies in three Although re-appropriated by to audiences here, argues Eric chicken soup, women’s chicken months, with Beijing dubbed the West – the US in particular C. Hendricks, a post-doctorate soup and trauma chicken soup. the “adult coloring-in capital of – the concept originates researcher in sociology at According to Hendricks, the world” by its publisher. from Buddhism. The word Peking University and Utrecht the genre forms a substantial Among the buzzwords ‘mindfulness’ was originally a University whose work focuses portion of the publishing of modern wellbeing, synonym for ‘attention’ in the on self-help. industry and mass media. ‘mindfulness’ is now one of the 16th century, but was given “Mindfulness – some aspects Although the exact size of most common. The practice its current meaning in 1881 of it in particular – could be the Chinese market for self-

12 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FEATURE | CITY

"THE BOOM OF THE SELF-HELP MOVEMENT IS A DIRECT CONSEQUENCE OF THE IDEOLOGICAL AND SPIRITUAL VACUUM LEFT BY THE END OF MAOIST SOCIALISM. PEOPLE ARE STRUGGLING TO COME TO TERMS WITH THE SHIFTS IN SOCIETY – THEIR WEALTH AND THE LACK OF A RELIGIOUS GUIDANCE”

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 13 CITY | FEATURE

help books is unknown, ‘supplementary therapy, mind coaching, life coaching and school’s chief practitioner, tells me that it’s educational books,’ of which self-help is a acupuncture, forming what the center calls a an educational and experiential approach major component, account for 34 percent of ‘Mindful Journey Program.’ to mindfulness that blends ancient Eastern the book market – roughly RMB18.2 billion Wright begins by asking me to focus on philosophy with modern sport science, a year. Chinese self-help gurus have become the first thing that comes to mind, and to “with the intent to unlock your natural brain celebrities in their own right, appearing on be aware of the physical feeling it triggers. potential.” TV and drawing huge crowds to workshops Countless visions follow – imaginary lists, I must concede she’s absolutely right and lectures, which often charge hefty boxes to tick, hypothetical situations. But, on the experiential part: the one-hour admission fees. crucially, I’m the one leading the session. session is a mix of high-intensity exercises The sector’s popularity in China is, Wright simply encourages me to talk, pay resembling yoga and martial arts, stretches Hendricks argues, a product of its time. attention and link my trains of thought to the and breathing techniques. It’s exhausting, in “The boom of the self-help movement is tension gathered around specific areas of a good way, although at times a little odd (at a direct consequence of the ideological and my body. one point we’re asked to ‘thank our knees’ spiritual vacuum left by the end of Maoist and ‘pay respect to our eyes’). But overall, an socialism,” he says. “Many Chinese people, energetic session. from lower to middle and upper classes, The educational aspect emerges once I sit are struggling to come to terms with the with Lee to discuss signing up for a batch of shifts in society – their wealth and the lack “AT ONE POINT lessons (which I don’t follow through with). of a religious guidance. This explains why “The routines we do follow five steps,” she self-help has entered the realm of both the WE’RE ASKED explains. “We first want to awaken your body. high- and low-brow, and it’s ubiquitous in Step two is to unlock your brain and help every medium. People in China nurture the TO ‘THANK OUR you work on yourself. Learning to release romantic idea that the self can be helped, negative emotions comes after that, and then because they were raised in an environment KNEES’ AND ‘PAY we teach about integrating the mind to reach that didn’t offer them such assurance.” RESPECT TO OUR your goals. This takes three to six months. Yet, mindfulness seems to offer that Finally, step five is brain mastering, which is very assurance. In its most authentic form, EYES'” a lifetime condition.” research suggests that some techniques Although I’d enjoyed the session, this can provide significant psychological and sales pitch makes me a little wary of the HSP physiological benefits. Mindfulness training approach. The five steps (and the three- to has been shown to reduce the risk of relapse This form of meditation is far from the six-month timeline) all sound a little too in recurrent depression by a third – an bliss one might imagine. Instead of clearing forced. Lee keeps talking about the “positive encouraging datum considering the World the mind, it accepts thoughts and feelings energy” that HSP will help me release. Maybe Health Organization has warned that mental without following them; letting them exist she’s right, but mostly it feels like she’s trying health problems will become the biggest while returning again and again to breathing. to sell me a package, a quick fix for eternal burden of disease in developed countries The experience is not exactly comfortable, happiness. by 2030. A recent meta-analysis of 209 but it makes me feel better: less anxious, less And this is the very problem with the studies concluded that interventions based angry. marketization of mindfulness. What has on mindfulness showed “large and clinically In the weeks that follow, Wright buying six months of classes got to do with significant effects” in treating anxiety and sporadically contacts me to check how the ancient art of meditation? And what does depression – effects, crucially, that were I am doing (in a genuine rather than going into a meditative workshop in pricey maintained through follow-up sessions. sanctimonious way). He reminds me to Lululemon gear have in common with the If practiced with real conviction, one focus on myself and the ‘list’ of things that Buddhist ethic of non-attachment to material hour of meditation, like the Zen workshop I cause me stress, which comes as a welcome goods? undertook at the Live Zen Center, can indeed prompt in my day. With time, I find myself The man who redefined the term in help reduce stress. As the Shanghai lifestyle becoming more mindful of my feelings. I am, the 1970s, Kabat-Zinn, recently warned: coach, Wright, tells me: “people just need to by nature, averse to proselytizing, but I begin “a sort of superficial ‘McMindfulness’ is find what works for them.” to see how this can be so helpful to many. taking over, which ignores the ethical And so, after the breathing, the search Mindfulness is not a catechism, an ideology, foundations of the meditative practices for Master Wang’s purpose and my failed a belief system, a technique or a philosophy. and traditions from which mindfulness has attempt to focus on the candle, I sit down It is a way of being, on your own terms, and I emerged, and divorces it from its profoundly with Wright at Octave for one-on-one can get on board with that. transformative potential.” He’s almost mindfulness practice. But whether this reflects the wider certainly right. Housed in a modern building of glass, mindfulness industry is a different matter. While I probably can’t afford to go to wood and concrete in the heart of Shanghai’s While Octave’s approach is therapeutic, Octave every week, Wright’s approach was former French Concession, the project the HSP Body and Brain Training Center, a effective because it made me self-aware in is an ambitious one. The brainchild of mindfulness ‘academy’ from a practical, simple way, devoid of any props businessman and entrepreneur Chavalit (also recently opened in Shanghai), offers – no staring at candles or thanking my body Frederick Tsao and his brother Calvin, the something altogether different. parts. But the apps, the training centers, the center offers integrated programs that focus Standing for ‘happiness,’ ‘smile’ and coloring books – they are all trends that the on physical health, mind-body alignment, ‘peace,’ HSP’s courses and workshops aim mindfulness industry has planted its flag on. thriving relationships and life purpose. Its to promote these three things through Sitting still and relaxing for a while core philosophy is to help people ‘actualize integrated exercise for body and mind. The might certainly do some good. But can’t their possibilities’ – which sounds a little method – also known as Dahn Yoga – was we just learn to be more mindful by simply too hippie for me – but the courses are started by South Korean educator Ilchee Lee considering and really thinking about the refreshingly free of new-age mumbo jumbo. in 1985 and is now found in thousands of word? Do we need tools or classes to find They span yoga, weight management, family centers worldwide. Nora Lee, the Shanghai inner happiness?

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14 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM CHINESE URBAN DICTIONARY FEATURE | CITY

euphorically happy last month, own material goods has already yet now have no money for food replaced the desire for carnal and are contemplating cutting pleasure. In fact, a famous off their hands. While the exact saying of duoshoudang is: size of the duoshoudang party “Orgasms last five seconds, but is unknown, it is estimated to the high of owning a designer Duoshoudang \Duòshŏudăng\ 剁手党 n. people who are addicted to be in the millions. Every night, handbag lasts at least five online shopping and vow repeatedly to quit but can’t. they return from work and sit in months.” front of the computer, ignoring Cutting off one’s hand may I hate all the duoshoudang in my office. I just spent three hours signing for their non-stop their estranged lovers to focus sound dramatic, but the term Kuaidi deliveries. on online shopping instead. has roots in reality. Three The duoshoudang search years ago, a woman How many packages do these diligently for coupons. They surnamed Zhang, almost cut off people get each day? keep multiple tabs open to her hand after a heated marital compare prices. They read page- row over her online shopping

One duoshoudang in marketing long reviews. They enter credit- addiction. Ms. Zhang reportedly got 34 packages yesterday. card details in a subconscious protested: “You want me to cut act of muscle memory. They my hand off? Because I will!” shop to celebrate; they shop She was later rushed to hospital I suspect she’ll have to cut her own hands off soon. to console. They believe that where doctors were able to ‘owning’ equals ‘living.’ I shop, reattach her severed thumb.

Either that or I’ll do it for her. therefore I am. Let that be a warning. The Some say the Internet was Internet is a store that never invented for porn, built on the closes. It’s always ready for our If online shopping is your vice, post-Singles'-Day December is assumption that sex is the one custom, so there will always be your rock bottom. Among the worst affected are the duoshoudang. thing that everyone craves the hands that have gotta go. Meaning ‘a party whose members vow to cut their own hands off,’ most. But that assertion no duoshoudang are the breed of online addicts who, as long as they longer rings true. The Internet By day, Mia Li is a news reporter in have hands, won’t stop clicking the ‘buy now’ button. was actually invented for Beijing; at night, she tries to turn that They are easy to identify – they’re the ones who appeared shopping, because the desire to news into standup comedy.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 15 Folio 线 STYLE RADAR LIFE & STYLE

SPOTLIGHT Jessica Rapp, founder of Thrift and flea market organizer

— For those who don’t know, what The Bookworm, I sought advice is Thrift? from my friend, jewelry de- Thrift is an ongoing project I started in the signer Yi Zhou. We rounded up spring of 2014 to bring secondhand shop- some of our friends to create ping culture to Beijing. I went to college in a small town and went thrifting almost every lot of secondhand items priced weekend because there was no other option. atthe RMB100 first one, and which under. featured But a I missed that a lot when I moved here – so Beijing has a lot of talented many of the vintage stores were too expen- independent designers too, so I sive and didn't have the surprising variety started creating more space for that thrift stores have. There were already a them. The lead-up to the mar- > few clothing swaps and markets, but I want- ed to create an ongoing system where people barely sleep the week ahead of could drop off old clothes and know that it.ket You is definitely have to make challenging sure you – I they were going somewhere special, either to charities around China or back into a Thrift get the word out so that people pop-up where someone else would make the come.haven't There overfilled are so the many space mar and- clothes theirs. kets and Saturday events now, — How does it work and how can that you really owe it to your people get involved? sellers to make sure people are LI HOLLY BY PHOTO there to see their products. at work, then I love browsing Yetang. I usu- alongside Farm to Neighbors, whose founder — Your style in a nutshell. ally come out with way more than I actually EricaI'm trying Huang to hasbuild been up awonderful weekly flea enough market I love patterns! My uniform for a while was intended to buy. to let me take part since the early stages of button-up blouses with quirky motifs and — Sanlitun or Gulou? my own pop-up shop. I'm always looking colors that I found in secondhand or vin- That's always a tough one. I started my for volunteers to help sell, organize and get tage shops around China. My closet is a bit Beijing adventure in a Gulou apartment and involved. Sales from the clothes go to differ- American-Apparel-meets-grandma. ent projects. Donations are of course always — Favorite shops in town? a special place in my heart. Now I live in great as well – just drop by any Farm to I really love Triple Major, although I can only Sanlitunthen a hutong and I flat,love soit forit will its convenience.always have But Neighbors Farmers and Flea Market at the afford to wistfully gaze at things there. Delia - Grand Summit. on Wudaoying Hutong is my number-one ing around the different vintage shops on — Was it a challenge to start up your pick for vintage because the owners are so GulouI definitely Dongdajie. miss Saturday mornings wander own monthly flea market? nice, and the shop is so well curated and Follow Jessica on Instagram at @jrappp and contact When I started The Beijing Flea Market at her on WeChat at @jmrapp19.

decorated. If I'm confined to my computer COVET R Factory x Star Wars After Luke Skywalker appeared on Rodarte’s catwalk last year, The Force began a fashion surge that’s set to keep soar- ing with the release of the saga’s latest installment this month. In Beijing, you can channel your inner geek chic with in- die label R Factory’s Star Wars-themed capsule collection of totes, shoes and accessories. Pieces span futuristic prints, starry designs, icons of characters like Darth Vader and BB-8, and clever juxtapositions of vibrant, light colors and dark leather details (get it?). Prices start at around RMB228 for a Darth Vader luggage tag and RMB398 for a C-3PO wallet. For RMB1,280 you can get yourself shoulder bag emblazoned with “I Am Your Father” and RMB3,480 will get you some seriously bold and Force-inspired ankle boots. Not exactly cheap, but for Star Wars-fan fashionistas, that should be

27 Xinsi Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区辛寺胡同 27 号 (call 87 184 060 to book an appointment), or contact R Factory on WeChat at @RFACTORY2012 just fine.

16 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM Edited by Marianna Cerini / [email protected]

MADE IN CHINA UNDER THE LENS Wacky Prints Gucci

Children in a snowstorm, sketched portraits of friends and familiar scenes of collectiv- ity spanning shuttlecock players, couples danc- ing and old folks exercising. Vina Huang’s illustra- tions are beautiful bits of everyday Beijing life. The Guangdong-born graduate of Shantou Arts and Crafts School is earlierGucci seems this year, to have right a inthing the forheart China of our – Shanghai, swanky sister specifically. city and, The last a freelance illus- month,Italian fashion started housedipping opened its toes its into first artistic restaurant territory. in the The mainland label un - trator and artist veiled the exhibition ‘No Longer / Not yet’ at Shanghai’s Minsheng whose prints we are crushing Art Museum. The show explores the elusive nature of the present hard for. From child-like pencil moment with the query: ‘What is contemporary?’ strokes to pop silhouettes, each and That, in a nutshell, translates into a series of rooms featuring every piece is vibrant and visually Gucci-inspired works by participating artists including Beijing-based compelling, telling stories that any multimedia artist Cao Fei, photographer Glen Luchford, American Beijinger can relate to. Huang’s over- sculptor Rachel Feinstein and Neo-conceptual artist Jenny Holzer. all aesthetic feels fresh and contem- The brainchild of Gucci’s Creative Director Alessandro Michele and porary, and although she works on Fashion journalist Katie Grand, the showcase exudes style, be it in - the tapestries, floorboards or the art itself. A well-planned marketing lio impossible to tire of. ploy, no doubt, but at least it’s an interesting one – which is more Illustrationscommission range too, RMB350-3,500. we find her Find portfo her than can be said for the restaurant. at markets around town or on WeChat at @ ‘No Longer / Not yet’ runs till December 16 at the Minsheng Art Museum in Shanghai. huang8511 or by phone (136 9368 3142). www.minshengart.com

OVERHEARD

“IF THIS SINGLES' DAY IS THE EXCUSE YOU’VE BEEN WAITING FOR TO SPOIL YOURSELF WITH A LITTLE ONLINE SHOPPING, THEN I MUST SAY I’M MORE THAN A LITTLE JEALOUS. HERE AT THE WHITE HOUSE, THERE ARE SO MANY FIREWALLS BLOCKING ME FROM SHOPPING ONLINE THAT NOT EVEN THE PRESIDENT WILL BE ABLE TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THOSE AMAZING DEALS YOU’LL SEE ONLINE DURING THIS HOLIDAY“

President Frank J. Underwood ushers in Singles' Day last month. One of China’s most lucrative ‘holidays’ (which is characterized by huge discounts and offers for lonely souls, or just anybody, really) was taken to a whole new level as Alibaba rang in the day with a star-studded gala at Beijing’s Water Cube. The event included a two-minute video appearance by Kevin Spacey, who plays the scheming politician Underwood (in House of Cards), in which he suggests that China’s online shoppers take advantage of the holiday to buy a range of items spanning glasses, burner phones and trench coats. He also quoted Alibaba Executive Chairman Jack Ma, say- ing: “Today is hard. Tomorrow will be worse. But the day after tomorrow will be sunshine.” The greatest ad ever aired? Possibly.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 17 Folio 线

"Minstrel " Scarf (Kang Xi's Travel) RMB 3,300

ust as the seasons pass, bringing change and new beginnings, so do the garments J motifs and hues this winter. Shifting away from the delicate, ethereal and cloud- inspiredwe wear. motifs For of Shangspring/summer, Xia, China’s the first label’s high-end current lifestyle collection brand, is thisall about means bold novelty lines and rich colors, with each design inspired by the elements that we associate with this

"Clouds" style and the brand’s long-established elegance. Scarf timeStaying of year. true The to overall Shang selection Xia’s philosophy speaks of of warmth seamlessly and integratingcomfort, without traditional sacrificing RMB 3,300 Chinese craftsmanship with contemporary details, the latest winter offerings are both modern and timeless, urban and elegant. Each piece features a contemporary aesthet- ic weaved through the time-honored elegance of Chinese style. The label’s ‘Sun & Moon’ collection includes the perfect reversible coat and poncho – a Shang Xia take on the classic Han-style shenyi gown in warm, sunny tones that will brighten up even the gloomiest of days. They are made of the highest quality cashmere and wool and, paired with the right accessories, can easily be transformed to suit any occasion, whether the sun or moon is in the sky. Among the accessories, a series of cashmere felt pouches in a plethora of earthy hues make the perfect winter bag, blend- ing attitude with evergreen sophistication. With themes deeply rooted in Asian culture, and an eye for luxurious comfort, this winter collection is perfect for fashion-savvy urbanites with style and function their top priorities. Try for yourself: wrap up in the time-tested craftsmanship of luxurious silks, wools and cashmeres of Shang Xia and head out the door: today is yours for the "Minstrel " taking. Scarf (Kang Xi's Travel) RMB 3,300

"Sculpture" "Sculpture" "Heqi" Overcoat Poncho Dress RMB 42,000 RMB 25,000 RMB 9,800 "Satis-feet" "One" "Lan Yue" Women's shoes Pants Embroidered RMB 3,600 RMB 4,800 cashmere felt handbag RMB 11,800 "Sculpture" Shawl RMB 12,000

18 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM LIFE & STYLE | ADVERTORIAL

BY VIRGINIA WERNER Find these items at Shang Xia store in SB107B, B1 China World Mall, China World Trade Center, 1 Jianguomen Waidajie, Chaoyang 建国门外大街1号中国国际贸易中心 国贸商城地下一 层第SB107B号 (6505 7358)

"Sun & Moon" Overcoat RMB 9,800

"Lan Yue" Cashmere felt Pouch RMB 8,800 WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 19 Folio 线 LIFE & STYLE | FEATUREP.O.C.

Zhao Xiaoyun | 23 The restaurant provides my accommodation. I live with PORTRAIT OF a few other kitchen boys. It’s a CHINA pretty good deal, considering I

words by Marianna Cerini get to stay in Sanlitun. photo by Holly Li

I am from Shanxi. I love living in Beijing – I came here to work as a chef and I am having a great time.

I’m in the kitchen a lot, but when I have a bit of free time, I usually like to be on my phone, talking to my friends on WeChat or playing games. I’d like to own my own business one day. I miss home, so maybe I’d open something there.

20 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM

Folio 线 LIFE & STYLE | FEATURESHOPPING

Fantasy Fanatic Le Mini Macaron Alice+Olivia x Lane Crawford Stacey handmade Dancing Granny badge, DIY gel manicure kit, RMB265. mug, RMB190. RMB88. > www.lanecrawford.com.cn > www.lanecrawford.com.cn > shop117127887.taobao.com, www. zhangliangray.com

Diptyque holiday 2015 candles, RMB950. Yazbukey > Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, Bldg 6, unit S6-19A, lipstick necklace, RMB1,960. Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里南区6号楼一层S6- > ooakselect.taobao.com 19A单元 (www.1010apothecary.com.cn) NO TIME LIKE THE

Peter Jensen x Fashionary HAY Kaleido trays RMB188. RMB99-469. > www.10corsocomo.cn PRESENT > www.sanlipop.com That’s Christmas Gift Guide

by Marianna Cerini

Charles Philip Chamberlain Lizzette slipper, RMB1,200. Jones silk tie, RMB450. > www.charlesphilipshanghai.com > www.youngchineseblood.com

22 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM Chamberlain GoPro Hero4 Silver Bruichladdich waterproof tote bag, RMB235. RMB2,998. Classic Laddie, RMB520. > www.youngchineseblood.com > www.apple.com.cn > www.aiwhisky.com

Slice up the pumpkin pie. Pour the mulled wine. Whip up that boozy eggnog you know you love. It’s Christmas time again. Which also means it’s gift season. But what to buy the Beijinger who has everything? Enter our yearly gift guide. Whether you're shopping on a budget or want to splurge, we’ve put together enough ideas to cover everyone on your list – nerds, hipsters, fashionistas, moms, you name it. We’ve made your Christmas shopping a total cinch, so you’re welcome. Now, let’s get some more of that mulled wine…

BB-8 App enabled droid Fornasetti Penguin RMB1,198. teapot, RMB5,800. passport holder, RMB128. > www.apple.com.cn > www.10corsocomo.cn > www.penguin.com.cn, boogend. world.taobao.com

Secret Garden TCA coloring book, RMB42. coasters, RMB30 each (choose from > world.tmall.com/item/ over 38 designs). > www.ThisCityArt.com

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 23 Folio 线 LIFE & STYLE | FEATUREARRIVALS

SCENE & HEARD

words by Marianna Cerini

1

1 GUO PEI X MAC 2 LULULEMON ATHLETICA 3 RECHENBERG Pair one of China’s most esteemed haute For devoted yogis, Lululemon is not just a Inspired by a recent trip to the Tibetan couturiers with one of world’s hippest, yoga-inspired clothing brand – it’s a lifestyle. plateau, Kathrin von Rechenberg’s autumn/ freshest and boldest makeup companies Since launching in 1998, the company has winter collection for her eponymous label and you get a pretty rad collaboration like come to encompass a holistic, community speaks of snow-capped mountains and long- Guo Pei x Mac. Inspired by what Pei has approach to head-stances and meditation, lost traditions. Garments are all about loose called her “garden of the soul,” the Beijing setting up free yoga classes, workshops shapes, warmth and comfort. They come in fashion doyenne has created a 16-piece line and showrooms around the globe. The luxuriously soft fabrics such as cashmere, of gorgeous cosmetics that form an excellent label’s first Beijing showroom expands the Merino wool, silk, woolen jersey, boiled wool collector’s edition. The overall palette shows mission ever further. An airy, sleek space and, perhaps most interestingly, handmade some unusual hues, chosen by the designer on top of the Moncler shop in Sanlitun felt made from Yak hair. The line’s general as a reminder of “the universe and our Taikoo Li North, the venture has so far been tone is muted and earthy, its colors drawn world,” but that shouldn’t be surprising given operating on limited opening hours, putting from a palette with black at its base. It Pei’s aesthetic grandeur. The range includes on events around town to raise awareness encompasses mustard, rust, iron grey, the quads of eye shadow in deep blues and about yoga, wellbeing and, of course, the orangey-reds of Tibetan coral, and of course honeyed neutrals; rich lipsticks in creamy venture’s hip (though pricey) fitness gear. the soft grey-beige of natural Yak. Items shades of pink and coral, bright red and Once the showroom officially opens this span long coats, and jackets showing close- luscious nude; plus eyeliners, blushes and month, its main clothing collections will be fitting, cozy necklines. Wide-legged trousers powders in jewel tones punctuated by deep on display alongside yoga, barre and pilates worn just above the ankle are paired with graphite. What really makes this cooperation sessions. As an extra perk for China-based blouses made of silk organza and tea- stand out, however, is its presentation: each fans, Lululemon is offering ‘#thesweatlife silk with voluminous results. Rechenberg item is housed in fabric-wrapped packaging passport’ – a booklet including 22 successfully combines raglan with spiral- (hand-sketched by Pei herself) and comes complimentary yoga lessons taught by cut, leg-of-mutton sleeves for a neatly fitted, shrouded in exotic gold and yellow floral Lululemon ambassadors in studios around draped look that appears both comfortable prints. Beautiful and exquisitely crafted, Beijing – until December 31. The initiative and practical. RMB2,900-30,000. this line may surpass your wildest beauty was conceived to celebrate the company’s Xinyuanxili Dongjie (yard behind building 12), dreams. Prices range from RMB400 for recent debut on Tmall – which is exactly Chaoyang 朝阳区新源西里东街 , 12 号楼后面 (6463 lipsticks to RMB780 for eye shadows. where you’ll find the gear if you don’t fancy 1788, www.rechenberg.cn) www.maccosmetics.com.cn a trip to Sanlitun. Sanlitun Taikoo Li North, N2-33, Tower N2, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区是哪里屯路 11 号 2 楼三里屯太古 里南区 N2-33 3

2

24 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM www.pageonegroup.com Shop LG50, Indigo, No.18 Jiuxianqiao Road, Chaoyang - (+86 10) 8426 0408 weibo.com/pageonechina Shop Units S2-14a-b,No.19 Sanlitun Road Chaoyang - (+86 10) 6417 6626 site.douban.com/pageone Shop 3B201, Zone 3, China World Mall, No.1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang - (+86 10) 8535 1055

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 25 COLLAGE

WHAT’S NEW DRUMROLL Julia Holter

Praised for his refusal to follow literary trends, -based Diao Dou is widely regarded as one of China’s leading satirists. Now his work is being translated into English for the first time by acclaimed British publishers Comma Press. Diao’s short story collection, Points of Origin, is available on Amazon, while the Chinese-language version isn’t set for publication until next year. PHOTO BY TONJE THILESEN TONJE BY PHOTO The Chengdu-born, Beijing-based Ahead of her show at Modernsky Lab, we and then eventually started recording myself. troubadour Uncle Hu impresses with speak to the LA-based singer-songwriter So maybe there is something in the fact that his debut disc, When Memories Collide. who has enchanted critics and fans alike with I studied a bit in the classical tradition, even The melancholic performer conjures up a sound that blurs the boundaries between though I never felt fully a part of it. something reminiscent of Elliot Smith with indie, composition and electronic music. — You’re playing a classical concert online hit ‘Without Exception,’ which turns — How did you feel about the critical hall in Shanghai and then a rock club in the lyric “chasing greed and misery” into a praise for your new album Have You In My Beijing. Which do you think you’ll prefer? hook. But fear not: the 60s-inspired album Wilderness? I like both types of venues. Sometimes a isn’t overly somber. Available at site.douban. I’m always happy if people enjoy my records. classical venue or museum venue may be com/unclehu. This album is different because it’s the first nice because it’s very professional and time I’ve worked within a somewhat familiar hospitable; you feel well-treated. But I also musical tradition – ballads. like the energy of a small, crowded bar show, — Since your Euripides-inspired because people are just excited. It feels raw. debut, your records have been known — What are your plans following the for their literary influences. What were China tour? the inspirations behind Have You in My I just finished a film score for a boxing movie Wilderness? called Bleed For This, and I’m really excited Mostly just other music. But for the song about that. I’m going to Australia after Asia, ‘Lucette Stranded on the Island’ I was and then coming back home to take a break inspired by a character in a short story by before going on tour again next year. Superheroes and humans co-exist in the Colette called Chance Acquaintances. And — Is there any music you’re into that Marvel-affiliated series Powers. Sharlto ‘How Long?’ was inspired by Christopher might surprise your fans? Copley (District 9) stars as a superhero- Isherwood’s characters in The Berlin Stories. To be honest, I don’t think anything I like turned-mortal detective devoted to — Musically, you’ve been described as would be particularly surprising or shocking. maintaining peace between the two sides. In a mix of pop, classical and avant-garde. I like so many different things. I like Hall & doing so, he must take on villains like Eddie Think that’s accurate? Oates. Izzard’s power-absorbing ‘Big Bad’ Wolfe. I never consciously combine genres and I Friday Dec 4, 9pm-late; RMB100-150; Modernsky Lab, The series – originally only available through am not sure why people associate my music 5-108, Floor B1, Building D, Galaxy SOHO, Dongcheng the PlayStation Network – is now streamable with classical. I did start writing music in 东城区朝阳门银河SOHO D座B1层5-108 (5773 3620, at iqiyi.com. traditional music school for other players www.modernsky.com)

26 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM CANVASSED Xie Nanxing, ‘untitled : 3 ב

Xie Nanxing challenges tradition and the seemingly set rules of art education. His eighth solo exhibition is no exception and promises to be as experimental and evolutionary as the artist himself. Xie’s interest in psychology is clear – he paints a narrative urging the observer to see beyond the canvas. Just look closer. Tue-Sun, 11am-6.30pm, until February 6; Galerie Urs Meile, 104 Caochangdi, Cuigezhuang, Chaoyang 朝阳区草场地104号(6433 3393, www. galerieursmeile.com)

HAO BU HAO

Hao Bu Hao Despite doubling its net losses in Luke Skywalker, Hans Solo the summer, streaming service and friends will invade movie Youku Tudou was fully acquired screens across Europe, North by Alibaba in a deal worth America and in mid- an estimated USD3.7bil. The December, but China will have takeover is expected to conclude to wait until next year. Star in the first quarter of 2016 and Wars: The Force Awakens wasn’t reflects Alibaba’s ambitions in among the final 34 foreign films home entertainment, having to be approved for theaters in announced the Netflix-like 2015, despite an impressive subscription video service, publicity stunt in October that Tmall Box Office (TBO), earlier featured storm troopers taking this year. over the Great Wall. Sad, we are.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 27 Folio 线 ARTS | FEATURE

WUHAN’S NEW WAVE Chinese Football Leading the City’s Next Generation

by Andrew Chin

Written into Mainland music lore as China’s original punk capital, “By setting that limit of guitar, bass and drums, we’re constantly Wuhan has produced a new crop of bands that are redefining the finding ways to break through and make something interesting,” he city’s sound. Leading the pack is self-described emo group Chinese says of the band’s sound. Football, whose serene sound may seem to contradict the in-your- Building buzz through regular shows at Wuhan’s legendary VOX face spirit of legendary forebears like SMZB and AV Okubo. But singer Livehouse, Chinese Football released their eponymous debut through and guitarist Xu Bo promises that the band carries on Wuhan’s fiery the venue’s record label imprint, Wild, in September. legacy. “We’re very happy and even a little surprised by the response,” Xu “When playing live, we try to keep the original tension of punk says. “On Bandcamp, we’re getting positive comments every day from music,” he says. “More importantly, we operate with a DIY attitude.” all over the world. Even the criticisms have been gratifying because it Comprised of veterans of the city’s music scene, Chinese Football means someone is carefully listening and thinking about the music.” formed four years ago. Fuelled by the chemistry between Xu and Lyrically inspired by “the fantasy of youth and its frustration,” Xu guitarist Wang Bo, the band’s lineup was completed with the arrival promises that the band will remain young at heart, despite all having of bassist Li San and drummer Xiao Chao. day jobs and entering their 30s. Citing late 1990s emo pioneers like Jimmy Eat World, Death Cab He uses the rivalry between Herman and Max in the 1998 film for Cutie, The Get Up Kids and American Football (no relation) as Rushmore to make his point, before concluding: “Being young has inspiration, Chinese Football specialize in a potent guitar-bass-driven nothing to do with age. I feel like I’m 20 when I perform.” wistful indie-rock sound. Much like The White Stripes, Xu finds power █ in sticking to the basics. Fri Dec 4, 9-11.30pm; RMB50-60; School Bar (see Listings for details)

“When playing live, we try to keep the original tension of punk music”

28 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FEATURE | ARTS

“ Our generation was the first to have computers before we had guitars” PHOTO BY BALDUR KRISTJANSSON BALDUR BY PHOTO TIP OF THE ICELAND The Inescapable Nordic Charm of Experimental Band múm by Andrew Chin

Experimental group múm have a sound that could only have which was performed by the MDR Orchestra in Leipzig. come from Iceland. Like Björk, they mix electronic beats with “These are our favorite projects,” Smárason explains. “They’re an assortment of instruments. Like Sigur Rós, they craft beatific, complete luxuries that we get to do. We are happy whenever we get childlike sounds. But founding member Örvar Þóreyjarson Smárason to explore a completely different world, whether it’s theater, film or seems less able to place their style. orchestras.” “I can hear what the múm sound is, but I couldn’t put it into words,” The band appear as comfortable working with the Polish Radio he admits during a break from recording the band’s seventh album. Choir as they are with Australian pop goddess Kylie Minogue. This Rather than anything intrinsically Icelandic, he instead attributes flexibility is the key to múm’s longevity, Smárason claims. the “múm sound” to his musical partnership with Gunnar Örn Tynes, “One of the most important things about staying together this long who he met at his 18th birthday party. is keeping it loose and realizing that time will always move on, no “Gunnar and I had been making electronic music since we were matter what,” he says. “Most bands in Iceland are very relaxed on who children and were of the first generation that had computers before the members in each band are. You can leave a band and someone we had guitars,” he says. “When we were playing all this rock music else can step in. You can be in many different bands with different with guitars in an indie band called Andhéri, we never really saw it styles.” any differently from our computer music. We’ve always mixed these So while Smárason and Tynes have been the band’s constant things up so much that there is no way to distinguish.” members, múm currently boasts a powerful eight-person lineup. By the time their masterful debut Yesterday Was Dramatic – Today Animal Collective’s touring cellist Hildur Guðnadóttir, Edea is OK was released in 2000, Smárason and Tynes had crafted their percussionist Samuli Kosminen and respected singer-songwriter Ólöf own distinct sonic world. Five albums later, múm have become one of Arnalds feature among their ranks. Iceland’s most enduring musical exports, with Smárason describing Noting that the band’s live set-up has “evolved over time with 2013’s Smilewound as “probably our most universally liked album us,” Smárason promises that their Beijing show will dip into múm’s yet.” The disc led to legendary producer Brian Eno handpicking the immense discography. band to perform at this year’s Punkt Festival in . “It’s pretty random though. The reasons we play each of these But múm have achieved much else in the two decades since songs are often under-understandable to us,” he concludes, before forming. Recent projects have included an alternative soundtrack admitting that he just made up the word. to , work with Japanese pop singers Aco and Battleship Potemkin █ Tomoyo, and a joint composition with German pianist Huschka, Sat Dec 19, 9-11.30pm; RMB220-260; Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 29 Folio 线 ARTS | FEATURE

words by Dominique Wong photos by Holly Li A HARD DAY’S NIGHT The Highs and Lows of Life in a Filipino Cover Band FEATURE | ARTS

Filipino cover bands have become an ingrained part of bars worldwide, from Middle Eastern hotel lounges and luxury Pacific cruise liners, to upscale restaurants and salty pubs. Chancing upon one in a Beijing bar may no longer come as a surprise. But what is surprising, is that some of the musicians performing in these bands are extremely talented. At the German brauhaus Drei Kronen 1308, band- in-residence Eroica take to the stage. Donning bright The Highs and Lows of Life dresses, skyscraper-high heels, vests and caps (the latter two worn exclusively by bandleader, keytarist and former music professor Pol), the three singers wear in a Filipino Cover Band warm smiles and dance expressively. The band welcome new customers and bid farewell to those leaving. ‘Happy birthday’ is sung three times (in Chinese). It’s Saturday night and the Gongti bar is bustling. Friends chatter over sausages and sauerkraut, while a long table of guests sat in front of the slightly elevated stage down pint after pint. At one point, a man from the long table spontaneously jumps onto the stage and dances enthusiastically – if not rhythmically – to the beat. While this is a common and accepted occurrence, the band draw a line at guest singers, explains Yeng, who at 22 is the youngest vocalist of Eroica. “We’re the only ones singing. There’s no problem with guest dancers as long as there’s no touching. Sometimes we’ll grab their hands [to dance]. There are strategies,” she says. The crowd is largely subdued but appreciative, praising the band in person between sets. Pol tells us that their repertoire is quite limited but a quick glance at their catalog suggests otherwise. Hundreds of titles are listed under genres including RnB, Slow, Oldies (both Fast and Slow), Retro, Jazz, Rock, Foreign, plus more. As the night progresses they play ‘Love Me Like You Do’ and ‘Country Roads’ as well as a spirited version of ‘Xiao Pingguo’. They even perform a Spanish cover, requested by two Argentineans, who share their thanks afterwards (“Amazing. I was crying. Your Spanish is amazing! Gracias, gracias,” they say, taking one of the singer’s hands into their own). Generally, the band choose songs to suit their crowd. “If I see young people, then I go for more popular songs, but when I see middle-aged people, it’s 80s songs,” Pol says. “Americans love blues. It’s quite easy to please Japanese or Chinese. The Chinese are happy people.” The band members personally favor RnB but are open to everything. “Variety,” offers Jen, one of the three

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 31 Folio 线 ARTS | FEATURE

singers (and Pol’s wife), before Yeng adds: Their musicality seems innate, which may at DK1308, for a year, though Pol and Jen “If the people enjoy our songs, we are very stem from the country’s deep-rooted culture have performed together since 2003 in The happy.” of valuing family and community, says Yeng. Maldives, Japan, Malaysia and Singapore, The ubiquity of Filipino cover bands may “I inherited my musical talent from my among other countries. Then, last year, mean that their wide-ranging musical skills, parents,” she says. (“Same in my family too!” Pol recruited Yeng and Tin to the band. “I and heartfelt performances of ‘Bette Davis chimes Tin, the fourth member of the band.) decided to add more singers, to make the Eyes,’ are taken for granted by (often) drunk “Even when you’re a young child, you can performance alive,” Pol says. patrons. But it is a lack of opportunity, rather sing and dance. I also play guitar, drums and Having never traveled overseas and only than of talent, that forces musicians from keyboard – I play for my church band.” recently finishing her studies in hotel and the Philippines, the band explain as they sip Aside from Tin, all of the band’s members restaurant management, Yeng was hesitant warm milk and coffee between sets. regularly attend church on Sundays. to join: “At first I ignored their message,” she “In the Philippines there are no Adherence to religion in the Philippines laughs. “But I chose to follow my passion.” opportunities – you can’t earn as much (where over 90 percent of the country Eroica are tireless performers, working six money,” says Jen. identifies as Christian) plays a major part in nights a week, with Chinese New Year a sole “I would earn 150 US dollars a month as shaping the country’s music culture: “That’s holiday (“except for the [military] parade – a music professor [in the Philippines]” Pol where I started actually, at church,” Jen we had that off”). At the end of each night, continues. “I told myself I couldn’t do it any recalls. around 1am, the quartet go home to their longer, so I decided to work abroad. This was From colonial times until now, Filipino shared house and cook dinner together. in 1995.” music has also been influenced by the “We eat and then we are chatting, chatting, The Philippines has a population of country’s exposure to many different chatting!” says Jen. “By then it’s probably 4 about 100 million people, and while cultures. Traditional Spanish instruments or 5am.” unemployment rates are relatively low, so were popular in the past but, despite a During downtime the band enjoy are wages (when adjusted for purchasing current Spanish-influence revival, it is shopping, watching movies, eating and power, an average salary in the Philippines American pop culture, proliferated during socializing with other Filipinos in Beijing. is less than half that of China). So laboring the American occupation, which firmly But their busy schedule means there is abroad in low-skill, high-demand positions cemented itself in Filipinos’ musical limited time to explore, and it is uncertain has become an attractive option for many, consciousness. More recently, Korean pop how long the band will remain in the capital. with roughly 12 million Filipinos living has dominated, explains Yeng. After a three-month probationary period, overseas. “Videoke [karaoke] is everywhere in contracts with bars typically roll over every Traditionally this has meant construction, the Philippines. Outside houses there’s a six months. “We have a contract but it ends hospitality and service staff, but there machine. All you have to do is drop a coin in [soon]. We still don’t know if they’re going are also tens of thousands of Filipinos and then sing, with everybody around you to [continue to] hire us,” Jen explains. “[The performing as singers and musicians every watching.” notice period] is one month in advance. But night, all around the world. Eroica have been performing in Beijing, we're still enjoying it here. Not all bands

32 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FEATURE | ARTS

Previous page: Robinson, singer of Maggie's Band, performs during a rehearsal Left: Eroica performs at DK1308 Right: Maggie's Band members (clockwise from immediate right) Robinson, Wowie, Jimboi and Jun Bottom right: Eroica vo- calists Tin, Yeng and Jen freshen up between sets

“I would earn 150 US dollars a month as a music professor in the Philippines. I told myself I couldn't do it any longer. I decided to work abroad”

have this kind of opportunity,” Pol adds. As long as the contract sticks, the show goes on. And while music is their passion, the band harbor other dreams. Apart from Pol, Eroica’s members come from distinctly non-musical professional backgrounds. Tin studied education, while Jen worked as a medical technologist. “Maybe after a few years we won’t want to sing anymore and will want to settle down, marry, and pursue our [studied] professions.” For now, though, they are satisfied and hopeful. “We are very happy and getting better and better every day. I’m going to be honest with you, this group isn’t really that good,” Pol says humbly. “But we get the attention of the crowd when we sing, and that’s one of the best things about us.” While the quality may vary between Beijing’s Filipino cover bands, Yeng describes their relationship as one of “friendly competition – we each have our own specialties.” As Eroica start their next set at DK1308, another band have taken to the stage just over a kilometer south, where the red neon sign of Maggie’s bar cuts through the shadows of Ritan Park.

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Maggie’s isn’t the sort of place you just stumble upon. Nestled them strict rehearsals,” he says. “People don’t realize, but it’s quite between embassies and downtown Beijing, the bar is, on any given difficult managing a band. [Maggie’s Band] are cooperative, respectful night, home to scores of business – anybody and everybody looking and have a good attitude, so they’re pretty good.” for a good night. Regulars are warmly greeted and taken care of by The band members say they are enjoying Maggie’s and life in the staff. Couples converse boisterously while men and women, often Beijing, although the environment has proved challenging at times (“It alone, line the circular bar, a mountain of liquor bottles shining from was very difficult to communicate with [Chinese] people early on. We its center. use sign language and a calculator, always the calculator”). The soundtrack is provided by a six-piece Filipino band, called “The weather has been quite different because in the Philippines – rather unimaginatively – Maggie’s Band. It consists of Jimboi there is no winter,” says Jimboi. (band leader, keyboard), Jun (bass), Wowie (guitar), Weng (drums), “I already have a RoboCop look: big jacket, pants and gloves. I’m Robinson (vocals) and Anne (vocals). The band have only been prepared,” continues Weng, as everyone bursts into laughter. playing together for six months but if our visit on a Thursday night, This happens a lot. Despite their serious demeanor, the group (and later to a rehearsal session) is any indication, they are killing constantly breaks into their mother tongue, giggle and crack inside it. It helps that Jimboi, Weng and Wowie are old band mates from jokes. So what about performing makes them happiest? “When the a prior set-up, and that – apart from Anne, who was enrolled in crowd is happy,” Anne shares. “When people give us compliments – community college – the band members all have professional musical or tips,” Jimboi offers (cue another eruption of laughter). backgrounds. Taking a more serious tone, the conversation turns to home. Every “We’re the only full live Filipino band in Beijing, so there’s no member has left a partner or family back in the Philippines. pressure [to compete],” Anne tells us during rehearsal. “It’s our “It’s very hard to be separated from our families but we sacrifice advantage,” Jimboi adds. ourselves because our salary is much better here,” Wowie says softly. Indeed, it’s all business on stage, with the members clearly at one “This time it’s not as hard to communicate with family because we with their instruments (or in the case of Robinson and Anne, their have WeChat.” voices). During a simple rehearsal of a new cover, ‘Iris’ by the Goo “Back in 2000, all I could do was write letters,” adds Robinson. “It Goo Dolls, we are transported. It’s powerful stuff. took a long time and sometimes they came late, weeks or months,” The exact number of Filipino bands in Beijing is unknown, but As the band’s contract allows holidays twice a year, they all plan the owner and manager of Maggie’s, Garry, suggests it’s “about four to make a trip home during the upcoming Chinese New Year. While or five.” Although none of the musicians I speak to can offer a more visibly excited at the prospect, the band aren’t slacking. They, like certain figure, Garry’s estimate seems conservative. But to his credit, Eroica, play six nights a week, beginning late (10.30pm or 10.45pm), he has been in the business for over 15 years, meaning he knows with four sets apiece. A hard day’s night, then. But as Robinson is talent when he sees it. quick to point out: “The bottom line is, if you’re enjoying your work, “When I pick a band, I watch each person’s video carefully and give you cannot feel tired.”

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34 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FEATUREBOOKS | ARTS

YEAR OF THE GOOSE Carly J. Hallman’s Debut Novel Depicts an Absurd Vision of Modern China

by Oscar Holland

The harshest critics of foreign writers in China are usually other becomes more fluid and nuanced. The book’s second section is foreign writers in China. They are more sensitive to China cliches. dedicated to the likable Wang Xilai, a balding hair-extension mogul They dislike the explanations required to make writing accessible implicated in a murder case. And from here onward, Hallman’s casual to a general audience overseas. They recoil at the hint of stereotype, style (and the humor of petulant characters) sits more comfortably. even if it draws on something they observe as commonplace. Perhaps some of the references are still too easy (a grand banquet As such, novels and memoirs from China-based authors (especially serves birds nest soup and “silver platters of tiger meat cooked young ones and those on small or independent publishers) can with the fur still attached”). But Hallman paints an increasingly and attract disdain from local critics. To my shame, it was perhaps this endearingly absurd vision of modern China. Quite where parody very fear that allowed a preview copy of Carly J. Hallman’s debut becomes satire is unclear. But given that the actual offspring of novel, Year of the Goose, to sink deep into the recesses of my inbox. China’s richest man, Wang Sicong, gave his dog an Apple Watch Were the red and gold design not so appealing, I could make a (see page 41), these blurred boundaries exist beyond the realm of hackneyed reflection on judging books by their covers. literature. But then Hallman entered That’s Beijing’s Halloween flash-fiction As the story grows more surreal, it becomes more compelling competition. Her submission, The Roast Duck Killer, was a clear-cut in turn. Some of the book’s finest flourishes come in its oddest winner – a darkly comic tale of a murderer exhibiting victims like moments: the diary of Papa Hui’s on-the-run goose, and an errant Peking Ducks. And so, with my preview PDF retrieved, I shall atone Buddhist monk reincarnated in the body of a turtle. for my quick judgment. Because while Year of the Goose is not without Hallman’s style is direct, youthful and, at times, reminiscent of its faults, it is a charming and, at times, laugh-out-loud read. crude teen lit (“aren’t you supposed to come back as something The novel opens with the travails of Kelly Hui, daughter of higher?” the turtle is asked. “Like something not used in, uh, boner China’s richest man, Papa Hui, and heiress to his Bashful Goose soup?”). Too often she relies on strings of questions to convey Snack Company. China-watchers’ cliche-sensors will immediately characters’ thoughts, and her colloquialisms can feel at odds with tingle as she navigates the obese children’s fat camp in which the the characters playing them out. People ‘plop’ down into seats too book’s opening section is set. The officials are of course corrupt, the regularly; things happen ‘left, right and center’; and perhaps I’m buildings are of course unfinished, and the acne-ridden singleton being old-fashioned, but there is something a little jarring about who can’t grow a beard of course laments his mother’s pressure over seeing terms like ‘humble-brag’ and ‘craptastic’ in print. marriage. Kelly herself is a spoiled American-educated princess who Nonetheless, Year of the Goose is a credible debut. Even if world- yearns for the respect and attention of her tycoon father, and her weary China heads don’t get it, there will be plenty who do. tedious ‘whatever’ attitude permeates the opening section. █ But persist and the story becomes distinctly more imaginative. Year of the Goose is published in print and e-book on Unnamed Press from As the focus moves to other, less one-dimensional characters (all December 8. Available from Amazon and Barnes & Noble are somehow linked to Papa Hui’s snack empire), Hallman’s writing

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 35 Folio 线 ARTS | FEATURE

KING OF THE GLAMBERTS Adam Lambert on Fans, Fame and Freddie Mercury

By Zoey Zha, image by David Roemer

From struggling in musical theater to — Why was this the right time to make — What was it like touring with Queen? rocking 200,000 people with Queen, Adam this change? They are so kind to me and treat me like a Lambert has had a wild ride. Since finishing It’s definitely a reflection about where family member. When I got the invitation I second in the 2009 edition of American Idol, I am right now. I’ve been through more wasn’t sure [at first] – I wasn’t going to turn the singer has transcended reality show relationships and career ups and downs. It down this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, fame thanks to his powerful vocals and got to a certain point where I feel I’m grown but I was concerned about their fans’ signature glam-rock sound. As he returns up and more settled with myself. Hopefully, reaction. I didn’t know if they would accept to China for a January tour, we caught up my songs reflect that. me singing these songs but I also hoped with the star in Beijing to chat about his new — Has your ‘Glamberts’ fanbase that I could pull this off. Now four years album, filling in for Freddie Mercury and OG changed over your career? later, I feel like we finally did it and it’s still ‘Glamberts.’ I’m always surprised. I’ve got a group of die- happening as an ongoing collaboration. It’s — How do you feel about your new hard fans, which is a very small group of been amazing to tour and meet fans you album, The Original High? women who would follow all my concerts might not be able to see on other occasions. I’m really proud of it. I like the way it in the US. We call them the OG Glamberts. — Did you worry about being sounds, I love the messages in the songs [But] I’ve seen young girls and even dads, compared with Freddie Mercury? and the response my fans are giving me on especially on Queen’s tour. I see gay men I did at the beginning. But then I put in a it. It’s a very cohesive album. As a singer, I in their 20s, who I call sisters. That’s a nice lot of thought and time to figure out how to discovered the possibilities of my vocals. element to see because they are my peers perform these songs as myself, and still pay — The album cover is probably your and where I come from. tribute to Freddie. Now, I don’t think about it most stark and serious-looking to date. — From reality show contestant to anymore. Was that the idea behind the album? internationally renowned pop star, what — What’s your next project? There is definitely an idea of stripping back have you gained and lost in this process? I don’t know. I think maintaining this career the concepts and excess that I’ve done in the There is no handbook to teach you how to is the most challenging part, especially since past for something more revealing. I wanted deal with all the sudden notoriety. It’s a pop music is so fickle. But doing TV or a film it to be more grounded and classic. The learning process, but an exciting one. I had first album cover was like Lisa Frank – very been working as a musical theater singer colorful, sort of flamboyant weird. I loved it and playing in a garage band in Los Angeles Sunwould Jan be 3, 8pm;fun. █RMB480-980; Beijing Exhibition because that was what I was experiencing for 10 years and still getting nowhere. Theater, 135 Xizhimenwai Dajie, Xicheng 西城区西直 at that time. But now, I’m like, ‘let’s go the Coming from American Idol changed my 门外大街135号 (400 610 3721, en.damai.cn) other way’ because the music is more real, career suddenly. It was a shortcut to success more melancholy and more moody. for me.

36 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FEATURE | ARTS

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 37 BELLY BUTTON LICENSEDSTREAMING TOOVER-HYPED CHINA’S CHALLENGE BLOW ME, MUSIC MAINLAND MY SELFIES MATT DAMON’S THE WANG PONYTAILUPMOVIESYEAR BOX SICONGAND I FEWER SUBSCRIBERS WILL LIU MORE BOX OFFICE REGULATION STREAMING OPTIONS KEEP PAYINGUP CIXIN OFFICEDUANG EMMANUEL MUDIAY THE ‘MAGIC BUNNY’ NING ZETAO’S LIU马克·扎克伯格 BROTHER ORANGE LIU HONG ABS XIANG Mǎkè zhā kè bó gé PEOPLE’S LOVE FOR DAILY WALKSGIVESBIRTH (RMRBWX) TO GOLD USAIN BOLT GETS CHINA BAREDBIG FLOWER CHEN PENBIN TAKEN OUT UBER BY A SEGWAY BUTIS IT “APPLE (DACIHUA258) RUNSMARATHONS IS COMEDY 100DING JUNHUI FIGURE IN 100 SHANGHAI ROSE HITLER.GIF(GIFAAA) SHARKSCHINA’S CARD BABY DAYS GOLD MICRO CARD GUO CHUANWOMEN’S ? ” (KAWA01) VOLLEYBALL TEAM RELATIVELY FM93, ZHANGANGELABABY POOR SPEAKING THE VOICE OF RADIO THE AND SO DOES JACK MA( (HIFM93) XINYU MET (EVERYBODY ELSE) CCTV DIGS CHINA CHINESE GOVERNMENT ) NEWS HU BING THAT SWIPES RIGHT ON STARTUPS (CCTVNEWSCENTER) CHINA GUO VOGUE TURNS10 IN SPROUTS, FLOWERS PEI AND OTHER STORIESDRESSREVIEW BELLY BUTTON LICENSEDSTREAMING TOOVER-HYPED CHINA’S CHALLENGE BLOW ME, MUSIC MAINLAND MY SELFIES MATT DAMON’S THE WANG PONYTAILUPMOVIESYEAR BOX SICONGAND I FEWER SUBSCRIBERS WILL LIU MORE BOX OFFICE REGULATION STREAMING OPTIONS KEEP PAYINGUP CIXIN OFFICEDUANG EMMANUEL MUDIAY THE ‘MAGIC BUNNY’ NING ZETAO’S LIU马克·扎克伯格 BROTHER ORANGE LIU HONG ABS XIANG Mǎkè zhā kè bó gé LI NA PEOPLE’S WALKSGIVES LOVE FOR DAILY BIRTH f a week is a(RMRBWX) long time in USAIN BOLT GETS politics, then imagine how BIG TO GOLD CHINAlong a year in theBARED world’s FLOWER UBER most-populous country is. CHEN PENBIN TAKEN OUT ISuch is the challenge(DACIHUA258) of sum- IS IT “APPLEming up China’s 2015 in just BY A SEGWAY BUT 12 pages. RUNS This wasIS a year – like many MARATHONS1 00 before it – where celebsCOMEDY rose DING JUNHUI and fell, peculiar stickers FIGURE swept WeChat, and utterly IN 100 SHANGHAI ROSE HITLER.pointless world records wereGIF (GIFAAA) CHINA’S smashed. Tigers and flies fell DAYS SHARKS to the drive on corruption, theCARD BABY GOLD stock market crashed (and MICRO CARD then got back on its feet, kind WOMEN’S of) and then most of” China’s (KAWA01) GUO CHUAN ? military paraded through the VOLLEYBALL TEAM middle of Beijing as we all took a holiday. In sum,RELATIVELY a lot hap- FM93, pened, and this humbleSPEAKING round- THE VOICE ZHANGANGELABABY up cannot claim to be authori- POORtative. We can only hope that it OF RADIO is mildly entertaining. (HIFM93) THE AND SO DOES JACK MAAs such, this( is perhaps an XINYU (EVERYBODY ELSE) act of self-indulgence; just a MET collection of things that cap- CCTV DIGS CHINA CHINESE GOVERNMENTtured our imaginations over ) NEWS HU BING the year. But to lend some (CCTVNEWSCENTER) THAT SWIPES RIGHTcredibility, we’veON also STARTUPS spoken to experts from across the five CHINA GUO categories that we have arbi- trarily divided the year into – TURNS arts, sport, fashion, technol- VOGUE IN ogy and online. 10 They’ve all thrown in some 2016 predictions as well, so SPROUTS, FLOWERS PEI we’ll be sure to hold them to AND OTHER STORIESDRESSREVIEW account this time next year. ew memes, viral videos and gifs appear so quickly that the very concept of a calendar year seems as archaic as pre-Weibo social media. So summarizing a year in online phenomena can only ever be – just like most of the Internet – an arbitrary collection of funny Nthings. This year was fundamentally no different from the one preceding it, though some of the details changed. ‘APEC Blue’ became ‘Winter Olympics Blue,’ while praise for the Facebook CEO’s Mandarin became scorn for the Xiaomi CEO’s English. Viral trends are fleeting and sure to be forgotten. But for one more time this year: Enjoy, and instantly forget.

LIZ

AuthorCARTER and journalist

he year 2015 wasn’t just a big year for into everyday life is also a big trend. It's definitely Chinese social media – it was also a big happening faster in places like Beijing than, say, year for Liz Carter. The author, journalist D.C. and former Tea Leaf Nation editor published herT book Let 100 Voices Speak: How the Internet WAS 2015 THE YEAR THAT WECHAT is Transforming China and Changing Everything FINALLY OVERTOOK WEIBO? this year, which we described in our July issue Weibo is dead. Now it's just a place for celebrities as “as much a compilation of the major events, to show off how happy they are and for companies memes and phenomena to have emerged in the to advertise their products. WeChat is everywhere, Web 2.0 era as it is a prescriptive analysis.” but it doesn't totally replace Weibo. There's a say- ing that goes: “On Facebook, it's all the people WHO WAS THE ONLINE HERO OF 2015? you know but have nothing in common with, If I had to pick a hero from 2015, it would be that and on Twitter, it's all people you don't know teacher with the 10-character resignation letter: “世 but have everything in common with.” 界那么大，我想去看看” (“It’s a big world, I wanna go WeChat is not yet a community of see it”). I think the spirit behind that is pretty 2015 ideas, although it does damn – startups and other risky ventures are getting more near everything else, and does and more popular. it well. WHAT ABOUT THE ONLINE VILLAINS? WHICH NEW SOCIAL For single people, the celebrities who got married in MEDIA PLATFORM grand style this year – Liu Qiangdong and bubble- SHOULD WE BE KEEP- tea girl; and ; and Jay ING AN EYE OUT FOR? Chou and Hannah Quinlivan – probably didn’t make I can’t think of any – I guess November 11 any easier. and her boo 2016 will be the year to look didn’t get married, but they get an honorable mention out for surprises! for sheer amount of non-news generated. Carter’s book Let 100 Voices WHAT WAS 2015’S BEST MEME? Speak: How the Internet is Transforming China and Changing I don't think it was a meme exactly, but my favorite Everything is available on Amazon social media development of the year was the and for Kindle. WeChat hongbao function. It was around in 2014 but became really popular earlier this year during the Spring Festival. Integration of mobile payment apps

40 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM Lots of things went viral this year, but some Do you get a rush every viruses are worse than others. time someone clicks the Like how polio is worse than herpes. little heart on your WeChat Moment? Given that some of these accounts average over 1 million likes a month, BELLY BUTTON imagine how they feel. CHALLENGE In a collective act of unashamed narcissism, the belly Most WeChat button challenge saw Weibo users attempting to touch their own navel by reaching around their backs. It was, of course, a thinly veiled excuse for people to show off their Likes slim bodies (it's actually more a sign of shoulder flexibility, but whatever). People’s Daily (rmrbwx) Also the most viewed account, the Party’s 1 official paper is the king of WeChat. DUANG Big Bared Flower It all began with ’s shampoo commercial: “...after (dacihua258) filming, visual effects are added, the hair – duang! – be- A channel that appears to be made up of comes black, very shiny and very smooth,” he exclaimed. funny videos from Dongbei. 2 No one knows what ‘duang’ means, but that’s kind of the point. It soon spread across the web as a multi-purpose Card Baby Micro Card (kawa01) sound effect. A selection of short articles, music, celebs, 3 jokes and fashion. Reading Club Digest ME, MY SELFIES AND I (duzhe3650) The following photographic masterpieces proved particularly popular: Xi Jinping A literature magazine that delivers doses with UK Prime Minister David Cameron and Manchester City footballer Sergio of micro-lit to followers. 4 Aguero; Premier Li Keqiang with Indian PM Narendra Modi; Aibaba’s Jack Ma with French President François Hollande and assorted tycoons. Insight (DJ00123987) Clickbait about the weird and wonderful. 5 Utter misnomer. Northeast Tease (dadoubi258) BROTHER ORANGE Dongbei videos again prove to be a popular source of entertainment. 6 This one had all the ingredients of viral gold: stolen goods, selfies in front of fruit trees and a nationwide hunt for the man with Matt Stopera’s phone. The Buzzfeed writer and a guy from Guangdong (forever known as Brother Orange) Comedy Gif Figure (gifaaa) then went global with their bromance. Heartwarming stuff. Everyone loves funny gifs and this account is 7 dedicated to them. CCTV News (cctvnewscenter) THE ‘MAGIC BUNNY’ The news broadcaster now broadcasts There are two important things to know about the Ili pika: it’s cute and it’s en- news to your pocket. 8 dangered. Awareness of the rarely sighted Chinese mammal spread throughout the net (albeit under the technically inaccurate name ‘magic bunny’) after it was Traditional holiday wishes profiled by National Geographic. (zhufu569) Nauseatingly cutesy holiday greetings for 9 acquaintances and distant relatives. FM93, The Voice of Radio (hifm93) WANG SICONG Breaking news: Traffic radio is popular in The son of China’s richest man was a constant source of a country with a lot of traffic.10 fascination and controversy in 2015. Social media exploded when Wang gave his dog Apple Watches, when he spoke English with a British accent, and when he made vulgar com- Based on latest monthly ‘like’ figures at the ments about women. Thankfully, most reacted with outrage. time of writing. Data courtesy of newrank.cn

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 41 n one sense, 2015 was hardly a vintage year for sports in the capital. Beijing’s pro teams suffered mixed fortunes and national superstars continued retiring before obvious replacements had emerged. But on the international stage, 2015 was perhaps China’s most significant yearI since the 2008 Olympics. The Bird’s Nest was brought to life once more for the Championships; while Beijing and Zhangjiakou’s successful Winter Olympics 2022 bid means that China can create another spectacle for the watching world. The latter also provides an incentive to combat the polluted skies that everyone, from top tennis players to amateur marathon runners, had something to say about this year. DEJAN fter almost snatching the DAMJANOVIC (CSL) title in 2014, Guo’an had a comparatively BEIJING GUO’AN disappointing season. Nonetheless, striker Dejan Damjanović stood out once again, with Athe ponytailed Montenegrin finishing as the team’s top A DIPLOMATIC ANSWER. WHAT ARE YOUR scorer for the second year running. 2016 PREDICTIONS FOR GUO’AN AND CHINESE FOOTBALL IN GENERAL? CAN YOU SUM UP GUO’AN’S YEAR FOR US? That’s a really hard question. It depends who stays When you finish fourth, for sure nobody is happy. But it in the Guo’an team next year. We need fresh blood was very tough throughout the season and we fought but not too much. I don’t know how the CSL is until the end to qualify for the ACL [Asian Champions going to be, but it’s going to be harder, that’s for League; spots are awarded only to the top three teams sure. This year was really unpredictable, so I’m in the CSL]. But in my opinion, we couldn’t compete in expecting something like that again in 2016. three competitions this year – the number of injuries was one of the reasons why we didn’t reach ACL. AND WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS FOR NEXT YEAR? IS RETIREMENT ON WHAT WAS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING THE HORIZON? TO HAPPEN IN THE CSL IN 2015? My contract is up in December, so I still For me, the most important thing this year was that don’t know my situation. I’m satisfied this was the most interesting CSL season, and a lot of with my season – 20 goals in all com- things were decided in the last games. That makes it petition without any injuries. interesting for everyone, and it shows that the CSL is Now I’m going to rest and about more than one team! But still, the season will be see what happens, but my remembered for Guangzhou winning their fifth title, to plan is to play two be honest. Again, they showed that they are the best in years more. the league. WHAT (OR WHO) WAS THE BIG SURPRISE OF 2015? Shijiazhuang Ever Bright – a new team in the league but with an excellent coach and fans who made games tough for everyone, especially at their home ground.

WHO WAS THE CSL HERO OF 2015? Shao Jiayi [Guo’an’s recently retired midfielder] - an excellent footballer and even better guy. He is the best ambassador for Chinese football. AND THE VILLAIN OF 2015? This, I don’t know really.

42 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM are far more losers but here’s three of each All sports have winners and losers. Normally there CHINA’S WOMEN’S WINNERS BEIJING TIGERS VOLLEYBALL TEAM The capital’s baseball team World Cups in any sport are worth cel- failed to retain their national ebrating. Ones that arise from beating title, losing out to first-time Japan in the final, even more so. Led champions Jiangsu Pegasus. by the wonderfully nicknamed spiker, While being runner-up might ‘Iron Hammer’ Lang Ping, China’s normally be considered an women’s volleyball team secured the achievement, China’s profes- title and booked their place at the sional league only features four 2016 Rio Olympics. teams. So really, the Tigers fin- ished third-from-bottom. GUO CHUAN China might not have much of a DING JUNHUI reputation in the sailing world, but Having started 2015 as world this plucky skipper sailed his way No. 1, China’s most successful into history by crossing the Arctic snooker player looked set to finish Ocean in record time. Leading an the year in ninth. Ding’s ranking international crew, Guo took just wasn’t helped by his failure to pro- 13 days to cover the 6,000km gress from the first round of three voyage in a trimaran named successive tournaments and his loss ‘Qingdao China.’ to Gary Wilson – ranked just 56th – at his home tournament, the China BEIJING DUCKS Open. The Ducks have made a fal- tering start to the 2015-16 LIU XIANG season, but the last calendar The former star ended his mar- year can still be considered a riage just three months after success. The team secured retiring from athletics. Citing a personal- their third CBA title in four ity mismatch, Liu’s divorced from actress years back in March, de- Ge Tian less than a year after the wed- spite the fact that star point ding. Ge also loses points for question- guard Stephon Marbury is able performances in anti-Japanese

pushing 40. LOSERS drama Together We Fight the Devils.

Liu Hong walks to gold China’s only gold medal at the World Athletics Championships came in the ever-popular 20km walk. While very little of Liu’s impressive 1:27:45 performance 1 made for pulsating viewing, she waddled into the Bird’s Nest to rapturous cheers Top before crossing the line in front of a home crowd. Usain Bolt gets taken out by a Segway Sure, feel-good sporting moments should be about pushing physical limits and triumphing over adversity. But in this list, schadenfreude can trump all that. Usain Bolt getting wiped out at the Bird’s Nest by hap- 2 less Segway cameraman Song Tao was a gift from the gods of gifs. Endless replay value.

Li Na gives birth Given that Li Na has retired, this perhaps shouldn’t qualify. But she’s still sporting royalty. Plus, newborn Alisa was pretty cute, and and some would argue that pushing out a 3kg baby is harder work than winning a grand slam. The former tennis star 3 also managed to amass another RMB75 million this year, ac- cording to Forbes. Quite the retirement.

Chen Penbin runs 100 marathons in 100 days Marathons are hard. One hundred marathons, more so. So run- ning one a day for 100 days may be an accurate description of hell. But 37-year-old former fisherman Chen Penbin seemed to Feel-Good have a permanent (though occasionally pained) smile on his face 5Sporting 4 throughout the challenge. Ning Zetao has abs Stories The 22-year-old may have won 100-meter freestyle gold in swimming’s Because we all watch 2015 FINA World Championships but it was Ning’s abs that went viral sports to feel better online. “We call handsome boys little fresh meat,” wrote one Weibo user. about the world, right? 5 “But for special ones like Ning, he should be called little fresh fish.” WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 43 he most exciting thing about tech KAISER KUO is how quickly Director of International Communications at Baidu

things change. ong-term Beijing resident, co-host the big interface advances, alongside the ButT that’s also the most of the Sinica podcast and all- mouse and the touch screen. around China tech connoisseur Kaiser Kuo sums up the year in WAS THERE A TECH STORY IN frustrating thing about it. La collection of pleasing soundbites. CHINA THAT CAUGHT YOUR EYE? I can’t put a date to it, or a discrete WHAT WAS THE MOST FAR- event. But this year a lot of people watch- You buy a new phone and it REACHING THING TO HAPPEN IN ing the tech scene in China felt that it THE CHINA TECH WORLD THIS was the year when mobile Internet in is obsolete seconds later. YEAR? China had actually surpassed the US in I’d say it was the wave of consolidations meaningful ways. Many of the companies You fall in love with a new in the Internet sector: Didi and Kuaidi who are active in this space and started early in the year, Ganji and 58.com in the off as PC-centric were, by the end of the spring, Meituan and Dianping, Alibaba year, clearly mobile-first. Mobile is making app, and then it falls foul buying Youku-Tudou, and Baidu’s share- up over 50 percent of their traffic, or even swap that gave Ctrip a sizable stake in their revenues. And we all started realizing of Chinese law. You believe Qunar. Taken together these most cer- how much better than WhatsApp WeChat tainly represent a significant change in actually is, and how much stuff you can that the latest gadgets will the overall competitive scene. do with Baidu Maps. WHAT WAS THE BEST BREAK- WHAT ARE YOUR PREDICTIONS improve your life, and then THROUGH TECHNOLOGY OF AND EXPECTATIONS FOR 2016? 2015? We’re going to see AI make gigantic a self-driving car kidnaps This year saw a lot of breakthroughs in strides in 2016 in areas like computer speech recognition technology, includ- vision, machine translation, speech rec- your mother and drives ing Baidu’s Deep Speech tech ognition and speech synthesis. While AI applied to Mandarin Chinese. didn’t touch the lives of the majority It’s astonishingly accurate, of Chinese web users in 2015, it her to Mongolia. It’s time and is going to be a real certainly will in 2016 – though it game-changer: You’ll be will do so in ways that aren’t to step back, put away able to do voice com- obvious to most people. Tech mands in very natural companies are going to that damn Apple Watch language soon for move even more mean- a huge range of ingfully – and aggres- and take stock of all the applications. This sively – into traditional is going to make industries like health- networked devic- care, finance and recent happenings in the es much more education. And we’re accessible and finally going to see a world of Chinese tech. easy-to-use Chinese tech com- for ordinary pany make waves It may feel like you’ve people. This in an international will be up market. just downloaded 2015 there among onto your phone, but it’s already bugging you to upgrade to a newer version.

44 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM QUOTE OF THE YEAR “APPLE IS HITLER” That’s at least what Jia Yueting, the billionaire founder and CEO of Chinese video site LeTV seemed to think about the California tech giant. The entrepreneur made the awkward comparison in March, in a poster published on his Weibo page (which has more than 5 million followers) teasing the launch of LeTV’s new smartphone. The image showed a cartoon Adolf Hitler wearing a red armband with the Apple logo in place of the Nazi swasti- ka. Smooth move. The poster read “Crowdsourced, Freedom vs. Arrogance, Tyranny” and was supposed to illustrate that Apple is stifling innovation and harming the interests of us- ers. After the image drew international attention, Jia issued an apology, replacing the image of Hitler with that of a king. Still, we now know what this guy really thinks.

The year’s Poor Jack Ma (relatively speaking) Ma started 2015 as China’s richest man. The Alibaba founder Jack Ma was rolling in renminbi – and dollars, after his American IPO. But in October, Ma was ousted from his spot by Wang Jianlin, leaving him with a measly US$19 bil- 1 lion and China’s most successful web company. Poor chap.

But is it rose gold? In 2014, China surpassed the US as the iPhone’s biggest market. So how to follow the success of the iPhone 6? Rose gold, that’s how. The new iPhone 6s sported this elegant (and, you know, made up) color on its metallic back and it outsold its normal-colored counterpart by a 2 hefty three million units in the Mainland.

Uber love for China Despite not being legal in the strictest sense, Uber is something of a big deal in China. The firm is already doing more than one million rides per day in China, which constitutes 30 percent of its entire business. It works because China has a) tons of cities and 3 b) terrible traffic in said cities. Simple business, really. 5biggest Chinese government swipes right on startups updates In May, Chinese Li Keqiang met with a group of tech entrepreneurs in Beijing’s Zhongguancun, or ‘China’s Silicon Valley.’ Then in (and September, Xi Jinping visited Seattle as executives from Apple, IBM and Facebook joined up with their Chinese counterparts at Alibaba, 4 Tencent and Baidu. It was a down- tech-together like no other. grades) 马克·扎克伯格 Ma down, That’s pronounced “Mǎkè zhā kè bó gé,” and it’s the Zuckerberg up. Chinese name of Facebook CEO Mark Zuckerberg. He went public with his mandarin skills at Tsinghua Among other University, where he spoke for 20 minutes and even things. 5 dropped in a few Chinese idioms. The Internet was not kind however, with commentators criticizing his tones.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 45 ess than a decade ago, China was considered a vast, untapped market ruled by lawlessness and piracy. Now, it’s the world’s second largest film market and is changing the way Hollywood works. In 2015 we saw domestic Lproductions like Monster Hunt setting new records, a product of the burgeoning professionalism sweeping all creative industries – from music to literature, art to theater. The year past was also one of award-winning writers, Amex-wielding art collectors, Internet regulation, the growth of livehouses around the country and, alas, the confirmation that no country can resist the charms of The Fast and the Furious.

FounderZHANG of Gallery 01100001 LI

ince graduating Beijing’s Central Academy of Fine Art (CAFA) in 1992, Zhang Li has established himself as a leading scholar on contemporary Chinese art. In 2009, he founded Gallery 01100001 in Beijing and was recently appointed director of SShanghai Gallery of Art, where he has served as curator since 2004. WHAT DO YOU THINK WAS THE BIGGEST CHANGE IN CHINA’S ART SCENE IN 2015? The immense and powerful growth of the domestic art sector. This year proved that the Chinese art scene could withstand, and to some extent even weaken, the impact of shifts in the global economic recession and social environment. WHAT WAS YOUR ART HIGHLIGHT OF THIS YEAR? Xu Zhen’s solo exhibition at Shanghai’s Long Museum. WHAT (OR WHO) WAS THE BIG NAME OF 2015? Gu Dexin, China’s most avant-garde artist. His installation works have earned him worldwide fame. WHAT DO YOU PREDICT FOR CHINESE ART IN 2016? I presume we may witness a tremendous shift in the way art is created here. It’s also likely that artists will try to be more implicit or subtle in expressing their visions, rather than overtly aggressive or extreme. WHAT ABOUT CHINESE COLLECTORS? WILL THE PHENOMENAL GROWTH CONTINUE? Chinese collectors are only going to grow in number. As for the art that’s 3 most likely going to be trending? I think it’ll be works from the early 20th century that grab quite a bit of attention from local investors.

46 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM LIU CIXIN OVER-HYPED MAINLAND The nine-time Galaxy Award- winner continues to lead SEQUELS Chinese science fiction to new The year began with disappointing box heights. In 2015, Liu became office returns for ’s highly the first Asian writer to win anticipated Gone with the Bullets. The Best Novel at the coveted follow-up to 2011 hit Let the Bullets Fly Hugo Awards for the English grossed around USD83 million, which translation of his famous work – while a respectable number – was far The Three-Body Problem. The lower than expected (early hype had groundbreaking book was the tipped it to set a new box-office record). first of its genre to be translated Similar disappointment faced Lost into English in 30 years, and will be adapted for a majorly in , the sequel to 2013’s hyped film set for release next year. hugely successful comedy Lost in Thailand. CHINA’S BOX OFFICE FEWER STREAMING OPTIONS It was another record- Long-promised plans to regulate Internet streaming came to fruition in breaking year for China’s February, meaning that TV shows require a permit and approval of the film industry, with 2014’s full season before making total box office income of their way to China. Just over RMB29.6 billion overtaken a year ago, Frank Underwood by September 2015. The and the House of Cards biggest benefactor looked gang were averaging 3 million set to be Fast & Furious views a day on Sohu. Yet the 7 (which became China’s third season still remains una- most commercially suc- vailable on the Chinese net. cessful film ever), before Given how underwhelming moviegoers redeemed themselves – FF7’s record was quickly broken by Season 3 is, though, perhaps domestic animation-live-action hybrid Monster Hunt (although somewhat that’s a blessing in disguise. controversially, see below). MATT DAMON’S PONYTAIL China/Hollywood 'co-productions' have been an industry buzzword for years, and no film has more riding on it than The Great Wall. Filming for ’s sci-fi action adventure (which is based on a story by World War Z au- thor Max Brooks) began in Qingdao in March 2015. But it was the film’s star, Matt Damon, who had the world buzzing when he casually revealed a ponytail at a Beijing press conference to promote the film. Hao bu hao? You decide.

More box office regulation China’s booming film industry was undermined by allegations that box-office figures for Monster Hunt, Lost in Hong Kong and The Hundred Regiments Offensive had been manipu- lated (some cinemas reported selling more tickets than they 1 have seats). In September, the Motion Picture Association of America (MPAA) confirmed a deal with China that allows it to independently collect and verify payments from films dis- tributed here, and more regulations are expected to prevent distributors inflating sales figures.

More (licensed!) music streaming No industry has been hit harder by piracy than music. But the sector seems ready to fight back. With unlicensed streaming finally outlawed, China’s major music-streaming services have been pushed to sign exclusive deals with American record labels. Those services may have 2 spent much of 2015 suing one another, but they now seem ready to establish a viable legal music sector. The competition will be fierce – Apple Music has just joined the likes of QQ Music, Kugou and Alibaba’s Xiami in an already crowded market. More paying subscribers After years of skepticism, companies like iQiyi have proven that entertainment China is ready for paid subscription services. The site attracted over 5 million paid users who can watch hit shows like The Last 3industry Tomb in advance. Online viewers also proved willing to fork out for Game of Thrones and The Sopranos (both on QQ), while Sohu 3has predictions attracted huge numbers of monthly subscribers by acquiring big-name Hollywood films. With the demand already in place, 2016 will bring big for 2016 battles for content and an inevitable price war.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 47 here is no doubt that 2015 was a fashionable year for China. The country’s fashion industry may have experienced sustained growth for two decades, but this was the year that the world took notice. T The smash-hit exhibition at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art, ‘China: Through the Looking Glass,’ might have had something to do with it (see opposite page), but the rising spending power of Chinese consumers – and their increasingly discerning tastes – played a major role too. This is no longer just the land of cheap counterfeits and shoddy manufacturing. Don’t get us wrong though – we still love a good ‘Channel’ branded bag and hope to see plenty of ‘Berberry’ and ‘Verzace’ tees in 2016, too. Some thingsLUO should

never change. JINGJIEFashion designer and professor

uo Jingjie is Assistant Director at the like Uma Wang, became regular fixtures of the fashion Fashion & Art Design School of Donghua calendar. Fashion in the East is growing fast, and China University, Shanghai, and one of China’s is at the center of it. Top 10 fashion designers according to Lthe China Fashion Association and the China WHAT WAS YOUR FAVORITE FASHION National Garment Association. He has shown MOMENT? his designs both at China Fashion Week in My personal favorite this year was Shanghai Fashion Beijing and Shanghai Fashion Week. Week. Unlike China Fashion Week in Beijing, the Shanghai event has made waves over the last couple of WHAT WAS THE MOST years, and has become a serious contender in the in- IMPORTANT OR FAR-REACH- dustry. This season had lots of buyers, lots of attention, ING FASHION EVENT THIS lots of new faces. It was lively, dynamic and creative – YEAR? super interesting to attend. This was a turbulent year in fash- ion. Many international houses WHO IS A CHINESE DESIGNER TO WATCH? dropped their designers and, vice There are so many good ones. If I had to pick I would versa, a number of creatives left say Fengchen Wang, a young Beijing-born designer who brands they’d been working with for just showed at New York and Shanghai fashion weeks. years – Balenciaga and Alexander She has an international perspective and a futuristic Wang for instance, but also Lanvin aesthetic – and most importantly, a lot of potential. and Alber Ebaz. The downturn brought by the economic slump ANY PREDICTIONS FOR 2016? shrunk the living and breathing space For China’s fashion industry, 2016 is going to be another of the fashion industry. year of growth and expansion. Many promising design- Amid the overall slowdown, China ers who studied fashion abroad are coming back, and has somehow come out as a win- starting to set foot in the local industry. Taobao and e- ner: we saw many up-and-coming commerce in general are also going to offer more space Chinese fashion talents making for smaller brands, a move that might possibly threaten headlines in international fashion bigger ventures and fashion companies. weeks – Haizhen Wang, Masha Generally speaking, small-scale businesses are going Ma, Fengcheng Wang. This was to do really well, I think – the market is shifting away also the year when more es- from the big names, which means new designers are tablished Chinese designers, going to have more opportunities to thrive.

48 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM Who

ZHANG was hot XINYU Up-and-coming Chinese on China’s actress Zhang Xinyu turned international fashion heads on the red carpet of the 68th planet Cannes Film Festival this year when she wore a cotton quilt reminiscent of the folk-style fashion? padded jackets favored by workers in Dongbei. Designed The it girl, the hot guy, the by Hohhot-born designer rising actress – Here’s the Sheguang Hu, the gown went viral and its pattern was soon here is no doubt that 2015 was a fashionable year for China. The skinny on the country’s most adopted by the meme world. stylish names this year country’s fashion industry may have experienced sustained growth for two decades, but this was the year that the world took notice. HU BING Hu Bing, aka China’s (the world’s?) ANGELABABY hottest man, was without doubt The smash-hit exhibition at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Hong Kong actress, singer and our crush of the year. The country’s model Angelababy broke the top male model is also a part-time Chinese Internet this October when singer and actor who just hap- T she married actor Huang Xiaoming pens to be a former Olympic Art, ‘China: Through the Looking Glass,’ might have had something to do with in a ceremony that could be best rower. In spring, Hu was ap- described as batshit-crazy expen- pointed international ambas- it (see opposite page), but the rising spending power of Chinese consumers sive. Perhaps looking to upstage sador for Collections her American counterpart Kim of Men (the male equivalent – and their increasingly discerning tastes – played a major role too. This is no Kardashian (the two are often com- of London Fashion Week) by pared for their impressive lack of the British Fashion Council, talent), Angelababy is said to have which saw him promoting longer just the land of cheap counterfeits and shoddy manufacturing. Don’t spent USD31 million on the nup- British style across the world tials – nearly three times as much (but mostly in China, really). Man get us wrong though – we still love a good ‘Channel’ branded bag and hope to as Kim and Kanye. is so hot. see plenty of ‘Berberry’ and ‘Verzace’ tees in 2016, too. Some things should The Met digs That Guo Pei dress China (and so does A well-established name in China, haute never change. couturiere Guo Pei made international OF THE everybody else) headlines when Rihanna wore one of her Paying homage to the influ- creations to the Met Ball. The gown – which 1 ence of Chinese culture on 2 featured an imperial yellow, fur-trimmed YEAR’S Western fashion through a cape embroidered with scrolls combination of music, film, of flora – took two years to photography and clothes, make and weighed 25 kilos. TRENDIEST ‘China: Through the Looking It was compared to a gigantic Glass’ became the New York pizza, a jianbing and museum’s most successful SpongeBob, but it TRENDS exhibition to date. Its opening put the Chinese de- night, the famed Met Ball, saw celebs signer firmly on the (from China and Hollywood alike) walk the red radar of the global carpet in China-influenced dresses. Given the risk fashion industry AND of cultural misappropriation, it could have been a (which had been major taste snafu. But actually, it was ok. somewhat behind). EVENTS Vogue Sprouts grow China everywhere THAT No one is quite sure turns 10 why people around The glossy the country (starting magazine TRENDED in Chengdu) began turned 10 in wearing hairpins in September Some dope, the shape of sprouts, and celebrated with a glitzy grass, mushrooms and 1920s-inspired cover shoot featuring 10 some random, flowers. But then again, A-list Chinese celebs captured by fash- why not? This trend proved so popular that, some down- ion photographer Mario Testino. Birthday parties3 unlike most other hair-accessory in Milan and Shanghai soon followed, bringing fads (or specifically, barrette fads), these bean right bizarre. together all the A-listers you’d expect. The publica- sprout clips were spotted not only on women tion has established itself as one of Condé Nast’s that's fashion, and kids, but also on men. Taobao sold more most commercially successful titles – an impres- than 1 million hairpins, with the fad evolving to we suppose. sive feat in a country that, until two decades ago, include flags, food items and insects. had no fashion scene to speak of. 4 WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 49 GRAPEVINE

open page 文章开始线

SNACKS AND THE CITY OFF THE BEATEN PLATE

In this month’s edition of Snacks Last month, we attended British Menu Week’s and the City – which is our food- beer-and-cheese tasting, where – to our inebriated and-drink news column, but delight – stinky, moldy cheeses were paired with also our Sex and the City parody ales. We wondered: What else could cheese go column, obviously – we explore with? And then we wondered: Why not green tea? the following faux-poignant Well, here’s why not: Green Tea with Salted question: Is anybody content Cheese. This frothy, artificially flavored witches’ to live traditionally anymore? brew hails from Happylemon, the sugary-drink (Besides Charlotte, of course.) mega-chain found lurking in shopping-mall We only ask because Da Dong basements and subway-station exits nationwide. Much to (whom we originally considered our chagrin, it does indeed feature green tea and salted the upholder of that most sacred cheese. The latter comes as foam on top of the overly of Beijing traditions: Peking sweet tea, like a latte, if you will. And – surprise! – the two Duck) has turned the dish on its flavors assault our taste buds. Our only advice? Avoid. head – or placed it in a bun. In Salty or not, your cheese deserves to be paired with short, Da Dong duck burgers are something better. now at Building 19, 89 Jianguo Available at Happylemon stores across the city, RMB10 Lu, Chaoyang. Bite them and weep. Another change we lament HEAD-TO-HEAD / FESTIVE COFFEE is the closing of Saveurs de Coree’s branch on Ju’er Hutong… maybe. We never really went there anyway, so maybe it’s fine that all the operations are moving to the Xiang’er Hutong outpost – it’s not that far from the other one, VER SUS after all. In happier news, we hear rumors that The Other Place has been bought and will reopen Christmas Panettone Gingerbread December 30. And we also hear Flavored Latte Cookie Latte tell that Haven is working on 意式圣诞拿铁 姜饼曲奇拿铁 brunch menus. Available at Starbucks, RMB35 (tall) Available at Costa Coffee, RMB33 (small) One longtime tradition of food in China remains unchanged: FIRST IMPRESSIONS the importing of Western chains The festive-themed cup is warm and cozy, like the The grease-filmed surface and indeterminate to great economic success. That more wholesome sister of the red-tainted beer floating brown objects leave much to be desired, includes Pizza Express, which cups clutched by frat bros across ‘Murica. to say the least. is opening its third location in Liangmaqiao. Now here’s INITIAL TASTE a question to explore in next It tastes like all of Starbucks’ generic milk-based The ginger game in this latte is strong. And month’s column: Do we need drinks – overwhelmingly sweet and creamy – but by that we mean: it’s like sipping ginger this much Pizza Express? Do with a hint of Christmas. concentrate (with a dash of milk). we? NM SECOND SIP There are distinct floral overtones and fruity We get a mouthful of the indeterminate floating undertones in this panetto… we mean mass- brown object and it turns out that it’s not fecal produced drink. matter after all, but gingerbread pieces.

VERDICT The Christmas Panettone Latte is definitely the better looking of the two and wins the award for Most Likely to Give a Toothache. But once you take the time to get to know the Gingerbread Latte, it has more substance (literally). Costa Coffee FTW. Da Dong's new duck burger

50 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM [email protected]

THEY SAID IT, WE READ IT BARTISANS Wagas (Sanlitun) This month, Alexander, who does marketing, promotions, sales and “everything else” for Chinese energy drink Go Ever wondered what kids these days think of some of Beijing’s long-standing food- Player and-drink establishments? To give you an idea, we’ve handpicked and translated some comments from popular ratings site dianping.com. This month: Wagas – in light of our favorite cafe upping prices and decreasing serving sizes, we went online to see what others were saying.

I bought a All of the chicken mango cakes and Not great value avocado salad, and average but where is the sandwiches The pasta is the taste, but I’ve avocado? Where are delicious. best with thick is the chicken? I will always heard it’s creamy sauce. supposed to be And where is the support them! So perfect! healthy. mango?

NEWS BITES

Fit for a Greene King LI HOLLY BY PHOTO — How is Go Player different from, say, Red Bull? Chinese Red Bull [that comes in short, gold cans] is not connected to International Red Bull [the tall, skinny cans found in the West]. International Red Bull failed in China last year because Chinese customers didn’t really like it. It’s too fizzy, and the smell of taurine is too strong. So for Go Player, we made it in the middle – it’s less fizzy than International Red Bull, but also less sweet than Chinese Red Bull. —Go Player doesn’t have caffeine. So what gives you energy? Taurine – the essence from bulls’ sperm! But ours isn’t real bull semen – that hasn’t been used in energy drinks since the original Thai Red Bull was first started. But British brewery Greene King landed itself a priceless endorsement when taurine is our main energy source, as well as guarana, President Xi Jinping was photographed enjoying a pint of its IPA with British a Brazilian berry that has a lot of energy, as well as Prime Minister David Cameron during his recent state visit to the UK. vitamins B6 and B3. According to Peter Bloxham, a Beijing-based British businessman who imports —Do you drink Go Player straight, or can you mix Greene King beer into China, sales of Greene King IPA have rocketed since, leaving it in cocktails? Beijing warehouse stocks dry. Due to increased demand, Bloxham plans to import We have almost 40 recipes for cocktails! We have so 80,000 bottles in December, up from the usual 6,000 bottles per month. many – Mojito player, expresso player, screwdriver This isn’t just a capital affair: the Xi effect has reportedly been far-reaching, player… You can try some of them in Janes & Hooch. with beer drinkers from Xinjiang to thirsty for a taste of the IPA. A Tianjin —Why create an energy drink in China? business owner claimed that customers were offering to pay twice the normal If we don’t do it, Monster will come to China someday. price. “My stocks are nearly all gone,” she told Tianjin Daily. Other international energy drinks will come to China Businesses have indeed been quick to jump onto the beerwagon by highlighting someday. But right now, we don’t have too many the pub trip in their promotional materials. Signage outside a bar in Beijing competitors. We are the first in China that’s a real includes images of the famous drinking session accompanied by the text, “Come energy drink. and drink beer here. We have the same Greene King beer that Xi Dada drank.” Go Player is available at venues throughout the city, including I guess we’ll have what Xi’s having. Spark, Halo, Hush, Boombar, Mix, Janes & Hooch and Cheers

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 51 EAT & DRINK | FEATURE

Food is Only Half open page 文章开始线 the Equation Nathan Zhang is pretty upset right now. words by Noelle Mateer Workers hired by his local authorities are chipping away at his restaurant. Literally. With chisels. They are replacing the hutong exterior with fresh gray cement, cut into rectangles to resemble bricks, as part of a mianzi gongchen, or ‘face project.’ Most other property renters in the area are happy with the free makeover. But Nathan doesn’t want a new face. On one of my visits, he darts in and out of his front door, watching the workers nervously and shaking his head. And on another, he gives the workers outside a stern talking to before allowing them to continue and joining me for tea. “That side of the building belongs to my neighbor, so I can’t do anything,” he explains, gesturing with an air of resignation toward the space to the right of his front door. “But they can’t touch the rest – that’s mine. I’ll fight it.” On Xiang’er Hutong, noodle joints and chuan’r shops stretch all the way from Beixinqiao to Jiaodaokou Nan, and they mostly look the same. Nathan’s place, White Tiger Village, is indeed a chaun’r joint. But it doesn’t look like the others. It stands out. Earlier this year, Nathan began work on his restaurant, which serves Dongbei comfort foods alongside good wine and beer.

52 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FEATURE | EAT & DRINK

And while his New Zealand lamb skewers same colors and fonts. You’ll pass waitresses entirely with food) that all look the same. are succulent, it’s the establishment’s unique dressed in similar uniforms, handing you Almost everyone is dressed in chic black. I design that may keep customers coming identical laminated menus. didn’t get the memo, sorry guys. back. This sameness may be a hangover from The brand has already flown in Michelin- With the help of his interior-designer 60s- and 70s-era communist ideals, which starred chefs for exclusive dining events, friend Yvonne Lin, Nathan created an open- encouraged aesthetics of uniformity. But something the 10 Corso Como team plans plan kitchen for his restaurant, the focal today, a growing number of the city’s to continue. The success of the cafe, which point of which is a large countertop: chefs restaurateurs are using thoughtful, established locations in Shanghai, Seoul and chop and stir on one side, customers sit on individualistic design to make their places Milan before opening in Beijing, suggests stools on the other. The rest of the space is stand out. that the current trend of incorporating filled with two tall tables, surrounded by In short: dining and designing are no creative design into dining spaces may form high chairs, which lend it a casual, almost longer separate things. at high-end establishments before filtering bar-like vibe. And rather than a traditional A case in point is 10 Corso Como, down to the mass market. hutong color scheme of gray and red, the seemingly light-years away from the hutongs But the hutongs suggest otherwise. place is peppered with lemon-yellow accents of Dongcheng in Dawang Lu’s ritzy Shinkong Popular Gulou cafe Zarah has expanded (“I always liked yellow,” says Nathan with a Place. The design house and restaurant from its offerings beyond the caffeine needs shrug). Milan opened its Beijing cafe last month, and of laptop-warriors by displaying art But perhaps the best bit is the restaurant’s when I ask for directions there, marketing exhibitions on its walls (part of the semi- east wall, which displays different artworks manager Rekky Liu sends me a cheerful recent renovations that rendered its design every few months. Currently, a cartoon of WeChat voice message: “We’re in front of sleek and beautiful). Great Leap Brewing #6 a Dongbei police officer, created by Beijing Armani and next to Chanel!” recently completed a renovation combining T-shirt brand Plastered 8, looks down on the Shinkong Place is, after all, crammed modern comforts and practicalities with a customers below. with more high-end designer brands than delightfully preserved traditional hutong White Tiger Village’s design is modern, a celebrity’s walk-in shoe closet. And 10 aesthetic (as we profiled in last month’s fun and full of natural light. But not only that Corso Como’s new cafe is no exception. That’s Beijing). Dashilar’s Spoonful of Sugar, – it has fueled the restaurant’s success. And It’s certainly glamorous enough to sit meanwhile, is essentially a study in mindful that’s exactly why Nathan’s not happy about comfortably among its fashion-house gentrification. The two-story space is airy forced renovations. neighbors. But it also manages to stand out. and full of natural light – but it also features “Why do we all have to look the same?” he Inside the cafe, gorgeous tiles, hand- an eco-friendly roof garden and hosts laments. painted by American artist Kris Ruhs to community events. This is a question many food and drink resemble teacup saucers, line the walls. The annoyingly stylish Shanghai is also entrepreneurs are asking lately. For years, (“Do you go to Milan for fashion week?” putting more thought into aesthetics, Beijing restaurants have largely looked the Ruhs asks me over Prosecco later, as if that’s according to restaurant designer Briar same. Stroll any residential area and you’ll something I might regularly, you know, do.) Hickling, who has worked on some of the pass local restaurants whipping up dishes Ironically, it’s the members of the crowd most famous F&B spaces in China, including under glaring fluorescent light, and tables assembled for the cafe’s opening party celebrity chef Jason Atherton’s Table No. lined up in a grid. You’ll pass logos in the (a spectacle of performance art executed 1. More recently, she partnered with a

From left to right: 10 Corso Como’s new cafe in Beijing’s Shinkong Place (image provided by 10 Corso Como); Nathan Zhang stands in front of artwork by Plastered 8 in his restaurant, White Tiger Village (photo by Holly Li); Custom light fixtures made to represent China’s ancient I-Ching philosophy hang on the ceiling of Shanghai’s Baoism (photo provided by Linehouse Design)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 53 EAT & DRINK | FEATURE

open page 文章开始线

From top to bottom: White Tiger Village (photo by Holly Li); coffee at 10 Corso Como

Swedish-Chinese architect friend to launch a aesthetics have changed. And perhaps more design studio, Linehouse, which has worked importantly, the economy has changed, too. on some of the most high-profile restaurants “It’s not even a trend, you just have to and cafes in Shanghai. now,” says Nathan of good design. After “With design, you can create a story, a all, the motivation to create a beautiful narrative,” she explains. “You can make restaurant space isn’t purely aesthetic – it’s your food and your design have a sort of good business. “There are so many good relationship.” places now, you have to make your place As a trained theater set designer – Briar more and more unique, otherwise there’s no worked with The Arts Foundation of New point. I think every single restaurant needs Zealand before moving to China seven to have its own character. years ago – she says she prefers designing “If you want to open a restaurant right restaurant spaces because she can “make now in Beijing, it’s such a competitive rituals ‘performative’.” market.” “You can frame certain moments through But while this competitive market may be the use of architecture to give the diner a tough for restaurateurs, it’s benefiting us, heightened experience,” she says. the diners. Graphic designer Christopher For a recent Linehouse project, a baozi Waters is one such diner. Waters started shop in Shanghai called Baoism, Briar Design and Dine to bring designers together reinterpreted the ancient Chinese text of to chat informally over meals in creative- I-Ching to create modern custom lights with minded spaces, or, as he says with a laugh: historical significance – the lines of lights on “places like The Smokeyard that just have the ceiling represent the yarrow twigs that really good food.” people tossed when consulting the I-Ching. If you are, after all, taking time to It’s inspired, creative and distinctly appreciate good food, it would appear, modern. But why is all this restaurant design you might as well be appreciating good work only booming now? Some credit the aesthetics too. growth of international influences. A number “Your experience includes eating, smelling, of uniquely designed restaurant spaces are seeing, listening – all different senses. foreign-owned (10 Corso Como, for example, Altogether, they create the whole experience. is Italian, and although Nathan is Chinese, he Together, you have a memory,” says Nathan. spent much of his life abroad in Canada). Positive memories, of course, are what This isn’t to say that local restaurant drive customers to return to certain aesthetics are inherently low-brow. In restaurants. But economics aside, memories imperial times, banquet halls were splendid on their own are pretty sweet. As Briar puts and ornate – something that you can still it: “The most rewarding part is sitting in find today in places like Beihai Park’s the space after it’s completed and watching Fangshan Restaurant, although they’ve often people enjoy it.” been overly gussied for tourists. I, however, disagree. I’d argue the most During the first few decades of the rewarding part of all this is sitting in the People’s Republic, however, such decadence space after it’s completed – and being the was not tolerated. But since then, person enjoying it.

█

54 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM JUST FUN 8 /PLACTERED 徐波 Shuangjing’s Just Fun is just that – and

it’s delicious too. The minimalistic design BY PHOTO PANG MEI MIAN ZHUANG ( 胖妹面庄 ) (think white tiles and wooden tables) is MOKA BROS Holy shit, these are really good noodles. complemented by friendly service and That’s pretty much all you need to know hearty Guizhou cuisine. The braised beef We’re only gonna tell you this once, so about this place, which is a mere hop-skip- stew (RMB45) stands out in particular. The listen up, Bros: There’s a new Moka Bros jump from Gulou. Other than that, just know family-owned restaurant plans to expand in town. Or more specifically, The Place. that these Chongqing-style noodles are next year, but until then, this may just be the Same smoothies, same power bowls, same spicy. Chase with Arctic Ocean. best place south of Guomao. incredible salads. You know what to do. Daily, 10am-10pm; east end of Xiang’er Hutong, Daily, 10am-10.30pm, Building 4, 66 Guangqu, Daily, 8am-10pm, Shop L139A , 9 Guanghua Lu, Dongsi Bei Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东四北大街香饵 Chaoyang (down Bakeyang Beijie) 朝阳区广渠路66号 Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路9号世贸天阶东入口L139A号 胡同洞口 (132 6022 6706) 院甲4号底商 (5712 4712) (6587 1368)

We Tell WorthYou if thethe RiceHassle is

PAPP’S TEA BAKER & SPICE NAPA Papp’s is a young, fun tea cafe, not to be Our long, thin lox-and-cream-cheese confused with PAPs, which are rather baguettini is the skinny jeans of bread Napa, a new restaurant by Chaoyang Park intrusive gynecological exams. Not only is sandwiches, which means don’t knock it till specializing in inoffensive American food, is Papp’s Tea 100-percent unconcerned with you try it (RMB68). The best thing about a good place for people who like their food your cervix, it’s making us think maybe tea B&S, however, isn’t the sandwiches, or the inoffensive and American. The wicked fresh could be cool again. Vagina jokes aside, a Wagas-style industrial-chic interiors – it’s Caesar Salad slays like Brutus, and a slow- Starbucks-like hangout for tea drinkers is a the large selection of reasonably priced burn spicy pumpkin soup is similarly killer. compelling idea. Watch this one. bottles of wine. The rest is less standout. Daily, 10am-10pm; west side of Yashow Market, 58 Daily; 8am-8pm; F111 Grand Summit, Dongfang Currently in soft opening, hours TBD; 16 Liulitun Gongti Beilu, Sanlitun, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路58号 Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东方东路19号官舍F111号(8531 Zhongjie (south of Park Avenue April Gourmet), (8418 5615) 5082) Chaoyang 朝阳区六里屯路中街20号

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 55 EAT & DRINK | THE SPREAD

open page 文章开始线

6

1

r 10 ee at M lle oe N y b s rd o w i L 5 y l l o H

y b

e g a

m i

2

9

56 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM Sugared Ears 1 糖耳朵

Fried Dough Circle 2 胶圈儿

Pan Si Bing filled with Red Bean 3 盘丝饼

Hua Gao 4 花糕

Zha Gao 5 炸糕

Jiang Zhi Pai Cha 6 姜汁排叉

Qie Gao 7 切糕

Sha Qi Ma 8 沙琪玛 8 Xingren Doufu (Almond Tofu) 9 杏仁豆腐

Roasted Chestnuts 10 糖炒栗子

Snack Case 11 From right to left: Pea-Flour Cake 豌豆黄 Hawthorn Jelly 京糕 Glutinous Bean Balls 紫米球 Rolling Donkey 驴打滚 Ai Wo Wo 艾窝窝

3

7

4

Traditional Beijing snack shops are teeming with dough and mung bean (and old laobeijing eating them) in various states of fried and unfried. We look behind the counters and street stalls at the sticky, gooey treats within. 11

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 57 EAT & DRINK | RESTAURANT FEATURE | EAT & DRINK

MOON LAMB RESTAURANT open page 文章开始线 Get the Damn Lamb

words by Noelle Mateer, images by Holly Li

A word of advice to visitors of Moon Lamb Restaurant: Focus on the lamb. Really, focus on it. You will be tempted by dumplings, tofu salads and green-and-yellow laminated papers advertising the health effects of corn drinks (“to drink corn is to drink healthiness,” they say). You will be tempted by piping-hot bowls of soups and stews. You will be tempted by sticky Yanjings, or, god forbid, baijiu. There’s a whole selection of them. You must not give in. Do not heed the siren calls of these edible temptresses. They are nothing but meaningless sidepieces who will only get in the way of your main. Your main is lamb. The Great Kanye West once asked: How you stay faithful in a room full of hoes? The answer is lamb. Really, really good lamb. When your main dish is this wonderful – this hot – it’s not hard to stay loyal. What we’re really trying to say is: Moon Lamb Restaurant’s lamb is good. Moon Lamb Restaurant is an unassuming Inner Mongolian joint in Hujialou. It serves probably go ahead and order that much. thousand cold tofu salads in this city. There plates of lamb ribs by the half-kilo (RMB88). The ribs are worth your hypothetical weight is only one Moon Lamb Restaurant lamb. (We That sounds like a lot, but you should gain. Soft, finely spiced meat falls off the only save Kanye references for the very best bone. Suck the bone. You’ll look dumb, but dishes, by the way). just do it. A note on the atmosphere at Moon Lamb The night of our visit, there are so many Restaurant: it pretty much sucks. The decor drivers stopping by to pick up takeout is of the fluorescent-light-and-plastic- orders that it seems as if all delivery men tablecloths variety. But that does not matter. south of Sanlitun have formed a conga line Attractive trappings would only distract you that wriggles through the restaurant on its from your life’s true purpose, which is to eat way to visit customers. Thus we conclude: lamb, of the Inner Mongolian variety, from The lamb is not only good. The lamb is also Moon Lamb Restaurant. To yank fleshy meat popular. off the bone with your teeth. To fondle said We make the mistake of ordering some meat with your tongue. To run your tongue’s things that aren’t lamb (hence the above tip along the rib bone’s slender shaft. To warning). We eat wild nori dumplings devour your plate of lamb ribs, rabidly and (RMB15) and a cold tofu salad (RMB15). feverishly, and upon finishing, to voice your They are perfectly passable – good even. satisfaction into the night with a long, joyous Then we eat lamb dumplings (RMB20), baaa. which are a marked step up from their nori Moon Lamb Restaurant is worth a visit. In counterparts. These are even better. And summation: Get the damn lamb. given the price, they’re great. They’re just not lamb. Well they are, just not the lamb. Daily, 10am-midnight, 6 Guandongdian Beilu, Kanye West also once said: There’s a Chaoyang 朝阳区 关东店北街6号楼 (138 1080 7087) thousand yous, only one of me. There are a

58 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM A FRENCH EMPIRE How Benjamin Devos Conquered Beijing One Macaron at a Time words by Noelle Mateer

Benjamin Devos doesn’t claim to be a French grandmother ever caught me nibbling on ambassador. But as founder and owner of yesterday’s bread, she’d yell: “Don’t do that!” Comptoirs de , he kind of is. Nearly 10 —Why start Comptoirs in Beijing? years after its first store opened, the French When I came here in 2002, I worked in a cafe and bakery is now a common sight on hotel and discovered the bread was terr-ib- the streets of Beijing. But Devos’ baking le. The only place with a decent croissant history goes back way further. To see just was the Kempinski, so I went and met the how one man runs an empire, we joined him chef. Then I brought a lot of flour from for chocolate eclairs and a plate of petits- France, and we started working together. year to know where we come from, because fours. We weren’t hungry, but he jollily We created a kitchen, brought a lot of good for me, it’s very important that they know insisted. He tends to do that. people together and opened shop-by-shop what a tractor is – you know what a tractor — Comptoirs de France is called ‘Fapai using our own recipes and… voila. is? [Yeah, same word in English]. They also 1855’ in Chinese. 1855? Really? —How'd that go at first? need to work in the field and know that it’s Our family has a huge farm, over 6,000 First we only sold to expats. One of our not that easy. If everything goes smoothly, hectares in Fontainebleau, France, that shops was in East Lake Villas, where there in 10 years’ time we’ll have 50 or 80 shops – stretches over two villages. Since 1855, were 300 apartments. About 260 of them they’ll be 15 years old, and they’ll probably they’ve been producing flour – a lot of flour. were rented by French people so everybody need to do an internship first. We’ll try to —So did you grow up with bread? was calling us the French Embassy. make them do theirs here. I wouldn’t even It’s everything that I know. Since I was born, —Since Comptoirs is a family business, have to pay them! They’re my kids! [Laughs.] I’ve had nice, crispy bread, made with love. will your kids run it after you? In Fontainebleau, it was very normal and That’s the idea. Currently, the kids go back to Comptoirs de France, in Sanlitun and other locations easy to have good, fresh bread – so if my the family farm at least two or three times a around the city

朝阳店 CHAOYANG PARK STORE TEL: (010) 65016249 \ 65931220 东湖别墅店 EAST LAKE STORE West Gate of Chaoyang Park, TEL: (010) 84511168 Chaoyang District B1 of East Lake Villa Club, Dongcheng 朝阳区农展南路 1 号（朝阳公园西门南 60 米） District 东城区东湖别墅东湖俱乐部地下一层 三里屯店 SANLITUN STORE TEL: (010) 64616928 \ 64635156 观湖国际店 GREEN LAKE STORE No.6 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang TEL: (010) 59283525 \ 59283723 District A1 Building of GreenLake International 朝阳区三里屯北小街 6 号 Apartment, Chaoyang District 朝阳区观湖国际甲 1 号楼 芳草地店 RITAN STORE TEL: (010) 85630626 新城国际店 CENTRAL PARK STORE No.4 Ritan North Road, Chaoyang TEL: (010) 65336791 District No. 101, Tower 17, Central Park, NO.6, 朝阳区日坛北路 4 号 Chaowai Ave. Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝外大街 6 号新城国际 17 栋 101 香江花园店 RIVERA GARDEN STORE TEL: (010) 84701557 \ 84704095 海晟店 SEASONS PARK STORE No.1 Laiguangying East Road, TEL: (010) 64175815 Chaoyang District First floor of Dongchengyishu No.6, 朝阳区来广营东路 1 号 Shizipo Street, Chaoyang District 朝阳区十字坡街 6 号东城逸墅 1 层 建外 SOHO 店 JIANWAI SOHO STORE TEL: (010) 58692326 \ 58692253 逸盛阁店 EAST AVENUE STORE 0413 of Building 4, Jianwai SOHO, TEL: (010) 64602658 No. 39 Middle Dongsanhuan Road, Room 108 ,East Avenue, No.10 Chaoyang District Xindong Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环中路 39 号建外 SOHO4 号 朝阳区新东路 10 号逸盛阁 108 室 楼 0413

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 59 EAT & DRINK | RESTAURANT

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TAFELSPITZ An Austrian at a Spanish Patio Party

words by Oscar Holland, images by Holly Li

If anywhere in Beijing were to qualify as The menu treads a similar path, rotation. By January, many of the above a modern-day concession, it would surely balancing delicate presentation against dishes will have been replaced with new be Nali Patio. With balconies overlooking heartier, homier fare. On the ornate end items. But if our visit is anything to go by, limewashed walls, palm trees and arbitrarily of the spectrum we find the beef tartare Tafelspitz will leave you wondering how placed mosaics, Sanlitun’s favorite courtyard (RMB118) – a perfectly seasoned square of you’ve got by without Austrian food for so is – with enough sunshine and suspended Australian Angus topped with a gooey quail long. It seems the patio party has just got a disbelief – a genuine slice of Iberia. And egg yolk and decorated at each corner with little bit more interesting. while the Spanish are not exempt from local arrangements of arugula, tomato, onion and laws (as in the concessions of old), they flower petals. Yet, formalities are forgotten Daily, 6-11pm (bar 11pm-2am); 4/f, Nali Patio, 81 have established a near monopoly on the for the excellent cordon bleu (RMB258) – Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花 building’s food and drink offerings. the closest that continental Europe comes to 园4层 (5208 6171, www.tafelspitz.cn) But now there is an Austrian in their soul food – which sees Emmental and a thick midst. Recently opened on the fourth slice of ham wrapped inside a veal schnitzel floor, Tafelspitz is the impeccably dressed casing. We resist the temptation to eat it Viennese at a Spanish patio party. It is the with our hands, though we suspect they crisp bottle of Grüner Veltliner in a rack of wouldn’t have minded. fruity Riojas; a Haydn symphony performed Elsewhere, the goose roux soup (from the on the main stage of a Flamenco festival. It set menu – RMB298 for three courses up to stands in stark contrast to its neighbors. But RMB498 for six) comes with root vegetables, this is no bad thing. chunks of goose and a firm bread-crumb Pass through a small, unassuming dumpling which softens as the creamy broth entrance and the distinction is clear from the is poured from above. But perhaps the real outset. White-gloved waiters usher us into surprise arrives for dessert, in the form of an interior of pristine tablecloths and gray a Salzburger Nockerl (RMB138-198, for 2-3 chairs, each curved slightly at the back like people). Like a heaving brown cloud, the a chaise longue. Any feeling of being in the huge Salzburg-style souffle appears fully Mediterranean soon evaporates. Instead, a puffed at the table, begging to be pierced. subtly executed alpine theme adds a certain Doing so reveals a wonderfully light inside, refinement without leaving the decor too balanced by sides of sweet strawberries and cold. Perhaps this is a fitting metaphor for a bittersweet cappuccino ice cream. restaurant that offers fine dining without the Before getting too caught up in the detail, stuffiness that often accompanies the term. we should note that the menu is in regular

60 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM ADVERTORIAL | EAT & DRINK

EATING THROUGH THE WINTER BLUES Foods to Keep you Healthy – and Happy – This Winter

Honestly, sometimes we wish we could hibernate. IMAGE BY HOLLY LI Staying awake through the winter means having to deal with streets of gray snow-sludge, sub-zero temperatures and… don’t get us started on the smog – we’re coughing just thinking about it. So major props to everybody who gets out and exercises despite all this. Seriously, we’re in awe. But let’s be real: most of us stay inside during Beijing’s most brutal months. So how can fair-weather fitness fans emerge from shelter this spring in as good shape as when we entered it? A healthy diet is the best place to start, so we talked to the wellness experts at TRIBE for some seasonal eating tips. “We know the cold weather is perfect for staying indoors and vegetating, but we'd rather you eat some organic vegetables – and meat if you like – then hit the gym like us!” says TRIBE’s Timothy Chia, who adds that it’s extra important to stay healthy amid the deluge of end-of-year parties. “Those gatherings are always filled with an overabundance of tasty, but unhealthy food, and it's easy to go overboard on the food and drink and forget to work out.” (Guilty.) But there’s more to staying healthy than just abstaining from Christmas cookies. There’s science too: During Beijing’s heavy winter smog, less exposure to the sun can lead to a drop in your serotonin levels. That drop, according to Timothy, “can cause depression and food cravings.” So to protect ourselves from the negative effects of smog (in addition to strapping on a mask) we need to make the right food choices. “Aside from loading up on Vitamin D, you can also boost serotonin with whole grains and healthy, high- quality carbs like sweet potatoes and pumpkins,” Timothy explains. He’s just looking out for us, bless him. And in order to keep the good people of Beijing healthy and happy, he and the team at TRIBE have created their own natural serotonin boost: a menu designed to keep you in top form throughout the winter. To achieve this, they combined their nutrition knowledge with the (literal) cooking chops of Shanghai-based chef Edgardo Tanael, who brings years of international experience to his creations. Tanael’s ‘Let's Go Wild Grilled Salmon,’ for instance, has enough Vitamin D from oily salmon to keep you – in Timothy’s words – running “like a well-oiled machine.” Meanwhile, the ‘Bigger 1/2 Marinated Roasted Mexican Chicken Adobo’ packs some serious muscle-building proteins (for all that time you’ll be spending in the gym, right?). And back by popular demand, we also see the return of some old TRIBE favorites already proven to boost serotonin and Vitamin C, such as the ‘Proud to be Pumpkin & Watercress Sushi’ and the ‘My Love for Mushroom & Beets’ grain bowl. Pumpkin, salmon, mushrooms and veggies – how’s that for an appetizing antidepressant? Maybe we won’t hibernate after all. NM

Try healthy organic dishes at TRIBE, see Listings for details

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 61 COMMUNITY COMMUNITY | TIGER FATHER

THE TYRANNY OF CHRISTMAS A Time for Presents and Pressure

by Trevor Marshallsea

“Unlike the bloke whose birthday Christmas celebrates, Santa really is everywhere these days and impossible to escape”

Christmas is a time of giving. And, though My scientific wife isn’t a fan of Santa. This year!” I said, and the girls’ suspicions also my mum told me not to mention this, it’s not - heartens me whenever I’m in her bad books evaporated. physically possible to have “giving” without (“It’s OK. She boos Santa Claus too,” I say) but The next year we got tripped up. We were “receiving.” It’s also a time of eating and drink it did lead to debate about whether we should skiing in Canada for Christmas, and took ing. It’s a time of families getting together and, perpetuate the Santa story with our two- girls. our wrapped presents with us from Beijing. perhaps despite that, of being merry. In the end we did, probably because, unlike We stashed them in corners of our luggage Most of all, though, it’s a time of pressure. the bloke whose birthday Christmas cel that the girls would never find, and when When you’re a kid, having made or bought ebrates, Santa really is everywhere these days they duly found them, several days before some presents for others, you essentially turn and impossible to escape. It is kind of like that Christmas, an interrogation started – of us, up, open your presents, and stuff your face. creepy song coming true, about Him knowing by them. But Christmas reflects life in that the older when you’re sleeping or awake, and precisely “How come the presents are already here you get, the more pressure it involves. how you’ve been behaving. when it’s three days before Santa comes?” When you reach maturity, you’ll feel that they said. pressure to buy a suitably impressive gift for “Um, we knew we’d be going to Canada, so your special someone. Once, when I lived in we had Santa drop them off in Beijing early,” London, my girlfriend had three dozen of my I said, adding, for full Christmas wonder, favorite food – oysters – specially flown in that it necessitated a special shipping and - from France for me. After they arrived I duly handling fee. handed over her present: precisely four bars Phew. They were satisfied again (they re of soap. Oh, and I shouldn’t forget – a card. ally weren’t that bright back then). But, like That was a lesson in how to suck at Christmas. a criminal on the run, I knew our time was But at least she also got a gift that would last almost up. A few months later, our six and forever: an anecdote about lousy boyfriends.- five year olds asked me, suspiciously, if Santa And I’ll plead it’s not as bad as some of the really did exist. Without hesitating, I assured other anecdotes out there, involving steplad them that he most certainly did not. Some ders, an electric drill, a voucher for a camping- parents might mourn a loss of innocence. store, etc. - That decision taken – with some gifts to be I just felt relief. I’ve known some people When you get older still, and become a par credited to Santa and the rest from us – the- who’ve sustained the myth until their kids ent, the pressure peaks. Mostly, there’s pres pressure was on to build the, err, lie. Since were 11 and nine. Sod that. I’d consider that sure to get your stories straight. we live in a Beijing apartment, I made “foot hard work, or what Al Gore might call “An We have kids, we make noble pledges that prints” out of talcum powder for the snowy Inconvenient Lie.” we will never, ever, lie to them. And then effect, all the way from the front door to our Still, some confusion about Christmas we tell them there’s a fat, ageless man who - tree. I left a note, written in my left hand, lingered. Two years later, in our secular inhabits the uninhabitable, and that every thanking the girls for the cookies and beer. At household, I had to explain its origin to- our December 24 he achieves the impossible – fly least those had been genuinely scoffed. seven-year-old youngest. ing around the whole flipping planet with his That exercise delighted the girls, but proved “That’s terrible!” she cried, to my vis magical reindeer, giving presents to everyone. two things: 1. Talcum powder can take up to a ible bafflement. “If Jesus’ birthday was on Even if you take out all the Muslims, whole day to vacuum up. 2. You need a story Christmas Day, he’d only get one present a Buddhists, Hindus, voodoo-ists, etc., who for how Santa gets into a locked apartment. year!” don’t do Christmas, that’s still an immensely (Thankfully our girls were little, so my effort At least, somewhere in that mix up, there steep delivery mission. On one hand, it’s no - of “Umm, aah, magic!” did the trick.) Trevorwas somethingMarshallsea was of athe foreign notion correspondent of giving. in Beijing in wonder Santa does bugger-all for the rest of The following year I got creative, and left the 1990s and returned a decade later. This time around he the year. On the other, it’s just a very hard fa puddles of water, for melted snow, on the - stays at home to grow the kids. Read more of his domestic ble to sustain for kids whose most influential floor. With Beijing’s heating turned up to 11, adventures at www.thetigerfather.com mode of travel involves not flying reindeer but these had evaporated by Christmas morn an information superhighway. ing. “I’m glad Santa tried to be more tidy this

62 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 63 Carsick Cars @ Chao Sao Festival / Gig RP Boo Dj

HEAR

Not only is RP Boo a former foot- work dancer, he’s one of the origi- nators of the musical genre of the This showcase at the Beijing Exhibition Center brings together avant-garde same name. He’s also considered, musicians (including indie-pop favorite Li Xiaoyuan, ’s experimental by many, to have created the first favorite Qiu Bi and the robot-assisted Liang Huan) in what promises to be a songs labeled as ‘Chicago Juke.’ unique celebration of live music and technology. But here’s the real clincher: Enough of the genres. All you need The one-day festival sees the homecoming of iconic Beijing noise rockers to know is that he’ll be dropping Beijing Gang Festival Gig Carsick Cars, the band having spent much of 2015 on tour in Europe and fast, syncopated beats with as many North America. The trio may have matured musically since forming over a nods to hip-hop as house. Oh, sorry, This annual celebration of Beijing’s decade ago, but they still possess the same raw, youthful energy evident in that was more genres. All you really music scene returns for its third standout hits like the cigarette-inspired ‘Zhongnanhai.’ What else are you go- need to know is that RP Boo makes installment with a stacked lineup. ing to be doing on Boxing Day? music for dancing and that’s exactly Featuring some of the city’s most Sat Dec 26, 8pm; RMB200-360 (RMB600 for VIP passes); Beijing Exhibition what he’s been making people do important bands right now, AV Center Theater, 135 Xizhimenwai Dajie, Xicheng 西城区西直门外大街135号 since the early 90s. Okubo and Hedgehog (pictured) are Sat, Dec 5; RMB60; Dada (see among the 10 bands set to perform. Listings for details) Perfume Genius / Gig For those who need a primer on local bands, this is one not to be EB Dj missed. Dec 11-12, 8.30-11pm; RMB150-200 (RMB280 for weekend pass); Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details)

The Drop presents Moresounds DJ

Inner Mongolia is something of a hotbed for hip-hop and EB is among its most prominent artists. Having been born in a tent and While Mao Livehouse usually shakes with the sound of high-octane rock, raised by herdsmen, EB first heard Described as a “master of dub” and things will calm a little with the arrival of Seattle singer-songwriter Mike hip-hop in the early 00s when he “scholar of jungle” (by his official Hadreas (aka Perfume Genius). His haunting, deeply personal ballads address heard Eminem and P Diddy on the bio, anyway), Moresounds is one of difficult topics like sexuality, his personal struggle with Crohn's disease and radio (although rock has proven France’s most exciting underground domestic abuse, with quietly triumphant results. His third album equally influential in his sound). producers. Keep an eye out for a attracted the recognition that the previous two deserved. Co-produced by Uncompromising and performed full interview and ticket giveaway Portishead’s , the record received exclusively positive reviews entirely in Mongolian, this is on our WeChat (username: Thats_ among the 31 featured on Metacritic. That probably says more than we can. Chinese hip-hop at its rawest. Beijing). But what we will say is, be prepared – Hadreas’ music is heartbreaking stuff. Sat Dec 19; RMB80 (presale), Fri Dec 11, 9pm; RMB50; Dada (see Sat Dec 12, 9pm; RMB140 (presale), RMB180 (door); Mao Livehouse (see RMB100 (door); DDC (see Listings Listings for details) Listings for details) for details)

64 DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM Texas Hold’Em for Charity / Event Shuangjing Showdown Sports

DO

Beijing’s baddest amateur fight league is back for Round Three. Shuangjing Showdown pits fighters against each other in boxing, Muay Thai and MMA battles for a show that packs quite the punch (or kick Just because November is over doesn’t mean you can’t still participate in to the head). But this time around The Hutong Winter Maovember, the charity event that, this year, is donating money to prevent the showdown has leapt beyond its Fayre Bazaar and treat blindness in rural China. Tim’s Texas Bar-B-Q is hosting a Texas eponymous ‘hood to Gongti – all Hold’Em tournament with all proceeds going to the charitable cause. An the more convenient for you hutong There’s no better way to get into RMB500 entrance fee gets you into the tourney, as well as six full hours of weasels to reach by bike. the spirit of giving and receiving free-flow drinks, barbecue and snacks. Gambling may be outlawed in the Jing-A is the official (de-)hydrator by popping along to The Hutong Chinese Mainland, but playing for charity doesn’t count, right? of the event, so if fighting’s not your Winter Fayre. The ‘warm-winter’ Sun Dec 6, starts 3pm; Tim’s Texas Bar-B-Q (see Listings for details); to reserve thing, maybe beer is? Pints will be theme means there’ll be plenty your seat call (6591 9161) going for a reduced rate all day long of stuff (think: hot cups of mulled (RMB30 for Mandarin Wheat or wine) to keep you nice and toasty Worker’s Pale Ale, RMB40 for cider). as you browse through locally Public China in Fifty Objects / Tour Food, meanwhile, is brought to you produced goods made and sourced by Shuangjing stalwart Plan B. After from the community. The products the fight, weave and bob your way include homemade jams, teas, over to the Jing-A Taproom, host handicrafts, photography and jew- of the official after party, where elry. A good opportunity to get all you’ll get happy hour prices until your Christmas shopping done (and midnight. spend time with friends and family, Sat Dec 5, noon-5pm; RMB200 pre- we suppose) before the inevitable sale, RMB250 at the door; BabyFace last-minute rush. Make sure you Club, 9 Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳 don’t miss out, as this is pretty 区工体西路6号; see www.shuangjin- much the last Christmas bazaar of gshowdown.com for tickets and the year. information Sat Dec 12, 11am-4pm; free; The Hutong, 1 Jiudaowan Zhongxiang, Dongcheng 东城区九道湾中香1号 Kempinski’s Ice (159 0104 6127) World Sport

Kizomba Workshop Dance

Get your skates on and head down to Kempinski’s Ice World – a unique adventure at the first hotel garden ice rink in Beijing. An entertain- ing winter outdoor activity for the This month is your last chance to Join Newman Tours to explore the human history of China through 50 of whole family, and open for public or get slow and sensual with Migas’ the most celebrated art objects in the National Museum. The new heated private events. Kizomba workshops. Come for the indoor tour examines items such as 4,000-year-old bronzes used in live burials Daily, Dec 1 through Mar 1; one-hour workshop in sexy Angolan through to priceless Buddhist sculptures taken from the Silk Road. Tours must Kempinski Hotel Beijing Lufthansa dance, stay for the equally sexy be booked in advance. Center, 50 Liangmaqiao Lu, drinks by The Bar at Migas. Every Sunday, 2-4pm, RMB120 children, RMB190 adults, National Museum 东 Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路50号 (6465 Tue Dec 5, 9pm; free; The Bar at 城区东长安街16号 (6511 6400) (bookings via 138 1777 0229 or info@newman- 3388 – 4072, booking via Migas (see Listings for details) tours.com) [email protected])

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 65 The Final Star Beef Carpaccio Pizza and Stella Artois / Countdown (Remixed) Holiday Deal Party

TASTE

Jing-A is counting down to the new year with a different deal each hour. From 5-6pm, for example, grab a batch of mala popcorn chicken for half price, and from 9-10pm, Jameson pickleback shots Christmas Eve at Migas Dinner are RMB30. Running until 2am, the party’s got 10 different specials China’s Spanish Embassy (Migas) throughout the night. That’s a lot is having a Christmas Eve blowout, of booze. If you can handle all that and it starts with food. Kick the and are still ready for more, head holiday off with several courses of to Migas for the afterparty – dis- deliciousness. Iberico pork tataki, counted tickets is the last special of rouge foie gras terrine and risotto the night. with dry-aged wagyu beef are all on Thu Dec 31, 4pm-2am; Jing-A the menu. Add a glass (or bottle – it Taproom (see Listings for details) is a holiday, after all) of Anna de Codorniu, at a special price for the The World of Seafood event. Merry Christmas indeed. Or Dinner should that be Feliz Navidad? Thu Dec 24; RMB388 per person; Migas (see Listings for details)

New Year’s Eve at Bistrot B Dinner

If pizza is the star of the Napoli-style restaurant Bottega, then a star-shaped pizza has got to be the brightest of them all. Right? We think so. We sampled Bottega’s new Star Beef Carpaccio Pizza this month, and all we can say is, well, damn. The pizza was made to go along with Stella Artois, which Bottega serves on tap. “Stella means star in Italian,” explains General Manager Daniele Salvo, who will be giving away a free draft Stella with every one of the special pizzas ordered from December 23-29. We tried out the combination in advance, nat- Top Beijing chefs Alexander Sanchez urally. The Star Beef Carpaccio Pizza was bursting with flavors – crunchy aru- If Bistrot B were a person, she’d be (Niajo), Omar Maseroli (Mercante), gula, fresh beef carpaccio and soft mozzarella, all sat atop a fluffy bread crust. a classy lady with elegant taste. and Taka Yamamoto (Sake Manzo) Bottega’s ingredients are imported from Italy and it shows – you simply can’t Her New Year’s Eve dinner is no are joining forces once again for get pizza like this anywhere else in Beijing. We accompanied it with a pint of exception. Dine on elegant risottos, their final collaboration of the year: Stella, and its crisp finish washed down the savory pie to delicious effect. lobsters, arctic shrimps, mussels, a six-course dinner event. ‘The Admittedly, we were feeling greedy. So we washed a few other things pastries… you better believe there’ll World of Seafood’ sees two dishes down, too – gently tossed salads, freshly made gnocchi, pastas. The pizza be truffles. from each chef (specially created may be the star at Bottega (in this case, literally), but that doesn’t mean Thu Dec 31; RMB1,150 per person, around the theme of – you guessed you should stop there. If we’d had longer, we would have munched our way RMB1,450 per person with wine, it – seafood) paired with sake through even more dishes, and probably guzzled a couple more pints, too. plus 15 percent service charge; by Yamamoto, Beijing’s resident The Salvo brothers behind Bottega’s pizza ovens (very expensive and also Bistrot B, 1/2F Rosewood Beijing, Japanese sake master. imported from Italy) take their food seriously. So when these guys recom- Jing Guang Centre, Hujialou, Thu, Dec 3; RMB498 per person; mend a pairing, you know it’s gonna be good. Chaoyang 朝阳区呼家楼京广中心北 Happi Sake (see Listings for details), Available through Dec, RMB128; Bottega, 18 Sanlitun Beilu, (down the alley op- 京瑰丽酒店一层及二层 (6536 0066) for reservations, call (6582 8216) posite Page One), Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路18号 (6416 1752)

66 DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM 3DPRK / Photography Half-way into the Garden Art

SEE

Red Angel Film

Pékin Fine Arts presents 3DPRK, a collection of images from North Korea by Slovenian photographer Matjaz Tancic and Beijing-based DPRK art specialists Koryo Studio. Tancic used a 3D stereoscopic technique to capture intimate photographs Tabula Rasa Gallery invites you to of people from across North Korea. The special collection shows a range of take a stroll through the garden this identities, including ordinary workers, educators, athletes, entertainers in month with a new solo exhibition Hamhung (North Korea’s second largest city) and others from across the coun- by Beijing artist Yuan Yuan. In the try (as well as citizens of the capital, Pyongyang). painter’s first solo exhibition since The second edition of Culture Yard’s It's a slice of North Korea but perhaps not as you know, or assume, it to 2011, she magnifies intimate garden ‘China Through Japanese Eyes’ film be. Offering a rare glimpse into everyday moments not otherwise cataloged, scenes, conveying a part rather than series shows a young Japanese Tancic seeks to “present the actual people I met in North Korea – [who] the whole, to beguiling effect. nurse on the frontlines of the sec- neither fit into the domestic propaganda of a mighty and triumphant North Through Jan 3; free; Tabula Rasa ond Sino-Japanese war in 1939. Korea, nor into the international image of a country that can only be either Gallery, 706 North Third Street, Director Yasuzo Masumura views castigated for its crimes or mocked for its poverty.” An eye-opening exhibition 798 Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, war through a critical lens, show- that’s not to be missed. Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺 ing that it was damaging not only Dec 13–20 Feb; free; Pékin Fine Arts, 241 Caochangdi Village, Chaoyang 朝阳区 术区 706北三街 (5762 6353) to soldiers, but also to lesser-seen 草场地村241号 (5127 3220) groups. Sun Dec 6, 7-10.30pm; RMB50 Giselle Ballet (RMB20 for CY students); Culture TEDxBeijing2015 / Talk Yard (see Listings for details)

Graham Elwood Comedy

As the end of the year approaches, there’s no better time for a bit of intro- American comic Graham Elwood spective education. TEDxBeijing has got you covered with its annual year-end Performed by the National Ballet of may be in town for just one night, event, complete with 10 expert speakers covering a range of subjects includ- China, Giselle is set in two contrast- but it’s set to be a rollicking one. ing the linguistics of music, the future of urban farming, women’s health, ing worlds: The simple underwater Featured on Comedy Central’s The sustainable economic development, design and cutting-edge tech. Here are life of ocean creatures and the Sarah Silverman Program and The our picks of the speakers: glitzy lifestyle of humans. This clas- Late Late Show on CBS, the comedi- Stuart Oda: Co-founder of Alesca Life, a company promoting green farming sic ballet was created to celebrate an has a second-degree yellow belt by growing 100 percent pesticide-free food in shipping containers. the bicentenary of Hans Christian in karate, which apparently means Helen Hai: United Nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO) Anderson’s birth. John Neumeler’s he “has the strength and skill to Goodwill Ambassador for industrialization in Africa, as well as CEO of the modern interpretation of the tale is fight a puppy and the elderly.” Safe Made in Africa Initiative. a fitting tribute to the Danish poet. to say Elwood’s show will make Dr. Tian Jishu: An obstetrician engaged in clinical practice for nearly 10 The Little Mermaid redux. laugh, not war. years, whose books are among the best sellers in China. He will speak about Dec 4-6; RMB280-1280; Opera House Thu Dec 3, 8pm; RMB180 at the the implications of the updated Two Child Policy. of NCPA, 2 West Chang'an Ave, door, RMB100 students, RMB150 Sun Dec 6, 2-6pm; RMB100 (presale); RMB280; 5/F Building C, The Place Xicheng 西城区西长安街2号 (tickets presale; The Bookworm (see Listings (Cosmopolitan Plaza), 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路甲9号世贸天阶C available via sales@theatrebeijing. for details) 座时尚大厦5层 (tickets available tedxbeijing.com) com)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 67 Happy hours Meal deals WEEKLY SPECIALS Brunch Ladies' nights Food and Drink

Palms L.A. Kitchen and Bar

The origins of the ‘Power Hour’ are murky. Probably because whoever invented the Power Hour forgot how they invented it. For those non-North Americans unfamiliar with the term, Power Hours are essentially studies in mindful, focused binge-drinking. They are a one-way ticket to drunktown. The way it works is this: For one hour, you take a shot of beer every 60 seconds. Preferably you switch the song every 60 seconds, too, from one cheesy 90s throwback to the next, but hey, that part’s up to you. In the UK it’s called ‘Centurion’, but it’s 100 minutes rather than 60, because Brits can handle it, apparently. Does this appeal to you? Great, it does to Palms, too. The L.A.-style bar and restaurant offers one of the best happy hour deals in town for its Power Hour Fridays. Fortunately, there are two ways their version differs from the American college one: you don’t have to take forced shots of shitty beer, and the deals last longer than an hour. Rather, grab buy-one-get-one cocktails, as well as RMB15 shots, from 5.30-6.30pm and 9-10pm. Don’t be fooled by the fact that it’s a restaurant. Palms is one of the greatest drinking spots in town. The margaritas are especially killer – try the coconut or tamarind one for a welcomed twist on a classic. > Every Friday, 5.30-6.30pm; Palms L.A. Kitchen and Bar (at both locations, see Listings for details)

MONDAY to FRIDAY

MONDAY Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 Pebbles Mosaic 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6140 5230) Just RMB10 per taco – order as many as Buy-one-get-one-free pizza every Mai Bar you want. Wednesday lunchtime at Mosaic. Buy two cocktails, get one free. Agua > Midday to midnight; 74 Wudaoying > Daily 12pm-2am; 32 S. Sanlitun St > 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区 Agua’s new set lunch menu is RMB118/ Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同74 (Behind/North of Yashow Silk Market), 北锣鼓巷40号 (138 1125 2641) person for three courses. 号 (8404 0767) Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南32号楼临街店 > RMB118/person, Mon-Fri, 12pm- TUESDAY TO FRIDAY (137 1883 7065) MONDAY TO THURSDAY 2:30pm, Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那 S.T.A.Y Restaurant Xian XIU 里花园4楼D308号 (5208 6188 ) Three courses including coffee and tea Whiskey night, discounts on special Buy-one-get-one-free on selected drinks, for RMB388/person with 15 percent selected whiskeys. 6-9pm. Greyhound Café service charge, 11.30am-2.30pm. > All night, 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, > 6/F, Park Hyatt Beijing, 2 Jianwai Dajie, Only RMB28 for a Tsingtao or Bud, and > Level 1, Valley Wing, Shangri-La Hotel, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号1层 (8414 Chaoyang 北京柏悦酒店, 朝阳区建国门外 RMB38 for a mojito or dry martini, 5-7pm. 29 Zizhuyuan Lu, Haidian 海淀区紫竹院路 9810) 大街2号6楼 (8567 1108) > Greyhound Cafe (see listings for 29号香格里拉酒店1层 (6841 2211-6727) details) MONDAY TO FRIDAY THURSDAY Village Café WEDNESDAY One East Set Lunch, RMB98+15% (3 courses), Great Leap Brewing Domain Two-course set lunch: RMB118/ per RMB88+15% (2 courses) All day Wednesday, one select beer at Happy Burger’s Day, 2 for 1 Burger person, 12:00-2:30pm. > 11.30am-2.30pm, Bldg 1, The Opposite RMB25. promotion. 2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dong Fang Road, House, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳 > At Number 6 Courtyard branch, (see > 10.30am-2pm, 2/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, North Dong Sanhuan Road, Chaoyang 区三里屯路11号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 listings for details) Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号2层 (8414 朝阳区东三环北路东方路一号北京希尔顿 5210) 9830) 酒店2层 5865 5030 Mao Mao Chong Cocktails RMB35, 7-11pm. Opus Terrace Great Leap Brewing MONDAY TO SATURDAY > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Ladies enjoy free cocktails; on Fridays, it’s 11.30am-2pm, free soft drink or juice Twilight Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区交道口南大街板 bachelors night, where chaps get 50 percent with any burger or salad or add RMB5 Mon-Sat before 8pm and all day Sun, 厂胡同12号 (6405 5718) off beer and burgers at the same times, 5-8pm. for a Pale Ale #6. RMB20 off cocktails. > Opus Bar & Terrace, 48 Liangmaqiao > At Xinzhong Lu branch only, (see > 0102, 3/F, Bldg 5, Jianwai SOHO, 39 Elements Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路48号 Listings for details) Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝 Free mojitos, champagne and cosmos, (5695 8888) 阳区东三环39号建外SOHO5号3层0102室 9pm-1am. Hagaki (5900 5376) > 58 Gongti Xi Men, Chaoyang 朝阳区工 Set lunch, 11.30am-3pm, Bento style FRIDAY 体西门58号 (6551 2373) lunch set from RMB58 with no service Mesh charge. TUESDAY House Champagne buy 1 bottle get 1 5-10pm, Daiginjo Sake promotion, 4Corners Flamme Ladies get 15 percent off red wine. free. RMB550 / 150 Bottle / Carafe. Two-for-one steak all day. cheap shots and drink deals at 4Corners’ > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 > 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳 > 3/F, S4-33 Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun weekly celebration of KTV. Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 区酒仙桥路22号1层 8414 9815 Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯 > Dashibei Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区石 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5220) 太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608) 杯胡同7号 (6401 7797) Jing Yaa Tang Set lunch, RMB88/person, 4 for 3. > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11

68 DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM CITY SCENES Tennis superstar Li Na poses with China General Manager of Pierre Fabre and a very happy school prin- cipal, recipient of funds from the stars' Avene x Elle charity dinner

Sunglass-wearing ladies-who-lunch entirely too cool for the dads behind You know that feeling you get when the fleeting nature of human existence them at EAST Beijing’s Halloween brunch just, like, hits you? This dude at Jing-A’s Halloween Beer Mile does

A Marriott International Tianjin Cluster GCAW event in the Renaissance Leather-cowl-neck-vest-wearing DJs are the best DJs, or so proves DJ D’Jack at Tianjin Lakeview Hotel kicks off in style the China World Hotel’s Thursday Lush Ladies Night at Aria Bar

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 69 Expensive...... ¥ Expense Account ...... ¥¥ Highly Recommended ...... * LISTINGS Top Ten ...... ** Dong guarantees slick cuts of Beijing-style OPEN DOOR RESTAURANT roast duck and delectable wrap fillings. The venue’s a class act and the plum sauce is The Hot One Hundred hard to follow. About This guide represents our editors’ > Daily 11am-10pm; 22 Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四十条甲22号 (5169 0328); see www.dadon- top 100 picks, and includes some That’s gdadong.com for more locations Beijing advertisers. Restaurants rated(*) have been personally reviewed by our Duck de Chine 全鸭季 ¥ * experts, and scored according to the Good duck is meant to show your guests cuisine, experience and affordability. how wonderful you are, as much as the food. Duck De Chine does that in spades, with fantastic presentation of its crispy, CHINESE succulent duck (RMB188). > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm; Courtyard 4, Contemporary & Mixed Cuisine 1949 The Hidden City, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝 阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 8881) > 98 Jinbao Jie, 8 Qi Nian 祈年8号 (/Sichuan) Dongcheng 东城区金宝街98号 (6521 2221) The New World Hotel’s flagship restaurant has classic Chinese cuisine in abundance, The Horizon 海天阁 (Cantonese Beijing as well as some vitality-restoring medicinal Duck) ** soups. (Their decent wine list is just as Kerry Hotel’s Chinese restaurant has effective.) widened its predominantly Cantonese > Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:15pm, 5:30-9:30pm, Sat/Sun and Sichuan horizons to include dim sum, 12-2:45pm, 5:30-9:30pm; 2/F, New World Hotel, 8 double-boiled soups and Peking duck – and Qinian Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区祈年大街8号新世界 the roast bird here really is fabulous. 酒店2层 (5960 8822) > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5:30pm-10pm 1/F, Beijing Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路 Bellagio 鹿港小镇 (Taiwanese) 1号嘉里中心1层 (8565 2188) A favorite among the city’s hip and young, this swanky Taiwanese restaurant chain is Shanghai the place for mountainous shaved ice des- serts and creamy bubble teas. Shanghai Min 小南国 > 11am-11pm; 6 Gongti Xilu Chaoyang 工体西路6 Many swear this chain has the best 号 (6551 3533) see www.bellagiocafe.com.cn for Shanghai-style hongshaorou north of the more locations Yangtze. The jury’s out, but its popularity remains. Din Tai Fung 鼎泰丰 ¥ (Taiwanese) > 0505, 5/F Raffles City Mall, 1 Dongzhimen Nan This Taipei-based franchise impressed Ken Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门南大街1号来福士 Hom enough to call it one of the best 10 购物中心5楼0505号铺 (400 820 9777)> Additional eateries in the world, back in 1993. Famous branches in Financial Street; Jinbao Jie; Oriental for its dependably delicious xiaolongbao Plaza; Sanlitun Soho; Xinyuan Nan Lu (see www. or little steam buns. Book ahead, there’s online.thatsmags.com for details) always a long wait. > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-10pm, weekends Wang Jia Sha 王家沙 11.30am-10pm; 24 Middle Street, Xinyuanxili, Modern Shanghai cuisine – popular with Chaoyang 朝阳区新源西里中街24号 (近渔阳饭店) Hong Kong celebrities – famed for its crab- (6462 4502) > Additional branches in Shin Kong meat dumplings. Try the spiced-salt ribs Place; Parkview Green; Grand Pacific Mall Xidan; (RMB62) for a bit of Adam action. Modern Plaza Zhongguancun; see www.dintaifung. > Daily, S1-30a Taikoo Li Sanlitun (on the third floor com.cn for details of i.t shop) 朝阳区三里屯路19号院太古里1号楼3层 S1-30a号商铺 (6416 3469) No 16 Courtyard 后海16号 (Beijing) Houhai No. 16 is a courtyard restaurant in Sichuan/Hunan Houhai, specializes in dishes once served for the government in the imperial times, Chuan Ban 川办 * with customizable menus. This bright, modestly decorated dining hall ¥380/person (without drinks)Open: is frequently cited as Beijing’s best Sichuan 11.30am-9pm restaurant. > D4, Dajin Hutong. Xicheng District, 西城区后海 > Mon-Fri 7-9am, 10.50am-2pm, 4.50-9.30pm; Sat- 大金丝胡同4号 010-83226461,13716551797 www. Sun 7am-10pm; 5 Gongyuan Toutiao, Jianguomennei houhai16.com Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区建国门内贡院头条5号 (6512 2277, ext. 6101) Jing Yaa Tang 京雅堂 (Chinese, Peking Duck) Karaiya Spice House 辣屋 * Resembling something between a night- Bold and fiery Hunan cuisine in the most club and a theater, the Opposite House’s serene of restaurant interiors. Don’t miss basement restaurant proves to be more the dry roasted duck with a dozen spices than just style over substance with their and stir fried bullfrog with shiso leaves and range of expertly prepared classic dishes. ginger. Peanut milk is there to soothe the > Daily 12-10:30pm, B1/F, The Opposite House, palate: you’ll need it. Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号 > Daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-10pm; 3/F, Sanlitun 楼瑜舍酒B1楼 (6410 5230) Taikoo Li South, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里19号 院南区三层S9-30 (6415 3535) HERITAGE Wu Li Xiang 屋里香 (Cantonese, Sichuan) * South Memory 望湘园 Impressive views don’t detract from the This restaurant chain is the Hunan staple Fit for a (French) King exquisitely presented cuisine of Chef Kam, in the capital. The trademark shilixiang especially the dim sum. Swanky classics niurou (fragrant beef), duojiao shuangse If you’re going to spend your Sunday afternoon brunching, you might as well from all the main culinary regions of China, yutou (dual-colour spiced fish head) and meltingly tender frog dishes are among the do so lavishly, right? including, of course, “Monk Jump Over the Wall” – braised pork in oyster sauce. favorites with locals. Heritage French Restaurant at the Sofitel Wanda Beijing does just that. On > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm; 2-3/F, Traders Upper > Daily 11am-10pm; 2/F, 230-232, Fenglian Plaza, 18 Chaoyangmen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街 our visit, not only was there a trio of classically-trained string instrumentalists East Hotel, Beijing, 2 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东四环北路2号北京上东盛贸饭店二三层 18号丰联广场2楼230-232号 (6588 1797); see www. playing elegant tunes, but there was also a table of champagnes. Yes, we just (5907 8406) southmemory.com for more locations said table of champagnes. This is serious brunching. Yipin 一品 (Huaiyang) * Yuxiang Renjia 渝乡人家 Fortunately, the food is serious too. We feasted on Japanese scallops with The Sofitel Beijing’s boutique Chinese res- The menu here is old-fashioned and caviar, foie gras rougie and fantastic Maine lobsters, all while nibbling on fresh taurant, Yipin is a beautifully thought-out reliably good. The lazi ji is crispy but not too greasy, the pepper-sauce noodle, with croissants between each course. Heritage takes its French food seriously, so conflux of all that is elegant, traditional and tasty. Huaiyang cuisine headlines the menu, spinach, is filling and refreshing. Assorted expect delicate, exquisite flavors paired with attentive service. And champagne. so expect sweet and delicate and sweet confections are guaranteed to comfort numbed-and-burned tongues, too. Did we mention the champagne? flavors with impeccable presentation. > Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 > Daily 11am-2pm, 5-9pm 5/F, Lianhe Dasha (Union Ultimately, Heritage’s Allure Sunday Brunch makes for a great way to relax Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号 万达广场C Plaza), 20 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳 away the afternoon. And that’s exactly what we did. 座索菲特酒店 (8599 6666) 区朝阳门外大街20号联合大厦五层 (6588 3841) see www.yuxiangrenjia.com for other locations Peking Duck > Sundays, 11.30am-3pm; RMB328 for five courses (RMB238 for wine pairings), Yu Xin 渝信川菜 Open since 1993, Yu Xin’s authentic Sichuan RMB418 for eight courses (RMB318 for wine pairings); Heritage, Sofitel Wanda Da Dong 大董 Among the city’s most famous haunts, Da dishes have earned a loyal fanbase. Their Beijing (see Listings for details) liangfen – a jelly-like substance cut into

70 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM LISTINGS chunky strips and dressed in an addictive Regional spicy sauce – hits the spot. The rustic, inti- OPEN DOOR mate setting of bamboo cubicles and swift, Crescent Moon (Xinjiang) * friendly service complete the experience. Roast mutton enthusiasts go over the > Daily 11am-10pm; 5A Xingfu Yicun Xili, Chaoyang moon at this reputable Xinjiang Muslim 朝阳区幸福一村西里甲5号 see www.yuxin1997.com restaurant. Eastern European and Central for other locations. Asian influences are evident throughout, with peppery and cumin-spiced dishes Transit 渡金湖 ¥¥ ** livening up traditional Chinese favorites. Sichuan is known for its blazing spices and > Daily 10am-11:30pm; 16 Dongsi Liutiao, its equally hot girls. While the latter are up Dongcheng 东四六条16号 (6400-5281) to you, the creative minds at Transit have made some fiery additions to the classical, Da Gui (Guizhou) chili-thumping canon, and they will charge Guizhou’s famed hot-and-sour cuisine nes- you for that knowledge. But unlike many tled into a charming traditional alleyway. equally expensive joints, this is high-end Munch happily into pickled greens and Chinese dining at its best. don’t miss the salty-sweet deep-fried black > Daily 12-2.30pm, 6 -10pm; N4-36, Sanlitun Taikoo Li sesame balls. They’re sensational. North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 > Daily 10am-2pm, 5-10pm; 69 Daxing Hutong, 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090) Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng 东城区交道口大兴胡同69 号 (6407 1800) Yunnan Makye Ame (Tibetan) Dali Courtyard 大里院子 * Determined to prove that Tibetan cuisine LI HOLLY BY PHOTOS If you like authentic Yunnanese food, you’ll consists of more than just yak-butter tea, have to trust the staff: there’s no menu, it the Beijing branch of this nationwide chain all just arrives in an intimate courtyard set- serves up nomadic classics such as curried DK1308 ting. The price (RMB120/person) matches potatoes and roast lamb. the rustic ingredients. > Daily 10-midnight; 11A Xiushui Nanjie, > Daily 12-2pm, 6-10.30pm; Gulou Dong Dajie, 67 Jianguomenwai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外秀水南街 Winter Feasting, German Style Xiaojingchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大 甲11号 (6506 9616) 街小经厂胡同67号 (8404 1430) ShiChengJi Shaobing 实诚吉烧饼 The arrival of a new season (winter, if you hadn’t noticed) means the arrival of Hani Gejiu 哈尼个旧 ¥ If ever a food were able to alleviate life’s a new seasonal beer from DK1308’s brewmaster Andreas Roehrl, whose family Somthing about Gulou makes it the perfect difficulties – however temporarily – then district for Yunnan food, and this little gem this is surely it. In one bite, these beef shao- developed the recipes over 300 years ago. While his new creation is fermented is up their with the best. Contender for bing will remind you exactly why you first in the style of a wheat beer, it actually combines three grains (wheat, rye and friendliest service in town. chose to live in Beijing. They’re that good. barley malt). And to complement the amber, 5.5 percent alcohol brew, Chef > Mon-Sat 11am-10pm; 46 Zhonglouwan Hutong, Queues of locals are testament. Dongcheng 东城区钟楼弯胡同46号 (6401 3318) > Daily 7am-7pm; 43 Dongsi Liutiao, Dongcheng 东 Daniel Kuttner has prepared a special winter menu. 城区东四六条43号 (186 1029 5038) Lost Heaven 花马天堂 (Yunnan, SE Asian) Start with a mixed salad with crispy pumpernickel crumble, walnuts, Xinjiang Red Rose (Xinjiang) * poached pear and orange dressing, followed by the Brussels sprout soup with One of Beijing’s most famous Xinjiang bacon bits. Next up are hearty mains, which include a tender seared leg of veni- restaurant, Red Rose serves some of the tenderest lamb skewers around, matched son under rye crust with cranberry sauce, spaetzle noodles and carrot mousse; by enormous servings of classics like da- glazed duck breast with honey sauce, pommes macaire and red cabbage; and panji (a chicken, potato and pepper stew), truffled Tyrolean rye dumpling filled with potato, cheese and chives, served latiaozi (noodles with a spicy tomato sauce) and nang (baked flatbrea). with creamy spinach. No German feast is complete without a sweet, and the > Daily 10.30am-11pm; Inside 7 Xingfuyicun, oppo- Iced Christmas Stollen parfait with rum-marinated fruits hits the spot. Prost! site Workers’ Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区 工人体育场北门对面幸福一村7巷内 (6415 5741) > Prices TBC; Available until the end of January 2016; DK1308 (see Listings for details) WESTERN Fine Dining

Aria ¥¥ (European) * A gold standard of opulence and, at RMB1,100 for the Wagyu beef and starters around RMB150, the prices reflect that. An emphasis on Yunnan characterizes this In-house sommeliers help tailor your meal menu’s fresh journey through the SE Asia perfectly. passage, with a grandiose yet dark teak > Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-midnight; Sat-Sun interior. 6-10pm; 2/F China World Hotel, 1 Jianguomenwai Waidajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街 (6505 > Daily noon-2pm, 5pm-10.30 (bar open till 1am). 2266 ext. 36) Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng 东城区前门东大街23号(8516 2698) Barolo ¥¥ (Italian) * Middle 8th Restaurant 中八楼 * Average Italian abounds in Beijing: not Hip and slightly swanky, without being pre- here, though. Quite the opposite, in fact, tentious, this is a celebration of all things meaning Barolo is as well-regarded as the ‘south of the clouds’ – so try crisp-fried Piedmont wine it is named after. worms, or “crossing-the-bridge” noodles, > Mon-Sun 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm. Ritz Carlton Hotel, China Central Place, 83A Jianguo Lu, beef jerky-style yak meat and fresh, wild Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路甲83号华贸中心丽思卡尔顿 herbs galore. 酒店内 (5908 8151) > The Place Branch: Daily 11am-11pm, L404A, South Tower, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝 Brasserie Flo ¥¥ (French) * 阳区光化路9号世贸天阶南楼L404A (6587 1431) > Marble slabs, mosaic floors and brass Additional venues in Sanlitun; Taikoo Li Mall; Indigo Mall (see www.middle8th.com for details) fittings establish the Parisian bona fides; dishes like snails (RMB78), oysters (RMB48 BLUE FROG Yun’er Small Town 云洱小镇 each) and steak tartare (RMB158) confirm. Folksy and affordable Yunnanese fare on The grandeur is matched only by the ser- Hop on Over Beiluoguxiang. Fragrant dishes including vice, and the prices reflect the authenticity the jasmine bulbs with scrambled eggs, of the experience. lemongrass shrimp, and banana leaf > Daily 11am-midnight; 18 Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang 朝 We probably don’t have to tell you about Blue Frog – you already know. The wrapped bolete mushrooms will keep us 阳区霄云路18号 (6595 5135) popular burger joint has been churning quality patties and fries for years now. crawling back. Capital M ¥ (Contemporary Western) ** > Daily 10am-11pm, 84 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng And who doesn’t love Blue Frog’s Monday deal? (If you don’t know, it’s buy- 东城区北锣鼓巷84号 (8404 2407) The Art Deco interior, swish staff and one-get-one burgers. You’re welcome.) breathtaking views over the archery towers But just because Blue Frog’s a Beijing classic doesn’t mean the place isn’t Dumplings from Qianmen ensures the pinnacle of al-fresco dining, with world-class modern keeping it fresh. We sampled their new menu, and we absolutely loved the Baoyuan Jiaoziwu 宝源饺子屋 European stylings and deliciously posh new BBQ & Avocado Burger (RMB108). The Australian-beef patty is as rich and Famous for their rainbow of dyed dump- afternoon tea. lings, Baoyuan have their jiaozi (six, under > Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Floor 3, 2 Qianmen tender as ever, but it’s given a bit more of a refreshingly healthy twist with the RMB10) wrapped in a larger yuanbao Buxingjie, Dongcheng 东城区前门步行街2号3层 (6702 2727) avocado (at least we think the avocado makes it more healthy... right?). silver-ingot shape, with creative vegetarian An undeniably healthy option is the Pepper Seared Tuna Nicoise Salad options and authentic Sichuan food. Héritage ¥¥ > Daily 11am-10pm; north of 6 Maizidian Jie, (RMB108), which is rich in Omega-3 fatty acids and low-fat protein. It’s a nutri- Chaoyang 朝阳区麦子店街6号楼北侧 (6586 4967) A French country-style chateau in the heart of Beijing. A chef de cuisine with tious take on the traditional French-style Nicoise. But if you’re not looking for Mr Shi’s Dumplings 老石饺子馆 Michelin star restaurant experience and an healthy – and hey, we don’t judge – add the succulent beef sliders for RMB88.. Since recieving a Lonely Planet recommen- extensive wine cellar make this Sofitel Hotel > Daily, 10am-late; In Sanlitun: S2-30, Level 3, S2 Tower, 19 Sanlitun Road, dation the prices have risen and the walls restaurant one of the best French dining are covered in backpackers’ scribbles, but experiences in town. Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号 三里屯太古里南区三楼S2-30 (6417 4030); In the fantastic dumplings – boiled and fried – > 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, Chaoyangmen: 1/F, Bldg 1, U-Town, Sanfeng Beili, Chaoyang 朝阳区三丰北 are still fantastic. 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号 万达广 场C座索菲特酒店6层 (8599 6666) 里悠唐生活广场1号楼1层(8561 2665); In Guomao: 15-16, 1/F, Bldg AB, Ocean > 74 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同74号 (8405 International Center, 10 Jingtong Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区金桐西路10号远洋光 0399, 131 6100 3826) Mio ¥¥ Glitzy Italian fare at the Four Seasons, with 华国际中心AB座1层15-16单元(8590 3168); In Indigo Mall: 167, 1/F, Indigo, 18 a mobile Bellini cart, wheeled straight Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区颐堤港店酒仙桥路18号1层167号(8426 0017)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 71 to your table. Chef Marco Calenzo crafts Stuff’d (Contemporary Western) MOKA Bros (Contemporary Western) * Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路14号秀水 a superb squash tortellini by hand, and The concept of Stuff’d is to simply stuff Power bowls, salads and wraps are the kind 2号院 (6591 9161) pampers diners with desserts like the one kind of food in another. From sausage of fare on offer at this trendy Nali Patio deconstructed tiramisu. calzone pizzas (RMB68) to scotch eggs – it space, which also has a great selection of Union Bar and Grill >Daily, lunch 11:30am - 2:30pm, dinner 5:30pm all works. On-site micro brewery a bonus. cakes and pastries if you’re feeling more The definitive US-style diner in Beijing, -10:30pm Four Seasons Hotel, 48 Liangmaqiao Lu, > Wed-Mon, 11:30am-2:45pm, 6-10pm, 9 Jianchang indulgent. Union’s extensive menu – from eggs Chaoyang, 北京四季酒店 亮马桥路48号, 朝阳区 Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区箭厂胡同9号 (6407 6308) > Sanlitun: Sun-Thu 11am-10:30pm, Fri/Sat 11am- Benedict to baby back ribs – covers all (5695 8888) 11:30pm, B101b Nali Patio South, 81 Sanlitun Beilu bases and hours, served by friendly staff. VIC Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号B101B南楼 (5208 The warm atmosphere tempts many to S.T.A.Y. ¥¥ (French) Not to be confused with the notorious 6079) > Solana: Solana Lakeside Dining Street, 6 stay all day. Luxury dining with three-Michelin-starred nightclub of the same name, this VIC is Chaoyang Park Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区湖畔美食街 > Mon-Fri 11am-11pm, Sat/Sun 11am-midnight; S6- chef, Alléno Yannick’s, back-to-basics the Sofitel Beijing’s casual dining restau- 朝阳公园路6号院 蓝色港湾 (5905 6259) 31, 3/F, Bldg 6, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun kitchen concept, which includes a mouth- rant. All the major world cuisines are in Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区 watering ‘pastry library’. Classic dishes attendance here – make you pay special Ricci 6号楼3层S6-31 (6415 9117) usually include dishes such as steak, foie attentions to the French-inspired breads Named after a 17th century Italian Jesuit gras, rack of lamb, plus a spit roast and grill and pastries – as is the customary Sunday (duh), this creative café has a funky, kooky- The Woods * for international standard fine-dining. champagne brunch. meets-organic vibe and serves up some of > Daily 11:30am-2:30pm; 5:30pm-10pm; Sundays > Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 the best casual western food in town, and 11am- 4pm. Shangri La, Valley Wing, Level 1, 29 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号 万达广场C a great brunch at the Wudaokou location Zizhuyuan Road, Haidian 海淀区紫竹院路29号北京香 座索菲特酒店6层 (8599 6666) (Chaoyang branch closed weekends). 格里拉饭店 (6841 2211, Ext. 6727) > 1/F, Building D, Tsinghua Science Park, 1 Yi House (Contemporary Western) Zhongguancun Donglu, Haidian 海淀区中关村东路1 Temple Restaurant Beijing (TRB) ¥¥ Nestled in the confines of 798, Yi’s great 号院清华科技园D座1楼 8215 8826 ) (Contemporary Western) ** tasting brunch is bettered only by their Setting is everything here, especially if wide range of cocktails. Sundays offer jazz The Rug (Contemporary Western, it’s fashioned inside a restored Buddhist brunches with lobster and champagne. Organic) * temple. The bold contemporary European > Daily 11am-3pm, 6pm-12am; 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798 With ingredients supplied by local organic cuisine is fitting in majesty and the service Yishu Qu, No.1 706 Houjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥 farms like Dahe and De Run Wu, and an alone is worthy of worship. 路2号院798艺术区706后街1号 (6436 1818) emphasis on sustainability, this café’s wide > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10pm; 23 Songzhusi ranging menu has something for everyone, Temple, Shatan Beijie, Dongcheng 东城区沙滩北街嵩 Café/Deli/Sandwich especially green types, bored foreign moms 祝寺23号 (8400 2232) and freelance Macbook types. Beiluo Bread Bar (Café) > Mon-Fri 7.30am-10:30pm, Sat/Sun 9:30am- Contemporary Western This local hipster café favorite offers in- 10:30pm; Bldg 4, Lishui Jiayuan, Chaoyang house baked bread and sandwiches but Gongyuan Nanlu (opposite Chaoyang Park South Alfie’s ¥ (British) Gate), Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园南路丽水嘉园4 we usually go for the hand-pulled noodles. New York native-owned, Manhattan-style What’s all this about, then? British gastro- 号楼(朝阳公园南门对面) (8550 2722) > Additional Gets cozy at night. restaurant, tucked in amongst the skyscrap- pub classics, (like pukker fish and chips, location in Sanlitun Nan Jie (see online.thatsmags. > Tue-Sun 12-10pm. 70A Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng ers of CBD: you can’t get more Big Apple RMB188), a swanky gentleman’s club 东城区北锣鼓巷甲70号(近南锣鼓巷)(8408 3069) com for details) than that. interior, and located in a chic modern art > Daily 12pm-10pm, Central Park Tower 1, Suite 101, gallery-cum-mall. That’s what, mate. Café Zarah (Café) * TRIBE * Salads, wraps and sandwiches, and noodle No. 6 Chaowai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街6号 > Daily, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, brunch served A smart new interior and menu for this 新城国际1号搂101 (6533 6380) on weekends; Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, longstanding cafe has propelled it from and grain bowls are as tasty as they are holistic, and there are more superfoods in Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号芳草地L1-22 (5662 hipster hangout to Gulou institution. Large, Burgers 8777) airy and with a terrace for summer, the only one single dish than we even knew existed. Come hungry, leave basking in the warm, downside is it’s always packed. Blue Frog Caribeño (Latin) glow that comes from knowing that you > Daily 9.30am-midnight 42 Gulou Dongdajie, This Shanghai hamburger franchise has Heavy Cuban influence, but there are dishes are eating well. Kombucha is the icing on Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街42号 (8403 9807) been keeping Americans in China obese from all over the Latin continent here. The the (organic, locally-sourced) cake. since it opened. Monday’s burger deal is Ropa Vieja (shredded beef on potato) is > Daily 8am-10.30pm, 1/F, Building 3, China View Café Flatwhite always packed. excellent – as are the Mojitos. Plaza, 2A Gongti Dong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工 > Daily 10.00am-late. Sanlitun: Level 3, S2 Tower, > Daily 11:30am-9:30pm, 1/F, China Overseas Plaza, 体东路甲2号中国红街大厦3号楼1层大厅入口南侧 S2-30 Taikoo Li, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯 8 Guanghua Dongli, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华东里8号中 8587 1899 路太古里3层S2-30 (6417 4030) Additional branches 海广场北楼1层 (5977 2789) Wagas (Contemporary Western) in Jiuxianqiao and U-Town (see online.thatsmags. com for details) Chi (Organic, Fusion) Quality eats with minimal pretension. This Hutong set-menu dining par-excellence, stylish, no-fuss Shanghai rival to Element Burger Bar with organic ingredients all locally sourced. Fresh offers some of the best and most Don’t be fooled by the American diner-style From the owners of neighboring Saffron. affordable Western lunch options in town. interior, Burger Bar’s pedigree of bap > Daily, opens 10:30am, last order 9:30pm, 67 The zesty carrot-and-zucchini cake is a fillings include wagyu beef, foie gras and Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同 crowd pleaser. truffles. Burger King this ain’t. 67号 (6445 7076) > Daily 8am-10pm; S8-33, 3/F, Bldg 8, Taikoo Li > Sun-Thu 11:30am-10pm, Fri/Sat 11:30am-mid- South, 19 South Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区三 night, B2/F, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Road 里屯太古里南区三层 (6416-5829) > Additional loca- C Pearl (Oysters, Seafood) ¥ * Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号侨福芳草地大厦地下二 tions in The Kerry Centre, Raffles Mall Dongzhimen This slick oyster restaurant imports fresh 层 ( 5690 7000) shells from Canada, South Africa, France, (see www.online.thatsmags.com for details) USA and more – and they are well worth Chef Too ¥ the price. The fries are the best we’ve had American/BBQ/Grill With its crisp white tablecloths and service, in Beijing, beer and wine selection also this upscale New York diner serves up some excellent. Hailing from New Zealand, Café Flatwhite The Big Smoke * Taking the Home Plate BBQ concept and of the classiest burgers in town. > Tue-Sun 5.30pm-2am; 14-2, Bldg 14, Shunyuanli, uses fresh and healthy ingredients in its > Tue-Fri 11am-1pm; Sat-Sun 9.30am-3pm; Tue-Sat Xinyuan Jie, Yansha Qiao, Chaoyang 朝阳区燕莎桥新 tasty selection of sandwiches, pizzas, salads upscaling was a gourmet masterstroke. Full 5.30pm-10pm. Opposite the West gate, Chaoyang 源街顺源里14号楼14-2号 (5724 5886) and brunch options, all served alongside menu evenings only (also delivers rotisserie Park, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园西门 (6591 8676) some of the best coffee in Beijing. chicken via Uncle Otis). Grill 79 (Steak) > Open Daily, Mon-Fri 8am-9pm, Sat-Sun 9am-9pm; > Daily Mon-Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am-10pm. Steak With views this good, Grill 79 would prob- 1 Sanlitun Soho Store: B1-239, Building 2, Sanlitun First Floor, Lee World Building (opposite Frost Nails), ably make it onto the list even if the food SOHO, 8 Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北 57 Xingfucun Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村 29 Grill (Contemporary Western) * was terrible. It’s something of a bonus then 路8号院, 三里屯SOHO, 2号楼B1-239 (5785 3762 中路 57号楼利世楼 (6416 5195, 6416 268, www. uncle-otis.com) Top-notch steak, along with just about eve- that the kitchen is superb, and supported / 15910944325); 2) 751 D-Park Store: No.4, 798 ry other cut of meat found in the barnyard by one of the most extensive wine lists in Dashanzi Art District, Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798大山子艺术区751动力广 Home Plate BBQ * in this well-priced meat-eaters’ mecca. town. > Mon-Fri lunch: 11.30am-2.30pm; Mon-Sat dinner: 场 (6432 2798 / 13522120390);3) 798 Dashanzi Scruffy looks and laid-back staff belie the > Daily 6.30-10.30am, noon-2pm, 6-10pm. 79/F, 6-10.30pm (closed Sundays); Conrad Beijing, 2/F, 29 Art District Store: D09-1, No.4, 798 Dashanzi Art popularity of this entry-level brick-smoker China World Trade Center Phase 3, 1 Jianguomenwai North Dongsanhuan, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路9 District, Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang朝阳区酒仙桥路4 Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸大酒店 barbecue joint, that blossoms in the 号2层 (6584 6270)) 号 798艺术区D09-1 (5978 9067 / 13051771436); 4 79楼 (6505 2299 ext 6424) sunny months. Pulled-pork sandwiches China Central Mall Store (Hua Mao): China Central are the favorites, followed by baby-back Mall, Room L315, 81 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang朝阳 Morton’s of Chicago (American) ¥¥ * Miss K Cafe (Xing Fu Cafe) rib racks. Beer and bourbons are taken Meat so tender the knife falls through it: 区建国路81号L315 8588 7978 / 15652922791);5) care of, too. Whether it’s a rainy morning or a sunny af- Jianguomenwai DRC Store: Building 7-1-11, 1 Silk ritzy Morton’s deserves the worldwide > Daily 11am-10pm. 35 Xiaoyun Lu courtyard ternoon, relax with your favorite novel and Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区秀水街1号 建国门外外交公 praise. Expensive, but where else are you (20m north of Xiaoyun Lu intersection, first right), a cup of freshly brewed coffee. Experience 寓7-1-11 (8532 2633 / 18701092189) www.cafeflat- going to get steak this good? (Try the Chaoyang District 朝阳区霄云路35号院过霄云路 a quiet moment of serenity amid the hustle white.com, [email protected], WeChat 路口,往北走20米,到第一个路口右转(5128 5584) RMB550 set menu if you want to save cash) and bustle of Beijing. username: Cafe-Flatwhite > Mon-Sat 5:30-11pm, Sun 5-10:30pm; 2/F, Regent Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie (see online. >Daily, 8am-8.30pm; 1/F, Tower A, East Gate Plaza, Hotel, 99 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng 东城区金宝街99号 thatsmags.com for details) Dongzhimen, Dongcheng 东城区东直门东环广场A座 Element Fresh (Contemporary Western) 丽晶酒店二层 (6523 7777) 一层幸福咖啡馆 (6418 1096) Another import from Shanggers, this is NOLA Steak Exchange Restaurant+Bar (Contem- boutique salads-and-sandwich lunching, N’Orleans finds a dark-wood home in the Missa (European) with somewhat questionable price tags. porary Western) ¥¥ * Whether it is the tender, imported cuts of leafy embassy area, with a jazz soundtrack, > Daily Mon-Fri 10am-11pm, Sat-Sun 7am-11pm. shrimp and grits, gumbo, fried chicken, The bill is hopefully on the company kuai at meat or the long list of expertly made and 833, Building 8, 19 Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, Sanlitun jambalaya and decent-enough po’boys – this opulent eatery, where charcoal-grilled creative cocktails going down your gullet, Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区 cuts of 250-day, grain-fed Australian Angus you can’t really go wrong at this refined 8号楼833 (6417 1318) yes’m. Excellent Cajun snacks, craft beers and cocktail also make NOLA a popular start from around RMB428 and merrily relaxed lounge like restaurant. spiral. But the meat is unquestionably suc- > Daily 6pm-late. 32-33, 3/F, Bldg 3, Sanlitun Taikoo watering hole. MODO Urban Deli (Contemporary > Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-11pm. 11A culent, and cooked exactly to order. Li North, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里北区3号楼3 > Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10.30pm. InterContinen- 层32-33 (137 1851 7917) Western) * Xiushui Nanjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区秀水南街11号 Yates Wine Lodge this is not. Unconven- (8563 6215) tal Beijing Financial Street, 11 Jinrong Jie, Xicheng 西 Mosto (European, South American) ¥ * tional and great fun, this compact eatery 城区金融街11号北京金融街洲际酒店 (5852 5921) Tim’s Texas BBQ * A perpetually busy lunch and evening spot, was designed around an ever-changing se- Who is Tim, you ask, and what’s his Texas O’Steak thanks to chef Daniel Urdaneta’s skill for lection of fine wines. Serves up fresh tapas BBQ doing in Beijing? Providing ya’ll home- A well-cooked steak in Beijng isn’t all that modernising South American-style dishes style food and original finger foods. sick ‘Murricans with the best damn home- rare anymore, and here we have affordable like ceviche and risotto in his open kitchen. > Sun-Thu noon-10pm, Fri-Sat noon-10.30pm; 3/F, but quality cuts. Don’t be fooled by the > Sun-Thu noon-2.30pm, 6-10pm; Fri-Sat noon- Sanlitun Taikoo Li South (close to Element Fresh), 19 style briskets, ribs and steaks – slow-cooked over a mesquite wood BBQ – this side of Irish sounding name, it’s an authentic 2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太 French bistro – not a Guinness in sight. Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 (5208 古里南区3楼(近新元素) (6415 7207) the Rio Grande. Tex Mex and Margherita’s recommended. > Daily midday-midnight, Xingfu: No.55-7 Xingfucun 6030) Zhonglu, opposite of April courmet, Chaoyang 朝 > Daily 9am-midnight; Silk#2 Building, 14

72 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM LISTINGS

阳区幸福村中路55-7杰作大厦底商 绿叶子超市斜对 wildly successful Hong Kong restaurant ground beer-sausage (RMB100) is tender > CBD: EB105, B1/F, China World Mall Phase 面 8448 8250 > Central Park: No.o103 building 20, Otto e Mezzo. He’s the only Italian chef to and sweet, while the red-wine pork ten- 1, 1 Jianguomen Wai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门 Central Park, No.6 Chaowai Avenue, Chaoyang 朝 do so outside of his native land, and cer- derloin makes the trip out to their Shunyi 外大街1号国贸商城一期地下一层EB105 (6505 阳区朝外大街6号 新城国际20号楼103 6533 6599 > tainly the only to have opened a restaurant branch worth it. 0376) > Taiyanggong: Unit 10-11, 4/F, CapitaMall shunyi: No.11-102 Shine Hills, No.9 Antai Avenue, in Beijing. > Dongmen Building, 12 Dongzhimen Wai, Taiyanggong, Chaoyang 朝阳区凯德Mall太阳宫4层 Shunyi 顺义区后沙峪安泰大街9号 祥云小镇南门 11号 10/11号 (8415 0863) www.nyonyakitchen.com > Daily, 12pm-10:30pm; LG2-21 Parkview Green Chaoyang 朝阳区东直门外大街12号东门下楼 (5785 楼102 8048 5080 Fangcaodi, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大 3538) > Additional location in Shunyi (see online. 桥路9号侨福芳草地地下2层21号 (5690 7177) thatsmags.com for details) Malacca Legend Flamme (Contemporary Western) Expensive steaks are now invading Beijing. Pizza Biteapitta * Flamme (pronounced ‘Flame,’ apparently) Enjoyed by vegetarians (hummus, falafel) remains top value, however, especially on Tube Station and 58 kuai kebab-lovers alike, Biteapitta 2-4-1 Tuesdays, while bar staff maintain an Nowhere does gigantic toppen-laden pizza has the Middle-East mid-range market all eclectic (and genuinely exciting) cocktail quite like Beijing, and these guys claim to wrapped up in a fluffy pitta. menu. be the biggest in town. > Daily 11am-11pm, Second Floor, Tongli Studio, > Daily 11am-10.30pm Sun-Thur; 11am-11pm Fri- > Sanlitun 3.3 Branch: Mon-Fri 10am-10pm, Sat/Sun Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯后街同里2 Sat. S4-33, Third Floor, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, 19 10am-11pm, delivery Mon-Thu 11:30am-10:30pm, 层 (6467 2961) Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太 Fri-Sun 11:30am-11pm 3/F, 3.3 Building, No. 33 古里南区3层S4-33室 (6417 8608) > 269 Indigo Mall, Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang 三里屯北街33号3.3服装 Rumi (Middle Eastern) Jixianqiao Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤 大厦3层3008号 ( 5136 5571, delivery 8989 177) 港商场269号 (8420 0270) > Additional branches in Gongti, Beida, Beitai, Worlds away from the filth of nearby dirty Yayancun, Solana and Weigongcun, see www.on- Bar Street, Rumi dishes out plentiful help- Mexican/Tex Mex line.thatsmags.com for details) ings of traditional Persian stews and tasty kebabs. Try the juicy Chicken Shish kebab, Cantina Agave (Tex-Mex) La Pizza the tastier cousin to cheap chuan’r. Great selection of burritos, tacos and 80+ Among the upper echelons of Beijing > Daily 11.30am-12am, Gongti Beilu and Third Ring imported tequilas. Spice up dishes with the pizzerias is this Sanlitun goldfish bowl Road, Chaoyang 工体北路和三环内,兆龙饭店对面 walk-up salsa bar and don’t leave without a with a wood-fired oven and Neapolitan (8454 3838) bite of the custardy flan. manners. Further branches in Solana and Asian >Sun-Thurs 11am to midnight. Fri–Sat 11am to 2am, pasta/salad/mains-buffet restaurant in S4-32 South Block, Sanlitun Taikoo Li, 19 Sanlitun Sanlitun 3.3 Indian Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里太古里南区 > Sanlitun Branch: daily 10.30am-3pm, 6-11pm. 1/F, (6416 5212) 3.3 Mall, 33 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路 Raj 33号3.3服装大厦西北角底商(5136 5582) > Solana Taco Bar Branch: SA-48, 1/F, Bldg 3, Solana, 6 Chaoyang Tucked away in musty old building just un- Rising from the ashes of its deceased Park Road, Choayang 朝阳公园西路6号,蓝色港 derneath the drum tower, this curryhouse hutong location, the new Taco Bar is hip, 湾3号1层, SA-48 ( 5905 6106) > SOHU Shangdu may look Chinese but everything on the popular and able to produce some of the Branch: SH1112, SOHO Shangdu, 8 Dongdaqiao Lu, menu is authentic Indian, espcially the most authentic Mexican fare in town. Only Chaoyang District 朝阳区东大桥路8号SOHO尚都 rather fine naan. RMB45 for three and great cocktails to SH1112号(5900 3112) > La Pizza Buffet: 4F, Sanlitun > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-11pm, 31 Gulou Xidajie complement. 3.3 Mall, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯3.3服装大厦4层 Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼西大街31号 (6401 1675)) > Tue-Thu 5.30pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5.30pm-2.30am, Sun (5136 5990) 11am-1am; 1/F, Unit 10, Electrical Research Institute, Bhoomi Store Indian Food Shop Sanlitun Nan Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南路机电研 Spanish Bhoomi stores One stop destination 究院内10号1层 (6501 6026) where a wide range of Indian & Pakistani Agua ¥ * food products are served. 266 Yaohong Palms L.A. Kitchen and Bar * (Korean- Occupying the high end of Nali’s Spanish Lu，by Hongsong Dong Lu, Minhang invasion, Agua excels with reasonably district，(021-2428 3400) Malaysian food with a view, this spacious Mexican fusion) and airy restaurant sits on the banks of Shu- Tucked away near Gulou, this hip little priced classics like suckling pig, chorizo > Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm, Sunday 2-7pm 闵行区姚 and jamon. Winner of the 2014 Golden 虹路266号, 近红松东路 nyi’s Roma Lake, making a great spot for hutong concept is truly one of a kind in their beef rendang or green curry prawns. Beijing. Quesadillas with kimchi and bibim- Fork Editors’ Pick for best restaurant. > Daily Midday-2pm, 6pm-10pm. 4/F, Nali Patio, 81 Ganges > Daily 11am-10pm; 6 Luodong Road, Luogezhuang baps with melted cheese and hot sauce. Village, Houshayu Town, Shunyi 顺义区后沙峪镇罗 Guess what? It works. Killer range of classic Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花 Conveniently located above popular 园 (5208 6188) 各庄村罗各东路6号 (8049 8902, www.malaccaleg- Cali’ cocktails, too. Irish sports bar Paddy O’Sheas, this solid end.com) > Daily 11:30am-midnight (closed Mondays) 14 Indian curry house provides the perfect Migas ¥ * Zhangwang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街 post-match culinary accompaniment. Or Cafe Sambal (Malaysian) 张旺胡同14号 (6405 4352) The boys at Migas have turned a concept put another way: it’s what you’ll be craving bar into a thriving Mediterranean res- When it comes to Malay-style food in a after eight pints of beer. hutong, nowhere does it better. Admittedly, Italian taurant, bar and party venue, and one of > Daily 11am to 10.30pm; Dongzhimen Branch: 2nd summer’s rooftop destinations. it’s something of a niche category, but then Floor, 28 Dongzhimen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳 so is the food on offer. The spicy Kapitan- Assaggi ¥ * > Daily 10am-3pm, 5pm- late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 区东直门外大街28号2层 (6417-0900) > Additional Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园 branch in Sanlitun, see online.thatsmags.com for style chicken is pricey, but worth it. This fine Italian spot in the leafy embassy > Daily 11am-midnight. 43 Doufuchi Hutong (just 6层 (5208 6061) details. district has one of Beijing’s best terraces for east of Jiugulou Dajie), Xicheng 西城区豆腐池胡同43 summer dining. The tagliata steak is worth Niajo ¥ * 号 旧鼓楼大街往东走(6400 4875) a return visit. Indian Kitchen With homely Mediterranean influences and > Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-11:30pm. 1 Sanlitun a charming management, Niajo is prime Flor de Loto Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街1号 (8454 Sleek and chic Vietnamese restaurant – 4508) Sanlitun smart-casual dining. Order the paella (their star dish) together with some always draws a crowd. DIY fresh spring tapas and be automatically transported to rolls are a highlight. Worth the ride to Bene ¥ * Korea-town. Chef Ricci will have you singing like a sopra- Spain (minus the constant sunshine). > Daily 12.00am - 10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 > Daily 11am-10pm; 201, Europark Bldg A1(Cafe no with his pork ravioli and prize-winning Bene Building) Guangshun Nandajie, Wangjing, tiramisu. Excellent set menus (RMB588) and Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园 3层 (5208 6052) Chaoyang 朝阳区望京园610号楼悠乐汇A座 201室 extensive wine selection. (6477 7387) > Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. Sheraton German Beijing Dongcheng, 36 Northeast Third Ring Road, Greyhound Café (Modern Thai/Fusion) Dongcheng District 东城区北三环东路36号(5798 Greyhound Café originated in Bangkok of- 8995) Drei Kronen 1308 * Authentic (truly – when they say 1308 they fering Thai food with a twist and served in mean it) displays of armour and brewing a fashionable surrounds. Perfect for Taikoo Cepe ¥ Li Sanlitun then. In a city inundated with Italian offerings, kits draw regular evening crowds for the superb pork knuckle and heavy-duty helles > Daily 11am-11pm, S1-30B, Building 1, Sanlitun Cepe manages to stand out thanks to its Road 19, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号1号楼 S1-30B attention to the smallest detail – everything (pale lager), wheat and dark beer (brewed (6416 3439)> Additional branch in Shin Kong Place from the vinaigrette to the Parma ham is on-site). (see online.thatsmags.com for details) > Daily 11am-2am. 1/F, Bldg 5, China View, Gongti import quality, and the wine is superb. The go to curry house among Beijing’s > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. The Ritz- Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体东路中国红街5号楼1 Purple Haze (Thai) Carlton Financial Street, 1 Jinchengfang Dongjie, 层(6503 5555) homesick Indian community, this ever popular no-nonsense restaurant has built Given Beijing’s lack of white sand beaches Jinrong Jie, Xicheng 西城区金城坊东街1号北京金融街 and backpacker bars, Purple Haze has to Paulaner Brauhaus up a solid reputation thanks to its wide 丽思卡顿酒店大堂 (6601 6666) make do for the best Thai experience in The grand old man of Beijing brauhauses, range of quality dishes and particularly town. Has all the classics like veggie spring Paulaner delivers the Teutonic goods in the friendly service. Looking good after a Isola Bar & Grill rolls (RMB40), papaya salad (RMB46) and hands of lederhosen-clad staff from the recent rennovation and very available on Isola’s elegant design, even by Taikoo Li curries (RMB44-180) – but our pick’s the provinces. It can be pricey but is usually JinShiSong online delivery. North standards, is classic Italian panache – seafood pad Thai (RMB45). worthwhile, especially during Oktoberfest. > Daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm, 2/F 2 Sanlitun and so is the food. Beef carpaccio, burrata, > Daily 11am-11pm, 55 Xingfu Yicun, Chaoyang 朝 > Daily 11am-1am. Kempinski Hotel, 50 Liangmaqiao Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街2号2楼 Strozzapreti (handed twisted pasta) are 阳区幸福一村55号 (6413 0899) all fantastic, but just as good is a classic Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路50号凯宾斯基饭店 (6462 7255 (6465 3388 ext. 5732) Margherita pizza. South-East Asian Susu (Vietnamese) > Daily, 11:30am-10:30pm, N3-47, 3/F, Building 3, The first step is finding it. Follow that up Taikoo Li North, 11 Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang 朝阳 African/Middle Eastern 4Corners (Vietnamese, Fusion) with a dreamlike renovated courtyard, ex- 区三里屯路11号院太古里北区N3-37和 47商铺 (www. tensive wine list and a listing of top-notch gaiagroup.com.hk/isola-beijing, reservations@isola- 1001 Nights The definitive hutong bar/restaurant? Chef beijing.com; 6416 3499) There’s no missing this beast of a Middle Jun Trinh took a break from his celebrity TV Vietnamese curries, banh mi sandwiches, Eastern on the way into Sanlitun. The work to host this part-Vietnamese venue, stews, soups and la Vong fish. Mercante ¥ * whole Arabic dining package is on offer serving up steaming bowls of pho with > Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm; 10 Qianliang Hutong here, from kebabs, to shisha to belly danc- zesty, fresh rolls, as well as a great bar, with Xixiang, Dongcheng 东城区钱粮胡同西巷10号 Old World family charm in an intimate (8400 2699) hutong setting. Time (and, occasionally, ing shows between courses. frequent live indie performances. service) slows with a rustic menu from Bo- > Daily 11am-2am, 3-4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳 > Tue-Sun 11am-2am, 27 Dashibei Hutong (near Japanese logna offering an assortment of homemade 区工体北路3-4号 (6532 4050) west end of Yandai Xiejie), Xicheng 西城区大石碑胡 同27号烟袋斜街西口附近) (6401 7797) pastas and seasonal mains. Hatsune ¥ * (California Japanese) Pinotage ¥ (South African) * > Tue-Sun 6-10.30pm. 4 Fangzhuanchang Hutong, As much a California roll joint as true A seasonal blend of Dutch, English and Nyonya Kitchen (Malaysian, Nyonya) Dongcheng 东城区方砖厂胡同4号 (8402 5098) Japanese, Hatsune is now an old favorite regional African influences, this contem- This chain specializes in Nyonya style cook- among the sake-swilling, sushi-swallowing Opera Bombana ¥ porary and stylish eatery has an impressive ing – ostensibly Malaysian but with a mix set, though less so among sashimi purists. Head chef Umberto Bombana boasts three selection of fine import-quality meats, and of Chinese, South-East Asian and European > Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm 2/F, Heqiao Bldg Michelin stars to his name, earned at his wines to match. The traditional borewor influences resulting in lots of bold flavors and bright colors. C, 8A Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路甲8号

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 73 和乔大厦C座2层 (6581 3939) >Additional locations Chaowai SOHO, 6B Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, > 5-11pm, Sun-Tue, Thu; 5pm-late, Fri-Sat; closed Lounge rewards the intrepid with good art- in Sanlitun Tai Koo Li South; Kerry Centre Mall (see Chaoyang 朝阳门外大街乙6朝外SOHOD座2 Wed. 28 Xiguan Hutong (Hutong entrance is 300m work and comfortable seating, suggesting www.online.thatsmags.com for details) 层0260 (5900 1288) Additional location in north of subway line 5, Zhangzizhong Lu stop), a Kasbah, plus well-made drinks at great Wudaokou (see www.online.thatsmags.com Dongcheng District 东城区细管胡同28号 6407 9782, prices (wine from RMB100 a bottle, mix Inagiku * for details) www.cujubeijing.com drinks from RMB25). You’ll probably have This Beijing branch of one of Tokyo’s oldest to call them to find it, though. and most celebrated restaurants is as near Veggie Table (Western, Asian) * Daily Routine 日常生活 > Daily 6pm-1am. Room 101, Bldg 8, CBD Apartments, to perfection as you’re likely to find. Proving that Beijing-style vegetarian This cozy bar is a diamond in the rough. Shuanghuayuan Nanli Erqu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 Deceptively simple yet finely crafted, cuisine is by no means the exclusive Owner Travis is a cocktail aficionado, and 双花园南里二区CBD公寓8号楼101屋 (8772 1613) the handmade Inaniwa udon (RMB80) preserve of Buddhist monks and soppy the drinks at this establishment change sea- is not to be missed. Jack Johnson fans, this superbly honed sonally according to ingredient availability. Ichikura ¥ > Daily 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm; Rm 315, 3/F, eatery offers some of the very best Light cafe fare is available during the day. One of the best-known ‘secrets’ in town, Park Life, Yintai Centre, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, sandwiches – vegetarian or otherwise – > 11am-11pm. 34 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng this Japanese whisky bar tucked behind Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街2号银泰中心悦生 found anywhere in the city. District 东城区五道营胡同34号 8400 1159 a theater also offers terrific cocktails. 活3层315室 (8517 2838) > Daily 10.30am to 11.30pm (last order Although less expensive than several rivals, 10.30pm) 19 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng El Nido * you’ll want to indulge. Happy Sake (Japanese) 东城区五道营胡同19号. (6446 2073) The first hutong hang-out to patent the > Daily 7pm-2am. 2/F Chaoyang Theater, 36 When it comes to sake, owner Taka fridge-full-of-cheap-imports formula, El Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环 Yamamoto is an expert, responsible for Nido inspires a loyal following, particularly 北路36号朝阳剧场南侧 (6507 1107) around 80 percent of all high-quality BARS in summer. The roast leg of mutton place sake imported to China. His restau- next door is one of the best locally. The Irish Volunteer rant is dedicated to food meant to be TOP 40 BARS AND CLUBS > Daily 6pm-late, 59 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng Everything – from the red-faced owner to enjoyed with sake. Stylish and relaxed, District 东城区方家胡同50号(158 1038 2089) the grub – is authentically Irish: tinged high-quality and affordable - Happi About This guide represents our editors’ top 40 picks, and includes some with alcoholism, doggerel and drunken Sake hits all the right notes. Enoterra That’s Beijing advertisers. Bars rated(*) regret. A good place to down a pint and a > Mon-Sat 6pm-2am, Sun 6pm-midnight; Jia 2, Looking for an affordable glass of wine pizza before heading into town, then. Tuanjiehu Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区团结湖北路甲 have been personally reviewed by our with that date? Look no further than Nali > Daily 9pm-2am. 311 Jiangtai Lu (opposite Lido 2号(6582 8216) experts, and scored according to the Patio’s wine center. Although the food Hotel East Gate), Chaoyang District 朝阳区将台路 cuisine, experience and affordability. leaves a bit to be desired, the selections are Sake Manzo * 311号 (6438 5581) vast, and if anything, you can enjoy a nice The barmen here are serious about cheese plate with that tart glass of vino. their sake. Boasting one of the best Jane’s & Hooch ¥ * Arrow Factory > Daily 10am-2am, 4/F Sanlutun Nali Patio, 81 Acclaimed by some foreign press as one stocked drinks cabinets in town with The newest craft beer taproom on the Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那 over 60 different sakes on offer, this of the best bars in the world (cough), this block, Arrow Factory is a rustic hideaway 里花园D405室 (5208 6076) not-so-plain Jane has been at the vanguard super-cool little eatery is the perfect brimming with good Anglo-ScWEEandinavi- place to unwind after a hard day’s toil. of the South Sanlitun gentrification. It an vibes (courtesy of the brew-masters) and First Floor serves RMB60-80 measures of your favorite The sashimi is fresh to the cut, and the the brand’s distinctive Chinese brewed ales. First Floor is like that friend who’s too beer-marinated chicken is out of this Prohibiotion-era hooches in a fanstastic A winning combination popular to properly enjoy their company. speakeasy atmosphere, with attentive staff world. One of the very best and least > 38 Jianchang Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区箭 At weekends, it gets aggressively full, with appreciated restaurants in town. and unimpeachable cocktails. 厂胡同38号 （6407 6308） regulars and the passing tourist trade all > Daily 8pm-2am, Courtyard 4 Gongti Beilu, 工体北路 > Daily 6pm-midnight. 7A Tuanjiehu Beisantiao, baying at the bar. A good place to meet 4号院 ( 6503 2757) Chaoyang 朝阳区团结湖北三条甲7号(6436 1608) 8-Bit new friends, perhaps. Drinking alongside multiplayer retro gam- // Daily, 4pm-late, Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang Jing-A Taproom ** Sui Ka ing – why didn’t anyone do this sooner? District 朝阳区三里屯北小街 (6413 0587, first.floor- Is this what after-work hangouts are In just a few years, these guys developed Megadrive, Super Nintendo, N64... some beijing.com) from shady guerrilla brewers to upstanding like in Japan? We’re not sure, but we real gems make up an ever-growing col- hope so: This charming izakaya nails publicans with their own range of souvenir lection. Draft Kirin goes for a reasonable Fubar T-shirts. Their bar is a peach: a bricks-and- it when it comes to sake selection and RMB25 a glass. Slightly past its prime, this basement bar is fried delights to munch alongside it. mortar taproom, which is large, warm and > Daily, 1pm-2am, 13 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 北 trying to rediscover the speakeasy pretence sociable, and has up to 16 different beers Daily 5pm-1am, Ichibangai First Avenue 锣鼓巷13号 (159 1025 6538)) that made the place its name. Live lounge Food Court, Zaoying Nanli, Maizidian, on tap. music and a vast amount of pours are start- > Building B, 1949 The Hidden City, Courtyard 4, East 3rd Ring Road BBC (Bottle, Boot & Cigar) ing to persuade people it’s succeeding. Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院 > Chaoyang朝阳区东三环农展馆北路宾都苑东侧 The brainchild of local spirits professional > 6pm-2am Sunday to Thursday, 6pm-4am Friday 一层底商一番街内 (137 1692 7543) Douglas Williams, this bar provides the and Saturday. 8 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District, Maggie’s ¥ discerning Beijing drinker with a peerless Workers’ Stadium East Gate 朝阳区工体北路8号工人 A notorious sausage fest (we refer, of Hyoki ¥ (Japanese) selection of liquor for sale, cocktails and 体育场东门内 (6593 8227) Hidden away in the depths of the course, to the hot-dog stand outside), coming soon, shoe shines, cigars and Maggie’s has been providing its special Sofitel Hotel, this labyrinthine Japanese straight-razor shaves. Glen ¥ restaurant of all private dining rooms comforts for so long, it’s practically a time- > 1pm-late. 1 Taipingzhuang Nanli (At Xingfucun, Experiences can vary at Glen (we’ve honored Beijing brand – although it’s also a has some stunning food, and is the between Frost: Coffee, Nails & Cocktails and Commix endured poor service and drinks that are only place to sample traditional Japa- bastion of Mongolian culture. Bar), Chaoyang District 朝阳区太平庄南里1号 (1861 scandalous at the price), which is located in > Sun-Thur 8pm-4am, Fri-Sat 8pm-5am, Ritan Park nese paper hot pot in Beijing. 405 7407, www.bbcbeijing.com) a decidedly downbeat compound. But whis- South Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区日坛公园南 > 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing 100022 93 Jianguo ky lovers have been known to swear by its 门 (8562 8142) Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号索菲特万达 The Brick selections and dark, intimate atmosphere. 北京酒店6层 (6581 0072) A Cheers-style atmosphere ensures you’ll See for yourself. Mai Bar * find this neighbourhood drinking hole-in- > 6.30pm-2am. 203, 2/F, Taiyue Suites Hotel Beijing, Understated hutong hideaway with a long Sushi Yotsuba ** the brick-wall faux dive bar either cliquey 16 Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南三里屯 It doesn’t come cheap (tasting menu list of some of the best cocktails in town. or inclusive. The heavy-duty cocktails 路16号泰悦豪庭2楼203室 (6591 1191) > Daily 5pm-late, 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城 RMB1,000), but what would you expect (including the devastatingly boozy RMB80 区北锣鼓巷40号 (6406 1871) from some of the best sushi in town? Terminator) are probably needed for the Glen Classic ¥ Mao Mao Chong ** Buttery and meaty fatty tuna sashimi is bizarre Wednesday pub quiz. Tucked away in the grounds of Face hotel, The cocktails at Mao’s – such as their a cut above. > Daily 4pm-late. Unit 2-11, Bldg 2, Tianzhi Jiaozi, 31 Glen Classic is a Japanese-owned whisky > Dongcheng: Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. 10 Guangqu Lu (northeast corner of Shuangjing Qiao), bar where discerning drinkers can sink sublime ‘Mala’ Mule, a Sichuan peppercorn- Qianliang Hutong Xixiang, Dongcheng 东城区 Chaoyang District 朝阳区双井桥东北角广渠路31号院 into an arm-chair, glass in hand, and while infused vodka drink that’s a long way from 钱粮胡同西巷10号 (8400 2699) > Lido branch: 天之骄子2号楼底商2-11 (134 2616 6677) away the hours. Huge range of whiskies Moscow – are unique infusions using 2F, No.9-3, Jiangtai Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区将台 local ingredients and know-how. Grungey 西路9-3号2层 (8420 0998) and rums are personally selected by expert Capital Spirits owner Daiki Kanetaka – let him recommend without being grimey, Mao’s eschews flash A team of non-China natives doing a baijiu you something special. while still keeping it real. And those pizzas. Korean > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng bar? Brave and, luckily, brilliant. Lovely > Mon-Sat, 7pm-2am, reservation required, District 东城区交道口南大街板厂胡同12号 (6405 5718, hutong setting, friendly owners and great minimum spend RMB200, Face Hotel Courtyard, 26 Ai Jiang Shan www.maomaochongbeijing.com) This upscale seafood restaurant proves bottle collection. Dongcaoyuan, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体南路东草 > Tue-Sun 8pm-late; 3 Da Ju Hutong, Dongcheng 东 园26号 (6551 6788) that chargrill and composure can go 城区大菊胡同3号 (010 6409 3319; www.capitalspirits. Mesh ¥ together. Their RMB58 bibimbap lunch com) Great Leap Brewing 大跃啤酒 ¥ * Whether it’s an early evening cocktail or a is an absolute bargain. late-night infusion, Mesh’s moody interior > Daily 11am-10pm, Sat and Sun until The bar that began the whole Beijing mi- China Bar ¥¥ crobrewing frenzy (yes, frenzy) specializes and underground soundtrack draws the 9.30pm. 5/F, LG Twin Towers (East Tower), bright young things (and on LGBT Thurs- 12 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳 Top views from the 65th floor and flash in idiosyncratic, local-style brews (RMB25- 区建国门外大街乙12号双子座大厦东塔5层 drinks are the attractions on offer at this 40) with intriguing flavors – their Sichuan days, quite a few old things, too). > Daily 5pm-1am. Building 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu, (51096036/6037) see online.thatsmags.com for hip hotel bar. peppercorn ale was memorably good. Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼 (6417 other locations > Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. 65/F, Park Reservations used to be recommended Hyatt, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝 for their original hutong brewhouse, but 6688) Saveurs de Coree 阳区建国门外大街2号柏悦酒店65层 (8567 1838/40) the opening of a wildly popular new pub This upmarket Korean bistro has on Xinzhong Lu has shifted most drinkers Parlor undergone several changes in recent CICADA Ultralounge ¥ there instead. Learn a few quotes from Gatsby before years, not least its move away from The latest – and perhaps only – ultralounge > Gulou: 5pm-late, Tue-Fri, 2pm-late Sat-Sun 2-10pm, heading to this 20s Shanghai-style speak- the hipper-than-thou confines of in Beijing is fast becoming one of Sanlitun’s 6 DouJiao Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区豆角 easy and you’ll fit right in. Nanluoguxiang. Fortunately, the menu trendiest bars. A Shanghai style lounge 胡同6号 (5717 1399) >Sanlitun: Daily 11:30am-2pm; > Daily 6pm-2am, 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区 remains largely intact. The Shin Ramyun bar with mixology credentials, the Whisky Sun-Thu 5pm-midnight, Fri /Sat 5pm-1am, B12 新东路幸福二村39-8 (8444 4135) is among the best in Beijing, while the Sours and Smoky Havana’s are worth the Xinzhong Street 新中街乙12号 ( 6416-6887, www. Wagyu barbecued beef is almost too cost. greatleapbrewing.com) Revolution * good to be true. > Mon-Sat, 6pm-late, 11 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang Sanlitun doesnt really do hipster bars but District 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯太古里北区N4-33 > Daily noon-11pm. 128-1 Xiang’er Hutong, Heaven Supermarket if it did, this cramped ode to Maomorabilia (6418 9898) Dongcheng 东城区香饵胡同128-1号(5741 5753) A purgatory of bottles, bongs and bedrag- would be it. The East may be red but their gled English teachers, Heaven sells the cocktails (RMB45) are fit for a Chairman. Vegetarian Cu Ju cheapest alcoholic takeaways in town. You > Daily, 12pm-late, west of Yashow, Gongti Bei Lu, 朝 Moroccan-inspired bistro, cocktail destina- can also hang around and appreciate the 阳区工体北路雅秀市场西侧 (6415 8776) Tianchu Maoxiang (Asian) tion and sports fan’s manna all rolled into afterlife (clientele) if you want. Caveat: the Like many arrivals to Beijing, this place one, Renaissance man Badr Benjelloun’s food is straight from Hell’s own kitchen. Salud 老伍 * started out in Wudaokou and it’s hutong gem is constantly evolving. Offering > Daily 12pm-4am. 12 Xindong Lu (next to The A Nanluoguxiang institution, with every- since made a successful migration to North African food with an international James Joyce), Chaoyang District 朝阳区新东路16号 thing from cheap beer to (loud) live music Chaoyang. Great range of veggie fare, cocktails, Beijing’s widest selection of rums (6415 6513) and low beams. The rum infusions are a reasonably priced and they offer cook- and sports broadcasts from basketball to particular favorite on cold nights. Latest ing classes as well. cricket, Cu Ju is truly one of the city’s best Hidden Lounge * branch in WDK a welcome addition to sur- > Daily 10am-10pm 19 Rm 0260, 2/F, Bldg D, all-around bar-restaurants. Although frustrating to find, Hidden rouding student dives.

74 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM LISTINGS

> NLGX: Mon-Fri 3pm-late, Sat-Sun noon-late. 66 drinks menu, with plenty of cheap pastis > Thurs-Sat 9pm-6.30am. 100m north of Worker’s Black Golden Tanning Studio 古铜日晒 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District 东城区南锣鼓巷 and shooters, but you’ll probably stick to Stadium West Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体 中心 66号 (6402 5086) the RMB15 draught. 育场西门向北100米 (139 119 77989) > Wudaokou: 2/F, Qijixin Building, Zhanchunyuan > Daily, 7pm-late. Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, MIX Xilu 展春园西路奇蓟鑫大厦南侧2层 Dongcheng District 坛东城区鼓楼东大街206号B楼 202 (131 6107 0713) A bit like a trip to the Forbidden City, Mix The Tree is one of those places in Beijing you have School Bar 学校酒吧 * to experience before you leave. Not much A cozy stalwart of the Beijing bar scene, Crap drinks and regular, unscheduled you’ll find wood-fired comfort pizza, beer is forbidden in this underground hip-hop fights: no wonder the cool kids adore this disco palace and if you don’t leave with aplenty and a hearty, mature atmosphere. alternative livehouse/ DJ bar, founded by Has two neighborhood offshoots: By the hook-up in tow then you’re doing some- Beijing and Shanghai rock n’ rollers. thing very wrong. Tree (brickwork, pool, old man’s pub) and > Daily 8pm-late. 53 Wudaoying Hutong, Chaoyang > Daily 8pm-6am, Inside Worker’s Stadium North District 朝阳区五道营胡同53号 (6402 8881, 6406 Nearby the Tree (live music, two floors). Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 > Daily noon-2am. 100m west of Sanlitun Bar Street, 9947) 6506 9888, 6530 2889, 150 1138 2219, mixclub@ Youyi Youth Hostel, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里 sohu.com 屯酒吧街往西100米友谊旅馆后面三里屯医院东面 Yugong Yishan 愚公移山 * (6415 1954) We’ve lost more body weight than we’d Vics care to remember in YY’s mosh pit. Fortu- Separated at birth from its identical twin Trouble Bar nately, almost all the acts – usually hip-hop Beijing’s leading venue for imported craft brother, Mix, this is the definition of Gongti DJs, emo rocks and obscure indie outfits sweatbox meat-market chic at its very beers. Stocks a large draft selection and from across the globe – were worth it. The an even larger selection of bottles. Also finest. The Chinese love it – as do moody upstairs bar area is a refuge from the sweat Russians and jailbait students – helping Vics does a nice line in creative cocktails, if glands below. brews aren’t your thing. Conveniently to become one of the most infamous clubs > Daily 7pm-late. 3-2 Zhangzizhong Lu (100m west in the capital. located next to Gung-Ho, hosts a full-sized of Zhangzizhong Lu subway station), Dongcheng > Daily 8:30pm late, Inside Worker’s Stadium North District 东城区张自忠路3-2号(6404 2711 foos-ball table, darts, and plenty of TV’s to ） Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 (5293 accommodate any event, meetings, and 0333) gatherings. Sports Bars > 2-101, China View Building, 2B Gongti Donglu, Hotel Bars Chaoyang District (Next To Gung-Ho) 朝阳区工人体育 The Den 场东路乙2号中国红街2-101叫板比萨隔壁 (8590 0390, At the opposite end of the 24-hour drink- Atmosphere ¥¥ [email protected], www.trouble.bar) ing spectrum from Centro, The Den is a Beijing’s highest bar, on the 80th floor of Slow Boat Brewery Taproom ** seedy sports joint that starts off sedate and the 1,082-ft China World Tower, offers 300+ This popular microbrewery has its own grows steadily sadder as night turns to day. swanky cocktails from RMB65 with 360-de- pub hidden away in Dongcheng’s hutongs. It can get rough and ready come dawn. gree views of the 700AQI PM2.5. Quality ales that change depending on Solid (cheap) menu, good location and > Mon-Fri noon-2am, Sat and Sun noon-4am. 80/F, the season, heated floors and a great little those opening times earn it a place. China World Summit Wing, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, kitchen round out the deal. > Open 24 hours. 4 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街1号北京国贸大 朝阳区工体东路 号城市宾馆正门旁边 > Mon Closed, Tues-Wed: 5pm-midnight, Thu 5pm- District 4 酒店80 (6505 2299 ext. 6433) 1am, Fri 5pm-late, Sat 2pm-late, Sun 2-10pm; 56 Dongsi Batiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四八条56号 The Local * Centro ¥ (6538 5537) Formerly Brussels, this beery bar has come Although it’s no longer quite the go-to Beijing is hardly the best place to pick up into its own, with large (yet strangely place for beautiful people it once was, Cen- a natural tan. When it finally reaches the unobtrusive) screenings of sports and tro still draws a cute crowd with its nightly warm summer, the sun’s rays struggle 10 Best Livehouses political events, a pub quiz, quality fare and jazz performaces, spacious and recently to penetrate the smog. Thankfully, Black a nice selection of draughts and cocktails. renovated lounge areas and classic drinks Golden Tanning Studio is on hand to give Dusk Dawn Club (DDC) 黄昏黎明俱乐部 Try the Bourbon Street Ice Tea – you won’t like the blue-cheese martini. you that golden glow with its quick, safe Great little livehouse near Meishuguan need another. > Open 24 hours. 1/F, Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, and effective technology. With a member- with a focus on jazz, folk and indie rock. > Daily 11-2am. 4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工 Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路1号北京嘉里大饭店 ship card, enjoy a 50-minute session for Craft beer and whisky means you won’t get 体北路4号院 (6591 9525) 1层 (6561 8833) RMB400 and come away with natural, bored of the drinks list quickly. healthy-looking color. > Tue-Sun 1pm-2am; 14 Shanlao Hutong, Paddy O’Shea’s * Xian ¥ > Sanlitun: 11am-9pm, 2/f, Bldg 3, Sanlitun SOHO, Dongcheng 东城区美术馆后街山老胡同14号 (6407 An entire Irish-themed pub, which could This enlongated bar space makes a nice Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang朝阳区工体北路三里屯Soho3 8969) easily been trasnsported, untouched, from spot for refreshment after a day spent 号楼2层217 (5785 3711, [email protected]); > a back alley in Limerick and gently depos- shopping at neighboring Indigo. Wangjing: 11am-9pm, Rm T5, 3/F, BOTAI International Hot Cat Club 热力猫 ited in central Beijing. With plenty going > Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am, 1/F, EAST Building, 36 Guangshun Bei Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳 A true stalwart of the Beijing scene, Hot on, including pub quiz and sports. Beijing, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥22 区望京广顺北大街36号博泰国际商业广场3层T—5 Cat is the type of hard-working venue that > Dongzhimen: Daily 10am-late, 28 Dongzhimenwai 号北京东隅酒店一层 (8414 9810, www.xian-bar.com) (84722855) helps cement a city’s music scene. From Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东直门外大街28号 Afro Funk to Math Rock to painful open-mic (6592 6290) > Sanlitun: 2/F, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Beijing Hikers nights, this everyman’s club breeds good Back Street 三里屯北路43号同里二层 (6415 0299) BEAUTY & FITNESS Want to experience the wild, unrestored vibes. Decent drinks, lots of loungy seats Great Wall, away from the tourist masses? V Sports and plenty of space. Brad Clinic Or do you just want to get out of the city Spacious, comfortable, huge screens and > Daily 10am-late, 46 Fangjia Hutong (just south of Welcome to Brad Clinic, Beijing’s unique for some exercise? Beijing Hikers offers Guozijian Jie), Dongcheng District 东城区方家胡同 no rowdy drunken cretins, V Sports makes skincare and anti-aging center. Our hikes in the countryside of Beijing every 46号(6400 7868). a claim for the champion of Beijing sports professional and personalized treatments week all year round. Hikes for all fitness lev- bars. rejuvenate the skin safely, naturally and els! Regular hikes are priced from RMB380, Jianghu 江湖酒吧 > Daily 5:30pm-6am, Gongti North Gate East side, most effectively while restoring your skin’s with discounts for members. Cost includes Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北门内东侧 (5293 0333) This former Qing Dynasty courtyard home natural beauty and health. We offer: skin hiking guide, transportation, tickets, food is exactly where you’d take that friend from Nightclubs rejuvenation and re-firming, hair removal, and water. We’ve also got adventures all out of town to prove you’re cool. Its cozy acne and sun spots treatment, and wrinkle over China. atmosphere is also its downfall – any show The Bar at Migas * reduction. > For more information, visit www.beijinghikers.com with under 40 people and you’re stuck >Tue-Sat 9am-6pm, Room 2103, Tower E1, The A place to dance and prowl, perhaps, rather looking through the windows. Hip and Towers, Oriental Plaza, 1 East Chang’An Ave, Dong Broadwell International Tennis Academy than a drinks destination, TBAM, as no one casually familiar, the jazz and folk bookings Cheng 东城区东长安街1号东方广场东方经贸城E1办公 Located inside Chaoyang Park’s Tennis calls it, focuses on upscale local DJs to get keep things low-key enough for the get- 楼2103室 (8518 2103/ 5688, [email protected]) Center, this indoor club boasts a complete the party started. Good-enough cocktails home-for-the-babysitter crowd. state-of-the-art air-supported structure for range from RM55-70 but mostly it’s about > 7 Dongmianhua Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie, Daisy’s Beauty Salon all-weather year-round indoor tennis, with Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街东棉花胡 the music, man. > Sunday to Wednesday 6pm-2am, Thursday to Friday an advanced lighting system and controlled 同7号 (6401 5269, site.douban.com/jianghujiubar, climate. Ideal for peeps looking to perfect [email protected]) 6pm-late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号 (5208-6061) their service and batting a few balls. > Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区农南路 MAO Livehouse 光芒 * Chocolate 1号朝阳公园网球中心(4006406800/ 65958885,www. From the denim-jacketed doorman to the broadwell.cn1) well-grafittied walls, Mao leans on every It’s impossible to discuss Chocolate without mentioning gold leaf, dwarves, cabaret Hollywood rock club cliché without feeling Jindafit dancers and oddly-friendly Russian women. scripted. Besides boasting the worst bar in Created by D’Jack Tchinda, Jindafit is a full- Timed right, a visit can be raucous fun, with town, Mao delivers with great sound and body workout that turns African dance and bottles of spirits from around RMB200, the best billings of heavy metal, punk hit- music into seamless sequences that burns cocktails under RMB50 (including the ting this side of the Drum Tower. fat, tones muscles and relax your mind. absinthe-based Flaming Armageddon) and > 111 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区 Jindafit can be joined by everyone; there 鼓楼东大街111号(6402 5080, www.maolive.com) regular floor shows. > Daily 7pm-6am. 19 Ritan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝 is not limitation to your level of fitness. 阳区日坛北路19号 (8561 3988) Thanks to the combination of inspiring The Post Mountain 后山 music, easy-to-follow choreography and Built into a man-made hill in the center of Dada * great results, Jindafit is a promise to rock the MOMA Complex, this new addition to the fitness world. Beijing’s growing livehouse empire is The It hasn’t been on the Beijing scene for too long, but already Dada is the hippest Since 2001, Daisy’s beauty salon has > Contact: [email protected]; T: 188-0132-1096; Hobbit meets Manhattan. With as much catered to thousands of Beijing expats and facebook.com/jindafit; Instragram: @jindafit vibe as a sterile modern-art gallery. Its hangout in town. Their cosy Gulou confines under rock house Temple offer an intimate locals and is renowned for its premium imported sound system and ramped floor JM Cosmetic Plastic Surgery Clinic place to nod along to an eclectic range of waxing services and imported wax that makes for decent sound and sightlines. A top cosmetic & plastic surgery clinic with all things electro from the best names on smells like hot chocolate. If waxing isn’t > Bldg T8, MOMA, 1 Xiangheyuan Lu, over 18 years of experience in Beijing. the underground scene. your thing, the salon also specializes in an Dongzhimenwai, Dongcheng District (next to array of other treatments including IPL They provide a full range of surgical and MOMA Cinemateque) 东城区东直门外香河园路1号 > Daily, 9pm-late, Rm 101, Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B Facial Rejuvenation and lifting, a 90-minute non-surgical cosmetic procedures. Their 当代MOMA园区T8楼北百老汇电影中心北侧 (8400 standard for service is focused on maintain- 4774) 栋101室 (183 1108 0818) treatment that uses a laser to stimulate collagen production and soften lines. The ing the best technologies in the field of Temple 坛 * Lantern * salon’s slimming treatment is also proving cosmetic surgery and achieving beautiful Probably the manliest venue in town, this Founded by now-defunct Acupuncture popular and effective. results safely. Records, Lantern is a beacon of light in the > Daily, 10am-8.30pm, Rm301, Building > Building C-D, Dawang Building, 12 Xi Dawang Lu, dimly lit and unventilated space is owned Chaoyang 朝阳区西大望路12号大望写字楼C-D座 (400 by rockers (Gao Xu, Gao Jian and Clement strip of truly ghastly nightclubs and bars B,Sunshine100 International Apartment, Guanghua Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华东路2号阳光100国际 0989 809, 138 1088 7442, www.jingmeihui.cn) Burger) and known for late sets of hard known as ‘Gongti.’ Serious about its music, it also makes good drinks and attracts 公寓B座301室 (5100 0556 / 0557, www.daisysbeau- rock, punk and ska, with weekend gigs Alona Pilates Studio international electronica DJs. tysalon.com) and DJ sets every fortnight. It offers a long Pairing up traditional Pilates with an in-

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It also provides a > www.heyrobics.com, [email protected] Chaoyang District朝阳区日坛路6号 (400 001 0202, > Shunyi, K-01, Building No.19, Harmony Business www.taipan.com.cn) personalized experience for all its students, Yihe 42° Hot Yoga Centre, Liyuan Street, Tianzhu Town 天竺镇丽苑街荣 regardless of fitness, strength and 和商业中心19号楼K-01 (6456-2599; harmonypeds@ flexibility levels. ncich.com.cn, www.ncich.com.cn) > Daily, 7.30, late. 5/F at Heavenly Spa by Westin, 1 DENTAL Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District Beijing Passion International Medical Arrail Dental Center 朝阳区新源南路1号威斯汀酒店五层 ( 139 1029 0260, Affiliated with the University of Pennsyl- www.alonapilates.com) This full-service international clinic vania, Arrail Dental has access to top-class provides 24-hr general medical care and a equipment. Its well-trained staff, multiple Luxura Tanning Center patient-centered attitude. Beijing Passion locations across town and excellent facili- International Medical Center is equipped This tanning salon has some of the city’s ties make it one of the best dental provid- best state-of-the-art tanning beds, all with the latest in medical technology and ers in Beijing. English-speaking staff. Dental is designed to support the comfort, safety imported from Europe. For the sexiest tan services including examinations, whitening, possible, get custom-made tanning tips and privacy of patients. root-canal treatment, orthodontics and > 24hours, B1/F, Borui Building, 26 Dongsanhuan from the well-trained staff. implants. > Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) Rm 307, Bldg 4, Jianwai Soho Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环北路26号博瑞大 > 1) Rm 201, the Exchange-Beijing, 118B Jianguo Lu, 厦B1层 6517 7667, www.passion-medical.com 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District朝阳 Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路乙118号国贸桥东南 区东三环中路建外SOHO西区4楼307室(5900 0427, 角京汇大厦201室 (6567 5670); 2) Rm 208, Tower A, Beijing United Family Hospital and Clin- www.luxura.net) 2) 5005, 5/F, 3.3 Sanlitun, Chaoyang CITIC Building, 19 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District朝阳区三里屯3.3大厦5层5005号 (5136 5186, District朝阳区建国门外大街19号国际大厦A座208室 ics 北京和睦家医院 > Wi-fi internet. Lido, Emergency Room is open www.luxura.net) (6500 6473); 3) Rm 308, Tower A, Raycom Info Tech 24/7/365, Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5pm.> 2 Jiangtai Road, Park 2 Kexueyuan Nanlu, Haidian District海淀区中关 Chaoyang District, 朝阳区将台路2号. Tel: (10) 5927 Lily Nails 3 locations in Beijing: the best Yoga for Be- 村科学院南路2号融科资讯中心A座308室 (8286 1956); 7000 / 5927 7120(Emergency Hotline). United A long-time favorite among locals and ginners! No previous experience necessary 4) Rm 101, Bldg 16, China Central Place, 89 Jianguo Family CBD Clinic和睦家朝外诊所, Mon-Sat, 9:30am- expats alike, Lily Nails is much more than a - and if your body is a bit stiff – that’s okay! Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路89号华贸中心公 6:30pm.> Suite 3017, Building AB, Vantone Center, 6 nail spa; they have a variety of pampering Yihe knows it can be a little intimidating to 寓16号楼101室 (8588 8550/60/70); 5) 1/F, Somerset Chaowai Street, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区朝阳门外 treatments and waxing services too. begin your journey into Yoga, so they are Fortune Garden, 46 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 大街6号万通中心AB座2层3017室. Tel: (10) 5907 1266. > Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) 2 Ginza Mall, 48 available to answer any questions you may District朝阳区亮马桥路46号燕莎东侧盛捷福景苑1层 Jianguomen Health and Wellness Center和睦家建国 Dongzhimenwai Dajie (southeast of Dongzhimen (8440 1926) have. It’s a great workout for the body and 门保健中心, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sun 8:30am-5pm>21 Bridge), Dongcheng District东城区东直门外大街48号 calming for the mind. Call them today on Jianguomen Dajie, B1, The St. Regis Residence, St. 东方银座2楼(东直门桥东南侧) (8447 7178); 2) Shop United Family Shunyi Dental Clinic (5905 6067, 8405 9996, 8599 7395) Regis Hotel朝阳区建国门外大街21号北京国际俱乐部 2049, 2/F, 3.3 Shopping Center, 33 Sanlitun Beijie, > Daily, 10am-8pm. 1) 3/F, No. 2 South Building, Blue The Beijing United Family Dental Clinic in 饭店. Tel: (10) 8532 1221 / 8532 1678 (Immigration Chaoyang District朝阳区三里屯北街33号3.3大厦2层 Castle, Dawang Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区大望路 Shunyi is a satellite of the main hospital Clinic ). Shunyi Clinic和睦家顺义诊所Wi-fi internet, 2049号 ( 5136 5829, 136 8148 3308) 蓝堡国际中心南写字楼2座3层 (8599 7395/96, www. in Lido (which has its own dental clinic Mon-Fri, 9:30am-5:30pm, Sat and Sun, 9:30am- yh42.com); 2) 3/F, Bldg. 14, Solana, No. 6 Chaoyang onsite). A comprehensive range of services 4:30pm.> Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 806, Tian Zhu Real ZELL BeauCare Clinic 泽尔丽格医疗美容 Gongyuan Xilu Chaoyang District朝阳区朝阳公园 are at hand, including restorative dentistry Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District, 顺义区天 西路6号,蓝色港湾14号,三层 (5905 6067/77, www. and cosmetic dentistry. Call ahead for all 竺开发区荣祥广场806号,Tel: (10) 8046 5432. Shunyi yh42.com) ; 3) 3/FA Shimao Plaza 13 Gongti Beilu appointments. Dental Clinic顺义牙科诊所, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sat, 朝阳工体北路新中西里 号巨 Chaoyang District 13 > 818 Pinnacle Plaza, Tianzhu Real Estate 9:30am-7:30pm> Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 818, Tian Zhu 石大厦 3FA [email protected] or cyclechina@ Development Zone, Shunyi District北京和睦家医院牙 Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District顺义 hotmail.com) 科诊所, 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场818 (8046 1102) 区天竺开发区荣祥广场818号. Tel: (10) 8046 1102. Liangma Clinic亮马诊所 Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri, Joinway Dental 8:30am-5pm>2nd Floor Grand Summit, 19 Dongfang HAIR SALONS As one of Beijing’s most reputable and East Road朝阳区东方东路19号1号楼会所27号 外交人 trusted dental practices, Joinway Dental 员公寓B区官舍16号 . Tel: (10) 5927 7005 www.ufh. Laurent Falcon com.cn, [email protected] The salon is a cut above, thanks to skills of provides the perfect combination of cutting edge technology and comfortable treat- experienced French stylist Laurent Falcon. Beijing HarMoniCare Women and Chil- ment, while maintaining the strictest sani- Guys/girls. Blow-dry, up-dos, highlights, dren’s Hospital 北京和美妇儿医院 coloring available. L’Oreal, Schwarzkopf, tary and sterilization processes. The clinic KeraSraight, Inoa. RMB165-980 women, uses imported materials of the highest RMB115-468 men. quality and its professional, US-trained staff > 209 2and floor, zoon3 China World Trade Centre offers a personalized and private service. Shopping Mall. 国贸商城区域3 二楼 209. (8535 1002, > Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm; 11D, Building D, Oriental 131 4667 9913). 43 Sanlitun Beijie Nan,Chaoyang. Kenzo Plaza (Ginza Mall), 48 Dongzhimen Wai Dajie, 三里屯北街南43号楼 (135 0137 2971) Dongcheng 东城区东直门外大街48号东方银座D座 Overseen by Fellow of the American Soci- 11D (8447 6092/93, mobile:1326 181 6708, join- ety for Dermatologic Surgery (ASDS), ZELL [email protected], www.dentalcn.com) cosmetic clinic provides state-of-art com- Catherine de France prehensive minimal invasive procedures, Awarded best expat salon in 2014, with a trained team of international and local SDM Dental 固瑞齿科 including, Botox, dermal filler, fractionated The full spectrum of dentistry. Services laser skin resurfacing, Ulthera skin tighten- stylists, colorists and beauticians, this salon welcomes all ages and budgets in include teeth cleaning, root-canal treat- ing and lifting, professional skin care ment, porcelain crowns, dental implants, treatment (acne, pigmentation, aging), and a modern and relaxed atmosphere for a wide range of hair and beauty treatments, orthodontics, cosmetic dentistry, fillings, plastic surgery (including double eyelid, pediatric dentistry, extraction, teeth-whit- rhynoplasty, among others). including manicures, pedicures & waxing. Wella, SP, INOA, TIGI. ening and veneers. Credit cards accepted. > Unit 2002, 1/F, Vantone Center, 6A Chaoyangmen > www.sdmdental.com**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. CBD/ Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳门外大街甲6号万 > EAST AVENUE BLD Ground Floor, No.10 Xindong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区新东路10号逸盛阁首层 Guomao>2/F,NB210, China World Shopping Mall, 通中心AB座一层2002 (010-59073390,18612483390, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie建外大街1号国贸商城地下2 www.zellbeauty.com) Salon: 0086 10 84425120, Mobile: 0086 13521473492 E-mail: [email protected] 层 Tel:6505-9439/31/93**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm.Olympic > Wi-Fi available. Chaoyang: 2 Xiaoguan Beili, Wechat: CDFSalon; Web: www.catherinedefrance. Area>F-0186B Sunshine Plaza, 68 Anli Lu(east of Beiyuan Lu北苑路小关北里甲2号. Tel: 6499-0000. Sport com Sunshine Plaza)亚运村安立路68号 阳光广场东侧 . [email protected], en.hmcare.net Tel: 6497-2173,6498-2173**Mon-Sun 10am-19pm. Broadwell International Tennis Academy Shunyi>LB07-08, No.99 Euro Plaza, YuXiang Road.北 Hongkong International Medical Clinic, Located inside Chaoyang Park’s Tennis SPA & MASSAGE 京顺义区天竺镇裕翔路99号欧陆广场LB07-08号.Tel: Beijing 北京港澳国际医务诊所 8046-6084**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. Sanyuanqiao>FC222, Center, this indoor club boasts a complete Dongsishitiao: 9/F, Office Tower, Hongkong Angel Hands Massage Center 21st Century Hotel, 40 Liang Maqiao Lu亮马桥40号 state-of-the-art air-supported structure for Center-Swiss Hotel, 2 Chaoyangmen Bei Dajie朝阳门 Essential Oil SPA (original price: RMB288/ 21世纪饭店2层 Tel: 6466-4814, 6461-2745**Mon- all-weather year-round indoor tennis, with 北大街2号 港澳中心瑞士酒店办公楼9层; 6553-9752, Fri 9am-8pm.Haidian>4076B, 4/F, New Yansha an advanced lighting system and controlled hr), promotional price RMB230/hr now. Let 6553-2288/2345/6/7; [email protected]; www. Mall, Yuanda Lu远大路金源燕莎购物中心Mall4层 climate. Ideal for peeps looking to perfect us release your stress and make you smile hkclinic.com their service and batting a few balls. wherever you go... Aroma Soothes Therapy 4076B Tel:8859-6912/13**Mon-Sun, 10am-7pm Guomao>Rm 5, 3/F, North Tower, China Overseas > Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区农南路 Massage, Rose Oil (RMB 280/min); Aroma Plaza, 8 Guanghua Dongli. 北京朝阳区光华东里8号中 International SOS 1号朝阳公园网球中心(4006406800/ 65958885,www. Relaxation Massage; Aroma Lomi Lomi; 海广场北楼3层05号.Tel: 5977-2488 Since 1989, International SOS has been run broadwell.cn1) Deep Relaxation Massage; Happy Hour at by globally trained medical professionals weekend, all services are 20% off. Our mas- and provides medical, security and travel Cycle China Inc. 北京非常之旅 seuses will know how to pamper you and HEALTH SERVICES advice, as well as emergency help 24/7. 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China to receive the Cambridge Award for Beilu Chaoyang District朝阳区酒仙桥北路9号C1栋 > 50 Dongsi Shisitiao, Dongcheng 东城区东 Excellence in Education from the University (400 876 2747, 5985-0333, www.oasishealth.cn) 四十四条50号 Tel: 131 2025 0341/ 8401 3974; of Cambridge International Examinations. e-mail: [email protected] > Honglingjin Park, 5 Houbalizhuang, Chaoyang www.lamaisonmontessoridepk.com District 朝阳区后八里庄5号红领巾公园 (8583 3731 EDUCATION www.ycis-bj.com) Beijing Mandarin School MBA & EMBA Schools Established in 1998, Beijing Mandarin Kindergartens School is the city’s top institute for teaching BBA at BFSU-SolBridge spoken and written Mandarin as a second Beanstalk International Bilingual School 北京外国语大学国际商学院 language, more than 5,000 students 青苗国际双语学校 > 19 Xisanhuan Beilu, Haidian District, 海淀区西三 from over 66 countries and more than 80 > 1) Kindergarten > 1/F, Tower B, 40 Liangmaqiao Lu, 环北路19号 (solbridge.bfsu.edu.cn, 8881 6563/8881 companies and embassies have successfully Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路40号B座一层 (6466 6763/8881 8537) learned with us each year. Also recognized 9255) 2) Primary School > Block 2, Upper East Side, 6 and recommended by BBC News as one of Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东四环北路 LEMBA the most professional Chinese language 6号阳光上东二区 (5130 7951) 3) Middle & High School The Leadership EMBA from the University school. > 38 Nan Shiliju, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南十里居38 > E-tower School(Guomao Area): Room 904-905, 号 (8456 6019) of Maryland 9/F E-tower Building E数码世界9层904-905(6508 Robert H. Smith School of Business is a 1026/1126) Guangming Hotel School (Embassy Area): House of Knowledge International Kinde unique learning experience in Beijing. The Join the friendly and professional team at Room 0709, 7/F Guangming Hotel(near U.S Embassy) garten (HOK) program offers world class executive and Frontiers, who’ve been teaching Mandarin 光明饭店7层0709室 美国大使馆附近(84418391) House of Knowledge International kindergar- leadership education from some of the best for 11 years. Email: [email protected]/ www. ten (HOK) has locations in both Shunyi and professors the world has to offer. Every beijingmandarinschool.com/ Skype ID: beijingmanda- Chaoyang. Both locations offer a Kindergar- month one of the professors from the > 3/F, Bldg 30, Dongzhongjie, Dongzhimenwai, rinschool1998 ten program for children aged 10 months to University of Maryland comes to Beijing Dongcheng 东城区东直门外东中街30号三层 6413 6 years (Pre-school). Students are treated as to instruct the class for 4 consecutive 1547, www.frontiers.com.cn, frontiers@frontiers. Canadian International School of Beijing competent learners and the school empha- days (Thurs – Sun). The program lasts 18 com.cn) 北京加拿大国际学校 sizes critical thinking and collaboration skills, months; the impact lasts a lifetime. International Schools Located in the Third Embassy Quarter of in an environment where children “Lean to Email: [email protected] downtown Beijing, the Canadian Interna- Learn”. In additional, the Shunyi location also has a elementary school starting from grade Tel: 8526 2528/29 Beijing BISS International School tional School of Beijing (CISB) opened its doors in September 2006. This world-class 1 in September 2014. Rutgers International Executive MBA 北京BISS国际学校 > 1) Quanfa Gardens Campus: North gate of Quanfa > 5/F China Life Tower, 16 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang > Building 17, Area 4, Anzhen Xili Chaoyang District facility offers an internationally recognized compound, 15 Maquanying, Chaoyang District 朝 District 朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦 (5877 朝阳区安贞西里4区17楼 (6443 3151 www.biss. Canadian & IB PYP, IB MYP and IBDP educa- 阳区马泉营15号泉发花园北门(6431 8452, www. 1706, www.rutgersinasia.com) com.cn) tion. The Canadian International School hokschools.com) 2) Victoria Gardens Campus: 15 of Beijing develops the whole child in an Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 Mandarin Schools Beijing City International School environmentally sensitive school within a 朝阳公园西路15号维多利亚花园公寓(6538 2624, www. 北京乐成国际学校 kind, caring community to become a citizen hokschools.com) Beijing Mandarin Language School Located in Beijing’s Central Business of the world. Established in 1998, Beijing Mandarin District, Beijing City International School > 38 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马 EtonKids International Kindergarten School is the city’s top institute for teaching (BCIS) lives by its motto: “Empowering 桥路38号 (6465 7788 www.cisb.com.cn) 伊顿国际幼儿园 spoken and written Mandarin as a second and Inspiring through Challenge and 1) Lido – 6436 7368 www.etonkids.com > Room C103 language. More than 5,000 students Compassion.” This non-profit, independent Harrow International School Beijing Lido Country Club, Lido Place Jichang Lu, Chaoyang from over 66 countries and more than 80 co-educational day school offers an inter- 北京哈罗英国学校 www.harrowbeijing.cn District 朝阳区蒋台路机场路丽都广场 2) 6506 4805 Harrow International School Beijing prides 3/F, Block D Global Trade Mansion Guanghua Lu, companies and embassies have successfully national curriculum under the International Baccalaureate (IB) World School system and itself on its high academic standards, a Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路世贸国际公寓D座3层 learned with us each year. 3) 8437 1006 Southwest corner of Beichen Xilu and is authorized to teach all three IB programs close-knit school community, a rich extra- > Guangming Hotel School: Room 0709, 7/F curricular activity program and the quality Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区北辰西路与科荟路交 Guangming Hotel (near the U.S Embassy) 朝阳区 (Primary Years, Middle Years, and Diploma of its pastoral care provision. Leadership 汇处西南角 4) 8480 5538 Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District, 光明饭店7层0709 (8441 8391; info@beijingmanda- Programme). skills are promoted school-wide, with a Beijing 朝阳区科荟路大屯里社区 5) 6533 6995 Bldg 19, rinschool.com; www.beijingmandarinschool.com; > 77 Baiziwan Nan’er Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 range of enrichment activities to help Central Park, 6 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang District 朝 Skype: beijingmandarinschool1998) 百子湾南二路77号 (8771 7171 www.bcis.cn) students develop teamwork and creative 阳区朝外大街6号新城国际19号楼 6) 6539 8967 Palm thinking skills, as well as independence and Springs International Apartments 8 Chaoyang Park Beijing Juncheng Language School The International Montessori School of responsibility. Students graduating from Nanlu Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园南路8号棕榈 北京君诚语言学校 Beijing 北京蒙台梭利国际学校 Harrow Beijing have won places at a range 泉国际公寓 7) 6749 5008 Bldg 21, Guangqu Jiayuan, > 1) Room 208, 1 Panjiapo Hutong, Founded in 1990, MSB is Beijing’s first fully of universities across the world including Guangqumen- wai, Dongcheng District 东城区广渠门 Chaoyangmenwai, Dongcheng District 东城区朝阳 registered international Montessori school. Princeton, Yale, Oxford and Cambridge. 外广渠家园21号楼 8) 8478 0578 Baoxing International 门外潘家坡胡同1号东城区职工大学208办室 (6525 The school also boasts an unsurpassed dual > Address: 287, Hegezhuang, Cuigezhuang County, Phase 2, Wangjing Chaoyang District 朝阳区望京宝星 9932/6526 7539) 2) Gucheng Village, 15 Huosha Lu, Mandarin/English program geared towards Chaoyang District 园国际社区2期 9) 8047 2983 Block 1, Arcadia Villas, Houshayu Town, Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙 Houshayu Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪罗马环岛北侧天 路古城段15号 (8049 0307) helping students achieve fluency in either 朝阳区崔各庄乡何各庄村 287 号 Tel: +8610 language from an early age. Curriculum 北路阿凯笛亚庄园1座 10) 5870 6779 20A Xidawang Lu, 6444 8900 Ext. 6900 Fax: +8610 6445 3870 Chaoyang District 朝阳区西大望路甲20号首府社区内 Culture Yard aside, MSB boasts spacious classrooms, a Email: [email protected] Voted Best Mandarin School in Beijing for high teacher-student ratio and impres- Ivy Schools 艾毅幼儿园 2015 by That’s Beijing readers! sive staff longevity. Tuition: RMB98,000 International School of Beijing > www.ivyschools.com 1) East Lake Campus (8451 Ready to take your Chinese to the next - RMB177,000/year. 北京顺义国际学校 1380/1) C-101, East Lake Villas, 35 Dongzhimenwai level? We offer personalized Mandarin > Bldg 8, 2A, Xiangjiang Beilu, Chaoyang District > www.isb.bj.edu.cn 10 Anhua Lu, Shunyi District 顺 Main Street, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外大街35号东 classes for serious language learners of 朝阳区香江北路甲2号院8号楼 6432 8228 ext. 800, 义区安华路10号 (8149 2345) 湖别墅C座101室; 2) Ivy Bilingual School 艾毅双语幼儿 all levels. http:>www.msb.edu.cn, [email protected] 园 Ocean Express Campus: (8446 7286/7) Building E, SIBS Springboard International Blingual Ocean Express, 2 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝 Beijing World Youth Academy Why choose us? School 君城国际双语学院 阳区东三环北路2号远洋新干线E座 3) Orchid Garden 北京世青国际学校 Campus: (8439 7080) Orchid Garden, 18 Xinjin Lu, •Learn in a small group of up to 6 Springboard International Bilingual School Beijing World Youth Academy (BWYA) is an Cuige Xiang, Chaoyang 朝阳区崔各乡新锦路18号卓锦 students is a place where children, staff and parents international school for students of all na- 万代 4) Wangjing Campus: (5738 9166/1332 110 6167) •Get your Chinese level evaluated and work in partnership to enable all their tionalities ages 6 to 18, offering programs Kylin Zone, Bldg 11, Fuan Xilu, Wangjing, Chaoyang 朝 your study goals set on our detailed students to realize their full potential. They on its campuses conveniently located in 阳区望京阜安西路11号楼合生麒麟社内 7) Rm106, ware- level test are offering a stimulating and full inter- Wangjing and Lido. An IB World School house4, 653 Waima Lu, by Wangjia Matou Lu (3376 •Reach an HSK4 level in less than one national curriculum as well as an exciting since 2001, BWYA values holistic education 8308) 外马路653号4库106室, 近王家码头路 year on our flagship Intensive Program! after school program, which will include and seeks to give students ample oppor- •Learn from professional teachers with Kung Fu, calligraphy, health and fitness and 3e International 北京3e国际学校 tunity to develop as globally-aware critical master degrees in teaching Chinese to football. > 6437 3344 thinkers. A wide varity of co-curricular foreigners > 15 Gucheng Duan, Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, activities are offered to further enrich Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号 www.3eik.com, 9-1 Jiangtai Xilu Chaoyang 朝阳区将 •Study in a centrally located, cozy and student life. Graduates of BWYA have been (www.sibs.com.cn, [email protected]; 8049 2450) 台西路9-1号(四德公园旁) sunny hutong courtyard accepted at prestigious universities around •Practice on the go with Culture Yard the world. Age range: 6-18. Tuition: RMB Western Academy of Beijing Bookstores customized online tools 100,000- 140,000/year. 京西国际学校 •Discover Chinese culture on our Chi- > Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm. 18 Huajiadi Beili, Wangjing, The Western Academy of Beijing (WAB) is Page One nese Through Cinema movie nights and Chaoyang District Inside 94 Middle school 北京市 a creative and innovative IB World School The go-to shop for new releases and special other cultural activities 朝阳区望京花家地北里18号(6461 7787 ext.32, 8454 built upon a solid foundation of core requests. With sister venues in Hong Kong, •Study the most common Chinese char- 3478/0649, [email protected], www.ibwya.net) values and our mission to Connect, Inspire, Taiwan and Singapore, and two locations in acters in our Characters Building course Challenge; Make a Difference. Our students Beijing, its network allows for fresh authors Need more? The British School of Beijing 北京英国学校 exemplify these values through their aware- whilst upholding an extensive collection •Classes are focused on speaking and The British School of Beijing, established in ness of the world around them, service to of titles. understanding real Chinese that native 2003, has campuses in Shunyi (primary & others, can-do spirit and commitment to > Daily 10am-9pm. Shop 3B 201, Zone 3 China World speakers use secondary) and Sanlitun (primary). BSB of- excellence. WAB graduates are accepted Mall, No.1 Jian Guo Men Wai Avenue, Chaoyang •Serious approach to Chinese learning fers an enhanced English National Curricu- into world-class colleges and universities District 朝阳区国贸商城三期地下二层3B201 (8535 with regular homework assignments lum to 1,500 expatriate students, aged 1 to across the globe. 1055, www.pageonegroup.com) and tests 18, beginning with Early Years Foundation > 10 Lai Guang Ying Dong Lu, Chao Yang District Page One Indigo. Shop LG50, INDIGO, 18 Jiuxianqiao •We offer Chinese Media classes for Stage, Primary, Secondary, IGCSE exams in 朝阳区来广营东路10号(5986 5588) Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商业 advanced learners Year 10 and 11 and the International Bac- 中心B1楼50号(8426 0408, www.pageonegroup.com) •The school was opened by a western calaureate (IB) Diploma programme in Year Yew Chung International School educator passionate about Chinese 12 and 13. Admission & Fees: RMB102,993- 耀中国际学校 The Bookworm * learning 246,057. Contact our Admissions team to Located in downtown Honglingjin Park since This glass cube looks over Sanlitun Village, arrange a school tour. 1995, Yew Chung International School of Bei- providing a cozy atmosphere for browsing Don’t take our word for it? See what our > Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm, South Side, 9 An Hua Street, jing (YCIS Beijing) offers a truly international bibliophiles. The Western bookstore, li- students say about us on www.cultureyard. Shunyi District 顺义区安华街9号南侧(8047 3558, curriculum for children of foreign nationals brary, film house, bar, bistro-cafe and event net/reviews www.britishschool.org.cn, admissions@british- in China. The school follows the National space always has a cultured evening on its Contact us: [email protected]/ 010- school.org.cn) Curriculum for England but also integrates an shelves for both adults and kids. 84044166/Wechat: CultureYard extensive Chinese language and culture pro- > Daily 9am-2am. Building 4, Nan Sanlitun Road, La Maison Montessori de Pekin gram, allowing foreign nationals to get the Chaoyang District, Beijing 三里屯南街4号楼 (6586 The Bridge School 北京中法双语蒙氏儿童之家 9507, www.beijingbookworm.com) 北京桥汉语言学校 The first bilingual French-Chinese Montes- best out of their time in China. YCIS Beijing is one of only five schools in China accredited > (The Bridge School Head office)Room 503, 5/F, sori kindergarten in Beijing, it welcomes

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 77 CLASSIFIEDS ACCOMMODATION Gold-Standard Beijing apartment features close proximity to cultural landmarks such 11/F, North Tower, Kerry Centre, No.1 contemporary concepts designed for luxury as The Forbidden City and Tiananmen Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区光华路1号嘉里中心北楼11层 Ascott Raffles City Beijing living. Square. Each apartment is also fitted with > 12 Jintong Xilu Chaoyang District Beijing contemporary furnishings, fully equipped Located in Dongzhimen, one of the most Pacific Century Place vibrant areas, Ascott Raffles City is near the Tel: 5908 6000 kitchens, state-of-the-art appliances, home entertainment system and LCD flat screen 北京盈科中心 second embassy district, which is rich in GTC RESIDENCE BEIJING 14/F, IBM Tower, No.2A North Workers cultural heritage and is only a 15 minute televisions. One of the top residences in Beijing, GTC > Email: [email protected] Stadium Road, Chaoyang District drive to The Forbidden City. Residence is located beside the third ring 北京市朝阳区工体北路甲2号IBM大厦14层 Other nearby leisure attractions include Website: www.westin.com/beijingfinancial road with 5 minutes’ walk to subway line Tel: 6606 8866 Food Street (Gui Jie) and Sanlitun nightlife 5 , 10 minutes’ drive to Hou Hai . It is China Central Place district. also within easily reach of CBD, embassy 北京华贸中心 BUSINESS CENTER 9/F, Tower 2, China Central Place, No.79 > No.1-2 Dongzhimen South Street area, Financial Street and other urban Jianguo Road, Chaoyang District Dongcheng District commercial,shopping and recreation areas. 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GDS Code: AZ CM Reservations Telephone:400 820 1028 > E-mail: [email protected] China Life Tower 北京中国人寿大厦中心 (China toll-free) ;(86-512) 6763 1021 website: www.gtcresidence.com MY 5/F, China Life Tower, No.16 Email:[email protected] Tel:56756666 Chaoyangmenwai Street, Chaoyang District Somerset ZhongGuanCun Beijing Lanson Place CY 北京市朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大 Somerset ZhongGuanCun is a luxury Lanson Place Central Park Serviced 厦5层 Residences, located in the Central Business residence in Beijing that lets you enjoy CMY China Life – West the cultural depth and elegance of the District of Chaoyang, offers spacious apartments in two, three and four bedroom 北京中国人寿大厦-西 city while living in the fast developing K West, 5/F, China Life Tower, No.16 ZhongGuanCun area, only 15 minutes away configurations as well as penthouses overlooking a charming landscaped garden. Chaoyangmenwai Street, Chaoyang District from the 2008 Beijing Olympic Village. 北京市朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大 The interiors are contemporary and restful •Flexible office leases from 1 day to 1 year >No.15 Haidian Zhong Street, Haidian •Quick and easy to set up for 1-200 people 厦5层西区 while marble-clad bathrooms and kitchens District •Prices from RMB180 per month Tel: 5873 0088 are fully equipped. •Find more on Regus.cn IFC > Website: www.lansonplace.com •Tel: 400 120 1207 北京财源国际中心 Lusongyuan Hotel Lanson Place Central Park Residences 10/F, IFC East Tower, No.8 Jianguomenwai A traditional compound of quadrangle Tower 23, Central Park, No.6 >> BEIJING (20 LOCATIONS) << Street, Chaoyang District composing of 5 courtyards which lies in Chaoyangmenwai Avenue,Chaoyang 北京市朝阳区建国门外大街甲8号财源国际中 the "hutong" area of Beijing. The hotel District, Beijing Lei Shing Hong Plaza [New] 心东座10层 building is famous for its imperial living Tel: 8588 9588 Fax: 8588 9549 北京利星行广场 taste of the Qing Dynasty with a history of 5/F, Tower C, Lei Shing Hong Plaza, No.8 Prosper Center nearly 170 years. The original owner of this Marriott Executive Apartments Wangjing Street, Chaoyang District 北京世纪财富中心 large private house was the Grand General Ideally located in the center of Wangfujing 北京市朝阳区望京街8号利星行广场C座5层 6/F, Tower 2, Prosper Center, No.5 Guang SenggeRinchen, who lived here while he area where the prestigious business, Hua Road, Chaoyang District carried out top official duties, such as commercial, entertainment, and shopping Sun Dong An Plaza [New] 北京市朝阳区光华路5号世纪财富中心2号楼6 defense minister. center of Beijing. 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While 25 minutes away shopping and cultural sites of Beijing’s 北京亮马桥外交办公大楼 大厦15层 Wangfujing, suites range from studios to from the Beijing International Airport, the 17/F, Tower E, Liangmaqiao, Diplomatic 4-bedroom apartments (60-610sqm in size) Millennium Residences is walking distance Office Building, 3rd Embassy District, Taikang Financial Tower and are tastefully furnished with specially from nearly all Embassies. Chaoyang District 北京泰康金融大厦 selected materials. > 7 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu Chaoyang 北京市朝阳区第三使馆区亮马桥外交办公大 23/F, Taikang Financial Tower, No.38 East > 18 Jinyu Hutong, Wangfujing, Dongcheng District. 楼E座17层 Third Ring Road, Chaoyang District (100m East of Sun Dong An Plaza) 东城区 Tel: 8588 2888 北京市朝阳区东三环北路38号泰康金融大厦 王府井金鱼胡同18号 (新东安东侧100米); Kerry Centre - South Tower [New] 23层 Oakwood Residence Beijing 北京嘉里中心-南楼 24hr front desk: 6525 8855, Fax: 6525 8080, Oakwood Residence Beijing offers 406 [email protected], www. 10/F, South Tower, Kerry Centre, No.1 Zhongguancun Metropolis Tower fully equipped luxury apartments ranging Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District 北京中关村欧美汇大厦 lgapartment.com) from studios to four bedroom penthouse 北京市朝阳区光华路1号嘉里中心南楼10层 7/F, Metropolis Tower, No.2 Dongsan Street, FraserResidence CBD East Beijing and terrace apartments, all exquisitely Zhongguancun Xi Zone, Haidian District Our location on the Fringe of the CBD with furnished in elegant and stylish decor. Each Landgent Building [Coming Soon] 北京市海淀区中关村西区东三街2号欧美汇大 excellent connections to the subway line apartment is fitted with a state-of-the-art 北京乐成中心 厦7层 5/F, Block A, Landgent Center, No.20 East 1 (Sihui station), BRT Lines (Ciyunsi) and air purification and air conditioning system Middle 3rd Ring Road, Chaoyang District C public bus system mean that wherever your which ensures 99.9% pure, triple filtered air, 北京市朝阳区东三环中路20号乐成中心A座5 intern needs to be in the city, getting there so you can trust in Oakwood and breathe 层 M is relatively fuss free! easy. > No. 8 Dongzhimenwai Xiejie, Chaoyang One bedroom deluxe: RMB16,000 /month China World Tower 3 District, Beijing 100027, China Y Two bedroom Executive: RMB26,000 / 北京国贸三期 [email protected] month 15/F, China World Tower 3, No.1 Three bedroom Deluxe: RMB33,000 /month Website: www.oakwoodasia.com/resbeijing Jianguomenwai Street, Chaoyang District CM Email: sales.frbeijing@frasershospitality. Tel: 5995 2888 Fax: 5995 2999 北京市朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸中心3座 15层 MY com THE WESTIN EXECUTIVE RESIDENCES > Website: http:>beijing-east The Westin Executive Residences at The Lufthansa Centre frasershospitality.com Beijing Financial Street offer an array of CY Tel: 010-58709188 / 400-881-6988 北京燕莎中心 world-class cuisine options and Westin’s C203, Lufthansa Centre, No.50 Liangmaqiao CMY FraserSuite CBD Beijing signature amenities designed to elicit Road, Chaoyang District The ultimate luxury in apartment living, personal renewal. Just 40 minutes from the 北京市朝阳区亮马桥路50号燕莎中心C203 Fraser Suites CBD Beijing epitomizes style airport, the Westin Executive Residences K and comfort, that surpasses the service provides direct access to Beijing’s business, Kerry Centre CSO (Singapore) Beijing Business Center level of many Beijing hotels. The 357 entertainment and shopping district and 北京嘉里中心

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WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2015 | 79 Best not Dali Hangzhou live in a city then Chengdu Xi‘an

Shanghai Guangzhou Tianjin Qingdao Beijing I’m sweating just Yes thinking about it

Choose one: mountains Yes Meh British German I’m just really or lakes Can you handle spice? into craft beer

Do you prefer your Yes No Why – you like partying? concessions British or Avoiding walking Why are you drinking? German? tours

Going on walking Do you even like people? Yes Fuck peaceful Drinking tours

To get Do you want somewhere peaceful? Pick an activity through the long winter

Are you willing to drop WAAAY tons of money on a tiny SOUTH NORTH Where would you rather apartment? SOUTH sleep: an igloo or a yurt?

Tell the truth: Did you get all that money by OR NORTH SOUTH of the YANGTZE? Harbin Igloo gambling? No Yes

Yes No Start Here Hohhot Yurt WHICH CHINESE CITY Hong Haikou Macao Kong SHOULD YOU LIVE IN?

by Noelle Mateer

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